MODULE 3

WIND AND WAVES GENERATION

MEMBERS :
BRIZ
KAAMINO
LIMPIADO
MENDOZA
REAL
VELASQUEZ
Wind Waves
Characteristics
1.1
oint
Wave Generation
Wave Generation
Process
•Complex patterns in sea
surface and wind field.
•Energy and momentum
transfer from wind to
waves.
•Different phenomena:
wave growth, breaking
oint
 oint
Wave Generation
Pressure Fluctuations
and Wave Growth
•Initial wave undulations
and surface currents.
•Phillips' resonance
model (1957, 1960).
•Interaction between
pressure fluctuations and
free waves.
 oint
Phillips' resonance model (1957, 1960).
 oint
Momentum Transfer Mechanism
Shear Flow Wave
Generation
•Momentum transfer
mechanism proposed by
Miles (1957).
•Description of shear flow
and its role in wave
growth.
•Importance as wave
 oint
Beyond Resonance and Shear Flow

Shear Flow Pattern and Growth

• Shear force and wind flow separation
contribute to wave growth.
•Nonlinear wave-wave interactions enhance
wind wave spectrum.
1.2 Typical
Wave
Wind
Record
Overview of a common
surface-piercing wave gauge in a region
with active wave generation. Distinction
between surface elevation plotted against
time and horizontal distance for irregular
wind waves.
Wave Record
Characteristics
This recorded surface
time history includes
waves traveling in
various directions which
would produce a different
mix of waves at the point
a short distance away.
Wave Record
Characteristics
it consists of individual
Waves having different
periods and celerities so
components that travel in
the same direction will
still have a different mix a
short distance away.
What?
What?
What?
two basic approaches to analyzing a

SURFACE WAVE
RECORD
 SURFACE WAVE
RECORD
The most often used
representative wave height
from this distribution of wave
heights is commonly called the
significant height (H^). This
representative statistical
parameter was
introduced by Sverdrup and
The Wave-by-Wave
Analysis:
oint
•Identification of individual
wave heights and periods.
•Emphasis on statistical
analysis, focusing on extreme
wave heights.
•Introduction of the concept of
"significant height (H^)" and
"significant period (T^)."
 oint
The Fourier Analysis:
•Assumption that the recorded
surface profile comprises
sinusoidal components of
varying frequency and phase.
•Introduction of
one-dimensional wave
spectrum and the potential
for a two-dimensional or
directional spectrum with
measurements at multiple
points.
What?
What?
What?
What?
What?
What?
two methods
reflect dual
features of
sea waves:
•nonlinearit
y
1.3 Understanding
Wave Growth
and Decay in
Storm
Conditions
 oint
Key Factors Influencing
Wave Characteristics:

•Wind velocity (U)

•Fetch length (F)
•Wind duration (f^)
 oint
Wave Generation and Propagation:

• Waves are generated with varying

propagation directions, influenced by wind
dynamics and topography.
• Longer average wave periods occur when
waves travel in the direction of the wind,
decreasing as waves move obliquely.
• Fetch width influences the percentage of
wave energy retained, affecting average
wave height.
 Influence of Water
Depth:
• Shallow water depths limit
non-breaking wave heights.
•Bottom friction, percolation,
and bed movement dissipate
wave energy, affecting the rate
of wave growth and ultimate
height.
Temperature
Effects :
• The ratio of air to water
temperature affects
atmospheric stability,
influencing the air velocity
profile in the boundary layer
and, consequently,
wave-generating
mechanisms.
Wind Field
Variability:
• No storm has a constant wind
velocity.
• Wind fields can be irregular
and complex, impacting wave
generation.
• For simplicity, constant velocity
is often assumed over a fixed
fetch length for wave
Wave Growth and
Decay:
• Schematic depiction of
wave growth in the wind
direction.
•Fetch-limited and
duration-limited conditions.
What?
What?
What?
Insight from Wave
Spectra:
• Typical wave spectra at
successive points along the
fetch.
• Peak period and total energy
density growth along the fetch.
• Influence of wave breaking
and wave-wave interaction on
energy distribution.
What?
What?
What?
1.4 Special Energy Balance Equation
represent the energy input from the wind Sin,
the nonlinear energy transfer from one
frequency to another by wave-wave
interactions Snl, and the energy dissipation
Sds
The propagation operator
which defines spectral wave
growth as a function of TIme
and space. On the right-hand
side, Cg is the wave group
celerity and S(f , theta) is the
directional wave spectrum.
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 WAVE RECORD ANALYSIS
FOR
HEIGHT AND PERIOD DISTRIBUTIONS
 Wave Height Distribution
➢ A typical point wind wave record will look like the
surface elevation versus time plot given in Figure
6.1. But in order to formalize repeatable
procedures that is statistically meaningful, for
defining individual waves, the plot given by figure
6.5 will make it more specific.
➢ Figure 6.5 demonstrates the zero-upcrossing
procedure. This figure shows a typical measured
water surface elevation as a function of elapsed
time. A mean water surface elevation is
determined from the record and then each point
➢ A field wave record from a storm, containing say a hundred waves
or more, would be analyzed to determine the individual wave
heights and the results might be plotted as a height-frequency
distribution. This would typically yield the distribution shown in
Figure 6.6
➢ Other representative wave heights are often used. The
root-mean-square height is

➢ Longuet-Higgins (1952) demonstrated that a Rayleigh

distribution best defines the distribution of wave heights in a
storm.
➢ For our purposes the Rayleigh distribution may be written
 ➢ where Hms is used to give a base magnitude to the
distribution. The cumulative probability distribution
P(H) (i.e., the percentage of waves having a height
equal to or less than H) is given by

➢ Of greater interest to us is the percentage of waves

having a height greater than a given height or
➢ Thus, 1 - P(H) represents the area under the p(H)
versus H curve to the right of the given H value (see
Fig. 6.6).
➢ Figure 6.7 Rayleigh distribution for wave heights
(adapted from U.S. Army Coastal Engineering
Research Center, 1984).
 Maximum Wave Height
➢ The Rayleigh distribution has no upper bound; as n
decreases toward zero, Hmax increases toward
infinity. In a storm, the limit on n would be dictated
by the number of waves in the storm.

➢ where N is the number of waves and y is Euler's

constant (0.5772). For a large number of waves, Eq.
6.5 reduces to
 Nearshore Wave Height
Distribution

➢ The distribution of wave heights in the nearshore

region is important, for example,As waves shoal, the
surface profile vertical asymmetry increases so the
surface elevation distribution becomes increasingly
non-Gaussian.
➢ Several authors have developed wave height distributions that
modify the Rayleigh distribution to account for wave shoaling and
breaking.

❖ Collins (1970) & Battjes (1972)

❖ Ibrageemov (1973)
❖ Kuo and Kuo (1974) and Goda (1975)
❖ Hughes and Borgman (1987)
 Distribution of Wave Height
and Period
➢ Longuet-Higgins (1975) presents an analytical formulation of
the probability distribution of wave periods for a narrow
banded spectrum with Gaussian surface elevations.

➢ Based on empirical data the U. S. Army Coastal

Engineering Research Center (1984) recommends the
relationship Ts = 0.95 Tp.
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WIND WAVE SPECTRA
 Wave Spectra
Characteristic
➢ Wave spectra are used by
oceanographers to describe the
distribution of energy at different
frequencies. The form of the
spectrum can be related to wind
speed and direction and the duration
of the storm and the fetch
According to Philips (1958) they carried out a
dimensional analysis for this equilibrium range and
found that for deep water waves it should have
the form given by:
The low-frequency (longer wave length) portion of the wave
spectrum has not grown to the saturated or equilibrium condition.
Continued growth of the spectrum causes the saturated portion to
expand into the unsaturated portion and a progressive decrease of
the peak frequency.
 Spectral Moments
➢ The moments of a wave spectrum
are important in characterizing the
spectrum and useful in relating the
spectral description of waves to the
wave-by-wave
One Dimensional Wave
A one-dimensional traveling wave at one
instance of time t. This is the simplest example
of a traveling wave. You can make waves of
different shapes by moving your hand up and
down in different patterns, for example an
upward bump followed by a dip, or two bumps
Directional Wave Spectra
The directional spectrum S(k) [or S(f,
θ)] measures the distribution of wave energy in
wave number, k, (or frequency, f) and direction.
Different contributions to local wave energy, e.g.,
swell from distant storms and locally
wind-generated waves, can be identified in a
measurement of the directional spectrum
WAVE GROUPING
WAVE GROUPING
WAVE PREDICTION
WIND CONDITIONS
Wave conditions refer to the state of the waves
in a body of water, such as an ocean, sea, lake,
or river. These conditions are influenced by
various factors, including wind speed and
direction, the depth of the water, the shape of
the coastline, and the presence of any obstacles
or structures.
Key aspects of wave conditions include:
1.Wave Height: This is the vertical distance between the
highest point (crest) and the lowest point (trough) of a
wave. Wave height is often measured in meters or feet.
2.Wave Period: This is the time it takes for one complete
cycle of a wave to pass a specific point. It is usually
measured in seconds.
3.Wave Frequency: This is the number of waves passing
a fixed point in a given amount of time. It is the
reciprocal of the wave period and is measured in hertz
(Hz).
4.Wave Direction: The direction from which the waves
are coming. It is often expressed in degrees relative to
true north.
5.Wave Shape: Waves can have various shapes,
including choppy waves, swell (more organized and
consistent waves), and breaking waves.
Key aspects of wave conditions include:
1.Wind Conditions: Wind is a major factor influencing
wave conditions. Strong winds can create larger and
more turbulent waves, while calm winds result in smaller
waves.
2.Fetch: The uninterrupted distance over which wind
blows without a significant change in direction. A longer
fetch often leads to larger and more developed waves.

Understanding wave conditions is crucial for various

activities, such as navigation, recreational water sports,
and coastal engineering. Mariners, surfers, and coastal
planners, for example, closely monitor wave conditions
to ensure safety and make informed decisions. Wave
conditions can also be predicted and monitored using
various tools and technologies, including weather buoys,
satellites, and computer models.
Early wave prediction methods involve using
various techniques to forecast wave conditions in
advance. These predictions are valuable for
marine operations, coastal planning, and
recreational activities. Here are some early wave
prediction methods:
EARLY WAVE PREDICTION METHOD
Early wave prediction methods involve using various techniques to
forecast wave conditions in advance. These predictions are
valuable for marine operations, coastal planning, and recreational
activities. Here are some early wave prediction methods:

1.Empirical Methods: These methods rely on statistical

relationships derived from historical wave data. By analyzing past
wave conditions and correlating them with meteorological factors
(such as wind speed and duration), researchers can develop
empirical models to predict future wave conditions. However, these
methods are limited by the assumption that future conditions will
resemble past patterns.

2.Numerical Weather Prediction Models: Numerical models

simulate the behavior of the atmosphere and oceans based on
mathematical equations. These models take into account various
meteorological factors, including wind patterns, air pressure, and
temperature, to predict wave conditions. Models like the
WAVEWATCH III model are commonly used for wave forecasting.
3.Satellite Observations: Satellites equipped with altimeters and
other sensors can provide valuable data for monitoring and
predicting wave conditions. Altimeters measure sea surface height,
which can be used to estimate wave height. Combining satellite
observations with numerical models enhances the accuracy of wave
predictions.

4.Buoy Data: Ocean buoys equipped with sensors collect real-time

data on wave conditions, including wave height, period, and
direction. This data is essential for validating and improving wave
prediction models. Buoys are often strategically placed in key
oceanic regions to provide comprehensive coverage.

5.Wave Rider Buoys: These specialized buoys are designed to

measure wave characteristics more directly. They are equipped with
sensors that can measure the motion of the buoy caused by
passing waves, providing accurate information on wave height,
period, and direction.

6.Wave Forecasting Websites and Apps: Many meteorological

agencies and organizations provide wave forecasts through
WAVE PREDICTION USING SPECTRAL MODEL
Wave prediction using spectral models is a sophisticated approach
that involves representing the sea surface as a sum of sinusoidal
components with different frequencies and amplitudes. These
models are based on the concept of wave spectra, which provides a
distribution of wave energy as a function of frequency. One widely
used spectral wave model is the WAVEWATCH III model. Here's an
overview of how spectral models work for wave prediction:

1. Wave Spectra: In spectral models, the sea surface is

represented by a range of waves with different frequencies and
directions. The wave energy is distributed across these frequencies,
forming a wave spectrum. The spectrum describes the
characteristics of the waves, including their height, period, and
direction.

2.Wave Equation: The evolution of the wave spectrum is governed

by the wave equation, which takes into account the nonlinear
interactions among different wave components. The wave equation
is a set of mathematical equations that describes how the
3.Numerical Discretization: To solve the wave equation, numerical
methods are used to discretize space and time. The computational
grid is divided into cells, and the evolution of the wave spectrum is
calculated at each grid point over successive time steps.

4.Wind Input: Wind is a crucial factor influencing wave

development. Spectral models incorporate wind input data to
simulate the transfer of energy from the atmosphere to the ocean
surface. Wind information, such as speed and direction, is used to
calculate the growth and decay of waves.

5.Wave Breaking and Dissipation: Spectral models also account

for wave breaking, which occurs when waves become too steep
and unstable. Breaking waves result in the dissipation of wave
energy. The model includes parameterizations to represent this
process.
6.Boundary Conditions: Spectral wave models consider the
boundaries of the computational domain, including coastlines and
open ocean boundaries. These conditions influence how waves
propagate and interact with the shoreline.

7.Validation: Spectral models are validated using observational

data from buoys, satellites, and other sources. Model results are
compared with real-world measurements to assess the accuracy of
the predictions.

The WAVEWATCH III model, for instance, is a third-generation

spectral wave model widely used for wave forecasting. It has been
developed collaboratively by several institutions and is employed by
many meteorological and oceanographic agencies around the
world. It can provide forecasts for various wave parameters,
including significant wave height, peak wave period, and wave
direction.
LIMITED FETCH WITDH
"Fetch" refers to the distance over which the wind blows
consistently in a single direction across a body of water.
The term "limited fetch width" typically implies that the
area over which the wind is acting to generate waves is
constrained or restricted in width. Fetch width is an
important factor in determining the size and
characteristics of waves.

Understanding fetch width is crucial in wave forecasting

and marine activities. It helps predict the likely wave
conditions in a given area based on wind patterns and
the characteristics of the body of water. Areas with a
limited fetch width, such as coastal zones or small lakes,
may experience different wave dynamics compared to
open ocean areas with expansive fetch.
RAPIDLY MOVING STORMS
Rapidly moving storms refer to weather systems, typically
characterized by low-pressure systems or cyclones, that are moving
swiftly across a region. These storms can cover large distances in a
relatively short period, bringing significant changes in weather
conditions as they progress.

Key characteristics of rapidly moving storms:

1.High Wind Speeds: Rapidly moving storms are often associated
with strong winds. The speed of the storm's movement adds to the
overall wind speed experienced at the surface. This can result in
gusty conditions and potentially cause damage, especially in severe
storms.

2.Quick Changes in Weather: As the storm moves rapidly, it can

bring about rapid changes in weather conditions. Clear skies can
quickly turn cloudy, and calm conditions can give way to strong
winds and precipitation. This can make it challenging for people in
the storm's path to anticipate and prepare for changing weather.
3.Limited Duration of Impact: While rapidly moving storms
can bring intense weather conditions, their relatively swift
movement means that the duration of impact in any given
location is relatively short compared to slower-moving weather
systems. The intensity of the storm is often concentrated in a
shorter timeframe.

4.Less Time for Preparation: Because these storms move

quickly, there is less time for people in their path to prepare.
This can pose challenges for emergency management and
response efforts, as there may be limited lead time for issuing
warnings and for individuals to take protective measures.

5.Frontal Systems: Some rapidly moving storms are

associated with frontal boundaries, where air masses with
different temperatures and humidity levels meet. These frontal
systems can lead to the development of storms with rapid
It's important to note that not all rapidly
moving storms are severe, and their
impact can vary widely depending on
factors such as the strength of the
storm, the geography of the affected
area, and the time of year.
Meteorologists use various tools,
including weather satellites and
computer models, to track the
movement of storms and provide
timely forecasts and warnings to the
public.
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