Bulletin No.
644
How To Prune
Coniferous Evergreen Trees
D. W. McConnell
R. L. Mahoney
W. M. Colt
A. D. Partridge
Cooperative Extension System
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How To Prune Coniferous Evergreen Trees
D. W. McConnell, R. L. Mahoney, W. M. Colt, and A. D. Partridge
Evergreen shade trees in the cities and towns of Idaho Severe, extensive pruning is costly both to the land-
provide beauty and comfort. Unfortunately, these trees owner and the tree. Such practices can be avoided
are often neglected or improperly treated and thus, they through regular, judicious treatments where undesirable
become sickly, unsightly, and hazardous. Proper main- growth is periodically removed.
tenance of trees around homes and in parks can provide
maximum benefits and minimal problems. Coniferous Do I Need to Hire
evergreens normally do not require pruning. At times, A Professional Tree Surgeon?
however, carefully planned pruning is a necessary part The answer to this question will depend on several
of a complete tree maintenance program. factors: the size and location of the tree, your physical
ability and pruning knowledge, and your available time.
Pruning Objectives In the case of any large tree, or a tree near a home or
Pruning is the removal or reduction of certain parts of power lines, you should contact a professional tree sur-
a plant that are not desired or required, no longer effec- geon. When locating a tree surgeon, remember these
tive, or even injurious to the plant itself. The prime ob- points:
jective is to maintain the natural beauty of the plant and 1. Check the yellow pages for “Tree Service Companies.”
keep it as healthy as possible (Fig. 1). Pruning the crown Avoid ads such as “Treework, call . . .” (Fig. 2).
of a young tree helps to bring the crown and roots into
balance. A young tree can be trained into a desired shape
or form, within certain limitations. In addition, trees TREE SERVICE
should be maintained to protect homes, power lines, and
neighboring plants. It is important, therefore, that the
property owner make well-informed pruning decisions.
Fig. 2. Use the yellow pages to find reliable tree service
companies.
2. The contractor must be bonded and insured. The work
crew should have a copy of liability insurance in its
possession while on the job.
3. Ask for references of past work in the community.
If possible, take time to visit one or two of these
sites.
4. Require that the job be performed on a “job ba-
sis,” not an hourly rate. Use a written contract.
5. Ask for a full explanation of what the tree service
contractor thinks your tree needs, why it needs this
treatment, and what he intends to do to the tree. If
Fig. 1. Healthy plants . . . satisfied owner! you have uncertainties, get a second opinion.
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6. Don’t be forced into a quick decision by high pres- Again, most coniferous evergreens need little or no
sure or the offer of a “real deal.” Get a second or pruning given the proper situation. Broken or crowded
third estimate of necessary treatments and costs. limbs needing treatment will be infrequent if the tree
Whether you decide to prune your trees yourself or has been properly maintained. The size of older trees
hire a professional tree surgeon, read this publication, of some species can be controlled to a limited extent
and study the illustrations carefully. This information with careful pruning.
will also be useful when discussing the requirements of For coniferous species such as Grand fir, Western
your situation with a tree service contractor. If you have white pine, and the spruces, late winter to early spring
any questions, contact the University of Idaho Coopera- is the preferred time to prune. Do not prune live branches
tive Extension System office in your county for advice. during the growing season—late spring through sum-
mer. At this time, the bark is more easily damaged, cre-
When to Prune ating a high risk for fungal infection. Douglas-fir bark
One of the first occasions when a tree may require is easily damaged and may not produce enough resin to
pruning is when planted. Roots have been disturbed or protect a wound from fungal infection. With Douglas-
partly destroyed, and the branch structure should be fir, it is unsafe to prune branches larger than 11/2 to 2
brought into balance with the remaining root system. A inches in diameter due to this problem. Pruning spruce,
young tree, if well pruned and trained in its early life, however, stimulates resin production that helps protect
will need minimal pruning in later years. The removal cut surfaces from fungal infections.
of young, small limbs is quick and simple (Fig. 3). If With care, dead limbs may be removed at any time
pruning is delayed until limbs become large, they are from coniferous trees. Dead limbs may be identified by
more difficult to remove and will alter the appearance their lack of green foliage or live tissue under the bark.
and health of the tree. The best results come from prun- Use a knife to scrape away the outer bark of the suspect
ing a young, vigorous tree. branch. If the exposed tissue is dry, the branch is dead.
Tools for Pruning
Hand saws that cut on the pull stroke are recom-
mended for pruning as they provide excellent control
while being the easiest to use. Pole saws are useful
for pruning branches that are less than 20 feet above
the ground. Sharp and well-maintained bypass hand
shears are also recommended for the removal of small,
light branches. Figure 4 illustrates the preferred tools
for pruning.
Fig. 3. When to prune?
Most conifers have strong, central leaders and will
need little or no training unless nontypical growth is
desired. Pruning when planting involves thinning out
some of the branches that would become crowded or 6 to 12 feet
develop weak crotches and removing branches that cross
each other. Multiple leaders should be thinned to favor
the strongest or best-formed individual.
For established trees, annual inspections will show
whether pruning or other tree maintenance is necessary. Fig. 4. Recommended pruning tools.
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Hedge shears should not be used as they do not re- After locating the dead zone, look in the live zone
move branches cleanly. Likewise, anvil-cut hand shears for limbs that can be completely removed or for limbs
tend to crush the pruned stem, which slows the healing that are dead, diseased, or broken. If a branch is to be
process. Chainsaws are only recommended for prelimi- partially removed, make sure to leave a green shoot
nary or rough cuts in pruning. Most pruning should be near the cut or else the limb will die. The green shoot
done before branches ever reach a size that requires the will produce vigorous growth during the following
use of a chainsaw. growing season.
The use of axes for pruning should be avoided. The The growth habits of pines differ from the other ever-
rough stubs left by this treatment heal poorly; there is green species mentioned above. Pines do not develop a
also a higher risk of needlessly injuring a valuable shade prominent dead zone because their open crown does not
tree or yourself. cause severe self-shading. Some lower and inner
branches, however, will periodically die from self-shad-
Guidelines for Pruning Conifers ing and normal growth habits. Pines characteristically
Before pruning, consider your objectives, such as the produce branches in groups, or whorls, an important fact
desired size, shape, and density of the tree. At times, no to consider in proper pruning. See figure 6 for examples
amount of careful pruning will control the plant to your of these and other tree parts.
satisfaction. In such a case, removal and replacement
with a different plant may be the best treatment.
The dense growth characteristics of juniper, arborvi- leader
tae, and similar species produce a dead interior zone
where the twigs and buds are killed from severe self- side branches
shading (Fig. 5). The dead zone limits the extent of prun-
ing. If it is exposed by severe pruning, new shoots will
not develop from the exposed area. The result is a de- whorl
formed and unsightly plant.
internode
main stem or trunk
Fig. 6. Important parts of a coniferous
evergreen to know when pruning.
Again, before pruning, consider your objectives for
the tree, especially concerning the size and shape. Small
pines are often pruned to produce a pyramidal, Christmas
tree form. Pruning will shorten the space between the whorls
of a pine, producing a fuller, more compact plant.
Begin by cutting back the central leader at the top to
an 8- to 12-inch stub (Fig. 7A). This cut should be just
dead zone above a well-formed bud. If possible, select a bud on
the north side of the branch in order to form the
straightest growth. South-facing buds tend to grow out-
ward rather than upward.
Next, prune the side branches around the top until they
are 4 to 6 inches shorter than the central leader. Continue
pruning the remaining side branches in a manner that will
produce a uniform pyramid shape (Fig. 7B).
If the leader of a tree has been broken, a side branch
can be trained to become the new leader. This process
would occur naturally but usually results in two or more
Fig. 5. Dead zone of juniper and arborvitae.
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Step A Step B
Fig. 7. Two steps to pruning the leader of a pine tree.
Step A Step B
Fig. 8. How to train a branch to replace a broken leader on a coniferous evergreen.
branches competing with one another as multiple lead- limbs. The branches of larger pine trees will respond
ers. To prevent this, cut back the remnant of the main in a similar fashion. Be sure to prune only the newer
stem to a point just above the uppermost whorl of growth, leaving green needles on the cut branches to
branches (Fig. 8A). produce more buds.
Prune one of the branches to a length of 6 to 10 inches. When pruning larger evergreen trees, it is often desir-
Gently bend the limb to an upright position and hold it able to remove lower branches in order to improve ac-
in place with a stake and string (Fig. 8B). Finally, prune cess around the tree. As much as one-third of the crown
the other branches in the whorl back to restore the pyra- of full-crowned evergreens may be removed without
midal shape of the tree. affecting the vigor of the tree (Fig. 9). The lower crown,
Pruning pines will stimulate bud development from however, should only be removed when absolutely nec-
the needle bunches below each cut. These buds will essary. The fully crowned tree in figure 9 is obviously
increase the density of the tree by producing more superior in beauty and utility.
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Do Not Top Evergreens!
An unsatisfactory approach to tree maintenance for
any tree is to top it. Topping is the removal of all branches
of a mature tree above an arbitrary height, leaving un-
natural, grotesque stubs.
Large evergreen trees do not respond well to topping.
The removal of the upper main stem through topping
opens the tree to internal decay, disease, or damaging
insects; it also removes the most productive portion of
the crown of the tree. The result is that the tree becomes
a hazard to itself, neighboring trees, and your property
(Fig. 11).
Before After
Fig. 9. Before and after: the removal of lower branches
from a coniferous evergreen will improve access
around the tree without affecting its vigor.
When removing a heavy limb, follow a three-cut pro-
cess as follows. Make the first cut 1 to 2 feet away from
the base of the limb on the underside of the branch; this
cut should be made through approximately one-third of
the branch. Make the second cut from above, just out-
side the first cut; it should completely sever the branch.
Finally, make the third cut just outside the limb collar, par- Fig. 11. A topped tree becomes both grotesque and
allel to the attached limb or to the tree trunk if attached hazardous.
there. Figure 10 shows these three basic steps in pruning.
The practice of topping to control tree size or growth
is not justified. If the tree is too large to fit the space, it
should be removed and replaced with a smaller species.
Be aware that unprofessional tree service crews use this
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approach because it takes little skill and is easiest for
3
them to perform. Do not let yourself be persuaded that
1
topping serves your best interest; both you and your tree
will suffer from such mistreatment.
Fig. 10. Use three cuts when removing a large branch. Pruning Mature Evergreens Near
Powerlines
When making this third cut, support the stub. This
process will permit the basal cut to be made smoothly, We strongly recommend that you hire a profes-
without the risk of binding a saw or peeling the bark. sional tree maintenance service when pruning near
In larger evergreen trees, remove any dead or broken overhead powerlines. Always notify the power
branches and any branch stubs. Be sure to make the cut company before beginning work.
surfaces as flush with the bark as possible. For branches
that noticeably swell where they join the main stem, Pruning around powerlines is necessary to prevent line
make the final cut at the point where the branch begins damage and other hazards. It should be done, however,
to flare. This leaves a smaller cut surface that will heal in an aesthetically pleasing manner that is also good for
more rapidly (Fig. 10, cut 3). Also, any branches that ap- the tree.
pear crowded should be thinned to favor a single, stronger Directional pruning involves the opening of paths
branch. Strong branches can be identified by the wide through the crown of the tree for the wires. While this
branching angle between the trunk and the limb. method may appear more expensive than others, it gives
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the most lasting benefits with the least disfigurement of Wound Care for Evergreens
the tree. Thus, it costs less in the long run, and valuable Open wounds can expose trees to unnecessary dam-
large trees can be retained (Fig. 12). age from insects and disease. With simple treatment,
wounds can be encouraged to heal rapidly and so pro-
tect valuable trees.
To promote rapid healing, trim the bark around the
wound into an elliptical shape, creating a clean wound
edge. It is best to use a sharp knife that has been steril-
ized with methyl alcohol or a household bleach. The
elliptical shape around the wound prevents water from
pooling in the wound and improves the sap flow that
heals the wound (Fig. 13). Wounds should be allowed
to dry as quickly as possible to avoid the entrance of
insects or disease.
Fig. 13. A clean-edged, elliptical cut promotes healing of
tree wounds.
Fig. 12. Directional pruning can help retain large trees near
powerlines, but this kind of pruning should be
performed by a professional tree service. Tree dressings and pruning paints do not increase the
healing rate of a properly cut surface. Asphalt tree dress-
Pruning Diseased Evergreens ings are cosmetic treatments often used on large basal
At times it is necessary to prune a tree to remove or cuts to make the tree “look better.” Any paint used to
prevent the further spread of a disease. Under such con- cover a wet wound or one from which sap is seeping
ditions, great care should be exercised so that the prun- may entrap disease or decay-causing fungi so that heal-
ing will not promote the spread of the disease. Dead or ing is hampered rather than promoted. House paints used
infected branches harbor pathogens that are easily carried on wounds will often kill living tissue, thus enlarging
by cutting tools. Saws and other tools used in this work the wound. While most home gardeners believe that tree
should be dipped in alcohol or household bleach between dressings aid healing and prevent infection, no evidence
each cut in order to kill any pathogen which might be car- supports this theory. Dressing a completely dry wound
ried on the tool. Lightly oil all pruning tools after use. after the first growing season would cause no harm to
Sanitation pruning cuts should be done well away from the tree and it probably would have no benefit. We rec-
infected wood. Be sure to make your cut in live wood at ommend, therefore, that you do not use any type of tree
least 4 to 6 inches below the last indication of dieback or wound dressing.
disease. Branches and debris from such pruning should be
burned as soon as possible and as close to the site as con- Common Coniferous Evergreen Trees
venient to minimize the danger of spreading the disease. Found in Idaho
Avoid pruning diseased trees in wet weather. Both the The following list of trees represents the most com-
plants and the air should be dry for several days before mon coniferous evergreens found in cities and towns in
pruning and until the pruned debris is burned. An ex- Idaho:
tended period of dry weather during late summer is an Douglas-fir, Grand fir, White fir, Eastern red cedar,
example of a good time to prune diseased branches. The Western red cedar, Northern white cedar, Ponderosa
risk of spreading disease spores through tools or the pine, Scots pine, Austrian pine, Western white pine,
careless handling of infected material is greatly de- Rocky Mountain juniper, Alberta spruce, Norway
creased during dry weather. spruce, Colorado blue spruce, and Englemann spruce.
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Acknowledgment
This publication was developed, in part, from infor-
mation supplied by the University of Illinois, Kansas
State University, and Montana State University. It was
prepared in cooperation with the University of Idaho
College of Agriculture, the UI College of Forest, Wild-
life and Range Sciences, and the USDA Cooperative
Extension Service.
About the Authors
Douglass McConnell is a former Extension for-
estry assistant, Ronald Mahoney is Extension for-
ester, and Arthur D. Partridge is a former professor
of forest resources, all at the UI College of Forest,
Wildlife and Range Sciences in Moscow. W. Michael
Colt is Extension horticulturist at the UI Parma Re-
search and Extension Center.
Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture and home economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation
with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, LeRoy D. Luft, Director of Cooperative Extension System, University of Idaho, Moscow, Idaho
83844. The University of Idaho provides equal opportunity in education and employment on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin,
gender, age, disability, or status as a Vietnam-era veteran, as required by state and federal laws.
Published 1985; Reprinted 1998 $1.50 per copy
