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Centennial Series Instruction Book

INSTRUCTIOS BOOK

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IndumentariaCostura
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735 views27 pages

Centennial Series Instruction Book

INSTRUCTIOS BOOK

Uploaded by

IndumentariaCostura
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
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INDEX Features and Parts ...... Needle and Thread Chart. Inserting of the Needle Winding of the Bobbin . : Threading of the Bobbin Case ... Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle Upper Threading 2.00... Straight Stitching... Setting the Stitch Length . Sewing in Reverse ......... Adjusting the Tensions .. Feeding of Fabric........ Sewing Thin or Light Weight Fabrics Darning and Monogramming .. Removing of the work ........ Setting the Needle Position . Embroidery Sewing Stitch Patterns Manuel Zigzag Stitching Blind Stitch Hem.. Sewing on Buttons Button Holes Ee eee tere Narrow Hemmer Sewing Braid...... Quilting Guide " Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide . Adjustable Cording and Zipper Foot How to Oil your Machine Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle Accessories......... 20 Cheek up for Smooth Sewing. 21 Names of Parts .......cc00- 1. 22~28 BPR FEATURES AND PARTS (Front View) HOOPNAaGAONH Thread Take-up Lever Pressure Release (Darning) Arm Thread Guides Pattern Indicator Needle Positioning Lever Zigzag Width Indicator Zigzag Width Control Bobbin Winder Spindle Hand Wheel Stitch Length Indicator Stitch Length Regulating Dial Fig. 1 12. 13. 14, 15. 1a 12 18. 19. 20. 20m 22, Drop Feed Buttons Push Button Reverse Decorative Stitch Pattern Dial Tension Regulator Needle Clamp Presser Foot Needle Plate Bobbin Cover Plate Presser Foot Thumb Screw Thread Bar and Guide Face Plate FEATURES AND PARTS (Back View) 23. Lamp Switch 24. Presser Bar Lifter 25. Thread Cutter 26. Feed 27. Head Hinge Mounting Holes 28. Spool Pins 29. Top Plate NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE Machine Silk Needle Stitches. Cotton Mercerized “or Fabric No. _PerInch Thread Thread Nylon Extremely heavy 6 TO tarpaulin, sacking, 19 to to Heavy Duty canvas, duck etc. g Ee 30 Heavy upholstery 8 30 fabric, ticking, 18 to to Heavy Duty denim, leatherette 10 , 40 Medium heavy drapery 10 40 fabric, velveteen, 16 to to Heavy Duty suiting, felt, terry etc. 4 a2, 60 ee : Medium broadcloth, 3 Bo percale, gingham, linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer 14 - a 80 A wool, shantung etc. 14 80 Sheer voile, lawn, S ae Sere ul 16 100 80 A handkerchief linen, x ray = (Plastic film) plastic film etc. 8 to 10 Very sheer chiffon, 16 100 batiste, lace, organdy, 9 to to 50 A ninon, net, marquisett’ etc, 20 180 INSERTING THE NEEDLE See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar @ to its highest point, turing hand wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp screw @) and the needle can be inserted into clamp ©. fintiside Place needle (Fig. 4, flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the Fig. 3 needle clamp screw securely with a Fig. 4 screw driver. After changing the needle make one complete revolution of the hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is in the correct position, WINDING THE BOBBIN 1, To wind the bobbin the hand wheel must be disconnected from the stitching mechanism, Hold the hand wheel with your left hand, turn the stop motion kmob toward you with your right hand. This will permit the hand wheel to tum freely while the needle bar remains motionless. The hand wheel is now disconnected for the bobbin winding operation (Fig. 5). 2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin and lead thread between the arm thread guides on the top plate. 3. Now wind the end of the thread around an empty bobbin seven or eight times and place the threaded bobbin on the spindle of the bobbin winder 4. By pressing on the bobbin winder lever, the small rubber wheel is brought into contact with the hand wheel, To lock it in position, press the bobbin winder lever until a click is heard, The bobbin winder release latch is in contact with the shaft of the bobbin. It holds the bobbin in place. 8. Now press your foot control or knee control, and when the bobbin is com- pletely full, it will be released and stop turning, detach the bobbin from the spindle, Hold the hand wheel firmly with your left hand, and with your right hand turn the stop mo- tion knob way from you until it can not be moved any farther, and the needle bar moves with the turning of the hand wheel. THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 7). Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top, Take the bobbin between thumb and forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right. Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 8, and draw it under the tension spring and into the delivery eye as shown in Fig. 9. Fig. 7 Fig. 9 PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE Open bobbin cover plate to left of the needle. See Fig. 10, Hold the bobbin case latch (0, between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread’ running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body @). Be sure the bobbin case finger @ is opposite shuttle race notch @. Press the bobbin case @) into the shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on the center post of the shuttle, THEN release the bobbin case latch @). Press bobbin case again after latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the bobbin cover plate, UPPER THREADING 1, Place spool of thread on spool pin, 2. lead thread through hole in arm thread guides, 3. down between tension discs from right to left, 4. into the check spring over tension discs, §. under thread guide bar, 6. up through thread bar, 7. up into take-up lever from right to left, 8. down through thread bar again, 9. into guide inside face plate, 10. through the needle bar thread guide, 1l.and into needle eye from left to right pulling three or four inches of thread through needle. Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 12) will be formed over the upper thread which then can be pulled out straight, Place both thread ends under the slot of the presser foot and draw toward the back of the machine, leaving both threads three or four inches long. STRAIGHT STITCHIN For straight sewing on fine fabric or very i soft material, you may want to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straight stitch needle plate which are included in your accessory box, Both have narrow needle slots. Changing the Foot and Plate. To change presser foot loosen thumb screw and re- move zigzag foot, Replace with hinged narrow foot and tighten screw securely. To change needle plate remove screws and slide the bobbin case cover and replace the zigzag needle plate with that for straight sewing, while raising the needle bar and the presser foot to their highest points. (1) First align the "SELECT" on the zigzag width control @ (Fig. 13) with the indicator, then align the manual pattern (!=) on the decorative stitch pattern dial @ with the indicator and return the zigzag width control to “O" position, (2) Set needle positioning lever @ at extreme left hand position aL”, (3) Select desired stitch length on dial ®. (4) Push the button @ and reverse stitching can be performed. SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH The length of the stitch is regulated by the stitch length regulating dial @ (Fig, 13). Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any spot between markings for a variety of lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch. STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate) Figures on indicator 0 it 2 iS 4 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 a Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 15 10 7 6 SEWING IN REVERSE When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press in button @ (Fig. 13) as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in. a ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is released when it is raised, To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn regulator (Fig. 14) to the right, To decrease, tum to the left. The higher the number on the regulator the tighter the tension. . ree Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small screw (Fig. 15) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen, When the upper and lower tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 16). When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (ig. 17). When the upper tension is too loose, the eee upper thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat under the fabric (Fig. 18). Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 FEEDING OF FABRIC The height of the feed dog may be regulated according to the thickness of the material being sewn, by proper setting of the push buttons (Fig. 19) 1, In sewing on thin materials, such as silk, creape de chine etc, push the button marked "DOWN" down as far as the red line. 2, In sewing on thick materials, such as overcoats, push the button marked "UP" down as far as it will go. 3. When it is necessary to turn the work freely as in embroidering and button sewing, push the button marked “DOWN” as far as it will go. Tighten _ Fig. 19 SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock @ (Fig. 20), and then press cap @) (Fig. 21) down again to halfway spot. Fig. 20 Fig. 21 DARNING AND MONOGRAMMING In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of free-hand embroidery, release the cap @ (Fig. 21) completely by pressing down on the snap lock ( (Fig. 20). Press "DOWN" button all the way down, which drops the feed well below the needle plate, To return feed to normal, press "UP" button, Push cap down, (Fig. 21) REMOVING THE WORK Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are located at the highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, Fig. 22 and 23, and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle, Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot, SETTING THE NEEDLE POSITION The needle bar should be at its highest point when adjusting needle position to avoid tearing the fabric or bending the needle, Set the needle positioning lever to ay right, middle or left for corresponding needle position. . ag Re Fig. 24 L Indicates the left hand needle position. M Indicates the middle needle position. R_ Indicates the right hand needle position, All straight stitching to be done using straight stitch needle plate and presser foot, The needle positioning lever must be in the left position (L). Fig. 25, ‘The needle positioning lever set in any other position will cause the needle to break, The various needle positions are used with the decorative stitch patterns and when doing creative embroidery. EMBROIDERY SEWING This sewing machine is so designed that the patterns indicated on the pattern dial can be sewn, In sewing the red patterns in the outside circle of the pattern dial the needle position of "L” is used, in sewing the blue ones in the outside circle that of “R” is used, and in sewing the green ones in the inside circle that of “M" is used, In each case the graduation “0” on the zigzag width control is aligned with the indicator. In pattern selection align your desired pattern with the indicator after select the zigzag width control to "SELECT" (Never turn the decorative stitch pattern dial clockwise from |] pattern or Fig. 26 counterclockwise from 4} pattern indicated on pattern plate.) P 19 How versatile your machine is will become apparent with practice, as just changing zigzag width control and needle positioning lever will do the following. Zigzag Width 0 1 2 | 3 4 5 sn || "AN [| HE | "|x| alsin asi | ano | rt | ANANEN | A Rly, | latin | alte | wilt | ANE | Fig. 27 Increasing the stitch length slightly will stretch the pattern, N Lawn Lith al Fig. 28 V STITCH PATTERNS ar | 2 PATTERN NEEDLE POSITION F a (0 siren | WIDTH | a . . , i NEEDLE POSTON M R m[R|L[M[R[L[™ 2 SE: SME eer eaLlgeeete 0 : ee Lid x qe) 2) ae | 2) 2 L | Seva s i je|+ P Z : i =| a 4 ; 4} 2 | (2 [ MANUAL ZIGZAG STITCHING (1) First align the “SELECT” on the zigzag width control with the indicator, @o A) ) then select manual pattern (!2) by turning the decorative stitch pattern dial and return zigzag width control at number “0” position, Set the stitch length regulating dial, the zigzag width control and needle positioning lever as you wish. ‘The varied patterns are available by changing the position of the zigzag width control and that of the needle positioning lever (Fig. 29). When the zigzag width control is manually turned as you operate the machine, such free patterns as are shown in Fig, 30. Result. The patterns available by alternately changing the needle positioning lever with the zigzag width control set to a certain width, are shown in Fig, 31. = 12 ZIGZAG wioTH NEEDLE POSITION oan ZAGZAG WIDTH Z MANUAL = OPERATION ~

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