International 420 Class Tuning Guide

Produced by Paul Eldrid

Quantum Sail Design Group WA

Congratulations on purchasing your new Quantum International 420 class

sails. These sails have been at the forefront of national and international
competition for many years and our latest designs will give you the opportunity
to sail with speed and confidence. The following guide may vary from boat to
boat and also your local conditions, but should give you a comprehensive
starting point and get you on the pace.

YOU WILL NEED -TAPE MEASURE

-LOOSE TENSION GUAGE
-PERMANENT MARKER
-PEN, PAPER, & THIS GUIDE

STEP 1. MAST STEP 2790 - 2810mm

Measurement from the inside of the transom to the pin retaining the aft of the
mast heel.

STEP 2. SPREADERS L = Is the length of the spreader from the

side of the mast to the side stay.
P = Is the Poke or deflection of the
spreaders, measured using your top
batten across the shrouds at your
spreader tips to the back edge of your
mast.

WEIGHT 115 – 125 KG

MAST TYPE L P
Proctor KAPPA 470 125
Superspar M7 460 135
Proctor STRATUS 450 145

WEIGHT 125 + KG
MAST TYPE L P
Proctor KAPPA 480 115
Superspar M7 470 120
Proctor STRATUS 465 125

STEP 3. PREPARING FOR CALIBRATION

1. Hoist the tape measure up your mast. Adjust the halyard and lock it when
the tape reads 4900mm to the top of the black band near your goose neck.
This is very important!

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2. With no chocks (CHOCK) in the mast gate, pull the rig tension (TENS) on
until it reaches approximately 40 on the Loose Gauge. Now take the tape
measure to the transom and see if it measures between 19’101/2” to 20’0”.
If not, adjust your chainplates (CHAIN) to achieve this ball park
measurement. Most chainplate fittings have 2 sets of holes, and the front
ones should be referred to as F and the back as B.

STEP 4. CALLIBRATING YOUR “HOOK”

Once done, then pull the rig tension on until you get the most upright
rake setting to suit your weight as listed below (diagram 1.2). At this
point, you should put a mark on the side of your mast where your jib
halyard connects to your rig tension system. THIS IS THE “HOOK”. From
this mark, working downwards put 4 additional marks every15mm and
working upwards an additional 5 or so. Then number each of the marks
from top to bottom. Alternately, you can use “stick on” calibrations that
many fitting companies sell.

STEP 5. CALLIBRATING YOUR RAKE & TENSION SETTINGS

Now simply work your way down each RAKE setting, recording your
CHAIN, HOOK & TENS on the draft easytune chart provided. If you
cannot achieve ball-park tensions for the rakes prescribed, you may have
to change your CHAIN until you get it right. (go down for more tension,
same rake or up for less tension, same rake)

Diagram 1.2
Weight 115 – 125kg
WIND CHAIN HOOK TENS RAKE CHOCK
0-5 F4 10 43 20’0” 0
5-12 F4 9 41 19’111/2” 6
12-15 F4 7 40 19’101/2” 5
15-20 F4 6 39 19’91/2” 4
20-25 F4 5 37 19’9” 3
25+ F4 4 36 19’81/2” 2
CHOCK
See step 6

YOU FILL IN HERE APPROXIMATE SETTINGS

Weight 125kg +
WIND CHAIN HOOK TENS RAKE CHOCK
0-5 F4 12 44 20’1” 0
5-12 F4 11 44 20’1” 6
12-15 F4 10 41 19’111/2” 6
15-20 F4 8 39 19’101/2” 5
20-25 F4 7 37 19’91/2” 4
25+ F4 6 36 19’9” 3

CHOCK
See step 6
YOU FILL IN HERE APPROX SETTINGS
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STEP 6. PREPARING TO CALLIBRATE CHOCKS

Once your settings are finalised, tip your boat on it’s side, and with your
most upright rake setting, measure the mast bend, with NO chocks at the
spreader level. This is done by placing your main halyard to your goose
neck at the aft side of the mast, and tension it. Then measure the bend
from the aft side of the mast to your halyard. You should have at least
30mm of bend with 0 Chock. If not, wind your spreaders back a little.
Remember, every boat is a little different!

STEP 7. CALLIBRATING CHOCKS FOR MAST BEND

This “0 Chock” setting at upright rake has now become your 0 – 5 knot
setting. Next, go to your 5 – 12 knot setting, and add chocks until the mast
becomes straight – 10mm of bend. Record the number of chocks on your
chart required to achieve this. From here, simply remove 1 chock for each
increasing wind range.

PLEASE NOTE – Chocks control mast bend and therefore mainsail

depth. The above settings are guides only and you may have to adapt
how much “POWER” you get from your mainsail “DEPTH”, via the
“CHOCKS” to suit your weight, sea state, wind conditions etc.

STEP 8. CALLIBRATING THE CENTERBOARD

While your boat is on it’s side, pull the centreboard all the way down. You
should notice that it is raked forward in this position. Put a mark on the
back of the C/B “handle” on the inside of the hull at this maximum down
setting and label it “8”. At 30mm increments mark another 3 settings
labelled “7, 6, 5”. Now pull it up until there is 400mm protruding under the
hull. Put a mark or draw a line on the centreboard, on the INSIDE of your
boat to record this position, and label it “4”. Repeat the process at 300mm,
200mm and 100mm.

THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO GET A FEEL FOR C/B POSITION. AS A

GUIDE: 0 – 14 KTS 8
14 - 18 KTS 7–6
18 – 22 KTS 6–5+
SETTINGS WILL CHANGE WITH CREW WEIGHT, SEA STATE,
GUSTINESS OF WIND, AND POWER IN THE RIG. TRIAL AND ERROR
WILL SEE YOU BECOME FAMILIAR WITH YOUR FAVORITE
“NUMBERS”!

STEP 9. STICK IT ON!

Simply complete your easytune chart, cover it with clear ‘contact’ or have it
laminated and stick it on the inside of your hull where it’s easy to refer to.
Don’t forget to take a copy of your numbers to add to your sailing file!

STEP 10. SAIL WITH CONFIDENCE!

This guide, along with practice should see you as fast as any other
Quantum boat on the water, and faster than our competitors!

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 SAIL SETTING AND TRIMMING TIPS

MAINSAIL

Top Batten Just tight enough to remove wrinkles from the pocket,
until over 15 knots, when it should be quite firm.

Outhaul LIGHT Firm

MEDIUM Eased a little so the foot shelf just “falls in”.
HEAVY Very tight

Cunningham LIGHT Just enough to remove major wrinkles

MEDIUM Remove most wrinkles
HEAVY Tight to very tight.

Main Sheet LIGHT Top ribbon to flow at least 50% of the time
MEDIUM Top ribbon to flow around 70% of the time
HEAVY You will be vang sheeting now, see below

Vang LIGHT Take it off the boom & clip it to the shroud
MEDIUM None, get all your leech tension through
mainsheet. Start using vang when easing
main to de power.
HEAVY Continue to pull more vang on to control
leech twist, and aid mast bend. More and
More!!!
JIB

Height The tack of the jib, when tensioned should be no higher

from the deck at the forestay fitting than 40mm.

Luff Tension Always enough to remove any wrinkles, except for very
light winds (off) and heavy wind (lots on)

Sheet Tension In nearly all but heavy winds, the jib must be not only
sheeted, but also “barber-hauled” using the windward jib
sheet to bring the sheeting angle of the jib closer inboard,
resulting in greater height and speed.
LIGHT – with crew to leeward or in the middle of the boat,
trim the jib so it is barber-hauled, with the sheet eased to
allow the leech ribbon and top leech telltales to flow.
MEDIUM – Pull the jib sheet in firm, then barber-haul very
tightly. You will now need to ease the sheet to get the
ribbon and leeward telltale to flow 90% of the time. The
crew, if on trapeze, should be able to “walk forward” and
check it out while on the wire.
HEAVY – As you vang sheet, and start easing the boom
off centreline, you should start using progressively less
barber-haul, until it’s blowing hard and your using none!

GOOD LUCK, FROM THE QUANTUM SAIL DESIGN GROUP

Where sailmaking is a performing art

INTERNATIONAL 420 CLASS
TUNING GUIDE

Where sailmaking is a performing art