Grim Reaper Expansion Pack Sewing Pattern
Grim Reaper Expansion Pack Sewing Pattern
expansion pack
sewing pattern
www.cholyknight.com
grim reaper expansion pack 2
introduction
gr im r eaper
expansion pack sewing pattern
With the partner Chubby Grim Reaper pattern, you can make a tiny Grim Reaper
with a simple body. But what if you want to make reapers from some of my other doll
patterns? What if you want to make a deer reaper, a bird reaper, or a dragon
reaper?
Well, this expansion pack has you covered!
=
1. First you'll need any of the doll patterns 2.
If you have a humanoid pattern, these
shown here as a base to start.
instructions will show you how to swap the
patter n key
Here is a list of all the pattern pieces available. You'll find notes on where
you need to
make a choice on design. See below for how the different design options look.
See the next page for where all the templates can be found in the document.
(D2)
B1 head front
E sleeve
For animals with tails
F1 basic outer hood
B2 chin
F2 hood lining
B3 head back
slotted hood
B4 front ears G1 front
B5 back ears G2 outer hood back
G3 hood back lining
pick one skull style:
A or B scythe (H):
(or keep the original head
from your base pattern if H1 handle
desired)
back with wing & tail
H2 blade
opening (D3)
tails
ears or horns
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 4
printing the pattern
patter n layout
To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 43-56. The print
layout below shows where each piece from the pattern key can be found. If you’re
unfamiliar with printing and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps on the next
page.
human
kitty skull
A2
(B):
skull (A): B5
pg. 1-2 A1 B4
B1 pg. 2-3
1 2
3
pg. 43-44 of
pg. 44-45 of
document
document
B3
A3
B2
applique
templates
pg. 4-6
4 5
6
pg. 46-48 of
document
7 8E 9
10
document
D1
H2
plain robe
robe hood for
hood:
ears or horns:
pg. 11-12 G1
pg. 13-14
pg. 53-54 of
F2 F1
G3 G2 pg. 55-56 of document
11 12 13
14
document
Starter tools
If you’re new to sewing and a little baffled by all the sewing tools
needed to get started,
check out the list here. It describes all the absolute basics for tackling a
project in a format that
lets you choose how much you want to spend. Some of these items you might already
have around
the house!
As you collect tools for your arsenal over time, consider adding tools
that are more job-specific --
these items come with the note suggesting buying all 3. Just buy these in the order
shown as your funds
allow. This will build your collection from more generic tools to more specific,
and you’ll be able to tackle
more techniques and projects in the future!
GOOD
BETTER BEST
your hands!
starter mid-range
sewing machine
about sewing.
Most basic
Nice for hand Prevents tangles
polyester threads
sewn parts in your thread
are perfect for
that need extra for machine and
plush sewing.
strength, like hand-sewing.
Nothing fancy required. attaching heads,
eyes, & noses, etc.
GOOD
BETTER BEST
↓ CONSIDER BUYING ALL 3 AS FUNDS
ALLOW ↓
sharps
universal fabric
needles specific
needles
A basic
hand-sewing Can handle a
needles
needle you’ll variety of
basic If using special
always need plush fabrics
fabric, pick up
regardless of on a sewing machine. Might be
needles that are specific to it, such
whether or not you have a machine. troublesome on specialty
fabrics. as stretch needles for knits.
chopstick
point turner hemostats
point turning
Narrow and
Specifically A medical tool
precise, but just
designed to turn that’s narrow and
blunt enough
points, so it works blunt but also
to avoid poking
very intuitively. grips. Turns thin
holes in your
Hard to get very pieces and grabs
project. Can find them everywhere. narrow areas
though. stuffing. Incredibly useful.
pencils
chalk fabric
fabric marking
Usually washes
Great on dark marker
out or brushes
fabrics. Brushes Specially
away. It’s hard
away easily; designed to mark
to mark some
even better with fabrics and wash
slippery or fluffy
a cloth. Not as away with water.
fabrics. Chalk works better for that. precise as a pencil
or a marker. Precise, clear, and easy to use.
Seam ripper
iron/ironing board
and...
Don’t need anything fancy for this.
Unlike other types of sewing, plush
Everyone makes mistakes and
projects don’t need much ironing.
everyone needs a seam ripper.
But they’re handy for fusible web
skull heads
If you're working with a humanoid
doll pattern or
animal doll pattern, you have the
option to swap out the
head with a cartoony skull shape.
This new head shape
has chubby 3D teeth as well as a
smooth scalp with or
without kitty ears.
This section will go over how to
make these skulls as
well as how to attach them to the
rest of your doll.
chubby
• Kitty skull (B)
teeth
also needed:
tiny
fangs
skills used:
• fusible web applique Or keep your doll's head the
same, and give
• sewing curves it skull applique (skip to the
next section):
(straight to curved
pieces, inner to outer
curves, outer to outer dragon doll with
skull applique
deer
curves, etc.)
doll with
skull
• darts
applique
• top stitching
• matching notches
and points
MATERIALS:
suggested fabrics:
• ¼ yd. of fabric for skull head
minky or fleece
• 4” x 4” scrap of black applique
fabric (such as felt, cotton, flannel)
Use the same fabric as the one used for the
for eye sockets and nose
body of your doll. In all cases, that's minky
• optional 2" x 2" scrap of accent
or fleece.
applique fabric for accent eyes
Medium-weight versions with a bit of
• 5” x 5” scrap of light or heavy duty
stretch along the crosswise grain of the
fusible web
fabric work the best. Try to avoid very thick
¼ yd.; 9” long
A1
B1
B2
n a p / p i le
A3 A3
n
a p / p i le
B3 B3
A2
B5 B5 B4 B4
13” wide
18” wide
a. Grab your fusible web and your face templates and trace the pieces you want
for your skull.
You'll want two eye sockets, a nose, and optional accent eyes.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the wrong side of
your applique fabrics.
The eye sockets and nose should be fused to black, and the accent eyes to an
accent color (like
yellow here).
c. Cut out the face pieces and arrange your eye sockets on the head front piece
of your
choosing (A1/B1). Set your paper pattern on top of the fabric piece (right
sides up). Then, align
the applique piece on top where the placement markings are. Next carefully pull
the paper
pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
2
applique
whip stitch
3
straight
1
stitch
a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch. This is sewing
around the edge of
the applique using the standard stitch on your machine and matching thread. Sew
about ⅛" in
from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand. A whip stitch works well here. Thread a hand-
sewing needle
with some matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the
project; about
1/8” in from the edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from
the curve, just
outside of the applique shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the
previous stitch and 1/8”
in from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just
outside the applique
shape. Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
2 2
2
2
2
2
pivot pivot
around around
teeth teeth
a. Grab your skull head front for either a human or kitty (A1 or B1). Also grab
the
corresponding chin (A2 or B2). Align the chin over the bottom of the head front
so right sides
are facing and the teeth match up. The corners of the chin have point 2
markings that should
match up with the head for help with alignment.
b. Sew the chin to the head between each of the point 2 markings. Be sure to go
around the
teeth as well and pivot at each corner.
top
stitch top stitch
between
teeth between teeth
visible.
a. Next, grab your front ears (B4). The straight edge of these ears will attach
to the inner
curve along the top of the head front (B1). There are notch markings for extra
help (so the
pieces don't get flipped the wrong way).
b. Grab one of the inner curves of the head front and stretch the fabric so the
single notches
match up. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head front to the ear along the single notched edge.
d. Repeat with the other front ear on the other side of the head front.
dart stitching
sides facing so the slanted
into fold
edges of the dart match
up.
b. Sew the dart starting at
the opening and working
toward the fold of the
fabric. Try to blend your
stitching into the fold so it → Continue ahead to step
7 for a kitty skull and step
makes a smooth transition 8 for a human skull.
and a rounder finish.
head back
We're going to attach
to line up
them just like with the
notches
head front in step 5. This
time, they're marked with
double notches.
b. Stretch the inner curve of
the head back to fit along
the back ear so the double
a
b
notches match up.
sew
along two head
c. Sew the head back to the
double-notched back pieces
ear along this edge. edge
d. Repeat with both head
back and back ear pieces
so you have two backs
total.
c
d
stop at
opening for
turning
a. Grab both of your head back pieces (A3 or B3). Align them with right sides
facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning marking found on the
paper pattern for
the head back. Transfer the markings over to the wrong side of the fabrics
you've just stacked.
Sew from the top corner of the piece down to the beginning of the opening for
turning and
stop.
c. When complete, this should leave the head back pieces only attached at the
upper corner.
3
3
2
2
2
2 2
1 2
1 1
1 1
1
leave
neck open
a. Grab your head front so far as well as your head back pieces. The outer edge
of the
head front will join all around the head back. These areas have numbered
markings for easy
identification, points 1, 2, and 3. Pin the head front to the head back from
points 1 through 3.
For a kitty skull (B), be sure the ears and ear seams also line up.
b. Sew the head front to the head back all the way around points 1, 2, and 3.
Leave the bottom
open for the neck later.
For a kitty skull (B), be sure to pivot at the ears.
c. Turn the head right side out when complete.
align
new skull head to your
with
doll body as in the usual
neck
project instructions.
edge of
body
See the next section
if you wish to add
skeleton applique to the
doll body pieces. Then
complete your doll's body open up
as in the main doll neck edge
instructions.
instructions
a. Grab your finished skull head and open
up the neck edge of the doll. It should
make one continuous line, in a curved
shape. This will attach to the body.
b. Grab your doll's body and open up the
neck edge as well. Attach the new
skull head to the doll's body following
the instructions from the original doll
pattern.
skeleton applique
In order to transform your base
doll into a full-blown
skeleton, we're going to applique
many of the body
pieces with bones and other details.
You can also swap
the standard face of your doll with
a creepy new skull
face. These instructions will help
guide what fabrics you
need to cut, and how to applique
your new pieces.
EXAMPLES:
templates
included
(pg. 46-48):
• Skull applique
• Bone applique
also needed:
• Plush doll pattern:
Chibi Human,
Merpeople,
Centaur, chibi human
woodland anthro animals
pattern
for wolf or cat skeleton
Anthro for human skeleton
Dragon,
Anthro
Bird/Harpy,
Woodland
Anthro
Animal,
or Anthro
Hoofed
Animal/Faun
skills used:
• fusible web
applique anthro dragon
anthro bird anthro hoofed
pattern
pattern animal pattern
for dragon skeleton
for bird skeleton for deer skeleton
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to
“Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 17
sewing the plush
NOTIONS:
head side, nose
spikes, fore-
white head, head back,
claws, body • matching sewing thread
spikes, horns • basic sewing tools
(sewing machine, scissors,
belly, back, iron, ironing board,
fabric marker, seam ripper,)
outer arm, inner *see page 6-7 for more
info
black arm, leg, foot
bottom, wings
hold for applique:
head side, belly, back,
outer arm, leg, wings
bones - white
trace skull
& bone
templates
a. Grab your fusible web and your skeleton templates and trace the pieces you
need for your doll.
You can find pieces unique to that animal on the different pages. Just keep in
mind you need
eye sockets, possible accent eyes, a nose or nostrils, possible mouth and
teeth, ribcage, pelvis,
leg bones, arm bones, possible tail bones, and possible wing bones.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the wrong side of
your applique fabrics.
The face pieces should go onto black, and the bones and teeth should go onto
white.
Cut out the applique pieces using the traced lines from the fusible web.
pieces next
nostrils.
b. If yours has accent
eyes, add those now. For
animals with a mouth, like
white
the wolf or dragon, you'll
teeth go
want to add the whole
inside
black
mouth with teeth outlines.
outlines
Then add in the individual
teeth on top so they really
stand out.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 19
sewing the plush
→ Next, applique all the bones for the various body pieces. Here are some
important tips to
remember:
a. For the body: place the ribcage about ½" down from the center top of the
body piece so it
doesn't get cut off in the seam allowance. Place the pelvis about ½" below it,
or right above the
point of the center dart.
b. For the outer arms: place the bones right below the shoulder darts.
c. For the human legs: arrange the bones about 1/3 of the way in from one side
of the
leg. This is to ensure they show up on the front of the leg when the rest of
the doll is sewn.
leg
For the dragon legs: arrange the bones up from the claw placement lines to
ensure
they point forward on the finished doll.
→ Add any other bones for wings
wings, tails
tails, and the like as may pertain to your
doll. Just
make sure the applique is placed at least ¼" in from the edge so it doesn't
get caught in
your seam allowance.
robe
This robe has just what you need to pull off the Grim Reaper look. It's fully
lined so
you can use a fun or spooky fabric inside for a great pop of color. It has long
flowing
sleeves and also an option for a tattered flowing bottom.
Meanwhile the hood comes in a basic version for the human doll or a slotted
version
that accommodates horns, antlers, or tall animal ears.
difficulty:
skills used:
hook-and-loop tape
that makes things difficult, so be sure to sew
EXAMPLES:
extra spooky
cotton outer, slots for ears,
challenge!
minky lining horns, etc.
try gauze
optional open back for
flannel outer,
tattered bottom wings & tail
thin fleece lining
trim tattered
your robe to have tatters
shapes
along the bottom. On the
finished robe they look like
the first photo.
b. If you'd like to keep them,
cut out the template along
the long dashed line when
you're near the bottom. tattered
version:
If you'd like to remove
them, cut out the template
along the solid line all the
way around.
C C D1
G2 G2 C C
gr a i n
G1 G1 D3
E
E
40” wide
43” wide
lining
lining
⅓ yd.; 12”
long
g r a in
gr a in
D3
E
E
36” wide
39” wide
a. If you're using piece D3, the open back for tail & wings: grab both of your
back pieces
and align them so the right sides are facing and the center back edges match
up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the center back edge only.
c. Open up the pieces when complete. You can now treat this like it's one full
back piece.
a. Grab your robe front and back pieces (C & D) from the outer fabric. Align
the front pieces
with the back at the side seams -- these are the straight edges beneath the
armholes. Bring
right sides together and line up the raw edges.
b. Sew the robe front pieces to the back at the sides only.
c. If using a crisp fabric, press the seam allowances to one side.
a
b
version:
lining along the center
front and bottom edges.
d. Photo D shows what it
might look like if your
robe doesn't have tatters.
sew along
front edges
c
d
and bottom
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 24
sewing the robe
sew along
bottom edge
a. Grab your sleeve pieces (E). Take one from outer fabric and one from lining
fabric. Align
them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the sleeve pieces together along the bottom outer curved edge.
c. Turn the sleeve right side out and press it flat. If your fabric is
slippery, baste the lining and
the outer robe fabric together, since we’ll be treating the sleeve as one piece
for future steps.
Repeat this step with your remaining sleeve piece for two sleeves total.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 25
sewing the robe
→ Next is to attach the sleeve (E) to the armhole of the robe. The tight curve
with the
side seam in the middle is the robe armhole. This will attach to the inner
curve of the
sleeve.
a. For help with alignment, you may want to make small clips into the seam
allowance on the
armhole of the robe. This will help the fabric stretch and bend better.
b. Align the armhole on the sleeve to fit around the armhole on the robe so the
outer fabrics
are facing.
c. Stitch the armhole to the sleeve along this edge. If using a woven fabric,
finish the seam
allowance when complete.
to finish the seams: either sew a zigzag stitch/straight stitch along the edge
of the
seam allowance, use fray block on the edge, or trim the seam allowance with
pinking shears
(zigzagging is used in these photos).
a. Flip your robe over so the lining side is facing up and flip the sleeves (E)
so the outer fabric
is facing out.
b. Line up the straight edges of the sleeves so the outer fabrics are facing
each other.
c. Also line up the shoulder edges which are connected to the sleeves. This
should line up
everything from the end of the sleeve up to the neckline.
sleeve
complete.
and
through
b. Repeat with the other
shoulder
sleeve for two total.
Turn the sleeves right side
out when complete.
→ Set the robe aside for
a quick moment while
we construct the hood.
If you're making a basic hood (F) for a human or bird head, continue to
step 12. If you're making a slotted hood (G) for a doll with horns or
tall ears, skip ahead to step 14.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 27
sewing the robe
repeat with
lining pieces
a. Grab your basic hood pieces (F1 & F2). Take two from your outer fabric and
line them up
with right sides facing and raw edges aligning.
b. Sew them together along the top and center back edge. This is the longer
curved edge, but it's
also labeled on the paper pattern for easy identification.
c. Repeat this step with your lining pieces as well.
a. Take your basic hood lining piece (F2) and turn it right side out. Nestle
the lining into
the outer hood with right sides facing and all the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the hood pieces together along the front edge. Leave the neck edge open
for turning.
c. Clip the seam allowance at the tip of the outer hood to help turn the shape
cleanly. Turn the
hood right side out through the opening in the neck. Define the points at the
tip of the hood
with a chopstick or similar turning tool. Press the front edge lightly to help
hold the shape of
the hood in place.
→ Skip ahead to step 27 to attach the robe.
a. Grab your slotted hood front pieces (G1). Align the two outer fabric pieces
with right
sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. Grab your slotted hood back pieces (G2). Align the two outer fabric pieces
with right
sides facing and raw edges matching up.
c. Sew the pieces along the center top and back edges. For the front piece,
that's the straight
edge above the ear slots. For the back piece, that's the curved edge opposite
the ear slots.
These edges are also labeled on the paper pattern for easy identification.
pieces
b. Repeat step 14 with your
hood lining pieces turn pieces
right side out
(G1 & G3).
front to
from your outer fabric
back at
align
middle
and line up the middle middle
edges. This is the seam edges
that goes down the middle
of the ear slots. These
edges are also labeled on
a
b
the paper pattern for easy
identification.
b. Sew the hood front to the
back along the middle
leave ear
repeat
edge.
on other
slots open
side
c. Line up the middle edge
on the other side of the
hood and sew it as well.
d. When sewn your pieces
should start to make more
of a hood shape. They'll
just have a big opening in
the top for the ear slots.
c
d
open
up hood
pieces
a. Sew the hood lining to the outer hood around the inner curves of the ear
slots. Sew the ear
slots only and leave the straight edges between the curves open.
b. The second photo shows what this looks like from the top.
c. Clip the seam allowance at the curves to help increase flexibility when the
pieces are turned.
slots.
center
front
a. Separate the center sections from your hood front (G1) and back (G2/3). This
is the
middle area between the two ear slots.
b. Take your hood front center section and flip it so the wrong side of the
fabric is facing out.
c. Tuck the hood back center section inside the hood front so right sides are
facing. The lining
and outer fabrics should be matching up.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 32
sewing the robe
sew through
all layers
flip right
side out
a. Viewed head on, you'll see the hood back section (G2/3) is sandwiched inside
the hood
front fabric (G1). Line up the raw edges by adjusting the fabrics as best you
can.
b. Sew the hood front to the back along that short edge where the raw edges
line up. Use the
regular ¼" seam allowance.
c. Turn the hood right side out, and the center area should be joined securely
at the seam. The
one large ear slot hole should now have two separate ear slots.
edge
a. Take your hood so far and place it on its side, outer fabric facing out.
Separate the outer fabric from the lining fabric.
b. Turn under the front edge of the outer fabric and lining fabric by ¼". Press
the folds in place to
hold them for the next step.
c. Align the outer fabric and lining fabric by matching up the folds. Then you
can either edge
stitch the hood together along the fold, or ladder stitch it by hand. Skip
ahead to step 27.
ear slots
in center
turn
lining outer
hood on
hood
its side
separate
outer
fabric and
lining
a. Grab your hood so far and place it on its side with the outer fabric facing
out.
b. Separate the outer fabric from the lining fabric.
c. Then separate the entire hood outer fabric and lining so the lining is on
one side, the outer
fabric is on the other, and the ear slots are in the middle.
inches
a. Take the layer of lining and outer fabric on top and tuck it into the
center. This is meant to
give you access to the lining and outer fabric on the bottom. These fabrics
should have the
right side facing up.
b. Take the lining and outer fabric on each side and align them together with
right sides facing.
c. Start at the bottom corner where the front edge meets the neck. Pin about 3"
of the fabric
together and take it to your machine.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold.
Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell
this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 34
sewing the robe
turn
right
side out
a. Start sewing the hood lining to the outer fabric, starting at the corner.
Sew as far as you can go
until the fabric no longer lines up. This should be about 3" or so.
b. Leave your needle and presser foot down. Reach in between the fabrics you've
been sewing and
pull out more of the hood fabrics towards you.
The part you've already sewn will then shift into the back end. You're
essentially sewing an
inverted loop, so as you pull more from the front, the rest will shift into the
back.
For sewing, you'll need to continually stop and grab more fabric from inside
and pull it out
before you can continue.
If you feel more comfortable, you could also take the hood out of the machine
to pull out more
fabric bit by bit. Continue sewing in this manner until you reach the other
corner of the hood
front.
c. Then you can finally turn the hood right side out. This should complete the
front edge of the
hood despite the ear slots getting in the way. The neck edge will still be
open.
edge of robe
fabric from the lining.
b. Retrieve your robe from
before and spread it out
so the neck edge makes a
continuous line. We’ll be
attaching this to the hood
next.
a. Take the neck edge of your robe and align it over the outer fabric of the
hood only. Match up
the center back marking with the center hood seam. The neckline corners should
match up as
well.
b. Sew the robe to the outer hood fabric only along this neck edge.
c. The third photo shows what it might look like with the robe side facing up.
robe into
Next, line up the neck
hood
edge of the robe and hood
once again. This time
match up the hood lining
with the robe lining. This
should completely encase
the robe.
turn
and your robe should look
right
something as shown.
side out ladder
stitch closed
d. Turn under the seam
allowance in the opening
left and ladder stitch it to
the robe to close it up.
c
d
of closure to
a tail (D3): Dress
inner tab
the robe on your doll to
overlap
see where it overlaps
wing
tabs in
underneath the wings.
back
Mark where the robe
overlaps and use it as
a guide to place your
sew other
side to outer
closure. You can also
tab
follow the placement
guides on the paper
pattern as a place to start. b. Depending on your closure
(either hook-and-loop tape or
sew-in snap) attach one half on
the outside of the robe on
one of the wing tabs. Then
attach the other half on the
inside of the robe on the other
wing tab.
corner
robe overlaps and use it
as a guide to place your
closure. You can also
follow the placement
guides on the paper
sew other
pattern as a place to start.
side to outer
corner
scythe
Your doll just wouldn't read as a Grim Reaper without the iconic scythe! To make
things crafter friendly, this little prop is made from a disposable chopstick.
Which should
hopefully be easy to find from your last takeout order! Attached is a lightly
stuffed blade
to help keep its shape. It also features a length of elastic along the handle to
help wrap
onto your doll's hand for easy carrying.
difficulty: EXAMPLE:
minky handle
& blade
This project has a decent bit of
hand sewing both in closing up the
handle and attaching the blade, but
the techniques themselves are very
basic.
materials & notions:
• ⅛ yd. (or 10" x 3") of fabric for
handle elastic for
• ¼ yd. (or 10" x 6") of fabric for securing onto
blade doll's hand
• One disposable wooden
chopstick, about 8" long
• 2" of narrow elastic (about ¼"
stuffed blade
wide)
for structure
• Poly-fil stuffing
skills used:
• sewing curved pieces
• ladder stitch
• using elastic
suggested fabrics:
chopstick
inside handle
• This design works best in the
for structure
same soft plush fabrics used
for the doll, such as fleece or
minky. It helps provide some
cushion around the chopstick
handle.
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2021 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit
to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this
pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
grim reaper expansion pack 39
sewing the scythe
handle st r etch
blade
fabric H1
⅛ yd.;
4.5” long
H2 H2
¼ yd.; 9” long
n a p/ pile
cutting
layout:
n a p/ pile
10” wide
10” wide
side out
a. Take your handle piece (H1) and fold it in half lengthwise with right sides
facing so it makes
an even skinnier piece. Match up the raw edges of the fabric.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings found on the
paper pattern
for the handle. The opening is quite long to allow plenty of room to insert the
chopstick. Sew
the handle together around the raw edges, leaving the long opening for turning
in the center.
Curve around the ends of the piece and sew into the fold of the fabric.
c. Turn the handle right side out through the opening in the center.
a. Grab your chopstick and insert it into the handle. Insert it through the
opening at one end,
pushing the chopstick to one side.
b. Next, stretch the fabric so it covers the other end of the chopstick.
c. Tuck in the seam allowance from the opening for turning. Ladder stitch the
handle closed to
completely conceal the chopstick inside.
trim seam
leave open
allowance at
for turning
corners
a. Grab your blade pieces (H2). Align them with right sides facing and raw
edges matching up.
b. If you haven't already, locate the opening for turning markings on the paper
pattern for the
blade. Transfer them over to the wrong side of the fabrics you've just stacked.
Sew the blade pieces together all around the shape, but leave an opening for
turning along
the middle of the straight side.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tip of the blade to reduce bulk when
it's turned later.
ladder
to the handle all the way
stitch to
around the straight edge. blade tip
handle
This should also close up points down
the opening in the blade
piece as well.
7. DRESS IT ON
wrap elastic
a. To dress it on
your doll, stretch open the elastic and
around hand wrap it around the
hand of your doll! Now they're
ready for a trip to
the underworld!
NAP
3
A3
HUMAN SKULL
STRETCH
¼” seam allowance
Cut 2 of bone fabric
2
dart
HU
MAN
SKULL
Cut A1
NA
2 ¼” 1 of b
s e am one fa
all o bri
w anc c
e
ap
STR
pl pliqu
a c
ET
e mene
CH
t
2
proportions
at the proper
be sure you’ve printed
measure this square to st top
i t c
2” h
ing
TEST SQUARE
. 1/14
. 2/14
NA P
¼” seam allowance
A2
STRETCH
B5
¼” seam allowance ce n
HUMAN SKULL
te
Cut 1 of bone fabric
r
n e ck
1 1
NAP
¼” seam allowance
2
2
Cut 2 of bone fabric NAP
B4
3
( B 5) p
2
lacement
NA
applique
K
Cu seam
ITT
op
¼”
e
t2
YS
ni
for skull
n
ST
B3
gf
of allo
KU
or
RE
LL
bo wa
tu
heads:
r
ne
ni
TC
1
ng
fab ce
H
ric
n
applique
Trace/cut 2
from accent
color
applique
Trace/cut 1 from
black
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
from black
accent color
. 3/14
3 3
dart
2
NAP
Cut 1 of bone
allowance
¼” seam
fabric
t
en
KITTY SKULL
em
c
4)
pl
a
(B
4)
B1
(B
pla N AP
ce
me
1
nt
STRETCH
ck
Cut 1 of bone fabric
ne
er
2 ¼” seam allowance
2
ce nt
applique
STRETCH
placement
KITTY SKULL
B2
top stitching
2
. 4/14
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
applique from accent color
Trace/cut 2 from applique
accent color Trace/cut 2
from accent
color
applique
Trace/cut 2 each
from white
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
from white
dragon & wolf applique
. 5/14
applique
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
from white
applique
Trace/cut 1
from black
applique
Trace/cut 1 each from
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
black
from white
applique
applique
. 6/14
applique
Trace/cut 1 each
applique from white
Trace/cut 2
each from
white
. 7/14
cu
ck
th
r ba
cente
ere
r tat
fo
t er e d
e d g e
ar m
le
ho
h ole
arm
GRAIN
gr im
r epla p e r
ush doll ck
pa
expansion
ROBE
A1 A2
D1
ain fabric
Cut 1 of m ng fabric
ni
Cut 1 of li lowance
l
¼” seam a
cut her
e for tattered edge
. 8/14
snap
placement
m h ole
GRAIN
GRAIN
ar
am
Cut 2
of lining fabric
Cut 2
of main fabric
¼”
seam allowance
e se
sid
gr im
ROBE
r eaper
E
plush doll
expansion pack
ROBE
C
Cut 2 of main fabric
Cut 2 of lining fabric
¼” seam allowance
A1 A2
14
.
9/14
ack
center b
gr im
r eaper
m h ole
ar mh
plush doll e
ar
ol
expansion pack
ROBE Cut 1 of
main fabric
Cut 1 of
D2 lining fabric
¼” seam
allowance
G R AI N
ge
ed
e d
ter
tat
for
here
cut
. 10/14
center back
w
in
g o p e ning
h ole
arm
ROBE
snap
placemen
t
elastic placement
Cut 2 of
main fabric
H2
¼” seam allowance
meta Cut 2 of
lining fabric l-
¼” se colored f
¼” seam am a a
llowa bric
allowance
nce
NAP
STRETCH
H1
dg
e
e
tered
tat
e for
her
cut
. 11/14
to
p
ed
ge
gr im
r eaper
plush doll
G R AI N
expansion pack
ROBE
B1 B2
F2
front edge
front edge
ge
k ed
c
ne
14 . 12/14
top
edg
e
GRAIN
gr im
r eaper
plush sewing pattern
ROBE
B1 B2
F1
Cut 2 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
e
dge
ck
ba
e
edg
ck
ne
top edge
. 13/14
GRAIN
slot
G
R AI N
ear
center b
ear slot
gr im
ack edge
front edge
r eaper
plush doll
expansion pack gr im
r eaper
ROBE
middle edge
to
pe
dg
e
G RA I N
gr im
ear slot
r eaper
plush doll
expansion pack
ROBE
G2
Cut 2 of main fabric
¼” seam allowance
middle edge
dge
ke
bac
ge
neck ed