Planta (2024) 260:132

https://doi.org/10.1007/s00425-024-04550-8

REVIEW

Aromatic plants as cosmeceuticals: benefits and applications for skin

health
Jesus Olivero‑Verbel1 · Patricia Quintero‑Rincón2,3 · Karina Caballero‑Gallardo1,2

Received: 25 June 2024 / Accepted: 9 October 2024 / Published online: 5 November 2024
© The Author(s) 2024

Abstract
Main conclusion This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to
combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation.

Abstract Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating
back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry
to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants’ diverse bioactivities and
sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin
through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation
in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the
primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins,
stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed
from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-
tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue
regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their
benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L.
(Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae),
Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus
L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role
in promoting health and rejuvenation.

Keywords Cosmeceutical · Bioactive compounds · Antioxidants · Anti-aging · Antiphotoaging · Aromatic plants

Abbreviations
1
O2 Singlet oxygen
AKT Serine/threonine kinase (also called protein
kinase B)
Communicated by Gerhard Leubner.
AP-1 Transcription factor activator protein 1
* Karina Caballero‑Gallardo CAT​ Catalase
[email protected] COX-2 Cyclooxygenase-2
1 CK Cytokeratin-17
Environmental and Computational Chemistry Group. School
of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Zaragocilla Campus, University DEJ Dermal-epidermal junction
of Cartagena, Cartagena 130014, Colombia DNA Deoxyribonucleic acid
2
Functional Toxicology Group. School of Pharmaceutical Eos Essential oils
Sciences, Zaragocilla Campus, University of Cartagena, GSH Glutathione
Cartagena 130014, Colombia H2O2 Hydrogen peroxide
3
Research Group Design and Formulation of Medicines, HO Hydroxyl
Cosmetics, and Related, Faculty of Pharmaceutical and Food HRBC Human red blood cell hemolysis
Sciences, Universidad de Antioquia, Medellín 050010, IFN-γ Interferon gamma
Colombia

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IgE Immunoglobulin E therefore, they are safe for industry and favor sustainable
IL-1 Interleukin 1 cultivation on a large scale (Mishra and Chandra 2022).
IL-17α Interleukin-17 The studies have demonstrated the immense potential of
IL-1β Interleukin-1 beta plants to treat various pathologies. Hence, extracts, essential
IL-22 Interleukin-22 oils, and phytocompounds of aromatic species are widely
IL-6 Interleukin 6 used in both the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries as
IL-8 Interleukin 8 active ingredients, taking advantage of their medicinal and
iNOS Nitric oxide synthase organoleptic properties (Michalak 2022).
JAK/STAT​ Janus kinase (JAK)-signal transducer and Therapeutic strategies for skin care are closely linked
activator of transcription (STAT) pathway to the presence of endogenous antioxidants (polyphenols,
LDH Lactate dehydrogenase including phenolic acids, flavonoids, tannins, and stilbenes,
L-DOPA L-dihydroxyphenylalanine as well as steroids, terpenes, carotenoids, and steroidal sapo-
MAPK Mitogen-activated protein kinase nins) biosynthesized by most botanical species as a defense
MMP-1 Matrix metalloprotease-1 mechanism against external aggressors, for example, those
MMPs Matrix metalloproteases caused by high exposure to sunlight (Quintero-Rincón et al.
mRNA Messenger ribonucleic acid 2023). These biosynthesized antioxidants are appropri-
NFκB Nuclear factor kappa B ate for the development of cosmeceuticals because they
NLRP3 Pyrin domain-containing protein 3 reduce ROS damage in skin cells and modulate molecular
NO Nitric oxide cell receptors, gene expression, and inhibition of enzymatic
Nrf2 Transcription factor nuclear factor erythroid activity (Hernandez et al. 2021).
2-related factor 2 The term "cosmeceutical" describes a product that exerts
O2 Superoxide both cosmetic and pharmaceutical properties (Carpio et al.
PI3K Phosphoinositide 3-kinase 2021), and whose use is oriented to pharmaceutical thera-
PE Plant extract peutic benefits on the skin (Pandey et al. 2019). Draelos
PPAR-γ Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (2008) defines a cosmeceutical as a “functional cosmet-
gamma ics designed to adorn the face and body without changing
RO Alkoxyl the structure of the human form”. These products contain
RO2 Peroxyl natural bioactive components, vitamins, and enzymes, that
ROOH Organic peroxides can derive from plants, marine organisms, and microorgan-
ROS Reactive oxygen species isms (Alves et al. 2020), and have a low toxicity profile.
SASP Senescence-associated secretory phenotype The major therapeutic benefits obtained from cosmeceuti-
SA-β-gal Senescence-associated beta-galactosidase cal products are anti-aging, skin hydrating, photoprotection,
SIRT1 Sirtuin 1 depigmenting, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammatory, as well
SPF Sun protection factor as their antibacterial (anti-acne) and antifungal properties,
TGF-β Transforming growth factor beta among others (Pandey et al. 2019; Alves et al. 2020).
TNF-α Tumor necrosis factor alpha Currently, society experiences a strong need to consume
TRP1 Tyrosine-related protein 1 innovative products that contribute to promoting a healthy
TYR​ Tyrosinase appearance and a youthful face through the use of cosmet-
UVA Ultraviolet A ics that include natural ingredients as part of a more natural
UVB Ultraviolet B mode of life (Lall et al. 2020; Strzępek-Gomółka et al. 2021;
Michalak et al. 2021; Chaiyana et al. 2021), which has led
to an exponential increase in the global demand for cosme-
ceutical products (Ullah et al. 2017).
Introduction The receptiveness of cosmeceutical products in the global
beauty and personal care market has sparked a notable inter-
The cosmeceutical properties of aromatic plants date back est in both industry and academia to explore the beneficial
to ancient times (Lall et al. 2020). These botanical species properties of aromatic plants. This interest is reflected in the
produce volatile compounds called essential oils (EOs), significant increase in publications on the topic, which has
which are responsible for their distinctive fragrances (Mishra experienced spectacular growth in recent years.
and Chandra 2022). Aromatic plants have significant value A search carried out by Scholar Google (accessed in
in various industries including perfumery, aromatherapy, May 2024) showed information about the number of inves-
food processing, and cosmetics. Also, EOs do not accumu- tigations related to “cosmeceuticals” and “aromatic plants”
late hazardous metals that allow entry into the food chain; used for their beneficial properties for human health. The
Planta (2024) 260:132 Page 3 of 24 132

first publications appeared in 2003, where the benefits of The review aims to showcase the effectiveness and versatil-
plants such as Arnica montana L., Chamomilla recutita L. ity of extracts, EOs, and phytocompounds as natural ingre-
or Matricaria chamomilla L., Hamamelis virginiana L., and dients. It also delves into their ability to enhance skin health
Calendula officinalis L. were highlighted for their proper- and elevate the quality of cosmeceutical products.
ties for the management of skin accesses (furunculosis),
surface-phlebitis and lesions of the skin surface, astringent Cosmeceuticals overview
and hemostatic, and improvement of wound healing, respec-
tively (Schulz 2003), including other medicinal species that Cosmeceuticals are a combination of cosmetics and phar-
are currently of commercial importance. However, in the maceuticals. This term was coined in 1962 by Raymond E.
last 12 years, there has been an increase in research related Reed, a member of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chem-
to cosmeceuticals (Fig. 1). This growing interest has been ists, and in 1984 by Dr. Albert Kligman of the University
facilitated by the discovery of new technologies and the of Pennsylvania for his work on the anti-aging effects of
incorporation of novel natural ingredients for the promo- tretinoin (Pandey et al. 2019). The Federal Food, Drug, and
tion of healthy skin. In this way, a total of 18,730 articles Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) does not recognize this term;
were published, of which 916 specifically are focused on however, these products are widely used in the cosmetic
the cosmeceutical properties of aromatic plant species, industry using the INCI name (International Nomenclature
which account for approximately 5% of the most extensively of Cosmetic Ingredients), followed by the Latin binomial
studied natural sources, especially for their anti-aging and that indicates the part of the plant employed within cosme-
antiphotoaging properties. ceutical formulation (e.g., leaf, root, rhizomes, bark), and the
Plant-based cosmeceuticals are increasingly recognized extraction product (e.g., extract, oil) (Ferreira et al. 2021).
for their ability to improve skin health. Compared to syn- A cosmeceutical is a topical skin product that reduces
thetic alternatives, these natural products exhibit superior premature aging and maintains its integrity. This product
skin tolerance and efficacy and serve as a renewable and contains bioactive ingredients that provide medical benefits.
sustainable source of active compounds. Furthermore, plant- However, its effectiveness is dependent on the compounds
based cosmeceuticals are more affordable, making them present in the final formulation (Hu et al. 2020; Zerbinati
accessible to consumers (Goyal et al. 2022). et al. 2021). According to its function, the ingredients of a
To mitigate potential adverse reactions associated with cosmeceutical are classified as humectant, emollient, emul-
prolonged use of chemical-based synthetic cosmetics, the sifier, solvent antimicrobial, skin conditioning, preservative
industry employs extracts and EOs rich in antioxidant prop- and perfume, chelating agent, surfactant, and film-forming.
erties as viable ingredients. Numerous studies have shown The cosmeceutical industry is interested in obtaining active
that the chemical composition of these natural ingredients ingredients from aromatic and medicinal plants that fulfill
can effectively reduce oxidative stress, presenting innovative at least one of the functions indicated above (Hernandez
alternatives for cosmeceutical formulations (Prasanth et al. et al. 2021). The challenge of this trend in cosmetology is
2019). In this context, a literature review was conducted to obtaining a formulation of safe and biocompatible functional
determine the benefits for the skin of some aromatic plants. cosmetics, biodegradable, and mild to the skin (Hernandez
et al. 2021; Zerbinati et al. 2021).
Skin is a pivotal organ of the body composed of lipids
and proteins, which exerts the function of a protective bar-
rier to the internal organs (Hernandez et al. 2021). The skin
protects against external threats caused by sunlight, xeno-
biotic agents, opportunistic pathogens, and environmental
pollution (Boismal et al. 2020). It is the largest, visible, and
exposed organ of the human body and changes both struc-
tural and functional due to chronological and environmental
aging (Rorteau et al. 2020). It reflects its general health con-
dition and, therefore, acts as a sensory organ that allows the
monitoring and evaluation of the aging processes (Strzępek-
Gomółka et al. 2021; Chaiyana et al. 2021).
At the structural level (Fig. 2), the skin consists of a
complex multi-layered system that includes the epidermis,
dermis, and hypodermis (Yazdi and Baqersad 2022). The
Fig. 1  Publications on “aromatic plants” and “cosmeceuticals” for the epidermis is a dynamic structure that acts as a selectively
last 12 years permeable membrane that maintains proper moisture within
132 Page 4 of 24 Planta (2024) 260:132

Fig. 2  Human skin layers and

main molecular components
related to skin aging

the body (Lim 2021). It is the outermost layer and comprises a connective tissue located under the dermis that contains
structures known as stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stra- both adipose lobules and skin appendages, among them hair
tum granulosum, stratum spinosum, and the stratum basale. follicles, blood vessels, and sensory neurons (Yousef et al.
Also, it contains keratinocytes, melanocytes, mastocytes, 2022).
pigment cells, Merkel cells, and Langerhans cells (Micha- Mechanisms leading to chronological aging of the skin
lak et al. 2021; Yazdi and Baqersad 2022). Melanocyte cells are related to ROS generated during oxidative cell metabo-
contained in the stratum basale are responsible for synthesiz- lism, DNA damage, decreased DNA repair, decreased DNA
ing melanin in the dermis layer through the enzyme tyrosi- methylation and phosphorylation reaction, telomere shorten-
nase (a key enzyme of melanogenesis) by oxidation and ing, gene loss, oncogene, and tumor suppressor gene deregu-
hydroxylation of L-tyrosine (Carpio et al. 2021; Shanbhag lation, as well as hormonal changes, for example, the decline
et al. 2019). Melanin plays a pivotal role in heat regulation, of estrogen (menopause) and testosterone (men and women)
cosmetic interaction, and camouflage. Its major function is in old age (Orioli and Dellambra 2018; Tobin 2017). Mecha-
to prevent damage caused by ROS generated by exposure nisms leading to photoaging are a consequence of chronic
to sunlight due to broadband UV absorption, as well as its exposure to both UVB (290–320 nm) and UVA (320–400
antioxidants and free radical scavenging properties (Alves nm) wavelengths. The energy transferred due to UV radia-
et al. 2020). Melanin is increased during chronic exposure to tion is capable of generating ROS which leads to transcrip-
UV radiation, which results in hyperpigmentation of the skin tion factor activation, and lipid peroxidation, increasing
that is observed as patches, melasma, solar lentigines, or ROS, MMP-1, and IL-1, among others (Ferreira et al. 2021).
liver spots, among others. On the other hand, the tyrosinase In general, the causes that lead to chronological aging and
enzyme limits melanin production, consequently, it is the photoaging are categorized into three groups and are associ-
most important target for inhibitors of hyperpigmentation ated with the biological, environmental, and lifestyle factors
(Mann et al. 2018). In general, homeostasis imbalances of of each individual (Fig. 3).
the epidermis are associated with skin deterioration, conse- From a molecular point of view, skin aging is mainly
quently, the epidermis is a topical important in cosmetology caused by oxidative stress due to an increase in ROS
and related sciences. The dermis underlies the epidermis [hydroxyl (HO·), superoxide ­(O2·-), alkoxyl (RO·), peroxyl
and contains fibroblasts responsible for producing collagen, ­(RO2·), singlet oxygen (1O2) radicals, hydrogen peroxide
elastin, and hyaluronic acid (glycosaminoglycans). Both ­(H2O2) and organic peroxides (ROOH)] (Shanbhag et al.
elastin and collagen fibers are responsible for the strength 2019), which are generated by multiple factors, including
and elasticity or resiliency of the skin (Strzępek-Gomółka oxidative metabolism, degradation of antioxidants, inflam-
et al. 2021; Mota et al. 2021), while hyaluronic acid with its matory response, and especially, chronic sunlight exposure
high-water retention capacity possesses moisturizing prop- (Jarzycka et al. 2013). ROS levels elevated induce the mito-
erties. Additionally, the dermis contains numerous blood gen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway activation.
vessels and nerve endings, as well as hair follicles, sweat, The activation of the MAPK pathway entails the activation
and sebaceous glands (Michalak et al. 2021). The hypoder- of both the transcription factor activator protein 1 (AP-1)
mis or subcutaneous fascia is the deepest layer of skin. It is and the suppression of the transforming growth factor-beta/
Planta (2024) 260:132 Page 5 of 24 132

Fig. 3  Factors associated

with chronological aging and
photoaging

Smad signaling pathway (TGF-β/Smad), which are involved Biological and environmental factors, as well as lifestyle
in the transcriptional regulation of several endopeptidases habits, e.g., caloric restriction, exert an impact on healthy
MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases). Both TGF-β/Smad sup- aging and human longevity (Zia et al. 2021). When the skin
pression and MMPs activation are responsible for aberrant faces unfavorable conditions, it is subject to loss of its integ-
collagen homeostasis and its progressive fragmentation in rity, which implicates a decrease in elasticity and resistance
the dermis layer, which accelerates chronological aging, and increases in laxity, and pigmentation processes (Zerbi-
and photoaging (Boismal et al. 2020). Thus, chronological nati et al. 2021; Rorteau et al. 2020). Therefore, the cosme-
aging is characterized by thinning epidermis and wrinkles ceutical industry focuses on the design of formulations that
formation, while the process of photoaging causes hyper- contain active ingredients that improve the appearance of
pigmentation and deep wrinkles. Additionally, the activa- the skin and that also cross the epidermis to exert a pharma-
tion of MMPs leads to inflammatory responses due to the cological effect (Zerbinati et al. 2021). The strategies used
activation of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of include those procedures that limit the impact of aging at
activated B cells (NFκB) regulating the transcription of the epidermis, dermis, and vascular levels (Rorteau et al.
proinflammatory cytokines, among them IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, 2020). Among these effects highlight photoprotective, anti-
and TNF-α. In keratinocytes, NFκB activation induces both oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and senolytic activities, as well
cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) as inhibition of tyrosinase, melanin transfer, melanocyte
expressions, which lead to erythema, tanning, suppression proliferation, elasticity recovery, and skin hydration, which
of acquired immunity, and decrease of blood pressure via taken together, are part of anti-aging strategies (Boismal
nitric oxide (NO), among others (Boismal et al. 2020). A et al. 2020).
schematic representation of the impact of ROS on the skin Thus, the skin’s natural aging occurs progressively as an
by chronologic aging and photoaging due to intrinsic and age-related change, characterized by a decrease in its repair
extrinsic factors, respectively, is shown in Fig. 4. capacity and an increase in the production of free radicals
132 Page 6 of 24 Planta (2024) 260:132

Fig. 4  Diagram of the impact of ROS on the skin

due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Chronic exposure to anti-aging treatments, scar reduction solutions, antioxidants,
sunlight is a critical factor since the increase in ROS levels hair-strengthening products, and treatments for specific skin
leads to protein and DNA damage, as well as amino acid disorders (Pandey et al. 2019). Additionally, the category
racemization and non-enzymatic glycosylation (Michalak includes essential items like cleansers, moisturizers, and
et al. 2021). This leads to an impact on skin homeostasis anti-inflammatory agents (Draelos 2017).
which is reflected in its visual appearance. Hence, the dete- Among the valuable botanical species for the cosmeceuti-
rioration of the epidermal and dermal layers by chronic cal industry, Foeniculum vulgare Mill., also known as fen-
exposure to UV radiation is known as premature aging nel, stands out for its versatility. Its various forms—such as
(Hussain et al. 2021). For example, thin, pale, fair skin is oil, seed, leaf extract, and fruit powder—are utilized in a
due to a decrease in melanocytes, while loss of elasticities range of products, including serums, toners, shampoos, con-
and fulfills are raised to a decrease in elastin and collagen, ditioners, and sunscreens with sun protective factor (SPF)
respectively. Other characteristics of aging include fine lines 50 (https://​incid​ecoder.​com/​search?​query=​Foeni​culum+​
and wrinkles, sagging, hyperpigmentation, hyperkeratosis, vulgar​ e+/Accessed September 01, 2024). This plant is often
dryness, telangiectasias, elastosis, susceptibility to irri- used in combination with other aromatic species to develop
tation, decreased rate of skin regeneration, and recovery a variety of cosmeceuticals with fennel as a key compo-
(Kusumawati et al. 2018). Under these circumstances, the nent. Among the variety of fennel-based cosmeceuticals, the
skin needs anti-aging treatment to increase the production of Lather Advanced Blemish Control serum stands out. This
its natural components or slow down natural loss (Michalak serum is designed for the treatment of skin blemishes and
et al. 2021; Strzępek-Gomółka et al. 2021). is suitable for application on the entire face or in specific
areas. The formula also includes beneficial ingredients such
Classification of cosmeceuticals as Aloe barbadensis Miller. (A. vera L.) leaf extract, Achil-
lea millefolium Linn. root extract, and essential oils such
Currently, there is no universally accepted classification as Mentha piperita L. and Melaleuca alternifolia (Maiden
system for cosmeceuticals, leading to varied categoriza- y Betche) Cheel. Together, these components contribute to
tions based on their intended use or specific etiological the serum’s effectiveness in promoting clear, healthy skin.
indications. These products can be grouped into several In addition to extracts or EOs, phytocompounds are piv-
categories, including skin-lightening or depigmentation otal ingredients in the development of cosmeceuticals, offer-
agents, sunscreens, moisturizing agents, anti-wrinkle and ing various beneficial properties. For example, verbascoside
Planta (2024) 260:132 Page 7 of 24 132

and linarin (Fig. 5), derived from Buddleja scordioides et al. 2022). Of these molecules, noteworthy polyphe-
Kunth (escobilla or butterfly bush), are recognized for their nols including flavonoids, phenolic compounds, tannins,
antioxidant and photoprotective effects. These compounds and stilbenes (Fig. 6). Flavonoids serve as enzyme cofac-
have been evaluated for their potential in formulating effec- tors and play a significant role in the angiogenic process.
tive plant-based sunscreens, demonstrating promising results They exhibit a range of beneficial activities, including anti-
in protecting the skin from UV damage (Acevedo et al. inflammatory, anti-aging, anti-cellulite, and anti-couperose
2005). (anti-rosacea) effects. Additionally, flavonoids demonstrate
moisturizing, softening, and skin-lightening properties.
Aromatic plants as cosmeceutical ingredients Phenolic compounds, particularly phenolic acids, display
anti-tyrosinase activity, stimulating collagen synthesis, and
For millennia, aromatic plants have been valued for their elastin production. They also possess anti-allergic, anti-
ability to promote healthy skin and treat various degenera- inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-aging, and photoprotec-
tive skin conditions (Ribeiro et al. 2015). Consequently, the tive properties, which help prevent UV-induced erythema.
industry increasingly utilizes their extracts, essential oils, Tannins promote wound healing and exhibit antimicrobial,
and phytocompounds as natural alternatives, recognized for anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, and anti-ulcer activities. Fur-
their safety, efficacy, and environmental sustainability (Alves thermore, they enhance tropoelastin synthesis and reduce
et al. 2020). elastase activity. Stilbenes also demonstrate anti-tyrosinase
The evaluation of plants’ chemical composition and activity and influence the post-transcriptional regulation
biological effects is essential to identify their beneficial of melanogenic genes, inhibiting the mRNA expression of
properties. Among the various natural compounds, those tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related proteins 1 and 2, microph-
with antioxidant effects are particularly important for their thalmia transcription factor, and dopachrome tautomerase in
application in the cosmeceutical sector. However, due to human melanocytes (Michalak 2022).
the increasing interest in these products, it is crucial to
assess the extinction risks to promote sustainable use and
the implementation of effective extraction methods (Haz- Phytocompounds isolated from extracts
rati et al. 2024). Furthermore, it is relevant to analyze the with cosmeceutical properties
adaptability of plants to extreme conditions, such as high
salinity, drought, and elevated temperatures. The species that Recent studies highlight glabridin, a prenylated isoflavonoid
demonstrate resilience in these challenging environments are from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) root extract, as a key
considered valuable sources of natural antioxidants (Chek- compound contributing to skin-lightening effects (Hu et al.
roun-Bechlaghem et al. 2019). 2020). In addition to its depigmenting activity, licorice has
Many of the antioxidant compounds identified as cosme- been reported to improve skin wound healing via angiogene-
ceutical ingredients belong to the group of polyphenols, trit- sis increases and collagen deposition (Assar et al. 2021). On
erpenes, steroids, fatty acids, polysaccharides, carotenoids, the other hand, isovitexin, a flavonoid derived from Achillea
and peptides, which are extracted from vegetal material with alpina L., effectively downregulates melanin synthesis, dem-
appropriate solvents (Fuentes et al. 2021; Felix-Cuencas onstrating skin-lightening potential (Shanbhag et al. 2019).

Fig. 5  Chemical structures of

verbascoside and linarin and
their SPF values
132 Page 8 of 24 Planta (2024) 260:132

Fig. 6  Chemical structures of some natural antioxidants

Curcumin, a traditional bioactive component widely used anti-inflammatory, antifibrotic, and angiogenesis activities
as a species and medicine, is a polyphenol isolated mainly (Xu et al. 2021). This polyphenol protects against immune
from Curcuma longa L. rhizomes. The scientific evidence suppression and photocarcinogenesis, as well as DNA dam-
has shown that topical application and its oral intake con- age and erythema formation (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015).
tribute to maintaining skin integrity because it accelerates Further, epigallocatechin gallate possesses moisturizing and
wound healing (Zia et al. 2021; Akbik et al. 2014). There- anti-melanogenesis properties and decreases wrinkle-form-
fore, it is used for acne, atopic dermatitis, iatrogenic derma- ing (Kim 2016).
titis, eczema, psoriasis, vitiligo, photoaging, and other skin Although Vitis vinifera L. (grapes) and Vaccinium cor-
disorders (Vaughn et al. 2016; Vollono et al. 2019). This ymbosum L. (blueberries) are not classified as aromatic
natural pigment exerts protective effects against oxidative species, their fruits possess notable sensory properties.
stress caused by ROS production, peroxidation of lipids, pro- In the cosmeceutical industry, both species are relevant.
tein carbonylation, and mitochondrial permeability transi- Resveratrol or trans-3,4´,5-trihydroxystilbene, is a stilbene
tion. Other positive effects of curcumin include the regula- found mainly in grapes and blueberries fruits, respectively,
tory role of the immune system and cellular senescence (Zia and has been scientifically shown to increase life expec-
et al. 2021). tancy after consumption, earning it the designation of a
The anti-aging effects of epigallocatechin gallate (a poly- “longevity-prolonging agent” (Ortega and Duleba 2015).
phenol found in Camellia sinensis L. or green tea) are espe- This compound is considered a multifunctional cosme-
cially associated with wound-healing stages and its repair ceutical because it exerts anti-aging properties related
mechanisms, which are related to antioxidant, antimicrobial, to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-angiogenic,
Planta (2024) 260:132 Page 9 of 24 132

anti-bacterial against acne vulgaris and anti-cancer effects Chemical structures of p-coumaric acid, glabridin, iso-
due to its capacity for inhibiting cyclooxygenases activ- vitexin, resveratrol, curcumin, and epigallocatechin gallate
ity, modulates tyrosinase activity, and increases collagen are shown in Fig. 7.
I/II production, also inhibits expression of AP-1, MMPs,
NFκB and proinflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β, IL-6, Phytocompounds isolated from essential oils
IL-8, TNF-α, and decreases chronic skin damaged by pho- with cosmeceutical properties
toaging (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015; Ratz-Łyko and Arct
2019). Essential oils are extensively utilized in the cosmeceuti-
Thymus serphyllum Linn. (thymus) and T. vulgaris L. cal industry due to their numerous properties that promote
(garden thyme) are two aromatic species that exert anti- healthy skin, enhancing elasticity and firmness. These ingre-
elastase and anti-inflammatory activities due to containing dients also possess pharmaceutical benefits, making them
thymol, a phenolic monoterpene that has shown anti-aging suitable for treating conditions such as stretch marks, acne,
effects since inhibits elastase enzyme, TNF‐α, and IL‐6 dark spots, and premature skin aging. Additionally, EOs
levels, suppress iNOS and COX‐2 expression, and blocks serve as natural fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, and
the p38 mitogen‐activated protein kinases phosphorylation masking agents. They are primarily obtained from various
(Salehi et al. 2018). plant parts, including flowers (Cananga odorata Hook. F.
Another class of interesting compound are phenylpro- & Thomson or ylang-ylang), leaves (Cymbopogon citratus
panoids. Phenylpropanoids are multifaceted compounds, (DC.) Stapf or lemongrass), fruits (Piper nigrum L. or black
including antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory pepper), peels (Citrus reticulate L. or tangerine), seeds (F.
effects, and photoprotective properties (Neelam et al. vulgare L. or fennel), berries (Juniperus communis L. or
2020). Studies have shown that hydrocinnamic acid, also juniper), bark (Cinnamomum verum J. Presl. or cinnamon),
called p-coumaric acid, obtained from ginseng leaves, roots (Zingiber officinale Roscoe or ginger), rhizomes (Cur-
inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanin content; therefore, cuma longa L. or turmeric), and resin (Commiphora myrrha
it can be useful in hyperpigmentation treatments (Hu et al. (Nees) Engl. or myrrh). Among the EOs of high industrial
2020). value are citrus, floral, lavender, or phyto-essences such as
geraniol/nerol, linalool, citral, and citronellal (Sharmeen
et al. 2021).

Fig. 7  Chemical structures of

O O
some phytocompounds isolated
from plant extracts with cosme- O O
ceutical properties
HO OH
OCH3 OCH3
HO OH
Curcumin
Glabridin
OH
OH

HO O
OH
OH O
OH OH
O O

Epigallocatechin gallate OH OH
HO
OH
HO
Resveratrol
p-coumaric acid
OH

HO O

HO Isovitexin
O
OH OH O
HO
HO
132 Page 10 of 24 Planta (2024) 260:132

The studies demonstrate that appropriate concentra- Extracts and essential oils as photoprotective
tions of monoterpenes in EOs can benefit skin health. agents
For example, EOs derived from the flowering aerial
parts of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don, along with Over the past decade, there has been a significant increase
its phyto-components α-pinene and limonene, exhibit in interest in cosmeceuticals, particularly in photoprotective
anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities (Fraternale development agents as an essential strategy to mitigate the
et al. 2019). Capetti et al. (2021) reported that phyto- signs of aging. In alignment with industry trends, numerous
constituents from Cymbopogon schoenanthus L., Litsea researchers have focused their studies on identifying plant
cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (a recognized skin-whitening agent), extracts and essential oils rich in antioxidant metabolites.
Melissa officinalis L., and Verbena officinalis L. have These natural ingredients are being explored for their poten-
shown anti-tyrosinase potential through bioassay-ori- tial to reduce ROS activity and protect the skin from damage
ented fractionation. In this study, β-myrcene (identified associated with chronic sun exposure. Scientific evidence
in both L. cubeba Lour. Pers. and V. officinalis L. (EOs) supports that these ingredients can function as natural anti-
and (+)-citronellal (from M. officinalis L. EO) enhance oxidants, enhancing sun protection and photostability (Hüb-
tyrosinase inhibitory activity of citral. Combinations of ner et al. 2020).
EOs from Citrus reticulata L. (tangerine), Melaleuca The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) man-
alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (tea tree), Euca- dates spectrophotometric analysis for broad-spectrum pho-
lyptus camaldulensis Dehnh (eucalyptus), and Lavandula toprotective agents, with the SPF being a pivotal parameter.
angustifolia Mill. (lavender) help maintain hydrolipidic SPF measures the effectiveness of a sunscreen in protecting
balance, increasing skin hydration while reducing sebum against UVB rays, with SPF 15, SPF 30, and SPF 50 offering
levels (Infante et al. 2022). Linalyl acetate, isolated from approximately 93%, 97%, and 98% protection, respectively.
the extract and essential oil of Achillea millefolium Linn., This metric is essential for assessing the efficacy of antioxi-
exhibits skin-lightening activity by suppressing melanin dant agents in photoprotective formulations, as it indicates
production (Shanbhag et al. 2019). Additionally, thy- the fraction of solar energy (UV radiation) that reaches the
mol has been shown to alleviate atopic dermatitis asso- protected skin (Strzępek-Gomółka et al. 2021). Examples of
ciated with Staphylococcus aureus (Kwon et al. 2018) plant extracts and essential oils studied for their photoprotec-
and acts against Cutibacterium acnes (Folle et al. 2021). tive properties, along with their corresponding SPF values,
Thymol also mitigates dermal inflammatory infiltrates are presented in Table 1.
and possesses antipruritic effects (Wang et al. 2020).
Furthermore, the anti-inflammatory properties of thyme Extracts and essential oils as multifunctional
EO influence leukocyte migration, which is pivotal to cosmeceutical ingredients
enhancing wound healing (Salehi et al. 2018).
The chemical structures of these monoterpenes are Extracts and essential oils derived from plants contain a
shown in Fig. 8. complex array of bioactive phytoconstituents capable of
activating multiple biological pathways. These pathways
are linked to anti-aging strategies, including antioxidant,

Fig. 8  Chemical structures of CH3 CH3

monoterpenes with potential CH3
CHO
cosmeceutical properties
CH3
CH3
H3C CH3
Alpha-pinene H3C CH2
Citral
Limonene

O
CH2 CH3 CH3 H3C O
CH3
O
OH

H3C CH3 H3C CH3 H3C CH3 H3C CH3

Beta-myrcene Citronellal Thymol Linalyl acetate

Planta (2024) 260:132 Page 11 of 24 132

Table 1  Extracts or essential oils as natural antioxidants and their sun protection factor
Plant species Common name Cosmeceutical properties SPF References

Baccharis antioquensis Killip & Baccharises Photoprotective (PE) 9.10 (Mejía-Giraldo et al. 2021)
Cuatrec.
Calendula officinalis L. Pot marigold Photoprotective (EO) 8.36 (Lohani et al. 2019)
14.84 (Mishra et al. 2012)
Cistus x incanus L. Hairy rockrose Photoprotective, anti-hyperpig- 3.33 (Gaweł-Bęben et al. 2020)
mentation, anti-melanoma (PE)
Cistus ladanifer L. Common gum cistus Photoprotective, anti-hyperpig- 4.37 (Gaweł-Bęben et al. 2020)
mentation, anti-melanoma (PE)
Crataegus pentagyna Waldst. & Small-flowered black hawthorn Photoprotective (PE) 24.47 (Ebrahimzadeh et al. 2014)
Kit. ex Willd.
Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf Lemon tea Photoprotective (EO) 10.00 (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)
Cymbopogon flexuosus (nees ex Lemon grass Photoprotective, antioxidant (EO) 13.40 (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)
steud.) w. watson
Cymbopogon sp. Lemon grass Photoprotective (PE) 6.28 (Kaur and Saraf 2010)
Ginkgo biloba L. Maidenhair tree Photoprotective, antioxidant (PE) 7.06 (Cefali et al. 2019)
Helianthus annuus L. Common sunflower Photoprotective, antioxidant, anti- 6.30 (Banerjee et al. 2019)
inflammatory (PE)
Lippia alba (Mill.) N.E.Br. ex Quick relief Photoprotective (EO) 9.60 (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)
Britton & P.Wilson
Lippia microphylla Benth. Alecrim-pimenta Photoprotective (PE) 26.82 (Nunes et al. 2018)
Lippia origanoides Kunth Wild oregano Photoprotective (EO) 11.70 (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)
(Carvacrol/thymol)
Oncosiphon suffruticosum L. Stinkingweed Photoprotective (EO) 2.29 (Adewinogo et al. 2021)
Pelargonium graveolens L'Hér. Sweet-scented Photoprotective (EO) 6.45 (Lohani et al. 2019)
Pentacalia pulchella (Kunth) Pentacalia Photoprotective (PE) 7.30 (Mejía-Giraldo et al. 2021)
Cuatrec.
Ruta graveolens L. Rue Photoprotective, antioxidant (PE) 5.34 (Cefali et al. 2019)
Schinopsis brasiliensis Engl. Red quebracho Photoprotective (PE) 6.00 (de Lima-Saraiva et al. 2017)
Sphaeranthus indicus L. East Indian globe thistle Photoprotective. Decreases 3.85 (Ahmad et al. 2020)
sebum, erythema, and melanin.
Increases hydration and elastic-
ity (PE)
Tagetes lucida Cav. Winter tarragon Photoprotective, antioxidant (EO) 14.70 (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)

Essential oil EO and plant extract PE

antityrosinase, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, mainly, the anti-inflammatory activity (reduces NO produc-
and photoprotective activities, where beneficial effects on tion and iNOS mRNA synthesis) and photoprotective effect
skin health can be monitored through several properties, (inhibits both COX-2 mRNA-level expression and TNF-α
such as hydration, skin lightening, wound healing, and reju- induced by UVB radiation) (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015;
venation (Shanbhag et al. 2019). Li et al. 2021). Ginseng improves replicative senescence and
Extracts from Panax ginseng C.A.Mey., Glycyrrhiza senescence-associated molecules, as well as melanogenesis-
glabra L., Prosopis cineraria (L.) Druce, Cannabis sativa related proteins (Cho et al. 2021).
L., Sambucus nigra L., Camellia sinensis L., Punica grana- Glycyrrhiza glabra L. is a potent skin-lightening agent
tum L., and other aromatic plants are traditionally used to that inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces UV-induced
treat skin problems and their activities include the activation hyperpigmentation. Therefore, this species is considered a
of different mechanisms, which are mentioned below. disruptor of the pigment production pathway and an anti-
Panax ginseng C.A.Mey. or Ginseng ginseng, Korean or aging agent (Hu et al. 2020). Also, it has shown anti-inflam-
Chinese ginseng, is a plant widely used for its multifunc- matory, antioxidant, anti-acne, antibacterial, antifungal, and
tional activities in skin health care and many chronic dis- dandruff properties, as well as improves epidermal hydration
eases (Hu et al. 2020). It is useful as an antioxidant agent and transepidermal (Juncan et al. 2021).
and is very employed as an anti-aging strategy by the cos- Prosopis cineraria (L.) Druce (Khejri or golden tree”
meceutical industry. Its pharmacological activities include, of the desert) is the most important species in the desert
132 Page 12 of 24 Planta (2024) 260:132

area of Rajasthan, as well as in Afghanistan, Saudi Arabia, reduction of dark spots, wrinkles, and the effects of lighten-
and Pakistan (Pareek et al. 2015). The bark extract from ing the skin; therefore, is a powerful skin photoprotective
golden trees induces skin rejuvenation and has been shown agent (Hu et al. 2020). Green tea supplementation decreases
to exert antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. Also, it enzyme MMP-3 production and increases elastin and colla-
inhibits tyrosinase and lipoxygenase activities. Skin health- gen fibers, which explains the anti-wrinkle effect (Prasanth
promoting effects include depigmentation, and decrease ery- et al. 2019).
thema, melanin, and sebum contents, as well as an increase Punica granatum L. (pomegranate) is considered nowa-
in hydration and elasticity (Mohammad et al. 2018; Imhof days a promising aromatic plant with antioxidant, antimi-
and Leuthard 2021). crobial, and anti-inflammatory effects (Jalali et al. 2021),
Cannabis sativa L. (cannabis or marijuana), and can- which are related to its high content of anthocyanins and
nabinoids isolated from it, have been used as an anti-aging hydrolyzable tannins (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015; Zhao
treatment in hair growth and dermatological disorders such et al. 2021). Pomegranate extract is a UVA-photoprotective
as pruritus, atopic dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, lupus, eczema, agent because it inhibits both keratinocyte proliferation and
nail-patella syndrome, cancer, exerting beneficial effects on apoptosis, reducing UV damage in skin cells (Saewan and
skin by modulation of the endocannabinoid system (Dhad- Jimtaisong 2015), also, restoring the skin glow after sunlight
wal and Kirchhof 2018; Baswan et al. 2020; Gupta and exposure (Michalak et al. 2021). Other important effects are
Talukder 2021). related to hair care since it acts as an anti-lice and antidan-
Capparis spinosa L. (caper bush) is an aromatic spe- druff agent (Bhinge et al. 2021). In traditional medicine,
cies that has been used especially for its moisturizing, anti- pomegranate is used in polyherbal formulations together
erythema properties (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015), and with Matricaria chamomilla flowers for better wound heal-
melanogenesis regulation effect (Matsuyama et al. 2009). ing results (Niknam et al. 2021).
The methanolic extract from flowering buds of it exerts anti- The literature on the therapeutic benefits of aromatic
oxidant activity and reduces UVB-induced skin erythema plants is endless. In this review, the evidence for the cos-
(Bonina et al. 2002). meceutical properties of 65 plant species gathered in 16
Solidago virgaurea L. subsp. Alpestris (solidago or gold- botanical families characterized by being highly fragrant,
enrod) has demonstrated remarkable senolytic activity, i.e., including Annonaceae, Apiaceae, Asteraceae, Burseraceae,
its ability to target and eliminate senescent cells. Research Combretaceae, Cupressaceae, Lamiaceae, Lauraceae, Mal-
indicates that this plant effectively reduces both senescent vaceae, Myrtaceae, Piperaceae, Poaceae, Rosaceae, Ruta-
and papillary phenotypes, thereby improving fibroblast func- ceae, Tamaricaceae, and Zingiberaceae, many of which have
tionality in human skin. As a result, this species plays an a long history of use in traditional medicine are summarizes
important role in mitigating age-related declines in tissue in Table 2. Research-based information on phytochemistry
functionality (Lämmermann et al. 2018). and pharmacology allowed us to gather the beneficial prop-
Allium sativum L. (garlic) is another aromatic plant that erties for the skin offered by some of these plant species and
exerts protective effects on cellular senescence and photo- their possible function within cosmeceutical formulation,
protection on skin cells. This plant has showed decreased noteworthy the antioxidant, anti-aging, and antiphotoag-
MMP-1 protein and mRNA expressions inhibit IL-1β and ing properties, and benefits related to wound healing, skin
IL-6 levels and ameliorates senescence-associated beta- hydration, antimicrobial, and depigmenting activities. Given
galactosidase (SA-β-gal) and Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) activity the complexity of the chemical and structural composition
(Kim 2016). of the compounds present in plant extracts and essential oils,
Sambucus nigra L. (elderberry) is a plant with anti- it is expected that these ingredients in cosmeceutical for-
inflammatory and photoprotective properties, which has mulations show multifunctional effects; therefore, they act
been amply used in treating skin photoaging. Its extract on multiple targets, exerting more than one bioactivity that
decreases MMP-1 expression, MAPK/AP-1, and NFκB enhances the skincare benefits.
inhibition. Also, it blocks extracellular matrix degradation, Although many plant-derived ingredients contribute to
increases oxidative defense capacity by improving Nrf2/ formulation development that improves skin health and
HO-1 signaling, and promotes procollagen type I synthesis appearance, several molecules can activate mechanisms that
because it enhances TGF-β signaling activation (Mota et al. induce undesirable responses, manifested in allergic reac-
2021; Lin et al. 2019). tions, including contact dermatitis and phototoxicity, pos-
Camellia sinensis L. (green tea) is a potent antioxidant ing risks to human health (Ahsan 2019). Some examples of
and anti-inflammatory agent. Water extracts from green tea allergen molecules have been mainly identified in the Aster-
are recognized for inhibiting tyrosinase activity and exert- aceae, Brassicaceae, Lamiaceae, Lauraceae, Myrtaceae,
ing chelating properties at its active site, also for inhibiting and Rutaceae families, and belong to the coumarins, furo-
melanogenesis. Its anti-aging properties are related to the coumarins (Alessandrello et al. 2021), terpenes, quinones,
Table 2  Cosmeceutical properties observed in extractives derived from aromatic plant species
Plant species Common name Mechanism of action Bioactivity References

Annonaceae
Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook.f. Ylang ylang ⊥Melanogenesis Radiance, mattifying, regenerating, (Matsumoto et al. 2014; Georgiev
& Thomson antioxidant, anti-pollution et al. 2018)
Planta (2024) 260:132

Apiaceae
Anethum graveolens L. Dill Modulator of melanogenesis Skin whitening (Taddeo et al. 2019)
Angelica archangelica L. Angelica ⊥MMPs, ⊥Mitogen-activated Photoprotective, anti-aging (Sun et al. 2016b)
protein kinase signaling pathways,
⊥collagen degradation
Apium graveolens L. Celery ↑Skin reepithelialization, ↑fibroblast Skin regeneration, atopic dermatitis, (Prakoso et al. 2020)
proliferation, ↑cytokeratin (CK)-17 methicillin-resistant Staphylococ-
expression, ↓percentage of the cus aureus (MRSA)-associated
wound area, inflammatory cell skin infections
infiltration, ↓bacterial colonization
in skin wound tissue
Centella asiatica L. Urb. Gotu Kola ↓Oxidative damage in dermal Antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflam- (Juncan et al. 2021; Buranasudja et al.
fibroblasts, ↓MMP-9 expres- matory, ↑collagen synthesis, stimu- 2021)
sion, ↓breakdown of collagen by lates the fibroblast proliferation,
MMP-9 anti-cellulite effect, ↑epidermal
barrier function
Coriandrum sativum L. Coriander ⊥Activity of AP-1, ↓MMP-1, ↑pro- Photoprotective (Hwang et al. 2014)
collagen type I
Daucus carota L. Carrot seed – Astringent, vulnerary, anti-inflam- (Gilca et al. 2018)
matory, maturative, analgesic,
depurative, anti-aging, tissue
regenerative
Foeniculum vulgare Mill. Sweet fennel ↑Collagen, ↑elastin, ↑TGF-β1, Photoprotective, anti-aging (Sun et al. 2016a)
⊥MMPs production, ↓ROS, ↓LDH
by promoting the nuclear amount
of Nrf2, ↑cytoprotective antioxi-
dants such as GSH
Pimpinella anisum L. Aniseed Modulator of melanogenesis Skin whitening (Taddeo et al. 2019)
Asteraceae
Achillea millefolium Linn. Common yarrow ↓Atopic dermatitis-like symptoms, Anti-inflammatory effects on atopic (Ngo et al. 2020)
↓epidermal thickening, ↓transepi- dermatitis-like skin lesions, anti-
dermal water loss allergic
Arnica montana L. Mountain arnica, mountain tobacco – Anti-inflammatory (Juncan et al. 2021)
Page 13 of 24 132
Table 2  (continued)
132

Plant species Common name Mechanism of action Bioactivity References

Calendula officinalis L. Pot marigold ↑Collagen and non-collagenous Antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, skin regen- (Georgiev et al. 2018; Juncan et al.
proteins, ↑collagen organization in eration, deep hydration, anti-aging, 2021; Mishra et al. 2012; Aro et al.
the initial phase of healing skin burns, anti-hyperpigmentation, 2015))
Page 14 of 24

photoprotective, antimicrobial,
anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, anti-
psoriatic, anti-callus
Eclipta prostrata (L.) L. False daisy ⊥Tyrosinase activity Antioxidant, depigmenting, photo- (Juncan et al. 2021)
protective, hair revitalizing
Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Immortelle ⊥Arachidonic acid metabolism and Anti-erythematous, photoprotective, (Sharmeen et al. 2021; Fraternale
Don other pro-inflammatory mediators, anti-aging, regenerating, depig- et al. 2019; Viegas et al. 2014))
⊥collagenase, ⊥elastase menting
Helichrysum odoratissimum L. Impepho, liquorice plant, everlasting ⊥Inflammatory skin disorder by Anti-bacterial, anti-acne (De Canha et al. 2021)
acne vulgaris (acne), exerts
anti-bacterial properties against
Cutibacterium acnes
Leontopodium alpinum Cass. Edelweiss Positive regulation of the develop- Anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, (Cho et al. 2020)
mental process, programmed cell moisturizer, photoprotective,
death, keratinization, and cornifi- soothing, repairing, anti-aging
cation forming skin barriers
Matricaria chamomilla L. Chamomile Repairs the stratum corneum and Anti-inflammatory, wound healing, (Juncan et al. 2021; Jadoon et al.
improves the moisture contents in reduces transepithelial water loss, 2015))
human skin roughness, decreases scaliness,
increases smoothness, antioxidant,
anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, treatment
of eczema
Tagetes lucida Cav. Winter tarragon ↓ROS Photoprotective, antioxidant (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)
Tanacetum parthenium (L.) Schultz Tansy ↓ROS, ↑endogenous antioxidant, Photoprotective (Martin et al. 2008)
Bip. ↓DNA damage, ↑DNA repair
enzymes
Burseraceae
Boswellia serrata Roxb. Indian frankincense – Moisturizing, regenerative, antioxi- (Georgiev et al. 2018)
dant, soothing
Commiphora myrrha (Nees) Engl. Myrrh – Anti-aging, energizing (Georgiev et al. 2018)
Combretaceae
Combretum apiculatum Sond. Red bushwillow ↓ROS Antioxidant (Lawal et al. 2017)
Cupressaceae
Juniperus communis L. Juniper or ripe berries ↑Antioxidant capacity Protective, anti-pollution, antioxi- (Georgiev et al. 2018)
dant, anti-inflammatory
Lamiaceae
Coleus Forskohlii (Willd.) Briq. Forskohlii, makandi or kaffir potato ↓ROS Anti-fat, anti-edema, antioxidant, (Georgiev et al. 2018)
detoxifying
Planta (2024) 260:132
Table 2  (continued)
Plant species Common name Mechanism of action Bioactivity References

Lavandula angustifolia Mill. Lavender ↑NF-κB, ↑JAK/STAT, ↑IFN-γ, Anti-psoriasis (Koycheva et al. 2021)
↑IL-17α, ↑IL-22, ⊥PI3K, ⊥AKT
Lavandula stoechas Lam. French lavender ⊥Human red blood cells hemolysis Anti-inflammatory (Boukhatem et al. 2020)
Planta (2024) 260:132

(HRBC), ⊥hypotonicity-induced
lysis of HRBC membrane
Marrubium vulgare L. White horehound or common ↓ROS Antioxidant, wound healing (Amri et al. 2017)
horehound
Mentha x piperita L. Peppermint, aerial parts ↓ROS Soothing, antioxidant, lightening (Georgiev et al. 2018)
Ocimum basilicum L. Basil, flowering herb ↓ROS Reduce hair loss, inhibit 5α- reduc- (Georgiev et al. 2018)
tase activity, stimulate dermal
papilla cells, anti-inflammatory
Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton Beefsteak plant DNA repair, activation of the Anti-aging, antimicrobial, soothing, (Georgiev et al. 2018; Lee and Park
MAPK/ERK pathway, and cell photoprotective, wound healing 2021; Kim et al. 2021))
cycle progression to the S and
G2/M phases
Plectranthus grandidentatus Big-teeth coleus ↓ROS, ⊥tyrosinase, ⊥collagenase, Antioxidant, depigmenting (Andrade et al. 2021)
(Gürke) ⊥elastase
Rosmarinus officinalis L. Rosemary ↓ROS, ↓STAT3 activation Antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-wrin- (Juncan et al. 2021; Yeo et al. 2019;
kle, increases elasticity, firmness, Nobile et al. 2021)
moisturization, transepidermal
water loss, lightens dark spots,
anti-inflammatory, photoprotec-
tive, wound healing
Thymus serphyllum Linn. Wild thyme ↓ROS Antioxidant, antimicrobial, anal- (Jovanović et al. 2022)
gesic,
stimulant, diaphoretic, antispas-
modic, and anti-inflammatory
Thymus vulgaris L. Thymus ↓MMP-1, ↓MMP-3, ↓IL-6, Anti-wrinkle, decreases epidermal (Sun et al. 2017)
↓phosphor-ERK, ↓ phosphor-p38, thickness, photoprotective
↓ phosphor-JNK, ↑TGF-β1, ↑pro-
collagen type 1, ↑GSH
Upregulated the PPAR-γ expression, Stimulates adipogenesis, anti-aging, (Caverzan et al. 2021)
increases adiponectin production, anti-wrinkle, expression lines, face
and stimulated the adipogenesis oval remodeling
process
Lauraceae
Cinnamomum verum J. Presl. Cinnamon Enhancing re-epithelialization and Wound healing (Daemi et al. 2019)
keratin biosynthesis
Laurus nobilis L. Laurel ↓C. acnes-mediated proinflamma- Immunological disorders, anti- (Lee et al. 2019)
tory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, and inflammatory
NLRP3), ⊥NF-κB in response to
C. acnes
Page 15 of 24 132
Table 2  (continued)
132

Plant species Common name Mechanism of action Bioactivity References

Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. Litsea ⊥Tyrosinase activity Anti-aging, depigmenting (Imhof and Leuthard 2021)
Malvaceae
Page 16 of 24

Althaea officinalis L. Common marsh-mallow Stimulated cell vitality of epithe- Tissue regeneration (Deters et al. 2010)
lial cells, up-regulation of genes
related to cell adhesion proteins,
growth regulators, extracellular
matrix, cytokine release, and
apoptosis
Azadirachta indica A.Juss. Neem tree Immunomodulatory and antioxidant Anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, (Singh et al. 2021)
activities antioxidant, antiseptic, anti-acne
Gossypium herbaceum L. Levant cotton ↓ROS Photoprotective, protection against (Georgiev et al. 2018)
atmospheric pollutants and heavy
metals, antioxidant
Theobroma cacao L. Cocoa Downregulation of inflammatory Anti-aging, firming, regenerating, (Skarupova et al. 2020)
markers: IgE and chemokine. restructuring, anti-inflammatory,
skin hydration, photoprotective
Myrtaceae
Melaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Tea tree – Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory; (Michalak 2022; Infante et al. 2022;
Betche) Cheel improves skin barrier and mor- Capetti et al. 2020))
phologic skin characteristics;
moisturizer, decreases sebum
levels; broad-spectrum antibacte-
rial, anti-acne
Melaleuca leucadendra (L.) L. Cajeput ↑Antioxidant capacity, ⊥COX-2 Antioxidant, photoprotective, wound (Silva et al. 2020; de Assis et al.
expression, ↓DNA-damage healing, antimicrobial 2020))
Myrtus communis L. Myrtle or true myrtle ↑Glutathione, ↑SOD, ↑CAT, tissue Antioxidant (Ozcan et al. 2019)
factor activities, nitric oxide, ↓skin
malondialdehyde level
Syzygium aromaticum (L.) Merr. y Clove ↑Antioxidant capacity, ↓MMP- Anti-wrinkle, anti-thickness, antioxi- (Hwang et al. 2018)
L.M.Perry 1, ↓MMP-3, ↓IL-6, ↓p-c-fos, dant, moisturizer, photoprotective
↓p-c-jun, ↓NFκB, ↓IkB-α, ↑Nrf2,
↑HO-1, ↑NQO-1, ↑p-Smad 2/3,
↑TGF-β1
Piperaceae
Pipper nigrum L. Black pepper ↓ROS, ↓lipid peroxidation, ↓NFκB, Photoprotective (Verma et al. 2017)
↑IκBα
Poaceae
Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf Lemongrass ↓ROS Anti-erythema, anti-edema, photoag- (Costa et al. 2016)
ing
Cymbopogon flexuosus (nees ex Lemongrass ↓ROS Photoprotective, antioxidant (Caballero-Gallardo et al. 2022)
steud.) w. watson
Planta (2024) 260:132
Table 2  (continued)
Plant species Common name Mechanism of action Bioactivity References

Cymbopogon Martini (Roxb.) Will. Palmarosa ⊥Growth of T. mentagrophytes and Anti-microbial (Gemeda et al. 2018)
Watson T. rubrum (above 1% of EOs), and
against M. canis and T. verrucosum
Planta (2024) 260:132

(4% EOs)
Vetiveria zizanioides L. Vetiver ↓tyrosinase expression, ↓oxidative Depigmenting (Peng et al. 2014)
stress
Rosaceae
Agrimonia eupatoria L. Hurchsteeples Anti-inflammatory, astringent, anti- Wound healing (Ghaima 2013)
bacterial
Crataegus laevigata (Poir) DC. Midland hawthorn Regulates MAPKs/AP-1, NFκB, and Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory (Nguyen et al. 2021)
NFAT Signaling Pathways
Fragaria x ananassa Duch. Strawberry ↓ROS, ↓NF-κB, ↓p-Iκβα, TNF-α, Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015; Gas-
IL-6, IL-1β, ↑Nrf2, ↑CAT, ↑HO-1. photoprotective parrini et al. 2017)
Blocks collagen destruction and
inflammatory responses via NF-κB
and MAPK, ↑Cellular viability,
↓UVA radiation-induced DNA
Prunus persica (L.) Batsch Peach ⊥Elastase activity, ⊥collagenase Anti-wrinkle, antioxidant (Mostafa et al. 2021)
activity, ⊥tyrosinase activity
Rosa damascena Mill. Damascus rose or rose of Castile ↓ROS, ⊥hyaluronidase, ⊥elastase, Anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-mela- (Sklirou et al. 2021)
⊥tyrosinase nogenic, photoprotective
Rosa gallica L. Apothecary rose Prevents UVB-mediated skin wrin- Photoprotective, anti-aging (Jo et al. 2021)
kle formation and loss of collagen/
keratin fibers, ↓UVB-induced
COX-2, ↓ MMP-1
Rosa rugosa Beach rose ↓ROS, ⊥elastase activity Anti-aging (Chae et al. 2021)
Rubus idaeus L. Red raspberry Blocks UVB-induced MMP produc- Photoprotective, moisturizer, (Georgiev et al. 2018; Gao et al.
tion, promotes type I procollagen improves ceramides production 2018))
synthesis (⊥MAPK/AP-1, ⊥NF-
κβ, ↑TGF-β/Smad,↑Nrf2
Rubus fruticosus L. Blackberry ↓IL-6, ↓TNF-α, ↓ERK ½, ↓P38, Photoprotective, anti-inflammatory (Divya et al. 2015)
↓JNK ½, ↓MKK4, ↓PGE2, ↓iNOS,
↓NFκB, ↓IκBα
Rutaceae
Aegle marmelos L. Bilwa or bael Keratinocyte cells migration by reg- Wound healing (Azmi et al. 2019)
ulation of Akt signaling, β-catenin,
and extracellular signal-regulated
kinase (ERK) pathways
Citrus reticulate L. Tangerine ↓ROS, anti-bacterial Wound healing (Ishfaq et al. 2021)
Page 17 of 24 132
Table 2  (continued)
132

Plant species Common name Mechanism of action Bioactivity References

Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck Sweet orange Mediates downregulation of MMP1 Photoprotective, anti-aging (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015; Amer
expression, ↑Collagen, ↑SOD, ↓ et al. 2021)
PGE2, ↓COX2, ↓JNK, ↓MDA,
Page 18 of 24

↓elastin, protects against DNA

cleavage, ↑antioxidant, ⊥xanthine
oxidase activity, ⊥lipoperoxidative
activity
Citrus unshiu Marc. Satsuma mandarin ⊥LPS-induced iNOS, ⊥COX-2 Moisturizer, anti-inflammatory (Kim et al. 2019)
proteins, and their mRNAs. ↓TNF-
α, ↓IL-6, and PGE2 secretion.
Induces hyaluronic acid production
and Filaggrin and SPT expression
Tamaricaceae
Tamarix Africana Poir. African tamarisk ↓ROS Antioxidant (Chekroun-Bechlaghem et al. 2019)
Zingiberaceae
Curcuma longa L. Turmeric ⊥NFкB, ⊥MAPK, ↓iNOS, ↓COX-2, Anti-wrinkles, photoprotective, emo- (Saewan and Jimtaisong 2015)
⊥TNF-α, ⊥mRNA tional hydration manager, modula-
tor of brain-skin connection
Zingiber officinale Roscoe Ginger ↓ROS, ↓COX-2, ↓iNOS, ↓IL-6, ↓IL- Astringent, firming, mattifying, (Georgiev et al. 2018)
10, ↓TNF-α, ↓p-ERK, ↓p-JNK, moisturizing, antioxidant, photo-
↓p-38, ↑Nrf2, ↑HO-1 protective

⊥. Inhibition. ↓. Decrease. ↑. Increase

Planta (2024) 260:132
Planta (2024) 260:132 Page 19 of 24 132

Fig. 9  Chemical structures

of natural allergens found in
aromatic plant species

alpha-methylene gamma-butyrolactones, phenol derivatives, lifestyle habits, among others, that taken together, acceler-
and miscellaneous structures, among them isothiocyanates, ate skin aging causing wrinkles, spots, freckles, dehydra-
disulfides, and polyacetylene derivatives (Esser et al. 2019). tion, loss of healing capacity, and other signs of skin aging.
Some representative examples of natural allergens widely The scientific evidence indicates that phytochemicals and
distributed in nature are hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene aromatic plants traditionally used as cosmetics are excellent
carboxaldehyde, cinnamal, alpha-hexyl-cinnamal, carvone, alternatives to cosmeceutical formulations.
and eugenol, found in Dipteryx odorata (Aubl.) Willd.
(Fabaceae), Cinnamomum verum J. Presl. (Lauraceae),
Author contribution Conceptualization, K.C.-G. and P.Q.-R.; meth-
Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Mentha spicata odology, K.C.-G. and P.Q.-R.; formal analysis, P.Q.-R., K.C.-G. and
L. (Lamiaceae), and Syzygium aromaticum (L.) Merr. & J.O.-V.; investigation, J.O.-V. and P.Q.-R.; resources, K.C.-G. and J.O.-
L.M.Perry (Myrtaceae), respectively. Their chemical struc- V.; data curation, P.Q.-R.; writing—original draft preparation, P.Q.-R.;
tures are shown in Fig. 9. writing—review and editing, P.Q.-R., K.C.-G. and J.O.-V.; supervision,
K.C.-G. and J.O.-V.; project administration, K.C.-G. and J.O.-V.; fund-
Finally, in response to the demand for cosmeceutical ing acquisition, K.C.-G. and J.O.-V. All authors have read and agreed to
products, the industry is actively exploring and develop- the published version of the manuscript.” authors have read and agreed
ing different innovative strategies to prevent and reverse to the published version of the manuscript.
the signs of aging (Lee 2016). The key approaches include
Funding Open Access funding provided by Colombia Consortium.
senescent cell elimination, increasing antioxidant intake, This research was funded by Vice-Presidency for Research of the Uni-
enhancing autophagy, implementing stem cell therapies, and versity of Cartagena (Grant: 077-2023) and the Ministry of Science,
biotechnological strategies (e.g., chromatin organization and Technology, and Innovation (Minciencias) from the Francisco José de
microRNAs) to alter plant secondary metabolism allowing Caldas Fund (Grant RC-112721-416-2023).
for the overproduction of desired phytochemicals for cos- Data availability The data presented in this study are available in
metic applications (Gandhi et al. 2015; Oger et al. 2019). manuscript.

Declarations
Conclusions
Conflict of interest The authors declare that there are no conflicts of
interest.
Aromatic plants are an infinite source of bioactive molecules
for the development of innovative cosmeceutical strate- Open Access This article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attri-
gies. The natural antioxidants biosynthesized by plants as bution 4.0 International License, which permits use, sharing, adapta-
tion, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long
a defense mechanism against cell damage caused by oxida- as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source,
tive stress are appropriate ingredients to protect human skin provide a link to the Creative Commons licence, and indicate if changes
against the devastation of these cells due to chronological were made. The images or other third party material in this article are
aging, which many times is accelerated by sunlight and other included in the article’s Creative Commons licence, unless indicated
otherwise in a credit line to the material. If material is not included in
external factors such as weather, exposure to pollutants,
132 Page 20 of 24 Planta (2024) 260:132

the article’s Creative Commons licence and your intended use is not polyglucoside emulsion cream for topical applications. J Cos-
permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds the permitted use, you will met Dermatol 18(2):628–637
need to obtain permission directly from the copyright holder. To view a Baswan SM, Klosner AE, Glynn K, Rajgopal A, Malik K, Yim S,
copy of this licence, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/. Stern N (2020) Therapeutic potential of cannabidiol (CBD)
for skin health and disorders. Clin Cosmet Invest Dermatol
1:927–942
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