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A swing, so durable that it has become a virtual landmark, was
made from a long, straight hickory sapling suspended from the limb
of a tree. The sapling was split part of its length, as shown in the
illustration, and a bolt put through it to prevent the upper portion from
cracking. The lower end was smoothed off, so as not to injure the
hands, and mortised through a slab of wood, as shown in the
detailed sketch. A safe hook from which to suspend the swing is
suggested. It is made from a bolt fixed through the limb and curled at
the hook end so that the swing may be taken down in bad weather.
—Hubert Kann, Pittsburgh, Pa.
Match Safe of Miniature Cannon Shell
The match safe shown in the sketch was made by a worker in a
munitions plant. The container was shaped like a small cannon shell
and was set into a bracket supported on a prettily grained board,
stained and varnished, and supported by a chain.—J. H. Moore,
Hamilton, Can.
Washing Bromide Enlargements
The Cork Clips Hold the Bromide Print in the Water in a Vertical Position
The difficulty of washing bromide enlargements of the larger sizes
has always made the amateur hesitate to undertake much of this
kind of work. The developing and fixing can be done with
comparative ease, because of the facility with which the print can be
kept moving in a tray that is smaller in size than the print itself, but
washing is such a long process that one’s patience is exhausted
before the hypo is completely eliminated. Continuous handling of a
print for 30 minutes is tedious work. This objection can be overcome
in the simplest and most efficacious manner, as follows:
Procure some large corks of the best quality and in each cut a
groove completely around it, near one end, to serve as a retainer for
a rubber band; then cut the cork lengthwise through the center, and
cut a wedge-shaped piece from the center toward the end opposite
the one where the groove was cut for the rubber band. After placing
a band in the groove of the proper size the combination will work
similarly to an old-fashioned spring clothespin.
If two of these are snapped on the edge of a bromide print, this
can be dropped into a bathtub or laundry tub for washing. The corks
will cause the print to float vertically in the running water. By this
means a number of prints can be washed at a time without any
danger of their sticking together or becoming wrinkled or cracked in
the bath.—Contributed by T. B. Lambert, Chicago.
Bench Support for a Miter Box
To make the most effective use of a miter box, it must be fastened
solidly to a base, but if fastened to the workbench top it is in the way
when not in use, and it is a nuisance to fasten and unfasten the box
every time it is used. To avoid the changing, I mounted the miter box
on two pieces of 1 by 3-in. stock, about 2 ft. long. These pieces were
placed on the bench top, at right angles to the front edge and with
their centers as far apart as the two pairs of legs on the box. The box
was placed on the front end of the pieces, with the back parallel to
the front of the bench, at right angles to the pieces, and was
fastened to them with screws. The other end of each piece was
fastened to the bench top with a hinge.
This fastened the miter box firmly to the bench top, but in such a
way that I could tip it up and back against the wall, or other support,
where it was out of the way but ready for use immediately. To stiffen
the frame, I placed a cross brace between the two pieces, making it
in the form of the letter H.—Contributed by L. C. Burke, Madison,
Wisconsin.
A Blowpipe for Gas
Blowpipe Connection to the Ordinary Illuminating-Gas Main for Hard and
Soft Soldering
Every experimenter who has a gas connection within convenient
distance of the workbench should provide a 4 or 5-ft. length of ¹⁄₄-in.
rubber tubing, terminating in a brass tube through which air may be
blown in order that a clear blue flame may be available for either
hard or soft soldering. The brass tube should be 4 or 5 in. long and
fitted at one end with a removable nozzle having a ¹⁄₁₆-in. hole in it. A
hole is then drilled in the side and a piece of smaller brass tubing,
bent as shown in the sketch, is soldered in place for the air supply. A
piece of soft-rubber tubing about 1 ft. long is then provided and one
end slipped over the projecting end of the air pipe and the other fitted
to a hard-rubber, or amber, mouthpiece. By regulating the gas supply
and blowing to the proper degree, a pencil of blue flame may be
produced, anywhere from 1 to 4 in. long. For heating large surfaces,
the nozzle tip should be removed.
This method of soldering not only makes a better connection than
the usual copper, but is instantly available and does not disarrange
the several pieces where, as is often the case, it is not practicable to
pin or hold them in place.
Scraper for Dishes
A Dish Scraper Made of a Piece of Rubber Inserted in a Wood Handle
Housekeepers will find the scraper shown to be silent and more
rapid than a knife for cleaning dishes. It consists of a handle cut from
a piece of straight-grained wood, with a kerf sawed in the wide end
to a depth of ³⁄₄ in., into which a piece of sheet rubber is inserted.
The rubber may be cut from an old bicycle-tire casing and is
fastened with two or three brads driven through the handle. The
ends of the brads are bent over or riveted. The edge of the rubber
should be made straight.—Contributed by H. S. Craig, Rushford,
Minn.
Protecting Lights in a Gymnasium
A public-school auditorium was used for playing basket ball, and
the lights were protected as shown. Wire waste-baskets were
fastened to pieces of board, which in turn were nailed to the ceiling
around each lamp. As it was desired to provide a way to ventilate the
room, an opening was cut in each board around the lamp base,
providing fan-shaped cut-outs covered with galvanized metal of the
same design, to make a way to open and shut the ventilator. The air
passed up into an attic.
Wire Wastebasket Fastened around a Light to Protect It for Basket-Ball
Games
The goals, which were old blackboards, were fastened between
the posts that supported the ceiling. Two iron rods, one above the
other, were clamped with bolts to the posts, and the boards were
bolted to the rods.—Contributed by Frank C. Svacha, McKees
Rocks, Pa.
Shortening a Pasteboard Box
Shortening a Box by Bending Up the Bottom after Removing the End and
Cutting Down the Sides
If a pasteboard box happens to be too long for a special purpose it
can be shortened as shown. The sides are cut down to the bottom
and the end removed. The bottom is then bent up on a line between
the places where the sides were cut down, to form a new end for the
box. The joining parts are then held with a thread or wire fasteners.
Repairing Shade-Roller Springs
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fix the Loosened Spring into Place and the Roller Is in Working Order
Springs of window-shade rollers, which usually break at the tin cap
by which they are fastened inside the rod, can be quickly repaired in
the following manner:
Remove the ferrule and dogs from the end of the roller and pull out
the stick to which the spring is attached. Measure the length of the
stick A, Fig. 1, on the roller, and at C cut a small square hole through
to the hollow center. Remove the metal cap thus exposed. Fix the
cap on the end of the stick at B and fasten the spring around one
point of the metal cap, Fig. 2. Insert the stick into the roller and tap it
gently, driving the cap points in; then replace the ferrule and dogs,
and the roller is in condition for use.
Drying Photo Films Rapidly
The Current of the Fan Dries the Films Rapidly
Waiting for photographic films to dry is often tedious, particularly
when the photographer is in haste to see the results of his efforts at
picture taking. The method of drying the films shown in the sketch
will aid materially in the process. The films are held by small spring
clips attached to the wire frame surrounding the fan, and when the
current is turned on, the films are blown away from the fan and held
suspended in a diagonal position.—Contributed by W. J. Clausius,
Chicago, Ill.
Applying and Drying Bronze Powders
Surfaces may be coated readily with bronze powder by applying a
thin coat of shellac and quickly dusting the powder over it. Speed is
important in dusting on the powder, as if the shellac hardens it will
not hold the bronze. Surfaces which have been bronzed in this way
may be polished if additional coats of shellac or varnish are applied
over them.
Forceps for Weeding Garden
Difficulty in removing small weeds around plants in the garden
may be overcome by the use of a forceps made of a piece of wire,
as shown in the illustration. The wire is formed into two loops by
which the weeds are grasped, and the portion held in the hand is
bent to form a circular spring. Its tension may be regulated so that
the hand will not be tired in using the device.—Contributed by Irving
McEwen, New Westminster, B. C., Canada.
Shielding Pictures from Damp Walls
Injury to pictures from dampness of walls may be prevented by
fixing small disks of cork to the lower edge of the frame so as to form
a contact with the wall only at the cork. This permits a current of air
to pass between the wall and frame.
New Method of Developing Roll Films
By T. B. LAMBERT
Many devices have been made for developing and fixing roll films.
There is the simple wholesale method of the professional who
hangs a weight on one end of the film and lets it down in a deep tank
of developing fluid where it hangs submerged from an upper support
until the development is complete. Then the support, the film, and
attached weight are removed, dipped into a similar tank of running
water, then to another tank of fixing solution, and subsequently
washed and dried.
This is the only practical plan where there are many such films to
be handled simultaneously, but the amateur who has only one or two
rolls a week cannot afford the tanks, the space, nor the expense
incident to such a method. The film is usually drawn back and forth
through a developing solution placed in a tray, and after the
development has proceeded far enough, the same process used in
washing, then the hypo solution, and finally through the last washing
for about 20 minutes, all making a tedious process.
Some amateurs and a few professionals who but occasionally
develop roll film use a mechanical device that rolls the film into a
light-proof package which is inserted in a metal tank for development
and subsequent fixation. This is a standard process, the apparatus
being on sale at all supply houses, but it has its drawbacks.
An Ordinary Drinking Glass Used for Developing Roll Films
The following method is not only simple but perfect in its operation
and requires no special apparatus, only a tumbler or lemonade
glass, and an ordinary lead pencil for its operation. A glass rod is
preferable to the lead pencil, and it is also convenient to have a deep
tin cup, or similar device, to cover up the lemonade glass and make
it light-proof, should it be desirable to turn on the white light in the
dark room.
Pour enough developing solution into the glass tumbler to cover
completely the roll of film when it is standing on end. In the dark
room open the film roll, remove the backing paper and the paper
ends on the film, run it through clear water until it is thoroughly and
uniformly wetted from end to end, and drop it endwise into the
tumbler of developer. Immediately insert the pencil or glass rod into
the center of the roll, and with a rather quick circular motion, move
the rod around so that it will quickly pass between the several
convolutions of the film and thus distribute the developer all over its
surface. Repeat this operation at once, then again in a few seconds,
then in 15 or 20 seconds, then in 30 seconds, then in 1 minute, and
so on, with greater intervals of time. If a 20-minute developer is
used, it will only be necessary, at the latter part of the development,
to separate the layers every 2 or 3 minutes.
When the development is complete, pour off the solution and rinse
in the same glass by letting water run through it while passing the
pencil or glass rod between the layers several times. The water may
then be drained off, and the glass filled with the fixing solution. While
the film is fixing, the glass rod should be passed between the layers
several times to renew the solution in contact with the film.
It will be seen that at no time after the first washing is it necessary
to handle the film, so that damage to the film and staining the fingers
are entirely eliminated. Further than that, no apparatus is tied up in
the operation, and if a light-proof cup is at hand, the developing
tumbler may be covered between the operations of separating the
layers of film, and the white light of the dark room can be turned on
for further operations.
Swinging Bags on the Arms of a Scarecrow
Scarecrow with Swinging Paper Bags on the Arms in the Place of Hands
The ordinary ragman used as a scarecrow can be made more
effective by adding to it something to make it move, or some part
that flutters in the wind. This can be accomplished in one way by
blowing up paper bags to expand them to their full extent, tying the
openings as if they were filled with some commodity for the
household, and fastening them to the arms of the dummy as shown.
These will swing and flutter about in a way that will materially aid in
scaring away the birds that damage the crops.
