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8’ x 5’ Tandem Axle Trailer

Construction Guide

Thank you for purchasing this set of plans.

I have arranged this fabrication guide to follow along with the full plan set and hope you find it easy to follow
and build your new trailer from.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me, and if you have any suggestions for improving
the plans or have any constructive feedback, I would love to hear from you.

Happy Trailering!

Bryce

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Safety
In any workshop environment, there is an ever present risk of having an accident and reducing that risk is
entirely in your hands. Having an uncluttered work area - apart from being able to find the tool or component
you require quickly & easily -, reduces the risk of a trip or fall & a potentially nasty injury. Welding leads,
extension cables, air hoses, steel or tools on the floor should be kept tidy and organised where possible.

Simple tasks like steel cutting, drilling, & grinding have the risk of cuts, burns and eye injuries. Wearing
comfortable, soft leather gloves when handling and working with steel will prevent most hand injuries and
wearing safety glasses/goggles when drilling and grinding are an absolute necessity to prevent eye injuries.

Use hearing protection whenever using cutting or grinding equipment or when hammering steel.

Always use a welding helmet even when doing a quick tack weld. An arc flash can cause painful short term and
long term eye damage. Wearing gloves while welding will prevent burns, and skin cancer from the intense UV
rays of the welding arc. Wearing the proper protective clothing (overalls, leather jacket, etc) will also help
prevent burns and skin damage.

Keep the working area clear of flammable materials (timber, paper, aerosol cans, fuel containers, paint cans,
etc), grinding and welding sparks can travel a long way. A spark can quietly smoulder away on a piece of
flammable material for hours before igniting into a fire,- do a walk around the work area before leaving for the
day and check for any potential fires. Always have a fire extinguisher at hand.

Get a mate to help you with any heavy lifting or moving of trailer components/steel work, etc, and keep
children away from the work area at all times.

Keep your tools in good condition and know how to use them correctly. Do not remove safety guards or
attachments. Do not attempt to adapt a tool or piece of machinery to do a job it wasn’t designed for. Taking
shortcuts causes accidents.

Tools & Equipment

A good level working space is required, with plenty of room to manoeuvre around the trailer as it is being built,
as well as ceiling space to allow the trailer to be turned over. The area must be clear of any flammable
materials as hot sparks from welding and grinding can travel some distance.

Fire extinguisher
Welding plant – either MIG or arc welder are suitable for welding the trailer
Welding helmet
Leather gloves
Overalls
Safety glasses/goggles
Hearing protection – earmuffs or ear plugs
Grinder – any size is suitable, but a 4” or 5” grinder is preferable. A selection of standard grinding discs, cut off
discs and flapper/sanding discs are required.
Measuring tape
Engineers' chalk
Large Square – a builder's rafter square is perfect
Trestles or stands – you can get away with a couple of trestles or stands, but it is safer and easier with 4 or
more. The higher the better (around waist height) will allow you to work without too much bending and
kneeling.
Power drill – ideally with a chuck capacity or up to 12mm or ½"

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G clamps & sand bags for securing steelwork for welding

Metal cut off saw

Welding
You do not have to be an expert welder to build your own trailer and
with practice, some lessons or guidance from an experienced welder or
an online video series, you should be able to lay a good weld in a short
time.

The most important thing about welding is getting good weld

penetration within the two pieces of steel you are joining to ensure
that they are properly joined together strongly and ideally neatly.

Too much penetration or heat in the weld, and you will blow through
the steel.

Not enough penetration and your welds will fall apart on the first bump
on the trailer's maiden journey down the road.

If you are a novice, do your research, and practice, practice and

practice. Talk to your local engineer and see if you can borrow some
scrap metal from his scrap bin and practice welding on these until you
are proficient to run welds on your trailer.

These plans do not provide detailed welding information, but do show where welds should never be put –
especially around the drawbar/chassis area. The reason for not welding around some of these areas is that the
welding has the potential to weaken the structure of the trailer and could cause structural failure of the trailer
while being used.

Be aware that poor welding also has the potential to cause the trailer structure to fail and ultimately maim or
kill while in use. If you are in any doubt about any of your trailer welds, seek advice from an experienced
welder or engineer.

Trailer Brake Regulations – NZ & Australia

New Zealand Trailer Brake Regulations
Up to 2000kg GVM
In New Zealand the braking requirements for trailers are pretty simple. For up to 2000kg load capacity or GVM
(Gross Vehicle Mass which is the trailer weight and its load combined) there is no legal requirement for brakes.
The law states that the tow vehicle and trailer must be able to stop safely within 7 metres from 30km/hr
safely.

The biggest consideration that needs to be taken is the tow vehicle's legal tow rating.

If it is only certified or recommended that the tow vehicle is rated to 750kg GVM unbraked (check your
vehicles handbook for specs) then it is unwise to tow an unbraked trailer exceeding 750kg GVM. Just
remember that you could be charged with dangerous driving if you are caught or have an accident, incurring
serious penalties as well as possibly voiding your insurance.

If you are unable to determine the towing capacity of your tow vehicle, either check with your local towbar
manufacturer, go online and check your vehicles specifications, or as a rough guide set out by the NZ Transport
Authority use the following – “the laden weight of an unbraked trailer should not exceed three quarters of the

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unladen weight of the towing vehicle and then only if the towing vehicle's brakes and tyres are in excellent
condition. A trailer heavier than this may prevent the vehicle combination from meeting the seven metre for
30km/hr brake performance requirement.”

2000 to 2500kg GVM

Between 2000 and 2500kg GVM trailers must be braked on at least one axle via either override brakes
(hydraulic coupling unit) or with cab controlled brakes (more on this later) and again must be able to stop
within 7 metres from 30km/hr. Dual crossed safety chains (see below) or an electrically operated breakaway
system is also required. Both coupling and chains are required to be rated and marked.

With the crossed chain system, if for whatever reason the trailer detaches from the tow vehicle, the chains will
support the coupling end of the trailer, and give you some semblance of control until you are safely off the
road. You may get a bit of damage to the rear of your vehicle as the trailer shunts into it, but better to have a
small repair bill than having your wayward trailer crossing the road and injuring or killing someone! Don't be
lazy when fitting your double chains - always cross them and if you do not have two mounting points on your
tow bar, get another one fitted.

Over 2500kg GVM

Trailers with a GVM over 2500kg up to 3500kg need some serious braking power and must be fitted with cab
controlled brakes (direct braking). The trailer is also required to be fitted with a breakaway system (more on
this later) and a parking brake on at least one axle which can sustain the trailer and load in position on a slope
of 1 in 5 (approx. 20 degrees).

Again the stopping within 7 metres at 30km/hr rule still applies. Safety chains are not required although
personally I like to have one fitted for peace of mind. Unless you have some very serious axle and braking
hardware under the trailer you will need to have brakes on both axles.

Over 3500kg GVM

Over 3500kg GVM falls into the realm of Heavy Transport regulations and for the most part is beyond the
scope of this website. The rules are complex and change on a regular basis. Certification is required on almost
every aspect of the trailer and requires professional engineering input from the start, and unless you have very
deep pockets, I would look at other options before progressing down this path.

Indirect Braking
Indirect braking is a braking system which uses the weight of the towed trailer to operate the brakes via inertia
through a spring dampened override coupling. The movement of the coupling applies the brakes
proportionate to the amount of travel of the spring. This inertia can be applied to mechanical and hydraulic
disc and drum brakes.

The advantages of indirect braking is that everything required for braking is self contained within the trailer
which means any vehicle can tow the trailer. It is also relatively cheap and reliable.

The disadvantage is that the trailer brakes can activate while reversing and unless the coupling is fitted with an
automatic reversing solenoid (which electrically disconnects the brakes), you will need to get out of the tow
vehicle and engage a lever to prevent the brakes from working while reversing. This leads to the risk of
accidents if the lever is not disengaged before driving forward again.

Newer style European override couplings do away with the spring dampened coupling and work on a hydraulic
damper system which does give better and more reliable braking including automatic reversing control.

You can use a trailer mounted brake controller to operated electric drum brakes. This involves adjusting a knob
on the controller to the amount of weight you are carrying on the trailer. When the tow vehicle brakes, the

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controller activates via the tow vehicle's brake lights and sends an electric current to the drum brakes
proportionate to the amount set on the knob.

This can be a little hit and miss with the adjustment and requires a bit of trial and error to get right.

Direct Braking
Direct braking is braking the trailer with full control from the tow vehicle including emergency override
braking.

There are many systems available and the most commonly used is to wire a dedicated tow vehicle with a cab
brake controller. The controller uses an electrical inertia pendulum which senses the movement of the tow
vehicle. If the tow vehicle slows or brakes, the controller will send a signal to the drum brakes to brake
proportionately. The controller is adjustable to the amount of weight being carried on the trailer and can be
adjusted whilst driving. This gives better control down steep hills and on gravel where skidding and jack knifing
of the trailer could occur.

Every trailer parts supply company has their own type of controller or system for direct braking and new
systems are coming out on a regular basis. The simpler but less convenient systems are normally reasonably
priced and the more complex but more convenient systems can set you back a small fortune.

Breakaway Brakes
Breakaway brake units are designed to immediately
apply full braking power to the trailer brakes should
the trailer separate from the tow vehicle.

On electric braked trailers, the breakaway unit is

basically a on/off switch box fitted with a removable
pin which is attached to a tether cable.

The box is mounted on the trailer drawbar and the tether fitted to the tow vehicle with a shackle or hook.

A small rechargeable battery on board the trailer supplies power to the breakaway box and when the pin is
pulled from the box (when the trailer comes away from the tow vehicle) full power is instantly applied to the
brakes.

Power is supplied to the brakes until the on board battery runs out of juice or the pin is re-fitted to the
breakaway box.

It does pay to regularly check the battery charge especially when the trailer is infrequently used. If this is the
case, remove the battery and charge it on a mains charger before any trips. Also check that the tow vehicle is
charging the battery when plugged into the trailer.

To check if the breakaway unit and battery are working correctly, immobilize the trailer and jack the wheels
up. Pull the breakaway pin while a mate spins the wheels. They should lock up immediately.

The breakaway tether needs to be attached to the tow vehicle and not to the chains, the chains will not pull
the breakaway pin out if the trailer decides to part company. Likewise the tether needs to be in good condition
and needs to be replaced if kinked, frayed or damaged. If the damaged section fails before the breakaway pin
can be pulled, the brakes will not come on.

Breakaway brakes should not be used as a park brake as the battery will quickly lose its charge and the brakes
will release.

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Australian Trailer Braking Regulations

Light trailer braking regulations in Australia for trailers up to 4500kg ATM are relatively straight forward

Up to 750kg GTM
Trailers with a 750kg GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) do not require brakes but do require a least one safety chain
that is rated and complies with AS 4177.4-1994 or AS 4177.4-2004 and have shackles to match.

750kg up to 2000kg GTM

Trailers over 750kg GTM up to 2000kg GTM, must have working brakes on at least one axle. Over-run or surge
brakes (see indirect braking above) can be used up to 2000kg GTM and the trailer must have at least one rated
chain or cable as per the standards above.

2000kg to 2500kg
For all trailers over 2000kg GTM, all wheels must have operational brakes. Over-run or surge brakes are not
permitted. Independent Electric Brakes or power assisted hydraulic brakes are allowed. These must be driver
controlled by either hand or foot. A breakaway brake system is required to be fitted (see above). If the trailer
does detach from the towing vehicle, the brakes must remain applied for at least 15 minutes.

Over 2500kg ATM

For all trailers over 2500kg ATM up to 4500kg ATM, all wheels must have operational brakes. Over-run or
surge brakes are not permitted. Independent Electric Brakes or power assisted hydraulic brakes are allowed.
These must be driver controlled by either hand or foot. A breakaway brake system is required to be fitted (see
above). If the trailer does detach from the towing vehicle, the brakes must remain applied for at least 15
minutes. Up to 2500kg ATM, the trailer must be fitted with at least one rated chain or safety cable as per the
standard above.

Over 2500kg and up to 3500kg ATM, the trailer must have two rated safety chains as per the standard.
Trailers over 3500kg up to 4500kg ATM need two safety chains with a minimum breaking stress of 800MPa
and must conform to the mechanical properties of a Grade T chain (short link lifting chain) and must be sized
so that the minimum breaking strain exceeds 4500kg ATM.

Chains & Shackles – NZ & Australian Regulations

Chains and shackles are important components in the safety of your trailer and should not be overlooked or
given the attitude that any chain and shackle will do.

There are so many trailers in this country running with an old bit of chain left over from some long forgotten
job and an even smaller D shackle that lost its original pin many years ago and is held in place with a bolt or
screw that only just fits.

If in the unfortunate circumstances that your trailer decides to leave the comfort of your vehicles tow bar at
90km/hr, you have a trailer barreling full blast down the road un-guided and unhindered into any poor soul
that may be on the road at the same time.

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Poorly chained and shackled trailers do come loose and do

kill and maim people.

On trailers up to 2000kg GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass - trailer

tare weight and load combined) only one chain is legally
required. According to the NZ Code of Practice, the chain
needs have a breaking strength of at least 4000kg. The
rating on the chain and shackle is normally the safe working
load rating and has a much higher breaking strength. If
unsure, check with your supplier on this before purchasing .

On trailers with a GVM between 2000kg and 2500kg, double crossed chains are required.

Trailers over 2500kg to 3500kg are required by law to have a "break away" braking system in place and safety
chains are not required. Personally, I like to have at least one chain fitted as well for peace of mind.

NZ Code of Practice NZS5467:1993

The code of practice for chains and shackles in New Zealand are as follows –

1. Safety connection(s) shall have a minimum breaking strength equal to 2 times the maximum towed mass.

(If you are towing a trailer with a combined tare weight and load of 2000kg, you are required to have chains
with a combined minimum breaking strain of 4000kg)

2. The safety connection(s) attachments shall have a strength equal to, or greater than the safety connection.

(Any bolts or other forms of connection of the chain and shackle to the trailer or tow vehicle, need to be rated
as strong or stronger than the safety chain and shackles)

3. The attachment of the safety connection(s) to both the towbar and drawbar shall be separate from the
coupling and its fastenings.

(Do not use the coupling bolts to bolt your safety chain to the trailer)

4. The safety connection(s) shall be mechanically fitted as close as is practicable to the longitudinal centre line
and of such length that in the event of coupling failure, it will prevent the drawbar hitting the ground as well as
controlling the direction of the trailer to follow the towing vehicle.

(Attach the chain as close as practical to the coupling and keep the chain as short as practical without
interfering with full lock steering)

5. Welding of the chain is not acceptable.

(Use a high tensile bolt and safety chain mounting washer to attach your chain to the drawbar – also keep any
holes drilled in the drawbar at least ½ to ¾ the length of a chain link from the outside edge)

6. The safety connection(s) shall be indelibly marked by the component manufacturer with their rating. The
rating shall enable the minimum breaking strain of the components to be identified.

(Both chains and shackles need to have the manufacturers rating either stamped or cast into their surface.
Note that some chains have the rating stamped every couple of links)

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Australian Safety Chain & Shackle Regulations

All safety chains on trailers up to 3500kg ATM, must be permanently attached to the trailer by either bolting or
welding, the use of shackles to attach the chain to the drawbar is not permitted.

If the chain is to be welded, the weld must extend around 50% of the link and the adjoining link must have free
movement.

For trailers over 3500kg ATM, the safety chain/drawbar attachment must not be welded or have the chain
deformed in any way.

The safety chain attachment must be located as near as practicable to the coupling and where there are 2
attachment points, they are required to be mounted on either side of the centreline of the drawbar.

Australian Standard AS 2741-2002 for Shackles

For trailers up to 3500kg ATM shackles are required to be

1. The shackle is required to be rated and comply with the Australian Standard AS 2741-2002 “Shackles” or
other equivalent recognised standard

2. The break load limit of the shackle is rated at least 1.5 times greater than the ATM of the trailer.
(If you trailer has an ATM of 1000kg, the break load limit needs to be at least 1500kg)

3. Shackles need to be legibly and permanently marked with the following information.
A. The manufacturer's name or trademark;
B. Quality grade of the shackle, e.g. (“M” or “4”, “S” or “6”);
(Grade “M” or “4” shackles are around 20% stronger than their mild steel counterparts and are normally
recognised by the pin having a larger diameter than the shackle material. “M” shackles are not so common
now as they have been superseded by the stronger “S” shackle. Grade “S” or “6” shackles again have a larger
diameter pin which is normally painted to differentiate from lower strength shackles. Grade “S” or “6” are
higher in strength than the “M” or “4” grade although have less ductility. They tend to be smaller than the “M”
or “4:” shackles for their respective ratings.
C. Working Load Limit (WLL) or Rating; and
D. Identification marking in order to correlate shackle to test certificate.

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SHACKLE SIZING GUIDE

Nominal Shackle Working Load Breaking Load Grade

Size (mm) (kg) (kg) Marking

5 330 1987 S or 6
6 250 1508 M or 4
6 500 3007 S or 6
8 750 4505 S or 6
10 500 3007 M or 4
10 1000 6004 S or 6
11 1500 9001 S or 6
13 750 4505 M or 4
13 2000 12040 S or 6
16 1500 9010 M or 4
16 3200 19285 S or 6
19 2000 12040 M or 4
19 4700 28265 S or 6

Disclaimer
Trailersauce has taken care to ensure that all plans are accurate, of sound design and comply with New
Zealand Standards & with Australian Design Rules (VSB1). These plans are offered as a guide to assist with the
construction of the described trailer. It is ultimately the builder/owners responsibility to ensure that the trailer
is of sound construction, complies with New Zealand & Australian transport regulations, is legally registered for
road use and maintained in serviceable condition. Trailersauce takes no responsibility for any injury, accident
or losses that may occur as a result of any trailer built using these plans.

By using any plans or instructions, you agree that Trailersauce cannot be liable for any misuse or faulty
workmanship of the final product. The plans are to be used only as guidelines and to aid in the assembly of the
final product.

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An 8' x 5' tandem trailer is one of the workhorses of New Zealand trailers, it is one of the most popular sizes
due to its strength and versatility. Without brakes this trailer is rated at 2000kg GVM and 2500kg GVM with
brakes.

With its load sharing, oscillating suspension, it can carry large and awkward loads with ease and comfort
especially in the case of carting animals around. Great for farmers, builders and contractors, or anyone who
requires a larger trailer, the 8' x 5' tandem can do it all.

Specifications -
- Deck Size 2440mm x 1530mm (8' x 5')
- Tandem axle 14" wheels
- Load Sharing Rocker Suspension
- Fully welded steel chassis
- Steel panel sides/tailgates
- Hinging front and rear tailgate
- Full length tie rails
- 17mm Plywood decking (options available)
- 2500kg GVW/GTM (can be upgraded if required)
- Tare Weight 370kg
- Maximum load capacity 1630kg unbraked, 2130kg braked (NZ)
- Maximum load capacity 380kg unbraked, 2130kg braked (Australia)
- Brakes optional (See Legal Braking information at the beginning of this guide)

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Note about plywood decking

If you are using plywood for decking material, please check with your local suppliers for true 8' x 4' sheet sizes
(2440 x 1220mm) as these can be difficult to source. The design below is for a true 8' (2440mm) trailer and if
2440mm sheets are unavailable, you will need to compensate by reducing the chassis rails, side panels and
side tie rails by 40mm. All other measurements will be the same as shown. The trailer will be a true 5'
(1530mm) wide.

For other decking options see http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/equipment/trailer-decking/

NOTE -If are contemplating galvanising your trailer it pays to do a bit of prep work on your cross members
prior to welding. Please check the Pre-Finishing section below, prior to starting.

Parts, Materials & Cutting List

The following cutting list uses standard metric and imperial size steel sections and should be readily available.
All parts and componentry is also standard and should be available from most trailer part suppliers.

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CHASSIS

Cut all the chassis rails and crossmembers as per the drawing below. Drill the crossmembers as shown. The
holes in "Detail A" are drain holes for galvanising and can be omitted if the trailer is to be painted. "Detail B"
holes are for both galvanising drainage and cable routing and should be drilled.

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Get your local engineering workshop to fold up the light channel as per the details below. At a pinch you could
weld the light channel using individual steel sections. Clamp well and stagger your welding to prevent the light
channel buckling and bending.

Chassis Setup
Lay your chassis rails with the widest sides together and clamp. Mark one end of the chassis rails with 'F' for
front of trailer and use this as your point for your measurements.

Divide the length of the chassis rails so that the cross members will are at approximately 480mm centres. Mark
the chassis rails with the required measurement and a second mark 25mm further on. This marks the front
and back position for the cross members. Using a square mark across both the chassis rails and unclamp.

On a flat surface or trestles lay the chassis rails parallel with each other and lay the cross members and the
light channel (see detail shown below in finished position - flip upside down when setting up the chassis as
below) in the right positions and as square as reasonably possible

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Tack weld all the components together with one or two welds and measure across the trailer frame diagonally
for squareness. Both measurements need to be taken from the same point of the chassis as each other and
the frame will be square once both measurements are exactly the same.

Adjusting an out of square chassis frame

Where one measurement is longer, divide the difference between the two measurements and gently knock
the longest corner of the frame to match the shortest side plus the difference in measurement – for example –
if the shortest reading is 3095mm and the longest is 4015, the difference between the two is 20mm. Divide
this in half- 10mm then knock the longest corner so your tape reads 3095mm plus 10mm (4005mm) Re-
measure and keep adjusting the frame until both measurements are exactly the same. Once the frame is
square, you will need to clamp or sandbag the frame to prevent any movement while the frame is being
welded.

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Work your way around the frame welding all the components together. If you have welded the frame on the
floor of the workshop, lay a couple of good welds on all the components and lift the frame up onto your
trestles or stands, recheck the frame squareness and finish welding of the frame.

Spring Setup
Divide the chassis length in half and mark the chassis rails, then accurately measure where you want the spring
centres to be - ideally 50mm back from the centre of the chassis. Double check your measurements.

Set up your suspension rocker so the main rocker bolt centre is lined up with the suspension offset you have
marked and clamp in position. Set up the front spring in its hanger and fit to the rocker unit. Adjust the spring
so that the tail of the spring can move freely when the rocker oscillates without binding or dropping out.

Bolt the rear spring into the rocker unit

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Make sure that the outside spring edges are flush with the outside
edge of the chassis rail and once double checked, tack weld the
spring hanger and suspension rocker to the chassis rail.

Once this is completed on both sides, position the slippers over the
spring tails allowing for clearance between the spring and the slipper
for the spring to move in and out when loaded.

Again, make sure the outside edge of the spring is flush with the outside edge
of the chassis and tack weld the slipper in place.

Where the spring components are unsupported fully along the chassis rails, you
will need to cut a couple of packers to support the overhang of these parts and
weld into position.

Once all components are in position, remove the springs and fully weld
around the hanger, rocker, slipper and packers.

AXLES

Getting the required axle measurements to your axle manufacturer as soon as possible will reduce the waiting
time while your axle is being fabricated

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Firstly, we need to clamp the guard approximately around the area where it is to go. If you are unable to clamp
the guard or if the clamps will not hold, tack weld the guard on.

Position your tyre and rim inside the guard and line up the outside of the tyre flush with the rim of the guard,
both vertically and horizontally. If you are pushed for room within the guard, you can move the tyre out so that
the start edge of the tyre tread is flush with the guard.

Once the tyre is in position, measure from the inside hub mounting surface of the rim, to the outside edge of
the spring. If your springs are set up correctly this will be the same measurement as the outside edge of the
chassis. We'll call this measurement "A".

Measure your chassis width across the central part of your chassis for measurement "B". The Hub to Hub face
measurements will be measurement "A" x2 (doubled) added to measurement "B".

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Measuring between the spring centre bolt centres will give you the spring centres "C". Another way to get this
is to measure your chassis width "B" and subtract the width of one spring.

These measurements should be all that is needed to get the axle manufacturer started. If you are going for a
different style axle (ie, stepped or dropped axle) then further measurements will be required.

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Drawbar Components

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Fitting the Drawbar

Lay the two drawbar sections down the centre of the trailer parallel with the chassis rails with the long edge
vertical. Take one section and slide the inside end around till the inside edge is resting against the inside
upright of the spring hanger and tack weld in position.

Repeat with the second section and then take the protruding sections and work them gently until the inside
edges are together and tack weld. At this point it is a good idea to double check that the drawbar is central and
to do this take a couple of measurements from the same point on the drawbar diagonally back to a point on
the chassis in a couple of positions and check that both measurements from each side match. If not you will
need to recheck the position of the spring hangers and the lengths of the drawbar sections. If needed
reposition the hangers or grind the drawbar to suit.

At this point you can weld up the drawbar in all the downhand and vertical positions. Do not under any
circumstances weld across the horizontal faces on the drawbar where it intersects the crossmembers as
shown below. See here for more detail - http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/information/draw-bar-design/drawbar-
welding/

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TOPSIDE
Double check all the welds on the drawbar and chassis and grind/buff any sharp burrs and edges before
flipping the trailer right way up.

Sit the chassis on your stands or trestles and run an eye along the length of the chassis frame and check that
the frame is level and straight. Any extreme twisting of the frame will need to be heat shrinked to correct
before continuing. Twisting or bending of the frame normally occurs when there has been too much heat
applied through welding on a poorly clamped chassis.

To correct any major twisting, weld up the top of the chassis where the welds are missing (don't weld along
the front chassis crossmember and drawbar), recheck any twisting and mark where the centre of any bending
is occurring. Using a oxy/acetylene/propane torch heat the side that needs to be shrunk and once nice cherry
red, quench quickly with cold water. This will cause the steel to change structure and shrink hopefully
correcting the problem.

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DRAWBAR ANGLES
Where the drawbar meets the front crossmember, fit a piece of angle 40 x 5mm approximately 100mm long
over the exposed section and weld around the angle on the crossmember (Never weld across the top of the
drawbar) and a couple of welds under the angle where the top edge of the drawbar meets. Round off the
outside edges to prevent any injury to your shins.

The angle will give the drawbar and chassis a stronger and stiffer structure at this point.

LIGHTING CONDUIT
Once all the welds have been laid, cut short sections of pipe(15NB or similar) or small box section (25 x 25mm)
around 40mm long and run these down one side of one of the chassis rails at regular intervals of around 200-
300mm apart from the inside end of the drawbar back, and also along the back of the light channel. These
pieces of pipe will be your conduit for running your lighting cable along the trailer and will support and protect
the cable.

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DECK JOINER
If you are using sheet decking like plywood or alloy/steel sheets, you may need to run a deck joiner down the
length of the chassis. This is to support both edges of the sheets if the sheet is narrower than the width of the
required deck. For example, if you have a 1530mm wide deck (5ft) and your sheets of plywood are only
1200mm wide, you will need to have support under the sheet between the crossmembers for both the
1200mm wide sheet and the 330mm wide sheet.

Deck joiners can be offcuts of 50 x 25mm RHS laid between the crossmembers with the widest section facing
up to a length of folded panel steel in a 'u' section notched and welded along the length of the trailer making
sure that the centre of the deck joiner is where the cut edge of the sheet will be.

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COUPLING PLATE

With the trailer right way up we can weld on the coupling plate. Ideally the plate will be 10-12mm thick for a
standard lever style coupling and pre drilled to the coupling hole profile.

Position the coupling plate over the end of the drawbar so it extends 10-20mm over the end and centre and
square it to the chassis before tacking. Check through the coupling plate holes that if there is enough clearance
for the coupling bolts (including enough room to turn the nuts) to be fitted inside the "A" frame section of the
drawbar. Adjust the coupling plate position if required.

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Fit the coupling loosely and check that the lever operates correctly.

Take a couple of quick diagonal measurements back to the chassis to check the coupling plate is aligned and
lay some good welds along each side of the coupling plate as well as a couple of welds under the coupling
plate on the drawbar front.

Drill through the coupling plate holes into the top of the drawbar where required.

Australian Trailer Builders -

Now is a good time to fit the safety chain to the trailer - the safety chain must be permanently attached to the
trailer (welded) and the weld must extend around 50% of the circumference of the welded link and the
adjoining link must have free movement.

Weld the safety chain as near as practicable to the coupling. If fitting 2 chains, they must be mounted either
side of the centreline of the drawbar. See the beginning of this guide for more information.

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Side Fabrication

The side profile is designed to give good strength to the trailer while keeping the weight to a minimum, lighter
panel may be used but there may be issues with buckling of the panel when welded.

Using the chassis as a bench, set up the end uprights flush with the ends of the chassis and fit the top tie rail
between them.

Tack weld bits together. Place a couple of bits of scrap steel or wood and clamp flush under the ends of the
chassis to support the uprights while tacking in place. Make sure uprights are flush with the ends of the chassis
and level with the underside of the chassis rails.

Check uprights are square with the chassis and clamp into position.

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Fit panel into frame and adjust so that the panel is flush with the inside of the uprights and sitting on the
chassis rail. Clamp the panel down onto the chassis rail and tack weld onto the uprights.

Unclamp and lay the frame and panel onto the chassis, flip over so that the side with the panel flush with the
uprights is facing up, clamp to the chassis and fully weld where the panel and the end uprights meet. It is only
necessary to weld the inside face with a nice light weld, to prevent blow through and buckling of the metal,
but enough to join the two pieces together.

Clamp the side back into position on the chassis and clamp fully along the inside lip of the panel/chassis rail.

GUARDS

To find the correct position of the mudguard, fit the axle to the springs loosely, dry assemble the bearings and
hubs and fit the wheels to the hubs.

Place an offcut of timber or steel around 40-50mm thick on top of the tyre and lower the guard onto this.
Stand back and check the clearance around the front and rear. The guard can be pulled open if needed to
allow for a better fit. Whatever measurement you pulled the guard out to, make sure that the other guard
matches.

The guard needs to have roughly equal clearance at the front, top and rear, but pays to give a little extra at the
top to compensate for spring movement.

Once the guard is in the correct position, tack weld the guard in position (another set of hands is
recommended), and then stand back and check the guard and how it looks.

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If the guard doesn't look quite right, now is the time to adjust it.

When happy with the guard position, mark out the position of the central upright and break the tack welds.

Using a grinder with a cutting blade, notch out the guard to fit the centre uprights.

GUARD GUSSETS
Guard gussets provide a couple of necessary functions, firstly to give the guard strength and support especially
as the guards are normally the first things to get knocked around. Secondly they function as a step onto
and into the trailer. Be wary of using a piece of rod or pipe to brace the guard, slip on this, when you are
climbing into the trailer, you are likely to break your leg if you fall between the brace and the trailer.

When fabricating the gussets, ensure you make 2 pieces as per the drawing and 2 pieces with the lip folded
the opposite direction. The drainage cut out is to help prevent debris and water settling causing corrosion.

When fitting, make sure the gusset is square with the side and flush with the underside of the chassis rail. This
is another job where a spare pair of hands is useful. An out of square gusset is very noticeable so take care
getting it right.

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Once everything is tack welded in position and looking right, stitch weld along the outside of the trailer along
where the panel and chassis rail meet. A 50mm stitch weld with a 100mm gap is perfect. It is not necessary to
weld the panel on the inside of the trailer.

Stitch weld both sides of the centre uprights, around the topside of the guards and gussets and fully weld all
visible joins around the top portion of the centre uprights.

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TIE HOOKS
You can fit as many tie hooks to your trailer as you like and some say the more the merrier. Practically you only
require four to six tie hooks on each side, and as long as they are strong and can accommodate good sized
rope, there is little else you need.

Tie hooks can be made by rolling a piece of rod around a former in a vice and cutting to size. The easiest tie
hooks are made from chopping off the end of chain links.

To prevent your rope chaffing, make sure all surfaces and edges of the tie hooks are smooth.

Weld the tie hooks with good strong welds to the chassis rail and the centre uprights.

GUARD BRACES
The guard brace provides addtional support to the guard, especially with all the knocks and abuse guards tend
to put up with. Postion the brace at the base of the central upright and up on an angle to the inside of the
guard at the outside edge. Cut or grind the brace to the correct length and shape the ends to give good
contact with the upright and the guard. Fully weld in position.

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Tailgate Fabrication

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Setting up the tailgates is similar to the sides but care needs when welding to prevent the tailgates from
twisting. Use the drawbar as a clamping table if you have no other suitable surface.

Position the angle uprights at either end of the tie rail as per the drawing, square the uprights to the tie rail
and tack weld.

Mark the centre of the panel on the top lip and drill a hole to suit the rod centre support. Mark the bottom lip
to help line the rod up when in position.

Fit the panel with the lips facing upwards, between the uprights and flush at the bottom. Tack weld panel to
the uprights.

Slide in the rod centre support, line up with the bottom mark and tack weld into position.

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Clamp a piece of flat bar across the top of the tailgate lip and place a hinge pipe underneath. This will ensure
the hinge pipe is flush with the top of the lip. Adjust the hinge pipe until it is flush with the outside edge of the
angle upright and tack into position. Repeat with the other outer hinge pipe and centralise the centre hinge
pipe and tack into position.

Fully weld the hinge pipes and the upper and lower lips as shown

Stitch weld the centre rod and angle uprights to the panel as shown below.

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TAILGATE HINGE COMPONENTS

HANGING THE TAILGATES

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Position the tailgate onto the trailer so that the top of the tailgate is flush with the top of the trailer sides.
Clamp into position and slowly adjust the tailgate so that the difference in width between the tailgate and the
uprights is even.

Slide the gudgeons into the hinge pipes until there is a little resistance. Do not force the gudgeon into the pipe
as this may cause the tailgate to jam when operating.

Level the gudgeon to the tailgate and tack weld onto the light channel/front cross member.

Once all gudgeons have been tack welded, unclamp the tailgate and check its operation.

The tailgate should operate smoothly up and down and if it jams up, find the culprit hinge/gudgeon and adjust
as needed.

Once the tailgate is functioningn correctly, remove the tailgate and fully weld the gudgeons in place. It does
pay to mark each tailgate with a spot of weld so there is no confusion when fitting the tailgates at a later date,
especially if the trailer is to be galvanised.

Repeat the process with the other tailgate.

TAILGATE LATCHES
We have go back to the end uprights on the sides to fit the droplock tubes. Measure down 110mm from the
top of the upright and mark on all four corners.

Place the droplock tube against the side of the upright with the top of the tube level with the line. Tack weld
the tube into position and check it for square and fully weld - beware, the tubes are thin, so use a nice fast run
with minimal heat in the weld.

Carry on around the trailer until all four corners are complete. Once cool, fit the droplock/antiluce locks to the
tubes.

Raise and clamp the tailgate in the up position and place the latch plate centrally over the droplock/antiluce
locks. Tack weld the latch plate to the tailgate.

Remove the tailgate once both latch plates are tacked in place and fully weld.

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GALVANISING AND PAINTING PREPARATION

Depending on the type of finish you are planning for your trailer, there are a couple of things that need to be
done prior to either. If you are planning on galvanising your trailer, see here -
http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/information/galvanising/

For painting information , see - http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/information/painting/

If you are painting your trailer, you will need to drill drain holes in the tailgates as shown below to allow rain
water to drain from the tailgate.

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With either option, go over the trailer with a hand grinder with a flapper disc attached and clean any burrs,
sharp edges, left over welding slag and spatter. Remove any paint, crayon or grease that may be on the trailer
with an alcohol or solvent based cleaner.

Use a square or rat tail file to remove any burrs from inside the box section uprights, drawbar and chassis rails,
including the tailgates.

Galvanising drain holes are extremely important

to ensure that your trailer is fully coated with
galvanising, inside and out, and to prevent your
trailer deforming when in the galvanising bath.

The cross members ideally should have been pre-

drilled prior to the chassis being welded, but if
not now is the time to do this. Two holes at least
7mm in diameter (10mm holes are ideal for the
cable side of the trailer to allow the cable to pass
through) must be drilled on one side of the
vertical face of the cross members at each end.
One hole needs to be drilled on the underside of
the cross member at each end.

Wherever a piece of hollow section (SHS or RHS)

is blocked, it requires drilling. The tie rails along
the sides require a hole drilled through both
sides at the junction with the end uprights.

The side panel requires holes drilled on the top

where it meets the end and centre uprights (see
pictures below)

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Drill holes in the light channel as shown above to prevent galvanising from building up around this area.

Holes also need to be drilled in the top of the centre uprights, just under the tie rail. At the bottom of the
centre uprights, there needs to be a partial opening at least the size of a 7mm diameter hole or bigger. If not
drill the underside of the guard gusset into the upright opening.

Lastly the deck joiner sections need to be drilled with two holes on the underside and one hole on the side
passing all the way through. This needs to be done on both ends of each section.

Some galvanisers require the guard to be drilled in a couple of places where it meets the panel - Check with
them prior to drilling even more holes in your trailer.

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Drawbar Drilling
Determine where you require your chain to be bolted to the drawbar and drill a hole to suit your mounting
bolt. A good position is approximately 50mm back from the front of the drawbar and at least 1/2 a chain link
length up from the underside. If you are galvanising, drill the hole oversize by about 1mm to allow for
galvanising build up.

You will need to have your light cable and rubber grommet to measure up for the light cable exit hole on top
of the drawbar. Position this behind the coupling and centrally on the top of the drawbar. Again drill the hole
slightly oversize to allow for the galvanising build up.

You can pre-drill for your lights and number plate if you have these to hand. Most new lights will come with a
drilling template or guide

LIGHTS & WIRING

NOTE - Before doing any cable fitting, it is advisable that the trailer is fully prepared and painted or galvanised
and at the bare minimum, has a primer coat applied.

Running the light cable

From the front of the trailer, slide a semi-rigid section of mild steel "pull" wire down the drawbar until it comes
out at the spring end. Tape the trailer 5 core cable (seven core if you are fitting electric brakes) to the end of
the "pull" wire and pull from the spring hanger end until the cable comes through.

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Gently pull the cable through until you have a good length that will reach along the length of the trailer and
across the rear light channel. Allow another 300-400mm extra of cable to play with.

Allow another 600mm extra at the coupling end of the drawbar for wiring into your plug.

Drill through any cross members not already drilled to allow the cable to be threaded through. Thread the
cable from the spring hanger end of the drawbar, through the conduits and cross members until you reach the
position of your first light. Add on an extra 150mm of cable and cut.

Thread the left over cable through the conduits along the light channel to the second light.

Fitting Lights
Make sure that your number plate light is in the correct position and that the light will shine on the plate. Keep
your lights as wide as possible in the light channel, but do not place lights directly behind the rod bracing.

Mark out your light position on the light channel and drill the mounting and cable holes as per your lights
instructions or template

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There are a couple of ways of joining the wire together

behind the left hand light. Using a strip connector inside a
sealed junction box is one of the best ways of keeping the
join secure and weather tight and also gives the option of
easily changing lights should they get damaged, etc.

Other options include soldering the wires together and

sealing with insulation tape and a heat shrink tube or using
crimp connectors and covering again with heat shrink tube.
These options take less time to do than the first option, but
will cause a bit of a headache when maintenance needs to be
done at a later date.

If you go down the junction box route, secure the box to the chassis rail directly behind the light channel.

SIDE MARKER LIGHTS

For side marker lights, an additional two lengths of 2 core cable need to be run from the
junction box, up through the conduit to the spring hanger. Take one cable under the chassis
rail and behind the front of the guard. "P" clip (see photo) the cable in appropriately hidden
positions to prevent the cable from being snagged by either the tyre or debris flung up
from the road. For the other cable you need to "P" clip one cable along the cross member
to the right hand spring hanger and again take under the chassis rail up to the light
position. Drill the appropriate holes for mounting the light and for the cable to pass
through the guard.

Crimp connectors are the most convenient method for joining the wires to sealed lights
with attached wiring.

PLUG
Pass the plug end cable through the cable hole drilled in the top or side of the drawbar and slide a suitable
sized rubber grommet over the cable to prevent any chafing of the cable where it passes through the drawbar.

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Trim the length of cable so that the cable can move with the trailer behind the tow vehicle without being
stretched or kinked, but not too long that it will dangle too close to the ground.

Slide any plug sleeve or nut, that came with the plug, over the cable,
then strip each end of the plug wires leaving approximately 10mm bare
wire, fold the bare cable in half and enter them into the plug
connector in the correct sequence as per the chart above. Tighten the
screws snugly but do not over-tighten. Screw the cable clamp down to
prevent the cable from pulling out and fit any sleeves, nuts or covers
that came with the plug.

If possible, check all your lights by hooking the trailer plug up to your tow vehicle. If you don't have a mate to
help you check your brake lights, grab a mirror and position it behind the trailer where you can see it from the
tow vehicle.

AXLE FITTNG

Now is a good time to fit the springs and axle to the trailer as this is the last time you will be able to work on
your trailer running gear without having to get on your back.

Hub Fitting
Prepare a very clean surface and hand pack your bearings with grease, take your time, the more you can work
the grease into the bearings the better.

Over a clean axle, slide the seal retaining washer and seal onto the axle shoulder. Fit the larger inner back end
bearing into the hub and tap on the seal wear ring. Grab a good handful of grease and apply it to the inside of
the hub and slide the hub over the axle until the back bearing rests against the axle shoulder and seal.

Check that the seal is fitted into the hub and slide the smaller front end outer bearing into the hub.

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Fit the washer and castle nut and tighten the nut up until resistance is felt. Give the nut a quick nip and then
back off approximately 1/4 of a turn or until the slot in the castle nut lines up with the hole in the axle.

Check that the hub rotates freely and fit the split pin through the castle nut and axle and twist to lock in place.

Tap on the dust cap and repeat for the other hub.

Axle
Position the front spring tails into the suspension rocker and lift the other end up into the spring hanger and
bolt into position. Lift the rear springs into the slipper and then lift up and bolt into the suspension rocker unit.

Slide the axle from one side of the trailer, over the spring through so it rests on both springs. Align the spring
centre bolts with the holes drilled in the axle. Bolt axles to the springs with "U" bolts and spring plates.

If you have braking hubs, you will need to fit the axles to the springs prior to lifting and bolting the springs into
position.

When tightening the "U" bolt nuts, it pays to tighten each nut a little at a time, working your way around the
four nuts.

DECKING
Plywood decking is a versatile and hard wearing decking material. It is relatively cheap and easy to replace if it
gets damaged. Plywood normally has two graded faces, with one face being better than the other. For other
decking options, see http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/equipment/trailer-decking/

For trailer purposes a "CD" grade of plywood is more than suitable. It does pay to handpick your plywood from
the merchant if possible, as there may be a few imperfections that pass the "C" grade but would look un-
slightly on your trailer.

Before positioning your plywood on the trailer, mark the positions of your cross member centres along the
side of the trailer above the level of where the plywood will sit.

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Lay your the main sheet of plywood against the side furthest from the deck joiner, adjust the sheet so that it is
level with the front crossmember and rear light channel. Clamp sheet into position.

Measure the gap in the deck for the remaining sheet (double check measurements at both ends and in the
centre of the trailer) and cut the second sheet to fit.

Lay this in position with the mill edge (the uncut edge) against the first sheet of plywood and clamp into
position.

With a string line or a straight edge, mark the sheet across the width from the marks on the side panels.

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Mark out evenly across the lines spacing the hole centres at approximately 200mm apart both along the cross
member marks and down the outer edges and the join.

Fastenings
There are a couple of options for fastening your deck to your chassis. Rivets have
been used for many years, but after a couple of years of carting loads around,
rivets tend to fail and pop out. By far the best option is self tapping countersunk
screws and if you have a good grunty electric hand drill, this job will not take long.
For a 17 to 19mm deck thickness, 8G x 25mm screws are ideal. A 3.5mm hole
needs to be predrilled and then the screws can be driven in by either hand or with
the electric drill and screw attachment.

It pays to start at one end of the trailer and work your way down to the other end
to prevent any buckling of the deck.

As with all timber, the plywood deck will swell and shrink depending on how
wet or dry the environment is, and you may find over time, the occasional screw
breaking from this action on the deck. If this does happen, increase the size of
the replacement screw to a 10G x 25mm.

Once the deck is screwed down, give the deck a good going over with an orbital sander to take off any high
spots.

FINISHING

Fit your chosen coupling to the trailer using 3/8" UNF bolts and lock nuts or larger if required. It may be a bit of
a squeeze getting the nuts from within the drawbar sections and a bit of grease on your spanner may help hold
the nut in place while you turn the bolt.

Check that the coupling is centrally aligned before tightening up securely.

Fit the chain and shackle to the drawbar using a chain washer and high tensile bolt.

Fit a plug holder if required on the drawbar to keep the plug out of harms way while the trailer is in storage.

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Fit the drop locks to the front and rear trailer uprights and bolt up securely and fit the tailgates.

Double check your spring hanger bolts and "U" bolts on the axle that they are secure and tight and the wheels
to the trailer.

Hand tighten the stud nuts to help align the rim on the hub and tighten the nuts in sequence as below. Ideally
use a torque wrench to ensure that the nuts are tightened adequately.

Torque Settings for wheel nuts are

7/16" UNF 110Nm or 80 Ftlbs

1/2" UNF 125Nm or 90 Ftlbs

Put a dab of grease on the towball and hook the trailer up to your tow vehicle and double check that all the
lights are working.

Grab a new vehicle registration form from your local vehicle registration centre, fill it out and register your
new trailer. Attach your new license plate to your trailer and book the trailer in for a Warrant of Fitness.

Australian Trailer Builders – check with your local State Department of Transport for details on VIN, certificate
of compliance and other requirements.

Once the trailer is warranted it is ready for loading!

Good luck and happy trailering!

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