11-1

Chapter 11 Body
Contents

Section Section
Body - maintenance ................................................................. 2 Hood latch and cable - removal and installation ........................... 10
Body repair - major damage ..................................................... 6 Instrument cluster bezel - removal and installation ....................... 23
Body repair - minor damage ..................................................... 5 Instrument panel - removal and installation .................................. 25
Bumpers - removal and installation ........................................... 13 Instrument panel trim bezels - removal and installation................. 24
Center console - removal and installation ................................... 19 Liftgate - removal, installation and adjustment.............................. 21
Cowl grille - removal and installation.......................................... 28 Liftgate trim panel - removal and installation................................. 20
Door - removal, installation and adjustment................................ 15 Radiator grille - removal and installation....................................... 11
Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and installation .. 16 Rear view mirrors - removal and installation................................. 27
Door trim panel - removal and installation................................... 14 Seats - removal and installation................................................... 29
Door window glass - removal and installation ............................. 17 Steering column covers - removal and installation........................ 26
Door window regulator - removal and installation........................ 18 Support strut - replacement ........................................................ 22
Front fender - removal and installation....................................... 12 Upholstery and carpets - maintenance ........................................ 4
General information .................................................................. 1 Vinyl trim - maintenance.............................................................. 3
Hinges and locks - maintenance................................................ 7 Windshield and fixed glass - replacement .................................... 8
Hood - removal, installation and adjustment .............................. 9

2 Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it's a good idea to have the
1 General information underside of the body steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be
removed and the area can then be inspected carefully for rust,
These models feature a "unibody" layout, using a floor pan with damaged brake lines, frayed electrical wires, damaged cables and
front and rear frame side rails which support the body components, other problems. The front suspension components should be greased
front and rear suspension systems and other mechanical components. after completion of this job.
Certain components are particularly vulnerable to accident damage 3 At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment
and can be unbolted and repaired or replaced. Among these parts are with a steam cleaner or water-soluble degreaser.
the body moldings, rear bumpers, the hood and liftgate and all glass. 4 The wheel wells should be given close attention, since under-
Only general body maintenance practices and body panel repair coating can peel away and stones and dirt thrown up by the tires can
procedures within the scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in this cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing rust to set in. If rust is found,
chapter. clean down to the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.
5 The body should be washed about once a week. Wet the vehicle
thoroughly to soften the dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and
2 Body - maintenance plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt is not washed off very
carefully, it can wear down the paint.
1 The condition of your vehicle's body is very important, because the 6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the road should be
resale value depends a great deal on it. It's much more difficult to repair removed with a cloth soaked in solvent.
a neglected or damaged body than it is to repair mechanical compo- 7 Once every six months, wax the body and chrome trim. If a
nents. The hidden areas of the body, such as the wheel wells, the frame chrome cleaner is used to remove rust from any of the vehicle's plated
and the engine compartment, araequally important, although they don't parts, remember that the cleaner also removes part of the chrome, so
require as frequent attention as the rest of the body. use it sparingly.
 These photos illustrate a method of repairing simple dents. They are intended to supplement Body repair - minor
damage in this Chapter and should not be used as the sole instructions for body repair on these vehicles.

1 If you can't access the backside of the body panel to hammer

2 ... then screw the slide-hammer into the hole and operate it.
out the dent, pull it out with a slide-hammer-type dent puller. In
Tap with a hammer near the edge of the dent to help 'pop' the
the deepest portion of the dent or along the crease line, drill or
punch hole(s) at least one inch apart... metal back to its original shape. When you're finished, the dent
area should be close to its original contour and about 1/8-inch
below the surface of the surrounding metal

3 Using coarse-grit sandpaper, remove the paint down to the 4 When the paint is removed, touch will probably be more
bare metal. Hand sanding works fine, but the disc sander shown helpful than sight for telling if the metal is straight. Hammer
here makes the job faster. Use finer (about 320-grit) sandpaper to down the high spots or raise the low spots as necessary.
feather-edge the paint at least one inch around the dent area Clean the repair area with wax/silicone remover

5 Following label instructions, mix up a batch of plastic filler and 6 Working quickly so the filler doesn't harden, use a plastic
hardener. The ratio of filler to hardener is critical, and, if you mix it applicator to press the body filler firmly into the metal, assuring it
incorrectly, it will either not cure properly or cure too quickly (you bonds completely. Work the filler until it matches the original
won't have time to file and sand it into shape) contour and is slightly above the surrounding metal
 7 Let the filler harden until you can just dent it with your 8 Use coarse-grit sandpaper and a sanding board or block to
fingernail. Use a body file or Surform tool (shown here) to rough- work the filler down until it's smooth and even. Work down to
shape the filler finer grits of sandpaper - always using a board or block - ending
up with 360 or 400 grit

10 Apply several layers of primer to the area. Don't spray the

9 You shouldn't be able to feel any ridge at the transition from primer on too heavy, so it sags or runs, and make sure each coat
the filler to the bare metal or from the bare metal to the old paint. is dry before you spray on the next one. A professional-type spray
As soon as the repair is flat and uniform, remove the dust and gun is being used here, but aerosol spray primer is available
mask off the adjacent panels or trim pieces inexpensively from auto parts stores

11 The primer will help reveal imperfections or scratches. Fill 12 Finish sand the primer with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600-
these with glazing compound. Follow the label instructions and grit) to remove the primer overspray. Clean the area with water
sand it with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Repeat and allow it to dry. Use a tack rag to remove any dust, then apply
the glazing, sanding and respraying until the primer reveals a the finish coat. Don't attempt to rub out or wax the repair area
perfectly smooth surface until the paint has dried completely (at least two weeks)
11-4 Chapter 11 Body

3 Vinyl trim - maintenance Repair of dents

See photo sequence
4 When repairing dents, the first job is to pull the dent out until the
Don't clean vinyl trim with detergents, caustic soap or petroleum-
affected area is as close as possible to its original shape. There is no
based cleaners. Plain soap and water works just fine, with a soft brush
point in trying to restore the original shape completely as the metal in
to clean dirt that may be ingrained. Wash the vinyl as frequently as the
the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be
rest of the vehicle. After cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber
and vinyl protectant will help prevent oxidation and cracks. The restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the level of the dent
protectant can also be applied to weatherstripping, vacuum lines and up to a point which is about 1/8-inch below the level of the surrounding
rubber hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical degradation, and metal. In cases where the dent is very shallow, it is not worth trying to
pull it out at all.
to the tires.
5 If the back side of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind using a soft-face hammer. While doing this, hold a
4 Upholstery and carpets - maintenance block of wood firmly against the opposite side of the metal to absorb
the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being stretched.
6 If the dent is in a section of the body which has double layers, or
1 Every three months remove the floormats and clean the interior of some other factor makes it inaccessible from behind, a different
the vehicle (more frequently if necessary). Use a stiff whisk broom to technique is required. Drill several small holes through the metal inside
brush the carpeting and loosen dirt and dust, then vacuum the uphol- the damaged area, particularly in the deeper sections. Screw long, self
stery and carpets thoroughly, especially along seams and crevices. tapping screws into the holes just enough for them to get a good grip
2 Dirt and stains can be removed from carpeting with basic in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the
household or automotive carpet shampoos available in spray cans. protruding heads of the screws with locking pliers.
Follow the directions and vacuum again, then use a stiff brush to bring 7 The next stage of repair is the removal of paint from the damaged
back the "nap" of the carpet. area and from an inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is easily
3 Most interiors have cloth or vinyl upholstery, either of which can done with a wire brush or sanding disk in a drill motor, although it can
be cleaned and maintained with a number of material-specific cleaners be done just as effectively by hand with sandpaper. To complete the
or shampoos available in auto supply stores. Follow the directions on preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screw-
the product for usage, and always spot-test any upholstery cleaner on driver or the tang of a file or drill small holes in the affected area. This
an inconspicuous area (bottom edge of a back seat cushion) to ensure will provide a good grip for the filler material. To complete the repair,
that it doesn't cause a color shift in the material. see the section on filling and painting.
4 After cleaning, vinyl upholstery should be treated with a protectant.
Note: Make sure the protectant container indicates the product can be Repair of rust holes or gashes
used on seats - some products may make a seat too slippery. Caution:
Do not use protectant on vinyl-covered steering wheels. 8 Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so ol
5 Leather upholstery requires special care. It should be cleaned the surrounding metal using a sanding disk or wire brush mounted in a
regularly with saddlesoap or leather cleaner. Never use alcohol, drill motor. If these are not available, a few sheets of sandpaper will do
gasoline, nail polish remover or thinner to clean leather upholstery. the job just as effectively.
6 After cleaning, regularly treat leather upholstery with a leather 9 With the paint removed, you will be able to determine the severity
conditioner, rubbed in with a soft cotton cloth. Never use car wax on of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the whole panel, if
leather upholstery. possible, or repair the affected area. New body panels are not as
7 In areas where the interior of the vehicle is subject to bright expensive as most people think and it is often quicker to install a new
sunlight, cover leather seating areas of the seats with a sheet if the panel than to repair large areas of rust.
vehicle is to be left out for any length of time. 10 Remove all trim pieces from the affected area except those which
will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged body, such as
headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all
5 Body repair - minor damage loose metal and any other metal that is badly affected by rust. Hammer
the edges of the hole on the inside to create a slight depression for the
filler material.
Repair of scratches 11 Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the
1 If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate to the metal of surface of the metal. If the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it
the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a with rust inhibiting paint.
fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint and built up wax. Rinse 12 Before filling is done, block the hole in some way. This can be
the area with clean water. done with sheet metal riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing the
2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. hole with wire mesh.
Continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the 13 Once the hole is blocked off, the affected area can be filled and
scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least painted. See the following subsection on filling and painting.
two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by
rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a coat of Filling and painting
wax to the scratch area. 14 Many types of body fillers are available, but generally speaking,
3 If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of body repair kits which contain filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
the body, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is are best for this type of repair work. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon
required. Remove all loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a applicator will be necessary for imparting a smooth and contoured
pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of finish to the surface of the filler material. Mix up a small amount of filler
rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the on a clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the hardener sparingly).
scratched area with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can be mixed Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the package, otherwise the
with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow filler will set incorrectly.
scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece 15 Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area.
of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in Draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the
thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This desired contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour
will ensure that the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The scratch that approximates the original one is achieved, stop working the paste.
can now be painted over as described earlier in this section. If you continue, the paste will begin to stick to the applicator. Continue
 Chapter 11 Body 11-5

to add thin layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the level of the
filler is just above the surrounding metal.
16 Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed with a
body file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper and finishing with 600-
grit wet-or-dry paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat rubber
or wooden block, otherwise the surface of the filler will not be
completely flat. During the sanding of the filler surface, the wet-or-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a
very smooth finish is produced in the final stage.
17 At this point, the repair area should be surrounded by a ring of
bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered
edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water until all of
the dust produced by the sanding operation is gone.
18 Spray the entire area with a light coat of primer. This will reveal any
imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair the imperfections with
fresh filler paste or glaze filler and once more smooth the surface with
sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair procedure until you are sat-
isfied that the surface of the filler and the feathered edge of the paint are
perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and allow it to dry completely.
19 The repair area is now ready for painting. Spray painting must be
carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. These
conditions can be created if you have access to a large indoor work
area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick the
day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the
work area with water will help settle the dust which would otherwise be
in the air. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the 9.3 Disconnect the hood lamp wiring harness
surrounding panels. This will help minimize the effects of a slight before removing the hood
mismatch in paint color. Trim pieces such as chrome strips, door
handles, etc., will also need to be masked off or removed. Use masking
tape and several thickness of newspaper for the masking operations. be lubricated with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and ensure free
20 Before spraying, shake the paint can thoroughly, then spray a test movement. Lubricate the door and trunk locks with spray-on graphite
area until the spray painting technique is mastered. Cover the repair lubricant.
area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 600-grit
wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is 8 Windshield and fixed glass - replacement
very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly
rinsed with water and the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed as
Replacement of the windshield and fixed glass requires the use of
well. Allow the primer to dry before spraying additional coats.
special fast-setting adhesive/caulk materials and some specialized
21 Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using
tools and techniques. These operations should be left to a dealer
several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the center of the repair
service department or a shop specializing in glass work.
area and then, using a circular motion, work out until the whole repair
area and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is covered.
Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the
final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden,
9 Hood - removal, installation and adjustment
then use a very fine rubbing compound to blend the edges of the new
paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a coat of wax. Refer to illustrations 9,3 and 9.10
Note: The hood is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install
- at least two people should perform this procedure.
6 Body repair - major damage
Removal and installation
1 Major damage must be repaired by an auto body shop specifi- 1 Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and the
cally equipped to perform unibody repairs. These shops have the fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is lifted off.
specialized equipment required to do the job properly. 2 Scribe alignment marks around the hinge plates to insure proper
2 If the damage is extensive, the body must be checked for proper alignment during installation (paint or a permanent-type felt-tip marker
alignment or the vehicle's handling characteristics may be adversely also will work for this).
affected and other components may wear at an accelerated rate. 3 Disconnect any cables or wire harnesses which will interfere with
3 Due to the fact that all of the major body components (hood, removal (see illustration).
fenders, etc.) are separate and replaceable units, any seriously 4 Have an assistant support the weight of the hood. Remove the
damaged components should be replaced rather than repaired. hinge-to-hood nuts.
Sometimes the components can be found in a wrecking yard that 5 Lift off the hood.
specializes in used vehicle components, often at considerable savings 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.
over the cost of new parts.
Adjustment
7 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the hood is done by
7 Hinges and locks - maintenance moving the hood in relation to the hinge plate after loosening the bolts.
8 Scribe or trace a line around the entire hinge plate so you can
Once every 3000 miles, or every three months, the hinges and judge the amount of movement.
latch assemblies on the doors, hood and trunk should be given a few 9 Loosen the nuts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move
drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The door latch strikers should also it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts and carefully
lower the hood to check the alignment.
11-6 Chapter 11 Body

9.10 Thread the rubber bumper in-or-out to make fine

adjustments to the hood closed height

10.1 Detach the hood latch cable from the hood latch

11.2 Radiator grille installation details

10.4 Hood release cable and pull handle installation details the screws and detach the hood release cable and handle assembly
(see illustration).
5 Connect a string or piece of wire to the engine compartment end
10 Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so the hood is of the cable, then detach the cable and pull it through the firewall into
flush with the fenders when closed (see illustration). the passenger compartment.
11 The safety catch assembly on the hood itself can also be adjusted 6 Connect the string or wire to the new cable and pull it through the
fore-and-aft and side-to-side after loosening the bolts. firewall into the engine compartment.
12 The hood latch assembly, as well as the hinges, should be period- 7 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.
ically lubricated with white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking and
wear.
11 Radiator grille - removal and installation
10 Hood latch and cable - removal and installation
Refer to illustration 11.2
Refer to illustrations 10.1 and 10.4 Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
Latch prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
1 Remove the bolts, detach the latch assembly, then use a screw-
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
driver to detach the cable end (see illustration).
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully
2 Installation is the reverse of removal.
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
Cable 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Remove the mounting screws, detach the lower clips and detach
3 Disconnect the cable from the latch (see illustration 10.1).
the grille assembly (see illustration).
4 In the passenger compartment, remove the kick panel. Remove 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
 Chapter 11 Body 11-7

12.5 Inner fender installation details 12.7 Remove the bolts and detach the fender

13.3 Remove the upper and lower facia retainers 13.4 Remove the fasteners retaining the fender liner to the facia

12 Front fender - removal and installation 13 Bumpers - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.5 and 12.7 Refer to illustrations 13.3, 13.4, 13.8, 13.10 and 13.11
Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components. negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12. discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove
the front wheel.
3 Remove the headlight housing assembly, side marker and turn Front
signal lamps (see Chapter 12). 1 The front bumper on these models consists of the lower fascia.
4 Remove the front bumper fascia assembly (see Section 13). The lower crossmember which is welded to the frame, functions as the
5 Remove the inner fender liner (see illustration). actual bumper. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery
6 Disconnect the antenna and all light bulb wiring harness terminal and remove the grille (see Section 11).
connectors and other components that would interfere with fender 2 Remove the right and left headlight housing assemblies, side
removal. marker and turn signal lamps (see Chapter 12).
7 Remove the fender mounting bolts and nuts (see illustration). 3 Remove the front fascia retainers (see illustration).
8 Detach the fender. It's a good idea to have an assistant support 4 Remove the plastic rivets from the front of the inner fender liners
the fender while it's being moved away from the vehicle to prevent (see illustration).
damage to the surrounding body panels. 5 Slide the fascia off the retaining pegs, using a small screw driver
9 Installation is the reverse of removal. to detach the locating tangs under the turn signal mounts.
10 Tighten all nuts, bolts and screws securely. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.
11-8 Chapter 11 Body

13.8 The hitch must be removed before the rear

bumper can be removed 13.10 Remove the bum—- support bracket bolts

Rear
7 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
8 On models equipped with a trailer hitch, detach the wiring
harness, support the hitch, remove retaining nuts and lower the hitch
assembly (see illustration).
9 Support the bumper and remove the inner fender retainers.
10 Remove the bumper support bolts and slide the bumper
beam/fascia assembly off the vehicle (see illustration).
11 Remove the support brackets from the bumper (see illustration).
12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

14 Door trim panel - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 14.2a, 14.2b, 14.2c, 14.5 and 14.6

1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Remove the door trim panel retaining screws and the door
pull/armrest assembly (see illustrations).
3 On manual window models, remove the window crank.
4 Insert a special door panel clip removal tool (available at auto
parts stores) or a putty knife between the trim panel and the door and
disengage the retaining clips. Work around the outer edge until the
panel is free.
5 Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach the trim panel,
disconnect any wire harness connectors and remove the trim panel
from the vehicle (see illustration).
6 For access to the inner door, carefully peel back the plastic water-
shield (see illustration). 13.11 Rear bumper installation details

14.2a Use a Phillips screwdriver to 14.2Ь Remove the door trim panel screw 14.2c Remove the screw, then pry off the
remove the door trim panel screws located in the armrest door handle cover
 Chapter 11 Body 11-9

14.5 Pull the panel away from the door 14.6 Peel the water deflector carefully 15.1 Disconnect the door electrical
and disconnect the electrical connectors away from the door, taking care not to connectors (arrows) and remove the
tear or distort it harness from the door

15.3 Use a marking pen to mark the bolt alignment 16.2 Rotate the plastic clip up and disconnect the latch rod links
locations before removing the door

7 Prior to installation of the door panel, be sure to reinstall any clips 15 Door - removal, installation and adjustment
in the panel which may have come out during the removal procedure
and remain in the door itself. Refer to illustrations 15.1 and 15.3
8 Connect the wire harness connectors and place the panel in 1 Remove the door trim panel. Disconnect any wire harness
position in the door. Press the trim panel into place until the clips are connectors and push them through the door opening so they won't
seated. interfere with door removal (see illustration).
9 Install the armrest/door pulls and the window crank. Connect the 2 Place a jack under the door or have an assistant on hand to support
negative battery cable. it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a jack is used, place a rag
between it and the door to protect the door's painted surfaces.
3 Scribe around the mounting bolt heads with a marking pen,
remove the bolts and carefully lift off the door (see illustration).
4 Installation is the reverse of removal, making sure to align the
hinge with the marks made during removal before tightening the bolts.
5 Following installation of the door, check the alignment and adjust
it if necessary as follows by moving the door lock striker.

16 Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal

and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2, 16.3, 16.7, 16.10 and 16.12

Latch
1 Raise the window completely and remove the door trim panel and
watershield (see Section 14).
2 Disconnect the link rods from the latch (see illustration).
16.3 Remove the three door latch bolts 3 Remove the three Torx-head mounting bolts (see illustration). It
may be necessary to use an impact-driver to loosen them.
11-10 Chapter 11 Body

16.10 Front door outside handle and lock cylinder

installation details

Outside handle
10 Disconnect the outside handle (remote control) link from the latch,
16.7 Insert a hex-head wrench into the adjustment hole, loosen remove the mounting nuts and detach the handle from the door (see
the screw and move the wrench up in the slot to illustration).
remove slack from the linkage 11 Place the handle in position, attach the link and install the nuts.
Tighten the nuts securely.

4 Remove the latch from the door. Inside handle

5 Place the latch in position and install the mounting bolts. Tighten
the bolts securely. 12 Remove the retaining bolt, rotate the handle forward and
6 Connect the link rods to the latch. disconnect the links, then lift the handle off the door (see illustration).
7 Check the door to make sure it closes properly. Readjust the latch
(by loosening the bolts and moving it) as necessary until the door
closes smoothly (with the door handle flush with the door). After instal- 17 Door window glass - removal and installation
lation, loosen the linkage adjusting screw by inserting a 5/32-inch
hex-head wrench through the adjustment hole in the end of the door Refer to illustrations 17.4 and 17.5
(see illustration). Loosen the adjustment screw and push it up in the 1 Remove the door trim panel and watershield (see Section 14).
slot to remove all slack from the linkage, then tighten it. 2 Lower the glass.
3 Pry the weatherstripping and molding out of the door glass
Lock cylinder opening.
8 Remove the outside door handle (see below). Disconnect the link, 4 On rear windows, remove the screws, tilt the stationary glass
use a screwdriver to push the key lock cylinder retainer off and forward and lift it out of the door (see illustration).
withdraw the lock cylinder from the door. 5 Remove the two nuts retaining the glass to the window track and
9 Installation is the reverse of removal. slide the glass until the studs line up with the holes in the track, then

16.12 Remove the bolt (arrow), rotate the inside handle forward 17.4 Remove the screws and detach the rear door stationary
and disconnect the rods glass from the channel
 Chapter 11 Body 11-11

17.5 Loosen the nuts located at each end, slide the track off and
lift the glass out of the door
18.3a Front door window regulator details

detach the glass (see illustration).

6 Lift the glass up and out of the door through the glass opening.
7 To install, lower the glass into the door, slide it into position and
install the nuts.

18 Door window regulator - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 18.3a and 18.3b

1 Remove the door trim panel and watershield (see Section 14).
2 Remove the door window glass (see Section 17).
3 Loosen or remove the window regulator-to-door and channel
attaching screws (see illustrations).
4 Remove the regulator from the door.
5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

19 Center console - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 19.2, 19.3, 19.4, 19.5a, 19.5b and 19.8 18.3b Rear door window regulator details
Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components. 2 Remove the cup holder (see illustration).
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before 3 Remove the shift knob by grasping it securely and pulling straight
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully it up and off (see illustration).
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12. 4 Pry the shift position (PRNDL) plate off (see illustration).

19.2 Detach the cup holder 19.3 Grasp the shift knob securely 19.4 Detach the shift plate and lift if off
from the console and
pull it straight up sharply to remove it
11-12 Chapter 11 Body

19.5a Full floor console installation details 19.5b Mini console installation details

20.1 Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the

litigate panel screws
19.8 Overhead console installation details

5 Remove the mounting screws/bolts, detach the console and lift it 20 Liftgate trim panel - removal and installation
up (see illustrations).
6 Disconnect any electrical connectors and remove the console Refer to illustrations 20.7, 20.2, 20.4 and 20.5
from the vehicle. 1 Remove the liftgate trim panel retaining screws (see illustration).
7 Installation is the reverse of removal. 2 Carefully pry loose the retaining clips with a special trim panel
removal tool (available at auto parts stores) or a putty knife between
Overhead console the trim panel and the door. Work slowly and carefully around the outer
8 Remove the front console retaining screw and disconnect the trip edge of the trim panel until it's free (see illustration).
computer electrical connector (see illustration). 3 Once all of the clips are disengaged, pull the trim panel up,
9 Slide the console forward, detach it from the bracket and lower it disconnect any wire harness connectors and remove the panel.
sufficiently to disconnect the electrical connectors, then remove it from 4 For access to the liftgate inner panel, carefully peel back the
the vehicle. plastic sound deadener (see illustration).
Чо Remove the retaining screws and detach the rear half of the 5 Prior to installation of the trim panel, be sure to reinstall any clips
console. in the panel which may have remained in the door when you removed
11 Installation is the reverse of removal. the panel (see illustration).
 Chapter 11 Body 11-13

20.2 Use a trim panel clip removal tool to pry the 20.4 Be careful not to tear or stretch the sound
plastic retainers out of the liftgate deadener as you peel it off

20.5 Remove any retainers that have 21.5 A Torx head tool will be necessary to 22.2 Remove the two bolts (arrows)
come loose and reinstall them in remove the liftgate hinge bolts (arrows) retaining the upper end of the
the trim panel strut to the liftgate

2 Remove the trim panel, disconnect all electrical connectors and

pull the wiring harness out of the liftgate
3 Paint or scribe alignment marks around the liftgate hinge flanges.
4 While an assistant supports the liftgate, detach the support struts
(see Section 22).
5 Remove the hinge bolts and detach the liftgate from the vehicle
(see illustration).
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be extremely careful with
the wire harness when threading it back into the liftgate or you could
cut it on a metal edge.
7 After installation, close the liftgate and make sure it's in proper
alignment with the surrounding body panels.
8 If the liftgate needs to be adjusted, loosen the hinge bolts slightly,
gently close the liftgate and verify that it's centered (the striker should
center it). Then carefully open the liftgate and retighten the hinge bolts.

22 Support strut - replacement

22.3 Use a small screwdriver to detach the clip, the pull out
sharply on the lower end of the strut to detach it from the ballstud Refer to illustrations 22.2 and 22.3
1 Open and support the liftgate.
2 Remove the two Torx head screws at the upper end of the strut
21 Liftgate - removal, installation and adjustment (see illustration).
3 Use a small screwdriver to detach the clip at the lower end of
Refer to illustration 21.5 each strut, then grasp the strut securely and pull it out sharply to
1 Open the liftgate and cover the upper body area around the detach it from the ballstud (see illustration).
opening with pads or cloths to protect the painted surfaces when the 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten all fasteners
liftgate is removed. securely.
11-14 Chapter 11 Body

23.5 Remove the defroster duct screws (arrows)

23.7 Remove the cluster bezel-to-dash pad screws (arrows)

24.5 Lower trim panel installation details

24 Instrument panel trim bezels - removal and installation

Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is

armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
24.2 Remove the six center bezel retaining screws After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
23 Instrument cluster bezel - removal and installation
Center instrument panel bezel
Refer to illustrations 23.5 and 23.7 Refer to illustration 24.2
Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is 1 Remove the ash tray.
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To 2 Remove the six screws and detach the center bezel (see illus-
t prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the tration).
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully Switch pod bezel
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12. Refer to illustrations 24.5, 24.6 and 24.9
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 4 Remove the center bezel and the instrument cluster bezel (see
2 Remove the center instrument panel bezel (see Section 24). Section 23).
3 Remove the two screws behind the top of the center bezel 5 Open the driver's door for access and remove the left lower trim
retaining the dash pad. panel (see illustration).
4 Pry the defroster grille out, disconnect any sensors and set the 6 Remove the lower steering column trim panel and knee blocker
grille aside. (see illustration).
5 Remove the four screws in the defroster duct that retain the dash 7 Remove the steering column nuts and lower the steering column,
pad (see illustration). if necessary.
6 Open the glove box, remove the two screws retaining the dash 8 Remove the bezel retaining screws.
pad and pull up on the pad to detach the end clips. 9 Detach the switch pod bezel, pull it out far to disconnect the
7 Remove the three cluster bezel-to-dash pad retaining screws and electrical connectors and remove it. Turn the bezel over for access to
detach the bezel (see illustration). the switch pods (see illustration).
8 Installation is the reverse of removal. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.
 Chapter 11 Body 11-15

24.9 Turn the switch pod bezel over for access to the switches

column covers, knee blocker, lower instrument panel bezels and the
switch pod bezel (see Sections 23, 24 and 26).
3 Disconnect the steering column wiring harness connector,
remove the steering column nuts, lower the column and support it on
the front seat.
24.6 Steering column lower trim panel and knee blocker 4 Remove the left and right side cowl panels and kick panels.
Disconnect the electrical connector and radio antenna cable at the
installation details
right side kick panel.
5 Remove the hood release handle (see Section 10).
6 Remove the center floor console (see Section 19).
25 Instrument panel - removal and installation 7 Remove the radio (see Chapter 12) and heater/air conditioning
control panel (see Chapter 3).
Refer to illustration 25.11 8 Disconnect the instrument panel bulkhead electrical connector
Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The airbag is and instrument cluster wiring harness at the lower left side of the
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To instrument panel.
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the 9 Disconnect the heater/air conditioning electrical and vacuum lines.
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components. 10 Remove the instrument panel dash pad.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before 11 Remove the four upper instrument panel retaining nuts. Remove
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully the left and right hand instrument panel mounting screws. Remove the
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12. mounting screw behind the ash tray and the screw above the steering
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. column. Remove the two screws at the left center console mounting
2 Remove the defroster grille, instrument cluster bezel, steering bracket (see illustration).

25.11 Instrument panel installation details

11-16 Chapter 11 Body

26.3 Remove the three Phillips head screws and detach 26.4 Unscrew the column tilt lever and lift the
the lower steering column cover upper column cover off

12 Pull the instrument panel back for access and disconnect any
remaining electrical connectors.
13 With the help of an assistant, remove the instrument panel from
the vehicle.
14 Installation is the reverse of removal.

26 Steering column covers - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 26.3 and 26.4

Warning: These models are equipped with airbags. The alrbag is
armed and can deploy (inflate) anytime the battery is connected. To
prevent accidental deployment (and possible injury), disconnect the
negative battery cable whenever working near airbag components.
After the battery is disconnected, wait at least 2 minutes before
beginning work (the system has a back-up capacitor that must fully
discharge). For more information see Chapter 12.
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2 Remove the steering column lower trim panel (see Section 24).
3 Remove the screws and detach the lower half of the column
cover (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the steering column tilt lever and remove the upper half
of the cover (see illustration).
5 Installation is the reverse of removal.
27.1 Windshield mounted rear view mirror details

27.6a Use a small screwdriver to pry out 27.6b Remove the screw and 27.7 Peel back the sound deadener for
the mirror bezel screw cover detach the bezel access to the three mirror nuts (arrow)
 Chapter 11 Body 11-17

Exterior mirror
5 Remove the door trim panel (see Section 14).
6 Remove the screws and detach the mirror knob (if equipped) and
bezel (see illustrations). On power mirrors, disconnect the electrical
connector.
7 Remove the nuts and detach the mirror from the door (see illus-
tration).
8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

28 Cowl grille - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 28.3

1 Mark the position of the windshield wiper blades on the
windshield with a wax marking pen.
2 Remove the wiper arms.
3 Remove the cowl retaining screws, disconnect the windshield
washer hoses and detach the cowl from the vehicle (see illustration).
4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to align the wiper
blades with the marks made during removal.

29 Seats - removal and installation

28.3 Cowl cover installation details
Refer to illustrations 29.1 and 29.4

Front
27 Rear view mirrors - removal and installation 1 Remove the rear seat-to-track bolts, then move the seat rearward
and remove the bolts at the front (see illustration). Disconnect any
Refer to illustrations 27.1, 27.Ba, 27.6b and 27.7 electrical connectors attached to the seat.
2 Lift the seat from the vehicle.
Interior mirror 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
1 Grasp the lower section of the wire cover securely remove it by Rear
sliding it up and off (see illustration).
2 Disconnect the electrical connector. 4 Remove the seat cushion-to-floor mounting bolts, then detach
3 Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the set screw, then slide the the cushion and lift it out (see illustration).
mirror up off the button on the windshield. 5 Remove the bolts and lift seat back out of the vehicle.
4 Installation is the reverse of removal. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

29.1 Front seat installation details 29.4 Rear seat installation details
11-18 Chapter 11 Body

Notes