Name: Student ID No.
: Course & Year:
Experiment No. 8
Waves
Objectives
1. To determine the differences in wave heights
2. To Infer factors that influences the wave height
Theory and Analysis
Waves are created by forces from the wind, or from movement of the Earth’s crust.
When wind blows, friction transfers the wind energy to the sea surface. This energy moves
water molecules in small oscillations, or circles. The water itself is not displaced.
Waves are the energy that is moving through the water. As waves move away from
the wind source, they lengthen and form swells. Seismic waves, or tsunamis, are created
when the Earth’s crust shifts. Wind and seismic waves are anatomically the same. The crest
is the high point on the wave, and the trough is the lowest, as shown in Figure 7.1 below.
Figure 7.1 The Anatomy of Wave
The distance from one crest to another crest (or one trough to another trough), is called
the wavelength. The wave period is the time it takes for one wavelength (two crests) to pass
a fixed point in space. Wavelengths are short at the point of origin, and expand over distances
(swells). Seismic waves have longer wavelengths and periods than wind-driven waves. As
waves near the shore, they are compressed by the decrease in water depth. The water builds
up until it eventually breaks and forms surf. When a wave breaks, the energy from the wave
is transferred to the shoreline.
Materials:
electric fan with variable speed
flashlight3
white paper (large)
timer
clear, shallow rectangular
container
tap water
metric rule
anemometer
Procedures:
1. Read and complete the lab safety form.
2. Fill the container nearly to the top with tap water.
3. Place a fan at one end of the container.
4. Turn the fan on low speed. After 3 minutes, measure the heights of the waves created
by the fan. Record
5. your measurements in Table 7.1.
6. Keep the fan on low and carefully observe the shadows of the waves on the white
paper. Record your
7. observations in Table 1.
8. After 5 minutes, measure and record the heights of the waves again. Record your
results in Table 1.
9. Repeat steps 6–8 with the fan on medium speed.
10. Repeat steps 6–8 with the fan on high speed.
Table 7.1 Wave Characteristics
Trial
Fans Speed (m/s) Wavelength (cm) height (cm)
1
6
Observation:
Questions:
1. Compare the heights of the waves the fan was on low, medium, and high speeds.
2. Did the heights of the waves change with time? Explain your answer.
3. Describe the movement of the water when the fan was turned off.
4. Based on your results, what factors influence wave length?
