75%(4)75% found this document useful (4 votes) 13K views17 pagesPractice School Project by Abhay Pratap Singh
Practice School Project Report on Cosmetics by Abhay Pratap Singh ( Goel institute of pharmacy and sciences Lucknow
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- Introduction
- History
- Need of Cosmeceuticals
- Classes of Cosmeceuticals
- Skin Care Cosmeceuticals
- Hair Cosmeceuticals
- Regulatory Scenario
- Marketed Cosmeceuticals Products
- Conclusion
A Project Report
on
Practice School
For fidfilment of Requirement for the
Degree of Bachelor of Pharmacy
{ Session 2022 -24 )
Topic - Cosmeceutical
Submitted to
Dr. APJ. Abdul Kalam Technical University, Lucknow
Goel Institute of Pharmacy and Sciences Lucknow
Under the Supervision of
Or Preet Verma
( Associate Professor)
Submitted by
Abhay Pratap Singh
Roll no - 1903920500001ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The completion of project work was possible with the kind support and help of
many individual , 1 would like to thanks to the all of them.
I thank my God for providing me with everything that I required in completing
this project .
| would like to express my gratitude towards my family and friends for the
encouragement which helped me completion of the report .
| would like to express my special gratitude to Dr. Pritt Verma ( Associate
Professor GIPS ) for their guidance and the constant supervision as well as for
the providing the necessary information and Knowledge regarding this project .
| would like to extend my sincere thanks to my parents for their kind co -
operation and encouragement which helped me in the completion of this
project.
Atlast , | would like to thanks to each and every individual who helped me and
supported me time to time .TABLE OF CONTENT
SNo. Topic Page no.
1 Introduction 1
2. History 2
3. Need of Cosmeceuticals 2
4. Classes of Cosmeceuticals 3-4
5. Skin Care Cosmeceuticals 5-9
6. Hair Cosmeceuticals 10-11
7. Regulatory Scenario 12
8. Marketed Cosmeceuticals Products 13
9. Conclusion 14INTRODUCTION
Importance of beautification to the mankind has been known since the pre historic time and the
desire to look beautiful and healthy has been developing in the society. In recent times fitness,
good health, looks, way of presenting oneself are being counted as one of qualities of
personality, now a day people are also being judged on these factors. Hence today there is a
necessity and desirable requirement to give more attention to the looks and beautification
for social acceptance as well as professional success, which is also overemphasized by the
media. On the other hand life span of an average individual has being increased and factors such
as sedentary lifestyle and dietary excesses associated with genetic determination, pregnancy and
the aging process, contribute to alterations of the face and body that result in the loss of the
individual's self-image
Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body.
Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail
polish, eye and facial makeup. Towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors,
hair sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath
salts, butters and many other types of products. A subset of cosmetics is called “make-up” which
refers mainly to colored product intended to change users appearance
Pharmaceuticals or Drugs are the substance that cure and heal having the disease-fighting or
healing properties. A drug is —intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or
prevention of disease and is —intended to affect the structure or any function of the body.
Cosmeceuticals refers to the mixture of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The term
cosmeceuticals refer to the substances that exerted both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have
medical or drug-like benefits.
A cosmeceuticals is an ingredient with medicinal properties that manifests beneficial topical
actions and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions.
Cosmeceuticals affects the biological functioning of the skin (medicinal or drug like benefits)
depending upon the ingredients present in them. Cosmeceuticals increases the collagen
growth in the skin and reduces the harmful effects of free radicals thus maintain the structure of
keratin in good condition and making the skin healthier.
Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are applied topically; they contain ingredients that influence the
skin’s biological function. Cosmeceuticals are meant to improve appearance by delivering
nutrients necessary for healthy skin. Cosmeceuticals usually claim to reduce wrinkles and to
improve tone, texture and radiance of the skin .HISTORY
‘The health ~ giving property of cosmetics was first identified by the Egyptians . The cosmetics
were first used by Egyptians in 4000 B.C whose records are being available Up to the beginning
of 19" century , there was no clear separation between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals , the
separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed . In 1980's
there was a rapid expansion of the cosmeceuticals due to hydroxy acids ( natural fruit acids ) used
as exfoliants against wrinkles , In 1961 the term cosmeceuticals was coined by the Raymond Reed
, founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists . Albert Kligman in 1971
developed a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin , using retinoic
acid thereby reactivated interest of the people in cosmeceuticals . World - renowned
dermatologist Dr. kligman made a long — lasting contribution to the world of skincare by
discovering that topical retinoic acid ( or tretinoin ) can be used for both an acne and wrinkle
treatment , Kligman may be described as the father . of cosmeceuticals , a term he popularized
but cosmeceuticals first appeared in the world market in 1996 119 The several cosmetic jars have
been unearthed by the Archaeologists whose hieroglyphics say " good for sight “ and “ stops
bleeding“ . A medical papyrus “ Ebers, “ which was written in 1600 BC, makes frequent reference
toa number of cosmeceuticals - type products . The favorite was the one prepared using honey
and milk that claimed to help cure skin diseases , while different product mentioned in the Ebers
_ claiming to “ expel wrinkles from the face “, were made from frankincense , balantine oil , rush
oil and wax in equal proportions .
NEED OF COSMECEUTICALS
Now a day it’s not just the interest of people but certainly has become the need of
the people to maintain a youthful & healthy appearance . Ultimately as the
population in the world of the median age increases there is rise in the demand of
the cosmeceuticals . Over 560 million people in India are in the age group of 18-35
years . As median age increases , the market is boom , especially growing number
of women in the workforce feeling the hassle to maintain a youthful and vibrant
appearance . This resulted into a rapid growth of cosmeceuticals in the natural
personal care industry . As there is constantly growth in global market a lot of
money is playing in hands of people at the same there is increase in the population
with higher qualification and knowledge thus this class of population has become
more beauty ~ conscious and thus is spending a high amount of their earning in
maintaining a youthful appearance i.e. in cosmeceuticals . Thus cosmeceuticals
market has become one of the fastest growing markets throughout the globe .CLASSES OF COSMECEUTICALS
Sunscreen :
These are considered as OTC drugs: sun protection factor must be proven by in-vitro and invivo
studies. These are regarded by dermatologists as the single most important formulation that
should be applied daily. These are the products formulated to meet individual preferences, such
as scent and feel, can improve compliance.
Retinoid :
These are the natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A.
Drugs :
Retinoic acid (tretinoin). Adapalene and tazarotene Substantial scientific data confirm their anti-
aging and anti-acne benefits. Retinoic acid is considered by dermatologists to be the anti-aging
gold standard. These are available only through a doctor's prescription.
Moisturizer :
Moisturizer includes emollients, occlusive’s, and humectants. They are considered to be the most
useful product for the management of various skin conditions (e.g. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis,
pruriws, aging skin)
Antioxidants :
These Include vitamins A , Cand E : alpha liopic acid : Ubiquinone ( coenzyme Q— 10) : idebenone
: polyphenols ( e.g. catechins , flavenoids ) : kinetin : botanicals ( e.g. teas , grapeseed . grape
skins and stems , coifeeberry ) . They enhance the skin’s natural antioxidant protection system
with topical application
They reduce free ~ radical damage by blocking the oxidative processes in cells . Antioxidants
inhibit inflammation that causes collagen depletion . They protect against photo damage and skin
cancer . They do reverse signs of photo aging
Lightning Agents :
At best, depigmenting agents can achieve modest levels of efficacy Hydroquinone is considered
to be the most effective . They are presently under re — evaluation by the US FDA . Sunscreen use
is required due to drug - induced photosensitivity , other examples include kojic acid , glabridin
(licorice extract ), arbutin , azelaic acid , n acetyl glucosamine and vitamin C.Botanicals /Plant Extracts :
They have experienced a rapid rise due to the popularity of “ natural “ compounds . These
represent the largest group of additives found in marketed products . They have limited scientific
data to support efficacy and safety .
Epidermal Growth Factors:
These are the naturally occurring chemicals in the body that influence cellular proliferation and
differentiation . The potential applications include regeneration of damaged or aged skin .
Proteins/ Peptides :
They can trigger skin repair as needed . There are some indications that they can reduce the signs
of aging and accelerate the skin’s healing processes
Other Vitamins and Minerals ;
Recently , the market is swamped with too many cosmeceuticals products like anti wrinkle
creams, medicated lotions , hair growth stimulants , antidandruff shampoos , eye wrinkle creams
, collagen injections , etc.
Botenical Extract :
It including teas , soy , pomegranate , date , grape seed , horse chestnut , German chamomile ,
curcumin , comfrey , allantoin and aloe , these are natural plant ~ based ingredients that can
contribute to generate refreshing , aromatic formulas to soothe , hydrate , and balance the skin
Some are designed to soothe and calm inflamed or irritated skin . Botanicals are typically not
the primary ingredient of a cosmeceutical but are combined with Retinoids and Hydroxy Acids to
create effective skin care products
Hydroxy Acid :
They are often referred to as" fruit acids " and are further classified into two sub - categories
according to their molecular structure : alpha hydroxy acids ( AHAS ) and beta hydroxy acids (
BHAS ) . AHAs such as Glycolic acid , Citric acid , Lactic acid , Malic acid , Mandelic acid and Tartaric
acid , are the uppermost anti - aging skin care ingredients today
‘Alpha hydroxyl acids ( AHAS ) act by normalizing cell turnover in the top layers of the skin ( ie.
epidermis ) , and by boosting the formation of normal and healthy skin . They also result in the
diminishing of fine lines and wrinkles by helping in reversing the sun damage to the dermis.
The most commonly used beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) is Salicylic acid which is most commonly used
in treatment in acne and pimples.SKIN CARE COSMECEUTICAL
‘Cosmetics and skin care products have become the part of everyday grooming of the people . It
is essential to Protect and preserve the skin for good health . Our skin , which is the largest organ
of the body acts by separating and protecting the internal environment from the external one
UV radiations coming from the sunlight penetrate the skin and accelerated damage due to free
radicals , which consist of wrinkling . inflammation and hyper pigmentation . The collagen and
elastin fibres of the skin due to prolonged exposure to UV radiation are broken down by enzymes
collagenase and elastate and thus the texture of skin deteriorates .
Collagen and elastin are responsible for maintaining the elasticity and integrity . of the skin .
Numerous plant extracts and antioxidants that are obtained from natural sources are able to
prevent the aging and also improving the appearance of the skin .
The most important botanicals pertaining to dermatologic uses , such as cosmeceuticals, include
teas, soy, pomegranate , date , grape seed . Pycnogenol , horse chestnut , Ge”man chamomile ,
curcumin , comfrey, allantoin , and aloe ; of all these only green and black tea , soy, pomegranate
and date have been studied to the extent that clinical trials for the treatment of parameters f
extrinsic aging have been published
Potential cosmeceuticals agents in this category include green tea , grape seed extract , vitamin
Eand beta-carotene
The following ingredients are use in Cosmeceutical:-
Vitamins :
Exposure to the UV radiations hastens the aging effect of the skin . The progressive telomere
shortening and finally its disruption by low — grade oxidative damage are related to the aging .
Damage is started by the generation of reactive oxygen species ( free radicals ).Itis a progressive
process whose consequences are DNA damage . The topical treatment of acne vulgaris with
vitamin Ais very well supported by evidence .
Vitamin 83 , which is commonly known as
and also in cosmeceuticals products and can be used as a complementary agent for some types
of acne , as well as in skin aging.
‘otinamide or niacinamide , is available in cosmetic
‘Activation of toll - like receptors may also be involved in the scarring process by activating the
metallo ~ proteinases . The retinoids are vitamin A derivatives constituting the most effective
‘comedolytic agents . They function by normalizing desquamation of the follicular epithelium ,
preventing the formation of new microcomedo , and minimizing the formation of comedones
and inflammatory lesions .Vitamin A:
Vitamin A ( all - trans ~ retinol ) in significant amounts is present in the human epidermis .
metabolism and transport of vitamin A can be damaged by both UVA and UVB
This may lead to deficiency of vitamin A in the skin. A small amount of retinol in the body gets
converted to all — trans retinoic acid also called tretinoin ( active form ) and rest of converted into
retinyl ester ( storage form ).
Acne has been successfully treated by use of Topical retinoids . The effectiveness of topical
tretinoin in the treatment of photo aged and intrinsically aged skin is sufficiently recognised . The
effects are believed to be mediated through its binding to the nuclear retinoid acid receptors .
Tretinoin cream in appropriated concentrations of 0.025 % , 0.05 % and 0.1 % as well as 0.1%
isotretinoin and 0.1 % tazarotene , frequently produce moderate to severe skin irritation . For
the treatment of photo aged skin Retinaldehyde ( 0.05 % ) is another useful topical agent . It has
a poorer frequency of irritation but fewer efficacies than tretinoin.
Vitamin E :
The physiological function of vitamin E , if applied dermally is to contribute to the antioxidant
defence of the skin , due to its tendency to absorb UV light in the solar spectrum region that is
mainly responsible for most of the harmful biologic effects of the sun.
Vitamin E inhibits lipid peroxidation in tissues , cells and it is a good antioxidant . It aids to
improve the performance of UV filters , moisturizes and softens skin . Vitamin € is the important
lipid - soluble antioxidant of the body and if oxidized , vitamin E can be regenerated back to its
reduced form by L- ascorbic acid
Vitamin C:
Rise of vitamin C in skin concentration is limited even with enormous oral supplementation .
Vitamin C has become a popular topically applied cosmeceutical because topical application of L
—ascorbic acid is the only way to further increase skin concentration . Free radical scavengers has
grasped the attention of researchers on vitamin C.
L—ascorbic acid which was first used as cosmeceutical creams is the active form of vitamin ~C .
Due to the oxidation of the vitamin exposed to air previous formulations of L— ascorbic acid were
very unstable . Esterified derivatives of L - ascorbic acid in topical formulations has been used to
overcome this problem and to improve stability . Ascorbyl - 6 - palmitate and magnesium
ascorbyl phosphate are the most commonly used derivatives.
All the researchers , despite these controversies , agrees that topically applied vitamin C has
several benefits , such as promoting collagen synthesis , lightening hyper — pigmentation , anti
inflammatory and photo - protective properties.Green tree extract :
Research has shown that green tea ( Cammeliasinensis ) poly phenols are powerful suppressors
of carcinogenic activity from UV radiation and can exert wide protection against other UV
mediated responses , such as immuno ~ suppressant , sunburn and photo aging
Ferulic Acid :
These are the compound that are derived from plants , and are considered to be a potent
antioxidant and has been shown to provide photo protection to skin Moreover , when ferulic
acid is mixed with vitamins C and vitamin E, the product has been shown to provide substantial
UV protection for human skin
Grapes seed Extract
These are the botanical that has been well recognised as a potent antioxidant and has been
shown to enhance wound contraction and closure . Topical application of grape seed extract has
also been shown to boost the sun protection factor in humans.
Kojic Acid :
There are patents controlling its use for lightening of skin . Kojic acid is a by ~ product in the
fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine
‘Some research shows kojic acid to be effective in stopping melanin production .
Antioxidants:
‘Along with the external insults like UV radiation , drugs , air pollutants and heat and / or cold
the skin also has to cope with endogenous mitogens , most importantly reactive oxygen species
(ROS } and other free radicals . These species are constantly generated during physiological
cellular metabolism .
To respond to the harmful effects of ROS , the skin is armed with an antioxidant system to
maintain equilibrium between the pro - oxidants , or damaging agents and the antioxidants , or
protective agents ; these antioxidants mediate at different levels in the protective process .
1. Lipoic acid :
Lipoic acid is an exclusive free radical protector that is fat and water soluble . Once li
crosses the cell membrane, it is broken down into dihydrofolic acid , which is also an antioxidant
Alpha lipoic acid also reuses other important antioxidants , such as vitamin C. vitamin and
glutathione.2. Dimethylaminoethanol :
Topical preparations comprising dimethylaminoethanol ( DMAE ) have been advertised for their
ability to improve skin firmness and to lift sagging skin . DMAE is able to diminish the cross -
linking of proteins that occurs during aging , probably acting as a free - radical scavenger .
3. Melatonin :
Melatonin is a hormone secreted by the pineal gland . The advantageous action of melatonin has
been enlightened in terms of its ability to scavenge free radicals and to augment the activities of
antioxidant enzymes . It has been shown to suppress UV radiation — induced erythema .
Depigmenting Agent :
Groups : Hyperpigmentation is the result of an increased amount of melanin in the epidermis ,
the dermis , or both . This change in pigmentation can be divided into two pathophysiologic
processes : Melanocytosis ( increased number of melanocytes ) and Melanosis ( increased
amount of melanin )
Depigmenting agents work best when melanosis or melanocytosis is restricted to the epidermis.
Depigmenting agents can be further divided into several groups.
+ Hydroquinone , Monobenzylether of hydroquinone , 4~ Methoxyphenol , 4—Isopropylcatechol
4— Hydroxyanisol and N — acetyl - 4 — $ —cysteaminylphenol .
Regenerating agents :
There are multiplicities of ingredients that have slight anti - inflammatory properties able to
soothe irritated and stressed skin . Typical examples include are aloe Vera , allantoin and rose hip
oil which all are widely used in skin care preparations for sensitive or irritated skin .
World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences properties promoting the growth of new
skin cells and supporting wound healing . Both provitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid are thus
frequently used in after - peeling treatments , anti aging formulations and in all treatments
aiming to provide smoothness & softening to the skin
Moisturizer :
The cutaneous permeability barrier is localized in the stratum corneum interstices mediated by
the lameliar bilayers enriched in cholesterol , free fatty acids and ceramides .Formulations conta
jing skin — identical lipids have been suggested to facilitate a cascade of
physiologic events in keratinocytes , normalizing damaged skin . When applied to the skin for a
prolonged period , water can cause the elimination of cytokines . These pro inflammatory
molecules induce edema , vasodilatation , and frank inflammation ; therefore , water alone may
modify both the structure and the function of the skin under certain conditions
By the same token , moisturizers that make the stratum corneum softer and more pliant by
increasing its hydration could be considered cosmeceuticals
Kinetins
Clinical studies have shown that Kinetin reverses the signs of photo damaged skin and develops
the overall appearance of the skin , thereby making it smoother and more even in color and
noticeably diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles .
‘The studies has also showed that Kinetin significantly improves the skin barrier function , assisting
skin to retain more moisture , thereby making the skin more softer and smoother
kinetin a chemical messenger is a cytokinin that has been shown to reduce the signs of aging
that are primarily due to photo damage . Kinetin Is a vital plant growth factor that can also be
found in the human body involved in tissue repair
Lipo light :
Lipo Light is used in selected formulations because almost all approaches to skin
correction take time to achieve full effect .
The principle of LipoLight’s ” soft focus “ technology is based on scattered light . In
this light waves are reflected back from wrinkles and enlarged pores . Similarly as.
proper lighting improves a photograph , rejecting the shadows from wrinkles and
pores makes them less visible
Sodium Hyaluronate :
Hyaluronic Acid ( HA ) is the naturally occurring and widespread component found within the
extra ~ cellular space within bodily tissues ( ECM ) , especially those of the face
The spaces between the connective fibers collagen and elastin in the dermis are filled up by its
water binding and water attracting qualities
HA function is to hydrate and separate the skin Dermis layer of skin is made up of about 70 %
water and claims approximately 50 % of body’s total HA allotment ; there it aids to support and
hydrate the skin .Hair cosmeceticals
The appearance of hair is a feature of the body over which humans , unlike other land mammals
has direct control . The length , color and the style of the hair can be modified according one’s
wish to appear . Styling of hair along with its color plays a vital role in the appearance of people
In ancient times the setting and coloring of hair was done with the help of mud and henna resp .
various tonics and ointment for beautification of hair and for curing scalp disease were used in
ancient Greece and Rome .
Henry de Mandeville first made the distinction between the medical therapies intended for
treatment of disease and cosmetic agent for beautification . But today's delineation of cosmetics
from pharmaceuticals has become more complex through the development of cosmetics with
physiologically active ingredients, i.e. cosmeceuticals . By far the most frequent form of cosmetic
hair treatment is shampooing . While shampoos have
primarily been products aimed at cleaning the hair and scalp , recent formulations are modified
to the variations associated with hair quality , hair care habit , and specific problems such as
treatment of oily hairs . dandruff.) and for androgenic alopecia . related to the superficial
condition of the scalp
For the treatment of hair , cosmetics are applied topically to the scalp and hair . While they can
never be used for therapeutic purposes , they must be not be hurtful to the skin and scalp , to
the hair, and to the mucous membranes and should have non — toxic effect , general or local , in
normal conditions of their use
‘The compositions of hair - care cosmetic are iodopropynyl butyl carbamate and / or a solution
of zinc pyrithione in N ~ acyl ethylenediamine triacetate which have been patented , which also
includes an appropriate carrier and a non allergenic dry extract of yarrow ( Achillea millefolium
L.), which is obtained by oxidation of a water alcohol solution extract of flower tops of yarrow
These extract contains less than 0.5 % by weight of polyphenolic derivatives , and are used for
the treatment of hair , especially in oily hair , that is based on extract of yarrow . It is usually
acknowledged that genetic hair loss arises from the activation of an inherited predisposition to
circulating androgenic hormones .
A hair cosmeceuticals product includes conditioning agents , special care ingredients and hair
growth stimulants
Conditioning agents are envisioned to impart softness and gloss , to lessen flyaway and to enrich
disentangling facility . A number of ingredients may be used , mostly includes fatty ingredients ,
hydrolyzed proteins , quaternized cationic derivatives , cationic polymers and silicons.Special care
ingredients are targeted at modifying specific problems relating to superficial scalp .
10List of Cosmeceutical Ingredients:
Si. [Ingredient | Purported action Sources Marketed Preparation
, ; : Comfrey ;
1 | Allatonin | Skin Smoothening a Soft cleansing emulsion
2 | Aloe vera _| Softens skin ae Lotus herbal moisturizers
(Fm Asphodebceae)
‘Alpha, : ; Fruit acids (glycolic acid, actio |
3 [hadexy | Esolintesand improves et Scat car aca, | Cami ant wrinkle
acids(AHA) pyruvic acid, maleic acid, etc._| Pr°Pat
: —___| Amica montane
4 | Arnica Astringent & soothing | (ys one ‘Arnica herbal cream
Axjunolic | Antioxidant and anti--— | Terminalia arjuna ;
5 | extract inflammatory (Fm, Combretaceace) Himalaya Astoaa
Beta , ;
6 | Peaoxyt | Antibacterial Sai act ‘Oxymed shampoo
acids(BHA)
Minimizes lipid
Beta- ae ac | CarTots and tomatoes . res
7 | Carotene | Peroxidation and cellular | (5 Umberliferae, Solanacea) | PAviton body cream
antioxidant
Antiinflammatory and | Boswellia serrata (Fm. ‘Aroma silk boswelia anti-
8 | Boswel Burseraceae) :
anti aging wrinkle cream
Soothes, softens skin, coal
z | Calendula officinalis (Fm
9 | Calendula, | and promotes cell ene Weleda calendula paste
formation.
kin conditioning agent
increases collagen
production, improves
texture and Contella asciatica (Fm.
20; | Centetta integrity of skin, and | Mackinlayaceae) Keratin complex
reduces
Appearance of stretch
marks.
Coleus 7
son | Antimicrobial : ' :
1] forskoft oft |e ieceratperfamer | Cols SP Ayush neem plus
Coriander | Anti-inflammatory and | Coriandrum sativa as
12 | seed oil anti-irritant, skin, (Fm.Umbelliferae) ‘es .
lightening properties
Cucumber | Refreshes, and tightens | Cucumis sativus (Fim Eminence eye makeup
13 | Cools res remover
pores Cucurbiceae)
; : Tuniper yarrow
14 | Dryextract | rreatment of oily hair, | Achillea millefotium (Fm. moisturizer
from yarrow Asteraceae)
Essential | Smoothens, moisturizes | Linolenic acids and Parachute hair oil
15 | fatty acids ‘ :
and protects arachidonic acid
Furfuryladen :
16 | ine Improves hydration and | Prant growth hormone Kinerase lips treatment
texture of skin
11REGULATORY SCENARIO
In the European Union , United States or Japan , Cosmeceuticals are not regulated as such . In
the EU , cosmeceuticals are considered cosmetics . In the United States , they are considered as
drugs that probably have not been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration ( FDA).
In Japan , cosmeceuticals are considered as quasi - drugs . There exists no recognized legal
definition of a cosmeceuticals , as compared to the legal definition of a cosmetic or a drug ,
anywhere in the world
Indian Regulatory Scenario
Essential issues with the recent Indian cosmetic regulations include the following .
‘+ Multiple and complex regulations under different bodies .
‘* Indian cosmetic definition is narrow & restrictive
‘+ Lack of execution guidelines of the D&C Act for regulators for issues related to
Cosmetics such as
‘+ Non uniform licensing approvals across various states
‘© inconsistent approach across authorities in interpretation of a particular issue
‘* Absence of guidelines on product claim interpretation as well as illustrative lists of
cosmetics , cause difference in understanding between licensing authorities on product
classification and hence delaying the process of product licensing and product trade cycle
'* Paec of BIS Standards development/ revision are not in line with technological progress
thus deterring innovation and growth.
The provisions relating to manufacture , sale , storage , distribution and import of drugs as well
‘as cosmetics in India is governed by Drugs and Cosmetics Act , 1940.
There is no term as" Cosmeceuticals “in the Act ; the said Act clearly defines the terms “ Drug “
and “ Cosmetic “, As such nobody has a legal or statutory right to use the term for drawing
benefits of any sort
The terms either “ drug “ or “ cosmetic " have to be used for all intents and purposes and usage
of any other term to replace or substitute either of these two terms is simply illegal , there is no
rationale.
The term " Cosmeceuticals “ however may be used for purposes other than legal / statutory /
drawing benefits / seeking relaxations or concessions etc.
2Some Marketed Cosmeceutical Product :
Srno | Product Name Tntended use.
1_| Alpha Lipoic Acid Antioxidant, Antiaging
2 | Amla (Saberry) ‘Anti-aging, Hair care
3_| Boswellin CG Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-aging
. Skin conditioning agent, Wound healing effects, Supports
fees circulation, Sma texture & Skin integrity 7
5 | Cococin Moisturization, promotescell growth, Supports blood
circulation
6_| Coffee Bean Extract Antioxidant, Antiaging, Hair care
7_| Coleus Barbatus Extract Skin conditioning agent, Anti-aging
8_| Coleus forskohlii oil ‘Anti-microbial, Anti-acne, Aromatherapy, Perfumery
9 | Cosmoperine. Permeation enhancer
10_[ Ellagic Acid Antioxidant, Skin lightening
T_| ForsLean Skin conditioning agent, Anti-aging
12_| Gallnut Extract ‘Anti-aging, Antioxidant
13_| Glycerrhizinic Acid Skin smoothing, Skin conditioning, Anti-aging
14_| Green Tea CG ‘Antioxidant, Anti microbial, UVB protectant
15__| Licorice Extract CG Skin whitening, Anti-Inflammatory
16 | Liposol Maleate Antioxidant
17_[Lupeol ‘Anti Iritant, Wound healing, Skin conditioning agent
2 nae Geena Skin smoothing, Skin conditioning, Anti-aging
19_| MonoLaurin ‘Anti-microbial, hair care, Skin texture
20 | Neem Olt Limonoids ‘Anti-microbial, Anti-fungal, Insect repellent,
Anti-pediculosis
21_| Oleanolie Acid Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anticmicrobial
22_| Oleuropein 80% ‘Anti-microbial Antioxidant
23_| OxyResvenox ‘Anti-Fungal, Anti-acne, UVB protectant
24 | Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus) | Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory ,Anti-microbial
25_| Rosemary extract CG ‘Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti -microbial
26 | Rosmarinie acid 90% Antioxidant, AnticInflammatory, Anti -microbial
27_| SabiWhite Skin whitener, Antioxidant
13CONCLUSION
Cosmetics are a great example of how discoveries in chemistry are part of our day-to-day lives.
In fact, just reading the composition of any common cosmetic can become a chemistry class:
water, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, pH stabilizers, dyes and fragrances, combined in
different ratios, for different purposes.
Cosmetics are primarily used to enhance one’s facial features Most people use cosmetics for
emotional reasons. Consumer satisfa the greatest when the beauty products help to
strengthen positive emotions through the perception of ‘caring for oneself’ and removing
feelings of worry and guilt about not taking care of one’s appearance,”
Although the chemicals in cosmetic products are intended to improve the appearance of skin,
lips, and lashes, some can cause adverse effects such as acne, wrinkles and even miscarriages
for pregnant women. Hence it is not recommended to use cosmetics too regularly. We should
also look out for the ingredients in products and avoid harmful chemicals like Phthalates,
parabens and dioxanes .
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