Collection Review Pre-Summer 21
Women's Key
Trends
From timeless pieces to the desire for a vacation
dreamscape, this season is all about resourcefulness,
optimism and resetting the creative narrative
E ud o n Cho i
Action Points
The pre-summer themes deliver on two coexisting
consumer trends for 2021: the need for
considered, value-enhanced core items; and a
mood of femininity, fantasy and escapism. Both
take sustainability, functionality, longevity and
economics into account.
1. Tailoring with simple, clean lines is key for
layering, as transseasonality comes to the fore.
Take the opportunity to blend evergreen core
pieces with current #stayhomestyle wardrobes.
2. Use comfortable, durable and next-to-skin
luxe-touch materials to satisfy the continued
desire for protection.
3. After 5 dressing unfolds in timeless pieces,
while pretty items emerge with a youthful, sweet
frivolity and subversive sexiness.
4. Seabreeze takes us to a vacation dreamscape
with easy-to-wear items and fun prints.
5. Replay simple prints such as dots and
tablecloth ginghams with a playful hand.
Pet ar Pet r o v
Mood Video Thumb
Evolved Comfort
Ad eam
• A quiet mood puts the emphasis on
relaxed, clean cuts and minimalist,
easy-to-wear pieces
• Sustainable and repurposed
materials come to the fore. Embrace
the authenticity of natural fibres in
linen, cotton and silk satin
• Fabrics with slubby or raw mono
textures will complement unstructured
silhouettes. Cut dresses with extreme
volume, keeping comfort in mind
Vince Vince
Key Item
Make silhouettes all about ease
Ad eam
• The continuing desire for comfort
requires thoughtful, easy pieces that will
endure post-pandemic
• Soft quilted coats play into the desire
for protection. Square, roomy cuts are
made versatile and look effortless with
the addition of a tie belt
• Oversized shirts and the summer
blouson will continue as mainstays of
any assortment. Be creative with
contrast lightweight materials and
surface texture with fine pleats
S imo na Mar ziali E ud o n Cho i Rag & Bo ne
Print & Pattern
Keep print simple and abstract with
#refinedhandcraft details, ideal for graphic tees
Civid ini
• With limited availability to print resources, look
to creative partnerships with craftsmanship to
promote a more sustainable approach
• Hand-render patterns such as soft brushstrokes,
stencil designs or tie-dye with naturally derived
colours for unique appeal
• When using repurposed materials, contrast hues
to create a #refinedhandcraft look of abstract
colour-blocking. Apply this to graphic tops for a
commercial take
H o lzweiler H o lzweiler Civid ini
Mood
Pretty Feminine
Ulla Jo hnso n
Cecilie Bahnsen
• There is fresh and positive springtime feel to
this feminine theme, which builds on the
#cottagecore trend. Gardens and floral bouquets
inspire colour, print and silhouettes
• The increasing appetite for romantic pieces is
amplified by sensuous and delicate textures
• Create fanciful looks with deep layers and folds
to exaggerate puff sleeves. Keep the look
contemporary with an emphasis on head-to-toe
colour and #texturedminimalism
Cecilie Bahnsen Gay eo n Lee
Key Item
Add surface interest with upcycled
materials and details
Ad eam
• #Newfeminity continues with ultra-
feminine dresses. Ruffles and generous
lace frills provide fluidity, with a focus on
above-the-keyboard application
• There is an appetite for separates.
Incorporate delicate summer blouses
with inset details of lace in your final
edit
• Combine upcycled materials and
knitwear to present unique summery
dresses with tactile surface interest
Ulla Jo hnso n Giambat t ist a Valli Cecilie Bahnsen
Print & Pattern
Ditsy florals and naive
embroideries play into
#cottagecore escapism
Video Thumb
JW And er so n
• The escapism of #cottagecore appeals to consumers thanks
to its positivity and fresh perspective on the future. Fields of
wildflowers inspire print and pattern
• Ditsy florals and placed blooms drive the move towards home
crafting. Use deadstock and mix offcuts with ditsy and lace for
homecraft appeal
• Vintage embroideries inspire placed blooms on tulle,
emphasising the feminine narrative
Vivet t a E r d em
Mood
Seabreeze
E milio Pucci
Chanel
• The simple desire for escape brings fluid shapes
with #fullvolume to the fore. They work as well in
the park or garden as they do on the beach
• Effortless, elongated silhouettes are defined by
the use of soft materials, strong colour and vibrant
prints and patterns. Responsibly sourced fine silk,
cotton jersey and mercerised cotton are perfect for
uncomplicated shapes
E milio Pucci Valent ino
Key Item
Offer fluid comfort in
easy-to-wear items
Valent ino
• The relaxed nature of this trend defines easy-to-
wear items with comfort at the forefront; enter
luxuriant shapes with unstructured, decluttered
design. Use bright, mood-enhancing colour to
make an impact.
• With versatility a key component, the #suitset
becomes a must-have item. Create multiple
choices in either head-to-toe print, solid colour
variations or placement patterns that evoke a
vacation narrative
E milio Pucci Chanel Valent ino
Print & Pattern
Revisit colourful sunny themes for
statement-making summer prints
E milio Pucci
• Seabreeze is a celebration of freedom.
Exuberant print and pattern plays into a
carefree mood
• Sunny colours and ethereal shapes are
perfect canvases for prints. Vibrant and
joyful, decorative motifs are inspired by
#exotica blooms
• Revive past-season's tropical-themed
stock for statement summer prints
Valent ino Z immer mann Valent ino
Mood
Sweet Resort
Video Thumb
Chanel
• There is a youthful freshness about Sweet Resort,
with a delightful mix of retro pieces that sit between
daywear and subversive sexiness
• A balance of playfulness and purpose exists among
fun and versatile silhouettes. Take a strapless
minidress in ruched and ruffled polka dots and layer it
over a cotton tank top or a sweet printed bra top, and
place it under a cropped tweed jacket to get the look
Philo so phy d i Lo r enzo
S er af ini
Philo so phy d i Lo r enzo
S er af ini
Key Item
Sweet, playful pieces deliver
on optimism
Mo schino
• An optimistic mood offers much-needed relief.
Little shift dresses step up to the plate while the
addition of a variety of sweet floral prints will
expand your mix
• Upcycle vintage tweeds and breathe new life into
cropped jackets with handcrafted delicate floral
embroideries. Pair with sustainably sourced denim
wide-leg trousers
• Add bright colour to utility pieces for a fresh look
Giambat t ist a Valli Chanel Giambat t ist a Valli
Print & Pattern
Replay gingham and dots for fun
picnic prints
Giambat t ist a Valli
Philo so phy d i Lo r enzo
S er af ini
• Pre-Summer is not a season heavy with print,
but Sweet Resort brings simple #retroflorals and
patterns into play. Contrast oversized dots with
smaller versions and drench them in contrasting
bright sunny colours
• Tablecloth ginghams, reminiscent of childhood
picnics, are used in varying proportions
• Pretty floral posies inspire delicate patterns for
summer dresses
Balmain Giambat t ist a Valli Mo schino
Mood
Timeless Capsule
Jil S and er
Pet ar Pet r o v
• In WGSN's Women's Style Trend Concepts S/S
21: HomeSpun, we state that clothing will
"become sophisticated and timeless with a
sustainable ethos". Timeless Capsule promotes
this through a focus on durability and
compatibility for clothes that last beyond a
season
• Take existing pieces and pair them with
uncomplicated items to focus on functionality
and practicality, building a modern wardrobe in a
palette of soothing neutrals
Pet ar Pet r o v Jil S and er Vince
Key Item
Create longevity with versatile options
Pet ar Pet r o v
• Silhouettes are fuss-free and constructed in
sensible materials, while shapes, although
sculptural, are seen through a softer, relaxed lens
• Layering and versatility are important. Take a
sharp-cut blazer or summer coat and style over a
core skirt or trousers
• Two-piece dressing takes a front seat. Leverage
classic navy as a staple colour amid a sea of
undyed neutrals
Jil S and er Max Mar a Pet ar Pet r o v
Mood
After 5
Philo so phy d i Lo r enzo
S er af ini
Jil S and er
• A sense of occasion is reframed with an eye on
wear-forever pieces. Partywear is dual-purpose,
with upscaled day dresses and stay-at-home
cocktail dressing
• #Ruffles continue in lightweight multi-layers,
adding to the mood of fantasy and escapism
• On the flipside, simple, streamlined designs
provide a #minimalist aesthetic and are ideal for
dressing up with this season's many accessories
Balmain E milio Pucci
Key Item
Keep silhouettes simple and timeless
with just a touch of whimsy
Jil S and er
• Simplicity and timelessness are key to the
design aesthetic. #Suitsets with a sartorial twist
continue to filter through into womenswear. The
idea of getting dressed up becomes more
appealing, with items constructed in next-to-skin
satin
• The need for comfort-driven essentials'
increases. The comfort blazer is an easy style to
wear over sheer skirts for a #subversivesexy look.
The addition of whimsical frills in vibrant colours
provides contrast
Jil S and er Chanel Rejina Py o
