Ulster County Resource Recovery Agency

Connecting Communities through Composting

G R O W U L S T E R G R E E N

Backyard
Composting
Guide

999 Flatbush Road Kingston NY 12401 • 845-336-0600 • WWW.UCRRA.ORG • @UCRRA

This booklet was created by Ulster County Resource Recovery Agency, made possible with the support of
New York State Department of Environmental Conservation and New York State Environmental Protection Fund.
Ulster For over 30 years, Ulster County Resource Recovery
County Agency (UCRRA) has been developing and implement-
ing sustainable waste management programs for
Resource Ulster County. UCRRA is a solid waste authority,
Recovery public benefit corporation, and permitted solid waste
Agency facility, managing all municipal waste generated in
Ulster County.
Our mission is to
UCRRA Organics Recovery Facility
protect public health UCRRA operates an industrial composting operation
and the environment that opened in 2012 as a small pilot project. The
Organics Recovery Facility processes food scraps from
and to promote
commercial partners like restaurants, businesses, and
sustainable materials schools. We manufacture a high quality, sustainably-
management produced U.S. Composting Council STA certified
compost product that we sell in bulk and in 1 cf bags.
practices in Ulster
County by efficiently Recycling Outreach Team
The UCRRA Recycling Outreach Team is available to
managing solid help improve or implement waste reduction programs
waste materials with for residents, apartment buildings, businesses, and
schools! Our team provides free professional and
a focus on resource
knowledgeable programming, and is dedicated
conservation. to providing essential services to not only manage
waste, but to reduce, reuse, and rethink waste.
Please contact UCRRA (845-336-0600) to ask about
our programs.

Why Compost? 1 Composting Methods 6

What is Composting? 3 Where Should You Site Your Compost? 9
What is Compost? 3 How Soon Will Compost be Finished? 9
Myths About Composting 3 Is it Done Yet? 9
Composting Recipe 4 Troubleshooting Guide 10
 Why Compost?
Composting has many benefits! 40% of
food produced
Backyard Composting is an easy and in the USA is
effective way to manage food scraps at never eaten
home in an environmentally sustainable way.
Organic materials, like yard waste and food scraps,
are highly recyclable through composting and The value of this
the end product, compost, can be used in wasted food is estimated to be
home gardens, on farms, lawns, or
added to potted plants.
$161 billion/year
or $1500/year for
a family of four
Americans
generate more than Food
250 million tons waste
makes up the largest
of municipal solid
component (22%) of
waste each year
material buried
in landfills
Food makes up
15% of the total
waste stream Food scraps
(nationwide) are a valuable natural
material that can be
At the landfill, recycled into compost
food waste degrades (an organic matter resource)
anaerobically and creates
Methane,
a greenhouse gas more In Ulster County,
potent than carbon each truck sent to the landfill
dioxide travels 480+ miles roundtrip.
By composting organic materials,
UCRRA can reduce waste transport,
which conserves fuel, saves money,
and reduces the County’s
‘carbon footprint’ !

1
 Pseudoscorpion
Rove Beetle Centipede

Ground Beetle
Flatworm
Beetle Mite
Ant

Roundworms Beetle

Mold Mite
Springtail

Adult Fly
Protozoa
Fly Larvae

Bacteria

Woodlouse

Fungi
Millipede

Slug

Mite

Snail

Earthworm
2 Organic Debris
What is Composting?
Composting is a natural process where organic materials (like food scraps, yard
trimmings, and animal manures) are mixed together and managed in a controlled
way. A network of soil organisms work to break down, or decompose, the plant
materials. As soil organisms break down the materials, the compost pile heats up.
By providing consistent management for the chemical, physical, and biological
processes at work, composters create an ideal environment for the soil organisms
to thrive - and the end product is called compost.

What is Compost?
Compost is a crumbly, dark material that looks and smells like soil – but it is not soil.
Compost is a natural humus material high in organic matter, soil microbes, and plant
micronutrients. Compost can be used to plant trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables; it can
be used on lawns, sown directly into fields and garden beds or used in potted plants.
Compost aids in soil moisture retention, improving soil structure, and has many other
horticultural uses and benefits.

‘Myths’ About Composting

You may have heard that compost piles attract pests and create odors in your backyard.
These issues can easily be avoided by knowing a few simple tips. Or you may think that
composting is complicated, but anyone can be successful at home composting by
learning ‘the basics’. Or maybe you think home composting takes up a lot of time and
outdoor space. There are many ways to make compost, and each bin or method has pros
and cons. Composting happens, with or without much ‘fuss’ but successful composting
does take a little TLC. There’s really no right or wrong way to do it, and the best way to
learn is to just get started!

Actinomycetes
3
Greens
Greens
“Greens” are fresh, moist, nitrogen-rich plant materials that typically break down quickly
and should be mixed or covered with a thick layer of browns. All food scraps, and some
yard wastes, are considered to be ‘greens.’ In addition to adding nitrogen, greens
typically add moisture. Tip: always bury or cover your food scraps completely so that
no food is showing on the top layer of the bin or compost pile. This helps reduce odors,
pests, and control moisture.

Compost these greens: Food scraps including: inedible vegetable and fruit scraps
(cores, skins, ends, etc.), coffee grounds, coffee filters, tea bags (staples removed),
stale bread, nut shells, egg shells, uneaten cooked foods like rice, pasta, etc.
Other ‘greens’ from the garden include: grass clippings, fresh plant leaves
and trimmings, weeds (no seeds). Animal manures are also
considered greens: chicken, rabbit, pig, goat, sheep, cow,
horse manures mixed with natural animal bedding.

Avoid composting these greens: Butter, fats, cooking

oils, meats (cooked or raw), bones, fish scraps, milk or Rec
dairy products, salad dressings, cooked foods with exces- for bala
sive oils/sauces, vegetable/fruit seeds, dishwater, etc. Browns an
To maximize th
Never compost these: Diseased plants, chemically- process and red
treated plants or grass clippings, weeds with weed odors, mix 3 p
seeds, etc. cat, dog, bird manures or cat litter bedding. to every 1 p
to the com

Water
Water is both an input and an output during the composting
process, so moisture levels will always be changing. Moisture
depends on the mix of materials being composted, and if your pile is
exposed to weather. Always look for moisture when adding new materials.
You may need to add water if the pile is dry. Or you may need to add more dry (brown)
materials if the compost pile is too wet. This isn’t an exact science, but a good rule of
thumb is to aim for 45-60% moisture, damp enough so that a handful of material feels
moist, but dry enough that a hard squeeze produces one or two drops of water.

Water
4
low moisture = slow decomposition, soil microbes go into dormancy
high moisture = slow decomposition, dense or compacted pile, odors, and nutrient leaching
 BrownsBrowns
“Browns” are dry, woody, carbon-rich plant materials that typically break down very
slowly. In addition to adding carbon, browns also add good structure and porosity to
the compost mix, allowing air to flow freely through the pile.
Tip: smaller pieces = faster composting.

Compost these browns: Garden wastes including: dry leaves, small branches (twigs,
sticks, pine cones, pine needles, etc.), natural wood chips/sawdust, soil, old potting mix,
hay, straw, corn stalks, etc. Other ‘browns’ include: Cardboard (shredded, no tape/dyes),
uncoated paperboard (paper towel rolls, toilet paper rolls, etc.) shredded paper,
newspaper (no glossy or magazine type paper), clean paper towels/napkins
(no chemicals).

Never compost these: Diseased or chemically treated plants,

or plant waste with weed seeds, ashes/coal, charcoal,
treated/painted wood, colored mulch products, waxed
cardboard, glossy paper, paper towels with cleaning
cipe chemicals, compostable packaging.
ancing
nd Greens
he composting
duce pests and Air
parts ‘browns’ Composting is an aerobic process, meaning it
part ‘greens’ requires oxygen. Air should be able to move freely
mpost pile. throughout the pile or it can become anaerobic, which
leads to foul odors and other chemical byproducts that
can be harmful to plants. To add air, or to aerate, the
Air
compost pile, manually mix or turn over the material with
a pitchfork, shovel, or specialized tool. Some compost systems
aerate passively by the design of the bin.

Turning fluffs and loosens compacted areas, mixes material to better blend
browns with greens, and re-charges the composting process with fresh air. Turning the
pile can also help control moisture, release trapped gases, and invigorate the process.

How Often Should You Turn the Pile?

Turn the pile as often as you can or whenever you have the time. Once per month is
commendable, but more importantly, consider turning according to the pile conditions
or when adding new material.
5
 Composting Methods:
Choosing a Bin and Bin Location

Enclosed Bins Compost Tumblers

Pros Tumblers have all the same pros and cons
• A fully enclosed container helps deter as enclosed compost bins. Additionally,
pests and keeps a nice, neat appearance consider these features…
• There are lots of options for commercially-
sold bins or you can make your own using Pros
chicken wire or an old trash can! • Tumblers offer a more efficient way to turn
• TIP: When possible, the bottom of the the material high up off the ground
composter should make direct contact (no need for other turning tools)
with the ground • A good option for: urban composting,
• A good option for: 1-2 people with a 1-2 people with a small amount of yard
small amount of yard waste and limited waste and limited outdoor space
outdoor space
Cons
Cons • Tumblers typically costs more than other
• Best for batch style composting stationary bins
(once it’s full you’ll need to wait to add more, • Once filled to capacity, these units become
or use more than one bin) difficult to turn
• Once full, these bins can become difficult • Wear & Tear – handles rust, fall off etc.
to turn and harvest the finished compost
• Small size = not ideal for someone with
lots of yard waste
• Fully enclosed bin = monitor pile dryness
6
There are many different ways to compost! There is no ‘right or wrong’ way to
decide which type of bin to use – the important considerations are: how much
and what types of materials do you have to compost, and how much money
and time do you want to spend on composting?

Three Bin Systems Compost Piles/Heaps

Pros Pros
• Many DIY design options (made from pallets, • No start-up costs! All you need is a tool
cinder blocks, mesh screens, etc.) to turn the pile
• Shape of the compost system makes • Can handle lots of material,
shoveling/turning easier larger piles = hot composting
• Allows you to stockpile yard waste while • Pile is open to the weather and
still having a mixing bay for active elements = less watering
composting, and a place to store finished • A good option for: low budget
compost composting, gardeners with lots of yard
• Can handle lots of material, waste, large families, group composting
larger piles = hot composting programs
• Easy to harvest finished compost
• Pile is open to the weather and Cons
elements = less watering • Messy appearance
• A good option for: gardeners with lots • Pile is open = needs more maintenance
of yard waste, large families, group to prevent pests
composting programs

Cons
• Permanent structure, hard to move
For fast, hot composting, the ideal
• Turning is more labor intensive
• Pile is open = needs more maintenance compost pile size is 3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft.
to prevent pests 7
 Choosing a Bin and Bin Location

Vermicomposting Bokashi
Bokashi is a fermentation method of
Pros ‘pickling’ food scraps in a sealed bucket,
• Low maintenance – worms do the work aided by a ‘bokashi mix’. Bokashi has most
for you! of the same pros and cons as vermicom-
• Can be done indoors, all year round posting. Additionally, consider these
• Lots of options for commercially-sold features…
bins or you can make your own using
old storage bins Pros
• Produces a ‘Compost Tea’ that can be • Can manage meat, fish, bones, fats, dairy,
used to water plants grease, and other hard to compost
• The resulting ‘vermicompost’ is a high materials
quality, nutrient rich compost • A good option for: advanced composters,
• A good option for: apartment dwellers, winter composting, and 'zero waste'
families with kids, people with a small composters
amount of yard waste, scalable for
group composting like in classrooms Cons
or office buildings, winter composting • Need to purchase or make your own
bokashi mix
Cons • More likely to have some odors
• Not a good way to manage yard wastes • Not a stand-alone compost system, the
• Worms can’t eat everything end product should be added to another
(citrus, meat/bones, dairy etc.) composting system
• Must chop food in smaller peices
• Harvesting the compost is labor-
intensive (must sort worms from compost) These options cover the basic bins – but
• Poorly managed bins can produce there are many styles of compost bins and
odors and fruit flies other composting methods, such as ditch
composting and digesters!
8
Where Should You Site Your Compost Bin?
Convenience is key: how far are you willing to walk to dump your food scraps or garden
waste, to add water, or to access tools? What do your neighbors think about compost-
ing? Do you want to share access to the compost with them? Tip: winter composting is
more successful when the bin or pile is placed up against a wind shield like a fence or
outbuilding. Composting can be done in shady areas or direct sunlight (though sunny
areas can dry out the compost pile).

How Soon Will Compost Be Finished?

Composting takes time. Certain management techniques can speed up the process.
With good management composting can take as little as 4-8 months. With more
passive management and more stubborn materials, composting can take 1-2 years.

Is it done yet?
Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy. Compost needs time to rest, or
mature, before it is ready to use (even when it looks like finished compost it may still
be immature). Using compost before it is ready can damage plants. If ‘brown’ materials
are not fully decomposed, it can temporarily reduce the amount of nutrients available
for plants. If ‘green’ materials are not fully decomposed, it can produce unwanted or
imbalanced natural chemicals like organic acids that can be harmful to plants. Immature
compost can also contain weed seeds.
Try the Jar Test to see if your compost is ready. Place a small amount of compost in a
glass jar, add enough water to cover the compost, and then seal the lid for seven days.
When you open the jar, if the compost smells nice and earthy, then it's done!

Before using the compost, let it dry out and rest in a small pile or on a tarp in the sun
for a few weeks.

It's As Easy as 1,2,3

Step 1: Gather browns & greens. Collect food scraps using an old coffee tin, a bucket,
or a store-bought kitchen caddy. Chop scraps into small pieces! Stockpile your browns.
Tip: bag up leaves until you're ready to use them!

Step 2: Mix or layer browns & greens. Lay browns into a nest in your bin or pile. Then,
add greens in the center and cover with another layer of browns. This is called 'lasagna
composting'. For large batches, manually mix the materials instead of working in layers.

Step 3: Show some TLC! Add water and/or turn the compost pile as needed. 9
 Home Composting Troubleshooting Guide
Symptom Possible Problems Solutions
Material is too wet Add dry materials (dry leaves, woodchips, straw or shredded paper) to balance
Pile has a and compacted, or moisture. Then turn the pile to add air. If using a small bin, poke holes deep
bad odor not enough ‘browns’ in the pile with an old broom stick or tool and leave lid off the bin.
Wrong materials Keep meat, fish, fats, and bones out. Large amounts of cooked foods can
in the pile cause odors. Be sure to always cover or bury food scraps well.
Presence of stagnant water Eliminate any puddles or standing water.
Remix the outer layer of material into the hot center of the pile so any fly
Mosquitoes larvae will be destroyed.
or flies Wrong materials
in the pile Flies may indicate the food scraps are too exposed and not buried well
enough. Keep highly putrescible foods (meats fats, bones. etc.) out and
be sure to always cover or bury food scraps well.
Insects are a good sign of a productive compost pile. However, if a large
Earwigs, slugs, No problem - Pile is population of one insect – the compost food web could be unbalanced.
mites, or other composting correctly! Remix the outer layer of material into the hot center of the pile so any fly
insects larvae will be destroyed.
Actinomycetes are a form of bacteria that resemble fungi, and may appear
White “ashy” like white/gray spider webs during the final stages of composting. They
No problem – Pile is
substance in play an important role in degrading tough, woody biomass that’s harder
composting correctly!
compost pile to breakdown. Molds and yeasts take over during the final stages of
composting but fungal species can be numerous during the whole process.
Wrong materials in the pile Keep meat, fats, bones, etc. out of bin and cover food scraps well.
Pests
(raccoons, rats, Foods scraps are exposed or Chop food into smaller pieces so it breaks down faster. Contain compost
bears, etc.) not contained well enough by securing the bin into the ground, or covering with a tarp and bricks, etc.
Never leave food scraps exposed – always bury or cover with ‘browns’.

Material is too dry, or not Wear a gardening glove and squeeze a handful of material; Is it damp?
enough greens (nitrogen) If too dry, use a hose or watering can to add some moisture. If material is
too dry it’s also possible that there’s not enough ‘greens’ in the mix.
The ideal pile size is for active composting is 3’x3’x3’. Smaller piles won’t
Pile is too small heat up. Add more material, or insulate the sides and top of the bin/pile.
Compost pile
isn’t heating Cool weather See Solutions for Frigid, cold weather.
up/ nothing
is breaking Large, undecomposed items Smaller pieces = faster composting. Make sure food scraps are cut into 1-3
down inch pieces and yard waste is broken down or shredded as much as possible.
If it looks dark, crumbly and smells earthy it may be done! Try the jar test:
Compost may be finished put some finished compost in a sealed jar for 24 hours. If you open the jar
and smell any foul odors, let the compost continue to cure and mature
before using it.
Lack of oxygen Turn the pile more frequently.
Composting slows during the winter. Increase pile size and/or insulate the
sides and top of the bin/pile. Build a wind break by covering the bin/pile
with a tarp or by moving the bin/pile up against a fence or building to
Frigid, protect it from harsh winds. Do not turn the pile in the winter, as this will
cold weather only make the pile lose heat. In the Spring when the snow melts, the
compost may become overly wet or saturated, so add dry browns and
10 give the pile a big turn as soon as possible.