Q-1 : Define Plaster.

(21)
Plastering is an art of covering rough walls and uneven surfaces in the
construction of houses and other structures with a plastic
composition, called plaster. This process is called plastering.
Plastering, in general, is not required for good brickwork, made of well
burnt bricks or neat stone masonry constructed of durable stones and
good mortar.
Q-2 : Write down the Objects of Plastering. (14,17,18,19)
The principal objects of plastering are:
1- To provide a true, even, smooth and finished surface to the work and
improve the appearance.
2- To protect the surface from atmospheric influences.
3- To cover defective workmanship.
4- To provide a covering for the unsound and porous materials.

Q-3 : Write down the Names of the tools used in plastering .

(14)
1- Gauging trowel
2- Float
3- Floating rule
4- Plumb-bob
5- Brush
1- It is an ordinary trowel used by masons in general work.
2- At the time of masonry work and plastering work it is used for
taking mortar from the mortar pan which is generally kept mixed near
the working mason.
3- Dashing of mortar against the prepared walls and then spreading
and pressing is done with the help of trowels.
1- It is used to spread the mortar evenly over the surface.
2- It may be made of timber or tempered steel. Steel float is also known
as lay trowel whereas that of timber skimming floats.
3- Floats are also made in which nail remain projecting about 3 mm from
the surface; such a float is known as devil float. This float is used to
make zigzag lines on the plastered surface so as to form a key for the
coats to be subsequently applied.
1- It is used to check the level of the plastered surface between
successive screeds.
2- It is made of timber and its length varies from 1 m to 2 m. Its one face
in made perfectly plain and smooth.

Plumb-bob
This tool is very much used in forming vertical screeds on the surface
to be plastered.
Q-4 : Write down the Characteristics of good plaster.(15,16)

1. It should adhere finely to the surface on which it is applied.

2. It should not shrink or contract in volume on drying and setting,

otherwise it cracks and gives an unsightly appearance.

3. In case of lime plaster, it should not contain unslaked particles of

lime which absorb moisture from the atmosphere and spoils the

plastered surface.
Q-5 : Write the different types of plaster. (15)
1. Lime Plaster: Lime plaster consists of lime and sand (usually 1 part
lime, 2 to 3 parts sand) mixed with water to form a paste of required
consistency.
2. Surki Plaster: Surki plaster consists of lime and surki (1 part lime:
1.5 to 2 parts surki): mixed with water to form a paste of required
consistency and is mainly used in plinths and walls.

3. Lime-Surki Plaster: To prevent shrinkage, sand is added to surki plaster

in the proportion of 1 part lime: 1-part surki and 1 part sand. It is laid in
thickness 3/8 to 1/ 2 inch in one coat on soaked surface.
4. Neeru or lime Putty: This is prepared from the best variety of quick lime.
5. Moghal Plaster: This is composed of stone lime, sand and surki in
the proportion 1:2:3 or 1:3:4.
6. Mud Plaster: This is composed of selected mud and cow dung or saw
dust in equal proportion and sometimes one pound of straw is added
to every two eft of plaster.
7. Cement Plaster: This is composed of Portland cement and standard
sand in the proportion 1:2, unless otherwise specified.
8. Stucco Plaster: The term ’stucco' is generally applied to an
ornamental coat of plaster on walls. This made of either cleans white
shell lime and powdered marble (1: 2) or cement plaster (1:21 /2) or (1: 3).
9. Gypsum Plaster: First natural gypsum is crushed and ground to fine
powder and heated to a high temperature of 125 to 140°F. The product
thus obtained is termed as Plaster of Paris. Gypsum plaster is prepared
by mixing Plaster of Paris and sand (1:3 or 1:4) with sufficient
quantity of water to produce required consistency. To avoid quick
setting, retarder in the form of coir, saw dust, Jute cutting etc is used
with gypsum plaster.
10. Mosaic Plaster or Terrazzo Plaster: This consist of marble chips or
stone chips 2- inch down size and white or colored cement in the ratio
2:1 unless otherwise specified. Sometimes a coloring ingredient is used
with white cement in place of colored cement.
Q-6 : Write the steps of plastering. (21)
(i) Preparing the Wall (Fig-01)
1- Remove any contamination such as mould, oil, grease or paint from the
wall.
2- Brush down the surface of the wall to remove any loose particles and
dust.
(ii) Cutting Wickes Plaster Flatness Guides (FIG-02)
1- Wickes Plaster Flatness Guides should be cut to the height of the wall
using metal cutters or a hacksaw.
2- Care should be taken as the cut ends are sharp - protective gloves are
highly advisable.
(iii) Mixing (FIG-03)
1- Mix the plaster using a strong stick (a piece of 21 x 44mm planed
timber is ideal) to a good workable consistency.
(iv) Fixing Wickes Plaster Flatness Guides
1- Firmly bed the first flatness guide into the plaster and make plumb to
the desired finished plaster thickness using a spirit level. (FIG. 04 & 05)
2- To ensure that the finished wall is flat, make sure that the guides are
uniformly positioned. (FIG- 06)
(v) External Corners
1- These are fixed in a similar fashion to the flatness beads apart form
the fact that only dabs of plaster are used and they require holding in
place with galvanised plasterboard nails. (FIG-07 & 08)
2- Carefully use a trowel to clean off excess plaster without disturbing
the position of the bead. Leave the angle beads to set. (FIG 09 & 10)
(vi) Applying Wickes One Coat Plaster
1- Applying plaster correctly involves using the correct 'wrist action' and
ensuring that the angle of the trowel blade against the working surface
remains the same. If the blade is to flat against the work surface then too
much plaster is applied and there is a risk of the trowel 'sticking' to the
plaster. Too steep an angle will apply too little plaster. The correct
angle is around 45°. (FIG-11 & 12)
2- The plaster is then immediately 'ruled off' to form a level surface using
a straight edge or derby. (FIG. 6) Rule the plaster vertically to start with
following the flatness guides, starting at the bottom and working up,
and then rule again with a side to side motion. (FIG -13)
3- When sponging is complete, carefully trowel the surface. A slight
wetting down of the plaster surface may be necessary at this stage to
avoid friction and reduce dragging. (FIG – 14 & 15)
Q-7 : Write the steps of repairing plaster. (22)
1- Plaster that has failed through age and is no longer bonded to the walls
needs to be removed to leave a sound surface. For small areas the
sound plaster at the sides will act as flatness guides when 'ruling off'.
See (FIG. 16 & 17)
2- The plaster can then be applied as described previously. See FIG. 18
3- If the plaster has been damaged through movement the old plaster
still needs to be removed and the Wickes Patch & Repair Mesh
should be used. See (FIG. 19 & 20)
4- To fix the mesh apply a layer of Wickes One Coat Plaster to half of
the depth of plaster required. Cut the mesh to size and push this in
place with a trowel so the plaster comes through the mesh. Allow this
plaster to set and then plaster the remaining area. See (FIG. 21, 22 &
23.)
Q-8 : Define the following terms: (i) Sand Rubbing (15,20,22) (ii)
Pointing (15,16,17) (iii) Lime Punning (iv) White Wash(16,17,21,22)
(v) Color Wash(16,17,21) (vi) Distemper(16,17,21) (vii) Plaster of
Paris (15,20,22) (vii Mosiac Plaster (15,20,22)
(i)
(ii)
(iii & iv)
(v & vi)
 (vii)
First natural gypsum is crushed and ground to fine powder and heated to
a high temperature of 125 to 140°F. The product thus obtained is
termed as Plaster of Paris. Gypsum plaster is prepared by mixing
Plaster of Paris and sand (1:3 or 1:4) with sufficient quantity of water
to produce required consistency. To avoid quick setting, retarder in the
form of coir, saw dust, Jute cutting etc is used with gypsum plaster.

(viii)
Q-9 : Distinguish between mortar and plaster. (15)