IIS-YU t\

c proved

mpisj

mnmiMciurttd t

{Tympany oi 0uelpb,

f
TheEDITH and LORNE PIERCE
COLLECTION o/CANADIANA

Queen's University at Kingston

 INSTRUCTIONS M4-.

FOR USING

The New
Improved RAYMON

FAMILY
Sewing Machines
and Attachments.

1902
2 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

Introductory.
Purchasers of the Raymoxd should study carefully the
directions contained infthis book, wherein information
will be found that may be required concerning any part
of the machine. The machine, accessories, and attachments are
all the best, and should be thoroughly understood by the operator
in order to obtain the best results. To know what the machine
will do, and how to do it, you rfrust carefully study the instruc-
tions in this book from beginning to end. By so doing you will
find constant delight and surprise at the variety of work that
can be accomplished, and at the simplicity and perfection of the
appliances that produce such wonderful results.

General Remarks*
Before operating the machine see that every part is oiled and
cleaned, in order that its parts may work freely and be preserved
from undue wear.
After sewing, clean the machine from lint and dust before
putting away.
Practice plain sewing first, until you become thoroughly
proficient, before trying the attachments.
Poor work is caused in most cases either from a crooked
needle or a needle not the right ^ize for the thread used, or
because the needle is not set propeipy in the needle bar, or from
the belt being very loose.
When ordering needles give the number of the machine, which
is stamped on the stitch regulating plate.
Do not runthe machine when the presser foot is down unless
there cloth under the foot. If you do the points of the feed will
is
be ground off, and the under surface of the foot will be made rough.
Don't allow any person who is interested in the sale of any
other machine to meddle with yonv "Raymond" machine; they
will not do it any good, and probably put it out of order, and
then pronounce it good for nothing. Every Raymond machine is
sent out in proper condition. If any difficulty occurs always
refer to the nearest Raymond agent, or to the firm. Don't
attempt 3^ourself to take the machine apart or loosen any screws
that hold parts together, as you may get the machine out of
time.

/ 3j~\/
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND.

Difficulties Cbat may Arise From Operators

not following Instructions*
Breaking the Upper Thread, may be caused by the
needle being improperly set, the upper tension being too tight, or
the needle being: too small for the thread used.
Breaking" the Lower Thread, may be caused by the
shuttle tension being too tight, or In- the bobbin being wound
too full so as to prevent it from turning freely in the shuttle.
ARough Throat Plate Hole, will also cause either
—
thread to break the hole being made rough b\ the needle not
r

being set straight, or the operator pulling the goods so that the
needle strikes the edge of the hole.
Skipping Stitches, may result from the following causes,
viz. — From the needle being improperly set or becoming bent,
:

(see directions for changing needUe) From the thread being too
:

coarse for the needle used the thread does not then run easily in
;

the eye of the needle, and the result is that the loop through
which the needle has to pass is not well formed, and the stitch
escapes: From allowing the point of shuttle to become bruised
or broken through carelessness.
The Material Wrinkles or Puckers, because one of
the threads, or both at once, are drawn too tight, or because the
needle has no point.

Study the Instruction Book.

Caution*
Do not begin to sew until you are able to start the machine
without letting it run backwards, or to keep up the regular
motion and to guide the goods.
Do not run the machine when it is threaded, unless there is
cloth under the foot.
Never pull the goods you are sewing to help the feed, for you
may bend the needle. The machine will feed without any
assistance.
Be careful about letting dust or lint gather under the shuttle
tension spring or inside the shuttle, for anything under the ten-
sion spring will make the tension inoperative, or anything inside
the shuttle will keep the bobbin from working properly.
 L

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

^01
OIL

01U

OIL OIL

OIL

/
OIL OIL OIL
When to oil, see page 5.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND.

Olbere to Oil the machine.

1st. The oil hole on cap of needle bar.
2nd. The oil hole near the presser bar nut on top of the face
plate.

3rd. Turn up the monogram plate on the front side of the arm
and oil the roll in the cam through the hole in the take-up
lever, also oil take-up pin through hole on top of arm.

4th. Oil the gib slot on the rear of cap.

5th. Oil the three holes on top of arm near the head.
6th. Oil hole at end of arm near the balance wheel.
7th. Oil hole in the balance wheel.
8th. Oil holes near the base of the arm, under the bobbin winder,
through which you reach the points of the little steel
shaft in the hub of the ball lever.
9th. Oil the bobbin winder spindles, where they play in the
bracket.
10th. Turn the plate on the side of the arm, and oil at top of
connection with crank, and at the connection with ball
lever.

11th. Put a few drops occasionally on the felt in the hole under
the front shuttle slide to oil the shuttle race.

To Oil Under the Bed of Machine

Throw the belt off and turn the head back on its hinges. The
places to oil are :

1st. The ball lever joint.

2nd. The cone next to the plate, and oil hole in the long lever
which carries the shuttle.
3rd. The bearing at lower end of the connection.
4th. Oil holes at each end of the feed shaft, and feed shaft driver.
5th. The face of the little cam that moves the feed bar.
6th. Occasionally a little on each end of the feed bar.
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

The Places to Oil the Stand are : The oil holes in the
legs at each end of the balance
wheel shaft ; top and bottom „
the wooden pitman, and the bearings of the treadle

Che Belt.
tW > T 6 W. ?
hi runs mac hine should
i7el^
lint
™?Jff
^u\X£
k-n*
Sl
i8hter;
Ifthe belt becomes
the

cut off from one end enough to give

be tight enough so
by havin ^ itso the hi
too loose uncouple it and
™ ™
the desired length.
It will be noticed that on the
drive wheel of our stand ma-
chine, ,s cast a projecting lip.
This lip catching the belt enabTs
the operator to throw the belt
into the drive wheel groove bv
simply starting the machine with
the foot, thereby avoWi^g the
trouble of moving the chair back and
stooping or feacWng under
<"-"ing untier
the table to replace the belt by hand.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND.

Belt Shifter for Drop Read machine*

This belt shifter simplifies and makes easy the often annoying
task or' throwing off. and replacing the belt. To Throw Off
the Belt, press the small lever attached to the dress guard to
the left with the forefinger, keeping up the motion of the treadle.
To Put On the Belt, allow the lever to spring back to its
place and operate the treadle as in sewing. A single revolu-
tion of the wheel will bring the belt back in place.

«& J*

Co Stop the motion.

The Stop Motion on the machine is to allow the operator to
wind a bobbin without running the machine. This permits the
operator to wind a bobbin with the work in process without
taking the goods from the machine or interfering with the upper
thread.
The Stop Motion is regulated by the small wheel on the out-
wheel being turned towards 3 ou to stop the
side of the balance T

machine running, and from you to start it again.

Co Practice the Creadle motion.

Release the Balance Wheel as explained (see Stop Motion),
put your foot upon the treadle, and turn the balance wheel over
towards you with the right hand— this will start the machine.
Keep the motion up by pressing alternately with the heel and
toe until you obtain a regular motion then put the machine
;

into gear by turning small wheel on the outside of balance wheel

from you (see Stop Motion) and operate the same as before,
,

with the presser foot up, so that it may not dull the face of the
feed.

Next place some goods in the machine, let the presser foot
down, and continue the treadle motion. Keep this practice up
until you acquire a smooth even motion.
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

BOBBIN WINDER
.CURVE

TAKE UP
LEVER

BOBBIN
WINDER
FLIP

Co Wind the Bobbin.

First, detach the balance wheel by holding it in the left hand,
and turning the small wheel or nut on outside of balance wheel
towards you with the right hand. This will allow the balance
wheel to revolve freely without turning the machine then place
;

the bobbin in the bobbin winder and the spool of thread on spool
pin on top of the machine. Pass the thread from spool No. 2
over thread guide, above tension screw, secure the free end of the
thread by placing it between the bead of the bobbin and the cup
on bobbin winder, pass the thread up over the curve, down be-
hind the winder, and hitch the thread on to the projection at the
bottom of bobbin winder frame (be sure to do this), tun the
thread twice across the bobbin, put up the presser flip under-
neath and operate the treadle the same as in sewing.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND

Co thread the Shuttle.

Take the shuttle between the thumb
-end of bobbin
and finders of the left hand with its
point towards 3:011. Drop the bobbin
into the shuttle and press it gently on Shuttle slot
the end with the forefinger of the left
hand to present bobbin from turning,
then take end of thread in right hand
and draw it into slot in shuttle, pull the
thread under spring on shuttle towards
the point until it passes under and
-PROJECTING
around the projecting point on spring ;
POINT OF
then the shuttle will be ready for use. SHUTTLE SPRING

Co Put the Shuttle in

machine.
Pull the slide that covers the shuttle race out to end of open-
ing, have the shuttle carrier at the end of race towards you, then
put the shuttle into the carrier with the point towards you and
tension spring up, closing the slide. Do not run the machine with
the shuttle in when the slide is open.

Co Change and Set the needle*

Raise the needle bar to its highest point and loosen the
thumb screw ; allow the needle to be taken out.
this will To
set the needle, hold the needle in the left hand with flat side of
shank towards the arm of machine put the needle up in the
;

clamp as far as will go, and tighten the thumb screw.

it After
tightening the screw, see that the needle passes down the centre
of the hole in the needle plate.

& ^
Co Cbread the machine*
Pass the thread from spool No. 1 over the thread guide above
the tension spring, then down and into the slot at lower end of
tension spring, then up and into take-up lever, down through
thread guides on face plate and needle bar, and into eye of needle.
10 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

Preparing to Sew*
Place the shuttle in the carrier leaving about three inches ot
thread projecting from shuttle, then close the slide with the left
hand, take hold of needle thread having three inches of slack
thread between the hand and the needle. Turn the balance wheel
towards you until the needle moves down and up again to its
highest point, this will catch the shuttle thread, draw up the
loose end of needle thread and this will bring up the shuttle thread
through the hole in the throat plate, lay both thread ends back
over the feed, place the work under the needle, lower the presser
foot upon the work and commence to sew. Be sure to turn the
balance wheel towards you.

Co Regulate the tensions.

To regulate the under stitch, turn the tension thumb screw at
the side of face plate nearest the operator, over to the right to
tighten the tension, and to the le'ft to loosen the tension. The
upper stitch is regulated by small screvtl near the point of the
shuttle on top side ; to tighten the tension turn the screw to the
right, to loosen the tension, turn the screw to the left, using the
small screw driver.
When properly regulated the stitch will lock in centre of the
goods.

Co Alter tbo Length of Stitch.

At the base of the arm on the front side of the machine will
be
found a thumb screw acting in a slot. Loosen the screw, and
slide it to the right to lengthen the stitch, and to the left to
shorten the stitch, then tighten the screw to keep it in place.

Co Change the Pressure on material.

The pressure of the foot is presumed to be right for ordinary
sewing, when machine leaves the factory, but can be regulated by
the screw on top of the machine, through which the presser bar
passes. To increase the pressure, turn the screw to the right, or
downwards; to lessen the pressure turn the screw to the left, or
upwards. For very thick material it may be necessary to in-
crease the pressure so that the work may feed properly, and for
light material to decrease it so as to avoid cutting the work.
Do not pull the goods through while stitching, as this is very
often the cause of needles breaking.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND 11

Co Remove ibe iUork*

Have the needle up to its highest point, also raise the presser
foot to its highest point, dm w the work from you and to the
left, cutting the thread, with thread cutter on machine, so as to
leave about three inches of the thread for starting to sew again.

Co Cum a Sharp Corner*,

Stop the machine when the needle is down, raise the presser
foot and turn the work in the manner desired, using the point of
the needle as a pivot, l>ut without letting eye of the needle enter
the goods.

Cloth Guide.
To fasten cloth guide on the machine, take the cloth guide
thumb screw, let it pass through opening in guide and fasten to
the machine by turning the screw into the hole at the right hand
of throat plate.

needles and Cbread*

It is very important what quality of needles and thread you
use to get the best results. Be sure to get the genuine Raymond
Needle. They may be had from any of our agents. Use the best
of thread and follow table of sizes, as given below:

Cable of Sizes of needles and thread.

No. of
CLASS OF MATERIAL No. of Cotton,
Needle. Linen or Silk.

100 to 150 Cotton,

Very thin Muslin, Cambrics, Linen, etc \
000 to 00 Silk Twist.
Very fine Calicoes, Linens, Shirtings, fine Silk f 80 to 100 Cotton,
Goods, etc ^ Silk Twist.
Shirtings, Sheetings, Bleached Calicoes, Muslins, ( 60 to 80 Cotton,
Silk, etc \A & B Silk Twist.
Heavy Calicoes. Light Woolen Goods, Heavy/ 40 to 60 Cotton,
Silk, and all classes of general work \ iC Silk Twist.
Tickings, Woolen Goods, Trousers, Cloaks,/ 120 to 40 Cotton,
Mantles, Corsets, Clothing, etc \ D Silk Twist.
24 to 30 Cotton.
Heavy Woolens, Tickings, Bags, Heavy Coats,]
Trousers, etc., Heavy Clothing generally..
E Silk Twist,
] 60 to 80 Linen.
In ordering needles always give the size required. For relative size of needle
and thread see also the table of same on slide over the shuttle race.
Note.— When bad or spurious needles are used, it is no fault of the machine if
it gives bad results.
12 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

The Binder Binding.

Raise the needle to its highest point, loosen the thumb nut
whieh holds the presser foot, and substitute the binder for the
presser foot, then put the binding or braid through the scroll of
the binder and draw it back under the needle. Place the edi^t of
the goods to be bound between the scrolls of the binder and draw
it under the needle ;lower the presser bar and sew as usual.
Bias Binding- should be cut full three-quarters of an inch wide.
In binding with dress braid, proceed the same as explained above
the only difference is the dress braid being narrower, the edges
will not be turned under, as is the case with bias binding. In
Binding Scallops, after binding around the curves, stop the
machine with the needle in the goods and fold the elbow or angle
of the following scallop, so as to form as straight a line as possi-
ble, then continue the binding, holding the goods being bound a
little firmer than the binding, which prevents it being drawn.
To make French Folds, pass the binding through the binder
and sew as usual, stitching the edges together.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND. 13

The Foot Hemmer Hemming.

Raise the needle to its highest point remove the presser foot
;

and insert in its place the foot hemmer, clip off the right hand
corner of the cloth, so as to enable it to pass easily into the scroll
of the hemmer, turn up the edge of the goods about a quarter of
an inch, insert it in the mouth of the hemmer and draw or push
it along with the stiletto until under the needle ; then let down
the presser bar and start the ma chine. Hold the edge of the
goods between the thumb and the forefinger of the right hand
while it is being hemmed, keeping the mouth of the hemmer just
full. Should the edge of the goods begin to run out of the hem-
mer, move the hand to the right. Should too much cloth run
in, carrv to the left.
14 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

Hemming and Sewing on Lace in One Operation.

The foot hemmer which accompanies this machine is made
with a slot cut on right side to enable the operator to make a
hem and sew on lace at the same time. Start the hem as pre-
viously explained, and when it is well started, raise the needle to
its highest point, then raise the hemmer to relie^ e its pressure on
the hem, pass the end of the lace through the slot in the side of the
hemmer, carrying it under the back of the hemmer, and on top of
the hem. See that the hem is not displaced in the hemmer, and
that the needle will go down through the lace and hem together,
then let down the presser bar, and guide the lace over the front of
the hemmer, keeping it well into the slot.

Hem —
Stitching. Insert blotting paper between two pieces
of goods, sew a straight seam, using the ordinary presser foot,
remove the paper by bending and tearing it carefully. A row of
stitching on each side of the hem-stitch makes a pretty finish. The
size of the hem-stitch depends on the thickness of paper inserted.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND. 15

The Foot Hemmer Felling.

Attach the hemmer to the machine in place of the presserfoot,
felled with the foot hemmer on, which will
sew the seams to be
serve in place of the regular presser foot;
place the two pieces of
material to be sewed together with the edge of the under seam
projecting one-quarter inch beyond the upper piece, sew as near
the edge of the upper piece as the safety of seam will admit, until
the seam is completed, then la\- the work out flat, wrong side up,
the edges standing up straight and taking the work near the
teginning of the first seam in the right hand, and the ends of the
thread in the left hand, draw the edges into the hemmer without
disarranging the work, and proceed the same as ordinary hem-
ming. The feller may be adjusted to the right or left, so as to
sew to the edge of the fell or near the first seam as desired,
16 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

Wide Hemming.
Witli each machine are furnished four hemmers of assorted
widths. Select the width of hemmer you desire to use, and sub-
stitute it for the ordinary presser foot. You will see that itcan
be adjusted to the right or left a little, so as to stitch as close to
the edge of the hem as desired, by loosening the set screw of the
attachment holder, and swinging the hemmer to desired position.
Take the cloth in both hands, the right hand in front of the
hemmer, and the left behind, enter the edge of the cloth into the
hemmer and draw it back and forth until the hem is formed,
stopping with the end under the needle. Lower the presser foot
and commence to sew, being careful to so guide the cloth as to
keep the hemmer full.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND 17

The Quilter.

Take the thread cutter out of its position, by loosening the

set screw which holds it ; insert the quilter in its place with the
indicator or flat end to the right. Having obtained the distance
required between the seams, fasten the quilter firmly with the
small set screw, leaving the flat end of quilter high enough so the
goods will pass under freely. Keep the first row of stitching
straight by a mark, or basting thread, — all succeeding rows are
made straight and at a uniform distance by keeping the row last
made steadily under the guide.
 —

18 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

The Ruffler Ruffling.

Remove the presser foot and attach the ruffler in its place,
connecting the lever of the ruffler with the needle clamp of the
machine. Place the goods to be ruffled between the blades of the
ruffler, push forward the goods until under the needle, lower the
presser bar and proceed.
To Regulate the —
Ruffler. The ruffler is regulated b}' the
thumb screw on the end of the lever. If full gathers are required,
turn the adjusting screw to the left, or to the right for fine
gathers for the latter it is always better to have a short stitch.
;

Oil the wearing points of the rui&r before using.

Ruffling- Between Bands, (as for making aprons).

Place the lower band under the ruffler, having the right side of the
goods up, place the apron into the ruffler gauge, then place the
top band over or on top of the ruffler gauge, and under the ruffler
foot. This operation will blind stitch the band on each side of
the apron.
 THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND 19

The Ruffler Shirring.

Remove the lower or separator plate from the ruffler, and

attach the ruffler to the presser bar as already instructed. To
attach the shirring plate, remove the slide over the shuttle and
put the shirring plate in its place, then place the cloth between
the ruffling blade and the shirring plate, lower the presser bar
and operate as in ruffling.
Ruffling and Sewing in Piping.— Place the goods for
the ruffle into the ruffler the sambas for plain ruffling, then insert
the piping into the gauge nearest the ruffle gauge, drawing it
through under the foot, insert the folded edge of the band into
the gauge nearest the needle, drawing it also under the foot.

The Ruffler Puffing.— Cut the goods as wide as the puff

is wanted, allowing for seams, and ruffle each edge alternately,
same as in ruffling.
20 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

The Tucker.
Remove the presser foot and attach the tucker in its place.
On the tucker will be noticed an adjusting screw directly to ;

the right of screw will be seen a scale to determine the width of

Tuck, and the scale to give the distance between the tucks will be
found on the tongue of the tuck-marker. To adjust the tucker
loosen the adjusting screw and this will allow the gauges to slide,
having set the gauges to the proper distance required, tighten the
adjusting screw and this will hold them in place. To make tucks
of any desired width, just meet, set the two gauges so that
the indicators will point to the same figure on both scales. To
make a space between tucks, mo^e the marker as much farther to
the left as space desired.
To Operate the Tucker, make the first fold in the usual
manner by hand, pass the folded edge under the spring or tongue on the marking
plate, with the part that is to be tucked on top, draw to the right until the edge
comes against the gauge and from you until it covers the feed, lower the presser
foot and sew as usual, being careful to keep the folded edge against the guide.
Fold carefully at the crease in making other tucks, and proceed as before. A very
little oil should occasionally be applied to the working parts of the tucker.
 A THE NEW IMPROVED RAYMOND. 21

The Under-Braider Braiding.

Substitute the under-braider for the regular presser foot,
then remove the shuttle slide and put in its plaee the under-
braider slide, next draw the braid through the tube on the slide

and a little past the needle. The pattern to be braided should be

stamped on the wrong side of Xjie cloth. Having the machine
properly threaded, proceed to sew the braid on, carefully follow-
ing the lines of the pattern this operation stitches the braid on
;

the cloth from the under side.

22 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING i

Attachments.

The above cut represents our full set of attachments, which

we supply with each machine, enclosed in a handsome metal case,
specially prepared for their reception. When not in use each part
should be replaced in box in its respective position.

Cbe Raymond
manufacturing Company of Guclpb
Ciinitcd
/
o "
 I

i
I I