TEKSTİL VE KONFEKSİYON

Vol: 29, No: 3

DOI: 10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.470805

Analyzing Some of the Dual-Core Yarn Spinning Parameters on

Yarn and Various Fabric Properties
Sevim Hümeyra Çelikkan Aydoğdu, Demet Yılmaz *

Suleyman Demirel University, Engineering Faculty, Textile Engineering Department, West Campus, Isparta, Turkey

Corresponding Author: Demet Yılmaz, [email protected].

ABSTRACT
ARTICLE HISTORY
Nowadays, in order to improve some of the properties of core-spun yarns, a new type of core-spun
Received: 22.10.2018
yarn called as dual-core has been developed. In literature, there are limited studies and hence findings
Accepted: 13.02.2019
about dual-core yarns. Therefore, in this study, dual-core yarns were produced with three different
sheath fibres (viscose, cotton and cotton/Tencel blended fibres) and two different core filament linear
density (50 and 70 denier) having three different yarn counts (12/1 Ne, 16/1 Ne and 20/1 Ne). Woven
and knitted fabrics were manufactured and yarn quality parameters and some of the fabric properties KEYWORDS
such as fabric pilling behaviour, breaking and bursting strength, breaking elongation and bending Dual-core yarn, core-spun
rigidity were investigated. Therefore, at the end of study, it was possible to investigate the effect of yarn, elastic fabrics, Spandex
sheath fibre type, yarn count and core filament linear density on yarn and fabric properties of dual-
core yarns.

1. INTRODUCTION Core filaments such as soft (Elastane) and hard material

(PES, PA etc.) are coated with staple natural or synthetic
In recent years, usage of elastic materials and demands to
filaments and hence resultant yarn is composed of dual core
elastic fabrics and garments have been increased due to
filaments such as PET+Elastane or PA+Elastane, and
their stretch and recovery capability and thus wear comfort
sheath fibres. In particular, elastic-soft and semi elastic-
and fitness compared to common textile products [1].
hard core filaments are used in dual-core yarn production to
Elastic materials under different names such as Lycra,
enhance high elasticity obtained by elastic component and
Spandex, T400, PBT etc. are widely used in casual apparel
high recovering, stability and low shrinkage obtained by
products, denim fabrics, sportswear, medical textiles etc. to
semi elastic component to dual-core yarns.
provide the stretchability and elasticity. One commonly
used method to produce elastic woven or knitted fabrics is Core-spun yarns have been used for many years and
core-spun yarn spinning technology. In core-spun yarn therefore the effects of the elastic core, the sheath fibres for
spinning method, any type of elastic filament specially covering the yarn and various spinning parameters on
placed to centre of the yarn is covered and wrapped by structures and properties of core-spun yarns were
short staple fibres such as cotton, wool or man-made fibres. investigated in many studies. However, textile producers
Produced yarn is called as core-spun and consisting of core and researchers have newly focused on dual-core spun
filament and sheath parts. Core-spun yarn production yarns and hence there are a few works about the dual-core
method makes possible to optimally benefit the features of spun yarns [1-4]. Hua et al. [1] worked on the development
two different components in the same structure. In order to of elastic core-spun yarn containing a mix of Spandex and
improve the properties of core-spun yarns, particularly polyethylene terephthalate/polytrimethylene terephthalate
recovery, stability and dimensional change, a new type of (PET/PTT) bi-component filament as a core material to
core-spun yarn called as dual-core yarn has been developed. obtain better elastic property. Spandex and PET/PTT bi-

To cite this article: Çelikkan Aydoğdu SH, Yılmaz D. 2019. Analyzing some of the dual-core yarn spinning parameters on yarn and
various fabric properties Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 29(3), 197-207.

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019 197

component filaments were covered with cotton fibres on a the dual-core yarns to understand the structure and features
modified ring-spinning machine with a core spinning of this yarn type. In this study, we are interested in the
attachment. The experimental results indicated that dual- identification of the effect of various process parameters on
core yarns have much lower yarn stress decay as well as dual-core yarn and some of the fabric properties. Dual-core
lower hairiness, CVm and higher elongation values yarns having three different yarn counts were produced
compared to the core-spun yarns using only Spandex core with three different sheath fibres and two different core
filament. In addition, it was found that Spandex count filament linear densities. This study provides a better
significantly affects the breaking elongation and stress understanding the effect of sheath fibres, core filament and
decay of dual-core yarns and elongation of the yarns yarn finenesses on dual-core yarns. In addition, majority of
increases with the increase of the draw ratio of Spandex. the studies reported in the literature has focused on the
Kılıç [2] and Tantawy et al. [3], in their studies, fed dual- usage of cotton fibre as a sheath fibre for core-spun yarns
core filaments in two different ways to the yarn centre. composed of single [5-24] and dual core filaments [1-4].
Kılıç [2] welded PET and Spandex filaments by Present study was therefore undertaken to investigate the
intermingling process and positioned the combined effect of different sheath fibre types on dual-core yarns.
filaments in front roller nip in terms of a standard V-
grooved guide roller under certain tension (3.5). In second 2. MATERIAL AND METHOD
part of the study, PET and Spandex filaments were fed
2.1. Material
separately by similar guide roller under certain tension (for
3.5 for PET, 1.08 for Spandex). Intermingled and separately In the study, it was produced dual-core spun yarns having
fed PET and Spandex core filaments were covered by 12/1 Ne, 16/1 Ne and 20/1 Ne yarn counts on Merlin
cotton fibres and multicomponent dual-core yarns were conventional ring spinning machine. Cotton (100%),
obtained. Kılıç [2] determined that production methods viscose (100%) and cotton/Tencel fibre blend (50/50%)
(core-spun and dual-core) have statistically significant were used as a sheath part of the dual-core spun yarns.
influence on yarn properties. In addition, it was indicated Fibre properties were given in Table 1. As a core material,
that production parameters such as twist, Elastane pre-draft X55 and Spandex filaments were used together for dual-
also statistically affect the elasticity and growth values of core spun yarns. Linear densities of core filaments were 50
woven fabrics. Tantawy et al. [3] studied the effect dual- and 70 denier for X55, and 70 denier for Spandex. Spandex
core weft yarns with different yarn counts on the pilling fibre, one of the most important thermo-plastic elastomeric
properties of denim fabric (3/1 Z twill) and found that dual- fibres being commercially produced worldwide, is made
core yarn type and yarn count have influence on fabric with long chain synthetic polymers comprised of mostly
pilling property. Ertaş et al. [4] produced 16/1 Ne dual-core segmented polyurethanes [25]. X55 is a Spandex fibre
yarns for the weft thread using 77 dtex PES and 78 dtex commercialized by Xanadu firm to provide crimp and
Spandex core filaments and cotton wrapping fibres. In their stretch properties to material.
study, it was determined that the construction has a much
more impact on the fabric width and thus on the unit weight Similar to core-spun yarn, during the dual-core spun yarn
properties than the elasticity ratio. As the density increases, production, X55 and Spandex (X55+Spandex) core
filaments were supplied separately under control of a
the elasticity value, permanent elongation and depth of the
positive feed roller system and sent to the V-grooved guide
colour have been found out to decrease substantially due to
roller. And both core materials composed of X55+Spandex
more rigidity of the fabric resulted from higher fabric
filaments were wrapped by cotton, viscose and
density. It was determined that the ratio between the
cotton/Tencel covering fibres. During dual-core yarn
elasticity and the permanent elongation values is not
production, core filaments were given to the drafting
affected from the density changes, and remains at the same
system under specific tension (draft), and the values were
value in almost all the fabrics. In addition, permanent
1.1 for first type of core filament (X55) and 3.63 for second
elongation value is superior at the same elasticity value
type of core filament (Spandex). Production parameters for
compared to the conventional Elastane core wefts. As
dual-core yarns were that roving count was about 0.81-0.87
reported above, there are a few studies and findings about Ne, αe was 4.0, spindle speed was 10500-11000 rpm [26].
Table 1. Fibre properties

Properties Cotton Viscose Tencel

Fibre length 28.62 mm 38 mm 38 mm
Fineness Mic 4.22 1.3 dtex 1.3 dtex
Maturity 97.2 % - -
Tenacity 30.58 g/tex - -
Colour grade 33-44 - -

198 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019

2.2. Method parameters and viscose, cotton, cotton/Tencel sheath fibres
were shown by V, C and C/T while 12 Ne, 16/1 Ne and
Dual-core spun yarn samples were conditioned under
20/1 Ne yarn counts were displayed by 12, 16 and 20,
standard atmospheric conditions of 20±1°C and 65±2%
respectively. The results of ANOVA tests were shown in
R.H. for 24 h. Seven cops were tested for each yarn
Tables 2-3.
properties and one test was done on each cops. Yarn
evenness and imperfections was tested on Uster Tester 5 at Yarn unevenness
400 m/min test speed. Mechanical properties of the yarns
were measured on Uster Tensorapid 4. To analyse the Yarn unevenness results are shown in Figure 1. According
fabric properties, yarn samples were used as a weft yarn to CVm values, dual-core yarns having viscose and
and woven fabrics were produced having plain weave and cotton/Tencel fibre sheath fibres have significantly lower
30 cm*150 cm dimensions. Fabric density values were 39 mass variation values than the yarns having cotton sheath
warp/cm*18 weft/cm for 12/1 Ne, 33 warp/cm*19 weft/cm fibres (Table 2). Higher yarn unevenness of cotton sheath
for 16/1 Ne, and 33 warp/cm*21 weft/cm for 20/1 Ne yarn fibres corresponds to the results in the core-spun yarns
counts. Pilling behaviour of all fabrics was tested on the having single elastic core filament [26] and other yarn
Nu-Martindale Abrasion Tester according to TS EN ISO types. Erdumlu et al. [27] and Kılıç and Okur [28] studied
12945-2 test method. Fabric strength and breaking the effect of cotton fibres, viscose rayon fibres and its
elongation was tested according to TS EN ISO 13934- blends on ring, compact and vortex yarn properties and it
1/1999 on Lloyd LR5K Plus electronic tensile strength was indicated that an increasing ratio of regenerated
machine. Due to limited fabric sample, tensile properties of cellulosic fibre content in the blend decreases unevenness
woven fabrics were tested for only weft direction. In the and the lowest CVm value was found for 33/67% cotton-
study, it was also obtained knitted samples from the dual- regenerated cellulosic fibre blend [28]. Therefore, findings
core spun yarns and fabric density values varied as 110-113 for the effect of different sheath fibre types on CVm values
loop/cm2 for 12/1 Ne, 121-125 loop/cm2 for 16/1 Ne, 124- of dual-core yarns are in agreement with that of the other
128 loop/cm2 for 20/1 Ne yarn counts. Bursting strength of yarn types. The reason for CVm results may be attributed to
the fabrics was tested according to ISO 13938-2. Three fibre length and high variation in cotton fibre length
samples were tested for tensile properties of woven and compared to viscose and cotton/Tencel fibres. When the
knitted fabrics. Bending rigidity of the woven fabric yarn becomes finer, unevenness values of the yarns tend to
samples was also analysed according to ASTM D 1388-96 increase as a result of decreasing the number of fibres in
test method by WIRA bending rigidity tester. Three yarn structure as reported in other yarn types. Erdumlu et
samples of both of warp and weft direction were tested for al. [27] reported that mass variation of conventional ring,
each fabric and the average values were determined. OE-rotor and vortex increases with finer yarn counts.
Örtlek and Ülkü [29] also indicated higher unevenness of
All the tests were carried out on the same testers and test finer core-spun vortex yarns than that of the coarser ones.
results were analysed statistically by SPSS 16.0 statistical As far as the effect of X55 core filament linear density is
software to determine any significant differences. ANOVA concerned, yarn unevenness results change depending on
tests were used for two-way analysis of variance for the yarn count and sheath fibre types. CVm values mostly
analysis of the production parameters, multiple-range test decrease with coarser core filament for 12 Ne and 16 Ne
LSD method for the comparison of sheath fibre types yarn counts. However, there is a different trend in 20 Ne
(Table 2) and t-test for the comparison of yarn counts dual-core yarns sheathed with viscose and cotton/Tencel
(Table 3-4) and ANOVA analyses were performed for fibres and unevenness of the yarns increases with coarser
α=0.05 significance level [26]. In the tables, yarn counts of core filament. This trend is consistent with the results of
12 Ne, 16/1 Ne and 20/1 Ne were indicated by 12, 16 and core-spun yarns and unevenness of core-spun yarns having
20, respectively. viscose and cotton/Tencel wrapping fibres increases with
3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS coarser core filament in 30 Ne and 40 Ne yarn counts [26].
As the core filament is getting coarser, for finer yarn counts
3.1. Yarn Properties in core-spun yarns having single or dual core filaments,
In this part, it was given the properties of dual-core spun core filament can be not covered uniformly with less
yarns produced with 50/70 and 70/70 X55+Spandex core number of sheath fibres and this case may lead to higher
filaments and cotton, viscose and cotton/Tencel sheath CVm values.
fibres. The results were coded depending on production

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019 199

 Table 2. ANOVA LSD test results for dual-core yarn and fabric properties produced with different sheath fibres and yarn counts

Property Sheath fibres Sig. Property Sheath fibres Sig.

Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.028*
Viscose Woven- Viscose
CVm12 Cotton/Tencel 0.419 Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Strength12
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.057
Viscose Woven- Viscose
CVm16 Cotton/Tencel 0.933 Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Strength 16
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.095
Viscose Woven- Viscose
CVm20 Cotton/Tencel 0.001* Cotton/Tencel 0.115
Strength20
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.009*
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.000*
Viscose Woven- Viscose
Thick12 Cotton/Tencel 0.840 Cotton/Tencel 0.002*
Elongation12
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.001*
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.009*
Viscose Woven- Viscose
Thick16 Cotton/Tencel 0.904 Cotton/Tencel 0.095
Elongation16
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.001*
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.008*
Viscose Woven- Viscose
Thick20 Cotton/Tencel 0.658 Cotton/Tencel 0.059
Elongation20
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.163
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.009*
Viscose Knitted- Viscose
Neps12 Cotton/Tencel 0.868 Cotton/Tencel 0.002*
Bursting12
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.160
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.000*
Viscose Knitted- Viscose
Neps16 Cotton/Tencel 0.729 Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Bursting16
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000* Cotton 0.175
Viscose Knitted- Viscose
Neps20 Cotton/Tencel 0.667 Cotton/Tencel 0.006*
Bursting20
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000* Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.001*
Cotton 0.000*
Viscose
H12 Cotton/Tencel 0.487
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.001*
Cotton 0.001*
Viscose
H16 Cotton/Tencel 0.520
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.003*
Cotton 0.000*
Viscose
H20 Cotton/Tencel 0.073
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.015*
Cotton 0.773
Viscose
Tenacity12 Cotton/Tencel 0.006*
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.013*
Cotton 0.049*
Viscose
Tenacity16 Cotton/Tencel 0.001*
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000*
Viscose
Tenacity20 Cotton/Tencel 0.842
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000*
Viscose
Elogantion12 Cotton/Tencel 0.787
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000*
Viscose
Elogantion16 Cotton/Tencel 0.717
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton 0.000*
Viscose
Elogantion20 Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
Cotton Cotton/Tencel 0.000*
*The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.

200 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019

 Table 3. t-test results of dual-core yarns produced with different sheath fibres and yarn counts for yarn properties

Thick
Production parameters CVm Neps H Tenacity Elongation
places
12 Ne 0.000* 0.111 0.006* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
Viscose 16 Ne 0.000* 0.001* 0.001* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
20 Ne 0.000* 0.082 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

12 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

Cotton 16 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
20 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

12 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

Cotton/Tencel 16 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
20 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
*The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.

Table 4. t-test results of dual-core yarns produced with different sheath fibres and yarn counts for fabric properties

Production parameters Strength Elongation Bursting strength

12 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
Viscose 16 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
20 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

12 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

Cotton 16 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
20 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

12 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*

Cotton/Tencel 16 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
20 Ne 0.000* 0.000* 0.000*
*The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.

14 have a relatively higher significant influence on yarn

unevenness in comparison to core filament linear density.
12
50/70
70/70
Yarn imperfections
In the study, it was not determined any thin places for all
10
CVm [%]

yarn types. However, thick places and neps values are given
8

in Figures 2-3 and statistical test results are given in Tables

6
2-3. According to the results, dual-core yarns produced
with cotton sheath fibres have significantly higher thick
4 places and neps values than the yarns with viscose and
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20
cotton/Tencel wrapping fibres. As in yarn unevenness
Figure 1. Yarn unevenness results results, yarn imperfections are getting higher with the finer
yarn counts. Regarding the core filament linear density,
ANOVA results indicate that the effects of sheath fibre there is no clear trend in the results of thick places of all
(p=0.000) and yarn count (p=0.000) are statistically dual-core yarns. However, neps values seem to be increased
significant at 5% level. However, sheath fibre*yarn count as the core filament becomes coarser. This result is also in
(p=0.193), core filament linear density (p=0.273) and its harmony with the findings determined for core-spun yarns
interactive effects with sheath fibre (p=0.639), yarn count having single core filament at the yarn centre [26].
(p=0.424) and sheath fibre*yarn count (p=0.921) do not When the thick places of dual-core spun yarns are analysed
have statistically significant effect on the yarn irregularity statistically, ANOVA results indicate that effects of sheath
values. Therefore, these results suggest that sheath fibre fibre (p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.000) and sheath fibre*yarn
type due to its effect on fibre properties and yarn count count (p=0.000) are statistically significant at 5% level.
related from its effect on number of fibres in yarn structure However, core filament linear density (p=0.222) and its

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019 201

interactive effects with sheath fibre (p=0.223), yarn count Hairiness index of all dual-core yarns decreases with a
(p=0.379) and sheath fibre*yarn count (p=0.310) do not reduction in the yarn count and less number of fibres in
have considerably affect on thick places values of the yarns. yarn cross-section gives lower hairiness index, as in other
As to neps faults, similar trend is observed and sheath fibre yarn types. On the other hand, for the effect of core
(p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.000) and sheath fibre*yarn filament linear density, different trends have been observed
count (p=0.000) have statistically more important influence depending on the sheath type and yarn count. As the core
while the effect of core filament linear density (p=0.364) filament become coarser, hairiness values increase in 16/1
and its interactive effects with sheath fibre (p=0.124), yarn Ne and 20/1 Ne cotton, and 12/1 Ne and 16/1 Ne
count (p=0.110) and sheath fibre*yarn count (p=0.287) are cotton/Tencel sheathed dual-core yarns. For dual-core yarns
not statistically significant level on the neps values. As in with cotton/Tencel wrapping fibres, coarser core filament
yarn unevenness, the results reveal that sheath fibre type may decrease the yarn hairiness due to lower percentage of
and yarn count are the considerably important production cotton sheath fibres. For cotton sheath fibres, in contrast to
parameters for lower thick places and neps faults and both our expectations, coarser core filament causes higher yarn
core filament linear density values lead to similar yarn hairiness in 20 Ne yarn count. In another part of this study,
faults at the same sheath fibres and yarn counts. this trend was observed for 30 and 40 Ne cotton sheathed
core-spun yarns while 20 Ne, 30 Ne and 40 Ne viscose and
160
cotton/Tencel wrapped core-spun yarns, and hairiness of
140
core-spun yarns increased with coarser core filament usage
[26]. Hence, one may think that yarn hairiness starts to
120
Thick places [+50%]

50/70 increase beyond the certain yarn count because of the

70/70
coarser core filament and the limit for yarn count changes
100

80
depending on sheath fibre type.
60

40
When ANOVA results are analysed, it is determined that
sheath fibre (p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.000) and yarn
20
count*core filament linear density (p=0.006) have
0
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20 statistically significant effect on H hairiness values of dual-
core yarns. However, core filament linear density (p=0.447)
Figure 2. Thick places results
and interactive effects of sheath fibre*yarn count (p=0.103),
80
sheath fibre*core filament linear density (p=0.319) and
70 sheath fibre*yarn count*core filament linear density
60
(p=0.112) are found statistically insignificant at 5% level.
50
Therefore, as in ring spun and other yarn types, staple fibre
Neps [+200%]

50/70 properties, particularly fibre length, and changes in number

40
70/70 of sheath fibres in yarn structure resulted from yarn count
30
and linear density of core filament have a relatively higher
20 significant influence on hairiness of dual-core yarns.
10
Vuruşkan [24] also stated that yarn count is the most
effective parameter on yarn hairiness in comparison to yarn
0
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20 twist and elastane draft for core-spun yarns comprising core
Figure 3. Neps results filament.
The findings regarding the effect of core filament linear
Yarn hairiness density on yarn hairiness is also consistent with the
Hairiness properties of dual-core yarns were evaluated by literature [12-13, 29] and explained by the more possibility
Uster hairiness index (H) and the yarns containing cotton of displacement of the core filament and disrupting the
sheath fibres have been found to be more hairy while the sheath fibres orientation because of higher percentage of
yarns having viscose covering fibres have significantly elastic core filament in the yarn structure [13]. Another
lower hairiness values (Figure 4). In particular, H values of explanation may be insufficiently and improperly coating of
cotton fibres are significantly different from other sheath coarser core filament due to less number of fibres in finer
fibres while viscose and cotton/Tencel sheath fibres give yarn counts. If the results are concluded in a general
statistically similar yarn hairiness. Erdumlu et al. [27] also expression, core-spun yarns comprising single and dual
reported for different yarn types like ring, rotor and vortex core filaments with cotton sheath fibres become more hairy
and longer length of viscose rayon fibre, when compared with finer yarn counts and coarser core filament linear
with cotton, provided fewer protruding fibres and lower H densities. As to viscose and cotton/Tencel covering fibres,
values. Hence, fibre length of sheath fibres plays an coarser yarn count and core filament linear density lead to
important role in the hairiness values for spun yarns. higher yarn hairiness.

202 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019

 8 50/70 filament linear density (p=0.000) and interactive effects of
70/70
these parameters (p=0.000) except sheath fibre*core
7
filament linear density (p=0.000) are found statistically
significant level on yarn tenacity values. Therefore, all
Yarn hairiness [H]

production parameters of dual-core yarns have a relatively

6
higher significant influence on tenacity of the dual-core
yarns.
5

Yarn breaking elongation

4

V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20 The results are indicated in Figure 6. For the effect of
sheath fibre type, dual-core yarns produced with viscose
Figure 4. Yarn hairiness results
sheath fibres have the highest values while the yarns having
cotton wrapping fibres have the lowest breaking elongation
Yarn tenacity values for all yarn counts and core filament linear densities.
Since the elongation of viscose and Tencel fibres are
Differences in tenacity results are given in Figure 5. When greater than cotton, an increase in yarn elongation is also
the effect of sheath fibre type on tenacity values of dual- inevitable [28]. On the other hand, mostly, there are not
core yarns are examined, the findings are similarly statistically significant differences in the results of viscose
determined in core-spun yarns comprising single elastic and cotton/Tencel sheath fibres and hence both sheath
component. Dual-core yarns obtained by cotton/Tencel fibres lead to considerably higher breaking elongation
sheath fibres give the highest tenacity values while tenacity values than the dual-core yarns produced from cotton
of the yarns covered by cotton sheath fibres is the lowest. sheath fibres. Breaking elongation values of the dual-core
As the dual-core yarns become finer, as expected, tenacity yarns significantly decrease as the yarn becomes finer for
of the yarns decreases. As far as core filament linear density all sheath fibre types. An examination of the effect of core
is concerned, tenacity values of the dual-core yarns reduce filament linear density on yarn breaking elongation
with coarser core filament usage except 16 Ne viscose indicates that the increasing ratio of core filament content in
sheathed dual-core yarns. This result is consistent with the the yarn structure with the usage coarser core filament leads
findings for core-spun yarns having single elastic core to an increase on yarn elongation.
filament [12-13, 26, 30-31], which reported that most of the
loading stress is mainly taken up by relatively lesser 18

extensible sheath component in core spun yarns. Therefore,

16

strength of sheath or wrapping fibres mainly determines the 50/70

Breaking elongation [%]

70/70
overall yarn tenacity of core-spun yarns. As the core 14

filament is getting finer, number of sheath fibres and thus 12

contribution to yarn tenacity increases. This case provides

more resistance to applied load and higher tenacity values 10

are achieved [13, 22, 24, 29]. In present study, the findings 8

of lower tenacity values of coarser core filaments confirm

these statements and strength of sheath fibres appears to 6

have significant affect on tenacity of dual-core yarns than 4

yarn and core filament linear densities. V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20

22 Figure 6. Yarn breaking elongation results

20
50/70 According to ANOVA results, the effects of all parameters
70/70
18
and their interactions on breaking elongation are generally
Yarn tenacity [cN/tex]

16 statistically significant at 5% level. Therefore, not only the

14
sheath fibre and yarn count but also core filament linear
density is the parameters determining the breaking
elongation of dual-core yarns.
12

10

8 3.2. Fabric Properties

6
In this part, it was given some of the woven and knitted
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20 fabric properties of 12/1 Ne, 16/1 Ne and 20/1 Ne dual-core
Figure 5. Yarn tenacity results spun yarns produced with X55 (50 and 70 denier) and
Spandex (70 denier) core filaments and cotton, viscose and
On the other hand, ANOVA results indicate that the effect cotton/Tencel sheath fibres. ANOVA results were
of sheath fibre (p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.000) and core summarized in Table 2 and Table 4.

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019 203

Pilling behaviour having cotton fibres (Figure 7). The possible reason for this
result could be the tenacity values of these yarns.
Pilling is a very serious problem for the fabrics that arises
Furthermore, in 12 Ne yarn count, finer core filament
after the usage of the fabric. Pilling behaviour of all fabrics
provides higher fabric strength while an inverse tendency
was tested and Table 5 displays the pilling rates of the
becomes in 16 Ne and 20 Ne yarn counts and lower fabric
woven fabrics produced from dual-core yarns having
strength is obtained for all sheath fibre types. According to
different sheath fibres, yarn counts and core filament linear
statistical results, as determined in yarn tensile properties,
densities. A general assessment shows that the fabrics
the effect of sheath fibre (p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.000)
woven from dual-core yarns comprising viscose and
and its interactive effects of sheath fibre*yarn count
cotton/Tencel sheath fibres have almost similar pilling rates
(p=0.000) are found statistically significant level on fabric
for all yarn counts. However, the fabrics produced from the
strength. The effect of core filament linear density is seen to
dual-core yarns with cotton sheath fibres have a bit higher
be statistically important depending on sheath fibre type
pilling tendency than the other fabrics. This trend may
and yarn count and interactive effects of core filament
result from higher yarn Uster H hairiness values of cotton
linear density with sheath fibre (p=0.003), yarn count
sheathed dual-core yarns. Upon a general evaluation of
(p=0.000) and sheath fibre*yarn count (p=0.000) are
pilling results of the dual-core yarns indicates that the
statistically significant level on fabric strength.
sheath fibre properties is more effective on yarn hairiness
and thus pilling behaviour of the fabrics is affected from
sheath fibre characteristics in comparison to the effect of 80
50/70
70/70
the yarn count and core filament linear density.

Breaking strength [kN]

60

Tensile properties of the woven fabrics 40

As reported, dual-core yarns were used as weft yarn during

the woven fabric production and fabric strength and 20

breaking elongation was tested for only weft direction

because of the inadequate fabric sample. When the tensile 0
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20
properties of the fabrics are analysed, different trend is
observed depending on yarn count. In the fabrics woven Figure 7. Breaking strength values of woven fabrics
from 12 Ne and 20 Ne dual-core yarns, fabric breaking
strength values are higher for the fabrics having
cotton/Tencel sheathed fibres while lower for the fabrics

Table 5. Pilling property of the fabrics

500 1000 2000 3000 5000 7000

Yarn type
cycle cycle cycle cycle cycle cycle
Viscose-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4
Viscose-70 /70denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4
12 Ne Cotton-50/70 denier 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3
Cotton-70/70 denier 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3
Cotton/Tencel-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4
Cotton/Tencel-70/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4

Viscose-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4

Viscose-70 /70denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4
Cotton-50/70 denier 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 2-3
16 Ne
Cotton-70/70 denier 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4
Cotton/Tencel-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4
Cotton/Tencel-70/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4

Viscose-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4

Viscose-70 /70denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 2-3
Cotton-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4
20 Ne
Cotton-70/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4
Cotton/Tencel-50/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4
Cotton/Tencel-70/70 denier 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-4

204 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019

When the breaking elongation results of the woven fabrics density (p=0.250) do not have statistically significant effect
are studied, it is seen that the dual-core yarns having on fabric bursting strength. The usage of coarser core
viscose sheath fibres give significantly higher fabric filament provides higher bursting strength values in 12 Ne
breaking elongation values than the other sheath fibres as in and 16 Ne yarn counts for the fabrics having viscose and
yarn breaking elongation (Figure 8). On the other hand, cotton sheath fibres while this case is observed in 20 Ne
there are no clear trend regarding the effect of core filament yarn count for cotton/Tencel sheath fibre.
linear density on fabric breaking elongation and elongation
values of the fabrics change depending on yarn counts and
700
sheath fibre types. According to statistical results, as
determined in yarn tensile properties, the effect of sheath 600
50/70
70/70
fibre (p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.019) and core filament

Bursting strength [kPa]

linear density (p=0.000) and interactive effects of yarn 500

count*core filament linear density (p=0.000) and sheath 400

fibre*yarn count*core filament linear density (p=0.000)

except sheath fibre*core filament linear density (p=0.225) 300

are found statistically significant level on fabric breaking 200

elongation values. Therefore, yarn count, type of sheath

fibre and core filament linear density influences the tensile 100

properties of the woven fabrics significantly. 0

V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20

45
50/70 Figure 9. Bursting strength values of knitted fabrics
70/70
40
Breaking elongation [%]

35

30
Bending rigidity

25
Bending resistance is the resistance of a certain size of
textile sample to bend under its own weight and one of the
20
parameter representing the fabric comfort. In the study,
15
bending rigidity of the fabrics was tested for warp and weft
10 direction and calculated for the samples and the results
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20
were given Figure 10. As far as the effect of sheath fibre
Figure 8. Breaking elongation values of woven fabrics type is concerned, the fabrics woven from dual-core yarns
having cotton/Tencel sheath fibres have mostly higher
Bursting strength rigidity values compared with that of the cotton and viscose
sheathed fibres. However, the effect of the sheath fibre type
Bursting strength is the ability of the fabric to resist rupture and also yarn count are not statistically significant on
by pressure and depends on the tensile strength and bending rigidity of the fabrics. On the other hand, an
extensibility of the material. In this study, the bursting investigation of the effect of the core filament linear density
strength of the fabrics knitted from the dual-core yarns shows that bending rigidity of the fabrics change depending
produced from different sheath fibres and core filament on yarn count and sheath fibre type. For viscose and cotton
linear density were measured for three different yarn counts sheath fibres, coarser core filament leads to higher bending
and comparisons were realized. According to the results, rigidity up to certain yarn counts and then rigidity decreases
bursting strength results of plain knitted fabrics in Figure 9 with core filament linear density. However, for
change depending on sheath fibre and core filament linear cotton/Tencel sheath fibres, coarser core filament leads to
densities. Upon the general evaluation of the sheath fibres, lower fabric bending rigidity values.
dual-core yarns having cotton and cotton/Tencel sheath
fibres give higher bursting strength values than that of the
50/70
viscose sheath fibres due to strength characteristics of the 70/70
sheath fibres. This result is agreed with findings of [27] in
Bending rigidity [mg.cm]

300

which investigated the yarn and fabric properties of

different yarn types produced from various fibre types. On
the other hand, ANOVA results indicate that the effect of
sheath fibre (p=0.000), yarn count (p=0.000) and interactive
200

effects of these parameters (p=0.000), sheath fibre*core

filament linear density (p=0.027), sheath fibre*yarn
count*core filament linear density (p=0.000) are found 100
V-12 V-16 V-20 C-12 C-16 C-20 C/T-12 C/T-16 C/T-20
statistically significant level. However, core filament linear
density (p=0.204) and sheath fibre*core filament linear Figure 10. Bending rigidity results of woven fabrics

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 29(3), 2019 205

4. CONCLUSIONS while an opposite trend occurs beyond this yarn count
for each sheath fibre type, particularly cotton and other
This study investigated dual-core yarn and fabric properties
sheath fibre types. This case is probably due to
obtained by different sheath fibre types, yarn counts and
improperly coating of core filament, more possibility of
core filament linear densities. The outstanding properties of
displacement of the core filament and disrupting the
dual-core yarns observed within the scope of this study can
sheath fibres orientation resulted from changes in
be summarized as follows.
number of fibres and fibre properties related from
 Regarding the effect of sheath fibre type, viscose and sheath fibre characteristics and yarn counts.
cotton/Tencel fibre sheath fibres have significantly lower Additionally, tenacity of dual-core yarns increases with
yarn unevenness, imperfections and hairiness values and finer core filaments while higher breaking elongation is
pilling behaviour resulted from fibre properties, obtained with coarser ones in dual-core yarns.
particularly, fibre length, number of short fibres and low
 Statistical results also indicates the significant effect of
variation in fibre length. On the other hand, yarn and
production parameters of the sheath fibre type and yarn
fabric tenacity values of dual-core yarns obtained by
count on yarn unevenness, thick places, neps, yarn
cotton/Tencel sheath fibres is better than the other yarns
hairiness and fabric bursting strength. On the other
due to positive contribution of sheath fibre strength to the
hand, all production parameters of dual-core yarns have
yarn tenacity while viscose sheath fibres give higher yarn
a relatively higher significant influence on tensile
and fabric elongation values because of the elongation of
properties of the dual-core yarns and hence woven
viscose fibre. Although its effect is considered
fabrics.
insignificant, cotton/Tencel sheath fibres have mostly
higher fabric bending rigidity values compared with that At the end of this study, some findings related with the
of the cotton and viscose sheath fibres. dual-core yarns with limited number of findings are
presented to the literature and also obtained some results
 When the dual-core yarns become finer, yarn about the effect of various process parameters on dual-core
unevenness and imperfections increase while hairiness yarn and some of the fabric properties.
and tensile properties decrease as a result of decreasing
number of sheath fibres in yarn structure.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
 On the other hand, effect of core filament linear density The authors also wish to express their gratitude to
on dual-core yarn and fabric properties changes MinaTeks Tekstil San. Tic. A.Ş. (Kahramanmaraş/Turkey)
depending on yarn count and sheath fibre types as for the sample preparation and ADIM Tekstil San. Tic. A.Ş.
determined in core-spun yarns having single elastic core (Isparta/Turkey), GÖKHAN Tekstil San. Tic. A.Ş.
filament. In a general expression, the results display an (Denizli/Turkey) and Comfytex (Kayseri/Turkey) for the
increasing or decreasing trend to a certain yarn count sample testing.

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