Unit- III

Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical

Assignment on:
Formulation building bocks for different product of cosmetics/
cosmaceutical

Submitted to: Submitted by:

Ms. K. Anie Vijeth Imdad H. Mukeri
Assistant professor Roll no: 21031S0318
Center of pharmaceutical sciences, IST
Subject: Cosmetic and cosmaceutical
M. Pharm ( 1st sem )

Center of Pharmaceutical Science,

Jawaharlal Nehru Technological University, Hyderabad- 500085,

Telengana India

2022/02/08

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 Acknowlegment

In preparation of my assignment, I had to take the help and guidance of some respected
seniors and professors, who deserve my deepest gratitude. As the completion of this
assignment gave me much pleasure. I would like to sho w my gratitude to Ms. K. Anie Vijeth
Course Instructor, Assistant professor, Center of pharmaceutical sciences, IST, JNTUH. She
gave me wonderful opportunity to prepare assignment on “Formulation building bocks for
different product of Cosmetics/ Cosmeceutical” topics. I would also like to expand my
gratitude to all those who have directly and indirectly guided me in writing this assignment.

Many people, especially my parents and classmates have made valuable comment
suggestions on my assignment which gave me an inspiration to improve the quality of the
assignment

[UNIT-III Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical, JNTUH] Page IV

 Table of contents
1. Introduction to cosmetics and cosmeceuticals..........................01
2. Surfactant(surface active agent) and its classification......................01-02
3. Emollients and its types ...................................................................02
4. Rheological additivs , classification and its apllication.....................03
5. Anti- microbial preservative, classification ......................................04-06

6. Building bocks for different product of cosmetics ( moisturizing cream, vanishing

cream cold cream, Shampoo, toothpaste, soaps)..............................08-16

7. Conclusion .........................................................................................17

8. References ..........................................................................................17

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Introduction to cosmetics and cosmeceutical
A cosmetic product can only be applied to the outer surface of the skin and so it cannot
directly treat a specific disease. It cannot pass through the dermal-epidermal joining, which is
the area between the epidermis and dermis. However, it can maintain, protect, clean, add
fragrance to, and change the appearance of any area of the epidermis’ surface that it is applied
to.

cosmeceuticals are able to penetrate the epidermis. The active principles are able to pass
through the epidermis and act deep within the dermis. Although, due to its composition, a
cosmeceutical product is not classifiable as a drug, despite being formulated with highly
active principles.

A product classified as a drug is any substance or combination of substances that has the
ability to cure or prevent a specific disease. Its main purpose is to restore, correct or modify
the physiological functions through pharmacological action

Surfactant(surface active agent)

Surfactants (surface active agent) are materials that lower the surface tension (or
interfacial tension) between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. In the general sense,
any material that affects the interfacial surface tension can be considered a surfactant, but in
the practical sense, surfactants may act as wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents,
and dispersants, among others.

Surfactants play an important role as dispersing, emulsifying, cleaning, wetting,

foaming and anti-foaming agents in many practical applications and products, including:
paints, emulsions adhesives, inks, biocides (sanitizers), shampoos, toothpastes, firefighting
(foams), detergents, insecticides, deinking of recycled papers, ski waxes, spermicides
(nonoxynol-9).

Classification of surfactant (surface active agent)

There are 4 types of surfactants. These classifications are based upon the composition
of the polarity of the head group: nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric.

1. Nonionic Surfactants: These surfactants are often used as wetting agents or in

coatings. Various products that make use of nonionic surfactants are polishes,
cleaners, fragrances, and even some food products.e.g silfate, sulfonate, polysorbites

Table-1: Nonionic Surfactants:

Name Application
Polyoxyethylene glycol octylphenol ethers Wetting agent coatings
Polyoxyethylene glycol alkylphenol ethers Spermacide
Sorbitan alkyl esters Polishes, cleaners, fragrance carriers

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 2. Anionic Surfactants: Anionic surfactants are also often used as wetting agents and
can be found in products such as laundry & dish detergents, toothpaste, shampoo,
body soaps, and other bath products. e.g fatty acid ester, ethoxylate

Table-2: Anionic Surfactants:

Name Application
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate Shampoos, bath products
Sodium stearate Handsoap, HI&I products
Linear alkylbenzene sulfonates Laundry detergents, dishwasher detergents

3. Cationic Surfactants : Cationic surfactants have the ability to disturb and penetrate
the cell membrane of viruses and bacteria, due to their positive charge. For this
reason, cationic surfactants are often used in antimicrobial and antifungal products.e.g
quatenary ammonium salt, Polyamines and their salts

4. Amphoteric Surfactants: Also known as Zwitterionic surfactants, these surfactants

possess properties of both cationic and anionic surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants
have quick dry properties and often used in paint and latex products to help them dry
or coagulate quicker. E.g amino acid derivative

Emollients:
The term emollent refers to materials that are able to soften skin. The word is actually
derived from mattire which is u ustin verb meaning "to soften. In the cosmetic formulating
world emollients are Ingredients Incorporated into products to improve the feel of skin and
hair. emollients are considered ingredients which have smoothing or conny properties. They
are added to the formulations to provide moisturizing benefits and sunset a variety of
conditioning claims.
Examples of emollients are ingredie oil shea butter, cocoa butter, petrolatum and fatty
acid is incluring emu, mink, and lanolin, the later probably the one ingredient that is most like
our own skin's oil). Others include triglycerides, benzoates, myristates, palmitates, and
stearates, are generally waxy in texture and appearance but provide most moisturizers with
their elegant texture and feel. Emollients differ in their properties from humectants and
occlusives. The characteristics of each of the cosmetic ingredient category.

1. Humectants: Humectants function by attracting water outward to the SC from the

dermis below and binding that water in the SC. e.g. Glycerin urea and pyrrolidone
carboxylic acid (PCA). Glycerin is frequently used due to its low cost and high
efficacy. However, the tackiness imparted to skin by its high levels is one ofthe
drawbacks. Thus when optimizing skin formulations, cosmeticchemists often are
challenged to reduce these negative properties

2. Emollients: Emollients provide some occlusivity and improve the appearance of the
skin by smoothing flaky skin cells. Emollients generally aregrouped by their ability to
spread on the skin. By combining emollients with the different spread rates,
formulators can tailor then skin feel of a moisturizer.Additionally, emollient lipids
similar to those naturally found in the skin may also increase the rate of barnerrepair.

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 3. Occlusives: Occlusive agents increase moisture levels in skin by providing a physical
barrier to epidermal water loss, Ingredients with occlusive properties include
petrolatum, waxes, oils and silicones. Some occlusive agents like petrolatum can
leave a heavy feeling on skin, thus they often are combined with other ingredients like
emollients to improve consumer appeal

Rheological additivs:

 Rheology can be defined as “the science or study of how things flow”.

 Rheological additive for cosmetics provide thickening, stabilization, anti- settling,
flow and flow leveling, spreadability and sprayability. They also provide binder,
absorption and anti static properties.
 Rheology additive increasing the apparent viscosity will confer a feeling of “quality”
to the formulation, this is only one aspect of rheological control. The product itself
can be Newtonian or pseudoplastic, thixotropic, be a ringing gel or a stringy flowable
liquid.
 This will then affect the way that the product appears in the bottle, how easy it is to
pour or scoop from the packaging, how easy it is to rub into the skin or along the hair
shaft, and how easy it is to rinse and remove the product after use.
 It will also be essential to choose the correct rheological characteristics to ensure the
stability of the finished formulation. rheology modifier are available to the formulator.
These include natural gums such as guar and starch, modified naturals such as
cellulose derivatives, synthetics such as acrylic polymers and inorganic such as clays.

Classification of Rheological additivs:

1. Polymeric Rheology additivs: These, usually acrylate based polymer thickeners, are
cost effective and efficient at low use levels, can provide suspension of particles but
can be sensitive to salt content and tend toshort rheology
2. Mineral Colloidal additivs: Minerals (naturally sourced) such as Magnesium
Aluminum Silicate, Bentonite, and Hectorite can be used to create colloidal systems
which impart viscosity in a non-Newtonian manner. Typically synergistic when used
with gums (xanthan). They also have a smooth, 'dry' feel. Hydrophobically modified
minerals can also provide rheology modification in non-aqueous systems.
3. Associative Thickeners: These thickeners interact with surfactants in a way that
moderates flow and adds viscosity. They can be sensitive to different ingredients
including sulfate free surfactants.
4. Cellulosic Thickeners: Based on cellulose (wood pulp), these synthetically modified
polymers are similar to the polymeric thickeners in that they can be highly efficient.
At higher use levels they can feel slippery or stringy and do not provide suspending
properties. Hydrophobic modification can allow for use in solvent systems

Application of Rheological additivs:

The Application of Rheological additivs can be readily understood based on the

classification presented in the tables below

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 Table-3: Application Of Rheological Additivs

Class Examples
Liquid thickeners Beeswax, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, carnauba wax
Naturally derived thickners Modified cellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, gelatin
Synthetic thickener Carbomers, Polyethylene glycol
Ionic thickeners Salts
Mineral thickeners Silica, Bentonite

Anti- microbial preservative

Cosmetic antimicrobial agents are ingredients that help to prevent the growth of
unwanted microorganisms in skin care products and enhance product preservation. These
microorganisms may include bacteria, viruses, or fungi.

 Antimicrobial preservatives are substances added to non-sterile dosage forms to

protect them from microbiological growth or from microorganisms that are introduced
inadvertently during or subsequent to the manufacturing process.
 To prevent decomposition by microbial growth or by undesirable chemical changes.
 Preservatives are substances that are commonly added to various foods and
pharmaceutical products in order to prolong their shelf life.
 The addition of preservatives to such products, especially to those that have higher
water content, is essential for avoiding alteration and degradation by microorganisms
during storage.
 Preservatives are put in foods to inhibit growth of bacteria, yeasts, or molds that can
cause disease.

Ideal Properties of Preservative

 It should not be irritant.

 It should not be toxic.
 It should be physically and chemically stable.
 Preservative should be compatible with other ingredients used in formulation.
 It should be act as good antimicrobial agent and should exert wide spectrum of
activity. It should act as preservative in small concentration i.e. it must be potent.
 It should maintain activity throughout product manufacturing, shelf life and usage.

Classification Of Preservative

A. Classification Based On Mechanism Of Action

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 1. Antioxidants: The agent which prevent oxidation of Active pharmaceutical
ingradient which otherwise undergo degradation due to oxidation as they are sensitive
to oxygen. Eg.Vitamin E Vitamin C Butylatedhydroxyanisole ( BHA).
Butylatedhydroxytoluene (BHT).

2. Antimicrobial agents: The agent which active against gram positive & gram
negative micro-organism which causes degradation of pharmaceutical preparation.
Which are active in small inclusion level. Eg. Benzoates Sodium benzoate Sorbates

3. Chelating agents: The agents which form the complex with pharmaceutical
ingredient and prevent the degradation of pharmaceutical formulation.Eg. Disodium
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), Polyphosphates Citric acid

B. Classification based on source

1. Natural Preservatives: These drugs are obtained by natural sources that is plant,
mineral sources, animal etc. Eg. Neem Oil Salt (sodium chloride) Lemon Honey

2. Artificial Preservatives: These preservative are man made by chemical synthesis

active against by various micro-organisms in small concentration. Eg. Benzoates

Preservatives Used in Cosmetics

Table -4: Preservatives Uses, Advantage And Disadvantage

Class Examples Uses, advantage and disadvantage

parabens Germaben II, methylparaben, Economical. Most widely used group of
propaylparaben, butylparaben preservatives.
Effective for fungal protection and some
gram positive bacteria.
Must be combined with others for gram
negative protection.
Allowed for both rinse-off and leave-on
products. Concerns about estrogenic
activity due to study — the study was
disputed, but public now perceives them as
dangerous and it is difficult to turn that
around. It was concluded that they were
safe for use in cosmetic products at levels
up to 25%. Typically parabens are used at

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 levels ran ins from 0.01 to 0.3%.
Formaldahyde Dermall plus, DMDM, Effective for bacteria, weak fungal efficacy.
releasers Hydantoins, imadozolidinly Releases formaldehyde as needed, so
urea maintains low levels. :
The use of formaldehyde-releasing
preservatives ensures that the actual level of
free formaldehyde in the products is always
very low, yet sufficient to ensure microbial
inhibition.
Isothiazolinon Kathon Broad spectrum effectiveness.
es Best for Rinse-off products.
Effective over the entire pH range normally
encountered in cosmetics. Non-
carcinogenic. Ma_ cause skin irritation.
Phenoxyethan Optiphen, optiphen plus Often considered a "milder alternative" to
ol traditional preservatives. Not broad
spectrum (by itself), often combined with
caprylyl glycol, sorbic acid/potassium
sorbate or EDTA to create broad spectrum
efficacy. Good bacterial efficacy, best
against gram negative bacteria. Very stable,
not pH dependent. Allowed in most areas
up to 1%, though found to be non-irritating
or sensitizing up to 2.2%, Concerns of
carcinoeenic activity.
Organics acids Benzoic Acid, Benzyl Higher use levels to be effective leading to
Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, higher costs.
Benzethonium Chloride Aqueous base required.
Effective against most fungi with weak
efficacy against bacteria. .
Often combined with other organic acids or
diazolidinyl urea (DU) for broad spectrum
effectiveness.
Considered to be “natural alternatives”
though they are often made synthetically.
Precipitate in high water content and
become no longer active.
Require pH 2-6.

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 Building bocks for different product of cosmetics:

1. Vanishing Cream:

They are oil in water type of emulsion. When applied on the surface of skin, they
spread as thin oil less film which is not visible to the naked eye. Hence, they are
called as vanishing creams. They are used to hold powder on the skin as well as to
improve adhesion.

 Properties:
 It should have high melting point.
 It should be pure white in color.
 It should possess very little odour.
 It should have less number of iodine.

Table -5: formula vanishing cream:

Ingredients Quantity
Stearic acid (lubricant) 24g
Potassium hydroxide (softening 1g
agent)
Water (vehicle) 64g
Glycerin (humectants 10.5g
Perfumes (odors) 0.5g

Method of preparation

 Stearic acid is melted in a container by using water bath. Potassium hydroxide is

dissolved in water and then glycerin is added.

 This mixture is heated to a temperature of about 75’ C. This is aqueous phase.

 Slowly aqueous phase is added to melted stearic acid along with continuous
stirring.

 Perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of 40°C

2. Moisturizing cream:
Moisturizing agents modulate the moisture content of the skin and protect the skin
barrier from drying. In order to avoid skin damage, it is mandatory to obtain a product
with good moisturizing performance to match up with the consumer's expectations.

Method of preparation:
Oil in water emulsion cream was prepared by initially melting sunflower wax
at 70-80 °C and to the molten mass added stearic acid, liquid paraffin, lanoline,
glyceryl monostearate. Aqueous phase along with propylene glycol, isopropyl
myristate, triethanolamine, glycerin and water heated at sametemperature as oil phase.

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 Table -5: Formula for preparation OF Moisturizing cream

Oil phase Water phase

Ingredients Quantity Ingredients Quantity

Stearic acid 4% Glycerin 4%
Liquid paraffin 8% Propylene glycol 4%

Lanoline 1% Isopropyl myristate 2%

Glyceryl 3% Triethanolamine 0.2%

monostearate

Water and perfume 100%, Q.S Methyl paraben 0.03%

Evaluation of moisturizing cream

Cream products were characterized by pH, spreadability, viscosity, in vitro occlusivity

and particle size [18-28].

1. pH measurement: The pH of the 10 % w/v cream suspension was determined at

25 °C using a pH meter, standardized using pH 4.0 and 7.0 standard buffers before
use and average of triplicates were determined.
2. Spreadability: The spreadability of test samples was determined using the
following technique: 0.5 g test formulation was placed within a circle of 1 cm
diameter pre-marked on a glass plate over which a second glass plate was placed.
A weight of 500 g was allowed to rest on the upper glass plate for 5 min.
Spreadability refers to the area covered by a fixed amount of cream sample after
the uniform spread of sample on the glass slide. The increase in the diameter due
to spreading of the test formulation was noted. Average of three determinations
was noted.
3. Viscosity: Brookfield Synchro-Lectric Viscometer (Model RVT) with helipath
stand was used for rheological studies. The sample (50 g) was placed in a beaker
and was allowed to equilibrate for 5 min before measuring the dial reading using a
T-D spindle at 10, 20,30,50,60,100 rpm. At each speed, the corresponding dial
reading on the viscometer was noted. The spindle speed was successively lowered
and the corresponding dial reading was noted. The measurements were carried in
triplicate at ambient temperature. Direct multiplication of the dial readings with
factors given in the Brookfield viscometer catalogue gave the viscosity in
centipoises. Average of three triplicates was computed.

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 4. Thermal stability: Thermal stability (at 20 °C, 30 °C and 40 °C) of the prepared
formulations was determined according to Indian standard guideline.
5. In vitro occlusivity test: Beakers of diameter 3.2 cm and height 4.6 cm were
used. The test was performed by placing 10 g of distilled water in each beaker and
closing the open end with Whatman filter paper (0.45 pore size) on the upper
surface of which 200 mg of the sample was evenly distributed. These beakers
were then placed at 37±2 °C/607±5% RH for 48 h. The samples of all
formulations, prototype formulation and a negative control where the filter paper
was kept uncovered were studied for the in vitro occlusivity to determine the
water flux.

The occlusion factor F was calculated as

Where,

A= Water flux through uncovered filter (percent water loss)

B= Water flux through filter when covered by test preparation (percent water loss)

6. Measurement of particle size: A laser diffraction particle size analyzer

(Mastersizer Hydro 2000 MU, Malvern Instruments) was employed for measuring
the globule size distribution of the emulsion droplets. Briefly, the sample was
dispersed in 0.2 micron filtered distilled water to obtain an obscuration of 5-15 %.

3. Shampoo:
A Shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form liquid, solid or powder
which when used under the specialized conditions will remove surface grease, dirt and
skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.

Ingredients for Shampoo

1) Surfactants :
(a) Anionic surfactants :
 Alkyl benzene sulphonates
 Alpha olefin sulphonates
 Sulphosuccinates
(b) Non-ionic surfactants :
 Fatty acid alkanolamides

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  Polyalkoxylated derivatives
 Amine oxides
(c) Amphoteric surfactants :
 N-alkyl amino acids
 Betains
 Alkyl imidazolines
2) Conditioning agents :
 Lanolin
 Mineral oil
 Polypeptides
 Egg derivatives
 Herbal extracts

3) Viscosity modifiers :
(a) Electrolytes : Ammonium chloride, Sodium chloride
(b) Natural gums : Gum tragacanth, Gum karaya, Alginates
(c) Cellulose derivatives : Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose,
Carboxymethyl cellulose
(d) Carboxyvinyl polymers : Polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with polyfunctional
agent (e) Others : Ethoxylated fatty acid diesters, Phosphate esters, Polyvinyl
pyrrolidones

4) Opacifying & Clarifying agents :

 Stearyl alcohol
 Cetyl alcohol
 Propylene glycol
 Phosphates
 Finely dispersed zinc oxide
 Milky emulsions of vinyl polymers

5) Preservatives : ( Formaldehyde , Esters of para hydroxy benzoic acid )

6) Perfumes

Procedure for preparation of shampoo

 Measure the quantity of coconut oil, olive oil , castor oil & take it in a round
bottom flask.
 Potassium hydroxide dissolved in 3/4th quantity of water was added to it , heat
it in a water bath for 70-80ºC with constant shaking for 1hr
 Take remaining quantity of water and add sodium hexamethyl cellulose ,
glycerine , perfume & other ingredients.
 Then mix both the solution to form a uniform shampoo.

Types of shampoo:
1. Lotion Shampoo
2. Liquid sampoo
3. Anti- darndruf shampoo

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 1. Powder Shampoo 2. Lotion Shampoo

Table -6: formula for Powder Table -7: formula for lotion
Shampoo Shampoo

Henna powder 5% Sodium laury 35%

Soap powder 50% sulphate
Glyceral 2%
Sodium carbonate 22.5%
monostearate
Potasium carbonate 7.5% Magnecium 22.5%
Borax 15% monostearate
Perfume Q.S Water Upto 100%
Colour, perfume and Q.S
preservative

3.Liquid shampoo: 4. anti- dandruff shampoo:

Table -8: formula for liquid Table -9: formula for dandruff
Shampoo Shampoo

Sodium laury 40% Selenium sulphate 2.5%

sulphate Sodium laury 35%
Gsodium chloride 2-4% sulphate
Water Upto 100% Bentonite 5%
perfume Q.S Water Upto 100%
perfume Q.S

5. Conditioning shampoo:

Table -10: formula for Conditioning Shampoo

Stearyl dimethyl benzyl 5.5%

ammonium chloride
Etheylene glycol 2%
monostearate
Cetyl alcohol 2.5%
Water Upto 100%
Colour, perfume and Q.S
preservative

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 Evaluation of shampoo:
1. Determination of percent of solid contents.
2. Determination of Ph.
3. Determination of viscosity
4. Foaming ability
5. Skin irritation test Foam stability
6. Cleaning action
7. Dirt dispersion
8. Surface tension measurement
9. Eye irritation test.

4. Toothpasts:

A toothpaste in defined as a semi-solid material for removing naturally occurring

deposits from teeth and is supposed to be used simultaneous with a toothbrush.
Dentifrice is A Substance used in toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning the
accessibles surfaces of the teeth. The Purposes of the toothpasts are Cleaning,
polishing, removal of strains, reduce incidences of teeth decay and reduction of the
oral malodors.

Requirements of tooth paste:

 Tooth paste should clean the teeth adequately, and to remove the food debris ,
plaque and stains.
 It should leave the mouth with a fresh and clean sensation
 It cost should be such as to encourage regular and frequent use by all
 It should be harmiess, pleasant and convenient to use.

Formulation of toothpaste:

Table -10: Formulation of toothpaste

Indredients Quantity
Sodium laury sulphate 2%
Gycerin sorbitols 30%
Hydroxy ethyl cellulose. Carboxy methyl 0.5%
cellulose
Spermint, menthol 1%
Titanium dioxide 0.1%
Water Upto 100%

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 Method of preparation of toothpaste:

Method of preparation:

There are two different method of preparation which are as follow

1. Dry gum method.

2. Wet gum method

1. Dry Gum Method:

 In this method, all the solid components of the formulation like abrasive agent,
binding agent etc. except the surfactants are mixed together in a dry mixer.
 The mixer may be an agitation mixer which consists of slow rotating blades.
 The liquid components such as the humectants and water are gradually added to
the dry mix.
 The mixing process is carried out till a smooth paste is formed.
 The remaining ingredients like the surfactants and the flavouring agents are added
to the homogenous paste under vacuum.

2. Wet Gum Method:

 In this method, all the liquid components are mixed together to form a liquid
phase.
 The binding agent is then mixed with the liquid phase with uniform stirring in
order form mucilage.
 The solid ingredients excluding the surfactants are then gradually added to the
mucilage with uniform mixing in an agitation mixer, in order to form a
homogenous paste.
 The remaining ingredients i.e., the surfactants, the flavoring agents, coloring
agents are added under vacuum t the homogenous paste

Evaluation of toothpaste

1. Tests for Abrasive Character

2. Determination of Particle Size
3. Test for Cleansing Property
4. Determination of Consistency of the Product
5. Determination of pH of the Product
6. Determination of Foaming Character

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 7. Determination of the Volatile Matter and the Moisture Content
8. Determination of the Test for the Special ingredient
9. Limit Test for Heavy Metals

1. Determination of pH of the Product:

 A 10% solution of the paste in water is made and the pH of the dispersion is
measured using a pH meter. The pH should be in the range of 6.8 to 7.4 in
order to maintain the consistency of the product.

2. Determination of Foaming Character:

 This test for the foaming character is applicable only to foaming tooth
powders and pastes. In this test, specific amount of the product is mixed with a
known amount of water.
 The solution is then shaken sometimes in order to produce foam. The foam
produced is then collected and studies on its nature, washability and stability
are carried out.

3. Determination of Particle Size:

 Particle size determination is important as the cleansing nature and abrasive

property of the dentifrice mainly depends on the particle size.
 The particle size can be determined by using microscopical techniques or by
involving the method of sieving.

4. Determination of Grittiness:

 The presence of hard, sharp-edged abrasive particles were evaluated by

extruding near about 15 to 20 mm length paste from a collapsible tube of each
sample on butter paper then pressed it along its entire length by finger.

5. Determination of the Test for the Special ingredient:

 The use of therapeutic ingredients may lead to certain incompatibilities and

hence specific tests are done in order to determine the effect of the specific
ingredients such as antiseptics, enzymes etc.

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 5. Soaps:

Soaps are sodium or potassium salts of long chain fatty acids. When triglyceride in
fats/oil react with aqueous NAOH / KOH , they convert into soap & glycerol. This is
called alkaline hydrolysis of esters. Since this reaction leads to the formation of soap,
it is called saponification process. The word “syndet” is derives from ‘synthetic’
combined with ‘detergent’. Technically it refers to the binding that occurs between
detergents, also called as surfactants. Syndet soap surfactants are derived from oils,
fats / petroleum products that are processed from a wide range o chemical processes
other than traditional saponification.

Ingredient for making soap:

1. fats & oils: A fat mixture containing saturated & unsaturated , ong & short chain
fatty acids in proportion are used in manufacture of soap. Eg: A very common
mix. For manufature of soap is 75% tallow & 25% coconut oil. Saturated fatty
acids with 12-18 carbon atoms include lauric , myristic , palmitic , stearic & oleic
acids are used.
2. alkali: An important raw material in soap making is caustic soda(NaOk. Caustic
potah (KOH) is used for making soaps.

Other additives:

1. anti-oxidants: Used to stabilize the soap against rancidity. Eg. Sodium silicate,
sodium hyposulphite, sodium thiosulphate.
2. 2. Whiteners: Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used to improve whiteness.
3. Perfume: The pH pf the soap is around 10.0 the selected perfume should be stable
in ths pH range.

Saponification Method

1. Cold & semi-boiled process

2. Full boiled process
3. Continuous process

[UNIT-III Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical, JNTUH] Page 15

 1. Cold & semi-boiled process: In this process are the simplest process of soap making.
These processe, fat is reacted with strong alkali and strong alkali is nearly equal to
that just required for saponification. The semi Process is differ from cold process in
the fact that the saponification. Mixture is heated to 70-90 C. Using a steam heated
coil to accelerate and complete the saponification reaction ater tne saponification is
complete other ingredients added. Cold process, mixing of fat and strong alkal is
carried out substantially at room temp so that more than emulsification take place.
Saponification is completed after this mix is run into frames in several days at warm
temp then additional of other ingredients.
2. Full boiled process: In this process, large cylindrical kettles with cone bottoms
equipped with open and sometimes with closed coils for steam are used. full boiled
process includes saponification reaction graining out and washing strong charge
finishing operation.
3. Continuous Process: This process are used for very large scale production .

Types of Soaps (Different Making Process & Different Usage)

 Glycerin Soap
 Transparent Soap
 Liquid Soap
 Medicated Soap
 Beauty Soap
 Guest Soap
 Novelty Soap
 Laundry Soap
 Kitchen Soap

Evaluation

1. Determination of clearity, colour & odour

2. Determination of pH
3. Dissolved in 100 ml water & store 24 hr. & check previously calibrated pH meter.
4. Determination of foam test: Take 0.5g soap, dispersed in 25 ml water. gransfer to 100
ml measuring sylinder , & vol adjust ml. Shake the sample solution 25 times &
measure foam ight.
5. Determination of % alkali: Take 5g sample in conical flask add into 50ml neutralized
alcohol Boilled under reflux condition for 30 min , cooled & add 1 ml
phenolphthalein and titrate immediately 0.1 N Hcl.

[UNIT-III Cosmetic and Cosmeceutical, JNTUH] Page 16

 6. Determination of alcohol insoluble matter: 5g sample take n flask, 50ml warm ethanol
add & shake vigorously to dissolved, Filer solution with 20 ml ethanol & dried it at
105 c for 1 hr.

Conclusion:

In order to achieve the multi-claim cosmetics products required for the

cosmetic/cosmaceutical care category, it is necessary for the formulator to use a variety of
different ingredients. This places a number of demands on the formulation and development
process and Innovations in the areas of pharmaceutical technology have contributed to the
formulation of the products having superior efficacy as well as other attributes that may
contribute to clinical response and patient acceptability. Improved clinical efficacy and
tolerability, along with conditioning signals, should encourage patient compliance with
hygiene further complementing professional efforts directed at skin care tooth care as well as
disease prevention.

References:

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toothpastes and mouthwashes. Bosnian journal of basic medical sciences. 2004
Nov;4(4):51.
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sunflower wax. Int J Pharm Pharm Sci. 2018;10(11):54-59.
3. Akhtar N, Khan BA, Khan MS, Mahmood T, Khan HM, Iqbal M, Bashir S.
Formulation development and moiturising effects of a topical cream of Aloe vera
extract. World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology. 2011 Mar
21;51:172-179.
4. Adegoke T, Arotupin D, Ekundayo T. Antimicrobial activities of some commercial
cosmetics on selected cutaneous microflora. J. Adv. Microbiol. 2017;4:1-9.
5. K. Pathak, A. Vidya, text Book of Cosmetic and Cosmaceutican sciences by nirali
prakashan page no. 2.1-6.8
6. Dureja H, Kaushik D, Gupta M, Kumar V, Lather V. Cosmeceuticals: An emerging
concept. Indian Journal of Pharmacology. 2005 May 1;37(3):155.
7. Kadam Vaishali S, Chintale Ashwini GD, Deshmukh Kshitija P, Nalwad Digambar
N. Cosmeceuticals an emerging concept: A comprehensive Review. Int. J. Res.
Pharm. Chem. 2013;3:308-16.
8. Gawade RP, Chinke SL, Alegaonkar PS. Polymers in cosmetics. InPolymer Science
and Innovative Applications 2020 Jan 1 (pp. 545-565). Elsevier.

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