INSTRUCTION BOOK

IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all Instructions before using this appliance.

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the
electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop
into water or other liquid.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near
children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or
service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“ 0 ”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle
and knives.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine off (“ 0 ”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, threading loopers, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

1
 Do’s and Don’ts
1. Always be aware of the up-and-down movement of the needle and do not turn your attention
away from the machine while it is running.
2. When leaving the sewing machine unattended, the main switch of the machine must be
switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
3. When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers or changing lamps, the machine
must be disconnected from the power supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.
4. Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will start inadvertently, or the
control or motor may burn out.
5. The maximum permissible power for the sewing lamp bulb is 15 watts.
6. When using your sewing machine for the first time, place a piece of waste fabric under the
presser foot and run the machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil which
may have appeared.

2
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREPARATION ROLLED HEMMING, PICOT EDGING AND
Names of Parts ................................................... 4 NARROW HEMMING
Standard Accessories ........................................ 4 Machine Setting and Thread, Fabric and
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply ...... 5 Range of the Tension Dial ................................ 31
Controlling Sewing Speed ................................. 5 Thread Tension ................................................ 32
For Your Safety .................................................. 5 For Better Results ............................................ 33
How to turn the Handwheel ............................... 6
Opening and Closing the Side Cover ................ 6 DECORATIVE OVEREDGING
Opening and Closing the Looper Cover ............ 6 Thread and Fabric ............................................ 34
The Position of Thread Guide Bar ...................... 7 Machine Setting ............................................... 34
Attaching the Spool Holder Cap and Net ............. 7
Changing Needle ................................................ 8 GATHERING
Raising or Lowering the Presser Foot ................ 8
Thread and Fabric ............................................ 34
Removing the Presser Foot................................ 9
Machine Setting ............................................... 34
Attaching the Presser Foot ................................ 9
Adjustment of Foot Pressure ............................. 9
PIN TUCKING
Adjustment of Stitch Length ............................ 10
Thread and Fabric ............................................ 35
Adjustment of Differential Feed Ratio .............. 10
Machine Setting ............................................... 35
To Deactivate the Upper Knife ......................... 11
Sewing .............................................................. 35
To Activate the Upper Knife ............................. 11
Adjustment of Cutting Width ............................ 12
Adjustment of Needle Plate Setting Knob ....... 13 CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Threading the Machine ............................. 14~23 Replacing the Upper Knife ............................... 36
• Threading the Lower Looper .................... 15 Cleaning Upper Knife Area ............................... 36
• Threading the Upper Looper .................... 18 Replacing the Light Bulb .................................. 37
• Threading the Needle on the Right ........... 20 Cleaning the Feed Dog .................................... 37
• Threading the Needle on the Left ............. 22 Oiling the Machine ........................................... 38
Carrying the Machine ....................................... 38
TEST STITCHING Troubleshooting ............................................... 39

Starting Sewing ................................................ 24

Finishing Sewing .............................................. 24 OPTIONAL PARTS ........................................ 40
Sewing Continuously ....................................... 24
How to use Guide Lines ................................... 24
Securing Ends .................................................. 25
Thread Tension (4 threads) .............................. 26
Threading the Machine (3 threads) .................. 28
Thread Tension (3 threads) .............................. 29
Thread and Needle Chart ................................. 30

3
 PREPARATION
Names of Parts
15 16
1 Left needle thread tension dial
2 2 Right needle thread tension dial
17 3 Upper looper thread tension dial
14
4 Lower looper thread tension dial
1 13
5 Side cover
12
5 6 Looper cover

11 7 Handwheel
8 Power switch
10 9 Machine socket
10 Differential feed dial
9
11 Stitch length dial
3 8
12 Spool stand
4 6 7 13 Spool holder

18 14 Spool pin
20 15 Thread guide bar
19 16 Thread guide
21
17 Pressure adjusting screw
22 18 Presser foot
19 Needle plate setting knob
23
20 Thread cutter
24 21 Presser foot lifter
22 Needle plate
23 Upper knife release knob
25 24 Cutting width adjusting dial
27 25 Upper looper
26 Lower looper
26 27 Upper knife
28 Lower knife

28

Standard Accessories
1 Screwdrivers
2 Tweezers
3 Set of needles

1 2 3

4
 Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply
5
Before connecting the machine to the power supply,
make sure the voltage and frequency shown on the
3 4 machine conform to your electrical power.

1. Turn off the power switch, and connect the

2 2 machine plug to the machine socket.
1
2. Connect the power supply plug to your power
supply.
3. Turn on the power switch.

1 1 Power switch
2 Machine plug
3 Machine socket
4 Power supply plug
5 Power supply
6 6 Speed controller
1
3

Controlling Sewing Speed

Sewing speed can be varied by the speed controller.

The harder you press on the controller, the faster the
machine runs.
Step on the speed controller with the presser foot
lifter up, and practice controlling the speed.

1 1 Speed controller

For Your Safety:

* While in operation, always keep your eye on the
sewing area, and do not touch any moving parts
such as the thread take-up lever, loopers,
handwheel, needle or knives.
* Always disconnect the machine from the power
supply:
— when leaving the machine unattended.
— when attaching or removing parts.
— when threading or cleaning the machine.
* Do not place anything on the foot control,
otherwise the machine will start inadvertently.

5
 How to turn the Handwheel
Always turn the handwheel toward you (Counter-
clockwise).
1 Handwheel

Opening and Closing the Side Cover

1 To open:
Push the side cover to the left.

To close:
Push the side cover to the right.

1 Side cover

Opening and Closing the Looper Cover

To open: A
While pushing with the thumb to the right as far as it
will go, pull the looper cover toward you.

To close: B
B Lift the looper cover and push it against the
machine.
The looper cover snaps into its position
A automatically.
1 1 Looper cover

Note:
Always close both side cover and looper cover
when the machine is in use.

6
 The Position of Thread Guide Bar
1
1. Pull the thread guide bar up as far as it will go.
2. Turn the thread guide bar so that the thread
2 guides are right above the spool pins.

1 Thread guide bar

2 Thread guide
3 Stoppers
3 4 Spool pin
4
* Make sure to lock the thread guide of guide pole
in the correct position with the two stoppers.

1 2

Attaching the Spool Holder Cap and Net

3 (Optional)
1
1. When you use a small thread spool, pull out the
4 spool holder from the spool pin. Then place the
spool with its slit side up, and put the spool
2 holder cap on top of it.

1 Spool holder
2 Spool pin
3 Spool holder cap
4 Slit

2. If the thread slips down from the spool

during threading and/or sewing, put a net on the
spool as illustrated to prevent jamming.
* The spool holder cap and net are optional
2
accessories.

1 Net
2 Spool pin

7
 Changing Needle

Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.

1 Raise the needle to its highest position.
Then loosen the left or right needle clamp screw for the
needle you are going to remove.

1 Needle clamp screw on the left

2 2 Needle clamp screw on the right

* Use HA-1SP #14 Needle or #11.

To attach the needle on the right :

4 3 4 Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with the
flat side to the back until the top of the needle
2 touches the stopper pin, then tighten the needle
5
clamp screw on the right.
1
6 To attach the needle on the left :
Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with the
6 flat side to the back until the top of the needle
touches the edge of the needle bar, then tighten the
needle clamp screw on the left.
* When the needles are set correctly, the left
needle is higher than the right one.

* Use HA-1SP #14 Needle or #11.

1 Needle clamp
2 Needle
3 Needle stopper pin
4 Edge of needle bar
5 Needle clamp screws
6 Flat side to the back

* Do not use any needle which is bent or blunt.

Raising or Lowering the Presser Foot

By raising or lowering the presser foot lifter, the

presser foot goes up or down.
* While in operation, keep the presser foot lowered
except when threading the machine or test-
1
running without threads.

1 Presser foot
2 2 Presser foot lifter

8
 Removing the Presser Foot

1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the

2 4 3 machine.
1 2. Raise the needle and the presser foot.
3. Press the lever located on the back of the foot
holder. The presser foot will drop off.
1 Needle
2 Presser foot lifter
3 Foot holder
4 Lever

Attaching the Presser Foot

3 1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the
machine.
2
2. Place the presser foot so that the pin on the foot
lies just under the groove of the foot holder.
3. Lower the foot holder to lock the foot into place.
4. Raise the presser foot lifter to check that the
1
presser foot is secure.
2 1 Groove
2 Pin
3 Lever

Adjustment of Foot Pressure

It is not necessary to adjust the presser foot’s

4 pressure for normal sewing.
When you sew heavy or lightweight fabrics, turn the
adjusting screw:
1 mm
–– clockwise for heavyweight fabric.
3 –– counterclockwise for lightweight fabric.
* For normal sewing, set the adjusting screw so
1 that it sits 1mm below the top of the machine.
2
1 To decrease
2 To increase
3 Adjusting screw
4 Top of the machine

9
 Adjustment of Stitch Length
1 To select stitch length, turn the dial.
The larger the number, the longer the stitch.
2 The stitch length can be adjusted from 1 to 4 mm.
Position “R” is for rolled and narrow hemmings.
1 Stitch length dial
2 Setting mark

Adjustment of Differential Feed Ratio

The differential feed ratio can be altered by turning

the dial.
The number on the dial indicates the ratio between
1 the main and the sub feed motion.
1.0 indicates the neutral position.

2 1 Differential feed dial

2 Setting mark

How to adjust

• If the sewn fabric is stretched, turn the dial

counterclockwise (toward 2.2).

1
• If the sewn fabric is gathered, turn the dial
clockwise (toward 0.5).
1 Stretched
2 Gathered

10
 To Deactivate the Upper Knife

1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.

2. Open both the looper cover and side cover.
3. Turn the upper knife release knob toward you
while pushing it to the right, then guide the hole
on the upper knife to the pin to lock the upper
1 knife in the down position.
4. Close the looper cover and side cover.
2
1 Upper knife release knob
2 Stopper pin
3 Upper Knife

To Activate the Upper Knife

1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.

2. Open both the looper cover and side cover.
3. Turn the upper knife release knob away from you
while pushing it to the right, then guide the
groove on the upper knife to the pin to lock the
1 upper knife in the up position.
4. Close the looper cover and side cover.

1 Upper knife release knob

2 Stopper pin

11
 Adjustment of Cutting Width

1 When cutting width is too narrow or too wide against

seam width, adjust it as follows.
(B)
1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the
machine.
(A) 2. Open the looper cover and side cover.
3. Set the upper knife to down position
2

4. Turn the cutting width adjusting dial to get

4 desired position of lower knife.
1 Cutting width adjusting dial
2
2 Lower knife
3 Standard setting
* The cutting width of this model can be
3 adjusted approximately 3.0 to 5.0 mm from the
right needle position depending upon your
sewing needs or the fabric being used.
(The cutting width should be adjusted to get
the same results as in drawing 4 .)

When cutting width is too narrow.

2 Turn cutting width adjusting dial clockwise (A).
Lower knife will move to right.

When cutting width is too wide.

Turn the cutting width adjusting dial counterclockwise
2 (B).
Lower knife will move to left.

5. Set the upper knife to up position.

6. Close the looper cover and side cover.

12
 Adjustment of Needle Plate Setting Knob
(Changing to Standard Serging or Rolled
Hemming)
1
1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the
machine.
2. Open the looper cover and side cover.
3. Deactivate the upper knife.
4. Push the cutting width adjusting dial to the right
as far as it will go, then, move the needle plate
setting knob to the guide line of S (for Standard
2 Serging) or R (for Rolled Hemming).
Release the cutting width adjusting dial to the left
3 gently.
5. Set the upper knife to up position.
6. Close the looper cover and side cover.
5 1 Chaining finger
2 Guide line
4
3 Cutting width adjusting dial
4 Upper knife
5 Needle plate setting knob

(A) (A) Standard Serging

* The chaining finger is located beside the needle

plate as shown in diagram (A) for guiding the flat
edge of the fabric for overlock sewing.
1

(B)Rolled Hemming
(B)
* Pull the needle plate setting knob from “S” to “R”
position, so that the fabric edge will be rolled for
hemming, picot edging and narrow hemming.

13
 5 Threading the Machine
3 2
The left illustration shows the completed threading
conditions of four threads.
4 1
1 Lower looper thread
2 Upper looper thread
3 Right needle thread
6 4 Left needle thread
5 Thread guide
6 Thread guide plate
7 Threading chart

The machine is pre-threaded to make threading

easier.
Tie the end of a new thread to one of the pre-set
threads, and pull it to draw the new thread through
the machine, following the steps below.

* Turn off the power switch before threading the

machine.

1. Pull the threads from the spools and draw them

through the thread guides, then tie the thread
ends together.
2. Raise the presser foot, draw the threads until the
knots are coming out from under the back of the
presser foot.
3. However, stop drawing the needle threads when
the knots reach just before the needle eye.
7 Cut the knots and thread the needle eye.
4. Before starting sewing, clear the needle threads
from under the presser foot to make sure they are
1 not caught below the needle plate.
(Draw the needle threads in the direction A)
Then pull out the threads to the back approxi-
mately 10 cm (4˝) away from the presser foot.
Lower the presser foot, and you are now ready to
sew.

1 Thread guide
2 Needle
3 Needle thread
4 Presser foot
2 5 Needle plate

3
4 • For re-threading the machine easily, start from the
lower looper, upper looper, right needle and left
needle threads.
A
Make sure to clear the needle threads out from
5 below the needle plate and draw them to the
back and under the presser foot about 10 cm (4˝).
14
 • Threading the Lower Looper

Open the looper cover and side cover.

1
Place the spool of thread on the right side spool pin.
* The points to thread for lower looper are marked
in green.
* A convenient threading chart is placed on the
machine body inside the looper cover.

3
5
11
4
10
9
6
8 7

1. Draw the thread through the right side thread

1 guide from back to front: (A)
* If the thread is coming out from the thread guide
groove, pass the thread through the thread guide
hole again as shown: (B)
1 Thread guide

1 (A) (B)

2. Pass the thread through the holes on the right side

of the thread guide plate as illustrated.
2 Thread guide plate

2
2

3. Pass the thread through the right side of the

3 looper thread guide, sliding the thread from left to
right.
3 Looper thread guide

3
15
 4. Insert the thread between tension discs from the
right. Then pull both sides of the thread firmly to
insert it between tension discs.

5. Pass the thread through lower looper thread

guide (1).

4 Lower looper thread tension dial

5 Lower looper thread guide (1)
5
4
45

(1)
* Make sure that the thread is between the tension
discs.

(1) Thread
(2) (2) Tension discs

6. Pass the thread through lower looper thread

guide (2).
7. Pass the thread through the looper thread
take-up lever (lower).
8. Pass the thread through lower looper thread
guide (3).
9. Pass the thread through lower looper thread
9 guide (4).
6 Lower looper thread guide (2)
6
7 Looper thread take-up lever (lower)
7 8 Lower looper thread guide (3)
8
6 78 9 9 Lower looper thread guide (4)

10. Turn the handwheel toward you until the

lower looper comes to the right, and pass the
threader through the hole on lower looper thread
10 guide (5).
(2) Hook the end of the thread on the threader.
* Looper threader is optional.
(1) * If you don’t have the looper threader, turn the
handwheel towards you until the lower looper
comes to its most left position.
Thread lower looper thread guide (5) from the
(2)
left side with a pair of tweezers. Then, turn the
handwheel towards you to move the lower looper
to the right position.
10 Lower looper thread guide (5)
(1) Lower looper thread
10
(2) Looper threader
16
 11. Pull the threader to pass the thread through the
hole of lower looper thread guide (5).
Remove the thread from the threader, and draw
the thread through the hole on the lower looper
10 cm (4˝) or more with a pair of tweezers.

* For threading without the looper threader, draw

(1)
the thread from the right side of lower looper
thread guide (5) with a pair of tweezers.
11 * And draw the thread through the hole on the
lower looper 10 cm (4˝) or more with a pair of
tweezers.

11 Lower looper
(1) Looper threader
(2) Tweezers
11 (2)

NOTE: How to thread woolly nylon/polyester thread.

1
* The illustration at left shows one of the easiest
ways to pass woolly nylon/polyester thread
through the lower looper.

2 1 Lower looper
2 Ordinary thread
3 Woolly nylon/polyester thread

17
 • Threading the Upper Looper

Place a spool of thread on the spool pin second

1 from the right.
* The points to thread for upper looper are marked
in red.
* A convenient threading chart is placed on the
machine body inside the looper cover.

3
4
5
9
8

1. Draw the thread through the thread guide second

from the right from back to front: (A)

* If the thread is coming out from the thread guide

groove, pass the thread through the thread guide
hole again as shown: (B)
1 1 Thread guide

1 (A) (B)

2. Pass the thread through the holes in the second

row from the right of thread guide plate as
illustrated.
2 Thread guide plate

2
2

3. Pass the thread through the left side of looper

thread guide sliding the thread from right to left.
3 Looper thread guide

3
3
18
 4. Insert the thread between tension discs from the
right. Then pull both sides of thread.
5. Pass the thread through upper looper thread
guide (1)

4 Upper looper thread tension dial

5 Upper looper thread guide (1)

5
4

4 5

6. Pass the thread through upper looper thread

guide (2).
7. Pass the thread through the looper thread
take-up lever (upper).

6 Upper looper thread guide (2)

7 6 7 Looper thread take-up lever (upper)

6 7

8. Pass the thread through upper looper thread

guide (3).
9 9. Holding the end of the thread with a pair of
tweezers, pass it through the hole on the upper
looper. Pull 10 cm (4˝) or more of thread through
the hole.

8 Upper looper thread guide (3)

8 9 Upper looper
8 9

NOTE:
* When you thread the upper looper only, to avoid
1 2 tangled threads pull out both threads over the
needle plate and under the presser foot.
Turn the handwheel toward you until the upper
looper comes to the middle point of its travel, and
unhook the thread of the lower looper from the
upper looper.
Thread the upper looper.

1 Lower looper thread

2 Upper looper
19
 • Threading the Needle on the Right

Place the spool of thread on the spool pin second from

1 the left.
* The points to thread for needle on the right are
marked in blue.
* A convenient threading chart is placed on the
machine body inside the looper cover.
2

5 3

6 4
7
8

1. Draw the thread through the thread guide second

from the left from back to front: (A)
1
* If the thread is coming out from the thread guide
groove, pass the thread through the thread guide
hole again as shown: (B)

1 Thread guide

(A) (B)
1

2. Pass the thread through the holes in the second

row from the left of the thread guide plate as
illustrated.
2 Thread guide plate

2
2

20
 3. Insert the thread between tension discs from the
right. Then pull both sides of thread.
3 Right needle thread tension dial

4. Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the

5 needle bar to its highest position, then pass the
thread through the right needle thread guide and
the thread take-up lever cover.
4 Right needle thread guide
5 Thread take-up lever cover

4
4

5. Pass the thread through the needle thread guide

6 sliding the thread from left to right.
6. Pass it through the needle bar thread guide from
left to right.
7. Thread the right needle from front to back and
pull the thread about 10 cm (4˝) from the eye of
7 the needle to the back.
6 Needle thread guide
7 Needle bar thread guide
8 Right needle

8
5 6 7

21
 • Threading the Needle on the Left

Place the spool of thread on the left side spool pin.

1
* The points to thread for needle on the left are
marked in orange.
* A convenient threading chart is placed on the
machine body inside the looper cover.

2
4

3
5
6
7

1. Draw the thread through the thread guide on the

left from back to front: (A)
1
* If the thread is coming out from the thread guide
groove, pass the thread through the thread guide
hole again as shown: (B)

1 Thread guide

(A) (B)
1

2. Pass the thread through the holes on the left of

thread guide plate as illustrated.
2 Thread guide plate

22
 3. Insert the thread between tension discs from the
right. Then pull both sides of thread.
4. Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the
needle bar to its highest position, then pass the
thread through the thread take-up lever cover.

3 Left needIe thread tension dial

4 Thread take-up lever cover

3
4

3 4

5. Pass the thread through the needle thread guide

5 sliding the thread from right to left.
6. Pass it through the needle bar thread guide from
left to right.
6
7. Thread the left needle from front to back and pull
the thread about 10 cm (4˝) from the eye of the
needle to the back.

5 Needle thread guide

6 Needle bar thread guide
7 7 Left needle

5 6 7

– Gently pull all four thread ends towards the

back of the machine.
– Run threads under the presser foot and lower
the presser foot.
– Close side cover and looper cover.
– Turn handwheel toward you to chain off three
or four stitches.

The sewing preparation is now complete.

23
 TEST STITCHING

Starting Sewing
1. Insert the fabric under the toe of the foot.
(It is not necessary to raise the foot.)
2. Turn the handwheel gently toward you a couple
of turns and check the thread chain. Then start
sewing slowly. The fabric will be automatically fed.
Guide the fabric in the desired direction.
* For heavyweight fabric, raise the presser foot
and insert the fabric in front of the knife.
1 2 Then lower the foot and start to sew while guiding
the fabric.
Finishing Sewing

1. When stitching is completed, continue to run the

machine slowly to produce a thread chain for
about 12 cm (5´´) while pulling the thread chain
slightly to the back.

2. Cut the threads with the thread cutter as

illustrated, leaving about 5 cm (2´´) thread chain
from the end of the fabric.

1 Thread cutter
1
* The thread cutter becomes blunt as loose threads
build up. Remove the loose threads collected in
the thread cutter.

Sewing Continuously

Insert the next fabric under the toe of the foot, then
start sewing. It is not necessary to raise the presser
foot for ordinary fabric.
* For heavyweight fabric, raise the presser foot
and insert the fabric in front of the knife.
Then lower the foot and start to sew while guiding
the fabric.

How to use Guide Lines

On the top of the looper cover are guide lines

indicating the distance from the needle position.
Please use them as sewing guides.
Mark L indicates the distance from the left needle.
Mark R indicates the distance from the right needle.
The distance between center of guide line and
needle position is 5/8 inch.

24
 Securing Ends
To avoid unravelling, it is necessary to leave a
thread chain about 5 cm (2´´) long at the beginning
and at the end of a seam. To secure the beginning
and end of a seam choose one of the following
methods.
A B
At the beginning
A. Separate the end of the threads and knot them.
B. Thread the chain through a large eyed needle,
and weave the chain through the overlock
stitches on the fabric.
C. Cut the chain at the edge of the fabric. Then
apply a small amount of seam sealant (Fray
C CheckTM or Fray-No-MoreTM ) on the end of the
threads.

D. 1. Before putting your fabric in the machine, sew

a thread chain about 5 cm (2´´) long behind the
needle.
2. Put your fabric on the machine. Then serge a
few stitches and stop.
3. Raise the presser foot and bring the thread
chain to the left, around and under the presser
foot.
4. Place the thread chain between the presser
foot and upper knife, holding it in position as
you lower the presser foot to sew.
5. After sewing about 2.5 cm (1´´), move the chain
to the right and under the upper knife, cutting
the chain as you sew.

At the end of a seam

* You can use the same methods as “At the
beginning” to secure the end of a seam except
“D” or you can use the methods shown below.

1. Serge one stitch off the end of a seam.

2. Raise the needle and presser foot, and gently pull

1 2 3 the threads off the chaining finger.
3. Turn the fabric over so that the under side is up.

4. Serge about 2.5 cm (1˝) over stitching and angle

off the fabric.

25
 Thread Tension (4 threads)

Correct tension
The illustration at left shows sewing results with
correct tension settings. However, adjusting the
thread tension may be required depending upon the
1 type of fabric and thread being used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Right needle thread
4 Left needle thread
2 5 5 Upper looper thread
6 Lower looper thread
4 3 6
Thread tension adjustment
* Set all four thread tension dials at “3”.
Then sew, and check the thread tensions.
7 8
If the tension balance on the test piece is not satis-
factory, you can adjust the thread tension with the
tension balance dial.
3 2
4 7 Thread tension dial
6 5

1 0

8 Setting mark
9 8 7
9
10 9 Loosen
10 Tighten

Left needle thread tension is too loose

The illustration shows sewing results when the left
needle thread tension is too loose.
1
432 432
Remedy:
65

65
10

10

4 98 7 98 7
Tighten the left needle thread tension.
11 11 Left needle thread tension dial
432 432
2 5
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7

3 6

Right needle thread tension is too loose

The illustration shows sewing results when the right
needle thread tension is too loose.
1
432 432 Remedy:
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7

Tighten the right needle thread tension.

4 12
12 Right needle thread tension dial
432 432
65

65
10

10

5
98 7 98 7

2
3
6

26
 Looper thread tension is out of balance (1)
The illustration shows sewing results when the lower
looper thread tension is too tight and/or upper looper
1 5 thread tension is too loose.
6 Remedy:
432 432 Loosen lower looper thread tension and/or tighten

65

65
10

10
98 7 98 7
upper looper thread tension.
4
1 Wrong side of fabric
432 432 2 Right side of fabric

65

65
10

10
2
98 7 98 7
3 Right needle thread
13 14 4 Left needle thread
3
5 Upper looper thread
6 Lower looper thread
13 Upper looper thread tension dial
14 Lower looper thread tension dial

Looper thread tension is out of balance (2)

The illustration shows sewing results when the upper
looper thread tension is too tight and/or lower looper
1 thread tension is too loose.
Remedy:
Loosen upper looper thread tension and/or tighten
432 432
lower looper thread tension.
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7

13 Upper looper thread tension dial

432 432
14 Lower looper thread tension dial
2
65

65
10

10

5
98 7 98 7

4 3 13 14
6

27
 Threading the Machine (3 threads)

Using the needle on the right only

(for regular three-thread serging)
Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.
Remove the needle and the thread on the left. Then
retighten the needle clamp screw on the left to
2 prevent losing the screw.

1 Needle on the right

2 Needle clamp screw on the left
1

Using the needle on the left only

(for wide three-thread serging)
Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.
Remove the needle and the thread on the right.
Then retighten the needle clamp screw on the right
to prevent losing the screw.

1 Needle on the left

2 2 Needle clamp screw on the right

28
 Thread Tension (3 threads)

Correct tension
4 The illustration at left shows sewing results with
correct tension settings. However, adjusting the
1 5 thread tension may be required depending on the
type of fabric and thread being used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3 Right or left needle thread
2 4 Upper looper thread
5 Lower looper thread
3
Thread tension adjustment
* Set all three thread tension dials at “3”.
Then sew, and check the tension balance.
6 7 If the tension balance on the test piece is not
3 2
4 satisfactory, you can adjust the thread tension
6 5

1 0

with thread tension dial.

9
8 8 7
9 6 Thread tension dial
7 Setting mark
8 Loosen
9 Tighten

1 5 432 432
Needle thread tension is too loose
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7
The illustration shows sewing results when the
3 needle thread tension is too loose.
10 11
432 432 Remedy:
65

65
10

10

2 98 7 98 7
Tighten needle thread tension.
4 10 Left needle thread tension dial
11 Right needle thread tension dial

Looper thread tension is out of balance (1)

5 4
The illustration shows sewing results when the lower
432 432
looper thread tension is too tight and/or upper looper
1
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7 thread tension is too loose.

Remedy:
432 432
Loosen lower looper thread tension and/or tighten
2
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7 upper looper thread tension.

3 12 13 12 Upper looper thread tension dial
13 Lower looper thread tension dial

Looper thread tension is out of balance (2)

The illustration shows sewing results when the upper
looper thread tension is too tight and/or lower looper
1 432 432
thread tension is too loose.
65

65
10

10

98 7 98 7

Remedy:
Loosen upper looper thread tension and/or tighten
432 432
lower looper thread tension.
65

65
10

10

2 5 98 7 98 7

3 4 12 13 12 Upper looper thread tension dial

13 Lower looper thread tension dial
29
Thread and Needle Chart

Type of fabric Type of thread Needle Stitch length Differential

feed ratio

Lightweight Organdy, Cotton: No. 80 – 100 HA-1 SP 2.0 – 3.0 0.5 – 1.0
Georgette, Silk: No. 80 – 100 No. 11
Lawn, Crepe Synthetic: No. 80 – 100
de chine,
Lining.
Mediumweight Cotton, Cotton: No. 60 – 100 HA-1 SP 2.5 – 3.5 1.0
Linen, Satin, Silk: No. 50 – 100 No. 11 – 14
Ordinary Synthetic: No. 60 – 100
fabric.

Heavy- Tweed, Cotton: No. 50 – 60 HA-1 SP 3.0 – 4.0 1.0

weight Coating, Silk: No. 50 – 60 No. 14
Denim, Synthetic: No. 50 – 60
Doeskin,
Thick fabric.
Knits Knitte dfabric. Cotton: No. 60 – 80 HA-1 SP 2.5 – 4.0 1.0 – 2.2
Synthetic: No. 60 – 90 No. 11 – 14
Woolly nylon (For looper
thread)
Woolly polyester (For looper
thread)

* Refer to page 20 for adjusting the stitch length and differential feed ratio.
NOTE: Your overlock uses standard sewing needles (HA-1 SP, No.11, No.14).

30
 ROLLED HEMMING, PICOT EDGING AND NARROW HEMMING

Machine Setting and Thread, Fabric and Range of

the Tension Dial

The setting of tension dials may vary depending on the type

and thickness of fabric and thread being sewn.

Rolled Hemming Picot Edging Narrow Hemming

Stitch
Length
(R) (3 ~ 4) (R)

Differential
Feed Ratio
(1.0) (1.0) (1.0)

Needle Plate
Setting Knob

(R) (R) (R)

Needle Using the needle on the right: HA-1 SP No. 11

Needle
Thread Synthetic: No. 80 ~ 100

Upper and Woolly nylon, Synthetic : No. 60 ~ 100 Woolly nylon,

Lower Looper Woolly polyester Woolly polyester
Silk : No. 50 ~ 100
Threads Synthetic: No. 80 ~100 Synthetic: No. 80 ~100

Fabric Lightweight fabric such as Organdy, Crepe de chine, Lawn and Georgette

432 54 3 432 54 3 432 54 3

76

21
65

10

Standard
76

21
65

10

76

21
65

10

98 7 098 98 7 098 98 7 098

Setting of
Needle thread Needle thread Needle thread Needle thread Needle thread Needle thread
Tension tension (L) tension (R) tension (R)
tension (L) tension (L) tension (R)
Dials
432 8 76 432 8 76 43 54 3
09

76 5
65

10

21 0
54

65

10

09

54

76

21

98 7 3 21 98 7 3 21 098
98

Upper looper Lower looper Upper looper Lower looper Upper looper Lower looper
thread tension thread tension thread tension thread tension thread tension thread tension

Wrong side Wrong side Wrong side

of fabric of fabric of fabric

Lower looper Lower looper Lower looper

Correct thread thread thread
Thread
Tension Upper Upper
Upper looper
looper Right side looper Right side
Right side thread thread
of fabric of fabric thread of fabric

Needle thread Needle thread Needle thread

31
 Thread Tension

For rolled hemming and picot edging

1 Correct tension
The illustration at left shows sewing results with
correct tension settings.
Adjusting the thread tension may be required de-
5
pending on the type of fabric and thread being used.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
2 3 Right needle thread
4 Upper looper thread
5 Lower looper thread

3 4 Thread tension adjustment

1. Set the tension dial as shown on page 60.
2. Sew and check the tensions.
3. If the tension balance on the test piece is not
satisfactory, you can adjust the thread tension
1 with thread tension dial.

3 Needle thread tension is too loose

432 54 3
76

21
65

10

98 7 098
The illustration shows the sewing results when the
6 right needle thread tension is too loose.
4 Remedy:
432 8 76
5 2
09
65

10

54

98 7 3 21
Tighten the right needle thread tension.
6 Right needle thread tension dial

Upper looper thread tension is too loose

The illustration shows the sewing results when the
1 upper looper thread tension is too loose.
432 54 3 Remedy:
76

21
65

10

98 7 098
Tighten the upper looper thread tension.
7 Upper looper thread tension dial
5 2 432 8 76
09
65

10

54

98 7 3 21
4
3 7

Looper thread tension is out of balance

The illustration shows sewing results when the upper
1 looper thread tension is too tight and/or lower looper
thread tension is too loose.
5 432 54 3
76

21
65

10

98 7 098
Remedy:
Loosen upper looper thread tension and/or tighten
lower looper thread tension.
2 432 8 76
09
65

10

54

4
98 7 3 21
7 Upper looper thread tension dial
7 8 8 Lower looper thread tension dial
3

32
 For Better Results

Rolled hemming
Pull the end of thread chain to the back lightly in the
beginning and end of sewing.
2
1 Fabric
2 Thread chain
1

Picot edging
Pull the fabric lightly to the back while sewing.

1 Fabric

For narrow hemming

Correct tension
1 The illustration at left shows sewing results with
correct tension settings.
1 Wrong side of fabric
5 2 Right side of fabric
3 Right needle thread
4 Upper looper thread
2 5 Lower looper thread
3 4 * Refer to pages 58 for the adjustment.

33
 DECORATIVE OVEREDGING
* Refer to pages 24, 25, 29 for thread tension
balance adjustment.
1 * For the best results, pull the thread chain to the
back lightly at the beginning and end of sewing.
1 Overedging
Thread and Fabric
Fabric Thread
Synthetic : No. 60~80
Needle threads Silk : No. 50~80
Medium
to Buttonhole twist
Upper looper thread
Heavy Light weight wool yarn
Fabric Synthetic : No. 60~80
Lower looper thread
Silk : No. 50~80

Machine Setting

1 Needle plate setting knob

HA-1 SP No. 14

GATHERING
* Refer to pages 24, 25, 29 for thread tension
balance adjustment.
1 Gathering
1 Thread and Fabric
Fabric Thread
Light to Synthetic : No. 60~80
Needle threads
Medium Silk : No. 50~80
Woven Upper looper thread Synthetic : No. 60~80
Fabric Lower looper thread Silk : No. 50~80

Machine Setting

1 Needle plate setting knob

HA-1 SP No. 11
or 14

34
 PIN TUCKING
* Refer to page 29 (Narrow Hemming) for thread
1 tension balance adjustment.
1 Pin tucking

Thread and Fabric

Fabric Thread
Needle thread on the Synthetic : No. 60~80
Light to right Silk : No. 50~80
Medium
Upper looper thread Synthetic : No. 60~100
Fabric Lower looper thread Silk : No. 50~100

Machine Setting

1 Remove the needle on the left-hand side

2 Needle plate setting knob

1
HA-1 SP No.11 or No.14

Sewing

Remove the needle on the left-hand side.

Deactivate the upper knife.
Sew the folded edge while guiding along the guide
line.

1 Guide line
1

Open the fold flat and press the pin tucks to one
side.
* Activate the upper knife.

35
 CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Upper Knife
To remove:
1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.
4 2. Open the looper cover and side cover.
2 3. Deactivate the upper knife.
4. Remove the hexagonal bolt, and remove the
upper knife.

3 1 Upper knife
2 Hexagonal bolt
1
3 Stopper pin
4 Lower knife

To attach:
0.8 ~ 1.5 mm (3/64˝) 1. Insert new upper knife into the groove of knife
1
holder and stopper pin, then tighten the
hexagonal bolt slightly.
2. Turn the upper knife holder to cutting position.
3. Turn the handwheel toward you until the upper
4 knife comes to its lowest position.
Loosen the hexagonal bolt, and adjust the
position of the upper knife so that the edge of the
2
upper knife overlaps 0.8 to 1.5 mm (3/64´´) from
3 the edge of lower knife as illustrated.
Then tighten the hexagonal bolt firmly.
4. Close the looper cover and side cover.

Cleaning Upper Knife Area

1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.

2. Open the looper cover.
Remove the waste pieces to the front with a lint
brush or waste scraps.

* You may use a vacuum cleaner to clean the upper

knife area or feed dog.

* The lower knife will last over one year in normal

use. However, if you run over a pin or a hard
object, it may be required to replace both upper
and lower knives at the same time.

36
 Replacing the Light Bulb

1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine.

2. Loosen the face plate set screw, and remove the
face plate.

1 Face plate
2 Set screw
2

To remove:
Push and twist to the left.

To attach:
3 Push and twist to the right.
Reattach the face plate, and retighten the face plate
set screw.
3 Light bulb
5
4 To remove
4
5 To attach

Note:
* The machine is designed to use a 15 WATT
maximum light bulb.
* The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers
when you handle it.

Cleaning the Feed Dog

1. Turn off the power switch and unplug the
1 machine.
2 2. Open the looper cover and side cover.
3. Remove the needles and presser foot.
4. Remove the needle plate set screw, and remove
the needle plate.
1 Needle plate
1234 2 Needle plate set screw

5. Brush out the lint around the feed dogs to the

front by using the lint brush or use a vacuum
cleaner.
6. Reattach the needle plate, presser foot and
1 needles.
Close the looper cover and side cover.
1 Feed dog

56

37
 Oiling the Machine

Apply a few drops of fine quality sewing machine oil

to the parts indicated with arrows.

It is recommended to apply oil once a week in

normal use, once in ten hours in continuous use.

* Open the side cover and apply oil.

* Open the looper cover and apply oil.

Carrying the Machine

Put your fingers into the hole on the back side of the
machine as illustrated.

38
Troubleshooting
Condition Cause Reference
The fabric is not 1. The feed dog is packed with lint. See page 37.
being fed 2. The presser foot has been raised. Lower the presser foot.
smoothly. 3. Pressure of the foot is too weak. See page 9
The needle 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 8.
breaks. 2. The needle is bent or blunt. See page 8.
3. The fabric is forcedly pulled. Pull the fabric lightly.
The thread 1. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 14 ~ 23 and 28.
breaks. 2. The needle or looper thread tension is too tight. See pages 26 ~ 27 and 29, 32.
3. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 8.
4. The needle is bent or blunt. See page 8.
Skipped stitches 1. The needle is bent or blunt. See page 8.
2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 14 ~ 23 and 28.
3. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 8.
The seam is not 1. The needle and/or looper thread tensions are See pages 26 ~ 27 and 29, 32.
sewn neatly. not correctly adjusted.
2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 14 ~ 23 and 28.
3. The needle and/or the thread are not suitable See pages 30, 31, 34 and 35.
for the fabric being sewn.
4. The thread is not between the tension discs. See pages 10, 19, 21 and 23.
Seam 1. The needle or looper thread tension is too tight. See pages 26 ~ 27 and 29, 32.
puckering. 2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See pages 14 ~ 23 and 28.
3. The differential feed dial is not correctly See page 10.
adjusted.
The machine 1. The machine has not been plugged in firmly. See page 5.
does 2. The power switch is turned off. See page 5.
not operate.
The fabric is not 1. The position of the upper knife is not adjusted See page 36.
cut neatly. properly.
Replace the upper knife.
2. The upper knife is dull.
(See page 36.)

39
 OPTIONAL PARTS

1 6 Blind stitch foot Use to blind stitch a cuff or

1 a skirt.
Taping foot with Use for sewing tape on a
2 tape reel shoulder or armpit line to
protect from stretching or
to decorate.
Works well with the taping
foot or the cording foot.
Cording foot (1) Use to sew decorative
2 7 3 cording.
Cording foot (2) Use to sew decorative
4 cording.
Beading Use for decorating cloth,
5 attachment wide cord decoration,
cording, etc.
Gathering Use when sewing sleeves,
6 attachment cuffs, collars, etc.
8
Elastic gathering Use for elastic taping,
7 attachment decorative taping, etc.

Cloth guide Use to help you create a

constant-width seam allow-
8 ance and when doing flat-
lock and pintuck sewing.

3 9 9 Piping foot (1/8˝) Use to pipe the edge of a

sewing article to decorate
10 Piping foot (3/16˝) or strengthen.
Needle threader For easy threading and
11 changing needle.
10
Gathering foot Use to sew sleeves, yokes,
12 frills, etc.

4 11 1 200-203-104
2 200-204-208
3 200-207-108
4 200-208-109
5 200-214-108
6 200-217-101
7 200-218-102
5 12 8 200-216-100
9 200-219-103
10 200-220-107
11 200-254-605
12 200-248-101

40
792-800-244 (E)
Printed in Taiwan