PLANKING MODEL SHIPS

Allan Tyler Revised Edition 2019

 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3

SCOPE 4

TOOLS AND MATERIALS 5

TIMBERS 5

GLUES 6

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 7

FRAMING 8

BULKHEAD MODELS 8

FORMING A REBET 8

ASSEMBLY OF FRAMES 8

DECK PLANKING -

HULL PLANKING -

PREPARATION FOR PLANKING -

PLANKING METHODS -

DOUBLE LAYER PLANKING -

SINGLE LAYER PLANKING -

METHOD ONE -

MODELS WITH GUN PORTS -

MODELS WITHOUT GUN PORTS -

METHOD TWO -

FINISHING PLANKING -

BENDING PLANKS -

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

INTRODUCTION
Planking is by far the subject about which novice ship modelers ask the most
questions.
This is perhaps because kit models are the starting point for the vast majority of
beginners, yet, unfortunately, most kits fail to provide suitable instructions on this
most fundamental aspect of model ship construction. The majority of these
"instructions" (if they exist at all) mislead and encourage the modeller to adopt
poor techniques. This results in planking representation which does not at all
resemble the appearance of planking on "the real thing".
Some manufacturer’s state in their instructions that "double planking" is "just as in
the real ship". This statement is quite misleading since on the real thing planks
are/were normally applied in a single layer and attached to wooden frames which
were very much closer together than the plywood bulkhead frames usually used in
a kit model.
Despite this fundamental difference between "real" ship building and model
construction the end result of planking a model, whether "single" or "double"
planked can be one of total accuracy in appearance, provided that the correct
techniques are applied.
The purpose of this booklet is to guide the novice modeler in obtaining a true

East indiaman

scale likeness of a ship's planking. It is written on the basis that the end result is of
primary importance and the method of obtaining it may not necessarily be a
scaled down version of full size practice.
There are a number of ways to tackle the job at hand, all of which have differing
degrees of difficulty and authenticity. For the purpose of this booklet I have

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

chosen two methods which can be used for either kit models or "scratch" building
and which will enable a conscientious modeler to achieve very acceptable results.
SCOPE
As stated in the introduction, this booklet is intended to provide the novice modeler
with sufficient guidance to enable him to achieve a good planking result.
It is assumed that the model is a conventional one with plywood inner keel and
plywood bulkhead frames. Although sometimes referred to as "plank-on-frame" this
is a misnomer and it should really be described as "plank-on-bulkhead".
True "plank-on-frame" or "Admiralty" modeling is outside the scope of this booklet
and involves the construction of a skeleton or timber framework more akin to that
on a real ship. Usually areas of both deck and hull are left un planked to expose
some of the internal construction.
Whilst planking method No. 2 as described in 6 (C) has some relevance to
"Admiralty" construction it is emphasized that our principle concern is with planking
a standard "plank-on-bulkhead" ship.
For those interested in progressing to "Admiralty" construction; there is a selection
of recommended books listed at the conclusion of this .
Because the careful and accurate assembly of the inner keel and bulkheads is
crucial to obtaining good planking results, detailed advice on this aspect has been
included.
Suggested Reading on Fully Framed or "Admiralty" Model Construction
Built Up Ship Model - Davis
Plank on Frame Models (Vol. 1 and Vol. 2) Underhill.
Colonial Schooner - Hahn.
Ships of the American Revolution - Hahn
Building Plank on Frame Ship Models - McCarthy.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

A commercial kit can be built using only the materials supplied in the kit with the
addition of suitable glue and clear varnish. The essential tools are fairly minimal

HMB ENDEAVOUR

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

and can be acquired for very little money.

"Scratch" building can also be commenced with a modest initial outlay by
purchasing an inexpensive plan set and ready cut planks etc. Over a period of
time, a true "scratch" builder will build up a large stock of timber of various types
together with the equipment necessary to mill it into whatever sizes are required.
Miniature lathes and metal working equipment are all desirable as well as much
else besides.

TIMBERS
As noted above, ready cut timber strips are available from hobby shops and mail
order houses, however, the serious "scratch" builder should carry his own stock of
timber and have the ability to cut it into whatever shapes and profiles are required.
The seasoning of the wood is also very important. The wood should be air-dried if
possible for at least one or two years after you have purchased it to make sure it is
dry and will not warp, split, change colour or do some other strange thing. This
cannot be stressed too strongly. You do not want to spend a year or more building
a ship model only to see it warp out of shape or twist into a funny position. This is
one reason why plywood is a good wood to use for frame construction of Plank-on-
Bulkhead ships.
Some of the more easily obtainable woods are listed below.

COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE PRE-CUT TIMBERS

PLYWOOD
The most commonly used plywood in imported kits is Poplar which is light coloured
and very easy to cut and work. Of those plywood's available commercially in
Australia, the most suitable is Hoop Pine which is softer than most others and fairly
inexpensive.
LIME WOOD
This is widely available in ready cut form, is very easily bent, is fine grained and
frequently used as the first layer on double-planked models.
WALNUT
Commonly supplied in kits and while it has a very nice colour, it can be difficult to
bend.
EUROPEAN BEECH
An attractive fawn coloured timber which bends well and is often used in imported
kits. Sometimes has a rather noticeable grain which can look out of scale.
MAHOGANY OR SAPELE
Often supplied in thin material for the second layer of double planking. A very rich
colour when clear varnished but again has a noticeable grain which can look out of
scale.
MATERIALS THAT REQUIRE CUTTING TO SIZE.
KAURI PINE
An excellent timber for planking, it is easily bent and works beautifully. Difficult to
obtain.

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

PIRANHA PINE
Similar to Kauri Pine, but more readily available.
FRUIT TREES
Apple, nectarine, plum. These timbers are all excellent for planking; however they
are somewhat harder and require more skills to bend them properly.

OTHER READILY AVAILABLE TIMBERS

These timbers are not necessarily suitable for planking but are worthy of note
because of their other excellent qualities:
Murray Pine, Photinia Robusta, Pear.

GLUES
There are many types of glue available which can be used in ship modeling. The
two most useful glues in planking are P.V.A. or "Aquadhere" and contact
adhesives^ the latter being mainly useful in applying the second layer of planking
on a double planked model. Cyanoacrylates or super glues are usually too fast
setting to be of use other than very specialized applications. However they can be
used to great effect.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Many of the tools and materials will be already in your collection however, if you
don't already have them you should obtain most of the following:-
 A suitable piece of "Pyneboard" or Chipboard together with 2 straight strips of
wood for a construction base (see fig. 1).
 A "Maxi-Cutter", "Stanley Knife", Hobby knife or Scalpel.
 12 or 24 "Planking screws"
 A Pin Vice (really a small hand held chuck) together with small drill bits 0.5mm,

HMS SUPPLY

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

0.8mm and l.00mm. The more the better.

 A set of needle files.
 A fretsaw with blades.
 Small long nosed pliers and possibly tweezers.
 A small hammer.
 Spring clothes pegs or bulldog clips.
 A mini plane.
 Sandpaper in several grades from fine to coarse.
 Satin clear or flat clear polyurethane varnish together with good quality brushes.
 A miniature electric drill while certainly not essential can be a handy tool.
I generally use various quick dry automotive finishes in pressure pack cans
Almost always satin finish. Black and clear are essential.
FRAMING
BULKHEAD MODELS
The planking of a bulkhead framed model can be done in one of two main
methods:-
1. Double layer planking
2. Single layer planking

HMS SUPPLY (RAPER)

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

In either case the preparation of the frames is the key to achieving good results.
The methods of assembling a bulkhead framed model are described in 4 below.
Modelers should study these methods thoroughly before attempting any planking.

FORMING A REBET (REBATE)

Prior to assembling the frames an important decision has to be made.
The ease of planking and overall appearance of the finished model is dependant
on how the planking is applied to the frames at the bow and stern. This involves a
method of holding the ends of the planks, somewhat similar to full size planking,
using a rebet or rebate.
A rebet is a groove into which the ends of the planks are secured. This groove
holds the end of the plank at the bow along the stem piece and at the stern along
the stern post. This means you don't have to nail or hold them in position.
Most kits don't have provision for a rebet around the bow and keel.
Usually the keel pieces are in one piece (including stem and stern pieces) and are
made from plywood. This makes planking a lot more difficult because there is the
problem of securing the end of the planks. Sometimes there is a solid block of
wood at the bow into which the planks are to be nailed. This method requires the
holes in the end of each plank to be pre-drilled to prevent splitting. If you are using
planking screws, avoiding nail holes is not a problem, although it is still difficult to
hold them tightly at the bow. Using the kit method usually results in the grain in the
timber running in the wrong direction. (because of the one piece keel)
A better solution is to make a jig as shown in Fig. 4C This alleviates the need for
nails. The jig or clamp should be rubbed with wax to prevent glue from adhering to
it.
Some kits provide for Keel, stem and stern piece to be covered with veneer in
which case you can drill the holes through the stem piece to clamp the jig on.
These holes are subsequently covered by veneering the stem (and stern). The
angle of the veneer can then simulate separate pieces of timber. This is a
reasonable solution to the problem and the end result is quite authentic visually.

Another and better solution is to modify the kit to make things easier to plank, and
produce a better result. You may consider modifying your kit model to conform to
the method of construction shown. In Fig. 3. prior to assembly of the frames.
This does not require much work. To do this you must remove those portions of the
keel piece which represent the stem piece/ the stern post and the keel down to the
bottom of the frames.
Fig. 2B shows the modified keel piece.
The rebet former, keel, stern post and bow pieces are fabricated as shown in Fig 3.
The rebet former is glued and nailed or dowelled to the keel piece as shown in Fig.
2A
Fig. 2C shows the new components assembled on the modified keel..

If you are double planking and using the method employing a rebet, the first layer
is laid over the bow and stern and trimmed off after the glue has dried. See fig
9A,B,C

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The rebet forming strip, keel, stem piece and stern post are added after the first
layer of planking has been finished, sanded and any bumps removed or hollows
filled and refinished.

ASSEMBLY OF FRAMES
As previously stated the key to obtaining a good result lies with the framing of the
bulkheads. Each model will have its own peculiarities and will differ from the
examples given; however, the principle can be applied to all models. Proper
alignment of the keel and bulkheads is most important. How this can be achieved
depends on the model type, but the majority of them can be assembled as follows:-
Trial fit all the frames to the keel piece (in our example frames 2 to 16,
18, 19 onto keel piece 1). Ref Fig 2 & 3.

Ensure that the slots are deep enough to allow the deck levels to correspond to the
centre keel
level. Fig 4A. Remove the forward edge of the top part of frames which protrude
above the top of the keel piece to allow the deck to sit flat. Fig. 4B.

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FIG 2A

NORMAL PLANKING

WALES REBET FORMER

NAIL OR DOWELL INTO STEM PIECE

KEEL PIECE

On the underside of the decks, write the corresponding frame number next to each
notch.
Now individually trial fit each frame to the decks, ensure that the notches are of
sufficient width and depth to allow the deck to follow the shape of the frame.
NOTE Caution must be used to avoid breaking off the protruding part of the central
frames. You will have to spring the deck into place and if the slots are not deep
enough the spring in the plywood deck will exert undue pressure on the protrusion
and snap it off. If you do manage to break one off (it's not hard to do) don't despair,
leave it off until you have glued the deck in place on the assembled frames and
then glue it back.
Now fit all frames and decks together and check for a nice snug fit on all joints.

DO NOT GLUE ANY PARTS AT THIS STAGE.

Ref Fig. 2 & 3.
Cut suitable lengths of timber about 8mm square. Allow 2 for each frame and set
aside.
These lengths of timber will be glued on diagonal opposites of the frame to keel
joint. Refer Fig. 6A & 7.

Cut also suitable lengths to be glued to the outsides of each frame (6x6x20). Refer
Fig. 5A & B.
These pieces are to aid in the gluing and clamping of the deck to the frames. Either
planking screws or bulldog clips can be used to hold the deck while glue dries. If
you intend using planking screws, glue pieces of wood to alternate sides of the
frames protruding about 8mm. The top edge must not be above deck level. Level
with it or just below is fine. If using bulldog clips glue them just inboard. Refer Fig
5A & B.

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FIG 2B FIG 2C

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

If you have not already done so, it is now a good idea to move onto the deck
planking. It is not essential that the decks be planked before assembly but it makes
it a lot easier to sand and finish them properly. Refer to 5.

After deck planking is complete it is now time to assemble the frames. Determine
from the deck plan, appropriate points on the deck where nails through into the
keel will be hidden by deck fittings such as the main hatch etc.
Apply glue to the top edge of each frame and keel in its assembled state. Fit the
deck piece over the frames and put some brads along the centre line into the keel
(keep within the areas which will be covered by deck fittings). Apply bulldog clips to
the outside edges or fasten with planking screws as previously described. Refer
Fig. 7B.
Apply a bead or glue to the corners between keel and frames and press in place
the 8x8 pieces of timber cut to suitable lengths. Fig. 6A & 7A.

Use white PVA glue which will allow you enough time to perform this operation.
Set the assembly aside to dry. Refer Fig. 7.
The next operation is to prepare the frames for planking. See 6 (A).

DECK PLANKING
As noted in the previous on Framing; it can be much easier to plank the deck
before it is permanently glued to the frames and keel. This is a departure from
most instructions/ however, provided care is taken with the positioning of any nails
used both a better job and a saving in time will result because the ships bulwarks
are not in the way.
Remove the decks from the assembly. Refer Fig. 3, 5C & D. Study the deck view
on Fig. 12B and note that the deck planks are notched in around the edges in a
peculiar pattern. This is known as "joggling" and the planks around the perimeter
are "joggle planks". You can cut joggle planks if you wish however, you may prefer
to simply run the deck planks straight through to butt against the hull planks. This
joggling of deck planks is rarely shown in kit models. Mark a centre line down the
plywood deck and if the simpler method of deck planking is chosen simply work to
either side of the centre line taking the planks straight through. One edge of each
plank may be marked with black pencil or black felt pen to simulate the tar caulking
on the real ship. Use of a spirit based pen will ensure permanency. It is important
to ensure by experiment that the felt pen used will not run when the deck is later
varnished with polyurethane and it is most important to ensure that all glue is
carefully removed from the surface of all planks. A decision should be made on
whether to butt join all or some of the planks since they would not be installed in a
continuous length on a real ship. Another method is to lay planks full length and
score the joints with a sharp knife later. A preferred method of "caulking" favored
by some modelers is to leave a slight gap between deck planks and fit waxed black
sewing thread between them. Another method is to put black ink in the white glue
turning it dark grey. When applying the planks/ put on enough glue to fill the gaps
between planks and when completely dry, sand it off.
If you have decided to "joggle" your deck you will have to pencil onto the plywood

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 FIG 3

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PLANKING SHIP MODELS

KEEL KEELSON
REBET FORMER
BOW PIECES
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

RIGHT

TOO HIGH

TOO LOW
FIG 4A

FIG 4B

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PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 4C

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PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 5A

FIG 5B

FIG 5C

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 5D

deck the joggle pattern before you start laying planks. Each plank will then need to
be cut to its appropriate shape before gluing in place. Once all the main deck
planks are in position the joggle pattern is taken direct from plan onto tracing paper
and then onto the joggle plank. Accuracy with the outer edge is not quite as
important as the joint between main planks and joggle planks because the outer
edge will be covered by the inner planking to the bulwarks.
To simulate trennells (tree nails) holding the deck planks on, firstly draw pencil
lines (very lightly) across the deck at about 20mm spacing. Now using a 0.5-0.8mm
drill held in a pin vise, drill holes in the later of planking as shown in Fig. 7D. Select
suitable colour wood filler (Wattyl make a good range of these) and rub it over the
entire surface of the deck filling the holes. Buff the remainder off with a dry cloth.

HULL PLANKING
PREPARATION FOR PLANKING
Firstly remove the protruding parts of the timbers used to aid the gluing and
clamping of the deck to the frames* Using a file, fine rasp or sandpaper and a
block or a combination of all of these, bevel the edges of the frames and keel as
shown in Fig. 3, 6 & 7. The shaded areas shown in Fig. 3 & 6B represent the
surfaces which normally have to be sanded.

Use a plank and lay it over the frames in various positions to check the bevel, (i.e.
the plank should touch the full face of each frame as it is bent around them). You
may find that one or more of the frames are too small. For example: a plank laid
across three adjoining frames may not touch the middle one. This must be
remedied by the addition of a piece of timber to build it up. Ref. Fig 1A.
Pay particular attention to the keel at the stern. It must be thinned to a thickness
such that when planked with all layers of planks it is the same thickness at the

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HMS ENDEAVOUR

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

stern post.

This whole process of beveling and checking is known as "fairing" and is extremely
important to ensure that the hull when planked is smooth and free of bumps and
hollows. Please take your time and resist the temptation to start planking before
the frame is satisfactorily "faired",
refer Fig. 7.
The fitting of the keel and stern/stem posts depends upon which method of
planking you are going to use. If double planking, these parts are fitted after the
first layer of planking and if single planking, they are fitted first. Either way this
forms the rebet or groove for the outer planking. Refer to section "Forming a
Rebet".

SECURING PLANKS
There are many possible methods of holding planks in position while glue dries.
 Permanently nail using brass nails - if there are insufficient in the kit more can be
easily obtained.
 Temporarily nail, the nails are removed once the glue is dry and the holes filled
with wood filler This can give the effect of a "trenelled" (tree nailed) hull. This
method should be used for the first layer of double layer planking.
 Planking screws - these have the advantage of not marking the planks at all and
you can decide later whether you wish to have a nailed effect on your hull or not.
If you do wish to either "nail" or "trennell" your hull you will have the advantage of
being able to more carefully mark and place
the holes for the nails or wood filler.
 Fix the planks with trennells. This method requires making trennells from
bamboo. Other than that it is similar to using nails. All holes have to be predrilled.

TAPERING OF PLANKS
Tapering can be carried out by use of a mini plane, a block of wood with sandpaper
glued to it or the use of a steel rule and knife.

PLANKING METHODS
There are two common techniques of planking hulls:-Double layer and single layer.
This book is written primarily for the wooden carvel planked ship model. If you are
building a model which is to be painted with a smooth finish use two layers of
method 1.If you use 2 layers of method 1 planking, take care that the planks do
not lay exactly on top of each other. There should be some overlap. If not the
resulting joints weaken the planking and as planks tend to move with changes in
humidity cracks will appear in your paintwork. This is not so important if your hull is
merely stained and varnished but it can be very disappointing otherwise.

DOUBLE LAYER
This technique is the most widely used in model ship kits. It usually describes
applying 2 layers of method 1 planking as described below. This technique has
many advantages over a single layer on most plank on bulkhead models. Usually

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FIG 6A

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 6B

FIG 7A

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PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 7B
SEE FIG 7A

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the spacing of the bulkheads is such that it is difficult to obtain fair curves in the
planks and flat spots may result in the finished planking. By applying two layers
any flaws in the hull shape can be rectified before the final layer is added. It also
results in a very strong hull as the two layers of planks overlap and are glued to
each other, similar to double diagonal techniques used in yacht construction. The
main reason for using method 1 for the first layer is to give the modeler some
practical experience in bending and securing planking without having to worry
about butting, proper fitting of stealers etc. He or she also has a second chance to
remedy any errors in the framing. The second layer should always use method 2
as this results in a true scale representation of planking.
SINGLE LAYER
This technique is used on plank on frame models and models which have only one
layer of planking. This most closely resembles the full size techniques.
Refer to method 2 described below.

HULL PLANKING METHOD 1

This planking layer is applicable only to those kits which are double planked and is
used for the first layer of planking. It also results in planking most often depicted in
kit model plans.
It does not appear like full size planking however it is the simplest method.

MODELS WITH GUN PORTS

Most kit instructions are a bit deficient in showing how to locate gun ports on the
model. Gun ports run parallel to the decks and they rarely run parallel to the
planking, or in other words planking rarely runs parallel to the decks. Fig. 8B shows
an example of the first layer of planking parallel to the gun ports. We can use the
double planking here to locate the ports accurately so that when the outer or
second layer is applied we know exactly where the gun ports are. Study the gun
ports on the plan, there should be an allowance to frame or line the ports. If not,
increase the size of each port (all round) by the thickness of a suitable piece of
wood from your kit.
You may have to overlay the sheer plan on the framing plan (the plan showing the
gun port locations over a side view of the frames). To enable you to locate the
ports with reference to the frames. The next step is to transfer these locations onto
your assembled and faired frames.
Lay a plank over your plan along the top edge of the gun ports and draw a line
along the plank (on the top edge of the ports plus the lining). Repeat this for the
bottom edge. You should now have two parallel curved lines on your plan running
along the top and bottom of the lining of the gun ports. Repeat for any other gun
decks on your model. You now transfer these lines onto the model by measuring
down or up from the main deck on each frame to these lines and transferring the
dimension to the frames on the model. These lines now represent the starting
points for the first layer of planking. Ref Fig. 8B.

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

The first planks are glued and nailed above and below these lines the full length of
the hull. Refer Fig. 8B. Apply planks to each side alternately. This prevents
warpage or twisting of the hull frame. Start at the lowest row of gun ports and apply
the first plank below the lower edge of the gun port lining. Apply the next plank
along the upper edge of the gun port lining. As this plank is bent around the bow, it
will tend to bend downwards towards the previous laid plank. In other words, the
gap between them will begin to narrow. You should maintain the gap between the
planks between the first and last gun port. Repeat this procedure for each row of
gun ports above.
If the frames on your model protrude above the upper most decks and are intended
to be planked on the inside (i.e. inside of the bulwarks) do not apply any glue to
these parts as they are to be removed when the planking has been completed. A
good insurance is to cover these parts with magic tape to enable them to be
broken out easily.
Apply glue to the edges of planks only where the top of the frames have to be
removed later. Bulldog clips or pegs can be used to keep the planks against the
frames until the glue dries. Do not worry if the gaps between the planks at the bow
and stem are not parallel as these areas are simply filled in by cutting the planks to
shape.
The next step is to locate the gun ports along these fixed planks. (Transfer
dimensions from the bulkheads to the ports from your plan). Ref Fig. 8B. Cut short
lengths of planking (intermediate planking supports) and glue behind the upper and
lower hull planks. Ref Fig. 8B. This should now have framed all the gun ports. Fill
in the gaps between ports with planks cut to length and tapered to suit if
necessary.
The next step is to trial fit a plank by butting it against the one below the wale amid
ships and bend it around the bow, allowing it to find it's natural curve. If you find it
overlaps the plank above somewhat, you should now start to taper the planks. Ref
Fig. 9. If the plank still curves nicely around without a tendency to overlap, continue
on until you find this occurs.
If your model is fitted with gun ports, then skip the first part of Section (G).
MODELS WITHOUT GUN PORTS
If your model does not have gun ports the first plank is laid with its top edge level
with the main deck. This does not necessarily reflect full size practice but it is
chosen for no other reason than it is generally a good starting point. Planks should
be laid full length from bow to stern and overhang stem post and transom/stern
post to be trimmed later. The first few planks should be able to be laid without any
tapering.
Apply two or three planks at a time to each side alternately. This prevents warpage
or twisting of the hull frame. After about three planks have been laid downwards,
trial fit a plank by butting it against the last one amid ships and bend it around the
bow allowing it to find it's natural curve. You will find it overlaps the plank above
somewhat. Ref. Fig. 9.

METHOD ONE CONTINUED

This point where tapering becomes necessary is usually just below the Wales

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

REMOVE TOP OF FRAMES BEFORE

FRAMES PLANKING INSIDE OF BULWARKS

INTERMEDIATE PLANKING
SUPPORTS
1st LAYER OF PLANKING
TOP OF PLANKING 2nd LAYER OF PLANKING
GUN PORTS
DECK LEVEL

A
A

FIRST LAYER OF PLANKING

FIRST TWO PLANKS

DECK LEVEL

WALES
SECOND LAYER OF PLANKING

INTERMEDIATE PLANKING SUPPORTS

2nd LAYER OF PLANKING

1st LAYER OF PLANKING FIG 8

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

(those thicker planks which are shown on the plans as a darker band of planking
running full length of the hull). From the point where you start to taper planks, the
taper will increase to a sharp chisel point and subsequent planks will work along
the last full plank until it meets the bow and then work their way down the stem
piece. Ref Fig. 9. At the stern the tendency will be for the planks to curve apart
leaving thin wedged shapes which can be filled in with wedged pieces. These
wedge shape pieces are commonly known as stealers, however, stealers never
actually came to a sharp point nor would planks thinned or tapered to less than half
of their full width. However this can be disregarded in the first layer of planking as
the intention is merely to provide a basis to glue the final later of planking to. The
correct use of stealers and joggle planks is discussed in planking Method 2.
Continue planking below the gun ports until you meet the keel. You may find that
as you approach the keel the last plank does not run parallel to it. Do not worry,
simply fill in this tapered portion by tapering the planks to suit. Steps will be taken
in planking Method 2 to insure that this does not occur in the final layer.
Return to the planking above the main deck or top row of gun ports. Refer to the
paragraph headed 6(F). Models with gun ports "for details of how the upper parts
of the frames can be removed easily by the use of magic tape". Continue planking
upwards until the planking is completed. You should now remove any part of the
planking which may be above the top of the frames, ref. Fig. 9.
The inside of the bulwarks should now be planked. First remove those portions of
the frames which protrude above the decks. Install as many intermediate planking
supports (Refer Fig. 8B) as necessary to support the bulwark planking. Complete
this planking up to (or just above) the outer layer and trim back to the same level
as the outer later of planking.

HULL PLANKING METHOD 2

For models which are single planked and for the final layer of planks on a double
planked model, before continuing with the second layer of planking you must
ensure that the first layer is finished and sanded properly. This includes removing
any bumps and filling any hollows with scrap planking material. This must be done
in such a manner as to ensure that your hull shape is now smooth and free from
any imperfections. This process may result in some planking being sanded to a
very thin state, this does not matter as it is covered with the second layer. You can
now attach the rebet former stem and stern pieces and the keel.
Some study of the plans and the frame will indicate the necessity for planks to be
tapered at the bow of the ship and in some cases at the stern as well. A quick
check with a tape measure from deck level around each frame to the keel will show
why this is so. The distance will vary and the purpose of the tapering (and
"wedging") is to ensure that your planking doesn't reach the keel at the position of
one frame (say frame 2 or 3) before the others. This method ensures that the
modeler achieves this. This method closely resembles the full sized practice of
planking. Incidentally it should be noted that for our purposes planking is
commenced at the deck line unlike full size shipbuilding practice where planking
normally commences at the keel.
It uses a principle of dividing the hull into bands or belts which can be planked in

26
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 9A

27
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 9B

PLANKS RUNNING
DOWN THE STEM

LAST FULL PLANK

FIG 9C
PLANKS MEETING
THE LAST FULL PLANK

28
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

sequence. This is done to achieve a fair or as close to natural curve for each plank.
Most hulls can be divided into 3 belts, the divisions being the lower edge of the
wale and the turn of the bilge. The lower edge of the wale is easily located but the
turn of the bilge is a little difficult to locate on the model. In real practice planks
called ribbands are laid from stem to stern and allowed to follow their natural curve.
These are spaced at intervals around the hull and thus divide the surface into
bands or belts which are subsequently filled in with planking. The planks are
tapered or another cut in (usually at the stern) to fill the areas between the
ribbands. Note that the rib bands are removed as the planking progresses upwards
from the keel. (Planking normally starts at the keel with the first plank called the
garboard strake). This process is called spiling and the timbers are spiling battens
or rib bands.
Returning to our model we can simplify this method by reducing the number of rib
bands to one or two. The first stage is to complete the planking of the wales.
Locate the position of the wales as follows:-
Measure and transfer dimension "A" for each frame from sheer plan/side elevation
to table. This is the dimension from the top of each frame to the top edge of the
wale. Ref Fig 10A. Mark also each dimension on the corresponding frame on the
model. Measure and mark on the frames the thickness or width of the wale, this will
establish the position of the wales bounded by line 1 and 2. Ref Fig. 10A.
In all instructions that follows, planks should be selected, shaped and fitted as a
pair; one either side.
Fix the correct number of wale planks to the hull following and keeping between
these lines. Apply planks alternately to each side of the hull.
Start at the bow and work to the stern. You will need to notch the start of each
plank where it fits into the rebet at the bow because these planks are thicker than
normal. Ref Fig 11B.
NOTE:
Wale planks (and sometimes planks above and below wales) were normally an
interlocking type of shorter planks called "anchor stock and top & butt). I have
omitted this feature because of it's difficulty and used straight planks.

The lower edge of the wales corresponds to line 2 in Fig. 10. When you have
completed this on both sides apply a normal planking strip to the hull from the point
where transom meets keel and allow it to follow the natural sheer around to the
bow. Do not glue this strip on but put some brads into the frames to hold it. This
should appear somewhat like the line shown as line 3 on Fig. 10 and 11 "A" and 11
"C". Mark off on each frame the lower edge of this plank onto each frame and
remove the plank. These marks now correspond to line 3 in Fig. 10. Now apply a
piece of masking tape to each frame between line 2 and 3 on each frame and
including along the transom "T". Ref Fig. 10 "A". Write the frame number on each
piece (i.e. 8B). Repeat for the lower belt of planking between line 3 and keel
including "K", measure the length of each piece and transfer these lengths to table.

You now need to determine the mid frame of your model. This is at the widest point
of the hull (usually). In this example it is frame 8. Add dimensions B & C together

29
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

for each frame - the largest dimension indicates which frame is the mid frame. Note
that the sum of B and C for the aft frames could be greater than amidships. Ignore
these figures at this stage and pick the largest dimension roughly amidships. In this
example let us assume frame 8 is the midframe. From your list of parts or from
your other plans, determine the nominal width of planking strips supplied in the kit
(usually 5 to 7mm). In this example they are 5mm wide. The amount of tapering
required can be determined mathematically by measuring the distance on the
various frames for each belt and doing a bit of simple mathematics. For the
purpose of this worked example we will say that dimension "B8" is 62mm and "C8"
is 47mm.
The number of planks at the mid frame 8 for "B' and "C" can be thus worked out.
Simply divide 62 by 5 (nominal plank width) = 12.4. Therefore the number of 5mm
planks would be 12.4. However we want an equal number of planks of the same
width to fit within this 62mm dimension. So we increase the 12.4 to 13 and divide
62 by 13 = 4.77. This equals our calculated maximum plank width for belt "B". This
may seen an odd width but it doesn't matter. Now divide all other dimensions "B"
for the other frames by 13 and enter the results into the table.

You will notice that the table does not have space for frame 2 and 3 (part No. 1 is
the keel), and the reason for this is as follows:-

UPPER BELT "B"

At the bow, plank belt "B" narrows to a much lesser width than at frame 8 and this
would require planks to be thinned almost to a point. As a general rule planks
should not be thinned to less than half their original width. (In this example 5/2 =
2.5mm). This is nearly always the case (the plank width computes to less than half
of the original thickness) for the first two frames. So they are omitted from the table.
(If the hull is of a "Clipper" or similar shape you may well have figures for these
frames which are not less than half the original thickness).
At the stern you should find that dimensions "T" is not usually less than half B8.
Therefore you should get the same number of planks across "T" (in this example
13) and they will not be thinner than half the original thickness.
LOWER BELT "C"
At the bow the natural flow of the planks from frame 3 forward varies and there is
no real easy method of placing these planks onto the hull.
At the stern dimension "K" will always be greater than "C8" required the planks at
"K" to be much wider than at "C8" (i.e. greater than 5mm).
To overcome this narrowing or widening of planks at any place on a hull it is
necessary to fit stealers or joggle planks. Stealers take care of the tendency to
widen, fig. 11C and joggle planks take care of the narrowing Fig. 11A. The
approximate point when stealers have to be incorporated is indicated by the plank
width figures in the table in Fig 10A; e.g. look a long the table for a figure (plank
width) which is greater than 4.77. At this point you will need more than 13 planks at
4.77 wide to fill this area. The approximate point when you have to reduce the
number of planks below 13 is when the plank width is below 2.5mm (half the
nominal plank width) and you will have to incorporate joggle planks.

30
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS
FIG 10A

31
 FRAME NUMBER

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 T K
DIM “A” 20 20 16 15 18 15 25 26 27 28 29 30 - -
DIM “B” 31 41 52 61 62 61 61 60 58 55 50 45 41 -
DIM “C” 35 38 41 45 47 47 47 48 49 51 53 57 - 62
BELT B PLANK WIDTH 2.4 3.2 4.0 4.7 4.8 4.7 4.7 4.6 4.5 4.2 3.8 3.4 3.2 -

BELT C PLANK WIDTH 3.5 3.8 4.1 4.5 4.7 4.7 4.7 4.8 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.7 - 6.2

32
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 10B
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 10C

These points are only a guide and in practice the starting point of these stealers or
joggle planks will vary one or maybe even two bulkheads either side of the
indicated points. There is no easy way to position these stealers and joggle planks
you "simply" eyeball them. You should not have to use stealers in Belt B at the
stern as already mentioned. (Dimension T Fig 10).
At the bow you will almost certainly have to use joggle planks in Belt B. Patience,
trial and fit and eyeballing are the only way to achieve this. Fig 11A should give a
good idea of what is desirable. Note that joggle planks and stealers are spaced
along, the frames and never one above the other. Planking Belt C could be similar
at the bow but usually a lot easier and sometimes a stealer may be required low
down.
At the stern you will almost certainly need stealers. A quick guide as to how many
stealers are required (used) can be achieved by dividing Area K by the number of
planks in Belt C. The difference between this figure and the number of planks for
Belt C equals the number of stealers required. In this exercise we have used dim.
"C8" = 47mm. Therefore the number of planks at C8 will be: 47 divide 5 = 9.4,
round up to 10. Therefore the
number of planks in Belt C will be 10. Now divide 47 by 10 = 4.7, the nominal
maximum plank width for Belt C. Now divide dimension K by 4.7 (lets say K is 65).
65 divided by 4.7 = 13.8: this means we will have to use 3.8 more planks 13.8 -f
10) at 4.7mm wide to fill this space. This would practically be 4 extra pranks. Fig
11C shows these 4 planks.
Returning to our masking tape. Fig. 10C shows a series of parallel lines drawn at
2.5mm intervals. The 2.5mm is derived from our half maximum plank width and the
numbers along the top represent the number of planks in each Belt "A", "B" or "C".
If we take our piece of tape for Frame B8 and lay it across the lines 0 and 13 we
can mark off each line onto the tape, thus dividing the tape into 13 equal spaces
(which should be 4.77mm). We then transfer the marks onto the frames by

33
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

reapplying the tape to the respective frames. Repeat this for all frames which will
have 13 planks. You now have marks on all frames which represent the edges of
all planks right down to the keel, and approximately from the first probable joggle
plank to the first stealer.
From this point on its all in your hands. Study these instructions carefully and take
your time. Remember the three most important ingredients:-
large portion of time
large boxes of patience
1 small box of swear words.

FINISHING PLANKING
From the main plan carefully pencil the height of the bulwarks if you have not
already done so. (This will largely coincide with the height of the frames). Remove
the surplus material from the top of the planking and when satisfied with the shape
of the top of the bulwarks remove the plywood frame tops with a knife.
You should now carefully clean up the hull with various grades of sandpaper.
The decision should be made, (if it has not already been made), on whether to
"nail"/"trenell" the planks or not. If the intention is to provide this effect, drill the
holes as shown on the plan using a drill sized 0.5mm to 0.8 and then apply nails
(preferably with heads removed) or a wood filler of suitable colour. Apply a sealing
coat of clear polyurethane varnished (either satin or flat), sand lightly and repeat.
This will protect the hull from minor accident.

BENDING PLANKS
Bending planks varies from very easy to almost impossible depending on the type
of wood being used. Timber chosen for planking should have a long straight close
grain and preferably a semi soft wood. Some hardwoods bend very readily but are
difficult to sand to reduce any minor imperfections in the finished planking. On the
other hand some of the most attractive woods are hardwoods. Softwoods such as
Western Red Cedar bend very well but are too soft for planking except on very
large models. The best timbers for planking are outlined in 3. If using a semi soft
timber like Kauri Pine, bending is easy. Have a kettle simmering on a stove arid
hold the plank over the spout so that the steam heats the area to be bent. When
actually bending the planks, take a firm grip with each forefinger and thumb side by
side. Bend slightly, slide both hands slightly and bend again. Continue and if
necessary repeat the procedure. It is worth while practicing on a few pieces of
scrap planking material.
A more direct method is to put the plank in boiling water for a few minutes. Do not
over soak planks as they can discolour if left too long. If the plank is still difficult to
bend, try rubbing the steamed (wet) plank with a hot iron. Aeropiccola make an
Electric Plank Bender which is a bit like a soldering iron with a special end on it.
Holding the plank over a candle also aids bending but be careful not to scorch the
plank.
If the plank still won't bend, then I suggest it is not really suitable. However, there
are more methods to deal with such timber.

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 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

Soaking the plank for 24 hours in a 50% ammonia/water solution will usually render
any timber flexible. This process nearly always changes the colour of the wood so
it is wise to do a trial run on some scraps. With some timbers (usually being used
on wales) I have resorted to putting saw cuts in the inside of the plank. This works
well but be sure to put enough in to avoid getting flat spots in the plank.
A refinement of the "Saw-cut" method is the use of a "Form-a-Strip" or "Plank
Nipper". This is a pliar like tool which squeezes the under side of the plank. A
series of these squeezes 5mm or so apart will induce a reasonable curve which
provides a starting point for further bending.

35
 PLANKING SHIP MODELS

NORMAL PLANKING

WALES FIG 11B

36
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

37
PLANKING
BELT B
PLANKING
BELT C
FIG 11A
STEALERS
38
PLANKING
BELT B
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

PLANKING
BELT C
FIG 11C
STEALERS
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 11D

39
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

FIG 12A

FIG 12B

40
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

41
PLANKING SHIP MODELS

HMS ENDEAVOUR

42
HM BARK ENDEAVOUR