Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor.

Our friend J6rge, who will not be able to participate in the 1st Mechanical Meeting, delights us
with this document on carburetors so that we can prepare for the sessions given by his colleague
Mr. de la Ossa...

Hello guys, it goes there like "touching" the double body carburetor of a Dyane6, C8, 2cv, etc...
and since I do it once, well, for all of you...

The Solex 26/35 CSIC carburetor is composed of three main parts: carburetor cover , carburetor body and
supplement.

On the carburetor cover is: the FLOAT, which floats as the carburetor tank fills, the gasoline, the NEEDLE,
which the float presses to block the entry of more gasoline when it reaches the optimal level, a metal mesh
FILTER at the gasoline inlet (which is removable), for the STARTER mechanism, we have the wing nut, the
outer lever and the plate that fixes the starter cable sleeve and the COVER GASKET, which is made of
waterproof cardboard that must be replaced every time it appears too crushed or damaged upon
disassembly.

The rest of the automation is in the body , but we only have to stop there to clean the jets (also called jets
or gauges, according to books), check the acceleration pump, make the acceleration or gasoline mixture
adjustments (the screw mixing valve, which is the one on the front, it must be handled with care, as
thorough tightening can cause irreparable deterioration, it should never be handled with force...)

The supplement is a piece of Bakelite that prevents too much heat from passing from the exhaust manifolds
to the base of the carburetor... it must have a cardboard gasket above and below it with the same holes so
as not to hinder the passage of the mixture . These gaskets do not come from the factory, but during the
first repair they must be installed, because over the years, the materials lose rigidity and air begins to pass
between the carburetor and the base, which results in the mixture becoming poorer (more air passes in
priority to gasoline) and then the idle
 becomes irregular, and especially the starts become difficult).

To begin, we must unhook the spindle that guides the air from the filter to the upper part of the carburetor.
Once this is done, we must be very careful from now on that something does not fall into the nozzles, because
if it gets into the nozzles, to the collectors, we would have to dismantle them and also one cylinder head after
another until the part in question appeared... keep this in mind...

After releasing the air inlet knuckle, we can begin by disassembling the cover, to do this we loosen all the
screws, taking care to note that the one that blocks the retaining plate of the starter sleeve is longer...

Once they are all out, we gently pull the lid up and look at the position of the
choke of the choke, which will close when
separated from the body of the carburetor... it is
usually a very common mistake that occurs the
first times it is assembled and remains closed...
and then we take it out and place it inverted and
horizontal, so that the floats are facing up, and
we check that the separation between their
centers and the carburetor gasket is 18mm (plus
or minus one mm) and with an acceptable
variation of 1 mm between floats.

In the body of the carburetor, we can remove all

the jets (easy to recognize by their golden
color), always with a screwdriver with a flat
blade and slot sufficiently wide and thick to rest
on the entire and clean them, for this we must
not pass metal threads through the holes inside,
since their diameter can be imperceptibly varied and the passage of gasoline or air would be unbalanced... if
after blowing they are still blocked, then we will use soft and very fine copper wires, obtained by stripping
electrical cable...

We will see two spring-loaded screws on the outside, one in front (mixture regulator), which is the one that
opens or closes the fuel flow for idling, and another on the left side next to the air filter (which rests on the
cam of the starter) and is what regulates the air intake flow and directly affects the idle acceleration.
Once everything is cleaned and replaced, we proceed to replace the carburetor cover, (keeping the starter
butterfly vertical with our hand) and gently seat it, we must place all the screws without tightening them at all,
and once they are all slightly seated, We always make the final tightening between opposite screws and
without tightening too much, that is, when they offer resistance to threading, stop, and try to ensure that they
all have the same threading pressure...
Once this is done, we replace the sleeve that covers the carburetor and connect it to the air filter...
We must be sure of the good condition and cleanliness of the air filter and spark plugs, otherwise the
adjustment will be varied...

To begin this adjustment, we start the car and let it

warm up. It is best to let it idle for about 20 minutes
or go for a ride of a few km at a normal speed and
let it idle for a couple of minutes to stabilize... if it
tries to stop (what in Spain we call "stall") what we
do is tighten the acceleration adjustment screw
(lateral-rear position) one turn or whatever we
need... we will see that as we tighten the screw, the
car speeding up its idle speed...

Once we achieve an idle speed that keeps it

running, we gradually tighten the mixture
adjustment screw (inclined front position) until the
engine BEGINS to rattle (which is commonly known
as "galloping" because just when the engine sound
stops sounding "round" or uniform), when this happens, we loosen the same screw two thirds of a turn again,
so the engine sound will be uniform. If it has remained high or low in revolutions, act on the acceleration
screw to increase them (tightening) or decrease them (loosening) and the adjustment is completed.
If the idle is very fast, and when you loosen the acceleration screw, it rattles, it usually happens that the
adjustment has been made by closing the mixture screw too much, if this happened, loosen it a half turn and
also loosen the acceleration screw so that the engine rotation speed drops... if the problem continues, the
problem may be in another part of the engine, such as: improper air intake through the intake manifold
(gaskets in poor condition or loose), by the shafts of the carburetor knobs (worn carburetor), unsettled tappet
adjustment, poor compression or even exhausted engine...

And come on, let's go miles... XD

I strongly insist that the air filter and spark plugs must be in perfect condition......

The most experienced of you will have noticed the absence of reference to the "valve clearance" or also called
"tappet adjustment", that is something for users already a little familiar with the mechanics.

Greetings to all

J6rge

Re: Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor. (Score 1) by Efrén on Saturday, March 22
at 15:06:23
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First, congratulations on your article, now we need someone determined to do the valve light and tappet
adjustment.
But I want to make a comment about the wealth adjustment since the difference in adjustment methods
highlights the delicate nature of the matter.
This same thing was debated in the forum on "co2 adjustment" and an Anonymous through Fermin said: "We
turn the screw of wealth and when the engine spins as fast as we stop, now we turn and a half backwards and
it is adjusted "
Then Antonio said:
"I think it is tightened almost to the limit, WITHOUT FORCING IT, and it loosens until once packed, it starts to
stop, then we tighten it one and a half or two turns and that's it."
Anonymous replied:
The trick is knowing the middle point. With the engine running, the screw is completely closed WITHOUT
FORCING, and, before the engine stops due to lack of fuel, the screw is untightened BY COUNTING THE
TURNLES ACCURATELY. As we loosen the screw, the engine will clearly accelerate, calm down and accelerate
again. If the first peak of acceleration occurred with the screw open (loosened) 3 turns and the second peak of
acceleration occurred with 5 turns, then the motor will rotate round with 3 plus 1 turns or 5 minus 1 turns,
that is, in the midpoint, with the screw loosened 4 turns. It is always better to pull low (lower gasoline
mixture) than high (richer gasoline mixture). In this example, if the engine maintains a stable idle at 3.5
revolutions, it is better than 4 or 4.5 revolutions.
PREMISES: the engine must be at its operating temperature. The carburetor and its gaskets, in perfect
condition. A carburetor with minimal mechanical clearances or with unexpected air inlets is impossible to
carbure.
Antonio:
This explanation from Mr. Anonymous is clearer, and seems correct to me.

Add that in addition to the carburetor and its gaskets being in good condition, the PERFECT condition of the
spark plugs, points and their adjustment, as well as the correct adjustment of the rocker arms, also has an
influence because at slow speed it is more sensitive to these two parameters.
A thorough carburetor adjustment will be of little value if the rocker arm adjustment is out of tolerance, or if
the spark plugs ARE DIRTY."

I added what I had read on a French page:

"DO NOT TOUCH the wealth screw at the risk of having surprises in the MOT with contamination. If it has been
touched, it is removed, cleaned, tightened thoroughly and unscrewed exactly 2 and 3/4 turns." And
anonymously ended the discussion.
"Exact. The 2 and three-quarter turns is a good reference, but there will be cars that cannot maintain a stable
idle with this screw opening. The state of the engine, atmospheric temperature, humidity, and barometric
pressure influence."
With this I hope that whoever starts doing this knows what they are getting into.
Luck

• Re: Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor. by reni on Wednesday, November 1 at
17:01:55

Re: Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor. (Score 1)

by fermin on Saturday, March 22 at 19:41:30
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Regarding this topic, I just saw what a manual (the Appraisals one) says and for adjusting the wealth screw it
comments as follows:

- Adjustment of the wealth screw:

A) With the engine at its operating temperature, adjust the throttle valve stop screw to obtain a speed of:
Engine A 53: 500 to 550 rpm
Engine A 79/0: 650 rpm
Engine A 79/1: 650 rpm
M 4 engine: 500 to 600 rpm
M 28/1 engine: 650 rpm
M 28 engine: 750 rpm

B) Slowly screw in the richness screw until the motor runs irregularly (risk of stopping). At this time, unscrew
this screw:
Engine A 53: 1/2 turn.
Engine A 79/0: 1/4 turn.
Engine A 79/1: 1/4 turn.
M 4 engine: 1/2 turn.
M 28/1 engine: 1/2 turn.
M 28 engine: 1/3 turn.
which provides correct wealth.

Re: Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor. (Score 1) by J6rge on Sunday, March 23 at
20:46:53
( User Information | Send a Message ) http://usuarios.lycos.es/ami6
Pay attention to me, there have already been many for whom I have adjusted the idle speed, and I assure you
that I already knew all of those methods... but I will tell you the simplest... as well as four methods for
adjusting tappets, at the same time. In the end I only use and indicate one (it will be for another chapter of
"destroy your two-cylinder yourself"). Tightening depending on who prefers to do it one way or another... but
the important thing is the result...
I recommend that before starting the adjustment, the mixture screw be screwed fully (without tightening)
counting the turns to discount them again and leaving it as it was at the beginning... it seems absurd, but not
at all... that serves to remove all the dirt deposited on the conical tip of that screw and leave the passage free
of impurities and that the adjustment does not vary because of it...
The system that I have shown you, I assure you, is the simplest and with which the lowest possible
consumption is achieved at idle... those of you who are familiar with the subject, try it and comment on the
results... it may seem complicated to understand, but Keep in mind that explaining this in a text is
complicated and must be discussed in detail, even if it seems complicated... otherwise, inexperienced
amateurs will not do it so "happily" that it could cause a mess in the mix...
On the other hand, the threatening advertisements that DO NOT TOUCH the mixture screw are equally
dedicated to the same inexperienced people who, seeking greater power or pure boredom mixed with daring,
"fiddled" with all the screws until they unbalanced the good or not so good one. operation of your engine...
Well, my wish (with that idea I wrote it more than a year ago) is that it takes away your fear of those
"gadgets" under the hood...
If you notice a strange lexicon, think that I wrote it at the same time for people from Spain, Argentina and
Portugal... All the best...

Re: Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor. (Score 1)

by fermin on Tuesday, March 25 at 19:08:17
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J6rge, if you comment that the method you use is the most optimal, then do not hesitate, we will apply yours,
of course we already know who to ask for damages hahaha.

Re: Disassembly and adjustment of double body carburetor. (Score 1)

by joancv2 on Tuesday, March 25 at 20:55:54
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Thanks to Jorge for his article on Disassembly and adjustment of a double body carburetor. Let's see if the
same thing is possible but for a monobody. Thank you.