Dye plants of traditions In Oudhref (south east of Tunisia): safeguarding knowledge to
new application perspectives
sabiha. Mahmoud 1*, Riadh Bezzaouia 2*,
1
Expert scientific researcher (Dar Al Margoom Association, Oudfref, Gabes, Tunisia);
2
Heritage researcher (Dar Al Margoom Association, Oudfref, Gabes, Tunisia);
*[email protected]
*[email protected]
Abstract
Natural dyes, used since prehistoric times, are mainly extracted from the plant world.
Examples of their importance in the cultural heritage of Tunisia societies especially in
Oudhref ( village in south east of Tunisia) are presented, by recalling its plant sources in the
region and reviving it, because natural dyes are currently attracting renewed interest due to
their potential applications in various industrial sectors.
And in view of the richness of this region in the art of Mergoum weaving, the revival of
natural dyeing and its exploitation in modern designs, which have come to not only include
textile but also include clothes, bags and even furniture designs, has become very important,
economically more successful, and environmentally safer because it depends mainly On the
use of the circular economy, which has become safer for humans and nature.
In this work we presented an overview of the types of dyeing plants used in the region and we
have focused on the most important tinctorial plants used since ancient civilizations, which is
a characteristic species of pigments most used in the region of Oudhref such us the garance
(rubia tinctorum l.), the indigotiers (Indigofera tinctoria L.), the gaude (Reseda Luteola) and
the pomegranate (Punica granatum). We also mentioned the different stages of dyeing
process, starting from preparing the wool to the naturally colored wool in a healthy and
simple way. We also showed the importance of using this method and its role in producing
brighter and more modern designs in different domain and its positive impact on human
health and the environment and its importance in the circular economy.
Keywords: Tinctorial plants; dyeing process; circular economy, Oudhref (southeast of
Tunisia).
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Introduction
Natural dyes in the world today are at the crossroads between the extinction of knowledge old
and new valuation prospects.
The use of dyes and natural pigments have long been involved in maintaining a close bond
between humanity and natural environments and could today help revitalize it. Natural dyes
and dyes are an integral part of world heritage extract colors from plants is a field of
knowledge that we find in all civilizations (Cardon, 2003., 2007).
Its seniority, increasingly highlighted by archaeological discoveries, indicates that the search
for plants dyes must have gone hand in hand with that of edible plants and medicinal. Also,
throughout history, dyes have had a major importance in cultural and economic exchanges
between different regions of the world.
The major break in this long history occurs in the 19th century: the rise of organic chemistry
then allowed the invention of a whole new range of dyes and pigments, synthesized from
fossil resources, coal tar, then oil. These new dyes are rapidly and overwhelmingly adopted by
all industrialized countries and exported to the world whole (cardon et al., 2010).
On time current, with the worldwide changes of lifestyles, this knowledge is rapidly
disappearing while it is the last generation of the living treasures of the art of dyeing. Despite
the multitude of publications disseminated in scientific archives or journals, sometimes with
access difficult, there are still a lot of sources of dyes and descriptions of dyeing or coloring
processes traditional things to do, before it's too late (Siva., 2007).
At the same time, the awareness, at the global level, of the inevitable depletion of fossil
resources, the environmental impact of the production and massive use of synthetic dyes, and
the harmful effects of some of them on health, is accompanied by a renewed interest in
potentially renewable resources constituted by natural dyes and dyes, perceived a priori as
harmless or beneficial (which, of course, remains to be proven for many of them) (cardon et
al., 2010).
This new issue economic raises the crucial question of the possibility of sustainable
development of a natural dyes sector, founded on responsible management of wild natural
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resources with respect for the intellectual property rights of peoples indigenous peoples on
biodiversity, and on the adoption of environmentally friendly production.
A risk exists, in indeed, that a fad and craze for natural dyes and dyes, leading to their
production massive industrial scale for large-scale use, results in the catastrophic looting of
the natural resorts of many wild dye species.
In order to avoid this, and meet the challenge of scaling up industrial, complementary
approaches are emerging for a sustainable development of the production of natural dyes.
Systematic testing in culture will be necessary for wild species identified as potentially
interesting. In this case, the ethical and ecological consistency of the approach presupposes
that the methods of agriculture or forestry are brought to the fore point out of concern for the
environment. The same objective of minimizing the environmental impact must govern the
development of processes for extracting and applying natural dyes. It is about setting up a
whole sector that would be part of a new "green economy"(cardon et al., 2010).
Oudhref’s tinctorial traditions
Presentation of the region
Delegation since 2020, the region of oudhref is part of the governorate of Gabes in the south-
east of Tunisia, It is known for its oasis and for the manufacture of traditional Tunisian
carpets of the kilim type known under the name of "mergoums of Oudhref". Woven in a
harmony of colors, often in red tones.
The main dye plants in Oudhref
A so-called tinctorial plant is a plant some of which parts can be used to prepare tinctures.
These are generally used for dyeing natural textile trees (wool, silk) or vegetable (cotton,
linen, etc.),
Many plants species have been used by our civilizations to paint, calligraphy or dye, this since
the dawn of time (Neolithic).
However, their uses have largely declined since the beginning of the 20th century, with the
appearance of pigments synthesis of petrochemicals.
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The pigments extracted from dye plants are organic compounds capable of absorbing visible
light. They are taken from the various parts of the species in question (leaves, roots, barks,
fruits, flowers)
The garance rubia tinctorum l.
The main part used from this plant for dyeing is the root which provides an orange-red color
that can go red Strong with the use of different materials or towards a brick red if the dye bath
is boiling.
Rubia tinctorum
The indigotiers Indigofera tinctoria L.
All leaves of this plant are used for dyeing. The range of blues provided by Indigo is infinite
and varies depending on the dyeing method. From the paleest to the deepest black, the
particularity of this dye is that the fibers are not colored by impregnation, but during the exit
stage, by oxidation with air.
Indigofera tinctoria
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The gaude Reseda Luteola
It is one of the oldest sources of yellow because the color obtained is very stable and strong.
The entire aerial part is used for dye extraction (stems and leaves in particular).
Reseda luteola
The pomegranate Punica granatum
The peel of the pomegranate tree is very rich in natural compounds that stabilize the color of
the wool and prevent its deformation. The colors obtained from the bark are generally in
brown shades.
Punica granatum
The barbary fig Opuntia ficus Indica
The fruits of this plant contain a substance used as a natural colorant, and the use of juices
from these fruits showed good properties of stability on the wool fibers.
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Opuntia ficus Indica
Fibers preparation
After the process of extracting wool from sheep and then carefully spinning it, all impurities
must be removed from the fabric to be dyed, as some of the light colors may not be dyed on
these stains, which causes a decrease in the quality of dyeing.
Dying Process
The extraction process can be simple (simple plant decoction) or very complex (soaking,
fermentation, drying, mordanting with salts metal, etc.). It is often necessary to prepare fibers
to their dye. Some acid dyes, however, directly dye the cotton like turmeric (Curcuma longa)
Etching
Etching is the next step. It often consists in combination with preliminary baths of tannins, to
soak the fibers to be dyed in a bath biting. The latter is often a metallic salt: alums, tartars, tin,
copper, iron or chromium. Others mordants have also been used since Antiquity: wood ash,
salts. In fact, plant pigments contain coloring molecules, for example, indigotin for the indigo
tree (Indigofera). The colors of plant pigments change with their association with mordants
and often vary depending on the acidity of the dye bath.
Dye bath
To get the best dye bath, it is necessary to grind the dye plants in order to extract them cell
juices which usually contain the coloring molecules. The plants thus crushed are macerated in
a volume of warm water to extract the coloring quintessence. The fibers are then immersed in
this dye bath.
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The smoothing consists for the dyer to roll up for this operation the skeins of fibers to be dyed
around of a stick that he swirls in the dye bath to unify the latter. This bath can last between 1
hour for herbaceous dye plants and go up to 4 hours for bark and lichens. When the dye is
finished, the skeins must be transferred in clear, warm water, so as not to change temperature
too suddenly.
Why natural dyeing?
At present, there is an evolution in consumer awareness, worldwide, of the harmful effects of
synthetic dyes on human health and the environment. And this is accompanied by a great
interest in renewable resources consisting of natural dyes, which are harmless and even
beneficial to health.
In fact, many researches have been developed to prove the advantages of using natural dyes in
dyeing textile fibers.
In addition, all of these pigments are based on a very large number of renewable sources
provided by nature (plants and animals). These dye sources are not only renewable but also
biodegradable.
In addition, the production and use of natural dyes is less polluting than most synthetic dyes
and dyes that generate harmful products when discharged into the natural environment
without treating toxic substances. Therefore, the use of natural coloring materials reduces the
negative impact on the environment.
Many natural dye extracts also have a wide range of antibacterial activity. A study of turmeric
and pomegranate extracts shows that they have antibacterial activity against many known
bacteria. (Shahid et al., 2013; Han et al., 2005)
Other research has also shown that natural dyeing acts as an absorbent of UV rays to protect
textiles from ultraviolet radiation and improve the light resistance of some textile fibers.
Some research has also reported that many textile fibers dyed with natural dyes have anti-
fungal activities (Kato et al., 2004).
Carpets, upholstered clothes, and blankets often have problems during storage as these
products can be attacked by many insects. Researchers have shown that some natural dyes act
as insect repellants and protect textile fibers from damage caused by them.
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Conclusion
Natural dyes nevertheless remain a basic resource in the countries less developed, especially
for crafts. They are back in fashion in our world, because they often over nuances closer to the
nature, are more ecological, warmer, brighter and interesting than chemical dyes, raw, garish
and often without relief. They promote also biological and cultural diversity, are part of the
local artisanal and industrial heritage
On the one hand, the art of mergoum weaving is abundant, which was mainly based on the
natural dyeing of wool, which is characterized by distinctive Berber patterns specific to the
region, and which has recently become very much needed in the market of designs and
production (designs of clothes, bags, furniture, etc;).
By adopting natural dyeing, this approach can become more beneficial as it relies on
structuring the circular economy, because it begins and ends with nature and gives more
vibrant colors that last much more than artificial colors.
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