Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Ellen sweater

by Ellen Dam &

Katrine Hannibal

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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would like a pattern as well, then remember that they can buy it at oenling.com
Ellens sweater_UK_20240214
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Ellen sweater
Ellen’s sweater is designed to be reversible and is knit using Önling No 20, 100% Shetland wool and Önling No 10, silk
mohair, which gives you a warm, soft, and lightweight fabric. The delicate seed stitch pattern adds beautiful texture.
The fit features classic sleeves and a snug neckline. It has wide raglan increases, and you can choose whether to add
wide ribbed edges or icord edges to this stunning sweater. The design is intended to have 5-10 cm of positive ease.
You can adjust sleeve and edge details to fit you perfectly.

Hashtags
#ellensweater #myfavoriteoenling Önling No 18, 75 % Wool, 25% Recycled Polyester, 400 m
#oenlingknit #oenling #katrinehannibal pr. 100 g.
Color A (300)300(300)400(400)400(400)400(500) g
Size
(XS)S(M)L(XL)2XL(3XL)4XL(5XL) Önling No 10, 70% Mohair, 30% Silk, 210 m pr. 25 g.
Chest: (92)98(104)110(116)124(132)140(148) cm / Color B: (125)125(125)150(150)150(175)175(200) g
approx. (36)38.5(41)43.5(45.5)49(52)55(58) inches
Length: (54)55(56)57(58)59(60)61(62) cm / Recommended circular needles 5 mm / US 8
approx. (21.5)22(22)22.5(23)23.5(23.5)24(24.5) inches
8 markers in different colors or with numbers = raglan
Sleeve length under arm: markers
(46)46(46)46(46)43(42)41(41) cm / approx. 3 meters yarn in contrast color
(18)18(18)18(18)17(17)16(16) inches
You knit with 2 threads of yarn (A + B) throughout the
Materials sweater.
Önling No. 20, 100 % Shetland wool, 225 m pr. 50 g.
Color A (250)250(250)300(300)300(350)350(400) g Gauge
16 sts x 22 rows/rounds in pattern stitch on needle size 5 /
Önling No 10, 70% Mohair, 30% Silk, 210 m pr. 25 g. US 8 = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches, after wash and blocking.
Color B: (125)125(125)150(150)150(175)175(200) g NOTE! The seed stitch ribbing contracts significantly, so
remember that the measurements are after washing and
or blocking.

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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Ellens sweater_UK_20240214
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Procedure Yoke
The sweater is knit in the round, top down. It starts with Cast on using a crocheted provisional cast-on. See
a provisional cast-on to adjust the size of the neckline explanations and abbreviations.
afterwards. Short rows are worked across the shoulders
and back at the beginning to create a higher back neck. Cast on (76)80(80)84(84)84(92)92(92) sts onto circular
The yoke is worked with raglan increases. Then, the work needle size 5 / US 8 with yarn in a contrasting color.
is divided, and sleeves and body are worked separately.
The sleeves are worked in the round. After trying on the Switch to color A and B, knit one rnd and place markers
sweater, the provisional cast-on is unraveled, and the (M1-M8) as follows, see chart at the bottom of the page:
edges are finished with i-cord or ribbing.
k (6)7(7)8(8)8(9)9(9) sts (½ back), place M1
Seed rib k 7 sts (raglan), place M2
1st row/rnd (RS): Knit all sts k (8)8(8)8(8)8(10)10(10) sts (sleeve), place M3
2nd row (WS)/rnd (RS): *k 1 r, p 1*, repeat from * to * to k 7 sts (raglan), place M4
the end of the row/rnd. k (19)21(21)23(23)23(25)25(25) sts (front), place M5
Note! The purl stitches are stacked on top of each other, k 7 sts (raglan), place M6
creating a vertical, rib-like structure. k (8)8(8)8(8)8(10)10(10) sts (sleeve), place M7
k 7 sts (raglan), place M8
These two rows are repeated throughout the entire work. k (7)8(8)9(9)9(10)10(10) sts (½ back)

Raglan Stitches NOTE! Break the yarn, and move sts from the left needle
The raglan seam consists of 7 stitches, worked in pattern. to the right needle until you reach M5, just before the
raglan st between the front and sleeve. You are now
1st row/rnd (RS): p 2, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 2 ready to knit a row from the RS.
2nd round (RS): p 2, k 3, p 2
Short Rows
On WS rows, work the raglan stitches as follows: Now work pattern and short rows at the markers as
2nd row (WS): k 2, p 3, k 2 indicated below.

NOTE! the difference between the 2nd row (when NOTE! See the chart below, which shows the placement
working back and forth) and the 2nd round (when of the short rows.
working in the round).
1st row (RS): M1R, MM5, 7 raglan sts, MM6, M1L, k to M7,
After the short rows, work increases at the raglan M1R, MM7, 7 sts, MM8, M1L, k to M1, M1R, turn on the
markers as follows: sts before M1.

1. row/rnd (RS): *Knit to marker, M1R, Move Marker 2nd row (WS): Work seed rib back to M8, turn on the sts
(MM), 7 raglan sts, MM, M1L* repeat from * to * to the before M8.
end of rnd.

Center back = M0

M8 M1
M7 M2
2 1
4 3

6 Sleeve Sleeve 5

8 7
10 9
12 14 16 18 15 13 11
20 19 17
M6 M3
M5 M4
Center front

= Raglan seam

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3rd row (RS): M1L, k to M1, M1R, MM1, 7 raglan sts, MM2, Like this:
M1L, turn. (55)59(61)67(71)75(81)87(89) sts (back),
7 sts (raglan),
4th row (WS): k 1, MM2, 7 raglan sts, MM1, work seed rib (47)49(51)55(59)63(69)75(77) sts (sleeve),
to M8, MM8, 7 raglan sts, MM7, turn. 7 sts (raglan),
(55)59(61)67(71)75(81)87(89) sts (front),
5th row (RS): M1R, MM7, 7 raglan sts, MM8, M1L, k to 7 sts (raglan),
M1, M1R, MM1, 7 raglan sts, MM2, M1L, k to M3, (47)49(51)55(59)63(69)75(77) sts (sleeve),
M1R, turn. 7 sts (raglan)

6th row (WS): Work seed rib (start with k 1, p 1 at M3) to Continue working in seed rib until the work
M2, MM2, 7 raglan sts, MM1, work seed rib to M8, MM8, measures(21)22(23)24(25)26(27)28(29)cm /
7 raglan sts, MM7, work seed rib to M6 (start with k 1 or (8.5)8.5(9)9.5(10)10.5(11)11.5 inches from the neckline at
p 1 at M7, so you can finish with p 1 right before M6), the shoulder and down. See the drawing below.
turn before M6.

7th row (RS): M1L, k to M7, M1R, MM7, 7 raglan sts,

MM8, M1L, k to M1, M1R, MM1, 7 raglan sts, MM2, M1L,
k to M3, M1R, MM3, 7 raglan sts, MM4, M1L.

NOTE! Break the yarn.

You now have (96)100(100)104(104)104(112)112(112) sts.

Divide the work as follows:
Like this: *Place the next (47)49(51)55(59)63(69)75(77)
(21)23(23)25(25)25(27)27(27) sts (back), sts (sleeve) on a stitch holder, cast on
7 sts (raglan), (7)7(9)9(9)11(11)11(13) sts in continuation of sts
(13)13(13)13(13)13(15)15(15) sts (sleeve), on the needle, knit 7 stitches from the raglan,
7 sts (raglan), (55)59(61)67(71)75(81)87(89) sts from the front piece,
(21)23(23)25(25)25(27)27(27) sts (front), 7 sts from the raglan*, repeat from * to * once more, and
7 sts (raglan), break the yarn.
(13)13(13)13(13)13(15)15(15) sts (sleeve),
7 sts (raglan). Place a marker in the middle stitch under each sleeve.
Choose one side as BOR and join the yarn there.
Move the stitches from the left needle to the right
needle without knitting them, and attach the yarn at M1, There are now (152)160(168)180(188)200(208)224(232)
this is now BOR. sts on the body.

The next round is a seed rib round WITHOUT increases. NOTE! Make a note of which pattern row you’ve
reached when you divide, so you can continue correctly
Seed rib pattern in the round in the pattern when you reach the sleeves.
1st rnd: Knit raglan stitches as previously described, and
work seed stitch rib on sleeves, front, and back, without Body
increases. Continue working in seed rib until the work measures
(44)45(46)47(48)49(50)51(52) cm / (17.5)17.5(18)18.5(19)
Increase round 19.5(20)20.5(21) inches from the shoulder to the bottom
2nd rnd: MM1, 7 raglan sts, MM2, M1L, k to M3, M1R, edge.
MM3, 7 raglan sts, MM4, M1L, k to M5, M1R, MM5,
7 raglan sts, MM6, M1L, k to M7, M1R, MM7, 7 raglan sts, Try the work on. An additional 10 cm / 4 inches of ribbing
MM8, M1L, k to M1, M1R. will be added. If the body needs to be shorter or longer,
adjust it here.
Repeat 1st and 2nd a total of:
(17)18(19)21(23)25(27)30(31) times. Finish with a round of knit sts.
Continue knitting on needle size 5 / US 8 and work
You now have (232)244(252)272(288)304(328)352 ribbing pattern *k 2, p 2*, repeat from * to * until the
(360) sts. ribbing measures 10 cm / 4 inches.

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 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Bind off using an Italian bind off. Ensure not to bind off Finish the sleeve with i-cord bind off
too tightly. NOTE! If you’ve knitted the sleeve without decreases
and want it narrower, you can finish with a round of seed
NOTE! You can watch the video here on how to bind stitchs, followed by a knit round where you knit
off with Italian bind off in 2 x 2 rib: https://www.youtube. *k 4, k2tog* as many times as possible in the entire round.
com/watch?v=qdcvX1m9_8Q
Turn the work and now work i-cord bind off from the
Sleeves wrong side as follows:
Place the sleeve’s (47)49(51)55(59)63(69)75(77) sts onto Cast on 5 new sts in continuation of the sts on needle.
circular needle size 5 / US 8 . Knit (3)3(4)4(4)5(5)5(6) *k 4, k2tog-tbl (one stitch from the sleeve sts). Move 5
sts, continue in seed stitch pattern over the sts on the sts back to the left needle, with the yarn in the back of
needle, knit an additional (3)3(4)4(4)5(5)5(6) sts in the work*. Repeat from * to * until all sts are bound off
continuation of the needle. with an i-cord. Break the yarn and sew i-cord stitches
together with a kitchener sts.
Place a marker for BOR in the middle sts under the Work the second sleeve in the same manner.
sleeve and join in the round. PM in the middle under the
sleeve. Finish the sleeve with ribbed edges
There are now (53)55(59)63(67)73(79)85(89) sts. Try the work on. An additional 10 cm / 4 inches of ribbing
will be added. If the sleeves need to be shorter or longer,
Sleeve without decreases adjust it here.
Decrease 1 st at the beginning of the next round, so you
have an even number of stitches. Knit one round where you randomly k2tog.

Continue working straight down in seed rib Continue knitting on needle size 5 / US 8 and work
without decreases until the sleeve measures ribbing pattern: *k 2, p 2* repeat from * to * until the
(36)36(36)36(35)33(32)31(31) cm / (14)14(14)14(13.5)13 ribbing measures 10 cm / 4 inches. Bind off using an
(12.5)12(12) inches from the armhole if you are knitting Italian bind off as on the body. Ensure not to bind off too
ribbed edges. tightly.

Or (46)46(46)46(45)43(42)41(41) cm / Neck hem

(18)18(18)18(18)17(16.5)16(16) inches from the armhole if Try on the sweater. If the neckline needs to be adjusted
you are knitting i-cord edges. in size, it should be done before knitting the neck hem.
If it needs to be smaller, do so by knitting one round as
Try the work on. An additional 10 cm / 4 inches of ribbing follows: *k 9, k2tog* repeat from * to * as many times as
will be added if you are knitting ribbing edges. If the possible.
sleeves needs to be shorter or longer, adjust it here.
Unravel the crocheted provisional cast-on and place
Sleeve with decreases (76)80(80)84(84)84(92)92(92) sts on circular needle
Work seed stitch rib on all sts of the sleeve, knit the two size 5 / US (and attach yarn color A + yarn color B.
sts in the middle, under the arm on all rounds. Knit 2
rounds and then begin decreases. Finish the neckline with an i-cord bind off
Knit 1 rnd from RS. Turn work and knit i-cord bind off, like
Decrease round on sleeves.
K 1, k2tog, work seed rib until there are 3 sts left, SSK, k 1. Finish the neckline with a turtle neck
Work a decrease round every Continue knitting on needle size 5 / US 8 and work
(13.)11.(11.)8.(8.)7.(6.)5.(4.) rounds a total of ribbing pattern *k 2, p 2*, repeat from * to * until the
(6)7(7)9(9)10(11)12(14) times. ribbing measures 20 cm / 8 inches. Bind off using an
You now have (41)41(45)45(49)53(57)61(61) sts. Italian bind off. Ensure not to bind off too tightly.
Finish the neckline with a folded hem
Work straight down in seed rib until the sleeve measures Work as for the neckline with turtle neck until the ribbing
(36)36(36)36(35)33(32)31(31) cm / (14)14(14)14(13.5)13 measures 10 cm / 4 inches, then bind off loosely.
(12.5)12(12) inches from the armhole if you are knitting Fold the ribbing inward and neatly sew it down with loose
ribbed edges. stitches. Check along the way that you can still fit your
head through.
Or (46)46(46)46(45)43(42)41(41) cm / Assembly
(18)18(18)18(18)17(16.5)16(16) inches from the armhole if Weave the ends in as invisibly as possible to make the
you are knitting i-cord edges. sweater reversible.

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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Ellens sweater_UK_20240214
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Abbreviations and
techniques
These are our standardized abbreviations and techniques, CDD – Centered Double Decrease
which are included with every knitting pattern. Some of Slip 2 stitches together knit-wise (as if to knit them
the abbreviations and techniques are described in the together), k1, pass the slipped stitches over the one just
actual knitting pattern as well. knitted.

beg – begin(ing) Work stitches as set

cm – centimeter(s) Knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stiches.
dec - decrease
ES – edge stitch M1 – Make 1 stitch (increase)
inc - increase Lift the strand of yarn running between the stitches
k - knit onto the needle, then knit it through the back loop.
k2tog – (decrease) knit 2 stitches together
kwise – knitwise (as if to knit) mm – millimeter(s) M1R – Make 1 stitch leaning to the right.
MM - move marker - shift marker from left to right nee- With the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between
dle and knit on the stitches from behind. Knit this strand through the
M1 – marker in color 1 front loop, thus creating a stitch twisted to the right.
M2 – marker in color 2
p – purl M1L – Make 1 stitch leaning to the left.
PM – place marker With the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between
psso – pass slipped stitch over pwise – purlwise (as if to the stitches from the front. Knit this strand through the
purl) rnd(s) – round(s) back loop, thus creating a stitch twisted to the left.
RS – right side
sl – slip st(s) – stitch(es) RLI – Right Lifted Increase
sl1 purlwise – slip 1 st as if to purl Insert the right needle into the stitch below the next
sl1 knitwise – slip 1 st as if to knit stitch on the needle. Insert the needle through the back
SM – slip marker of the stitch on the WS and knit it. Knit the original stitch
tbl – through the back loop on the needle.
tog – together
WS – wrong side
wyib – with yarn in back
wyif – with yarn in front
yo – yarn over
ssk – Slip, Slip, Knit (decrease)
Slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit. Insert the
left needle into the fronts of these two stitches and knit LLI – Left Lifted Increase
them together through the back loops. Knit the next stitch on the needle. Now insert the left
needle into the stitch 2 stitches below the stitch on the
Pockets right needle. Insert the left needle through front of the
1. 2. stitch on the RS and lift it onto the left needle before
knitting it.

3.

Stretchy bind-off
Work this bind-off rather tightly.
K2, insert left needle into both sts from left to right and k
the 2 sts together through the back loop.

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*Work 1 st (there are once again 2 sts on the right needle), Knit all but the last of these same stitches once again, slip
insert left needle into both sts from left to right and k the the last stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.*
2 sts together through the back loop*. Repeat from * to *
throughout. Repeat from * to * until all the edge stitches have
been bound off. Unless otherwise stated, bind off the
Short rows remaining live stitches of the I-cord itself.
Work to the place indicated by the pattern. Now work
a “wrap and turn” as follows: Holding the yarn in front I-cord
of the work, slip the next stitch from the left to the Cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern
right-hand needle as if to purl. Move the yarn to the back, on a double-pointed needle, so the working yarn hangs
then slip the same stitch back to the left-hand needle. to the left side of the stitches. Do not turn the needle, but
Turn the work and continue as indicated. You have now slide the stitches to the right end of the needle. *Slip the
“wrapped” the yarn around the slipped stitch. working yarn behind these new stitches to begin work,
knit stitches with a second double-pointed needle. Do
When later working this stitch, pick up the wrap and place not turn the needle, but slide the stitches to the right end
it onto the needle, then work it together with the stitch of the needle*. Repeat from * to * until the I-cord is the
itself (knit or purl as indicated by the pattern). correct length.

3-needle bind-off To finish the I-cord, break the yarn and pull the end
Place the 2 pieces of knitting right side against right side through all the stitches on the needle before weaving it in.
and knit them together with a third needle. Knit the first
st on each needle together, *knit the next stitch on each Crocheted provisional cast-on.
needle together and pull the loose st over*. Repeat from * With a contrasting length of scrap yarn, work the desired
to * until all sts are bound off. number of crochet chains around the knitting needle. Chain
a few extra stitches free of the needle before securing the
I-cord bind-off end – but don’t secure it too tightly, as you will need to undo
Cast on the indicated number of stitches for the I-cord it later in order to “unzip” the cast-on. Begin knitting by
(unless you are starting with the stitches of an already working into the stitches on the needle.
established I-cord). Slip the I-cord stitches onto the nee- To undo the cast-on, untie the end of the scrap yarn, pull it
dle to the right of the stitches to be bund off, so that the out of the knitting and place the resulting live stitches onto
working yarn hangs between the I-cord stitches and the a knitting needle to be worked as indicated in the pattern.
stitches to be bound off. 1. 2. 3.

Slip the working yarn behind the I-cord stitches to begin

work. Knit to the last of the I-cord stitches, slip the last
stitch knitwise, knit the first of the edge stitches, then pass
the slipped stitch over.
4. 5.
*Do not turn work. With the yarn in back, slip the stitches
just worked back onto the left-hand needle. Slip the work-
ing yarn behind these stitches to begin work.

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Measuring the armhole size? Please make sure that you have thought these things
The armhole length is measured in a straight line from through before knitting the final garment.
the bottom of the armhole to the top of the shoulder.
To get the right garment measurements, you need to
stick to the gauge indicated in the pattern. This requires
shoulder
that you make a swatch – see Getting the gauge right by
making a swatch.

It is just as important that you ”try on” your knitwear as

best you can during the knitting process to decide if any
adjustments are needed. I always try the garment on many
armhole

times in the knitting process to make sure it will fit me.

This is were you
measure the I have often heard of knitters finishing a piece that ends
armhole. up being too large or too small. That is such a shame and
waste of time – so my advice is always to invest a bit of
time in measuring and trying on!
It is just as important that you ”try on” your knitwear as
best you can during the knitting process to decide if any
adjustments are needed. I always try the garment on many
times in the knitting process to make sure it will fit me.

I have often heard of knitters finishing a piece that ends

up being too large or too small. That is such a shame and
Getting the gauge right by making a swatch waste of time – so my advice is always to invest a bit of
Getting the gauge right by making a swatch We highly time in measuring and trying on!
recommend that you make a 15 x 15 cm swatch of your
knitwear before starting to knit. This swatch should be at Washing, steaming and maintaining your knitwear
least 10 x 10 cm excluding edges. We always recommend that you wash your final knitwear
as it changes shape and form during wash. If you have a
You need to check if your gauge is the same as indicated in newer washing machine with a gentle wool cycle, it should
the knitting pattern to decide whether you need to adjust be safe to wash your knitwear in the washing machine
your needle size up or down. If you don’t do this, you risk using the wool cycle at max 30 degrees Celsius. Other-
spending many hours knitting something that can end up wise, we recommend washing your knitwear by hand at a
being either too large or too small. We know it is not the temperature of max 30 degrees Celsius.
most exciting task, but we strongly recommend that you
knit a sample every time you start a new piece of knitwear. Do NOT wring the knitwear but place it soaking wet in
a protective washing bag and spin it in the washing
Procedure: Work a swatch of minimum 15 x 15 cm in the machine at max 800 RPM.
indicated texture or pattern, and wash it carefully with
wool detergent or mild shampoo in lukewarm water in the Leave the knitwear to dry on a flat surface on a towel or
sink. Let it dry and steam it using an iron held 2 cm above a drying rack. Don’t hang it up to dry as the knitwear will
the sample. Then measure. expand.

Washing and steaming your swatch before measuring is Use wool detergent or a mild shampoo (after all, wool is
important, as the shape and form of knitwear can change hair) and always in very small amounts when you wash
quite a bit during wash. Steaming the swatch smoothens your knitwear. Only wash your knitwear when it is really
the stitches and makes it easier to measure. needed. Most often it is enough to leave your knitwear out
in the fresh air for a while.
Measure and try on
Your tape measure is one of your most important tools Steam your garment when you want to smooth or
when knitting. To determine which size you need, you freshen it, as steam has almost the same effect as
should start by taking your own measurements. Read washing. But remember not to iron directly on the
through the pattern to see how the measurements of the knitwear. Put lots of steam on your iron and hold it at least
design will fit you. Do you need to shorten or lengthen 2 cm above the knitwear. You can also place a clean, damp
the sleeves? Or the body? Have you selected the correct dishtowel between the knitwear and the iron.

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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would like a pattern as well, then remember that they can buy it at oenling.com
Ellens sweater_UK_20240214
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

www.oenling.com
Önling Knit / Önling Knit Community
@oenling / @katrinehannibal
#oenlingknit #oenling #katrinehannibal

If you need help for this pattern, please send a mail to: [email protected]

Önling - Rosenkaeret 14, 2. – DK-2860 Soeborg – Denmark

+45 21 25 25 25 – [email protected] - www.oenling.com

© Önling. The pattern is for private use only and may not be re-sold. The pattern may not be copied.
All rights reserved. Text and photos are protected according to the law of copyrights and may not be re-produced without
written permission from Önling.
This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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would like a pattern as well, then remember that they can buy it at oenling.com
Ellens sweater_UK_20240214