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Assembly Manual Tap

Voron Tap is a nozzle-based z-probe for Voron 3D printers that offers several advantages over other z-probes, including extreme precision, the ability to measure any securely mounted build surface, and durability for high temperature operations. It uses an optical sensor to detect movement and will never wear out like contact switches. Tap provides consistent probing temperatures with a single activate_gcode macro and eliminates the need for a separate z-endstop. It also provides crash protection for the nozzle and bed. However, users are warned that Tap is thicker than stock carriages and may require adjusting the bed position or y-travel to ensure clearance from the printer doors.

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Caleb
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© © All Rights Reserved
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
230 views

Assembly Manual Tap

Voron Tap is a nozzle-based z-probe for Voron 3D printers that offers several advantages over other z-probes, including extreme precision, the ability to measure any securely mounted build surface, and durability for high temperature operations. It uses an optical sensor to detect movement and will never wear out like contact switches. Tap provides consistent probing temperatures with a single activate_gcode macro and eliminates the need for a separate z-endstop. It also provides crash protection for the nozzle and bed. However, users are warned that Tap is thicker than stock carriages and may require adjusting the bed position or y-travel to ensure clearance from the printer doors.

Uploaded by

Caleb
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 38

VORON

VORON TAP
We build space shuttles with gardening tools
so anyone can have a space shuttle of their own.
VERSION 2022-12-16
INTRODUCTION WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

Before you begin this journey, a word of caution.

In the comfort of your own home, you are about to assemble a robot. This machine
can maim, burn, and electrocute you if you are not careful. This machine can start a
fire.

Please do not become the first VORON fatality. There is no special Reddit flair for that.

Please read the entire manual before you start assembly. As you begin wrenching,
please check our Discord channels for any tips and questions that may halt your progress.

Most of all, good luck!

2
TABLE OF CONTENTS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

Printing Guidelines 4

Welcome to Tap 8

Optical Sensor Options 12

Printed Parts Diagram 14

BOM 15

Hardware and Tools 16

Assembly 18

Toolhead Install 34

Release the Magnets! 36

3
PRINT SETTINGS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

PART PRINTING GUIDELINES


The Voron Team has provided the following print guidelines for you to follow in order to have the best chance
at
success with your parts. There are often questions about substituting materials or changing printing
standards, but we recommend you follow these:

3D PRINTING PROCESS INFILL TYPE


Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) Grid, Gyroid, Honeycomb, Triangle or Cubic

MATERIAL INFILL PERCENTAGE


ABS or ABS+ Recommended: 40%

LAYER HEIGHT WALL COUNT


Recommended: 0.2mm Recommended: 4

EXTRUSION WIDTH SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS


Recommended: Forced 0.4mm Recommended: 5

4
BEFORE WE BEGIN WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

FILE NAMING
The STL files for our parts are available in our Github repository. The parts use this naming convention:

PRIMARY COLOR ACCENT COLOR PART VERSIONING

Example Tap_Front_r1.stl Example [a]Tap_Center_r1.stl Example Tap_Front_r1.stl

These files will have nothing at We have added “[a]” to the front Part names will have a revision
the start of the filename. of any STL file that is intended to number at the end (e.g., “r1”).
be printed with accent color. The It is normal for revision numbers
parts are marked with a heart in to not match up: not all parts are
the manual. changed for every revision.
Always see the Github repository
for the latest parts.
HOW TO GET HELP
If you need assistance with your build, we’re here to help. Head on over to our Discord group, Forum, or to Reddit and post
your questions. We have a great community that can help you if you get stuck.

https://discord.gg/voron

https://forum.vorondesign.com/

https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign
5
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

REPORTING ISSUES
Should you find an issue in the documentation or have a suggestion for an improvement, please
consider opening an issue on GitHub (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/issues). When raising
an issue, please include the relevant page numbers and a short description. Annotated screenshots are
also very welcome and helpful. We periodically update the manual based on the feedback we get.

THIS IS JUST A REFERENCE


This manual is designed to be a simple reference manual. For additional information, we recommend
downloading the CAD file from our Github repository. It can sometimes be easier to follow along when
you have the whole assembly in front of you.

https://github.com/vorondesign

DOCS https://docs.vorondesign.com

6
AN ASSEMBLY MANUAL? WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM
We need to write an assembly manual?

…AND DONE.
This is all you need to see, really.
But, just in case though, read
through this document carefully.

7
INTRODUCTION: WELCOME TO TAP WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

WHAT IS TAP?
Tap is a nozzle-based z-probe for the V2 and Trident printer designs. The entire toolhead moves to trigger an optical switch.
Tap offers many advantages over other z-probes; Here are a few examples:
EXTREME PRECISION
A well constructed Tap, when in service on a well-constructed printer, will be able to measure your Z position reliably with a precision of 0.4 µm
(0.0004 mm). This precision will help you better use and maintain your printer.

ANY BUILD SURFACE, CHANGE AT WILL


Tap can measure any securely mounted build surface. Print on Glass, Garolite, Alumina, Moon dust…it no longer matters. Textured plates are ideal for
Tap, but adhesive PEI sheets may also be used. Tap is unaffected by beds with magnetic fluctuations (note: magnets may affect the build surface Tap
is sensing, such as pulling the plate tighter over the magnet). Once Tap is setup, you should not need to recalibrate after changing nozzles or build
plates.

VORON DURABILITY, HIGH TEMPERATURE OPERATIONS (OPTICAL SENSOR VERSIONS)


Tap uses light to detect movement and will never wear out. The sensor in Tap is rated to operate at 70C to 100C and will not degrade over time the
way a contact switch or inductive probe can. Even if you brought your chamber temperature to 100C, it will accurately and reliably record your printer
melting (assuming you printed in ABS). We tested dozens of printers and thousands of print hours. Hundreds of PIF quality kits were printed using
Tap. Some test printers had over 1,000,000 probe cycles to test durability.

NO COMPLICATED MACROS
For consistent probing temperatures, Tap uses a single ‘activate_gcode’ macro in the [probe] config. Tap is always ready to probe and requires no
docking or undocking moves.

Z ENDSTOP ELIMINATION
There is no need for a separate Z endstop. Once the offset is configured, it will hold without appreciable drift. It is normal to need slightly different
offsets when switching between filament types.

CRASH PROTECTION
With Tap installed, the nozzle and bed are protected from minor crashes (such as accidentally setting your Z to 1 mm below the build surface, or
running into a curled up print). In extreme crashes, Tap can break away completely, saving you from a hidden break elsewhere in your printer.
8
IMPORTANT WARNINGS! WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

TAP 2.4R2 MGN12


SPECIAL WARNING ON Y POSITION:
Tap is ~3 mm thicker than the stock 2.4R2 and Trident X carriages. This places the toolhead closer to your doors. Make
sure you have clearance, and you may need to adjust your bed position on V2 or Y travel on Trident.

HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS:
YOU MUST USE THE MGN12H X-AXIS
You must already be using the MGN12 based X-Axis.Tap does not fit on the older MGN9 based X-axis.

CW2 STYLE MOUNTED EXTRUDER REQUIRED


Tap replaces the X-carriage mount, and requires that the mounting screws come in from the front of the carriage
like CW2, not the back like CW1. There are mounts for LGX and Galileo available.

BED MOUNT MUST BE SECURE 71.6 mm 68.7 mm


When Tap is probing, the nozzle will contact the bed with a force of approximately 500-800 grams. Your bed
should not move during this. Bed motion compromises the accuracy of Tap, so it is not recommended for Voron
1.8, Legacy, or Switchwire designs.

If you want to know if Tap is right for you, tap your finger on the bed firmly. If the bed moves, Tap is not right for
you.

GOOD MECHANICAL CONDITION


Tap is far more precise than previous Z sensing systems, and we have found it can reveal previously unnoticed
problems in a printer. If your printer has known mechanical issues (such as cracked components) fix them before
attempting Tap.

9
SERIOUSLY…HOW DOES THIS THING WORK? WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

TOOLHEAD ON A RAIL
With Tap, the entire toolhead (including Extruder) can move in the Z direction on a short MGN9 rail with a MGN9H carriage. In normal printing
operation, the toolhead is held in place by a pair of magnets, acting on a pair of screws. During probing the toolhead lifts up slightly, activating a
photointerrupter switch concealed in the mechanism.

OPTICAL SENSOR OR MECHANICAL SWITCH


See the BOM for the sensor part numbers.
These are all tested and are known to work. If
you ignore this advice and buy a random sensor
off Amazon, it may not work.
FRONT (BLACK)
Connects to the toolhead and extruder,
The mechanical switch option is provided in case
rides on a MGN9 Rail, and houses the
you cannot find the optical sensors.
sensor.

CENTER (RED)
Houses magnets, retains belts, and is connected
to the MGN12H X-axis. Up top, there’s a plastic
tab that triggers the optical sensor.

10
SIDE VIEW WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

NORMAL OPERATING POSITION TRIGGERED

Magnetic and gravitational forces keep the toolhead from shifting during printing. If the
nozzle contacts something solid (like the bed), the black section of Tap and toolhead move
TAP REPLACES THE X CARRIAGE
up, and the optical sensor will trigger. There are stops built in to prevent it from moving too
Tap is a drop in replacement for the X Carriage.
far, unless you really want the front to fall off.
The toolhead and extruder mount to Tap, which
is mounted to the MGN12 X axis.

11
SENSOR OPTIONS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM
CHOOSE TO USE EITHER THE WIRED OPTICAL SENSOR OR THE PCB-BASED SENSOR
WIRED OPTICAL SENSOR:
Tap was designed to use and Optek OPB991 sensor (see BOM for part numbers)
Pre-release versions of Tap used OPB990 sensors. We switched to 991 because some MCU’s were shown to be sensitive to having +5v on a signal pin.
These sensors are pre-wired, but you will have to add a 220 Ohm resistor to the wiring as a current limiter. The exact resistance is not critical, it can be +/- 10% of 220 Ohms, and should be rated for ¼
watt or higher. Soldering this resistor is no harder than adding the diode for the old inductive sensors…but soldering isn't for everyone. See next page for details on soldering this together.

PCB-BASED SENSOR:
Recognizing that soldering is difficult for some builders, Voron engineers designed a PCB-based sensor. This mounts an Optek OPB666N or OPB971N sensor. This PCB has the advantage of having
an indicator light on the board. The files for making this may be found on the Voron Github. https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap

MECHANICAL SWITCH D2HW-C203MR


We’ve had a lot of supply issues with the optical switches. The mechanical switch is inferior to the optical choices, but still better than staying with a non-tap sensor. The only mechanical swich I can
reccomend is the Omron D2HW-C203MR (D2HW-C203MRS is identical for our purposes)

WHICH ONE IS BETTER?


Both opticals and the mechanical are capable of 0.4 µm accuracy (assuming the rest of the printer is in good condition). If you can, get the optical PCB-based sensor. Having an indicator light is a big
plus, and the OPB666N sensor is good to 100° Celsius operating temperature. The OPB991 and OPB971 sensors are rated to 70° Celsius which should be fine for most Voron printers. The sensor is
away from significant sources of heat.

IF YOU PURCHASE A PREBUILT PCB-BASED SENSOR


Make sure it’s based on either an Optek 971N51 or OPB666N sensor, and its designed to work with Tap. Don’t buy a generic sensor and expect it to work, this is not the place to save a couple of
bucks.

MAKE SURE YOUR SENSOR CAN HANDLE YOUR VOLTAGE


V1 PCBs and the wired optical sensors were designed for 5 volts, 24
volts is more than 5 volts.
Connecting to 24 volts may appear to work at first, but the sensor will
burn out.
12
ASSEMBLE SENSOR (WIRED SENSOR OPTION ONLY) WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

HOW TO CONNECT THE WIRED OPTICAL SENSOR


1. Solder the red wire to one side of resistor.
(Approx. 10-15 mm away from the sensor body)
2. Solder the white wire to the other side of resistor.
3. Solder the black and green wires together.
4. Cover all solder joints and the resistor with shrink tube.
5. Connect the red wire to +5 volts, blue wire to the signal pin of your MCU,
and the black wire to ground (0 volts).

~10-15 mm
220 Ohm ¼ watt resistor (+/-

Red/white: To MCU +5v

Black/Green: To MCU 0V

13
PRINT THESE FOUR PARTS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

PRINT ONE UPPER


Which upper to print depends on the sensor choice:
FRONT
Tap_Front_r1.stl PCB-BASED SENSOR:
RIGHT MAGNET HOLDER Use Tap_Upper_PCB_r1.stl if you use the PCB-based
Tap_Magnet_Right_r1.stl. sensor.
Notice one dot (blue) on the
right.

+
WIRED SENSOR:
Use Tap_Upper_Wired_r1.stl if you use the wired
sensor. Notice the wiring channel in blue.
CENTER
[a]Tap_Center_r1.stl
LEFT MAGNET HOLDER
Tap_Magnet_Left_r1.stl. Note
the left has 2 dots marked in
blue below
D2HW-C203MR SWITCH
Use Tap_Upper_D2HW_r1.stl if you use the
mechanical switch.

14
BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM) WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM
Qty Description Notes
1 50 mm MGN9 rail See cutting guide in this manual for details.
1 MGN 9H carriage Medium preload (Z1) is preferred, light or no preload will also work. Carriage must be removable from rail.
2 6 mm x 3 mm magnet 6 mm diameter by 3 mm tall cylinder. N52 strength is preferred , N35 or higher strength is required.
11-12 M3 heat-set insert These are standard Voron inserts, 5 mm diameter 4 mm long. 11 for optical versions, 12 for the D2HW version.
1 M3 hex nut ISO 4032 / DIN 934
6 M3 washer ISO 7089 / DIN 125 7 mm outer diameter, 0.5 mm thickness
2 M3 x 20 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 socket head cap screw
2 M3 x 16 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 socket head cap screw
1 M3 x 12 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 socket head cap screw
3 M3 x 8 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 socket head cap screw
1 M3 x 6 SHCS ISO 4762 / DIN 912 socket head cap screw
2 M3 x 6 FHCS ISO 10642 / DIN 7991 flat head cap screw MUST BE MAGNETIC, NO STAINLESS!
2 M3 x 10 BHCS ISO 7380-1 button head cap screw
10 M3 x 6 BHCS ISO 7380-1 button head cap screw

PCB-Based Sensor option


1 OptoTap PCB See Github repository https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap
1 OPB Sensor Two known good part numbers: OPB 666 N, OPB 971 N51

Wired Sensor option


1 220 Ohm resistor ¼ Watt, +/- 10% (or better) tolerance resistor. For example, CFR-25JB-52-220R
1 OPB Sensor Four known good part numbers: OPB 991 P51Z , OPB 991 L51Z, OPB 991 T51Z, OPB 991 T11Z

OMRON D2HW-C203MR Switch option


1 D2HW-C203MR Can substitute D2HW-C203MRS, they are identical except the “S “has a UL rating. Digikey US link
1 M3x8 BHCS If you have sufficient clearance to the cable chain, a SHCS can be used here instead

15
HARDWARE REFERENCE WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (SHCS)


BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREW (BHCS)
Metric fastener with a cylindrical head
Metric fastener with a domed shape head
and hex drive. The most common fastener
and hex drive.
used on the Voron.
ISO 7380-1
ISO 4762

MAGNETS
FLAT HEAD COUNTERSUNK SCREW How do they work?
(FHCS) These are round 6mm in diameter by
Metric fastener with a cone shaped head and 3 mm tall. Shorter ones are OK.
a flat top. (down to 2.7 mm)
MUST BE MAGNETIC, NO STAINLESS! N52 are preferred, but N35 can work
ISO 10642
Lower strength might cause ringing
at high acceleration.
AW, NUTS!
Actually, its just the one nut. HEAT-SET INSERT
We don’t like nut pockets either, but These are made of brass , threaded on
sometimes its the right move. the inside and and has ridges on the
Metric fastener. Only used in M3 size. outside. Heat them up to approx 250C
with a soldering iron and push them into
ISO 4032
the plastic.
As the plastic cools, it solidifies around
WASHER
the knurls and ridges on the insert for
Usually stamped from sheet metal, this
excellent resistance to both torque and
type of spacer is not as consistent in
pull-out.
thickness as the shims are. Only used in
M3 size.

DIN 125

16
TOOLS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

SOLDERING IRON
PRINTED CUT GUIDE
We use this for setting heat-set inserts into
If you have to cut your MGN9 yourself,
parts. Depending on your sensor choice,
this can help you mark the places to cut.
you might be soldering some wires
Remove the tool before cutting, or you
together.
will melt it to the rail.
ANGLE GRINDER/DREMEL
If you can’t find a pre-cut 50 mm MGN9
SUPERGLUE
rail, you’ll need to cut down a longer one.
Yes, we consider this a tool. Superglue is
Leave your grandfather’s trusty hacksaw
useful as a plastic safe threadlock, and
in the toolbox: rails are usually hardened
magnet glue. Cheap, single-use gel tubes
steel.
are fine.

VISE
A vise is handy if you have to cut your
MGN9 rail. A vise may also be helpful
when putting magnets in their holders. MGN9 ASSEMBLY TOOL
We love this thing. Print it. You will need
WIRING CRIMPER it.
You’ll need this to wire up the sensor.
Or maybe theres a turnkey solution out Marvel at its simplicity and wonder why
there you can buy, check Discord. If you you never thought of it before.
got this far without learning how to crimp,
we don’t judge.

17
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

MGN9 ASSEMBLY TOOL


CAREFULLY REMOVE THE CARRIAGE Fit the tool over the bearings on one side.
Do this over a bowl or other container, just Squeeze the sides of the tool and rotate it
in case a ball drops out. If some do, don’t to fit it over the other side’s bearings, then
panic! They can be pushed back in, just release pressure.
add the balls back to the middle of the
carriage. The tool serves to hold the balls in place
when not installed on a rail, and will help
you reinstall the carriage later. Not bad
for a 7 minute print, right?

18
MGN9 CUTTING GUIDE WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM
ENDS CAN BE +/- 1 MM OFF FROM THIS
DRAWING
Just make sure you have 3 holes spaced
like so. One in the center, and the other
two ~ 5 mm from the ends.

USE THE GUIDE TO MARK WHERE TO CUT


If you have a longer rail you are cutting. Install this guide on the rail,
mark the ends where you will cut.
Don’t forget to remove the guide before cutting, it will melt.

DEBURR AND CLEAN AFTER CUTTING


Smooth over any sharp edges on the cut surfaces
with a file, and clean the rail carefully.

You don’t want slivers of metal getting into the


carriage or damaging the ball bearings.

19
REMOVE SUPPORTS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

WE DON’T ALWAYS USE SUPPORTS, BUT WHEN WE DO:


…There is a good reason, the support is well designed, and it is easily removable.

Remove the indicated supports and discard them.

Bonus points if the support makes a face.

20
MAGNETS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

MAGNET PRESS
(2) 6x3 magnets 1. Place magnet on a flat surface (polarity doesn’t
2 drops RTV or Superglue matter)
2. Place a drop of CA glue on top of the magnet
3. Place magnet holder on magnet.
4. Using a strong flat tool, firmly press magnet holder
down over magnet.

Do this for both left and right magnet holders.

Alternately you can use channel lock pliers (or a vise)


for this,. Whatever tool you use please go slow and
don’t crush the parts or your fingers!

ROUND MAGNET, HEX HOLE


The magnet seats here hold much better than
a round hole. The seats have been carefully
designed and tested to maximize holding
power.

DO YOU SMELL…GLUE?
Yes, yes you do. Specifically superglue, but you could also use RTV silicone, just a drop. Is all that is needed.
Despite our best efforts, the magnets can still come loose without it.

21
HEAT-SET INSERTS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

HEAT-SET INSERTS
This design relies on heat-set inserts.
Make sure you have the proper inserts
(check the hardware reference for a
close up picture and the BOM for
dimensions).

If you’ve never worked with heat-set


inserts before, we recommend you
watch the linked guide.

https://voron.link/m5ybt4d

22
HEAT-SET INSERTS AND M3 NUT WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

INSERT… FROM THE BACK?


Some of these inserts might seem backwards to
you. Trust us, this is the way. Pay attention that
you don’t push them too far.
The inserts should sit flush with the surface they
are embedded in.

TAP_UPPER_D2HW HAS ONE MORE INSERT


This option (for the mechanical switch version)
has one extra heatset insert in the back. (10) Heat-set Inserts
(1) M3 Hex Nut

23
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

INSERTING HEX NUTS


This can often be helped along by
using a longer screw to draw the
nut into the cup, then removing the
long screw and using the M3 x 6

See here for details from Prusa

CORRECTLY INSERTED
There is a cone-shaped access hole to allow you
to insert these heat-sets to the correct depth.

24
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

(2) M3x20 SHCS

(2) M3x16 SHCS

2.5 mm

LEAVE ROOM FOR THE TOOLHEAD


The M3x16’s thread into the plastic directly.
Don’t tighten fully, leave approximately 2.5
mm for the toolhead to mate with them.

25
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM
OPTICAL SENSOR SCREWS INTO PLASTIC, BE
GENTLE
Note that OPB991P or OPB991L wired sensors
will only have one M3x8 here, while the wired
OPB991T and all PCB-based sensors have two
screws.

(1 or 2) M3x8 SHCS

Optical Wired

POINTS FOR NEATNESS


Voron takes wiring seriously, and you should too.
Use a zip-tie to secure wires to the upper . On the
Wired sensor option, use the printed channel to
tuck the wires away safely from moving parts.
D2HW Switch
Optical PCB option
26
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

FUN FACT
This part has thin voids inside it (blue). When the part
is sliced, these produce internal ribs which strengthen
the part. If your slicer closes these up, recheck your
slicer settings for hole size compensation. Default
slicer profiles are available for Voron printers in the
github repository.

(2) M3x6 FHCS (2) M3x6 BHCS

THREAD INTO PLASTIC AT AN ANGLE


The holes here are designed at an angle. WHAT ARE THESE FOR?
Go slow. Tighten the FHCS until they are When you install the toolhead, the bottom of
flush, but do not over tighten. the toolhead should rest on these screw heads.

27
ASSEMBLE CENTER WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

2 DOTS LEFT, ONE DOT RIGHT


The magnet holders are marked with dots.
The left has two dots, the right has one dot.

We could say that there is only one way they


fit, but we don’t want to underestimate you.

SNUG IN FARTHEST BACK POSITION


These are the magnet adjustment screws. For now,
just snug them up with the magnet holders as far
M3x10 BHCS back as they will go. We’ll adjust them later.
+ M3 washer

M3x10 BHCS
+ M3 washer

28
ASSEMBLE CENTER WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

(4) M3x6 BHCS

M3x6 SHCS

M3x8 SHCS

M3x12 SHCS
+ heatset

HEATSET USED AS STANDOFF


This heatset is used as a standoff. Thread it onto the M3x12 as shown before using the M3x12 to secure the rail
to the center. When tightened, the M3x12 head will still be above the rail surface and act as a carriage stop.

29
INSTALL X-SWITCH/ HALL MAGNET (OPTIONAL)
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

IF YOU USE THE STANDARD XY ENDSTOP POD FROM V2, SKIP THIS PAGE
These steps are only for printers that use either a carriage mounted X switch or
need a magnet for the x-axis hall effect endstop

X-AXIS SWITCH (TRIDENT STYLE) HALL EFFECT X-AXIS MAGNET INSTALL


This step is only if you use an X-carriage mounted switch, such as used in the Trident. Press the magnet into the hexagon shaped recess
The switch is secured with 2 screws threaded directly into the plastic. here. A hex shape is better at holding round magnets
than a round hole because the walls can flex to
The wiring is threaded under the switch, and should be zip-tied to the front when fully accommodate slightly different magnets.
assembled. For now, leave it loose.

30
INSTALL CENTER WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

TUCK BELTS BACK THROUGH SLOTS


Tuck the belts back into the center and pull them out to sides. Don’t worry if
they stick out. We’ll manage that in a later step when we put the front on.

THREAD BELT ENDS THROUGH CENTER


Make sure the belt adjustment screws on the front idlers are loosened completely.
Pull the belts taut through the center section of Tap. Secure center to X-Axis MGN
12 using 4 M3x6 BHCS. Retension the belts using the adjustment screws on the
front idlers.

Belt adjustment screw

31
INSTALL MGN9H CARRAGE WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

GENTLY SLIDE CARRIAGE ON TO RAIL


Go slow, don’t force it. If it’s difficult to
slide on, make sure the cut rail is smooth
and deburred.

32
INSTALL FRONT WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

IF YOU HAVE BELT EXCESS, TUCK.


This should be a loose tuck, leave enough of a loop that the mechanism can move.
It’s just meant to keep the belt out of the way. On both sides, of course.

(4) M3x6 BHCS


+
(4) M3 Washers

DON’T FORGET THESE WASHERS!


Without them, there is a possibility the carriage won’t be tight. Make sure these are tight.

33
TOOLHEAD INSTALL WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

EXTRUDER INSTALL
The extruder motor plate should fit tightly on top of Tap.

(2) M3x8 SHCS

34
WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM
CHECK TOOLHEAD CLEARANCE
The toolhead rear rests on the lowermost 2 screws, but must clear the four
screws that secure the front of Tap. Some toolheads may need to be carved
back to avoid hitting these screws.

CUTAWAY VIEW
In blue are the four screws and the surface that may need to be trimmed back.
CORRECT INSTALLATION
Toolhead is flat against Tap, and can be
firmly secured.

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FINAL ASSEMBLY: RELEASE THE MAGNETS WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

WITH TOOLHEAD ASSEMBLED


Loosen the 2 magnet alignment screws (one on each side). The magnets
will pull themselves into alignment with the FHCS. Give the toolhead a
little shake, then tighten these down.

With the magnets aligned and screws tightened, you should be able to
push up on the entire toolhead, and it will move 1-2 mm before hitting
it’s stop. If your sensor has an indicator light and is connected, it should
change state when you push up on the toolhead by hand.

It is important to test the tap before homing!

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MORE RESOURCES WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

ASSEMBLY COMPLETED! ... NEXT STEP: SETUP & CALIBRATION


This manual is designed to be an assembly guide for Voron Tap. Additional details about the build and
background on advanced topics can be found on our documentation page linked below.

The software setup and other initial setup steps with your new printer can also be found on our
documentation page. We recommend starting with the Tap-Klipper Instructions on our Github.

DOCS https://docs.vorondesign.com

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap

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WWW.VORONDESIGN.COM

HOW TO GET HELP


If you need assistance with your build, we’re here to help. Head on over to our Discord group and post your questions. This is our
primary medium to help VORON users. We have a great community that can help you out if you get stuck. Alternatively, you can use
our forums or subreddit.

https://discord.gg/voron

https://forum.vorondesign.com/

https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign

REPORTING ISSUES
Should you find an issue in this document or have a suggestion for an improvement please consider opening an issue on GitHub
(https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/issues).
When raising an issue, please include the relevant page numbers and a short description. Annotated screenshots are also very
welcome and helpful.
We periodically update the manual based on the feedback we get.

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