concludes his masterclass in
scratchbuilding
10
DOORS AND WINDOWS Indeed, I soldered the window frames in the open position (214).
The file containing the windows shapes and dimensions was sent Then I added the interior coverings, for which I used thin black
to 4D Modelshop and a set of three cuts arrived (210), each cut styrene, as the coverings are also black on the real plane. The
leaving a different gap between the windows themselves and their coverings were modelled on a brass template door purposefully
frames, so that the best should be chosen. I peeled off the made; then transferred at their respective places on both doors
protective films and aided by a piece of masking tape (211) I (215). The doors interior detailing was done at this point (216),
positioned them; before gluing, I checked with a straightedge that ashtrays and door operating levers being part of it.
they were exactly flush with the fuselage sides. Thin CA was The finished doors are illustrated in (217). The starboard door was
sparingly used and precisely applied, whilst the interior was to be fitted in the open position, so the door hold-open strut (seen
allowed to ventilate following each window application, the extended in photo 216) was actually glued on the fuselage where
airbrush being a handy tool to do this quickly. a much stronger cementing could be made.
I turned my attention to the cockpit side windows which are The cabin entry door was the last item to be modelled as the
located within the cockpit doors structure. These are not flat but a doors are concerned. As mentioned above, the door rear half was
bit bulged, so I sanded the examples I had in hand (212) to make ‘left’ slightly open, just enough for tweezers to pull out the door so
them look like the real thing. Then I added the window opening that the cabin interior might be seen. Some exterior and a lot of
handles, and got ready for the doors themselves. interior detailing was carried out here as well (218), and the door
The doors were designed with the window frames as a separate was painted as the rest of the interior with the exception of its
item (213), giving me the choice to open the windows if I wished. surrounding frame which was painted in interior green FS34151.
212
210 211
213
214 215 216
217 218
THE LANDING GEAR
219 222 The landing gear came about as a function of the spare time
found between more important aspects of this built, or when the
everyday obligations left just enough time to do something in the
workshop. So its construction spanned the best part of six
months, however it is included here as a complete chapter for the
benefit of the reader.
The oleo strut aerodynamic fairings or spats were the first parts to
deal with. Initially, the side profile of the spats was cut in styrene
(219) and was sandwiched between two Chemiwood resin blocks
(per spat -220), acting as a centre line guide so that the blocks
220 could be equally sanded laterally. The sanding was performed
223 under continuous vacuuming (221), so as to avoid inhaling the
dust and powder produced. I realized the need to couple the two
spats into a single unit so as to achieve a more uniform
appearance especially where the spats would later meet their
upper counterparts under the nacelles. As usual I sealed off the
221 porous surface with CA glue (222) and applied a base coat of
Hycote primer filler putty (223), and repeated with the finer Mr.
Surfacer 1200. I marked a line indicating the location of the oleo
224 struts inside the spats. It is an important one as the oleo struts
themselves would meet their upper structural members in the
nacelles at these exact points; and the wheel axles at their lower
ends (224). Then the space which accommodated the
mainwheels was carved out, first by drilling (225) and then by
225 smoothing with a cylindrical bit on the minitool.
Apart from scribing and riveting carried out later the spats were
drilled at the points where the oleo struts enter the nacelles. This
was done with a hand drill (226) prior to fitting the struts and 11
wheels in place.
226
227
230
228 229
233 234
231 232
WHEELS AND TYRES to allow for a brass rod to be inserted and soldered. I cleaned the
I started working with one main tyre (yes, one only, which was cut excess material and made four holes through which the wheel
in half to make two ‘lower’ halves) from a piece of black styrene axles would pass. Cutting this in half (231), I obtained one pair of
(227), which was mounted on a spare minitool sanding disk axle. struts and forks. I installed each half-wheel into its respective fork,
Then it was rolled and cut in a lathe fashion (228) and checked inserted the brass axle and I punched its ends (232) making small
frequently as it was approaching its correct diameter. Then I extractions which kept everything in place. No glue was used as
smoothed it with foam sanding block and scribed the three the wheels should be left free to rotate at least until the model
grooves (229) using the back of an X-Acto No11 blade. The end could stand correctly on the table.
result is seen in (230) just prior to, and following the fitting of the Using a needle file I enlarged the hole through which the struts
wheel hub which consisted of three concentric rings (styrene would pass and gently pushed the assemblies into place (233),
tube). Actually the innermost rings were two, one for each half the struts emerging from the top of the spats, ready for installation
tyre, in order to provide a sound basis for a fourth aluminium under the nacelles.
bushing which would accept the brass wheel axle. Moving on to the tailwheel, this was modelled in quite the same
I turned my attention to the struts and the forks which support the way as can be seen in (234).
half wheels. I used a rectangular section brass tube which I drilled
237
236
235
The wheel hub, yoke and support strut were made of brass (235). On the real
plane, the support strut is a carbon-fibre affair which acts as a shock absorber as
well; its semi-circular cross-section was duplicated here as well. I used a piece of
half-sectioned brass tube into which I embedded a nickel silver pin (235b) using
the nail-fix powder/CA mix; this would be inserted to its location in the tail cone.
The tailwheel was fixed in place (236); however some more details remained to
be added, mainly the self-centring lever and spring, which were dealt with using
again the between-the-steps spare time!
The Do28D-2 stands on the ground at an angle of approx. 10 degrees (artificial 238
horizon reading), when the oleo struts are properly serviced and the plane is
unloaded. In order to get this angle, I made a triangle jig from foam board and
dry-fitted the nacelles under the fuselage, and the spats in place. I sanded the
mainwheels to indicate the airplane-on-ground weight; I checked, marked, and
then removed the portion not needed (237) from the nacelles strut fairings.
When I reached the angle of 10o (238), I checked the main gear from the front
(239) to see the correct wheeltrack of 73.5mm (3.52m. on the real plane).
Profoundly happy with the results, then and only then, I cemented the main gear
in place, removed the nacelles and continued the build.
12
239
PAINTING camouflage pattern, peculiar to 4087 only. Subsequently the same
Although painting a model in the well-known TAC South-East Asia aircraft was repainted (with a different pattern of course!), and flew
colour scheme may seem common, it is the pattern of certain on until its decommissioning and eventual scrapping at its home
aircraft types which more often than not is not specified, and can base in 112 Combat Wing at Eleusis.
lead to differences between aircraft of the same type within a Having these photos handy, I drew the pattern on the plans and
squadron. This was the case with the Do28D-2 back in the then painted the model. Prior to painting, I fabricated a means of
eighties, when the aircraft were repainted to their new TAC holding it, a small base made of foam board (242) which made
scheme then commonplace within the Hellenic Air Force. No two my life a bit easier. I used the TAC scheme colours from the
airplanes were the same, but all followed a vague rule as to where Xtracolor enamels range, X102 (FS10219), X110 (FS14079), X116
to apply the tan or the greens. As the former Luftwaffe colour (FS14102) and X140 (FS16622). I used an Iwata Custom Micron B
scheme was left behind, so did a small number of aircraft; non- airbrush, which did a sterling job with the colour demarcation lines;
flying examples which were not painted but still providing spare and a much-needed one (243) as the photographs showed
parts to the ones still in use. exactly where to apply each colour. For the nacelles panels still in
The Skyservants could be seen flying the country, with panels still the Luftwaffe camouflage scheme I used Xtracolor X251 (RAL6014
in the old and faded colours, a complete modelling challenge! gelboliv -FS14064), X254 (RAL7012 basaltgrau -FS16152) and
That was the case when, as a young mechanic working for Alclad’s ALC101 Aluminum as RAL9006 (FS17178), where
Olympic Aviation at the Athens International Airport at Hellinicon, I appropriate. For the airfoil de-icer boots and anti-glare panel, I
came across the Do28D-2 c/n 4087, parked on the apron an early used Tamiya’s excellent XF-69 NATO black, following the masking
morning (240), which was destined to be my scratchbuilt project of the previously painted surfaces (244). I altered the hue of the
32 years later. It was October 1989, and having my camera always Xtracolor paints towards a lighter note, as a means of pre-
at the ready I did some walk-around photography, (…myself weathering the model, without whatsoever falling outside the
included, 241) and came up with a more or less complete colour envelope.
240
241
242 243
244
247
245 246
DECALLING out of business- Icarus Decals decal sheet for the T-33A and the
Throughout its service life within the Hellenic Air Force the Do28D- fin flash decals from the relevant decal sheet for the F.1CG, of the
2 was repainted at least once. Excluding the non-flying examples, same maker (245).
the operational ones also saw changes to their national insignias, Following the repainting of 4087 in the TAC scheme, the roundel
both in colour and diameter. It was the diameter of the insignias, colours were painted in FS15102, which the intense Greek sunlight
rather than their colour which initially caught my attention. Roundel quickly turned to a light greyish blue (246), close enough to
masks of smaller diameter used on T-33A Shooting Stars were FS35450. As the faded hue was also included in the
initially chosen by the Hellenic Air Force paintshops. The fin flash aforementioned decal sheets, I used it on the wing topsides,
masks came from the Mirage F.1CG set of masks. Improvisation fuselage and vertical stabilizer sides, to simulate the effect of the
at its best, this soon gave way to a bit larger, probably custom sun-beaten surfaces of the real plane. I applied the darker
made roundels but the fin flash dimensions were retained until the roundels (FS15102) on the wings undersurface (247) to indicate
type’s retirement from service. Be that as it may, I chose the -now the difference.
13
250
248 249
What is really astonishing is the stencilling of the Do.28D-2. The German fashion as well- straight back from those old Noratlas
aircraft was bristling with stencils which, in typical German fashion days, which caused a bit more work. I drew the fuselage numbers
were meticulously applied. Nevertheless, upon arrival in Greece, on the computer over a photo of the films taken in 1989, so as to
these niceties soon gave way to a stencilling mix-up, consisting of get the shape of the numbers and the distance between them
Americanized applications, or masked-over German old stencils (248) as accurately as possible. Then I printed them on a clear
prior to application of the new TAC scheme, or fresh-made stencil piece of acetate (249) and checked them on the model; I made
masks dedicated to the Skyservant. It all depended on who was certain that when printed in decal form they would fit correctly,
painting what on the aircraft but in the end no stencil was spared fore and aft of the roundel. Satisfied, I went on with the printing
from its surfaces. Searching and examining the photos at hand, I and applying the decals, in it a routine matter.
was able to recreate what was stencilled on the aircraft, in 1/48th, On the vertical fin sides the construction number was applied as a
at least most of it. A lot of stencils were made on my computer serial number. A closer look revealed three (!) different buzz-
and printed, whilst the most demanding were custom-printed in number characters (250) joined together to make the number. I
unquestionably high quality by Procal Decals did not entirely succeed into duplicating it; nevertheless it still
(info@procaldecals.gr). indicates what mix-and-match was going on when painting an
Finally it was the aircraft’s construction number, also allocated as aircraft these days…
its individual number, painted on the fuselage sides -in typical
251 252
253
254 255
256
WEATHERING a scrap piece of plastic before applying to your newest project. I
As mentioned above, the weathering started by altering the added the decals and stencils and proceeded with airbrushing the
colours in the first place. This produced a lighter version of the Xtracolor XDFF Flat Varnish (252). Following the thorough drying of
basic scheme over which I performed an initial wash. I used the the varnish I intensified the weathering, adding oil and fluid streaks
old but proven method of artist’s oils, which never failed me; I on the nacelles (253) consulting the photos taken in 1989 (254).
mixed black with raw umber, thinned it down and lightly airbrushed As the nacelle topsides are difficult to reach, all weathering was
on the model, working over one area at a time. Then I wiped clean done before they cemented to the fuselage, however the exhaust
with a soft napkin moistened in thinners leaving a bit of dirt on the stains (255) and the rest of the fuselage underside weathering
model (251) while simultaneously bringing out its surface details. was done after the assemblies were joined. The oil stains
This was done directly on the freshly-painted model which of application followed closely the photos taken as seen on the port
course had been left aside for days, to dry thoroughly; the elevator (256). I finished the weathering with Tamiya weathering
Xtracolor enamels are gloss and when completely dry, can sustain pastels, applied sparingly at places to give the model a bit more
this treatment without peeling off, nevertheless do experiment on faded appearance.
14
STEP 7: JOINING THE ASSEMBLIES
The long-awaited moment had finally arrived. Both
assemblies were ready to be joined (257) with one or two
last minute details to be taken care of. The fuselage cut-out
was cleaned of residue and I did a bit of dry-fitting as well
(258). It is worth mentioning here that the Do28D-2 nacelles
are positioned at a downward attitude in relation to the
fuselage horizontal axis so a thin styrene wedge was
inserted in the fuselage cut-out, to assist the positioning. I
measured the wingtips-to-ground clearances to be equal
(259) and verified by checking on the elevators (260). Given
the small size of the model no allowances were accepted,
as they could be instantly visible on the finished thing.
I went on with the gluing of the assembly.
The stub-wing-to-fuselage fairings were not glued however,
so as not to mar the painted areas. It was not needed
anyway as the fit of them left no ground for doubt. I sealed
the seams with a bit of Milliput (261), and went over the
257 whole procedure (262) for the last time (on this model at
least!). I scribed the details, and airbrushed the model
following a careful masking. I let the spraying to coat the
stub-wings adjoining areas to the fuselage (263); thus the
upcoming weathering process helped me to make the area
look as if it was always a single unit (see also photo 255).
258 259 260
261 262 263
15
265 266
264
PROPELLERS carved from styrene (264). It was sent for copying in resin and
To many a modeller, the propellers are certainly terra incognita when the copies arrived they were cut (265) and sanded to the
due to lack of specific knowledge or simply because one may length required. Then I used two concentric rings made from
never get into trouble researching with the same vigour as when Evergreen styrene tubes plus a metal one (266) to make the
sweating over the differences between an MG151/20 and an hubs.
MG151/15 in …1/72… Next I drew a template on a piece of black styrene on which I
Being a firm believer of the equal amount of searching for every aligned the hubs (267) and drilled them at the points where the
facet of the model one builds, be that historical or technical, I did blades would be attached. Using the same tool (268) I glued the
my usual search on the Skyservant’s propellers and came up with blades in place. I fabricated a spinner using a bit of Chemiwood
rather interesting results, especially concerning their stencilling. (269) rolled on the minitool. Then I used it as a master to heat-
The Do28D-2 is equipped with a pair of Hartzell HC-B3W30-2B form two spinners from thin pieces of styrene, pinned under a
three-blade, constant speed, clockwise rotating aluminum balsa plank (270); three or four copies were made (271).
propellers measuring 93.5” in diameter. The hubs are faired by The best were chosen and filled with Milliput White (272), then cut
aluminum spinners, each measuring 462, 78mm in length and and trimmed to their final shapes. I placed the spinners into a hole
358,14mm in diameter. Their distance from ground is recorded as of equal diameter on a circle template (273) and determined the
being 60cm, while the distance of blades from the fuselage is exact location of the hole where the propeller axle should be
24cm. The above plus a bit more helped in correctly determining inserted so that the spinners could be accurately glued to the
the blade dimensions in 1/48th and thus a master blade was hubs mentioned earlier.
267 268 269
270 271 272 273
I removed the excess Milliput (274) to make space for the hubs logo (the one used by the maker in the eighties) and printed it in
and the blade shanks. decal form. At some time during the type’s service with the H.A.F.
Next I positioned the axles (brass tubes) on a hand drill (275), this changed; domestic maintenance facilities were granted the
finger-tightened the chuck and used the tool’s front face as a approval to inspect and overhaul the propellers, a fact which
guide (276) to properly attach and cement the assemblies onto consequently affected the labelling on the propeller blades (280),
the former. Both propellers were given a coat of Mr Surfacer 1200 as can be clearly seen on the aircraft now residing in the Hellenic
(277) prior to their masking and painting. With the aid of the Air Force Museum.
punch-and-die tool, I cut masks to cover the spinner (278) and
start painting. The blade sides facing the spinners were painted in
a silvery grey, which was the result of mixing a light grey lacquer
274
with a small amount of aluminium metallic lacquer. The sides
facing the engines were airbrushed in black. Then the blade anti-
ice rubber strips were painted in Tamiya’s XF-69 NATO Black. The
spinners were painted in RAL7012 ‘basaltgrau’, a leftover from the
Skyservant’s Luftwaffe days.
I finished the propellers by applying their logo and relevant
stencilling. Initially the propellers were adorned with the Hartzell
logo on their blades (279- inset). Building the model as was seen
and photographed on October 1989 I searched for the correct
16
275 276 277
278
280
279
LAST DETAILS Moving on to the wing centre section topside, I used photo-etched
Almost at the end of the build, but still some way to go, I dealt parts to simulate the four wing lifting lugs (285), which along with
with an array of small details which nonetheless boring to make, the relevant stencilling on the area are real attention getters. The
enhanced the appearance of the model and helped in whatsoever twin elements of the UHF homing antenna (white-painted Strutz
doing away from an otherwise -even more boring- camouflage aerofoil-shaped brass lengths) as well as the insulated entry point
scheme. of the ADF sense aerial (nylon thread) are also seen in the picture.
Starting from the nose, I modelled the Collins combined VHF/UHF On the wingtips, I used the Little-Cars coloured lenses (286) to
antenna; I carved a piece of thin styrene to the appropriate shape, make the position lights (as they are referred to in the flight
I did not paint it (281) so as to keep its surface as smooth as manual) and I added the light refraction transparencies (which
possible, and applied the Collins logo inverted, as the antenna is - help the flight crew to ascertain the functioning of the lights) using
actually- inverted. clear acetate.
I opened the battery compartment and fabricated the battery and On all trailing edges I added the static dischargers (287-288),
its DC leads, a rare opportunity to do so on a models’ exterior simulated by lengths of nylon thread attached with CA glue.
(282), this equipment being usually associated with the interior On the tail unit some more red-painted details are included; a red
detailing. The very location of the battery compartment also line on the rudder trim tab (289) indicating the positioning of the
explains the difference in shape of the starboard fairing protractor instrument which checks the tab correct deflections, a
immediately above, in relation to the port side one. red circle indicating the location of the hole for the gust locking
A far more delicate work was the positioning of the windshield device external component, and the red pointer on the elevator
heating thermistors and the windshield wipers. The former are leading edge which points toward the red dot on the fuselage
simple strips of Bare-Metal foil (chrome and copper) while the when the elevator is at zero degrees.
latter (283) are assembled from photo-etched spares directly on Finally a replacement cabin entry door rear half as seen on the
the windshields. real 40-87 (290, on the right) was simulated on the model as well,
The first officer’s door was glued in the open position (284), using bringing it one more step closer to the era of colourful mix and
the hold-open strut as a means of supporting it; being a length of match which always make a subject more interesting to us
Albion Alloys nickel-silver tube, it certainly helps a lot to keep the modellers.
door safe from braking out of position.
281 282 283 284
285 286 287
290
288 289
17
CONCLUSION
As there are still a lot of hitherto unreleased modelling subjects
to choose from, even within the post-war aviation era as the
Skyservant indicates, it is only a bit of modelling vigour needed to
build something from scratch. Given the advancement in
modelling materials, techniques, easiness in researching through
the web, and personal modelling experience, a subject hitherto
unattainable even in the non-so distant past may nowadays
become a reality, and a star in the showcase.
18
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I must sincerely thank the usual suspects without
them this model would be but a summer night’s
dream. Yiannis Sagiadinos
(www.ysmasterpices.com), for his copying in resin
the flaps and propeller blades of the Skyservant.
Also Michael Skoularikos BIBLIOGRAPHY
(scoomixx@gmail.com) for his ability to 1. Avions magazine, issue 41 (August ’96).
translate a demanding drawing like an aircraft 2. Avions magazine, issue 42 (September ’96).
fuselage in photo-etched form, and Orestis 3. Avions magazine, issue 43 (October ’96).
Petroutsopoulos, the man behind Procal 4. F40 Flugzeuge Der Bundeswehr Ausgabe Nr.35, ‘Do28 – 228 ‘,
Decals (info@procaldecals.gr), for his excellent Siegfried Wache, 1999.
work on the stencils made for the Skyservant. 5. IPMS-Greece quarterly magazine, issue 2-95, April 1995.
Last but certainly not least, Dimosthenes 6. Do28D Flight Manual, November 1985, (www.flight-manuals-
Chouliaras for his meticulous and highly online.com, 2017).
detailed photography of the Hellenic Air Force 7. Lycoming IGO-IGSO-540, Operator’s Manual, 60297-15 (third
Museum exhibits, as if he was to build the edition).
Do28D-2 for himself! 8. Hartzell Propeller Inc., Application Guide, Manual 159 (Rev.71).
19
