" DIRECTIONS

FOR usmr THE

mnesota
mobel C
Sewmg
macbme

C
Sears, Roebuck 8: CQ.
' QHICAGO
 3

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

Every machine before leaving the factory has been carefully adjusted
and minutely inspected, and its sewing,r qualities have been tested on every
class of work and found perfect in every respect. "
Before the machine is used, care should be taken to clean and oil it
thoroughly, according to instructions; but do not tamper with the ad-
justments of the machine until you fully understand how to handle it.
Avoid unnecessary meddling with the working parts or adjustments at
all times, as serious trouble may result from tampering with the machine.
Do not allow incompetent parties to attempt to repair the machine.
Careful attention to the instructions in the book and a little practice
will soon enable the learner to operate the machine'and all the attach-
ments.
Practice on strips of cloth and do not attempt to do practical sewing
until you have learned to guide the work properly and produce an even
motion in running.
Do not try to use the attachments until you are thoroughly familiar
with plain sewing and can handle the machine easily. If a machine gives
trouble it will almost invariably result from one of the following causes:
Improper setting of the needle, a crooked or blunt needle, poor thread, or
the needle not being the right size for the thread used.
Be sure to read all the instructions carefully and do not consider it a
waste of time, even if you have used other machines.
When ordering needles, shuttles, or parts of any kind, always give the
plate number of machine, which will be found stamped on top of the
front slide, directly in front of the needle.
Never run the machine when it is,threaded up unless there is cloth
under the presser foot. If you do the thread will snarl and tangle and
may break the needle.
_ Do not run the machine with the presser foot resting on the feed and
no cloth between, or the sharp teeth of the feed will injure the foot and
the feed teeth will be dulled.
Never run the machine with either of the race covers-open. except to
turn the wheel very slowly by hand or the shuttle will catch and cause
serious damage.
Do not try to help the feed by pulling the work, lest you bend or break
the needle. The machine will feed without assistance.
Do not allow lint or dust to accumulate inside the shuttle, nor under
the shuttle tension spring. Any substance inside the shuttle will prevent
the bobbin revolving freely, and anything under the spring will interfere
with a perfect tension.
To turn a corner, stop the machine, with the needle at least half way
down in the goods, raise the presser foot by means of the lifter at the
back and turn the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot.
After using the machine always clean it well before putting it away.
 4

FOR EEGINNERS
If you are not accustomed to the use of a sewing machine or find it
difficult to get a regular and even motion to the treadle, it should be
learned by running the machine without threading it up, with the shuttle
out and the presser foot raised off the feed. First loosen the hand wheel
by turning the friction nut (see out on page 9) toward you same as is
done to use the bobbin winder, so the hand wheel will revolve freely on
the shaft and without running the sewing mechanism. Place your feet
on the treadle with the instep directly over the center and turn the hand
wheel toward you with the right hand, allowing the feet to move back
and forth on the rocking treadle with the motion produced and continue
this motion by pressing on the treadle alternately with the heels and
toes until an easy and steady motion is obtained. After becoming en-
tirely familiar with the treadle movement in this way, then connect the
hand wheel with the machine by turning the friction nut away from you.
Then raise the presser foot with the presser lifter at the back of the
face plate, start the hand wheel toward you and continue the motion with
the feet as already learned. When you are proficient in this motion put
a piece of cloth between the feed and the presser foot, drop the lifter so
as to let the presser foot down on the cloth °and operate the machine in
this way without threading it up until you have learned to guide the ma-
terial and make a straight seam.
Do not attempt to do any sewing until you have become proficient in
running the machine by the treadle and can start the machine readily
without turning the wheel in the wrong direction. Always remember that
the top of the hand wheel should turn toward the operator.
BREAKING THE UPPER THREAD
This may be caused by the improper threading of the machine; the
upper tension being too tight; the needle being too small for the thread;
the needle being set the wrong side out, or set crooked; or by a sharp
edge on the shuttle; or the needle being too large for the hole in the
throat plate.
BREAKING THE LOWER THREAD
This may be caused by the shuttle being wrongly threaded; the tension
being too tight; the bobbin being wound too full, so it Will not revolve
freely; a rough or sharp place on the edge on the shuttle at the heel, or
by failing to keep the shuttle race clean.
CAUSE or A MACHINE MISSING STITCHES

Should there at any time be skipped or long stitches at intervalshit is

owing to the needle being set too low (or too high in very heavy sewmg) ,
or its having become bent away from the shuttle, or its being too small
for the thread in use, and sometimes, to the point of the shuttle becoming
accidentally blunted. When using very fine needles, and also when stitch-
ing heavy work, be sure that the points of the needles are perfect and
on a line with the center of the direction of the needle, and not blunted
or turned over.
 ROLLER
BEI'ARING

To Oil the Machine

The thorough oiling of a Sewing machine is of the utmost importance
as it insures ease of motion and prevents premature wear. Every point
on the head of the machine where oil should be applied is indicated on
the cut on page 6 by the word “oil” with dotted lines showing the exact
spot for oiling. Oil holes will be found for each hearing which cannot
be reached for direct application of oil.
To oil the parts inside the head: Raise the needle bar to its highest
point, then put one drop of oil on each side of the needle bar on top of
the machine, and one drop in each of the oil holes in the head as shown
on the cut.
To oil the works underneath the bed plate: Throw off the belt and
turn back the head on its hinges, then apply a drop of oil on each bear-
ing marked on out above.
To oil the stand: The journal of the balance wheel below the table,
the bearing at each end of the pitman and the bearings of the treadle
on each side, are the five points on the stand which require regular oil-
ing. After oiling run the machine a few moments to distribute the oil
and then wipe carefully. Be sure every part is clean before commencing
to sew.
If the machine runs hard it must be due to lack of proper oiling of
some bearings. Should the machine become gummed from long standing
or poor oil, apply kerosene or benzine to all the hearings to remove the
gum, then run the machine rapidly, wipe clean and oil thoroughly with
good sewing machine oil before beginning to sew.
 ..
“am fsfW.
fi‘fh‘afig‘fiw
“(3th “5’-
”

To Thread the Machine

(See Cut Above)
First raise the needle bar to its highest point. Place the spool of thread
on the spool pin so the thread pulls from the back side of the spool. Draw
the thread back of the tension adjusting screw into the slot of the top
tension spring and between the two tension surfaces (A) as shown in
cut. Pass the thread under the thread guide (B) then up and through
the slot in top of needle bar (C) then down back of the staple (D) in the
face plate, drawing a loop of the thread forward through the staple (D)
and over the point of the thread controller (E), then down and under
thread guide (F), thence through the eye of the needle, leaving the end
of the thread about three inches long.
 .
I

To Thread the Shuttle

SHUTTLE
TENSION
SCREW

Hold the shuttle in the left hand,'with the point toward you; drop the
bobbin into the shuttle so that the thread draws from the left side of
the bobbin as it is put in; then draw the thread into the open slot B
toward you, at the same time putting a little pressure with your finger
on the bobbin, so that it can not turn; the thread will then be forced
under the point T of the shuttle spring. The shuttle is then ready for
use. ~

The shuttle tension is tightened by means of the screw. With the small
screw driver,—turn this screw to the right to increase and to the left
to diminish the tension on the thread. When the machine leaves the
factory, the tension in the shuttle has been set right for all ordinary
kinds of work and thread, and therefore needs.no alteration. The bore
of the shuttle should be kept clear of lint so the end of the bobbin does
not project outside the shuttle.

To Place Shuttle in the Machine

Withdraw the front race cover and place the shuttle in the carrier
with the point toward the operator; then close the slide. It is sometimes
more convenient to withdraw the back race cover and put the shuttle in
its place when the carrier is at the back part of the race. This is
especially the case when some of the attachments are in use.

The Shuttle Race

The face of the shuttle race must be kept clean and free from dirt
or gum. To do this, rub occasionally with a piece of cloth having a
drop of oil on. Afterwards wipe it with a dry, clean cloth. If through
neglect the race has become very gummy, first clean it with a cloth
saturated with kerosene; then use an oiled cloth, and a dry, clean cloth
as above. The cotton waste in the oil well in shuttle race should be kept
well saturated with oil. Breaking of thread and skipping of stitches are
frequently caused by failing to keep the shuttle race clean.
 To Set the Needle
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and IOOsen the screw in the
needle clamp. Hold the needle between the thumb and finger of the left
hand and pass the shank of the needle up through the hole in the needle
clamp as far as it will go, or until it sets against the little stop pin in
the grove in the needle bar and with-the flat side of the shank toward the
needle bar. Then secure the needle firmly by the screw on the needle
clamp. If linen or silk thread, or very coarse cotton, is to be used in
sewing, the needle may be set a “little lower than directed, so that the
end of the shank of the needle does not quite come up to the stop in the
needle bar. .

To Avoid Br’eaking Needles

When a needle is broken it is, in nearly every case, the fault of the
operator, and caused by pulling the work, so that the needle strikes the
throat plate, when it is bound tovbreak'. A needle may also be broken
by sewing heavy seams or very thick goods without having the pressure
on the presser foot as heavy at it should be for such work. To increase
the pressure on the goods turn the presser nut on top of the presser bar
to the right. To decrease the pressure, for light work, turn the
presser nut to the left. A blunt needle or one with a hooked point will
cause trouble and prevent good work.

To Regulate the Length of Stitch

The stitch regulator is in front of the base of the arm, directly under
the bobbin winder. On the stitch regulator plate is a scale of numbers
which indicate the length of stitch. These numbers—No. 7, No. 10, No.
16 and No. 24——show the number of stitches to the inch. To obtain the
length of stitch desired, loosen the thumb nut by turning it to the left
and set the indicator with the pointer at the proper number. No. 24
gives the shortest stitch and No. 7 the longest. You can vary the stitches
from the scale by setting the pointer between the numbers. Be sure to
fasten the nut tightly after setting- the indicator. To turn the stitch oil’
entirely, set the pointer at 0.
 To Wind Bobbins
(See Illustration above)
The Hand Wheel Friction Nut has n right.hund thread.
For Winding Bobbins hold the hand wheel with the left hand and with the right hand
turn the hand wheel Friction Nut (as marked in cut) to the left or toward you—that. is in
the direction shown in cut by'arrow under the word “Loosen." This will loosen the belt
pulley so the belt will run Without moving the sewing ports of the machine. Place the
belt back of the grooved wheel on the bobbin winder (H) as illustrated. Run the winder
until the end of the feed lever (J) is no for to the right as it will go. Place one end of
the bobbin in the socket of the spindle (K) on the right side and the other end of the
bobbin in the socket of the step (L) on the left side, pulling the step nut (M) toward the
left to admit the bobbin and letting it spring back into place.
Catch the end of the thread between the brnm end of the bobbin and the socket of the
spindle (K) on the right side. Curry the thread through the slot in the end of the feed
lever (J). then through the eye (N) at the lower end of the lever. When winding hold
the thread between the fingers but not too tight. An evenly and smoothly wound bobbin
is necessary to produce perfect work. Do not fill the bobbin too full' or it will not revolve
freely in the shuttle.’ A very little oil should be placed on the left hand end of the
bobbin where it runs in the socket ot' the step (L) and the spindle should be kept oiled
throuuh the oil hole (0).
“men through winding bobbins remove the belt from the back of the grooved wheel
(H) and turn the hand wheel friction nut to the right or in the direction indicated by
the arrow under the word "Tighten" until it if tight and the machine is ready for sewing.
The thread should wind evenly on the bobbin and fill it alike at both ends. This is
regulated by the finger or feed lever (J). 11‘ one end fills faster than the other the feed
lever should be bent slightly toward the end on which the least thrend is wound. If it
winds too fast on the middle of the bobbin bend the feed lever slightly nwny from the
bobbin. The bobbin should fill a little faster on the ends than in the middle. Be sure to
stop winding-before thread is wound higher than the brass ends of the bobbin.
 ‘(D

To Regulate the Pressure

Te amount of pressure on the work is regulated by means of the
thumb nut on top of the presser b:. r. Turn this nut to the right to in-
crease the pressure and to the left to decrease the pressure. In sewing
heavy or hard fabrics a heavier pressure is requird than for light goods.
A lack of sufficient pressure on the work will sometimes cause skipping of
stitches because the presser foot does not hold the goods firmly on the
throat plate when the stitch is drawn.

To Commence to Sew
The machine having been properly threaded above and below as ex-
plained in the preceding directions raise the presser bar and raise the
needle to its highest point and the machine is ready for sewing. Place
the goods under the presser foot with the needle directly over the point
where you desire to commence stitching. Lower the presser bar by
dropping the lifter at the back of the face plate. Then start the machine
by turning the hand wheel toward you.

To Remove the Work from the Machine

Stop the machine with the needle at its highest point, and raise the
presser foot by means of the lifter. Press against the tension release
with right hand and with the left hand draw the work directly back from
under the needle. Then draw the threads over the thread cutter on the
back side of the presser bar and the work is free.

To Tighten the Belt

The leather belt which transmits power from the balance wheel on the
stand to the hand wheel on the head should always be tight enough not
to slip on the pulley. It should not be too tight or it will cause the ma-
chine to run hard. If the belt is too loose it should be made shorter.
Unfasten the belt hook and cut off squarely about one-half inch from
one end of the belt. Punch 9. hole for the hook in the end that has
been cut and couple the belt. '

To Take Off Presser Foot

Raise the needle bar to its highest point, loosen the nut just above the
presser foot by turning it to the right until the foot is free. It can then
be drawn ofi' toward the operator.
 The Tensions
The object to be attained is to have the stitch alike on both sides of the
fabric. This is accomplished by the unsions, or strain upon both threads.
The tension upon both threads 5110qu be as nearly alike as pessible, and
tight enough only to make a smooth, i‘ rm seam. If the threads are of the
proper size for the material used, and both tensions right, the threads will
be drawn and locked together in f? -»~ . ,

the center of the goods, thus: sxbgc-MC’

; ,

If the upper tension is too loose (or the lower one too tight), the lower
thread will lie straight along the under side of the goods, thus:
J'mqfi‘ "1’s": the upper thread showing in loops on the under side.
"'...._ 1" in On the contrary, ii“ the upper tension is too tight (or
the shuttle tension is too loose), the upper thread will lie straight on the
upper side of the goods, thus: “f“ the lower thread showing
in loops on the upper side. ‘-

To tighten the upper tension, turn the tension nut to the right.
To loosen the upper tension, turn the tension nut to the left.
As the shuttle tension has been set right for general work when the
machine leaves our hands, as before explained, any needed regulation of
the stitch in this respect should ordinarily be made by changing the upper
tension. If, however, when the upper tension is regulated so the lock is
in the center of the goods, both threads appear to be loose and the stitches
and seam not smooth and firm, the shuttle tension is too loose, and should
be tightened by turning the tension screw to the right (see cut, page 7),
then tighten the upper tension correspondingly.
If the under thread cannot be properly drawn up without having the
upper tension so tight that the threads break, or if when the tensions are
evenly balanced, the goods are “drawn” or “puckered” (this will occur
only in sewing very light and “slazy” fabrics), the shuttle tension is too
tight, and should be loosened by turning the shuttle tension screw to the
left; then loosen the upper tension to correspond.
The above particular explanation is given that every operator may
fully understand the principles of the tensions.
 A Sizes of Needles and Thread

22:5; 5 g . _ ; cuss or woax TO ssw s'" Mff's'iifl'l'm'"

00 Very thinhiuslin. Cambrics. Linen. etc. 058Qé°05°§ifi°¥3ggl

\, on , . . -' . . 70tolOOCotton.
CMNt—‘O

.
fine Cnhcoes. Linens.
.-
Slitrtinzs. .
{me Silk Goods. etc.
_
0 Silk Twist.

Shirtings. Sheetinzs. Bleached Muslins. Calicoes. Silk and 70 to 50 Cotton.

general domestic goods. and all classes of generalwork. A and B Silk Twist.
All kinds of heavy Calicoes. light Woolen Goods. heavy 50 to 36 Cotton.
Sllk. Seaming. Stitching. etc. C Silk Twist.
Tickings. Woolen Goods. Trousers. Boys‘ Clothing. 36to 20 Cotton.
Corsets. Cloaks. Manttcs. etc. D Silk Twist.

Use Good Needles and Thread

. Do not use poor thread or imperfect needles. Any good thread will do
good work on this machine, but you must not expect to make smooth,
even stitches with rough, uneven thread. Neither will the machine work
well with a cheap, inferior grade of needles. It is our interest to main-
tain the reputation of our machines and we can always supply the best
needles at as low prices as possible. Orders can be sent direct to us by
mail with money enclosed and will be filled promptly. When ordering
needles or parts, be sure to tell us they are for A MINNESOTA MODEL
“C” machine and give serial number of the machine.
Always use exactly the right size of needle for the thread used, as
per table above. Do not use too large a size of thread for the work. If
the thread is too coarse to be properly bedded into the fabric a smooth
even seam cannot be obtained. When sewing two thicknesses of calico or
shitting, No. 70 is stronger than the thread woven in the fabric and will
make a handsome stitch. The seam will also wear longer than if coarser
thread is used, because with coarse thread the stitches lie on top of the
fabric and are first worn away.
To Use Silk Thread—A finer needle is required for silk thread, and
for using fine silk thread the tensions should be tightened, because silk
thread, being loosely woven, will not be caught by a loose tension.
 Vi -1
Narrow Hemming
Attach the hemmer foot in place of the presser foot, taking care that it
stands true and straight with the feed. Raise the hemmer to the lowest
lift, clip off the right hand corner of the cloth and turn up the edge
about one-fourth of an inch. Insert it in the scroll (or mouth) of the
hemmer and push it forward to the needle. Then let the hemmer down
and start the machine, gently holding back on the work to keep it smooth,
allowing the edge of the goods to pass between the thumb and forefinger
of the right hand while it is being hemmed, keeping the scroll of the
hemmer just full, as it will leave a raw edge and make a rough and
clumsy hem if there is too much turned in, and too little will not turn
under. In hemming on a curve or on flannel or sluzy goods, draw gently
on the edge being hemmed, resisting the feed, and guide the work
carefully.
The stitch may be laid close to the edge of the hem, or away from it,
by setting the hemmer to or from the needle, by swinging the hemmer to
the right or left. Practice is necessary with both hemming and felling
before a neat seam can be produced.
 The foot hemmer and the feller are the same. If the hemmer is at-
tached it can be used in place of the presser foot in running up the scam,
the under edge of which should project about one-fourth of an inch beyond
the upper, then trim off the edges, if necessary, so as to leave just seam
enough to fill the feller. Open the work flat, wrong side up, and trim
the corner of the seam slightly, and then push it into the feller until it
reaches the needle, lower the feller on the feed and start the machine.
The feed will carry the seam without helping it, and makes a complete
fell from the beginning.
The feller may be adjusted to the right or left, so‘as to sew close on
the edge of the fell, or away from it as desired.
 Making Wide Hem With Hemmer and Feller
If a wider hem is desired than can be made with any of the hemmers,
proceed as follows:
Adjust the hemmer and feller as described on page 13.
Fold the cloth the Width of the hem and place the fold to the right of
the needle so that the edge of the folded part will easily enter the scroll
of the hemmer and feller. Proceed as in ordinary narrow hemming, tak-
ing care to keep the fold smooth, as shown in cut above.
 16,

Wide Hemmers
Four widths of hemmers are included in the regular set of attachments.
Remove the presser foot and attach the width of hemmer desired in
place of the foot on the presser bai, fastening it securely with the
thumb nut.
Fold the goods by hand the width of hem required, turning one fold
only, adding about one-eighth of an inch, which will be turned under by
the hemmer. Then insert the goods in the hemmer, forcing it back
until the needle will catch the edge of the goods. Lower the presser
‘foot and sew as usual. Slightly press on the goods with the two fore-
fingers of the left hand. If more cloth is required to fill the hemmer
and turn the edge properly, slightly carry the goods to the right. If too
much goods is taken, carry to the left.
The line of stitching can be adjusted to the edge of the hem by moving
ing the hemmer to the right or left.
 To Use the Tuck Marker
Raise the presser bar to its highest point. Remove the presser foot
and attach the tucker in its place so that the needle passes down through
the center of the round hole in the foot of the tucker, then fasten it
securely in this position.
To regulate the size of tuck, loosen screw A and place the gauge D for
any desired width, moving to the right for wide and to the left for
narrow tuck. _

To regulate the space between tucks: move the marker C to the left
for wide space and to the right for narrow.
The figures on the scale B show the width of tuck, and those on the
scale D the width of space.
By adjusting gauge B and gauge D so that the scale indicators will
point to the same figures it will make the tucks just meet. When the
above adjustments have been made, be sure and turn screw A down tight.
To commence tucking fold the cloth for the first tuck and place it be-
neath and under the spring lip in front of the creaser with folded edge
against the gauge D. Drop the presser foot and sew as usual.
The marker makes a crease in the cloth as it passes over the blade.
After the first tuck is completed fold the cloth on the crease and place in
the tucker again as before. Continue this operation for the required
number of tucks.
 Directions for Using the Ruffler
Remove the Eresser foot and attach the ruffler in its place on the
presser bar wit the fork of the lever over the needle nut A. Place the
goods to be gathered between the steel blades or springs. If the ruffle
is to be attached to a band, place the band below the lower blade.
To make a fine gather, shorten the stitch and turn the adjusting nut
B to its highest point.
To make plaits, turn the adjusting nut B downward to the desired
point and lengthen the stitch.
For full gathers, adjust the ruffler the same as in making plaits, using
a short stitch.
The length of the stitch should match the size of the gather or plait,
so the folds will lie even and not pile up on each other or be too far apart.
Directions for Shining—Remove the lower blade of the ruffler by
loosening the separator post screw on right side of ruffler as attached to
the machine. The lower blade of the ruffle may then be drawn forward.
Remove the shuttle slide and insert the shirring plate in its place. push-
ing it as far as it will go. Attach the upper part of the rufflcr and
insert the goods.
Never use the ruffler without either the ruffling platc‘or shirring
plate in place. Never run the machine with the ruffler on Without goods
between the steel blades, as the movement of the teeth on the upper blade
against the lower blade will dull the teeth and soon make the rufflcr
useless.
The ruffler properly attached to the machine is clearly shown in the
above illustration. <
 "
. . quilter is attache bye
1Th‘e
presser bar made for? if
1,111 the
we ‘

-Acljust it to the right orleft,

1

the lines of'sititchiag.l’1‘asten it by a;

1-presser bar, having the, guide01: flat n.
enough above the bed ofthemachme allow
werk under, it.
_ 1

iGuide the work so thatthe lastline of stitchm «will, directly 1.111in

1 _, _ p ‘ ‘

the fiat‘ part of the qu1lter. This will makethehires 01 Stitching 131
fectly'straig“ht “andequal id1stancésapart. 1 . 1“ ,

Attach the Bmder

Raise the needie to itshighest point,‘re“1flo1e the presser foot and attach fflf
‘ the binder-in its place on the: presser bar,fastening. it securely With the
_
_ .

thurnb nut. The. small end of the scroll of the15155511 shouldtest 0111114
? . - ‘

needleplate With theupperscroll of the binder 011.11 line?with the needle 7

To
lib Rias Bmdingf
Pass thebinding»through. the scroll of the binder and draw it back
under the needle. Place the edge of the material to be bound bets;eenthe
'

“upper and lower scrolls, then owerthe presser bar andsew. as muss,
Guide the‘ cloth with the. left hand, and let the binding glide;easily]-
through the fingers of; the r1ght*hand to keep itstraight; If t e stitching"
1~

"” ’-should be too near or too far from the edgeof the binding. the binder can
_

5g maved to the rightor left, until exactly right. For bias binding, good
'_of any description canbe used and the" binding should becut seven».
.

f.
ei hts of an inch Wide, and uniform in width.
:

verylight “sissy" material18 usedwe bindin should be cut alittle

‘
1
1 ,

'_wider than seven.eigntbs of an inch in order to h e theedgesproperly":

.. f
t

turned under. '

Ordinary; dress birding can he used inthe binder, 31111111 same method
1
_
-

as
1
described above ,Whe"1i suchbindmg is used theedge” of the binding;
will11 be tame. under. t