Zuma
Zuma
ZUMA
Rigging Manual
1 Unpacking and preparation
2 Assembly
3 Launching
a. Hull
Note: All lines are as long as necessary for maximum purchase. Vanguard Sailboats
encourages you to customize line lengths for your sailing pleasure, but be sure to cut and
burn ends to prevent fraying.
Useful
knots
to know FIGURE 8 OR SQUARE KNOT CLEAT BOWLINE CLOVE HITCH
STOPPER KNOT
The vang system consists of two blocks and a line. Th e block After checking that there are no sharp objects in the area, lay
with a shackle attaches to the eyestrap on the underside of out the sail near the boat. Insert the battens into the batten
the boom. The block with a v-cleat and shackle attaches to pockets; the short one goes in the top pocket, and the other
the eyestrap on the mast. Lay out the block with shackle to two are the same length. Unzip the sleeve in the forward edge
the right of the block with a v-cleat, leaving about two feet (luff ) of the sail and stack the sail into the boat, with the zip-
between the two. Tie one end of the vang line to the becket per piled at the base of the mast. Untie the halyard ends from
on the block with shackle, run it through the nearest sheave the cleat and attach the end that comes off the aft side of the
of the block with v-cleat, back through the sheave in the mast to the webbing strap on the head of the sail. Wrap the
block with a shackle, through the second sheave of the block sail sleeve around the mast (with the free end of the halyard
with v-cleat and out through the cleat. Make sure the line inside) above the gooseneck and engage about three inches of
runs without crosses between the two blocks. zipper to hold it in place. Pull on the halyard with your left
hand while zipping the sleeve closed with your right, until
Traveler Mainsail
Vang the sail is all the way up. Cleat off the halyard securely.
Locate the traveler line and double traveler block and tie the Assembled and Mounted
Boom
traveler line to the padeye on one side of the stern. Th read
the other end of the line through the small double block, Insert the gooseneck pin into the hole in the forward end of
and tie it off to the padeye on the opposite side of the stern. the boom and walk aft, exerting forward pressure to keep it in
The traveler should be rigged loosely to avoid damaging the place until you attach the outhaul.
mast.
Vang: Attach the block with the cleat to the metal fitting on
Mainsheet the mast just above the deck. Attach the shackle to the metal
strap on the underside of the boom, and snug the line.
Attach the mainsheet block to the eyestrap at the forward
end of the hiking strap. Lay the boom on the deck so that Outhaul: Tie the bitter end of the outhaul to the plastic fairlead
the block closest to the end of the boom is even with the on the outboard end of the boom. Th read the outhaul through
stern and the other end points toward the bow. Th read the the clew grommet in the sail, through the fairlead, and lead
mainsheet through the ratchet block AGAINST the ratchet, it forward to the cleat on the boom. Tighten it enough so that
through the forward block on the boom, aft along the boom, it will keep the boom on the gooseneck pin.
and through the aft block. Lead it through the top of the
Clew Tiedown: Wrap the clew tiedown line twice around
double traveler block previously attached to the traveler Clew and Outhaul
the boom and the clew grommet (inside the outhaul), and
line from aft to forward, then take it up to the becket on the Assembled and Mounted
Mainsheet System secure it to itself. It should hold the clew tight against the
block on the boom and tie it off with a fi gure 8 knot.
Assembled and Mounted boom but still allow it to slide forward and aft as you
Rudder assembly adjust the outhaul.
Attach the rudder to the tiller using the supplied bolt and Cunningham
washers. The washers should sit between the tiller and the
Tie a figure 8 knot in one end of the cunningham and thread
rudder, one on each side. For extra security, tape the cover plate of
the other end forward through the clam cleat and fairlead just
the tiller extension to the tiller to prevent unexpected extension removal.
aft of the mast. Th read the end up through the grommet in the
Mast assembly and stepping sail and secure it to the gooseneck.
Insert the collared end of the mast top section into the bot-
tom section until the collar is tight against the aluminum. KEEP THE CUNNINGHAM CLEATED AND TIGHT AT ALL
Make sure the mast step hole and mast butt are perfectly TIMES, SO THE MAST WILL STAY IN THE BOAT IN THE
clean; any sand, dirt etc. in the mast step will grind into EVENT OF A CAPSIZE.
the gelcoat and eventually damage the boat. Locate the
halyard and feed one end through one of the holes in the cap Cunningham
on the top of the mast. Bring both ends down the mast and
tie them off to the cleat. Place the mast butt against a solid
object, lift the top end, and walk toward the butt, raising
it hand over hand until the mast stands vertical. Rotate
the mast until the gooseneck (the metal post about two feet
above the butt) points toward the stern. Keep your hands a
good distance apart while lifting the mast over the hole. Let
the mast slide into the step, but do not drop it as you may Mast Assembly
damage the step.
Lock the rudder up and attach it to the boat by passing the tiller
under the traveler and lining up the rudder pin with the pin-
tles. The bottom groove should fit into the bottom pintle, and
when you push down on the spring-loaded pin, the top groove
will slide into the top pintle. Release the spring and lock the
rudder in place, making sure the rudder is securely connected to
the boat at both top and bottom.
Unrigging
Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage. license plate number state register in
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. This is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the hull
should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended period registration number state / county registered in
can also damage the hull. The under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and should be
removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive print through
of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
• Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. This can cause blistering, print through
and warpage.
insurance information
• All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat. LaserPerformance
can recommend a suitable product.
On Water
• When wearing a trapeze harness, take particular care when climbing on to the centerboard and back into the maintenance
boat after a capsize. The trapeze harness hook could easily damage the hull or deck.
On Water Towing
• Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recommends
a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.
LaserPerformance EUROPE
Station Works, Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
t +44 (0) 1327 841600
f +44 (0) 1327 841601
LaserPerformance ASIA
Room 3415
China Merchants Tower
Shun Tak Centre
No. 168-200 Connaught Road Central
Hong Kong
t +852 2902 2818
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LaserPerformance AUSTRALIA
t +61 (0) 3 9016 4151