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KEIRA KNIGHTLEY wears a COCO CRUSH ring

and bracelets in white and beige gold with diamonds.
chanel.com
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CONTENTS

“The glorious
plumes and night-
flowering blooms of the
pre-collections are a
midwinter pick-me-up”
Flights of fancy,
page 138

Regulars 56 Five cues from the catwalk

A quintuplet of sartorial signals from
33 Editor’s letter
the resort 2020 runways
38 Notices
58 Delicate work
Meet the faces behind the issue
Tread carefully when balancing fragile
98 Checklist Victoriana with stomping boots
Classic colours to take you
61 The vintage-bag renaissance
through winter
How the retro crossbody got a chic,
192 Stockists modern makeover
64 Vogue darling
Vogue trends Step into the world of model
47 ON THE COVER Emilia Boateng
How to do preppy now 67 Share and share alike Vogue Talent Contest 2019
Collegiate stripes plus floral flourishes Three couples, three wardrobes…
result in a first-class honours in style 84 And the winners are…
Interviews by Ellie Pithers
50 Yesterday once more Mr Vogue
Seventies screen style remixed for now Jewellery & watches 87 Beautiful stranger
HARLEY WEIR

54 The new safari suiting 72 Long story short Actor Earl Cave, son of Nick, on
Your guide to the season’s most Rachel Garrahan cuts to the chase in a playing the outsider
functional yet feminine look contemporary tale of collar necklaces
Vogue living
Arts & culture Above: feather
88 Paris by the sea gilet, £4,600,
79 Dangerous liaisons The bright and breezy Deauville Ralph Lauren
There’s a feminist bent to BBC One’s bolthole of Maje’s Judith Milgrom. Collection.
new take on Britain’s 1960s Profumo Vintage hat,
By Hayley Maitland courtesy
scandal. Sophie Cookson and Ellie of Academy
Bamber – stars of the upcoming six- 92 Life & style Costumes
part drama – talk to Giles Hattersley Julia Sarr-Jamois’ January hit list
about remaking history Archive
94 Starting lines
Vogue’s January 1920 allusion to young
COVER LOOK women’s new-found independence,
Taylor Swift wears archive Métiers d’art Paris- interpreted by Robin Muir
New York 2005/2006 collection tweed jacket embellished
with navy and red trim. Archive a/w ’18 cotton blouse.
Both Chanel. Vintage Chanel clip earrings, £695, Susan Viewpoint
Caplan. Get the look: make-up by Pat McGrath Labs.
Eyes: Mthrshp Sublime Bronze Ambition Palette, Xtreme
Eye Duo. Lips: Obsessive Opulence: MatteTrance Lipstick
96 All tomorrow’s parties
in Christy. Skin: Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection In her early teens, drink, drugs and
The System Foundation. Hair by Redken. Pillow
Proof Blow Dry Express Primer Treatment Cream. oblivion were pretty much all Lizzie
Hair: Guido Palau. Colourist: Victoria Hunter. Tarran could think about. So where
Make-up: Pat McGrath. Nails: Megumi Yamamoto.
Styling: Edward Enninful. Photograph: Craig McDean did she find the strength to get sober? > 24

23
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CONTENTS

“Femininity meets all-out

practicality – this season’s
safari silhouette offers the
best of both worlds”
The new safari suiting,
page 54

Fashion & features

126 ON THE COVER
Oh, Taylor!
Taylor Swift talks Cats,
collaboration and country music
with Andrew Lloyd Webber.
Photographs by Craig McDean.
Styling by Edward Enninful
138 Flights of fancy
Wrap yourself in whimsy
with the heavenly pre-collections.
Photographs by Harley Weir.
Styling by Julia Sarr-Jamois
150 ON THE COVER
Waste not
At last, the fashion industry is taking
a stand on sustainability. Journalist
Tamsin Blanchard investigates, while
Vogue contributing fashion director
Kate Phelan embraces the move.
Photographs by Craig McDean
164 ON THE COVER
Bright young things
Vogue introduces the cultural
trailblazers set to shape the future.
Photographs by Scott Trindle.
Styling by Patrick Mackie
178 Plain sailing
When Giorgio Armani invited
Beauty & wellness Anders Christian Madsen aboard
112 Mod-ern mood his superyacht. Photographs by
105 Sealed with a kiss Your step-by-step guide to Danilo Scarpati
Lip balms to soothe and soften. Pucker remodelling 1960s hair and
up, says Kathleen Baird-Murray make-up for the new decade 184 Work up
Office memo: your guide to
106 Night vision 117 ON THE COVER ascending the career ladder in
Remain the image of perfection in Express yourself
party make-up with staying power elegantly elevated workwear.
Super-speedy workouts that Photographs by Matt Easton.
108 Director’s cut still pack a punch, tried and tested Styling by Dena Giannini
Take five: Kathleen Baird-Murray’s by Lauren Murdoch-Smith
pick of products to see you into 2020
118 Beauty musings Vogue asks
111 Talkin’ bout a resolution Prepare to be the best you… 220 What would Jada Pinkett
Words of wisdom for the year ahead, New year, new beauty finds from Smith do?
CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER

from Vogue’s contributing beauty editors Lauren Murdoch-Smith The actor and host takes our quiz

SUBSCRIBE TO Turn to page 60 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift
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Perlée Collection
Bracelets, white gold
and diamonds.

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

9 NEW BOND STREET - HARRODS - SELFRIDGES

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Left: in Oh, Taylor!,

on page 126,
this month’s cover
star is interviewed
by her recent
collaborator Andrew
Lloyd Webber.
Far left: Edward
Enninful and Taylor
Swift at Vogue’s
2019 Bafta party

whom were aged 25 or under and world can feel more serious by the
passionately engaged with making sense minute – divided, uncertain, draining.
of the world around them. As my thoughts turned to Vogue’s first
Meeting the finalists is an experience edition of a new decade, this uncertain

In the early
that I always enjoy, and this time was state was much on my mind. Ultimately,
no exception. How refreshing it was to I knew that I wanted the January issue

autumn…
spend a couple of hours talking with of 2020 to be woven through with
those just starting out in their chosen a concept all too easy to forget amid
fields. As is often the way with creatives, the noise: hope.
and certainly young ones, I was struck Turn to page 164, for example, and
CRAIG McDEAN; JAMES D KELLY

of each year, I host a lunch at Vogue by how – despite being unafraid to tackle you will find our Bright Young Things
House to meet the finalists of our Talent personal or political subjects through portfolio, a roll-call of the most
Contest. Since its launch in 1951, this the prism of fashion – this gifted exciting faces set to shape the years
annual initiative has sought to discover generation seems to be living somewhere ahead. Much as Louise Brooks, Louis
the most promising new writing talent between positivity and panic. Armstrong or F Scott Fitzgerald
and, as of 2018, photographers, too. Some days, it can feel like we all became shorthand for the 1920s, expect
Nine entrants made the 2019 final – five live there. As the din of national and actors including Indya Moore and
writers and four image-makers – all of international politics increases, the Austin Butler, musicians such as >

33
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EDITOR’S LETTER

Above: from left, Little Simz and Sophie, artist Jadé

Patsy Ferran,
Himesh Patel, Honor Fadojutimi, writer Jia Tolentino and all
Swinton Byrne… those who star in this shoot to become
Get acquainted with
the 25 names to know
synonymous with the 2020s.
now, on page 164. Reading their stories, I feel instantly
Above right: discover more positive. Whether it’s the new
how to reduce,
reuse and recycle the collective of London-based fashion
Vogue way (Waste talents redrawing the rules of artistic
Not, page 150). collaboration, or the British-Asian actor
Cotton trench coat,
£1,600. Archive Himesh Patel working at a time when
rollneck sweater. his ethnicity is no longer a barrier to
Both Bottega Veneta.
Jersey dress, £775.
being cast in a wide range of roles, I am season, it is a thoughtful template for
Jersey trousers, £650. excited for the changes that we are what a more sustainable notion of
Fringed leather mules, beginning to see all around us. Even luxury can look like.
£595. All Balenciaga.
Hat, from £45, writing down “the ’20s”, it’s impossible As, indeed, is this month’s cover.
Outdoor Research. not to feel a little bit of a thrill. Is there To herald a new decade, Taylor Swift
Right: satin, feathers a past decade more famous for its fronts Vogue wearing archive Chanel
and va-va-volume
in Flights of Fancy, glamour, drama and style? – and looks effortlessly, endlessly
on page 138 That said, I’d suggest that our modern in the process. Taylor, as
aspirations are a little more nuanced anyone lucky enough to spend time
than they were a hundred years ago. with her will know, is one of the most
If the 1920s were a hardscrabble time positive, forward-thinking people you
CRAIG McDEAN; SCOTT TRINDLE; HARLEY WEIR

when luxury was a straightforward could ever wish to meet, and a dream
concept to covet, in the 2020s we find cover star for this moment in time.
ourselves in a different place, mindful Welcome to the ’20s!
of the world we all inhabit. In Waste
Not, photographed by Craig McDean,
on page 150, contributing fashion
director Kate Phelan offers a new-
meets-old way of dressing for the future.
Mixing archive and vintage from as far
back as 35 years ago with exquisite new
pieces commissioned from deadstock,
as well as elements from the current

34
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NOTICES Photographer Scott Trindle

captured the roster of rising
stars set to define the 2020s
Turn to page 84 to discover the winning in Bright Young Things, on
works from 2019’s Vogue Talent Contest. page 164. What excites him
Together, editor-in-chief Edward Enninful about the new decade?
and a panel of Vogue staff looked through “Hearing my little boy, Ted,
hundreds of entries to choose one writer speak his first words… and
and one photographer. So what did it then probably censoring
mean to Oulayma Conteh (left), 21, to him 10 years later.”
learn that her portraits had earned a top
spot? “Everything and more. I get to
share what the world looks like through
my eyes and have fun doing what I love.”
Meanwhile, Imani Thompson (far left),
also 21, wrote her prize-winning essay on
re-framing her relationship with nature:
“I have been trying to turn my eco-anxiety
into eco-curiosity,” she says.

MEET & GREET

Introducing the faces behind
this month’s issue

When it came to interviewing

Taylor Swift (on page 126)
about her musical-movie debut
in Cats, there was only one
man for the job: Andrew Lloyd
Webber, composer of the
original West End and
Broadway mega hit. The two
colossi of songwriting had
plenty to discuss at a recording
studio in north London (left) –
art, ambition and authenticity,
plus what we can expect from
the soon-to-be-released film.

Vogue: What was it like

to work with Taylor?
Andrew Lloyd Webber:
She’s supremely professional
and very charming with it.
In my view, she could go far.
What was your first
impression of her?
She’s a lot taller than me,
and a lot more attractive.
What’s your favourite
Swift hit?
“Blank Space” from the album
1989. It’s a great pop song
with great lyrics.

COMPILED BY TIMOTHY HARRISON. ALEXA BENDAK; RICHARD BURBRIDGE; PETER

COBBIN; OULAYMA CONTEH; MARK DOERFEL; PETER YENDELL; GETTY IMAGES

Paloma Elsesser joined an

all-star cast of models in New
York for Work Up, on page 184.
Her top tips for things to do in
the city? “Rescue Spa (above)
near Gramercy Park; Hasaki
In Waste Not, on page 150, (top left) in the East Village
Tamsin Blanchard writes of fashion’s for sushi; and the New York
sustainability wake-up call. What Public Library on 5th Avenue
gives the journalist hope in the face (far left). I used to sit there
of climate crisis? “A new generation of between castings in the summer
designers making clothes that provide when I first started modelling.
more solutions than problems.” It feels like home.”

38
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EDWARD ENNINFUL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CREATIVE DIRECTOR JOHAN SVENSSON

DEPUTY EDITOR & FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR SARAH HARRIS
MANAGING EDITOR MARK RUSSELL
FEATURES DIRECTOR GILES HATTERSLEY
DIGITAL DIRECTOR ANNE-MARIE TOMCHAK
EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH ABABIO
EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR SOEY KIM
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT ZOE EDMUND-JONES

CONTRIBUTING FASHION DIRECTORS VENETIA SCOTT, KATE PHELAN

STYLE DIRECTOR DENA GIANNINI
FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR LAURA INGHAM
FASHION & ACCESSORIES EDITOR DONNA WALLACE
SENIOR CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITOR POPPY KAIN
FASHION EDITOR-AT-LARGE JULIA SARR-JAMOIS
FASHION ASSISTANTS CAROLINA AUGUSTIN,
ENIOLA DARE, JESSICA GERARDI, REBECCA PURSHOUSE
JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT THALIA METALLINOU
JEWELLERY & WATCH DIRECTOR RACHEL GARRAHAN
MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS BENJAMIN BRUNO, GRACE CODDINGTON,
JANE HOW, JOE McKENNA, SARAH RICHARDSON, MARIE-AMELIE SAUVE
CONTRIBUTING JEWELLERY DIRECTOR CAROL WOOLTON

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FASHION FEATURES EDITOR & SENIOR ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR ELLIE PITHERS
SHOPPING EDITOR NAOMI SMART
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BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR JESSICA DINER

ACTING BEAUTY & LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR KATHLEEN BAIRD-MURRAY
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BEAUTY EDITOR-AT-LARGE PAT McGRATH
CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY EDITORS VAL GARLAND, SAM McKNIGHT,
GUIDO PALAU, CHARLOTTE TILBURY

FEATURES EDITOR OLIVIA MARKS

EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE (SPECIAL PROJECTS) TIMOTHY HARRISON
FEATURES ASSISTANT AMEL MUKHTAR
ENTERTAINMENT DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE JILL DEMLING
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DESIGN DIRECTOR JAN-NICO MEYER

SENIOR DESIGNER EILIDH WILLIAMSON
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ART CO-ORDINATOR BEN EVANS
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VOGUE.CO.UK
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
ADWOA ABOAH, LAURA BAILEY, JULIA BRENARD, SINEAD BURKE, LAURA BURLINGTON, NAOMI CAMPBELL, VASSI CHAMBERLAIN, ALEXA CHUNG,
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SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES EMAIL [email protected]
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TRENDS

HOW TO DO
PREPPY NOW
SOPHIE DURHAM. MODELS: THIALDA BOK; SIJIA KANG; IMARI KARANJA; JILL KORTLEVE; ROCIO MARCONI
HAIR: ROKU ROPPONGI. MAKE-UP: KRISTINA RALPH ANDREWS. NAILS: JENNI DRAPER. SET DESIGN:

Resort 2020’s collegiate stripes and rugby shirts

come with a twist. Worn over or under microflorals
or floaty dresses, they find fresh appeal.
Photographs by Clay Stephen Gardner.
Edited by Naomi Smart. Styling by Donna Wallace
From left: Jill wears cotton
shirt, £620. Silk shirt, tied at
waist, £680. Skirt, £680. All
Jil Sander. Floral-print blouse,
£165, Gerard Darel. Shoes,
£555, Prada. Earrings, £150,
Links of London. Rocio wears
polo shirt, £800, Michael Kors
Collection. Blouse, £529,
Horror Vacui. Skirt, £125,
Kitri. Boots, £984, Chloé.
Socks, £16, Falke. Earrings,
from £95, Anni Lu. Watch,
£2,400, Hermès. Imari wears
dress, £2,135. Hi-tops, £515.
Bag, £1,220. All Prada. Belt,
£395, Jimmy Choo. Socks,
£15.50, Scott-Nichol. Earrings,
£185, Dinosaur Designs

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TRENDS
Dress, £3,085,
Chloé. Shirt, £99,
Boss. Earrings, from
£350 each, Dior

“Think of shirting as you would a

poloneck: it’s the best way to get
mileage out of your favourite
summer dresses”
NAOMI SMART
SHOPPING EDITOR

CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER; PIXELATE.BIZ

Clockwise from
top right: shirt,
£145, Essentiel
Antwerp. Skirt,
£295, Margaret
Howell. Shirt, from
£730, Ellery. Top,
£130, Woolrich.
Shoes, £675,
Giuseppe Zanotti.
Bag, £990, Burberry.
Earrings, £10,288,
Irene Neuwirth

48
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TRENDS From left: Thialda wears

blouse, £275, Coach 1941.
Culottes, £2,380, Gucci.
Boots, £1,465, Valentino
Garavani. Bag, £1,655, Loro
Piana. Earrings, £188, Lizzie
Fortunato, at Matchesfashion.
com. Ring, from £360, Aurélie
Bidermann. Jill wears jacket,
£1,005, Frame. Shirt, £1,290.
Skirt, £2,050. Both Valentino.
Boots, £1,655, Loro Piana.
Earrings, from a selection,
Chloé. Necklace, from £1,250,
Elhanati. Sijia wears dress,
£2,400, Miu Miu. Boots, £805,
Longchamp. Necklace, £230,
Rochas. Watch, £2,400,
Hermès. Ring, from £360,
Aurélie Bidermann. Rocio
wears jacket, £1,093, Petar
Petrov, at Net-a-Porter.com.
Poloneck, £690. Mules,
from £780. Both Givenchy.
Trousers, £365, Camilla &
Marc, at Farfetch.com. Bag,
£2,350, Louis Vuitton

A
mazon Prime accounts at the
ready – the coming months
are set to be dominated by
a revival of 1970s screen
style, and an afternoon spent revisiting
the sirens of the era is in order. Barbra
Streisand in The Way We Were, Jane

YESTERDAY
Fonda in Klute and Faye Dunaway in
Network are all the sort of woman
whose high-waisted leathers and
buttoned-up blouses have enduring

once MORE
appeal (and, as such, each has secured
her position on plenty of designers’
moodboards). With suede jackets,
snakeskin-print boots and jewel tones

Refined retro has never looked so right.

aplenty, the decade’s suavest pieces are
back with a vengeance. The way to
make them modern? By elevating the
aesthetic into polished elegance. There’s
Take the lead in a glamorous homage
not a moth hole in sight. Olivia Singer to the screen stars of the 1970s

50
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CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER

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ASPINALOFLONDON.COM TEL: + 44 (0) 1428 648180

WESTFIELD HARRODS SELFRIDGES BROOK ST W 1 REGENT ST ST PANCRAS CANARY WHARF BLUEWATER LEEDS
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TRENDS
6

8
3

10

“Seventies nuances are a subtler

way to go: a skinny-strap shoulder bag or a belted

high waist point to the decade”
SARAH HARRIS
DEPUTY EDITOR

5 11

1 Shirt, £280, Equipment, at Net-a-Porter.com.

GORUNWAY; PIXELATE.BIZ

2 Belted coat, £1,920, Diane von Furstenberg.

3 Sweater, £990, Khaite, at Matchesfashion.com.
4 Earrings, £195, Mulberry. 5 Bangles, £250
MIU MIU

each, Tilly Sveaas. 6 Watch, £8,900, Cartier.

7 Belted dress, £450, Kate Spade New York.
8 Bag, £1,815, Valentino Garavani. 9 Skirt, £665,
, at Matchesfashion.com. 10 Boots,
£950, Jimmy Choo. 11 Necklace, £735, Goossens

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TRENDS From left: Sijia

wears jacket, from
£1,206. Trousers, from
£318. Both Deveaux.
Mules, £940, Bottega
Veneta. Bracelet, £520,
Chanel. Rocio wears
jacket, £4,240. Trousers,
£2,610. Belt, £870.
All Chanel. Loafers,
£130, GH Bass. Bag,
£500, Jil Sander.
Earrings, from £155,
Lizzie Fortunato

DIOR
PRADA

CHLOE

CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER; GORUNWAY; PIXELATE.BIZ

From far left: bag,

£425, Jacquemus.

The new
Slingbacks with
WEAR WITHÉ anklet detail, £350,
Alighieri. Both at
Net-a-Porter.com.

SAFARI SUITING
Above, from top:
jacket, £2,420.
Skirt, £1,470. Both
Co, at Neiman

Femininity meets all-out practicality – with a marcus.com

nipped-in waist and plenty of pockets, this season’s

safari silhouette offers the best of both worlds
54
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5 CUES
FROM
THE
CATWALK
After original ways to style old
favourites? Look to the resort
runways, says Naomi Smart

1
THE WESTERN-
JACKET
REBOOT
An embellished western jacket
– one that’s souped-up with
rhinestones, flair and fancy
FERRETTI
ALBERTA

(enough to make Lil Nas X

CHLOE
PRADA

green with envy) – will be your

next trophy purchase. Cowboy
style rode its way through
PER-SUEDED the resort collections, from
Christopher Kane to Louis
Pre-spring’s ubiquitous silhouettes recall 1970s thrift- Vuitton and Versace to Paco
store finds. Look to Alberta Ferretti, Chloé and Prada Rabanne. Partner up with
for statement suede, or drench yourself in a wave of retro dark, tailored denim.
colour – from tan to teal. The big takeaway here?
Left, from top: jacket,
A suede jacket, skirt or trench that wouldn’t have looked £2,360, Versace. Blazer,
out of place in Anita Pallenberg’s wardrobe. £890, Paco Rabanne

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From left: Imari

TRENDS
wears jacket,
£795, Christopher
Kane. Shirt,
£230, Equipment.
Jeans, £715,
Chloé. Thialda
wears jacket,
£5,210, Louis
Vuitton. Shirt,
£230, Equipment.
Jeans, £100,
Levi’s. Earrings,
£210, Alighieri

3
ZEBRA CROSSING

LOUIS VUITTON
Park leopard – for now. Animal
CHANEL

print will forever be in style, and

this season it’s zebra stripes that are
stampeding through fashion. Whether
punctuating a look with a striped
LEGS FOR DAYS accessory, or making a bigger splash
The 1980s legging has gone from gym-kit with a mesmerising all-over-print
drawer to serious wardrobe proposition (with A-line skirt, as seen at Sacai,
thanks to Chanel and Louis Vuitton). Whether zebra is winning the race.
a sporty tube or a smart stirrup, pull on the
stretch for a smooth, streamlined silhouette
that allows for almost anything up top – from
a tailored tweed blazer to a statement knit.

Hi-tops,
£454, Chloé

RUNAWAY SUCCESS
CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER; GORUNWAY; PIXELATE.BIZ

Above, from
We’ve had Louis Vuitton’s Archlight top: boots,
trainer, the Balenciaga Triple S and £865, Khaite,
at Net-a-Porter.
Loewe’s Ballet Runner (name a com. Bag,
luxury fashion house that hasn’t run a £325, Loeffler
trainer shape through the tracks of its Randall. Shirt,
£315. Trousers,
DNA), but the trainer to note now? £335. Both
Chloé’s Clint sneaker, reminiscent of Derek Lam
10 Crosby
a lace-up baseball boot with gum-
sole. Miuccia Prada was on a similar
pitch, where hi-tops were styled with
preppy pleated skirts. We’re sold.
SACAI
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TRENDS Dress, to order.

Choker, £1,350.
Ring, £270.
All Dior. Boots,
£720, Marni.
Socks, £15.50,
Scott-Nichol.
Earrings, from
£240, Aurélie
Bidermann

ALBERTA FERRETTI

GUCCI

Delicate work
The loveliest, airiest dresses suit all
seasons when paired with stomping boots
and weather-appropriate outerwear

WEAR WITHÉ

CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER; GORUNWAY; PIXELATE.BIZ

Clockwise from above: bag, £3,510, Chanel. Boots, £1,825,

The Row. Trench coat, £955, Bite. Dresses: right, from left,
linen, £2,160, Gabriela Hearst, at Matchesfashion.com.
Mikado, £3,290, Erdem. Faille, £705, Cecilie Bahnsen

58
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Fast-track your
career with our

COURSES
BA & MA degrees from the best
connected college in London
FIND OUT MORE AT:
www.condenastcollege.ac.uk/courses

Styling: Students at the Condé Nast College, Photography: Liam Jackson, Production: Sara Hassan
Hair & Make-up: Bethany Rich, Model: Franziska Klein at Profile, Clothes: Wear the Walk
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VOGUE
+FREE GIFT
+FREE DIGITAL
EDITIONS
FOR ONLY £12
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*Offer closes January 7th, 2020. The offer and gift are subject to availability and limited to UK addresses. The rate of 6 for £12 is limited to direct debit payments
and will be renewed at the rate of 6 for £19.50.
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TRENDS
From left: Sijia
wears blouse,
£395, CH Carolina
Herrera. Canvas
and leather bag,
£1,580, Gucci.
Jill wears blouse,
£1,050. Skirt,
£1,650. Patent-
leather bag,
£1,450. All Fendi

The vintage-bag
RENAISSANCE
With its gilded hardware, a Midas touch graces the crossbody 2.0.
Make like a 1970s Jacqueline Bisset and wear over the shoulder
CLAY STEPHEN GARDNER; PIXELATE.BIZ

Bags: above, from left, canvas and leather, £1,550, Celine by Hedi Slimane.
Quilted leather, £1,025, Balenciaga. Leather, £890, Etro
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ISTAN BU L KIEV KUALA LUMPUR MOSCOW PORTO R I YA D H

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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

Above, from left: Sasha

Sabapathy, Jemima Jones,
Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tamara
Lohan, Nikki Michelsen,
Olivia Marks, Elizabeth Haigh
and Ravinder Bhogal at
5 Days of Vogue Supper Club

On the night,
dishes such
as Wild by
Tart’s sticky
charred
venison
(centre),
were brought
alive by
Liberté
yogurt

The VOGUE ON A CRISP OCTOBER evening,

Wild By Tart founders Lucy Carr-
Ellison and Jemima Jones opened the
Reflecting the incredible talent in the
kitchen was a panel of accomplished
high-flyers, including Mr & Mrs Smith

Supper Club
doors of their spectacular London founder Tamara Lohan, the co-founder
Belgravia restaurant, to welcome 5 Days of organic tampon company Ohne,
of Vogue Supper Club guests for an Nikki Michelsen, and the brain behind
PARVEEN NAROWALIA. YOGURT IMAGE: @MONICABEATRICE WITH @UKINCA

unforgettable three-course dinner and Glow Bar, Sasha Sabapathy, all of whom
conversation with three trailblazing divulged their experiences of starting
As part of our inaugural 5 Days businesswomen. Liberté was the perfect
partner, and not only to the food – as a
a business to a captivated audience. A
dessert of spiced roasted pumpkin, miso
of Vogue Supper Club, Vogue and pioneering brand, founded in 1936, they ice cream and kaya caramel by Michelin-
Liberté celebrated female success know a thing or two about success, too. starred chef Elizabeth Haigh provided
After a chance to meet over champagne, the perfect end to an inspiring night. n
with a night of delicious food, drink guests were seated together at long flower- Crafted using traditional Greek methods
and discussion at Wild By Tart strewn tables where renowned Jikoni chef from 100 per cent natural ingredients
Ravinder Bhogal served up a starter of while using no artificial sweeteners or
silken tofu and black vinegar dressing with preservatives, Liberté, which is fat-free,
caramelised foxnuts. Next, Lucy and is strained based on the principles of old-
Jemima delivered their mains: platters of time cheesecloth draining, giving it an
sumptuous five-spiced sticky charred incredibly rich and creamy taste. Find
venison, brought alive with a spoon of out more at Liberte.co.uk and follow
thick, luscious Liberté yogurt. @LiberteUK on Instagram.
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VOGUE DARLING ON REPEAT

Jorja Smith ft Burna
“I can’t choose Boy “Be Honest”
a favourite art James Blake ft Travis
piece by Ibrahim Scott and Metro
El-Salahi. I love Boomin “Mile High”
his entire body of Nav Bad Habits
work, including Snoop Dogg “Focused”
his sculptures.”

“Going to Morocco
with my boyfriend
recently was the
best holiday I’ve
ever had. We went
quad biking, camel
riding and to
“I’m really into La Mamounia for
the ’70s vibe of this lunch – it was so
double denim set from beautiful inside.”
I.Am.Gia.” Top, from
£67. Jeans, from £96.
Both I.Am.Gia, at
Saksfifthavenue.com

“I switch

Emilia
between
the
different
coloured

Boateng
heart
emojis:
the purple
heart,
the red
heart… The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree in
all of

DIGITAL ARTWORK: JOHN HEYES. INSTAGRAM/@EMILIABOATENG; IBRAHIM EL-SALAHI/

them.” the Boateng family. Emilia, the daughter of
Savile Row designer Ozwald Boateng and
Russian model-turned-gemologist Gyunel

HAIR: MARK HAMPTON. MAKE-UP: SARAH REYGATE. NAILS: ROBBIE TOMKINS.

Taylor, is currently midway through her
Goldsmiths history of art degree – where
she is focusing on contemporary African art
– but already has her sights set on exploring
“every aspect of the fashion industry,” she
tells Vogue. Aside from modelling, this year
the London-born 19-year-old wants to try

VIGO GALLERY/PEER LINDEGARD; PIXELATE.BIZ

her hand at designing clothes (with her
father’s guidance, but as her “own thing”).
Savvy enough to start laying the foundation
for her career ahead of graduation, she
has plans to intern in styling, production,
Emilia wears leather
jacket, £2,500. Belted
bookings – the works. “It’ll mean I’ll know
leather trousers, £2,500. how to set up shoots and all the components,”
Both Fendi. Shoes, £895, she says. These are empire-building instincts,
Manolo Blahnik. Choker,
£900, Tilly Sveaas. Ring, from but they sprout from a relatable place: “I just
£185, Aurélie Bidermann. want to end up doing something I’m
Photograph: Laura Bailey. passionate about,” she smiles. Amel Mukhtar
Styling: Julia Brenard

“DevaCurl’s Leave-In
Decadence [£42] is my
go-to product for my curls.
I use a diffuser followed by an
Afro pick to make them bigger,
and Moroccan argan oil to
keep them moisturised.
I also use the Lush Jasmine “I’m not that good at
and Henna Fluff-Eaze Hair eyeshadow, but when
Treatment [£15] each week.” I go for it, I like Pat
Above left: Denman D17 McGrath Labs palettes.”
Curl Tamer Black, £5. Pat McGrath Labs
Right: Dyson Supersonic Mothership VI: Midnight
Hair Dryer, £300 Sun Palette, £115

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Tickets available at cniluxury.com

29-30 April 2020, Vienna, Austria

THE PREMIER EVENT FOR LUXURY BUSINESS AND CREATIVE LEADERS

2020 marks 30 years of extraordinary social and economic change in

Central and Eastern Europe.
Together with speakers from around the world, and my Condé Nast colleagues, I plan to
explore how economic development in the CEE region is creating opportunities for the
global luxury and fashion industry. We will also explore the crucial global topics of inclusivity,
sustainability, and the emergence of new sources of creativity.
Vienna is the perfect setting for our discussions, with its history as a meeting point,
and – of course – its famed coffeehouse culture!
I hope you will join me to discover ‘Gateways to Luxury’.

Suzy Menkes, Editor, Vogue International

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH CITY PARTNER EVENT SPONSORS INCLUDE

For details of commercial partnerships, CNILuxury.com

please contact: [email protected] @CNILuxury @SuzyMenkesVogue
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TRENDS

SHARE
AND
SHARE
ALIKE
According to three
clothes-swapping
couples, one route to
domestic harmony
lies through a
collective wardrobe.
Photographs by
Jonathan Daniel Pryce.
Interviews by
Ellie Pithers

JUSTINE SIMONS aesthetics. For instance, when we first

moved in together, to a house in south
a shared box of silk pussy bows, a
collection of badges and brooches,
& DARRELL London, we realised that we both and a hat wall. And we often buy the
VYDELINGUM collected Japanese dolls. They now same thing, but one size apart – such
have a whole shelf to themselves. as high-waisted trousers.
Justine, London’s deputy mayor for Sharing clothes happened over time, Each of us has our own wardrobe, Justine and
Darrell in the
culture and the creative industries, says: and we hadn’t really thought about how and then we have shared rails. Often hallway of their
I met Darrell on a blind date 12 years many pieces we both wear until we put in the morning we will pick up the same south London home.
ago. We bonded over a shared love of together a list for Vogue, which included thing, or put together a look that’s quite Sittings editor: Flo
Arnold. Hair: Ryuta
art and all things creative, and we’re boilersuits, belts, sunglasses, kimonos, similar, but we never argue about it – we Saiga. Make-up:
drawn to the same 1960s and ’70s capes and printed shirts. We also have just think it’s funny. Over the course > Natsumi Narita

67
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Thomas Downes and

of my career, people have occasionally Erica Toogood, who
said, “You work in government, you reveals that the two
fight most over “a pair
need to start dressing in a serious of super-soft trousers.
way.” Of course, I’ve totally ignored They’re the cosiest
thing to wear, so you
that advice. Still, if Darrell and I are always know what
wearing the same thing and meeting mood the other person
up that evening after work, we might is in as soon as they
reach for them”
change – we don’t want to look like
an art project.
We both love vintage shopping, and
it’s part of the itinerary whenever we
go travelling. Darrell puts together a
great list before we go anywhere –
Tokyo is our favourite destination. He
always gets me to try on things that I
wouldn’t have thought to try, pushing
me out of my comfort zone. He’s usually
right. The trousers I’m wearing in this
portrait were his suggestion: they were
too tight for him, but then he handed
them to me, they fit perfectly.

Darrell, a creative director, says: For our

first date, Justine turned up wearing
grey skinny jeans, a bomber jacket and
a printed shirt. I had on something
very similar. We’re quite aligned in
our tastes – if we go to an exhibition
or a fashion show, we come out
liking the same stuff. We both love
outrageous, colourful things from
the 1960s and 1970s. I always joke
to Justine that I’m “homaging” her.
We’re not precious about keeping any
individual piece to ourselves; getting
dressed is supposed to be fun.
I’ve always been fascinated by
vintage clothes. My mother grew up
in India, where it was hard to buy and workwear from Margaret Howell.
anything from big labels like Dior, so ERICA TOOGOOD & I like the fact we can share things. On
she’d get copies of Vogue shipped over THOMAS DOWNES top, what looks oversized on me looks
and ask my grandmother to whip up more fitted on Thomas, and the same
something from the pages of the Erica, a fashion designer, says: Thomas pair of trousers will hang differently on
magazine. By the evening, she’d have a and I met while working at Studio both of us. He is 5ft 5in, so it’s interesting
new outfit. I started vintage shopping Toogood – we were colleagues, then to watch him wrap trousers around
in the 1970s, in little shops in east and friends and then became a bit more himself to create a new silhouette.
west London. Now, every time we visit than that, quite quickly. I get first dibs in the morning, because
If Darrell a new city, we try to hunt down small
vintage shops that I’ve researched.
He is an architect by training, I’m
a pattern cutter. I was working on
I’m up the earliest. I previously only
wore black, with brown accents, and
and I are Once, we went to Bangkok and the launching a clothing brand with my Thomas veered more towards white
wearing the owner of a retro store directed us to an
incredible second-hand market on the
sister, Faye Toogood [the multi-
disciplinary designer who runs the
and cream, but since having a baby – our
son, Cassius, is now 18 months old –
same thing outskirts of the city. There were no studio], which was focused on the I have started to wear cream, too. I think
and meeting tourists to be found; we felt as though
we’d happened upon a subculture.
concept of a uniform – something that
doesn’t distinguish between male and
it’s something to do with purifying your
palette. But then your baby starts eating,
up that I bought a pair of 1960s Yves Saint female, young and old. We created a and white is suddenly very dangerous!
evening after Laurent sunglasses – they’re a great series of unisex silhouettes that are all We experiment with colour on Cass.
memento from the trip. That said, we named after tradesmen and artisans My mother is a happy knitter and she
work, we try not to buy things we’re looking at – the Oilrigger dress, for example, or knits him things in coral, lemon yellow
might change through “holiday eyes”. It has to be our Electrician overalls. It’s minimal and cobalt blue.
– we don’t something we could wear back home
on a cold winter’s day.
without being cultish.
When Thomas and I moved in
The piece of clothing that we fight
about the most is a pair of super-soft
want to look We’re getting married in London this together, we pooled our clothes. We cotton trousers from Egg. They’re the
like an art year, and our outfits were the first thing
on the list. It will come as no surprise
both have a lot of Toogood pieces, as
well as crisp shirts from Casey Casey,
cosiest, nicest thing to wear, so you
always know what mood the other
project that we’re both wearing vintage. Japanese cottons from Arts & Science person is in as soon as they reach for

68
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TRENDS
them. Good clothes are like sculpture same pair of grey tracksuit bottoms and Phoebe probably pushed my taste to
– they change your form, they question a dirty vest, but I take a weird pleasure be a bit more “out there” – and then I
the silhouette, and they change your in dressing up – when I was a teenager, just stayed there. We don’t dress to look
approach to the day. That’s something I loved walking to the station in a real similar, it’s more that Phoebe will get
we both live by. “look”, with everyone staring at me. dressed for an event and maybe on a
Often, we go to pick out the same subconscious level I will have been
Thomas, head of interiors at The Collective, item, and there might be a bit of a influenced and will pick something in
says: I’ve been through some interesting struggle over who gets to wear it. There a similar tone or fabric. Then she’ll say,
experimental phases with my style: was a moment when a few brands “Oh, you’ve copied me!” I’ve noticed
dreadlocks down to there, Mohawks, seemed to be pushing a non-binary, that she’s wearing my silver Cmmn
ridiculous big ’80s fluffy trousers, a lot unisex aesthetic, which roughly Swdn trousers a lot, though. We also
of Japanese stuff. But I had always translated as boxy T-shirts and hoodies. share clothes from Acne Studios,
longed for a uniform – going to my I respect brands that are making Burberry, Calvin Klein and Loewe,
wardrobe, pulling out something and clothing that is inclusive not just of and some vintage pieces.
having a full piece, like a suit. When I genders but of body types, too. Mine and Phoebe’s body types aren’t
met Erica, it was like: “Wowzers!” The Admittedly, it’s easy to wear a lot of that different, but she has bigger hips
way she thinks is phenomenal, what different shapes of clothes if you’re tall and more bum than I do, which makes
she can do is incredible. We no longer and skinny, but it’s nice to see menswear certain things fit differently. I like
work together – I left my six-year post becoming more adventurous. the way people’s perspective changes
as design director of Toogood last year I’ve always worn menswear. My depending on which of us is wearing
to work at The Collective, a company parents are really young and clothes- something. I have a velvet suit from Below: Adam
that creates co-living and co-working obsessed, so as a teenager I used to go Acne with very high-waisted, wide- Bainbridge and
spaces, so I am wearing things that are shopping with my dad and borrow his legged trousers, and when I wore it to Phoebe Collings-
James. “I like
a little smarter – but I still wear a lot clothes. We had an extensive collection a party recently, a friend said, “Very the way people’s
of Toogood. It’s so satisfying to wake of Levi’s twisted jeans and I still have ’70s schoolteacher.” When Phoebe perspective changes
up and know that all the things in our some of his pieces. I like to get Adam’s wears it, however, they’ll say, “She looks depending on which
of us is wearing
wardrobe work together. opinion on my outfit. They love this so glam.” She makes it look like the something,” says
Over the past four years, I have Phlemuns silver harness top I have, height of sophisticated cool. n the musician
completely transformed from being by the designer James
an African who was not very sensible Flemons, and my Claire
about the weather (I am South African Barrow suit.
by birth and used to wear Japanese
linen in near-freezing temperatures) Adam, a musician, says:
to embracing wool. Phoebe and I met in
Big volumes and silhouettes have New York. As Brits, it
always been my thing. I like to mix in was nice to be able to
Toogood pieces with vintage Yohji talk about things that
Yamamoto, old-school Issey Miyake others didn’t relate to –
and vintage Carhartt. I often find pins together, we had a whole
in the necklines of shirts from when realm of humour and
Erica has been wearing them – every shared culture. Phoebe
single time it shocks me. is reluctant to big herself
We regularly shop together at Dover up, but when we moved
Street Market, Blue Mountain School’s into our flat in London,
Hostem boutique and the Aro Archive, she built a 9ft wardrobe
which has a fantastic collection of out of plywood so that
vintage clothes but also a retail space. we could combine our
When I try something on, I know clothes in one space.
there’s a possibility Erica might wear it, We are generally both
but it’s not a mandate. We recently got quite conscientious about
engaged and are having matching rings looking after things, but
made by Alice Waese. It feels logical, on one occasion, when I
to be wearing the same jewellery. asked her whether she
had seen my favourite
oversized Mister Green
PHOEBE hoodie, she gave me a look
COLLINGS-JAMES & like a wayward house guest
who doesn’t know how
ADAM BAINBRIDGE to tell you that they’ve
aka KINDNESS smashed your favourite
mug, then admitted she’d
Phoebe, an artist, says: I met Adam worn it to her studio,
through a friend. They had a good jacket ruined it, and had had to
on. Clothes are important to me – throw it away.
they’re a way of being a shape-shifter. Earlier on in our
I spend a lot of my day dressed in the relationship, I think that
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Long story
SHORT
This season’s abbreviated necklaces
Blackened-gold
and diamond stud
earrings, £5,000.
Blackened-gold and
diamond necklace,
price on request. Both
Jessica McCormack.
are endlessly chic, says Rachel Garrahan. Cotton T-shirt,
£46, Michael Stars.
Photographs by Anya Holdstock. Hair: Emil Zed.
Make-up: Bea Sweet.
Styling by Donna Wallace Model: Audrey Marnay
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2
JEWELLERY
3
4

“Keep things short

and chic with a necklace
that sits just so on 5
the collarbone. It will
brighten the face and
lengthen the neck”
9

6
8
PIXELATE.BIZ

1 Gold, platinum and diamond, £127,500, Tiffany. 2 Gold, diamond and emerald, Ara Vartanian. 3 Rose gold, white gold and diamond,
£86,000, Van Cleef & Arpels. 4 White gold, pavé diamond and yellow diamond, Repossi, at Selfridges. 5 Rose gold and diamond, £33,400, Cartier.
6 Gold, opal, emerald, diamond, amethyst, tsavorite and sapphire, £19,500, Venyx. 7 Gold, black rhodium and diamond, from £12,750,
Jemma Wynne. 8 Rose gold and diamond, £24,875, Wempe. 9 Titanium and diamond, Vhernier. Prices on request unless otherwise stated

73
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FACE FORWARD
Legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz has embarked on a series of portraits of individuals
whose passion and commitment are changing the landscape of our time. Shot exclusively on
Google Pixel 4, the pictures portray extraordinary people who are defined by their fierce
desire to make the world a better place, no matter how daunting the obstacles
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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

MEGAN RAPINOE, SOCCER PLAYER

Photographed on Google Pixel 4 by Annie Leibovitz
The US team’s top scorer at the 2019 Women’s World Cup, Megan Rapinoe (opposite and above with partner
Sue Bird near their home in Seattle) is known for her exuberant, irreverent and fearless personality, as well
as her skills on the field. Not only did she shine the spotlight on wage disparity between male and female
soccer players, but she has been a fierce activist for LGBTQ+ rights for many years.

For more information on Google Pixel 4, please visit g.co/pixel

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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

XIUHTEZCATL MARTINEZ, ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIVIST & HIP-HOP ARTIST

Photographed on Google Pixel 4 by Annie Leibovitz
The 19-year-old hip-hop artist with his mother, Tamara Roske, and his sister,
Tonantzin, in their backyard in Boulder, Colorado. He has been speaking out in defence
of the environment since he was six. In 2015, he was one of 21 young people who sued
the US Government for failing to limit the effects of climate change.

For more information on Google Pixel 4, please visit g.co/pixel

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The Photographer’s Phone

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From left: Ellie

wears short-sleeve
ARTS & CULTURE
asymmetric jacket,
£4,145. Quilted
shirt, £3,995. Sophie
wears sleeveless
asymmetric jacket,
£3,845. Quilted shirt,
£3,995. Belt, £870.
All Chanel. Diamond
earrings, £6,700.
Gold and diamond

DANGEROUS
ring, £7,700. Both
Chanel Fine Jewellery.
Hair: Mark Hampton.
Make-up: Athena

LIAISONS
Paginton. Nails:
Robbie Tomkins

An MP, a Soviet spy and two

party girls… The BBC’s Trial of
Christine Keeler sees Sophie Cookson
and Ellie Bamber recast the women
at the heart of the 1960s Profumo
scandal. By Giles Hattersley.
Photographs by Claudia Knoepfel.
Styling by Julia Brenard

N
early 60 years after she shook Britain’s
moral foundations to breaking point, a
retro-glam sheen still lingers, like the
faded smell of hairspray or a lipstick-
marked cigarette, over the life of Christine Keeler.
Now, a gripping six-part television drama – set to
dominate post-Christmas viewing when it arrives on
BBC One later this month – wants to unpick the
myths and expose the misogyny that sealed the fate
of one of the 20th century’s most hounded women.
Firstly, says Ellie Bamber, who plays Keeler’s
showgirl confidante Mandy Rice-Davies with eerie
accuracy, it’s important to note that the girls (and
they were practically still girls) at the centre of the
Profumo affair – the notorious early-1960s scandal
that played a part in bringing Harold Macmillan’s
Conservative government to its knees – were not
prostitutes. “They were just two young women who
liked having sex. Absolutely nothing wrong with
that,” she says. Sophie Cookson, who plays Keeler,
agrees. “They weren’t willing to play by the rules
and let The Establishment control them.”
Lavishly costumed and easy on the eye, The Trial
of Christine Keeler – also starring James Norton and
Emilia Fox – provides a heady jolt of escapist
nostalgia, but its makers have a bigger mission: to
snatch back a narrative. For the first time, Keeler’s
extraordinary tale is in the hands of an all-female
creative team, from writer Amanda Coe (Apple Tree
Yard) to director Andrea Harkin (Clique), with
DIGITAL ARTWORK: SUSSTRUNK & JERICKE

fascinating results. “What’s so brilliant about this,”

says Cookson, a high-cheekboned chameleon, best
known for her supporting role in the Kingsman
franchise, “is it’s truly seeing it from her perspective.
Vivid, complicated, nervous, brave…” Bamber, who
returns to the BBC after triumphing in December
2018’s Les Misérables, nods, furious at Keeler and
Rice-Davies’s treatment. “It was hideous. They
weren’t allowed to talk for themselves. They were
totally used as scapegoats by men in power.” >

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ARTS & CULTURE

A Soviet spy, a minister for war, a topless encounter at the the raging about these
swimming pool at Cliveden, a photoshoot on an imitation “dangerous, deviant ”
Arne Jacobson chair… for a generation of baby boomers, the women essentially put
tropes of Keeler’s life are as vivid as the moon landing or the Keeler on trial herself.
Suez Crisis. A beautiful, working-class girl from Middlesex, Cookson and Bamber
whose hardscrabble upbringing was beset by sexual abuse, pitch their performances
the teenage Keeler fled to London to become a model but perfectl y – ballsy,
instead found herself a hit on the shady party circuit of human, vulnerable –
Mayfair’s elite. In 1961 – thanks to her friendship with society painting the pair as
osteopath and artist Stephen Ward, who rubbed shoulders prototypes for sex positivity, and as
with everyone from Prince Phillip to Lord Astor – Keeler victims of their era. “To reclaim a story that belongs to
had overlapping affairs with John Profumo, secretary of state Christine feels important,” says Cookson. “While I was
for war, and Yevgeny Ivanov, a Soviet naval attaché and spy. prepping, the Kavanaugh case was going on in the US.
Cue national crisis. Initially, I’d been reading
When the press got wind From left: Ellie the script thinking,
of it, Profumo resigned, wears jacket, ‘This is set in the ’60s…
£5,810. Earrings,
Macmillan’s government £1,020. Sophie blah blah blah.’ But it’s
was rocked (the prime wears jacket, as relevant today as it
minister stepped down £15,615. Bustier, was then. Profumo was
£5,540. Trousers,
later that year) and Keeler £10,065. Hair obviously shamed for a
became the nation’s harlot- clip, £370. while, and had to earn his
All Chanel
“It’s as in-chief, famous in a way
that perhaps only Monica
way back up, but he
recovered his reputation.
relevant Lewinsky can imagine. Christine never did.”
today as it In the summer of 1963,
Keeler had to make a series
If Cookson, a serious
and introspective seeming
was then. of court appearances – 29-year-old, is spiritually
Profumo firstly, because an ex- closer to Keeler – who
boyfriend had tried to spent her later years as a
recovered his shoot her at Ward ’s near-recluse – Bamber,
reputation. Marylebone mews home, 22, nails the pure fizz of
Christine where she was living at
the time, then Ward
Mandy. In the 1980s and
’90s, the car-show model
never did” himself was put on trial from Solihull turned
herself into a minor
celebrity via a movie role,
three husbands, one a
millionaire, and a chain
of nightclubs in Israel.
Bamber, a star since her
teens, when Tom Ford
cast her in Nocturnal
Animals, and whose own
love life occasionally
makes the tabloids thanks
to ex-boyfriends such as
on various vice charges. Richard Madden, has full sympathy for the way young
(When the trial ended, he women continue to be treated by the media. “I think it’s
attempted suicide and very courageous how Rice-Davies managed something that
was found guilty while could have been her downfall, and said, ‘F**k you guys, I’m
in a coma. He died going to put a smile on my face.’”
before sentencing.) In the end, only bitterness remained. Keeler and Rice-
Keeler and Rice-Davies Davies, who died in 2017 and 2014, did not enjoy a lasting
– her happy-go-lucky party friendship. “A true tart,” was Keeler’s ultimate view of the
pal, who was also a fixture at latter. After two failed marriages, two children and life as a
In the eye of a
media storm: Mandy Ward’s and had had a long punchline, Keeler’s fate was to die poor and alone. Respect
CLAUDIA KNOEPFEL; GETTY IMAGES

Rice-Davies (top right); affair with millionaire Peter is overdue, say Cookson and Bamber. This was the woman
Christine Keeler (right); Rachman – were 21 and 18 who helped usher in Britain’s sexual revolution, whose celebrity
and the pair surrounded
by the press outside respectively when they were was the precursor of reality TV fame and who suffered for it
court (above) called as prosecution witnesses most of her life. Cookson says Keeler knew this female-made
against Ward. The scandal drama was happening before she died, and gave it her blessing.
had exposed moral hypocrisy “We wanted to set the record straight,” she says, firmly.
at the heart of a nation “If one more person had said to me, ‘Oh, you’re playing
clinging to the vestiges of a that prostitute,’ I was going to bloody kill them.” n
Victorian value system, and The Trial of Christine Keeler begins on BBC One on 29 December

80
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TALENT CONTEST

VOGUE
TALENT
CONTEST
2019
Introducing the winners of
this year’s competition for young
writers and photographers…

LOST FOR WORDS: social media asking us if we have enough likes; politicians
stirring racist rhetoric; terror on London bridges. Then
SEARCHING FOR ANSWERS streaming beneath this are quieter, larger forces: an ever-

W
warming climate, dying animals, oceans creeping into homes.
illow, daisy and nettle. On some days I walk One recent morning, sunlight rested on a canopy of leaves
through the fields and woods by my home in the woods, casting an amber shadow across the soil. Iris,
wearing a wool coat and oversized wellies. fairy flax, thistle. I picked a couple of tart blackberries; stained
I am trying to teach myself the names of my fingers purple. Then, as I found my way out of the trees,
things: cowslip, primrose, heather. I had a thought. Perhaps there is another way to view our
It’s not that I am all about nature. I am pleased, for instance, ever-increasing anxiety; perhaps our bodies are warning us.
when it rains, because then I don’t feel guilty about spending You see, there is this process in nature called mycorrhizae.
the day indoors drinking coffee, and I cannot distinguish It’s a fungus that lives on and in plants, forming a symbiotic
one leaf from another. However, when I recently learned relationship which allows the plant to collect critical minerals
that words like “acorn” and “cauliflower” had been removed and colonise larger pieces of land. It also acts as an alarm,
from the Oxford Junior Dictionary – to be replaced with terms alerting plants to soil depletion or pathogens: an underground
such as “broadband” and “chat room” – I suddenly wanted web of communication, a nervous system.
to run and hug every tree. In that moment I knew something Could it be that our nervous systems – the synapses of
fundamental was being threatened; and that evening – quite our minds – are flashing red because our larger ecosystems
out of character – I started walking. are also out of balance? I’m not only talking about the
I am aware that I’m not unusual in saying that I struggle environment, but the way we are connecting, with each other,
with my mental health. The statistics say that there are in with that which surrounds us.
fact a growing number of us; with one in six people saying So often we talk about mental and physical health as being
they experience feelings of depression or anxiety each week. a matter of the personal; a singular event happening in a
For years I have controlled my food single body. But what if we are, at times, more like plants
and weighed myself; not because of than we think? What if our nerves are rattling, not because
WINNING WRITER aesthetics, but because this is how my there is something wrong with us per se, but because there
Imani Thompson, 21 younger self learned to numb anxiety. is something wrong? And we all know it.
While I know it as a whirlpool of worry Today on the bus I sat and watched people on their
that churns my stomach, I imagine that smartphones, plugged into earbuds, jumping thumbs. And
many of us feel stress in different ways for different reasons; I wondered, have we really lost the patience for “buttercups”?
each of us having our own numbing strategy. Mine is Will children really have no name for that which surrounds
undereating, but it could be alcohol, drugs, self-harm, too them? It is with these questions in mind that I walk; filling
much sleep, too much Netflix, too much scrolling. my memory, and coat pockets, with green and natural things.
And it is not strange that more and more of us should feel And I tell you: each time I do, the world feels a more familiar
this way, for the world today is nervous. There are many things place. A good place. For in fields and woods there is no
that run on our anxiety: companies wanting us to feel lesser comparison, no pressure, no fear. There is only me and sky
so we buy more; news outlets sharing trauma after trauma; and brambles. Acorn, wild basil, lavender. n
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“All of my
photographs
show black
excellence
and beauty
– that was
my main
inspiration
behind
capturing
them”

WINNING PHOTOGRAPHER
Oulayma Conteh, 21
OULAYMA CONTEH; EMILY WINIKER/ART PARTNER

Clockwise from above: for this portrait of

Sara Acheampong, Oulayma was inspired by
her friend’s beauty, style and confidence;
periwinkle tulle is offset by the brutalist
architecture of Royal Festival Hall; musician
Santino Le Saint, photographed in Brixton

85
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The Calico Club is a community for devotees of design, interiors, gardens, art
and food. Created by the team behind House & Garden, The Calico Club
brings the magazine to life, offering privileged access to the people and
places we feature on our pages. Become a member and enjoy considered,
intelligent and lively events that promise thoughtful conversations, glimpses
behind closed doors and plenty of opportunities to hone your eye and learn
from the most talented creatives in their fields.

Follow us on instagram @the_calico_club

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MR VOGUE

Beautiful stranger
In art, as in life, actor Earl Cave brings
new meaning to modern gothic, says
Douglas Greenwood. Photograph by
Nik Hartley. Styling by Julia Brenard

B
y his own admission, Earl Cave is no longer a
boy, but not quite a man. “I’m in the middle,”
he insists, sitting in the lobby of Toronto’s
Fairmont Royal York hotel during the city’s
film festival, tucking his hair behind his ears with ring-
encrusted fingers. This 19-year-old is coming of age
with a potent mix of moody acting roles, chipped black
nail polish and dainty pearl earrings.
Cave is the son of creative royalty – you know his
rockstar father, Nick, and his mother, Susie, the designer
behind The Vampire’s Wife. Growing up in bohemian
Brighton has left him grounded, inquisitive and keen
to navigate the world on his own terms; in two films
set for release this spring, he plays outcasts. He’s warm
and affable in person, but he has a phantom-like
presence in front of the lens.
Days of the Bagnold Summer sees him assume the
lead role of a heavy-metal obsessed teenager trying to
get along with his librarian mother, played by Monica
Dolan. Meanwhile in True History of the Kelly Gang
– the macabre new thriller from Australian director
Justin Kurzel, which also stars George MacKay,
Nicholas Hoult and Russell Crowe – Cave is cast as
the unruly younger brother of the infamous real-life
outlaw Ned Kelly.
For the latter, he was based in the Australian outback,
riding horses in long, frilly dresses – as anarchic and
deranged as the original Kelly Gang. Before shooting,
Kurzel asked Cave and his co-stars to form a punk
band, write music and play a show to solidify their
bond. “If anyone touched our dresses, we were
meant to go mental,” he grins. “No one could
touch us. By the time we got to filming, I wasn’t
acting like a stranger. I was with my brothers.”
It’s a far cry from Cave’s real life, spent
between his place off London’s Portobello
Road and the family home in Los Angeles,
where he skateboards, plays piano and
DIGITAL ARTWORK: LUCIE SILVEIRA

reads (he’s nose-deep in a dog-eared

copy of Haruki Murakami’s The Wind-up
Leather
Bird Chronicle). Every so often, Earl jacket, £3,980.
returns to the Brighton seaside. He Jersey vest, £250.
runs into old friends and says hello to Belt, £345. Wool
trousers, £850. All
strangers in the street. “Everyone’s got Saint Laurent by
a brightness that’s quite contagious,” Anthony Vaccarello.
Jewellery, Earl’s
he smiles. The morsel of normality own. Grooming:
matters to him. n Kota Suizu
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For Judith Milgrom,

below, Deauville is the
perfect escape from
her hectic life in Paris.
Hair: Quentin Guyen.
Make-up: Gregoris Pyrpylis.
Digital artwork: Charles
Pallier. Sittings editor:
Gianluca Longo

Paris
For Maje by the sea
O
co-founder
n a bright morning in Normandy, the artistic director of Sandro. Four years later, Milgrom opened Maje’s
Judith director Judith Milgrom is strolling around her first bricks-and-mortar site in the 6th arrondissement, quickly
Milgrom, the garden, joyfully pointing out the different types cornering the affordable luxury market for city-slick staples.
Normandy of fruit tree: “This is the fig tree. Then there are Cut to 2019, and Milgrom oversees more than 150 Maje
apple trees over there, plus blackcurrants, persimmons and boutiques globally and co-owns Claudie Pierlot – which
resort of strawberries…” Just visible on the horizon is the seaside resort follows the same Parisian codes as Maje and Sandro – with
Deauville of Deauville, where the art deco promenade is lined with Chétrite. It’s clearly a winning formula: the brands’ umbrella
offers the bathing huts and the social calendar revolves around the
Deauville La Touques Racecourse, founded in the 1860s.
company, SMCP, made a cool €1 billion in sales in 2018.
Hardly surprising, then, that she sometimes craves a break
perfect getaway Today, the closest Milgrom, 55, will get to a horse is petting from what she labels her “crazy Parisian life”, which sees
from city life. her neighbour’s chestnut mare, who stands whinnying gently the mother-of-two regularly clocking up to 12-hour days
By Hayley at the fence between their properties. “That’s the only problem
with this house,” the predominantly Paris-based designer
in her Sentier studio – an area of the city that, Milgrom
says, “never sleeps”. Her frequent trips to Deauville, set on
Maitland. confides. “Once I’m here, I find it impossible to leave.” the Côte Fleurie of the Parisian Riviera, with her family in
Photographs The minimalist bolthole is a fittingly stylish escape for the tow act as a restorative tonic. “It’s a romantic destination,”
mind behind Maje. Milgrom founded the cult contemporary she says approvingly. “I discovered it in my twenties, and
by Matthieu label with her brother Alain in 1998, after more than a decade I’ve visited regularly ever since. It’s only a few hours from
Salvaing spent working for her sister Evelyne Chétrite, the creative Paris and yet somehow worlds away.”
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LIVING

“I honestly
believe that
the house was
meant to be
mine… I have
an almost
spiritual
connection
to it”
CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS. BRACELET, DELFINA DELETTREZ. RING, JUDITHÕS OWN

Deauville’s history speaks for itself. It became a seaside – and voilà! I honestly believe that it was meant to be mine…
resort for wealthy Parisians during Napoleon III’s reign and I have an almost spiritual connection to it.”
JUDITH WEARS T-SHIRT, TROUSERS AND BOOTS, ALL MAJE. EARRINGS,

the Calvados region has boasted fashionable residents (both The interior design involved a year-long project in
real and imaginary) through the decades. Marcel Proust collaboration with Jessica Barouch, the Jag Gallery founder,
nodded to it throughout In Search of Lost Time, while Tom whom Milgrom met through friends in Paris. An antidote
and Daisy Buchanan holidayed there in The Great Gatsby. In to more formal art spaces, Jag is laid out like a sleek, cosy Top: Milgrom
1913, Coco Chanel opened her first boutique close to the apartment, where guests are welcomed with mugs of herbal bought her vintage
Casino Barrière, which helped inspire Ian Fleming’s debut tea and invited to browse Barouch’s eclectic personal collection. greenhouse
at a flea market
James Bond novel, Casino Royale. Meanwhile, Yves Saint Think George Nakashima chairs, Paul Kingma tables and near Deauville.
Laurent considered it his personal “haven”, purchasing the Jean Lurçat ceramics mixed in with flea-market treasures. Above, from left:
vast Château Gabriel in nearby Benerville-sur-Mer in 1983. “On my first visit to Jag, I bought a pair of brackets a study area,
positioned near
It was during a trip to Deauville five years ago that Milgrom designed by Rick Owens,” Milgrom says happily. “Jessica natural light;
fell in love with her own retreat: a slightly more modest house. has the most remarkable taste, and as soon as I bought the cushions are
scattered on the
“The location and size were both perfect – but for ages house, I was determined to work with her on it.” The results floor around the
it was out of my price range,” she explains. “I made an offer are markedly different from her primary home in the 16th sitting room’s coffee
when I first discovered it, and it was turned down. It was arrondissement, located just a few blocks from her sister’s table; the outdoor
seating is perfect
still on the market a couple of years later, so I spoke to the townhouse and filled with pops of colour courtesy of works for entertaining
owners directly, tracking them down through mutual friends by Olafur Eliasson, Cindy Sherman and Richard Serra. > “en plein air”

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LIVING
In contrast, her Deauville sanctuary is devoted to natural,
understated colours and textures, taking inspiration from both
Barouch’s style and the surrounding landscape. “Every piece
I chose for this house had to feel warm and rustic rather than
“Rather than sophisticated,” Milgrom says. Take the raw oak table in the
dining room – “the emotional centre of the place” – which
‘cocooning’ us Milgrom designed in collaboration with Barouch and upon
from the rain, which now sits a collection of hand-thrown vintage ceramics
from Les 2 Potiers. In the living rooms, visitors are encouraged
the design needed to while away an afternoon at a Toulet billiard table, or relax
to allow us to on the floor cushions set around a concrete and brass table
connect with that’s piled with worn volumes on everything from the
Hamptons to the life of Bob Dylan.
nature, no matter What Milgrom’s residences do share, however, is a glorious
the season” amount of natural light. “My family is originally from Rabat,
on the north-western coast of Morocco,” she says.
“I moved to Paris as a child, but the love of sunshine
never left me.” That heliophilia led her to install
floor-to-ceiling windows and terraces around much
of the Deauville property – breaking with the
tradition of local Neo-Norman architecture. “Rather
than ‘cocooning’ us from the rain, the design needed
to allow us to connect with nature, no matter the
season – and, of course, to dine and entertain en
plein air,” she continues, nodding to the clouds
looming in the distance. “I was determined that it
would feel as if there were no real boundaries
between inside and outside.”
The results are exquisite, with panoramic views
of the lush, tangled grounds from every room in the
Above: wild planting close to the half-timbered house.
Right: Milgrom’s sky-blue vintage Chevrolet, in which
house – far and away the biggest project Milgrom
she makes the trip between Deauville and Paris. has undertaken since moving in. “I’ve basically
Below: enamelled ceramic mirrors by Mia Jensen, disregarded the advice of most professional
a Jag Gallery artist, add colour to neutral walls
gardeners,” she says cheerfully. “I planted it to be
wild yet still balanced and with a sense of harmony.”
In place of colourful beds, there are endless varieties
of greenery, such as fragrant bay laurel and ornamental garden
artichokes. A dedicated area of yellow-tone flowers is the
only break from the palette. And dramatically perched within
the branches of a tree? A statue of a woman by Klara
Kristalova, purchased at Paris’s Contemporary Art Fair.
It’s also the gardens that provide the inspiration for much
of Milgrom’s activities as a hostess while she’s here. “The
second I arrive for the weekend, I look in on the greenhouse,”
she admits with a laugh. “It’s a vintage structure that
I discovered in a flea market outside Deauville, and had rebuilt
here piece by piece. Right now, it’s filled with tomatoes and
herbs.” Depending on what’s fresh and ripe, she plans a menu
for her frequent guests – a mixture of locals and fellow
Parisians – and spends several blissful hours in the kitchen,
her favourite place to be. “It’s always a bit of a gastronomical
orgy while we’re here; I often shop for incredible Deauville
fish in the markets and then do a traditional Moroccan tagine
for everyone. I tell people that my sister and I never compete
as designers – but as chefs, it’s a different story.”
Perhaps her favourite part about visiting Deauville is the
joy of rediscovering Paris on her return. “I need the air here,
to watch the light on the water and be surrounded by greenery
– but I need the magic of the city as well, and Deauville gives
a sense of it back to me,” she acknowledges. Come Sunday
evening, she will pile into her sky-blue vintage Chevrolet
and begin the journey back to the 16th arrondissement. “Yes,
home to Paris,” she says, turning back towards the house
with a smile, “just not quite yet.” n

90
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LIVING

“Through its beauty

products, Roques Oneil
Therapie aims to alleviate
the stress we all suffer as a
result of digital overload.
These Himalayan bath salts
are heaven.” Roques Oneil
Therapie Himalayan
Detox Salts, £40

“This Les-Ottomans

LIFE &
vase is a work of art.
It’s from a collection
curated by Bertrando
Di Renzo, who sources

STYLE
the best artefacts.”
Murano glass
vase, from £510,
Les-Ottomans

New decade, new

Julia Sarr-Jamois fashion
and lifestyle finds “Over the past year,
I’ve successfully changed
my relationship with
“I always struggle exercise – and, as a
to find a good strappy result, my life – for the
flat, but Daniel Lee, better. Working with Roar
Bottega Veneta’s Fitness is incredibly hard
creative director, has but totally worth it.”
come to my rescue – Roar-fitness.com
I love how his sandals
wrap around the
ankle.” Sandals,
£675, Bottega Veneta

“I adore this pharaoh

door knocker. It’ll
make a fabulous
first impression on
houseguests.”
Door knocker,
£265, The
Beardmore
Collection
“Since its unveiling at s/s ’18,
“Sussy Cazalet takes I’ve loved the Gate, Loewe’s
1970s-style furniture already iconic saddle bag.
up a notch with her And it’s even better in white.”
nostalgic, sleek designs. Leather and silk bag,
This table would make £1,000, Loewe
a great centrepiece
for a living room.”
Coffee table, £5,500,
Sussy Cazalet
“The young jewellery designer
Gala Colivet Dennison –
English, but raised in France
– considers her pieces natural
extensions of the body. Her “One of the most exciting
dynamic approach to design brands to come out of New
makes for some brilliantly York recently, Khaite is
GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ

chunky statement rings.” my latest purveyor of

Silver, citrine, quartz classic and chic staples.
MARK KEAN; NICK KNIGHT;

and pearl ring, £1,075, This jacket is perfect for

Gala Colivet Dennison mixing with more seasonal
pieces.” Leather blazer,
“If, like me, you often find £3,753, Khaite
yourself longing for coffee at
The Wolseley, this is the ultimate
treat: a vintage silver coffee pot
from the restaurant’s collection.”
Vintage coffee pot, from a
92 selection, The Wolseley
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ARCHIVE

STARTING LINES
Robin Muir looks back a hundred years, to illustrations hinting at
new-found independence for young women, Vogue, late January 1920

T
his suite of drawings was produced in 1919 and Up till then, it had not been Vogue’s place to discuss the
published the following year. Frustratingly, the contentious or to be particularly instructive beyond the ever-
artist’s identity is unknown, although he or she shifting mode, but it found ways to alert vigilant readers to
worked with much the same line as Olga the changing times – the previous year had seen Lady Astor
Piorkowska, a diligent illustrator of the time – and later the become the first woman to take her seat in the Commons
mother of Samuel Wagstaff, patron and partner of Robert and the passing of The Sex Disqualification (Removal) Act,
Mapplethorpe. It was by no means unusual in British Vogue’s which allowed women to enter the professions. In Vogue,
infancy (by early 1920 it was barely three years old) for fashion such moments were couched in the blithest of terms: “Beauty
illustrations and photographs to go uncredited. The policy will have its Say, Beauty will Cast her Vote.”
was for everyone to work together towards the common good. These modest drawings were a departure, too, being
Even editors-in-chief were then unheralded. one of the earliest examples of young women receiving
At any rate, our unnamed artist is indebted – as so many acknowledgement in Vogue’s fashion pages. It stumbles a
were – to the sinuous and exotic style of Léon Bakst, whose little in description – “even the awkward age attains grace
designs for Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes proved influential in a soft blue silk-frilled skirt” – yet its inclusion was novel.
across graphic design, illustration, early fashion photography That the clothes did not resemble their mothers’ wardrobes
and the Paris couture. was liberation of a kind. n

94
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VIEWPOINT

ALL
S
itting in a dark room, the mounds of various powders
on the coffee table in front of me slowly getting
tomorrow’s
PARTIES
smaller and smaller, was as close as I got to a party
back then. It was also my reality for three years.
I hated every second of it, but I also knew that the
next day would be exactly the same.
At the time, I didn’t think I had a problem with drink or
drugs, but looking back now, there are whole months of my
life that I don’t remember, and part of me is resentful towards Aged 13 and full of self-loathing, Lizzie Tarran
the oblivious person I used to be. I’ve had to wake up to discovered the numbing effect of alcohol. At 15, drugs
the reality of all the painful feelings I had tried to drown
out by using and drinking. and a coterie of friends who, like her, embraced
I’d had a hatred and resentment for myself since I was oblivion. Then, one morning, she decided to take a
young. It ate me alive, slowly growing until it became too leap of faith – perhaps life would be better sober…
uncomfortable to handle, and I decided to do something
about it. That’s how my drinking started, at a party, aged 13.
Getting drunk for the first time triggered the most get worse to get better. In time, the more effort I made,
overwhelming sense of relief and happiness, as if a huge the more new people I met, and I started to feel safe.
weight had been lifted from my shoulders. When I shared That’s not to say it wasn’t awkward. I would have awkward
this discovery with my friends – wasn’t it incredible to be coffees. Awkward lunches. Awkward movies. Awkward
able to forget yourself? – they looked at me like I was crazy. dinners. Awkward goodbyes. But I could see by the way the
Drinking was all I could think about. I made it my mission, people I was getting to know behaved with one another that
as much as possible, not to feel anything – in other words, they weren’t awkward in themselves – it was me who was the
to self-destruct. At 15, I found what I thought was my own awkward one. And while each day of forging new friendships
tribe, people who, like me, had also found the perfect solution. while sober was like reliving the first day at school, I knew
I still felt alone. I didn’t feel loved or cared for by any of that the dreaded, nauseating awkwardness would pass.
them. After the drink, after the drugs, I was still left with These people were emotionally intelligent, they’d been
myself – and I hated me. through similar things and had tried to unravel them. They
Trapped in the false comfort blanket of my world – friend’s had lives filled with interests, jobs, passions and plans. Some
houses, my bedroom and the anticipation of the next high didn’t, but that was OK, too. Most of all, they had my back.
– by the time I was 17, I was unable to go a day without a What did we have in common? We had struggled, and we
drink or drug. As my depression had progressed, so had my were still struggling, but we wanted change.
using. Then, one morning, I woke up to the realisation of I dodged my old friends for a while, slowly cutting ties
how alone I was, and decided to take a leap of faith to see if with most of them (which is very hard when they’re people
my life would get better without drink and drugs. I stopped. you go to school with). Gradually, as the toxicity became less
I tried to get clean on my own, but the longest I could prevalent, my new friendships became more real and relevant.
manage was just over a week, when the reality of the carnage And finally I was learning that I was worth far more than
I’d caused for myself and the people I loved became too the way being with my old friends had made me feel.
much to bear, and I would go back to square one. I had For my 18th birthday party, 20 of my closest friends showed
heard about 12-step programmes and thought they were up at my house. The vast majority were (and still are) sober,
for old men. Nevertheless, with an overwhelming fear of with the three old friends who do drink (thankfully, not from
things getting even worse than they already were, I gave my problem circle) abstaining from alcohol in order to
one a go, with no intention of making it an ongoing thing. celebrate with me – a fact my old self would have laughed
It was only when I started regularly attending fellowship at. Watching them all enjoying each other’s company, I realised
meetings, having an open mind and trusting people who
wanted to help, that everything really changed. My attempts
just how far I’d come and how much love I had.
As we approach party season, quickly followed by Dry
Writing this
to quit slowly evolved, one day at a time, until here I am, January, I can see, from my fresh perspective as an outsider, now, aged 18
a year and a half clean, and grateful for it. that the pressure to have fun while drinking is entrenched and nearly
Writing this now, aged 18 and nearly 18 months sober, in our society. It’s not something I can contemplate. Instead,
I realise that one of the hardest things about giving up (and, step by step, I’ve achieved more this year than I ever did 18 months
by the way, there are many hard things about it) was dealing before. I’ve started a new college and a new job, and I have sober, I realise
with loneliness. As excruciating as my time had been with a new boyfriend who understands my commitment to staying
people who didn’t care that much for me, they were still clean. The things I thought I’d miss out on, I’m actually that one of
my security. Though I felt lonely when I was with them, better off without. the hardest
I felt lonelier without them. Being newly sober on top of
that was the ultimate in self-isolation, but as long as they
I’ve learnt, through months of painful realisations and
mistakes, that there are no shortcuts to learning to be human things about
giving up was
COPPI BARBIERI

were still drinking and using, I couldn’t be with them. again. Being kind and giving yourself a break is a start.
In the beginning, I clung to the remaining young people
I knew like a leech; desperate for friendship and company,
Showing up to life, day after day, isn’t always fun, but it’s
the best party to be a guest at. n
dealing with
someone to make my fear of real life less real. It had to The writer’s name has been changed loneliness
97
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MONOMANIA
From polished hardware to op art-
style, this season’s black-and-white
combinations come with added pep.
Edited by Holly Tomalin.
Photographs by Crista Leonard

PALE INTO SIGNIFICANCE

Few things are more indulgent than winter white. Alexander
McQueen’s snowy coloured Story bag with shiny gold
hardware has fast-tracked its way to must-have accessory
status. A word of advice: wash hands before handling.
White leather Story bag, £1,650, Alexander McQueen
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CHECKLIST

Pouch, £350, MCM

Vogue, Early March 1960

Bag, £1,120,
Dsquared2

Skirt, £269,
Boss & Meissen

Mules, £395,
Stuart Weitzman

Dress, £450, Vogue, December 2017

Kate Spade
New York
CLAUDE VIRGIN; NICOLE MARIA WINKLER
SET DESIGN: LIANNA FOWLER.

Becca Lip Tint,

£19, exclusively
at Asos.com

Quartz
crystal
cluster,
£4,200,
Dale Rogers
Ammonite

Bag, £1,334,
Chloé
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Vogue, February 1948

Necklace, Bag, £2,630, Gucci
£510, Louis
Vuitton

Sunglasses,
£165, Aspinal
of London

Coat, £2,150, Michael

Kors Collection

Vogue, June 2018

Bag,
£1,305,
Tod’s

Sisley Velvet
Sleeping Mask, £93
CRISTA LEONARD; SET DESIGN: LIANNA FOWLER.
ERWIN BLUMENFELD; VENETIA SCOTT

Bag, £1,150,
Burberry
Earrings,
£290,
Bottega
Veneta

Laura Mercier
Caviar Eye Stick
Colour in Rose Boots,
Gold, £24 £179, Kurt
Geiger London
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CHECKLIST

POWDER
PLAYERS
Gently does it – creamy colours
rendered in sumptuously soft
textures point to feminine prowess

A DELICATE TOUCH
When it comes to sophisticated shapes and pretty palettes,
the Armani La Prima hits all the right notes. Beautifully
crafted in palmellato leather, it’s destined to become a classic.
Palmellato leather La Prima small shoulder bag,
£1,150, Giorgio Armani
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THE ALCHEMY COLLECTION

The CONFIDENCE to EXPERIMENT. The POWER to TRANSFORM.
The MASTERY to create YOUR BEST HAIR YET.

WWW.CLOUDNINEHAIR.COM
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BEAUTY
Hair: Ward Stegerhoek.
Make-up: Diane
Edited by Kathleen
Kendal. Fashion Baird-Murray
editor: Stella
Greenspan. Model:
Meghan Roche

SEALED
WITH A KISS
Need to give your lips some
I
t is a truth universally acknowledged, that no matter how
many lip balms you buy, you will always be frantically searching
serious TLC? Kathleen Baird- for one. Enter the lip balm wardrobe: Tinker Taylor’s Scrub,
Oil and Balm Kit, £64, created by make-up artist Zoë Taylor;
Murray has the lowdown on the Clé de Peau Beauté’s Lip Glorifier, £40, a hydrating balm with
lip balms to know. Photograph colour pH technology; and the one that turns humdrum into fun
– Lanolips 101 Ointment, from £11. It’s 100 per cent natural and
by Richard Burbridge comes in flavours from Coconutter to Lemonaid. Pucker up. n

105
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BEAUTY

Night
vısion
Leave the soirée looking as perfect as when you
arrived with these handbag essentials, says Twiggy
Jalloh. Photograph by Baker & Evans

Clockwise from top: leather bag, £1,710, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Givenchy Volume Disturbia Volume & Curve Mascara 24 Hours Wear in
Red Disturbia, £23.50. Dior Diorshow Liquid Mono Limited Edition long-wear eyeliner-eyeshadow in Gold Twinkle, £27.50. Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish Sublime
Perfection Foundation Brush, £51. YSL Beauty Rouge Pur Couture High On Stars Edition in Le Rouge, £29. Tom Ford Soleil Neige eau de parfum, £164.
Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Kissable Lip Shine in Peach Chill, £24. Armani Beauty Lip Maestro Liquid Lipstick in Sultan, £31
106
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DIRECTOR’S CUT
1 GEN Z DOES IT
When they’re not busy saving the planet,
Gen Z will be running cosmetics empires,
thanks to Vogue’s former creative director
Robin Derrick and Eyeko co-founder
Max Leykind. On their new platform,
My Beauty Brand, you can open your
own online store, build a community

5
and earn up to 20 per cent on sales of
its new ByMe make-up line. With nail
polish colours edited by Marian
ALL MOUTH Newman and pure pigment
pay-off in eyeshadows (left),
The news that porphyromonas it’s as inspirational as the
gingivalis, the bacterium largely youth it’s aimed at.
responsible for gum disease, has also Mybeautybrand.com

5
been found in the brains of those
with Alzheimer’s – the leading cause
of death in England and Wales –
means it’s time to floss like our lives

2
depend on it. Expect to see bacteria-
balancing mouthwashes, gentle and

TAKE
efficient brushes, and mouth- ONE-HIT
microbiome friendly toothpastes, WONDERS
such as Happier’s (above right), £12.
The unquenchable
thirst for one-stop
Twenty-nineteen broke new beauty isn’t going
beauty ground – goodbye greige anywhere. For hair, I’m
foundations, hello a fascination trialling Beauty Pie’s
new Booster shots
with gut health – and 2020 (above and left). Out in
promises to be even more extra, February, they work like
says Kathleen Baird-Murray deep salon treatments
but only take a minute
to apply. For skin, I’m a
fan of Ole Henriksen’s
Power Peel Transforming
Facial System, £44, a
one-minute scrub and
two-minute peel,
followed by a relaxing
chamomile mask.

3 CHANGE IS IN THE HAIR

FILL HER UP
Thanks to the likes of Lancôme Idôle
4 Hair extensions are big business – by
2024 global revenue is expected to reach
£3.9 billion – but, ethically speaking,
there’s still no regulatory body to ensure
yours are coming from a reliable source.
(above), £75 and £59.50 to refill, and The
While industry insiders continue to
Body Shop’s new concept-store refilling
campaign for more stringent conditions,
stations (an idea first promulgated by Anita
look for human hair extensions that can
Roddick some 20 years ago), 2020 will be
be traced back to official auctions of
the year of the reuseable. My personal
tresses donated in Hindu tonsuring
favourites: Humankind’s subscription
rituals – such as those from market
deodorant (above right), from £14; and
leader Great Lengths, whose pieces are
Cosmydor’s Organic Precious Liquid Soaps
often seen backstage. Greatlengths.net
PIXELATE.BIZ

(right), £28, the beautiful glass bottles of

which can be used over and over again.

108
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BEAUTY
SAM McKNIGHT

VAL GARLAND

Talkin’ lend warmth to my complexion. A liquid

or cream-textured bronzer warmed up

bout a
PAT McGRATH between the fingers and tapped on to
cheeks is enough to give the natural
effect that I want.

resolution
I’ll also be kick-starting my detox by
eating healthily and juicing celery. And
I’m going to get back into Pilates – let’s
see how that goes!”
Advice for 2020, from Vogue’s Hair by Sam McKnight
contributing beauty editors SAM McKNIGHT: Easy-Up Do Texture
Spray, £25
HAIRSTYLES AND HIKING
“Let’s stop being afraid of hair. Learn to
PAT McGRATH: SKINCARE love it. It can be fun. Try a flash of colour,
AND SELF-CARE or wear it in a considered up-do or a braid
“Make a resolution to look after your skin. – if that’s something you don’t normally
Go for a facial and reassess your skincare do. This is where the hair accessory comes
regime. Also, check the colour of your into its own. Keep the up-do simple – use
foundation against your skin every six a little Sam McKnight Easy-Up Do to
months to make sure they still match – keep it in place – but decorate with an
once you’ve established your winter and antique brooch, a pin or a beautiful ribbon
summer shades, it’s easy to mix them from VV Rouleaux. Try a fringe or – less
together for the in-between times. commitment – a soft fringe, perhaps?
As for me, my 2020 beauty Cut a few shorter pieces in front of the
resolution is to take more time ear and around the front to sexify an up-
for self-care. Whether it’s paper style, so that the hair frames your face.
face masks, massages, oil-infused Best to visit a hairdresser and ask them
baths, at-home facials; more advanced what works for you, and then see how you
treatments, such as lymphatic drainage, can do it yourself.
LED light therapy or an Oxylight facial; On a personal level, I’m going to try to
or checking into the spa for some R&R… reduce my sugar intake, and although I
the sky’s the limit. Anything that requires already do a lot of hiking and walking,
me to take a few hours for myself is good.” I want to do more. I’d like to discover the
Dorset coast and venture inland, visiting
GUIDO PALAU: A a few gardens along the way.”
SUGAR-FREE ESCAPE
Pat McGrath Labs “The best reboot for the New Year is a CHARLOTTE TILBURY:
Skin Fetish: trip to The Ranch Malibu. Its detox diet is UNLOCK THE POWER CHARLOTT
E TILBURY
Sublime Perfection
Foundation, £60
plant-based, with zero sugar. (There’s also “This year, I want to keep spreading the
daily hiking and yoga.) My resolution is to magical energy of make-up and skincare
continue eating that way when I leave.” throughout the world. The easiest beauty
resolution to follow is to keep your skin
VAL GARLAND: GLOW healthy, happy and hydrated, so I apply
WITH CONFIDENCE Magic Cream using my ‘Tilbury tap’
“I’d like everyone to have the confidence technique: sweeping and massaging it
to do the things they want to do and be upwards and outwards, then tapping
comfortable wearing the make-up they it in all over the face to boost circulation.
BEN HASSETT; TERRY TSIOLIS;
GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ

want to wear. Don’t be a crowd-pleaser As for my resolution, I am obsessed with

– dare to think of yourself first and crystals, so I’ll be focusing on learning
foremost. There are no rules. more about them for 2020. I’ve been using Charlotte Tilbury
For my own beauty resolution, I’m a very special, crystal-infused secret for Charlotte’s Magic
Cream, £49
going to be using one of my best tricks: my skin, which gives a glowing, hydrated
at this time of year, when my skin is and youthful complexion. I can’t wait to
mottled, I’ll use a bronzer as a blush to share it with the world later this year.” n

PALAU 111
GUIDO
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MOD-ERN
MOOD
DIGITAL ARTWORK: DTOUCH LDN

High-rise hair? Pastel eyes? New season beauty is a nod to the Mods of the 1960s,
says Lauren Murdoch-Smith. Photographs by Matt Easton. Styling by Dena Giannini
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BEAUTY

Opposite: how to create

’60s eyes in an instant?
Against a backdrop of
pastel eyeshadow, apply
Maybelline TattooStudio
Liquid Ink Eyeliner, £10,
as close to the lash line as
possible before extending
outwards. Finish with
lashings of Maybelline
Falsies Lash Lift Mascara,
£10. Jewelled cardigan,
£2,410, Miu Miu.
This page: brocade jacket,
from £775, No 21.
Hair: Panos Papandrianos.
Make-up: Erin Parsons.
Nails: Gina Edwards.
Production: Honor Hellon
Production. Model:
Vanessa Moody

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This page: height is key

for ’60s hair. While your
locks are wet, apply
Pantene Pro-V Perfect
Volume Mousse, £3. Take
the hair on the top half of
your head and pin it back
on itself in a roll shape.
Dry off the bottom half
using a diffuser to create
volume, then tong lightly.
Remove the pins from the
roll, backcomb close to
the roots and dry until
smooth before pinning
back into position. Crêpe
blouse, £400, MSGM.
Opposite: jacquard
top, sold as part of
dress, £13,500, Gucci.
For stockists, all pages,
see Vogue Information
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BEAUTY

115
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TABLETS

SKIN, HAIR, NAILS

PERFEC TIL.COM
From Boots, Superdrug, supermarkets,
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BEAUTY

EXPRESS
YOURSELF
Gym time, but not
as you know it.
Lauren Murdoch-Smith
crunches the numbers
to reveal the best
super-speedy
but effective
workouts around

15 MINUTES

45
THE CLOCK offers a unique
approach to staying fit, with micro

35
training sessions that focus on
high-intensity weightlifting to
strengthen and build muscles from If you enjoy high-intensity workouts
a specifically developed workout but can’t face the length of a normal MINUTES
plan. Each session works on a class, try Another Space’s HIIT 35,
different muscle group (shoulders an alternative to its 45-minute HIIT
and arms, chest and back, legs and workouts. You’ll still experience a high-
calves), but always finishes with an energy metabolism boost with interval CLIMB TO THE BEAT
abdominal exercise. Your diet will
MINUTES body-weight training using TRX and is one of Sweat by BXR’s
also be assessed. Be warned, sugar medicine balls, as well as intense pay-to-train, studio-based,
instructor-led Versaclimber

30
is a big no-no. Theclock.com punch-bag work. Anotherspace.london
classes. Versaclimbers are
vertical exercise machines
American import SoulCycle has We all love the rewards of a 60-minute that mimic rock climbing,
introduced SOUL30, a shorter boxing class (stomach strengthening, offering a full-body,
but just as effective version of arm work and stamina), so KOBOX has low-impact workout that
its regular classes. Expect the crunched its session into a 30-minute activates all muscle groups.
same sprints, hills and powerful format available during lunchtimes at Expect improved posture
energy, with the added reward its City and Marylebone studios. This and strength as a result.
ALASDAIR McLELLAN

MINUTES of a superfood smoothie from means no time for a break (making it The class burns, on
The Good Life Eatery, prepped more intense) and one less round of average, 800 calories.
during the class for maximum bag work. All the benefits of boxing, Strong stuff.
efficiency. Soul-cycle.com in half the time. Koboxboxingclub.com Sweatbybxr.com

117
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BEAUTY

What Bobbi did next

W
hat you put inside your
Below,
from top: Navy body is just as important
Professional as what you put on your
slanted tweeze, face,” says Bobbi Brown,
£34; light curve
scissor, £28; who built one of the industry’s most
manicure multi successful make-up brands and is now
tool, £36 set to conquer the nutritional supplement
market. Evolution_18 is a lifestyle and
wellness range that follows Brown’s
“beauty from the inside out” philosophy
and launches with eight products, aimed

BEAUTY MUSINGS
at answering women’s beauty concerns.
Standouts include Beauty Gummy,
packed with biotin for hair and nails;
Beauty Glow, a hyaluronic acid and
The new decade brings a wave collagen capsule; and Beauty Superfood
of beauty and wellness launches, Powder, a blend of more than 30 fruit
and vegetable extracts, healthy fats and
says Lauren Murdoch-Smith prebiotic fibres. From £15, at Boots.com

LOVE IN A COLD CLIMATE

As we hit the harsher side of the season, skin requires
extra attention. Try de Mamiel’s Winter Facial Oil, £80,
a hand-blended mix that includes Arctic cranberry-
seed oil (a source of essential fatty acids and vitamin E)
and flower essences to heal inflamed or chapped skin.
The Light Salon has also launched at-home Boost
Hydrogel sheet masks for the décolletage and face,
£42 for three.
BLOWN AWAY
Both help hydrate, The humble hairdryer has
Tool up smooth and
replenish lost
changed significantly in the last
few years, with the launch of
Navy Professional is changing nutrients. Dyson’s Supersonic, T3’s Cura
ARIS JEROME/ART PARTNER; PIXELATE.BIZ

Luxe Hair Dryer, and now the

the face of beauty equipment. Helios (£159, right), the latest
Founder Rebecca Crawforth’s innovation from GHD, which
mission was to reduce the took more than three years to
estimated 1.3 million beauty develop. Lightweight but
powerful, at a staggering 2,200
tools that end up in landfill watts, it replaces GHD’s superior
each month by creating kits pro-dryer, the Aura. Tech geeks
with precision, hygiene and will love the brushless motor,
longevity in mind. Not only precision airflow and
does the titanium, gold-finish temperature-control technology,
but we’re excited by the
coating look chic, it’s durable significantly quicker drying time
and helps prevent bacteria, too. and visibly shinier (by 30 per
Navyprofessional.com cent) hair. Ghdhair.com

118
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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
Right: Lumity
Morning & Night
Supplements,
£75 for a single
purchase.
Below: Lumity
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YOU MIGHT THINK OF SLEEP as your body’s

opportunity to rest, but while you’re enjoying some much-
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a long day. Lumity’s innovative Morning & Night
Supplements are designed to work alongside your circadian
rhythm, aiding your body’s internal clock to ensure that the
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a significant improvement in the condition of their hair,
skin and nails. And, as a result of a boosted metabolism and
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experienced fewer energy slumps throughout the day.
Lumity also makes it as easy as possible to fit supplements
Innovative
into your lifestyle. The brand offers a subscription service, Morning
delivering new capsules every 28 days so that you never find & Night
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cancel or pause at any time. The planet won’t suffer either, work
as Lumity is committed to protecting the world we live in
– not just our bodies and minds. Reusable glass bottles, alongside
plastic-free refill pouches and recyclable outer packaging your body’s
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compromising on luxury. n
circadian
Experience the benefits of Lumity for yourself at Lumitylife.co.uk rhythm
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THE
SECRET’S
OUT
Victoria’s Secret explores
themes of body-confidence
and self-empowerment
through a woman’s lens –
the results of which are
inspiring and innately sexy.
Photographs by Greta Ilieva.
Styling by Rachel Bakewell

Chantilly lace long

line bralette, £35.
Lace PJ pant, £75
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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP
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Chantilly lace bra

and boxer set, £69
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VOGUE PARTNERSHIP

Right: mesh plunge

bra, £45. High-
waist V-string
panty, £25
HAIR: ELIOT McQUEEN. MAKE-UP: VASSILIS THEOTOKIS. SET DESIGN: PENNY MILLS.
MODELS: ALEXANDRA HUTCHISON, TAYLAH KEREAMA

THE ONE INSTRUCTION Greta Ilieva gave to models This authenticity is central to the next chapter of
wearing Victoria’s Secret lingerie on the British Vogue set? Victoria’s Secret. The style and fit of the underwear in the
“Please yourself.” The photographer says, “I told them to pictures illustrate that it has been designed for real women:
imagine shooting their own pictures and to think about from the pretty-yet-robust lace to the functional cross-back
how they would like to be seen.” The resulting portraits, seen straps and discreet sheer mesh panelling.
through a woman’s gaze, symbolise female empowerment “I’m interested in nudity from a point of view, not just
and confidence in its most stripped-back form. a body shape,” adds Ilieva. The models’s ease and self-
“It’s an emotional experience,” Ilieva continues of assuredness wearing Victoria’s Secret is innately sexy and
photographing a person in a closed setting where nudity doesn’t require any glossy filter or veneer on top. True
is the elevated to art. “When a subject shows me their self-belief lies within. n
insecurities, it is incredibly intimate and ultimately Victoria’s Secret has 26 stores across the UK and Ireland. Bra
beautiful… yet there’s a realness to it.” Imperfections are fittings are complimentary and there is no need to make an
to be celebrated, agrees the brand. appointment. View the collection at Victoriassecret.co.uk
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From left:
Tami Williams
wears sleeveless
coat, £4,400.
Belted gilet,
£2,900.
Trousers,
£1,150.
All Dior.
Joan Smalls
wears coat,
£1,790. Jacket,
£1,350.
Jumpsuit,
£1,290.
All Burberry.
Wrap necklace,
£13,300,
Tiffany.
Meghan Roche
wears pinstripe
jumpsuit,
£2,350, Louis
Vuitton

CALL TO ACTION
STYLING: DENA GIANNINI. HAIR: PANOS PAPANDRIANOS.
MAKE-UP: ERIN PARSONS. NAILS: LOLLY KOON

CHANGE IS IN THE AIR. NOT SOME FLEETING “MOOD OF THE MOMENT”, BUT MEANINGFUL CHANGE.
PERHAPS IT’S BECAUSE WE’RE TEETERING ON THE CUSP OF A NEW DECADE, BUT FASHION – AND ITS IMPACT
ON OUR PLANET – IS WHAT’S DRIVING THE VOGUE CONVERSATION NOW. WHAT IS CRYSTAL CLEAR IS THAT A
MORE SUSTAINABLE APPROACH IS CRUCIAL TO OUR FUTURE: BUY LESS, BUY BETTER IS HOW WE’RE PUTTING IT.
WE’RE CELEBRATING THE PIECES THAT ENDURE. TAKE THIS MONTH’S COVER LOOK: A 2005 TWEED JACKET
FROM THE CHANEL ARCHIVES. DOESN’T IT LOOK AS GOOD NOW AS IT DID BACK THEN? (DARE WE SAY BETTER?)
WE CONSIDER THAT A SMART BUY. SO, TOO, ANYTHING THAT HAS THE POWER TO TRANSCEND TRENDS: AN
ALL-EMPOWERING MANNISH SUIT, A CLASSIC COAT, A HEART-QUICKENING 1970s PUSSY-BOW BLOUSE, BLUE
JEANS… THEY WILL FOREVER RULE. BECAUSE TRUE STYLE ISN’T BORN OF THE NEWEST, LATEST THING,
IT’S ALWAYS – AND ONLY EVER – ABOUT HOW YOU WEAR IT. PHOTOGRAPH BY MATT EASTON
125
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY CRAIG McDEAN

STYLING BY EDWARD ENNINFUL

O
n a grey London afternoon in late September, I have two Scottish Folds, we think the third is a Ragdoll mix.
Taylor Swift slips quietly through the doors of a You’re probably never going to talk to me again, but you
north London recording studio. It is an auspicious know I’ve got a puppy? He’s called Mojito.
moment: the queen of confessional pop has come I heard about this! How does he get along in the hierarchy?
to meet Andrew Lloyd Webber, the king of musical theatre. Well, he believes he’s a little bear actually. He’s a Havanese
Together, Swift, who turns 30 this month, and Lloyd Webber, dog, which I got because Glenn Close has one.
71, have written “Beautiful Ghosts”, a new song for the I’ve met that dog, he’s really good.
soon-to-be-released film adaptation of Cats – Webber’s 1981 You come from Pennsylvania.
extravaganza, which ran in the West End and on Broadway I do. People seem to think I was raised in the south, but I’m
for a combined total of almost 40 years. In it, Swift plays from the north – grew up on a Christmas tree farm, then moved
Bombalurina, and like her co-stars – Idris Elba, Judi Dench, to Nashville when I was 14.
Francesca Hayward, Ian McKellen, Jennifer Hudson, Rebel And you wanted to move to Nashville for the songwriting
Wilson – appears in full, furry CGI glory. Track finished, or the singing? Or both?
these two titans of the music industry sit down to talk… Both – I was just obsessed with Shania Twain, Faith Hill,
Dixie Chicks, and the thing they had in common was that
Andrew Lloyd Webber: Well, the first thing we have to clear they had gotten discovered in Nashville. So I had it in my
up is that we both love cats. head that this is a magical place where discoveries are made WOOL/LUREX
BABYDOLL DRESS,
Taylor Swift: [Laughs] We do! One of the first things you and people are able to do music as a living. £590, JW ANDERSON.
said to me when we met was that you’re president of the Was it the storytelling side of country songs that you liked? HAIR: GUIDO PALAU.
COLOURIST: VICTORIA
Turkish Van Cat Club. Absolutely. It reminded me of the ’90s, when you had these HUNTER. MAKE-UP:
Professionally, there is nowhere I can go to top this, as you amazing female singer-songwriters like Alanis Morissette and PAT McGRATH. NAILS:
MEGUMI YAMAMOTO.
can completely understand. Sarah McLachlan; incredible female writers like Melissa SET DESIGN: MARY
I have three cats. How many do you have now? Etheridge, Shawn Colvin; and these types of Lilith Fair women. HOWARD. PRODUCTION:
PRODN AT ART &
I have three, too – they are all Turkish Vans. And you’ve got Then you started to hit the 2000s and the only place I could COMMERCE. DIGITAL
a Scottish Fold I believe. find real confessional storytelling was country music. > 130 ARTWORK: DTOUCH

127
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WOOL/LUREX MINIDRESS,
£865, MARC JACOBS.
CASHMERE/SILK SOCKS,
FROM £145, MARIA
LA ROSA. GOLD AND
DIOPSIDE RING, PRICE
ON REQUEST, GRIMA
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FOR NEW ARTISTS NOWADAYS,

IT FEELS LIKE THE TRAJECTORY
OF THEIR CAREER IS LIKE
BEING SHOT OUT OF A CANON
INTO A STRATOSPHERE
THEY COULD IN NO WAY
BE PREPARED FOR
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Did you know anybody when you got to Nashville? One of the things I worked out very early was Lloyd Webber
No, we didn’t really. I’d been going there on vacation with my and lyrics are not a good idea.
family, and my mom, my little brother and I would stay in a Wow. It is a good alliteration, though.
hotel and try to meet people. Eventually, after several trips, You were 19, weren’t you, when you had your first big hit?
I got a development deal – it’s a non-committal record deal, I was about 18 when “Love Story”, a song I’d written alone,
like, “We’ll watch you develop for a year and then we’ll decide was a worldwide hit. I was lucky enough to work my way up
if we sign you.” That was grounds enough to move the family. in country music, for new artists nowadays, it feels like the
Presumably you were in school in Nashville as well? trajectory of their career is like being shot out of a canon into
Yes, I was going to high school during the day and doing my a stratosphere they could in no way be prepared for. I got to
songwriting sessions at night. It was a double life. I’d be writing sort of acclimate to every step of the path I was on, and by the
notes in class, and my teachers never knew if they were notes time I had a massive hit I’d been working since I was 14. Moving
for my class or if I’d gotten an idea for a song. from country music to pop was a crazy adjustment for me.
How many songs would you write in a day? And now we’ve written “Beautiful Ghosts” together for Cats.
Usually, never more than one. I had these sessions every day, I remember the moment. I went over to your apartment to
and if I didn’t come in with a good idea, I’d get stared at. rehearse “Macavity” and you sat down at the piano and
You’re not inspired every day, as you know, but you have to started to play this haunting, beautiful melody, and I think
show up and treat it like a job. That’s where I learned the I just started singing to it right away.
craft of songwriting. You wrote the lyrics more
I’ve never worked like that, or less then and there – it
because I’m so story driven. was fantastic.
What interests me, though, It’s a different perspective on
is how Nashville works. the song “Memory”, too, and
How did you get your foot the character of Grizabella
on the performing ladder? [played by Jennifer Hudson],
It was really writing first. At who used to have majestic,
the same time, I was singing glamorous times and doesn’t
the national anthem every anymore. On the other side
time I could – at festivals of it, you have this little
and fairs and bars, anywhere white cat [Victoria, played
I could get up on stage. I was by Francesca Hayward]
trying to hone both sides of who’s been abandoned –
what I was doing, but I’m she’s afraid she’ll never have
very well aware that I would a chance to have beautiful
not have a career if I hadn’t memories. So that’s where
been a writer. I wouldn’t she’s singing “Beautiful
have just been a singer, it Ghosts” from, to counter
wouldn’t have worked. Grizabella’s idea of tragedy.
I guess that, today, very few I’d like to come back to
people have a major career something I thought when
unless they write. I heard your album, Lover
Yeah, I agree. I think it’s – which is really absolutely
really important – also from brilliant. Am I right in
the side of ownership over thinking you approached
what you do and make. its recording just as
Even if you aren’t a natural though you were giving
writer, you should try to live performances?
involve yourself in the I did. I was really singing a
messages you’re sending. lot at that point – I’d just come from a stadium tour, and then
How does a young country artist get their first break? did Cats, which was all based on live performances – so a lot
I worked as hard as I could, reached out to as many people as of that album is nearly whole takes. When you perform live,
THIS PAGE: WOOL I could to make sure I got meetings with publishing companies you’re narrating and you’re getting into the story and you’re
JACKET, £2,030, GUCCI.
POLONECK, £520, and labels. They didn’t come about very easily, but once I got making faces that are ugly and you’re putting a different
VICTORIA BECKHAM. in the room I’d just get out my guitar and play for them. meaning on a song every time you perform it.
JEANS, £300, CITIZENS
OF HUMANITY, AT Do you have to sing in a certain club to get to the next stage? That’s the point isn’t it.
HARRODS. LEATHER Everyone does it a different way, but the Bluebird Cafe is a Yeah.
BOOTS, £1,195, GIANVITO
ROSSI. LEATHER BAG, place where everyone was discovered – from Garth Brooks Does that ever make you feel you want to be an actress?
TO ORDER, DIOR. to Faith Hill to, arguably, me. I have no idea. When I was younger, I used to get questions
RING, AS BEFORE.
I remember being at your house after we’d written a song, like, “Where do you see yourself in 10 years?” I’d try to answer.
OPPOSITE: WOOL
BLAZER, £2,020. COTTON and you telling me you’d bought it when you were 24 or As I get older, I’m learning that wisdom is learning how
SHIRT, £520. CHARM something, that’s when I realised just how young you were dumb you are compared to how much you are going to know.
NECKLACE, £250. ALL
SAINT LAURENT BY when you had a vision to be doing this at such a high level. I really had an amazing time with Cats. I think I loved the
ANTHONY VACCARELLO. I was writing for the theatre when I was eight-years-old. I weirdness of it. I loved how I felt I’d never get another
JEANS, £200, MOTHER.
SUEDE BOOTS, FROM had a little toy theatre and did dreadful musicals on terrible opportunity to be like this in my life.
£325, STELLA LUNA. subjects. Then, when I was about 13, I met a boy who wanted It’s weird, what I’ve seen of the movie.
GOLD AND LODOLITE
RING, PRICE ON to write lyrics, and we did a couple of musicals at school. It’s decidedly weird [they laugh].
REQUEST, GRIMA So from the beginning you would pair up with a lyricist? I think Tom [Hooper, the film’s director] has really tried to >

130
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I REALLY HAD AN
AMAZING TIME WITH
CATS. I THINK I LOVED
THE WEIRDNESS OF IT.
I LOVED HOW I FELT
I’D NEVER GET ANOTHER
OPPORTUNITY TO
BE LIKE THIS IN MY LIFE

make something original. And I agree, I think as you get

older you do become less sure of yourself and start to question
what you can do. Would you consider doing a musical?
A musical? Absolutely, absolutely.
Or writing your own?
That is way up there on my list of dreams.
You should.
Was it really wonderful for you when you got the news that
Judi Dench had accepted the role of Old Deuteronomy?
Judi was in the original version in 1981 but she snapped her
Achilles tendon and had to withdraw. Then I had this idea,
which I ran past Tom, that we could make Old Deuteronomy
a woman. Seeing her perform this time was quite an emotional
thing for me, because it was a very, very sad day when she
had to leave the original show.
She’s lovely. I remember being on set, and there is one scene
that Idris [Elba, who plays Macavity] and I do with Judi, and
someone walked up to me with this kind of gummy candy
and I was like, “Oh, I’ve never had this before, this must be
British candy, this is amazing.” I was raving about this candy
so much, and Judi must have overheard me, because the next
day I got to my dressing room and there was a signed photo
from Judi and, like, six bags of it [they laugh].
Andrew, we both started young. What do we have in
common from our experiences? What do you think was hard
about it? And what was great?
I suppose what was hard for me was that I was a fish out of
the mainstream water. In the 1960s, to love musicals was as
uncool as you could possibly be, and kids in my class at school
would laugh at me.
I was the same. I loved country music and, where I was in
school, the kids were just completely perplexed by that. It’s
gotten more mainstream, but when I was a 13-year-old in
Pennsylvania, I got similar reactions. Do you feel like you’re
glad you were really young when you started?
Yeah, are you?
I’m really glad, even though there are challenges to it – like
you’re not allowed to make the same mistakes as everyone
else because your mistakes are a commodity.
And your mistakes are made in public. But we share
something in common, in which we are extremely lucky.
We both knew at an early age what we wanted to do, and
most people in life don’t have a clue.
That’s very true. I think, also, a lot of the time when people
see a career that they want it can be results-based. Rather
than wanting to write musicals, they want to be a person who
has written musicals. But when I see you work, I see you
consistently creating and being curious about the next idea.
You relish in the process even more than the rewards, which
is the advice I would give anyone who wanted to do anything
remotely close to this job. It cannot be about the results.
It’s the process isn’t it?
SILK BLOUSE, FROM It has to be. It’s supposed to be fun! n
£1,200, GIVENCHY Cats will be in cinemas on 20 December

133
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THIS PAGE: GABARDINE

WAISTCOAT, SILK AND
BRODERIE ANGLAISE
BLOUSE, GABARDINE
SKIRT, SUEDE BOOTS AND
PENDANT NECKLACE. ALL
TO ORDER, CELINE BY
HEDI SLIMANE. LEATHER
BELT, £850, HERMES.
RING, AS BEFORE.
OPPOSITE: BODY, £700.
PLEATED SKIRT, £1,060.
SUEDE BOOTS, £1,230.
ALL GUCCI. LEATHER
BELT, £850, HERMES.
PENDANT NECKLACE AND
RINGS, AS BEFORE

134
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YOU RELISH IN THE

PROCESS EVEN MORE
THAN THE REWARDS,
WHICH IS THE ADVICE
I WOULD GIVE
ANYONE WHO WANTED
TO DO ANYTHING REMOTELY
CLOSE TO THIS JOB
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SILK BLOUSE,
FROM £1,200,
GIVENCHY. BODY,
£200, G LABEL, AT
GOOP.COM. TIGHTS,
£35, WOLFORD,
AT SELFRIDGES.
RING, AS BEFORE.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL
PAGES, SEE VOGUE
INFORMATION

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Flights LOOKING FOR

A MIDWINTER
PICK-ME-UP? TAKE
THE GLORIOUS
PLUMES AND
NIGHT-FLOWERING
BLOOMS OF THE
PRE-COLLECTIONS
AND ALLOW YOUR
IMAGINATION TO SOAR.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
HARLEY WEIR.
STYLING BY
JULIA SARR-JAMOIS
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PETAL POWER: EMPORIO

ARMANI’S FLARED
MONOCHROME MINI PACKS
JUST AS MUCH PUNCH AS PINK.
OPPOSITE: QUILTED JACQUARD
DRESS, £900, EMPORIO
ARMANI. FEATHER TOP, WORN
UNDERNEATH, TO ORDER,
RICHARD QUINN. SUEDE
AND ORGANZA SHOES, £805,
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI. DIAMOND
EARRINGS, CARTIER.
NOTHING SAYS “LIFE IS
A BANQUET” QUITE LIKE
ACRES OF OSCAR DE LA
RENTA PLUMAGE.
THIS PAGE: FEATHER GOWN,
£22,190, OSCAR DE LA RENTA.
PLATINUM AND DIAMOND
EARRINGS, BULGARI.
HAIR: CYNDIA HARVEY.
MAKE-UP: LAUREN PARSONS.
NAILS: SYLVIE MACMILLAN.
FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS: LISA
BRITTON AT FLORA STARKEY.
SET DESIGN: ALICE KIRKPATRICK.
PRODUCTION: ART PARTNER
AND SHINY PROJECTS.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: UPPER
STUDIO. MODELS: TEHYA
ELAM, JESS MAYBURY, TESS
McMILLAN, ARIISH WOL

of fancy
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BURNISHED GOLD NEVER

FAILS TO LIFT THE SPIRITS:
DOLCE & GABBANA’S
LAMPSHADE DRESS IS
POSITIVELY DIVINE.
THIS PAGE: LUREX DRESS
WITH TULLE UNDERSKIRT,
£2,150, DOLCE & GABBANA.
JEWELLED SUEDE SANDALS,
£895, JIMMY CHOO. HAT, TO
ORDER, PIERS ATKINSON.
SLEEVE NOTES: MIU MIU’S
SEQUIN-CHOKED EMERALD
TAFFETA IS ON TRACK
FOR HEIRLOOM STATUS.
OPPOSITE: SEQUINED SILK
DRESS, £12,530, MIU MIU.
LACE GLOVES, FROM £60,
WING & WEFT GLOVES

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RUFFLES AND FEATHERS?

MARC JACOBS DARES YOU –
AND SHE WHO DARES…
THIS PAGE: SILK-ORGANZA
DRESS, £3,865, MARC
JACOBS. FEATHER SHOES,
FROM £1,450, GIAMBATTISTA
VALLI. HEADPIECE, TO
ORDER, PIERS ATKINSON.
LACE GLOVES, £85,
CORNELIA JAMES.
EMULATE THE FLUSH OF
WINTER CHEEKS USING DIOR
DIORSKIN ROSY GLOW
HEALTHY GLOW BOOSTER
BLUSH IN PETAL, £35.
OPPOSITE: SILK-TAFFETA
CAPE, £6,620, MOSCHINO.
NET GLOVES, £75,
CORNELIA JAMES

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BLACK TUXEDOS ARE ALL

WELL AND GOOD – BUT
DOESN’T VALENTINO’S PEACH
DREAM LOOK INVITING?
THIS PAGE: BELTED SILK
TUNIC EMBELLISHED
WITH FEATHERS, £6,400,
VALENTINO. SATIN AND
FEATHER SHOES, £550, GINA.
VINTAGE HAT, COURTESY OF
ACADEMY COSTUMES.
TAKE A CLOSER LOOK:
MYTHOLOGICAL CREATURES
DANCE ACROSS MARIA GRAZIA
CHIURI’S DIOR CREATIONS.
OPPOSITE: COTTON
MINIDRESS WITH CUT-OUT
DETAIL, TO ORDER, DIOR.
LATEX BODY, £315, ATSUKO
KUDO. LEATHER BOOTS,
£1,790, ALESSANDRA RICH.
PEARL AND DIAMOND
EARRINGS, FROM £5,275
A PAIR, TIFFANY
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145
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ENJOY THE EXOTIC

TRIMMINGS OF LIFE: SAINT
LAURENT’S OSTRICH-
DECKED COCKTAIL NUMBER
IS SYNONYMOUS WITH FUN.
THIS PAGE: BUSTIER DRESS
EMBELLISHED WITH
FEATHERS, £3,385, SAINT
LAURENT BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. FEATHER
HEADDRESS, TO ORDER,
CELIA KRITHARIOTI
COUTURE. WHITE-
GOLD AND DIAMOND
NECKLACE, CARTIER.
CELIA KRITHARIOTI’S
TACTILE EXEMPLAR IS NOT
FOR THE FAINT-HEARTED.
WE SAY: LIVE A LITTLE.
OPPOSITE: VELVET
AND FEATHER DRESS,
TO ORDER, CELIA
KRITHARIOTI COUTURE.
VELVET AND CRYSTAL
SHOES, £915, MANOLO
BLAHNIK. FEATHER
HEADPIECE, TO ORDER,
PIERS ATKINSON

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DIFFUSE AND ENHANCE

FLICKERS OF SUN ON
SKIN USING DIOR BRONZE
BEAUTIFYING PROTECTIVE
MILKY MIST SUBLIME
GLOW SPF50, £32.
THIS PAGE: FEATHER
TOP AND SKIRT, TO ORDER.
MESH SLIP DRESS, WORN
UNDERNEATH, TO ORDER.
ALL BURBERRY. SATIN
AND FEATHER SHOES, TO
ORDER, GINA COUTURE.
RHINESTONE LAPELS
WILL RENDER ANY
COMPLEXION DAZZLING –
JUST ASK MICHAEL KORS.
OPPOSITE: CREPE BLAZER
EMBELLISHED WITH CRYSTALS
AND FEATHERS, £5,480. WHITE
SILK SHIRT, £775. BOTH
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION.
WHITE-GOLD AND DIAMOND
EARRINGS, CHOPARD. HAT,
TO ORDER, 16 ARLINGTON
& NOEL STEWART.
PRICES ON REQUEST UNLESS
OTHERWISE STATED.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION
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149
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THE VAST FABRIC

ARCHIVE AT ALEXANDER
McQUEEN INSPIRED SOME
SERIOUS UPCYCLING
FROM SARAH BURTON:
A CORSET DRESS, MADE
FROM HAND-CUT FLORAL
FIL COUPE JACQUARD
LEFTOVERS, IS AN
EXQUISITE EXAMPLE.
THIS PAGE: COATED
COTTON PONCHO, £995,
SSONE. UPCYCLED DRESS,
TO ORDER, ALEXANDER
McQUEEN. COTTON HAT,
£210. BASEBALL CAP,
£315. BOTH MIU MIU.
LEATHER SLIDES, £725,
BOTTEGA VENETA.
MAISON MARGIELA’S
ARCHIVAL CLASSICS
NEVER DATE: AN S/S ’19
TRENCH AND S/S ’17
SKIRT HOLD THEIR OWN
AGAINST NEW-SEASON
BALENCIAGA SLIDES.
OPPOSITE: ARCHIVE
TRENCH COAT AND
JACQUARD SKIRT SUIT
WITH BRAIDED RUBBER
TRIM. BOTH MAISON
MARGIELA. FRINGED
LEATHER MULES,
£595, BALENCIAGA
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WASTE
NOT Upcycling, recycling, offsetting and
traceability… Fashion is finally working to
tackle climate change. Tamsin Blanchard
examines the world of sustainable style,
while Vogue contributing fashion director
Kate Phelan mixes archive pieces with
those from a/w ’19 and resort 2020 to
celebrate it. Photographs by Craig McDean

P
erhaps it was seeing the Amazon rainforest burning.
Perhaps it was hearing Greta Thunberg’s
impassioned speech at the United Nations Climate
Action Summit in New York. Perhaps it was
encountering Extinction Rebellion supporters campaigning
outside Victoria Beckham’s catwalk venue with placards that
read: “Business As Usual Is Killing The Planet.” Whatever
the reason, if 2019 was the year the fashion industry owned
up to its undeniable impact on climate change, 2020 looks “This is what I want you to see,” she said, triumphantly
set to be the year it takes action. holding up a recyclable cardboard hanger produced by an Israeli
There’s a new mood sweeping through fashion right now. company, as she told me about the 20 billion plastic hangers
It’s a little bit sombre and retrospective. Conversations about that go to landfill each year. “This, for me, is beautiful.” She
the environmental impact of everything we do – from using also pointed out the compostable packaging – “24 weeks versus
takeaway coffee cups to the polyester fabrics that shed 500 years” – used to wrap the stock: “I’m showing you this
thousands of microplastic fibres every time we do the washing because there are people who talk about things and then there’s
– are inescapable. So are the statistics: Britain consumes clothes the doing. We are the doing and not so much of the talking.”
at the fastest rate in Europe; and, by 2030, global apparel Next up, at London Fashion Week, Phoebe English, re-
consumption is projected to have risen by 63 per cent – the energised by a two-season hiatus from the show schedule,
equivalent of more than 500 billion additional T-shirts. The unveiled her presentation: Attempts at Sustainability Solutions.
good news? An increased focus on the environment is changing She set out ideas for reducing and upcycling her eponymous
the way many fashion designers are making and showing their brand’s waste; shared her material research (smashing through
collections – not to mention the way consumers are shopping. the secrecy that has traditionally stopped designers spreading
Carbon emissions were the big talking point at the s/s 2020 best practice); provided the email address of her ocean-waste
shows. In New York, in September, Gabriela Hearst kicked plastic suppliers, Econyl; and the details for her certified organic
off the discussion when she declared her show carbon neutral, cotton. They could also join the WhatsApp group she started,
offsetting the emissions resulting from the catwalk Fashion on Earth, which helps designers and educators share
presentation with EcoAct. A few days later, she was in London their thoughts and resources. The group currently has more
for the opening of her Norman Foster-designed flagship than 119 members, including sustainable designer Richard
store on Conduit Street (the fashion world doesn’t yet have Malone; Cat Teatum and Rob Jones of Teatum Jones; the
Thunberg’s zero tolerance for air miles). Rather than showing upcycler Matthew Needham; Martina Spetlova, who is using
me the luxurious cashmere knits made by a women’s co- blockchain technology to track supply chains; representatives
operative in her native Uruguay, or the lovely variations of from Katharine Hamnett and Extinction Rebellion Fashion
tone in the chrome-free, vegetable-tanned leather on the Action; Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution,
shop floor, she ushered me into the basement storage cupboard the campaign that asks #whomademyclothes; and Nina
to present me with the recycled cardboard hangers she had Marenzi, founder of The Sustainable Angle, whose fabric
developed as part of her company’s pledge to go plastic-free. expo at the end of January has become a must-see > 157

151
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HARDY PERENNIAL:
HITS FROM PREVIOUS
GIVENCHY COLLECTIONS
INCLUDE 2019’S DELICATE
FLORALS MIXED WITH
A 2018 KHAKI TRENCH.
OPPOSITE: ARCHIVE
SLEEVELESS TRENCH
COAT AND SILK SHIRT. BOTH
GIVENCHY. COTTON HAT,
FROM £150, LOLA HATS,
AT MYTHERESA.COM.
HOW TO DO THE NEW
PREP? WITH MIUCCIA
PRADA’S S/S ’18 TROMPE
L’OEIL COAT WORN WITH
THIS SEASON’S STRIPES
AND CABLE KNIT.
THIS PAGE: SLEEVELESS
COTTON SWEATER, £1,575.
COTTON SHIRT, £735.
ARCHIVE COTTON COAT,
SHORTS AND STUDDED
LEATHER SLINGBACKS.
ALL PRADA

153
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ALL WRAPPED UP:

AUTUMN’S DIOR CAPE AND
A SHARP-COLLARED S/S ’18
SHIRT LEND LAID-BACK
CHARM TO THE FRESHEST
IDEAS IN DENIM.
OPPOSITE: WOOL CAPE
JACKET, £2,350. DENIM
JEANS, £1,350. ARCHIVE
COTTON SHIRT. ALL DIOR.
CANVAS HI-TOPS, £490,
ALEXANDER McQUEEN.
IN 1984, KATHARINE
HAMNETT’S “58% DON’T
WANT PERSHING” T-SHIRT
CAUGHT THE ATTENTION
OF MARGARET THATCHER.
NOW, THIS COTTON COAT
FROM HAMNETT’S NEW
PERISHING COLLECTION IS
MAKING A STATEMENT OUT
OF DEADSTOCK FABRIC.
THIS PAGE: UPCYCLED
ORGANIC COTTON TRENCH
COAT, £1,200, KATHARINE
HAMNETT & DR NOKI NHS.
ARCHIVE SLOGAN T-SHIRT,
KATHARINE HAMNETT.
BLACK WOOL TUXEDO SUIT,
£2,000. COTTON SHIRT,
£260. BOTH GIORGIO
ARMANI. TRAINERS,
FROM £435, OFF-WHITE
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CHANEL’S S/S ’19 WHITE

SHIRT IS UTTERLY
FUTUREPROOF –
ESPECIALLY WHEN GIVEN
A NONCHALANT SPIN WITH
INVIGORATING KHAKIS.
THIS PAGE: COATED
COTTON TRENCH COAT,
£5,626. COATED COTTON
CULOTTES, £2,610. LEATHER
BOOTS, £1,220. CHAIN BELT,
£870. ARCHIVE COTTON
SHIRT. ALL CHANEL.
SURPLUS MATERIALS
FROM THE GUCCI ATELIER
GET AN ELEGANT REVAMP
IN THIS JACQUARD CAPE,
PAIRED WITH DURAN
LANTINK’S INGENIOUS
HYBRID SHIRTDRESS: A
MIX OF SWATCHES FROM
VALENTINO, JIL SANDER,
GIORGIO ARMANI AND
KLAVERS VAN ENGELEN.
OPPOSITE: UPCYCLED
JACQUARD CAPE COAT,
TO ORDER, GUCCI.
UPCYCLED SHIRTDRESS,
£1,650, DURAN LANTINK.
FRINGED LEATHER MULES,
£595, BALENCIAGA.
COTTON HAT, £210, MIU MIU
 UPLOADED BY "What's News" vk.com/wsnws TELEGRAM: t.me/whatsnws

for brands or designers serious about finding renewable An archival approach is increasingly important – whether
materials. Graeme Raeburn (brother of Christopher) also in our own wardrobes or as a way for brands to keep their
suggested building a communal fabric-shopping list so that clothes in circulation longer (and perhaps to keep them from
they could pool resources and split up minimum quotas on being resold elsewhere). The Stockholm- and London-based
orders – a pertinent issue for many independent designers brand Bite Studios is experimenting with building up its
trying to source more sustainable fabrics in small quantities. own archive online, where customers can return pieces once
This is a group that is committed to changing the way they they have finished with them so that they can be resold.
work, as well as creating entire new systems for producing, Creative director Elliot Atkinson is excited about the
selling and re-circulating clothes and raw materials. possibilities of making fashion an investment over time. “It’s
In Milan, Gucci announced it was to become entirely working out how to do it so it accrues value, to make an
carbon neutral, offsetting any emissions that it is currently archive and redesign it by naturally dyeing and over-dyeing
unable to reduce or eliminate by partnering with Redd+; a it, or painting artworks on top of it to add value to the pieces.
UN project to reduce emissions from deforestation in Peru,
Kenya, Indonesia and Cambodia. “The more time that goes
by, the more reports from the scientists are clear – the planet
has gone too far,” Marco Bizzarri, Gucci’s chief executive, told
The Guardian. The LVMH group swiftly followed suit in Paris,
drawing attention to its environmental charter and commitment
to ensure full traceability of its raw materials by 2025, plus
the €10 million it has pledged to safeguard the Amazon.
Other designers spoke of the need to simplify. Miuccia Prada
sent a signal that the culture of disposability – which finds its
currency in fleeting trends – is over, and declared: “Personal
style is more important than clothes.” Her catwalk was filled
with wearable wardrobe classics: embroidered pencil skirts, pretty
evening dresses, sharply tailored jackets. Even Prada’s famous
nylon bags are going green: by 2021, the Re-Nylon project
aims to convert all virgin nylon to regenerated nylon. Brands
such as Chanel noted that its elaborate show sets would be
recycled, and Louis Vuitton’s stripped-back pine set was
sourced from sustainably managed pine forests in France, and
later donated for reuse as part of a partnership with ArtStock,
a company that recycles props, sets and stage equipment.
With major social, cultural and consumer shifts come seismic
changes in business models. High time, too: according to the
Waste and Resources Action Programme there is a whopping
£30 billion worth of unworn clothing hanging in British
wardrobes. We are being urged to stop buying so much, to
look into our wardrobes and make use of what is already
there, rather than constantly shopping for something new.
Vogue is cognisant of the shift. When researching the looks
for this shoot, contributing fashion director Kate Phelan mixed
pieces from old collections with those from the latest resort
shows. There are some unforgettable blasts from the past, such
as Katharine Hamnett’s “Pershing” T-shirt – which she wore
to take on then-prime minister Margaret Thatcher in 1984.
There are also hints at what’s to come, thanks to Amsterdam-
based designer Duran Lantink, who finds designer pieces on
resale sites before cutting them up and collaging them back
together to make something new. “We are looking at the
longevity of what designers make and sell,” says Phelan. “They
don’t have to start from scratch every time they make a
collection. I still have clothes from years ago that I mix in with
more recent looks – an old Chanel jacket that can stand the
test of time, say. Things you never get bored of.” (Even Taylor It becomes something else and evolves. Each piece has
Swift is in vintage Chanel on this month’s cover.) handcraft applied to it in some way.”
While this is, of course, a reflection of how many of us The traditional bricks-and-mortar department stores are
already dress, it also highlights a hugely disruptive new kid reacting to this shift, too. Selfridges opened a Depop space
on the retail block: luxury fashion resale sites such as Vestiaire last September, as part of a push to encourage resale, and
Collective, Hardly Ever Worn It, Farfetch’s Second Life and 24-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate Patrick
The RealReal. “I don’t think people are as squeamish about McDowell ran an upcycling workshop on the shop floor. “It
buying second-hand as they used to be,” Phelan says. definitely feels like the old and the new guard in some ways,”
“Shopping somewhere like Vestiaire is a different experience he says, as part of the new wave of environmentally conscious
than rooting through the rails in a vintage clothes store.” The designers who are embedding sustainable thinking into their
season to which those pieces “belong” is fast becoming brand DNA. “We are lucky because we are small enough to
irrelevant. “Good clothes do hold their value,” she insists. change with new developments as they happen.” > 192

157
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IT’S TIME TO TAKE

A STAND: COSY CASUALS
FROM MARC JACOBS’S
S/S ’18 AND A/W ’19
COLLECTIONS ARE CLEAR
WARDROBE WINNERS
FOR A NEW DECADE.
THIS PAGE: WOOL CAPE,
£2,445. ARCHIVE COTTON
SHIRT, WOOL CULOTTES
AND WOOL CARDIGAN. ALL
MARC JACOBS. JEWELLED
SATIN SLINGBACKS,
£675, SERGIO ROSSI.
THIS OLD THING? LOUIS
VUITTON’S A/W ’14 JUMPSUIT
SUBSCRIBES TO THE “GOOD
CLOTHES NEVER DATE”
PHILOSOPHY, ENERGISED
WITH OF-THE-MOMENT
COLOURED LEATHER.
OPPOSITE: LEATHER
JACKET, £4,950. PRINTED
SHIRT, £1,800. LEATHER
BOOTS, £1,250. ARCHIVE
TWO-TONE JUMPSUIT. ALL
LOUIS VUITTON. COTTON
HAT, FROM £150, LOLA
HATS, AT MYTHERESA.COM

158
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EXTRAORDINARY
CRAFTWORK NEVER
FAILS TO DELIGHT:
VALENTINO’S SUMPTUOUS
SEQUINS AND DRAMATIC
FRINGING FROM SEASONS
PAST MAKE FOR THE
ULTIMATE CONVERSATION
ICEBREAKER.
THIS PAGE: FRINGED
CASHMERE TOP, £4,200.
ARCHIVE SEQUINED
TROUSERS AND TRENCH
CAPE. ALL VALENTINO.
LEATHER SLIDES, £725,
BOTTEGA VENETA.
MIU MIU’S UPBEAT
RETRO MOOD TRANSCENDS
DECADES: THIS S/S ’16
COAT WAS A PRIZED
INVESTMENT. IT
NOW MAKES FOR
A PEPPY PAIRING
WITH CITY SHORTS.
OPPOSITE: COTTON
BLOUSE, £860. COTTON
SHORTS, £665. COTTON
HAT, £210. ARCHIVE COAT
WITH LEATHER TRIM.
ALL MIU MIU

160
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SEASONED SEDUCTRESSES
WILL KNOW SAINT LAURENT
ALWAYS DELIVERS. CASE IN
POINT: AN S/S ’17 LEATHER
BUSTIER, STUNNINGLY
REIMAGINED WITH SLICK
SATIN TROUSERS.
OPPOSITE: TRENCH COAT,
£1,860. SATIN TROUSERS,
£670. ARCHIVE LEATHER
TOP. ALL SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO.
FRINGED LEATHER MULES,
£595, BALENCIAGA.
STELLA McCARTNEY WROTE
THE BOOK ON SUSTAINABLE
FASHION – AND HER
ALPHABET KNITWEAR
WORKS WONDERS
WITH S/S ’19 TIE-DYE.
THIS PAGE: COTTON
TRENCH COAT, £1,270.
SWEATER, £975. ARCHIVE
TIE-DYE TOP AND
TROUSERS. ALL STELLA
McCARTNEY. SOCK
BOOTS, £725, BALENCIAGA.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION.
HAIR: MALCOLM EDWARDS.
MAKE-UP: LUCIA PIERONI.
NAILS: ANATOLE RAINEY.
SET DESIGN: JABEZ
BARTLETT. PRODUCTION:
NORTH SIX. DIGITAL
ARTWORK: GLOSS.
MODELS: VITTORIA
CERETTI, FRAN SUMMERS
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BRIGHT
YOUNG
THINGSVOGUE INTRODUCES AN
ELECTRIC CAST OF FACES
SET TO DEFINE THE DECADE
AHEAD. PHOTOGRAPHS BY
SCOTT TRINDLE. STYLING
BY PATRICK MACKIE

F
lappers, jazz, cigarette holders, champagne, sleek
movie stars with onyx-black bobs: think of the 1920s
and, almost certainly, it’s a variation on this montage
that will swim through your mind – a decade
distilled into a silent showreel of Great Gatsby-esque imagery.
Who hasn’t, since the turn of the millennium, anticipated
the time when we get to once again refer to living in the
’20s, hopeful that all the glamour, style and rebellious spirit
of a hundred years ago will be true for us, too?
Perhaps it will. If the 1920s were marked by a more
disinhibited society, suffrage for women, the rise of celebrity
and advancements in technology, then the 2020s will certainly
have a similar ring to them. But, as we approach the new
decade, we mirror the past in other ways as well. The political
upheaval that has dominated the past three years on both
sides of the Atlantic, and the patent rise in nationalism, is
more than reminiscent of the wave of populism that spread
through Europe and America after the First World War. As
then, we live in a moment characterised on one side by the
positive feeling that anything is possible, on the other, by a
deep sense of foreboding. As Edith Wharton wrote in her
journal in 1926: “Life is always either a tightrope or a feather
bed. Give me the tightrope.”
Who, though, will be our new Wharton? Or Chaplin?
Or Garbo? On the following pages, we have brought
together a generation of young people, all of whom, Vogue
believes, will come to define the next decade, and its
prevailing mood, by dint of the work they produce. Take
the novelists exploring the darker side of the female
experience, for example, or the actors who have found fame
through frank depictions of sexuality. Hollywood is still
producing pin ups, but more than ever we are choosing our
own heroes, from every walk of life. >

164
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PATSY FERRAN,
HIMESH PATEL
& HONOR
SWINTON BYRNE
Actors
For this trio of Brits, success
comes with responsibilities.
“Stories that have been neglected
are coming through the cracks,”
says Patsy Ferran, 30,
theatreland’s new superstar – who
last year won an Olivier Award
for Summer and Smoke, and will
next be seen in Who’s Afraid of
Virginia Woolf? on Broadway.
Himesh Patel, 29 – tight-lipped
about his role in the new
Christopher Nolan film, Tenet –
agrees. “It’s been really great to do
such a breadth of stuff,” he says,
having filmed two period pieces
back-to-back (The Aeronauts
and the BBC’s The Luminaries).
“I was worried that I wouldn’t get
to do that in my career, but the
landscape’s changing.” Meanwhile,
Honor Swinton Byrne’s first
lead role – in The Souvenir, last
summer’s indie-cinema hit – had
critics swooning, not least because
it was almost entirely unscripted.
“I had no idea what to expect,”
says the 22-year-old. “I think
it was good that I didn’t.”
FROM LEFT: PATSY WEARS SHIRT,
£1,300. TROUSERS WITH BRACES,
£1,750. BOTH GIORGIO ARMANI.
HIMESH WEARS JACKET, £1,155.
T-SHIRT, £380. TROUSERS, £515.
ALL STELLA McCARTNEY. HONOR
WEARS JACKET, £2,090. BELTED
TROUSERS, £980. BOTH FENDI.
NECKLACE, HONOR’S OWN.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA. MAKE-UP:
LAURA DOMINIQUE. NAILS:
MICHELLE HUMPHREY
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JIA TOLENTINO
Writer
When her debut collection
of essays, Trick Mirror,
was published last summer,
The New Yorker staff writer
Jia Tolentino, 31, went
from queen of the viral,
millennial must-read,
to garnering comparisons
to legendary essayist
Joan Didion, for her
astute ruminations on
contemporary life and
culture. If she could give her
younger self a piece of
advice, what would it be?
“That everything she
thought was risky was
the right thing to do.”
JACKET, £1,880. SHIRT,
£820. SHORTS, £820.
BELT, £440. ALL MIU MIU.
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MAKE-UP: MAUD LACEPPE.
NAILS: JIN SOON CHOI
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OYINKAN
BRAITHWAITE
Writer
In 2019, Londoners
couldn’t navigate the
capital without spotting
a copy of Oyinkan
Braithwaite’s darkly
funny debut, My Sister,
the Serial Killer. Reversing
the plot on the typical
slasher story by shifting
a woman from victim to
murderer, Braithwaite,
31, who grew up in Nigeria
and Britain, proved there’s
a hearty appetite for
morally ambiguous female
protagonists, and threw
down the gauntlet for a
new type of literary thriller.
What drives this author?
“The desire to do better than
I did yesterday,” she says.
SLEEVELESS JACKET,
£895. BLOUSE, £695.
BOTH AMANDA WAKELEY.
ROLLNECK, £247, MARINA
RINALDI BY ROKSANDA.
EARRINGS, OYINKAN’S OWN.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA.
MAKE-UP: LAURA
DOMINIQUE

SOPHIE
MACKINTOSH
Writer
“I want to be doing work
that makes a change,”
says the British novelist
Sophie Mackintosh,
31, whose 2018 Booker-
longlisted debut, The
Water Cure, helped lead the
current wave of dystopian,
feminist fiction filling our
bookshelves. This summer,
she’s compounding the
theme with her novel Blue
Ticket, in which a lottery
forces women’s pregnancy
decisions. Expect it to top
every reading list – and
to start impassioned
conversations.
JACKET, £2,630. TOP,
£1,150. POLONECK,
£665. NECKLACE,
£1,190. ALL GUCCI.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA.
MAKE-UP: LAURA
DOMINIQUE

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MICHAEL WARD & NCUTI GATWA

Actors
“I want to see more kids realising there’s opportunities out there,”
says Michael Ward, 22, the breakout star of the most recent series of
Top Boy – the Hackney-set, crime-saga blockbuster – of his reasons for
becoming an actor. His Netflix stablemate Ncuti Gatwa – the 27-year-old
Scottish-Rwandan performer who plays scene-stealing gay teen Eric in
Sex Education – is also inspiring young viewers. “We’re having amazing
conversations at the moment about inclusivity, diversity and equality,”
he says. “Conversations that have needed to happen for a long time.”
FROM LEFT: MICHAEL WEARS COAT, £2,910. SWEATER, £750.
SHIRT, £435. TROUSERS, £1,060. SHOES, £785. ALL GUCCI. SOCKS,
£11, FALKE. NCUTI WEARS JACKET, £995. TROUSERS, £250. HI-TOPS,
£250. ALL COACH 1941. POLONECK, £155, JOHN SMEDLEY.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA. MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE.
NAILS: MICHELLE HUMPHREY
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LITTLE SIMZ
Musician
Even before Little Simz had
released her debut album, in 2015,
the north London rapper and
singer had music-world giants for
fans (among them Kendrick Lamar)
thanks to her fast-paced mixtapes.
Three albums later, the 25-year-old
is the Mercury Prize-shortlisted
artist on the cusp of superstardom
in her own right, with enviable
side-pursuits – including a recurring
role on Netflix’s Top Boy. The best
thing about the new decade? “There
are no limitations on where your
creativity can stretch to,” she says.
SHIRT, £1,250. TROUSERS,
£1,900. BOOTS, £820. JEWELLERY,
PRICE ON REQUEST. ALL DIOR.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA. MAKE-UP:
LAURA DOMINIQUE. NAILS:
MICHELLE HUMPHREY

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JACOB ELORDI
Actor
The current name on every casting director’s lips is
Jacob Elordi, a 22-year-old, 6ft 3in Australian. He may be
channelling the perfect heart-throb – with a Calvin Klein
underwear campaign and more than 6 million Instagram
followers as proof – but as Nate Jacobs in Euphoria, HBO’s
X-rated high-school smash, he dared to go dark, playing a
manipulative star quarterback defined by toxic masculinity
and issues with his sexuality. “I get to wake up in the
morning and do exactly what I want to do,” he says of his
burgeoning career. It’s a bold and exciting start.
JACKET, £1,600. SHIRT, £795. SCARF, £235.
TROUSERS, £795. ALL DOLCE & GABBANA.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA. MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE

AMMY DRAMMEH, MISCHA NOTCUTT,

CAMPBELL ADDY, CYNDIA HARVEY,
RHEA DILLON & GARETH WRIGHTON
Creatives
A generation ago, putting the freshest fashion creatives together
in a room might have required arm-twisting and resulted in
eye-rolling. But when Vogue united make-up artist Ammy, 34,
stylist Mischa, 35, photographer Campbell, 26, hairstylist Cyndia,
32, visual artist Rhea, 23, and fashion designer Gareth, 26, for
a portrait, it was just another day at the office for the frequent
collaborators. The group – known for their shared ethos of
collectivism, as well as prolific editorial, catwalk and commercial
output – is at the heart of London’s thriving creative scene.
“People always get a bit surprised that we’re actually friends,”
says Campbell, of an industry that has been known to pit its
rising stars against one another. “What makes us different,”
says Ammy, “is that we don’t compete. We inspire each other,
we encourage each other and we lift each other up.”
FROM LEFT: AMMY WEARS JACKET, £1,250. TROUSERS, £315.
BOTH ESCADA. SHOES, £560, MANOLO BLAHNIK. MISCHA
WEARS JACKET, £1,100. TROUSERS, £590. BOTH GIORGIO ARMANI.
SHOES, £495, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. EARRINGS, MISCHA’S OWN.
CAMPBELL WEARS SHIRT, £365, JIL SANDER. TROUSERS AND
JEWELLERY, CAMPBELL’S OWN. CYNDIA WEARS JACKET, £1,650.
SHIRT, £410. TROUSERS, £510. ALL DIOR. RHEA WEARS TOP, £600,
JIL SANDER. TROUSERS, £1,525, DSQUARED2. SHOES, £690, FENDI.
EARRINGS, RHEA’S OWN. GARETH WEARS SWEATER AND TROUSERS,
TO ORDER, GARETH WRIGHTON. BOOTS, GARETH’S OWN.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA. MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE.
NAILS: MICHELLE HUMPHREY
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LEWIS BLISSETT
& SOPHIE
Musicians
“Music should be
mind-blowing in every way
imaginable,” says Scottish
music-maker Sophie Xeon –
better known by just her
first name. Having already
produced hits for everyone
from Madonna to Kim Petras,
and similarly mesmerised
the fashion world with her
performance at Louis Vuitton’s
s/s 2020 catwalk show,
the 33-year-old is poised to
dominate. Meanwhile, Lewis
Blissett, 15, who became a star
vlogging from his Swindon
bathroom, is making Ariana
Grande-approved electro pop
that is ratcheting up streams.
“I definitely want to be a role
model for young people,”
he says, assuredly. “I’m ready
now, so why wait?”
FROM LEFT: LEWIS
WEARS JACKET, FROM £955.
WINDBREAKER, FROM £1,120.
SHIRT, FROM £345. TROUSERS,
FROM £510. BELT, FROM £350.
ALL GIVENCHY. JEWELLERY,
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COAT, FROM £4,275. DRESS,
FROM £1,095. BOTH VERSACE.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA.
MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE.
NAILS: MICHELLE HUMPHREY

EMMA MACKEY
Actor
“Take the work seriously,
but not yourself. That’s my
whole mantra,” says Emma
Mackey, the 23-year-old
English-French actor who
achieved overnight fame – and
Instagram stardom – playing
a brilliantly deadpan teenager
in Sex Education. Ahead of
a second series of the show –
already among the most-
watched on Netflix for its
authentic discussion of modern
sex – Mackey is advocating
more representation on screen.
“We’re heading towards
something really good,” she says.
COAT, £2,530. SWEATER,
£995. SHIRT, £225.
ALL MICHAEL KORS
COLLECTION. WATCH, PRICE
ON REQUEST, CARTIER.
HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA.
MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE
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ZAZIE BEETZ
Actor
If her turn in television’s
award-winning Atlanta
put 28-year-old German-
American Zazie Beetz on
the map, her performance
opposite Joaquin Phoenix
in Joker – the most divisive
box-office smash of the
past year – cemented
her place among the new
generation of Hollywood
establishment. “In the next
decade, I hope we continue
to embrace empathy,”
says Beetz. “I think it’s
important to try to avoid
staying in the binary –
in the good and the bad
– and to live in the grey.”
COAT, £1,441. TROUSERS,
£382. BOTH DIANE
VON FURSTENBERG.
LOAFERS, £558, CHLOE.
HAIR: BRAYDON NELSON.
MAKE-UP: MAUD LACEPPE.
NAILS: JIN SOON CHOI
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INDYA MOORE
Actor
For native New Yorker
Indya Moore, 24, starring
in Ryan Murphy’s TV
show Pose – which sets
an LGBTQ community,
struggling for respect,
within the sizzle of the
Big Apple’s 1980s gender-
nonconforming ballroom
culture – meant joining a
cast that includes more
trans actors than any
programme in television
history. And Moore,
whose captivating screen
presence suggests decades
of brilliant work ahead,
is determined to keep
fighting off-screen for the
rights of trans women,
too, so that they are “no
longer being murdered
and kicked out of their
homes, and having their
human rights debated”.
CARDIGAN, £1,200.
BELTED SKIRT, £2,200.
BOOTS, £1,350. ALL
LOUIS VUITTON.
HAIR: BRAYDON NELSON.
MAKE-UP: MAUD LACEPPE.
NAILS: JIN SOON CHOI

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JADE FADOJUTIMI AMY HUNT

Artist Sprinter
Just a few years on from One Sunday last July,
her Royal College of Art degree 17-year-old Amy Hunt
show, London’s most-in-demand sprinted into the history books
young painter, Jadé Fadojutimi, when she became the fastest
is already on the must-have list under-18 woman in the world
of art collectors around the world. over 200m. “In the world, ever,”
Expect the 26-year-old to repeat her she clarifies for Vogue. It’s a
previous sell-out shows in Paris and jaw-dropping achievement that
London this May, when she exhibits puts the A-Level student from
her large-scale, colourful abstract Nottingham on a parallel
canvases – praised for their energy with Usain Bolt. Although the
and dynamism – at Pippy Houldsworth lure of Tokyo 2020 is strong,
Gallery in Mayfair. Despite her Hunt is choosing to focus on
runaway success, the artist doesn’t her studies. “They’re also my
pretend to have all the answers. priority,” she says with a smile,
“It’s OK not to know things that you touching the tiny lightning
think you should know,” she says. bolt stud in her ear.
COAT, £2,350. JACKET, £2,700. SWEATER, £420. DRESS,
SKIRT, £1,230. ALL MISSONI. SHOES, £510. BELT BAG, £360.
£740, MIU MIU. HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA. CAP, £240. ALL SPORTMAX.
MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE. HAIR: NAOKI KOMIYA.
NAILS: MICHELLE HUMPHREY MAKE-UP: LAURA DOMINIQUE
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AUSTIN BUTLER
Actor
When director Baz Luhrmann selected Austin Butler – a snake-hipped
former child actor, who had a memorably creepy turn in last summer’s Once
Upon a Time in Hollywood – to play the King in his upcoming Elvis Presley
biopic, Butler’s superstar-in-waiting status was set. On top of dyeing his
naturally blond hair black, it seems we can expect a thoughtful take on Elvis
from the 28-year-old Californian. “It’s important to cultivate patience and
perseverance,” he tells Vogue. “You can truly tune into your own intuition.”
JACKET, £4,360. SHIRT, £650. TROUSERS, £1,220. BOOTS, £1,390.
ALL TOM FORD. SOCKS, £11, FALKE. RING, AUSTIN’S OWN.
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BEANIE FELDSTEIN
Actor
With her comically sublime
performances in Lady Bird
and Booksmart, Beanie
Feldstein has been central to
the re-imagining of the
female coming-of-age movie
for a new generation.
Next up, the Los Angeleno
will play Monica Lewinsky
in Impeachment: American
Crime Story – a role that
will undoubtedly send
her career stratospheric.
“They either want the Bean
or they don’t want the
Bean, that’s my life motto,”
says the 26-year-old.
“People will take you or
leave you, and that’s
entirely up to them.
But you just continue
down your path.”
DRESS, £696. EARRINGS,
£85. BOTH KATE
SPADE NEW YORK.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION.
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NEW YORK PRODUCTION:
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ARTWORK, THROUGHOUT:
IMGN STUDIO. WITH
THANKS TO SUNBEAM
STUDIOS, LONDON
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“I wanted it to look like a military boat,” says Giorgio Armani, seen here – dressed in
his signature navy top and trousers – aboard Maín. “I fear chaos and unruliness. Structure
allows me to move freely and productively, because I can monitor everything.”
Sittings editor: Gianluca Longo
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PLAIN
SAILING
Shortly before he set out for his 85th birthday party in
Saint-Tropez, Giorgio Armani offered Anders Christian
Madsen a rare glimpse into his private world, aboard
his superyacht. Photographs by Danilo Scarpati

F
rom the flybridge of Maín, I can see Giorgio Soon, Maín will take Armani to Saint-Tropez and
Armani and his navy-clad entourage zigzagging Pantelleria, where two of the nine houses he has tailored for
their way down Portofino’s narrow quay, one himself are situated. “I don’t like other people’s homes and
picture request at a time. On a July day, just I don’t like hotels, so there’s no other option,” he says,
before his 85th birthday, the designer has speaking through an interpreter. “I want this boat for the
been chauffeured from Milan to the Italian rest of my life, or for what remains of it.” Armani isn’t
Riviera, where his superyacht awaits him. Last night, she oblivious to the passage of time. He is far too controlling of
glided into the marina in all her army-green starkness, his surroundings for that kind of denial. “Time flies,” he
casting a formidable shadow over our Aperol spritz-dotted reflects, contemplating his birthday. “Especially in my line
café tables like a solar eclipse. Now, she’s moored in the of work. It takes you fully, so it always seems you’re about
tiny tourist paradise, bigger than any hillside palazzo or to leave for somewhere.” For years, the industry has wondered
nearby vessel – a constant gaggle of gobsmacked onlookers just what will happen to his company – of which he remains
anchored at her stern. the sole shareholder – the day the living embodiment of
“I wanted it to look like a military boat,” Armani admits, Giorgio Armani is no more. Speculation has pointed to Leo
now embarked and enthroned on a sizeable greige sofa on Dell’Orco, his right-hand man and close friend, who joins
DIGITAL ARTWORK: IMMA GORGA

the lower deck of the boat that he has owned since 2008. Giorgio on the yacht along with Roberta Armani, his niece
Every corner of his self-made empire is run with utmost and brand ambassador; or perhaps Stefano Pilati, who worked
discipline, earning him astronomical wealth as a result. With for him in the 1990s and went on to become head of design
his stint in the army during the 1950s, working at the Verona at Yves Saint Laurent? “I think Stefano is extremely skilled
military hospital, it’s easy to imagine where a tendency for and a designer with an elegant touch. He is not in my
precision and control might stem from. “I fear chaos and succession plan, though,” Armani counters.
unruliness,” he says. “Structure allows me to move freely “I don’t want to name names and play this game. Rest assured
and productively, because I can monitor everything.” that the succession plan is prepared in a fair manner.” >

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“YOU MUST
HAVE A VISION
IF YOU ARE
GOING TO DO
ANYTHING
MEANINGFUL:
A VISION YOU
BELIEVE IN
AND EXPRESS
CONSISTENTLY”

It’s said that Armani

bought his 200ft
superyacht to outdo
Valentino’s 150ft vessel.
“I want this boat for the
rest of my life,” says
Giorgio. And who
wouldn’t? It is more
luxurious and carefully
considered than most
homes on dry land
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Invincibly poker-faced, Mr Armani – as he is addressed – may pose a paradox to that idea but in the age of climate
maintains an impressive balance between intimidating and change and sustainability, Armani’s approach is as practical
charming. He elaborates that a foundation has been established as ever. Small steps include recycling seats and fixtures from
“consistent with the principles that are particularly important his shows, reusing the same dresses for Cate Blanchett on
to me and that have always inspired my work”. At this month’s the red carpet, and famously checking if his employees
Fashion Awards in London, Armani will receive the turn off the lights before leaving the office. On a much
Outstanding Achievement Award in recognition of his almost bigger level, Armani recently signed the Fashion Pact, a
half-century of impact in the industry – since founding his G7 initiative to increase environmental protection in the
empire in 1975, alongside his late partner Sergio Galeotti. industry. And, above all, his work is rooted in an anti-
Following Karl Lagerfeld’s death last February, Armani is disposable philosophy of timelessness.
the oldest working designer in the business; some might think “Water? Coffee?” he offers as we sit down. “Vodka?” He
without equal, but not he. “Authors with a strong vision and used to drink a shot before each show, but since surviving a
an unremitting voice are those I admire and consider my peers: serious liver condition a decade ago, he isn’t only teetotal but
John Galliano, Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Jean Paul Gaultier, vegetarian, too. These days, he only indulges a sweet tooth,
Vivienne Westwood,” he offers. “I like designers who stick although his guests are encouraged to frequent the bar on
to their guns, no matter the vogues du moment. I love designers the lower deck. Despite his regal tendencies, Armani clearly
who work on shapes and silhouettes rather than decoration.” loves company. And yet, since the death of Galeotti, he hasn’t
Maín was the affectionate nickname of Armani’s beloved disclosed details of any romances. The couple never had
mother, Maria, when she was little, and her other pet name, children. Not surprisingly, Armani’s bedroom occupies the
Mariù, graced his previous yacht. Rumour has it he replaced biggest cabin on the yacht, but every facility within it is intended
it with Maín when Valentino Garavani acquired a boat for one. Decorated in custom Armani Casa furniture, >
longer than his. (Maín comes in at just more than 200ft,
Valentino’s at some 150ft.) The competitive grandeur of
fashion’s icons has become the stuff of legend, but their
generation shares values perhaps less fundamental to a new
guard of designers. “I respected Karl and admired his work.
I was saddened by his passing. Karl had a vision, and today
his is a priceless example,” Armani says. “You must have a
vision if you are going to do anything meaningful – a vision
you believe in and express consistently.”
You can’t fault Armani for sticking to those beliefs. His
shows are primarily presented in the famed Armani Teatro,
his Milanese runway room. If they relocate (recent destinations
include Milan’s Linate airport, the Tokyo National Museum
and Paris’s Petit Palais) the layout always remains: Italian
monumental modernism morphed with Japanese wabi-sabi,
a style that is reflected in every store, hotel, home and, indeed,
yacht. “Natural, sophisticated, timeless,” as he defines it.
“Everything I do stems from a great passion combined
with an almost maniacal attention to detail,” he admits. “My
vision of style is crystal clear and perfectly formed, and is
reflected in everything that bears my name.” He still oversees
each of his 11 seasonal collections, foregoes show stylists in
favour of his own finishing touch, and sticks to a unique
cast of models. In Armani’s world, everything stays within
the same frames. So much so, that a cheeky new generation
of show-goers used to joke that his spotlit bows on the in-
house runway were in fact holograms. On second thought,
of course, he is too much of a perfectionist to risk it.
At sea, his personal routine remains intact: breakfast at 7am,
followed by personal training, evenings spent playing cards
or in front of the television. He loved Chernobyl and The
Crown, disliked Money Heist, and didn’t do Game of Thrones
(isn’t into fantasy). Like anyone, he enjoys a trip to the beach.
On her voyages, Maín drops anchor off the coast from
uncrowded beaches, where crew members will erect a mise-
en-scène of deck chair, parasol and cooling bag filled with
fruit and water. Armani arrives by chaloupe at 10am and leaves
at noon, in time to change for lunch back on the yacht.
The designer’s love of nature is reflected in his show
notes, which often muse on the elements. “We all have
to do our duty to save the planet,” he told me backstage at
September’s Giorgio Armani show, titled Earth. “The
industry needs to take measures.” His summer on the yacht

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Ma’n is manned by a crew of 14, uniformed in navy Bermuda Without authenticity, in fact, everything fails,” Armani argues,
shorts and beige polo shirts embellished with her logo. echoing a mantra attributed to those young generations.
Armani’s favourites seem to be Fabrizio and Simone, who “Millennials have been commodified. I do not like the way
could be George Clooney’s stunt doubles. Dress codes are the system talks about them, but I acknowledge the power
obligatory for all passengers. Rings are prohibited as they of the new generations,” he says. “I look at them, for sure,
scratch the finishes. Shoes are strictly forbidden, although and I try to interact, but the generational gap is enormous. I
the black slippers I “borrowed” from the Armani Hotel in am fine with this. What I propose to young customers stems
Milan a few nights before pass his inspection. from a personal observation of their very fascinating world.”
The design of the hotel’s sci-fi, mechanical metal shutters Does Giorgio Armani use the internet? “Yes, to read the
was inspired by the yacht’s. Armani’s eyes are intolerant to news and to send emails. Still, I prefer a written note and
strong sunlight, a fact borne out by the crew’s constant a printed paper.” Would he ever set up a personal Instagram
flipping of shutters or rigging of black net blinds as he moves profile? “I have a very reserved character, and I’ve always
around the decks in his signature navy top and trouser combo, protected my private life. Besides, I don’t want to be influenced
shoeless, in just a pair of white socks that sport his imperial by influencers!” Is he concerned about the lynch mob mentality
Emporio Armani eagle. “I have developed a pragmatic that comes with social media? “I think this watchdog culture
uniform that makes me look and feel like a dedicated fashion has gone too far, honestly. We need to be very careful and
worker,” he explains. In his ateliers, interns are expected to consider everything, of course, but public shaming is the
adapt. Armani’s devotion to structure and procedure paints opposite of progress, and I am more interested in that than
a stark contrast to the contemporary idea of creative freedom. anything else.” What about the broader political climate?
But he never pandered to zeitgeists. When, in 2017, I asked “This is not the best historic moment. We are living in very
his thoughts on Demna Gvasalia’s new take on the broad- divisive times. As a child of another era, I have always had a
shouldered boardroom feminism Armani pioneered in the firm belief in advancement, but the current moment is possibly
1980s, he said that “women don’t need that in order to be proving me wrong.” When you’re the king of your own castle,
credible anymore”. But are octogenarian magnate designers however, who cares about populist politicians.
really that unaffected by waves of relevance? “Relevance is As darkness falls, the yacht drifts out of Portofino like
a quality that others give to you. One cannot self-crown a samurai in the night, a lonely giant among dwarfs. Armani
himself relevant,” Armani retorts. “This said, judging from has a Saint-Tropez birthday party to get to. He is the last of
the sales, yes, I still am.” the unicorns, but for all his structures and self-imposed
He is utterly compelling, irresistibly sure of himself and solitude at the top, he tells me he is happy. “I am. But I am
ALESSANDRO VIERO/GORUNWAY

timelessly handsome. When, at his haute couture show last never fully satisfied with myself, so I think I could have done
Above: looks from January, I complimented the iceberg-sized diamond pin that more.” Taking in the unfathomable grandeur of the world
Armani Privé a/w ’19 pierced the buttonhole of his midnight-blue velvet tuxedo, he has created for himself, I wonder if he ever longs for a
– the collection was
presented in Paris at
he smiled cheekily and told me it wasn’t the biggest one in more conventional life, a companion, even children? “Just
the Petit Palais. his collection. It’s the kind of fabulousness that can transcend sometimes. Then again, if I look at what I have built, I see
Opposite: the yacht’s questions of relevance, even to the millennial eyes now all- it is a lot,” Armani says. “I don’t really suffer regret, as it is
blinds inspired the
shutters of Milan’s important in fashion. “Authenticity is and will always be a fairly pointless feeling. However, if I were to relive my life,
Armani Hotel relevant, not least because it is becoming rarer and rarer. I’d spend more time with my loved ones.” n

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THE DAY’S NEWSPAPERS,

AN EXTRA-HOT LATTE,
A VALENTINO HANDBAG
AND LORO PIANA BOOTS:
WORKWEAR ACCESSORIES
HAVE NEVER WORKED HARDER.
THIS PAGE: DRESS, FROM
£2,220, PROENZA SCHOULER.
BOOTS, £1,750, LORO PIANA.
BAG, £2,190, VALENTINO
GARAVANI. MALACHITE
AND DIAMOND RING, £2,680.
ONYX AND DIAMOND RING,
£2,410. BOTH LOUIS VUITTON
FINE JEWELLERY.
COMMUTER BELT: CINCH
THE WAIST AND REACQUAINT
YOURSELF WITH MAROON
AND MOCHA, THIS SEASON’S
IDEAL OFFICE COMPANIONS.
OPPOSITE: FROM LEFT,
PALOMA WEARS SHIRTDRESS,
£447, BOUGUESSA. BELT,
FROM £305, MAISON
VAINCOURT. BOOTS, £1,155,
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO.
BAG, £1,700, LOEWE. GOLD,
MOTHER-OF-PEARL AND
DIAMOND EARRINGS, £6,350.
GOLD AND DIAMOND RING,
£5,000. BOTH LOUIS VUITTON
FINE JEWELLERY. LUNA
WEARS COAT, £3,500, DIOR.
BELT, £420, SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO. SHIRT, £274,
BOUGUESSA. POLONECK,
£235, PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND.
TROUSERS, £570. BAG, £1,675.
BOTH BOTTEGA VENETA.
BOOTS, £510, WANDLER,
AT MYTHERESA.COM. GOLD
AND DIAMOND EARRINGS,
PRICE ON REQUEST, GRIMA.
VINTAGE BRACELET, £225,
SUSAN CAPLAN. RINGS, FROM
£795 EACH, ALEX MONROE
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Work
up
DIDN’T GET THE MEMO? IT’S TIME TO FAMILIARISE YOURSELF
WITH THE SOFTER SIDE OF POWER DRESSING – ELEVATED
ELEGANCE THAT’S AS SUCCESSFUL AS YOU ARE.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT EASTON. STYLING BY DENA GIANNINI

185
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WORN UNDER BRUNELLO

CUCINELLI’S LUXE
OUTERWEAR, OR PAIRED
WITH CHLOE’S ORNATELY
EMBELLISHED BLOUSE,
STONEWASHED DENIMS
SUDDENLY MEAN BUSINESS.
WATCH STOCKS RISE.
THIS PAGE: FROM LEFT,
HYUNJI WEARS EMBELLISHED
BLOUSE, £1,550. LEATHER
BAG, £1,430. BOTH CHLOE.
JEANS, £205, RE/DONE.
MEGHAN WEARS LEATHER
COAT, £7,630, BRUNELLO
CUCINELLI. DENIM JACKET,
£390, WARDROBE NYC
& LEVI’S, AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM. LEATHER
BAG, £1,645, SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO. TENNIS
BRACELETS, TOP AND
BOTTOM, FROM £100
EACH, CZ BY KENNETH JAY
LANE. TENNIS BRACELET,
MIDDLE, £129, SWAROVSKI.
HEDI SLIMANE’S REVIVAL
OF 1970s BOURGEOIS
AESTHETICS APPEARS
SUITABLY MODERN
WHEN WORN WITH A
CONTEMPORARY ATTITUDE.
OPPOSITE: PINSTRIPE
JACKET, £1,950. FLARED
TROUSERS, £650. CANVAS
AND LEATHER BAG, £1,950.
BELT, FROM A SELECTION.
ALL CELINE BY HEDI
SLIMANE. NECKLACE,
£3,425, BOTTEGA VENETA
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187
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188
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EVEN PIGEONS
STRUGGLE TO DAMPEN
THE INNATE ELEGANCE
OF TIMELESS ALAIA.
OPPOSITE: FELT COAT,
£1,200, ALBERTA FERRETTI.
COTTON SHIRT, FROM
£1,120. GABARDINE
TROUSERS, FROM £835.
LEATHER BELT, FROM £480.
SUEDE BOOTS, FROM £830.
ALL ALAIA. EARRINGS,
£3,900, TIFFANY.
THE ROW’S PRISTINE
LEATHER TAILORING
SHOWCASES SHARP
MINIMALISM AT ITS BEST.
THIS PAGE: LEATHER COAT,
£5,820, THE ROW. CROPPED
SWEATER, £200. WOOL
TROUSERS, £250. BOTH
LONGCHAMP. SHIRT,
£540, DEVEAUX, AT
NET-A-PORTER.COM.
LEATHER BOOTS, £430,
DORATEYMUR
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ASIDE FROM A LUNCH

BREAK SPENT WITH KAREN
AND JOAN, NOTHING IS
LIKELY TO MAKE YOU
HAPPIER DURING OFFICE
HOURS THAN BOTTEGA
VENETA AND MAX MARA’S
MUTED NEUTRALS.
OPPOSITE: FROM LEFT,
KAREN WEARS TRENCH
COAT, £1,900. JUMPSUIT,
£1,480. BOTH BOTTEGA
VENETA. CANVAS AND
LEATHER BAG, £1,630,
SAINT LAURENT BY
ANTHONY VACCARELLO.
JOAN WEARS COAT, £3,260.
JACKET, £1,005. SHIRT,
£395. POLONECK, £310.
TROUSERS, SHORTENED
BY STYLIST, £510. ALL
MAX MARA. BOOTS, £1,750,
LORO PIANA. LEATHER
BAG, £9,850, HERMES.
EARRINGS, FROM £460,
VALUE CHAIN BY BYREDO
& CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS.
WHEN PAIRED WITH
KNEE-HIGH BOOTS (AND
AN HERMES HANDBAG),
CULOTTES HAVE A NEWLY
ELEVATED IMPACT.
THIS PAGE: SILK JACKET,
FROM £1,730. SATIN
BLOUSE, FROM £690. BOTH
GIVENCHY. CULOTTES WITH
KEYCHAIN DETAIL, £1,060,
ERMANNO SCERVINO.
BOOTS, £1,470, SAINT
LAURENT BY ANTHONY
VACCARELLO. BAG, £8,450,
HERMES. SUNGLASSES,
LUNA’S OWN. RINGS, AS
BEFORE. WATCH, PRICE ON
REQUEST, TAG HEUER.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION.
HAIR: PANOS PAPANDRIANOS.
MAKE-UP: ERIN PARSONS.
NAILS: LOLLY KOON.
PRODUCTION: HONOR
HELLON PRODUCTION.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: DTOUCH
LDN. MODELS: LUNA BIJL,
PALOMA ELSESSER, KAREN
ELSON, TAYLOR HILL,
MEGHAN ROCHE, HYUNJI
SHIN, JOAN SMALLS.
WITH THANKS TO
NOIR PRODUCTIONS

191
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VOGUE INFORMATION < 157 WASTE NOT

The merchandise featured editorially has been ordered from the following stores. McDowell’s collections are made using
PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST Some shops may carry a selection only. Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to
press, but we cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that specific items will be in stock when the deadstock and salvaged material that might
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
Roger Lynch magazine is published. We suggest that before visiting a shop you phone to make sure it has your size. otherwise end up in landfill, and given a heavy
In case of difficulty, contact Vogue’s Merchandise Department (020 7499 9080).
Chief Operating Officer Where unspecified, stockists are in London or general enquiry numbers are given. dusting of rejected Swarovski crystals. “My profits
& President, International are now linked to how sustainable I am, and
Wolfgang Blau
Global Chief Revenue Officer 16 Arlington & Noel Equipmentfr.com Marina Rinaldi by people come to me because of that. I’ve set myself
& President, US Revenue Stewart Noelstewart.com Erdem.com Roksanda 020 7629 4454
Pamela Drucker Mann A Ermanno Scervino Marni 020 7491 9966 up to potentially fail as a brand if I sell-out. That’s
US Artistic Director and
Global Content Advisor Academycostumes.co.uk 020 7235 0558 Max Mara 020 7499 7902 a good situation to have locked yourself into.”
Anna Wintour Adidas.co.uk Escada 020 7245 9800 Michael Kors Collection But designers such as McDowell need a whole
Chief of Staff Samantha Morgan Alaïa 020 3057 7905 Essentiel-antwerp.com 020 7907 9222
Chief Data Officer Karthic Bala Alberta Ferretti Etro 020 7493 9004 Michaelstars.com new ecosystem if they are to thrive. At Selfridges,
Chief Client Officer Jamie Jouning
020 7235 2349 F Missoni 020 7823 1910 sustainability consultant Alex McIntosh is well
CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT Alessandrarich.com Falke.com Miu Miu 020 7409 0900
President Oren Katzeff Alexander McQueen Fendi 020 7927 4172 Moschino 020 7318 0555 placed to smooth the way for all sorts of new
020 7355 0088 Frame-store.com Motherdenim.com business models. Not only does he give a
Executive Vice President– Alexmonroe.com G MSGM 020 7584 6837
Alternative Programming platform to the burgeoning resale market
Joe LaBracio Alighieri.co.uk Galacolivetdennison.com Mulberry 020 7491 3900
Executive Vice President– Amanda Wakeley Garethwrighton.com N (a pop-up with Vestiaire Collective opened in
CNÉ Studios Al Edgington 020 3691 2982 Gerard Darel No 21 Numeroventuno.com
Executive Vice President– Annilu.dk 020 7495 6905 O October), he also trains the store’s buyers to ask
General Manager of Operations
Kathryn Friedrich Ara Vartanian Ghbass-eu.com Off---white.com the right questions of brands and designers to
020 7493 4751 Giambattistavalli.com Oscar de la Renta ensure that they meet certain ethical standards.
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Atsukokudo.com Gianvitorossi.com 020 7493 0422
Jonathan Newhouse Aureliebidermann.com Gina 020 7499 7539 Outdoorresearch.com All while working with the irregular production
WORLDWIDE EDITIONS B Gina Couture P cycles and slight variations on product that
France: AD, AD Collector, Glamour, Balenciaga 020 7317 4400 020 7235 2932 Pacorabanne.com
GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue The Beardmore Collection Giorgio Armani Piers Atkinson upcycled and deadstock materials can bring. “It’s
Collections, Vogue Hommes 020 7351 5444 020 7235 6232 [email protected]
Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, the most exciting time right now,” says McIntosh
GQ Style, Vogue
Bitestudios.com Givenchy 020 7199 2919 Prada 020 7647 5000
India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Boss.com Giuseppe Zanotti Pringlescotland.com – who also heads up the University of the Arts
GQ, Vogue Bottega Veneta 020 7734 8827 Proenzaschouler.com London’s Fashion Futures MA at the London
Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, 020 7629 5598 Goossens-paris.com R
Experienceis, Glamour, GQ, La Cucina Bouguessa.com Grimajewellery.com Ralph Lauren Collection College of Fashion. “I feel like a lot of stuff I’ve
Italiana, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired
Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Brunello Cucinelli Gucci 020 7629 2716 020 7535 4600 been working on in an academic context is
Vogue Girl, Vogue Wedding, Wired 020 7287 4347 H Re/done Shopredone.com
Mexico and Latin America: Bulgari 020 7872 9969 Harrods 020 7730 1234 Richardquinn.london starting to be heard in the business context.”
AD Mexico, Glamour Mexico, GQ Burberry.com Hermès 020 7499 8856 Rochas.com For Matchesfashion.com, a new generation
Mexico and Latin America, Vogue
Mexico and Latin America C Horror-vacui.com Rosettagetty.com of brands is making some of the most interesting
Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain, Cartier 020 7408 9192 I The Row 020 7099 9090
Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Ceciliebahnsen.com Ireneneuwirth.com S clothes – the debut collection of Ssone, the latest
Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Niños, Celiakritharioti.com J Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vogue Novias buzzy sustainable label, is stocked exclusively
Taiwan: GQ, Interculture, Vogue
Celine by Hedi Slimane Jemmawynne.com Vaccarello 020 7235 6706
United Kingdom: London: HQ, 020 7491 8200 Jessicamccormack.com Salvatore Ferragamo with them. Caroline Smithson, Ssone’s founder
Condé Nast College of Fashion Chanel 020 7493 5040 Jilsander.com 020 7629 5007 and creative director, says she enjoys spending
and Design, Vogue Business; Chanel Fine Jewellery Jimmychoo.com Scott-nichol.com
Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, 020 7499 0005 Jwanderson.com Selfridges.com time going down rabbit holes in search of
Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ,
GQ Style, House & Garden, LOVE, Charlottechesnais.fr K Sergiorossi.com botanically dyed wool, say, or potato sacks with
Tatler, The World of Interiors, Vanity CH Carolina Herrera Katharine Hamnett Sportmax.com
Fair, Vogue, Wired 020 3441 0965 & Dr Noki NHS Ssone.com which to package up her orders. While her brand
United States: Allure, Architectural Chloé 0800 123 4001 Katharinehamnett.com Stellaluna.co is new, Smithson has more than 20 years’
Digest, Ars Technica, basically, Bon
Appétit, Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, Chopard 020 7046 7808 Kate Spade New York Stellamccartney.com experience working everywhere from Levi’s to
epicurious, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Christianlouboutin.com 020 7287 1581 Susancaplan.co.uk
healthyish, HIVE, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Christopher Kane Khaite.com Sussycazalet.co.uk Louis Vuitton. She knows how wasteful the
Vogue, them., The New Yorker, The 020 7493 3111 Kitristudio.com Swarovski.com
Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired industry is; how polluting it can be; how
Coach 1941 020 7734 8472 L T
PUBLISHED UNDER Corneliajames.com Les-ottomans.com Tiffany 0800 160 1837 disconnected the creative teams can be from
JOINT VENTURE Czbykennethjaylane.com Levi.com Tillysveaas.co.uk their own supply chains, the provenance of their
Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, D Linksoflondon.com Tom Ford 020 3141 7800
GQ, Vogue Derek Lam 10 Crosby Lizziefortunato.com V materials, the people who make the clothes. And
Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style
Book, GQ, GQ Style, Tatler, Vogue Dereklam.com Loefflerrandall.com Valentino 020 7647 2520 it is precisely this experience that has shaped
Deveauxnewyork.com Loewe.com Valentino Garavani
PUBLISHED UNDER LICENSE OR Diane von Furstenberg Longchamp.com 020 7647 2520 her first solo venture, and made her rethink every
COPYRIGHT COOPERATION Dvf.com Loro Piana 020 7499 9300 Value Chain by Byredo last detail. Swing tags are made using a by-
Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living
Bulgaria: Glamour Dior 020 7172 0172 Louisvuitton.com & Charlotte Chesnais product of the beer industry; cotton denims are
China: AD, Condé Nast Center Dinosaurdesigns.co.uk Louis Vuitton Fine Byredo.com
of Fashion & Design, Condé Nast Dolce & Gabbana Jewellery 020 7998 6286 Van Cleef & Arpels organic and recycled; the beautifully crisp hemp
Traveler, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue, 020 7495 9250 M 020 7493 0400
Vogue Film, Vogue Me is spun and woven in Italy (requiring a third of
Czech Republic and Slovakia:
Dorateymur.com Maisonmargiela.com Venyxworld.com
La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Dsquared2 020 7734 3492 Maisonvaincourt.com Versace 020 7259 5700 the water used in cotton production); zips are
Germany: GQ Bar Berlin Duran Lantink Maje 020 7734 3447 Vhernier.com made from recycled polyester. “It’s a hell of a lot
Greece: Vogue [email protected] Manolo Blahnik Victoriabeckham.com
Hong Kong: Vogue E 020 3793 6794 W of research,” she says, “everything is considered.”
Hungary: Glamour
Iceland: Glamour Elhanati.com Marcjacobs.com Wempe 020 7493 2299 Ultimately she is designing for other women
Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue Ellery.com Margaret Howell Wingweftgloves.com
Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Emporio Armani 020 7009 9009 Thewolseley.com who share her world-view. “What I buy in a
GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired 020 7491 8080 Marialarosa.it Woolrich.eu year, I could count on one hand,” Smithson says
Poland: Glamour, Vogue
Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto – and that includes one or two pieces of vintage.
Romania: Glamour Vogue is published monthly by the proprietors, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square,
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South Africa: Glamour, Glamour Hair, £80; rest of world, £119. USA: $129 (USPS/ISSN 463390). Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Air The fashion industry needs to adapt to this
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0414 789 297
www.qiihouselorne.com.au
www.luxurycozumel.com [email protected]

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Beautifully located luxury villas on the Algarve

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A charming and elegant hotel near

Piazza del Campo
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www.palazzoravizza.it
[email protected] θ̧̡̧̢̣̟̟̣̣̠̠ ĆĢùĩϝʼnłĆŅĆőłěÁĢőĔĩŖŅĢäűʼn͠Úĩġ
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B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y

THE PLACE
TO CELEBRATE
Be the perfect host: Rosemary Brooke throws open the doors of
homes built with entertaining in mind

CENTRE POINT, WC1

This icon of Brutalist architecture has been
transformed and updated by some of London’s
leading design studios. There’s a 24-hour concierge,
excellent security, and residents can swim in the
30-metre swimming pool. From £1.88 million.
Knight Frank: 020 3411 4683 to host a party at home – instead, somewhere London’s original skyscrapers, Centre Point is
central is ideal when your calendar is full of after- famed for its panoramic views – there’s no need
work engagements. The aptly named Centre to turn on the television to see the New Year’s
fireworks when you can just look out of your

A
s December gets underway, so Point has been a West End landmark since it
does the party season. If you’re the was built in the 1960s. It’s undergone a major window, although it’s unlikely that you’ll be
sociable sort, it’s worth taking this refurbishment in the last few years – behind the staying in when there are so many diversions on
into account when you’re buying a Brutalist façade, the interiors and communal your doorstep.
new property – having the right home can make spaces have been dramatically transformed by In the countryside, however, you’re more likely
entertaining a joy, whether it’s a city pad or a a collection of designers, including Conran + to host a party than hit the town, and having the
country pile. Partners. The facilities are akin to a luxury hotel right home can make all the rence. ‘The
In London, with such an abundance of and include a spa – perfect for recovering from best houses for parties are typically ones with
restaurants, bars and clubs, there’s less pressure the after e cts of the night before. As one of intercommunicating rooms,’ says Simon Rose,
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SILVERDALE,
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
As a Huf Haus, Silverdale
has a wonderful, light-filled
interior and is very eco-
friendly, while the soaring,
triple-height entertaining
space creates a natural area
for guests to congregate.
Located near Gerrards
Cross, it’s well placed for
Heathrow and Gatwick
airports, as well as London.
£3.6 million.
Hamptons International:
01753 415264

SETON CASTLE, EAST LOTHIAN

This 18th-century castle has been hosting
MAIN IMAGE: James Burns, @Londonfromtherooftops

parties for hundreds of years.

Conveniently close to Edinburgh, the
atmospheric Georgian building has been
carefully restored, inside and out, and is
surrounded by 13.4 acres of parkland and
grazing. Offers over £8 million.
Savills: 0131 247 3738

SYDENHURST,
SURREY
Occupying a rural spot near
the village of Chiddingfold,
this modern mansion has 10
bedrooms, staff accommodation
and 30 acres of land. With an
imposing Georgian-style façade
and a beautiful parkland setting,
Sydenhurst has been built with
large-scale entertaining in mind.
£30 million.
Knight Frank: 020 7861 1065
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FAIRMILE COURT HOUSE,

SURREY
This imposing country house
in Cobham is currently divided
into two, but is available as a
whole. Spanning almost 13,000
square feet, it has 14 bedrooms,
so there’s no shortage of guest
accommodation. Transport links
to London are excellent – both
by road and by rail. £7.5 million.
Sotheby’s International Realty:
01932 860537

CHELSEA BARRACKS,
SW1 founder of the estate agency Rose & Partners.
The townhouses at the much- ‘This creates a natural flow, allowing people to
anticipated Chelsea Barracks move about and mingle easily.’
development are designed for
parties, with plenty of spaces for One such property is the spectacular
entertaining, both in their private Sydenhurst in Surrey. Recently built in the
gardens or on their rooftop Palladian style, it features a huge entrance
terraces. The artisan finishes – hall, with the dining room, family kitchen and
such as the stone fireplaces, oak
floors and exterior ironwork – drawing room all opening it. Interconnecting
create truly memorable spaces. doors help to encourage movement between
From £38 million. rooms, while at over 26,000 square feet, the
Chelsea Barracks: 020 7801 3081 sheer size of the property facilitates entertaining
on a grand scale – something that the previous

POND HOUSE, WEST

SUSSEX
Occupying a tranquil spot, this
five-bedroom barn conversion
is perfect if you’re seeking a
rural lifestyle that’s not too far
from London. There are regular
trains to Victoria from
Pulborough and Horsham,
making it an easy journey for
city friends to pop down for a
weekend in the country.
£1.55 million.
Strutt & Parker: 01403 246790
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owners clearly planned for, given the 2,000-bottle

wine cellar. Visitors won’t get bored – there’s
an indoor and an outdoor swimming pool, a
cinema and even a bowling alley. There’s also
ample scope for alfresco entertaining with the
covered outdoor dining area and firepit, making
it a perfect venue for get-togethers, no matter
what the weather.
For a truly memorable setting, it’s hard to
beat a romantic Scottish castle, complete with
turrets, arched windows and secret staircases.
Seton Castle is located a mere 12 miles from
Edinburgh, and with a local train station two
miles from the door, it’s that rarest of finds – a
CROSSRIGG HALL, CUMBRIA
Scottish estate accessible by public transport. This Grade II* listed country house dates from the mid 19th century. Formerly used as a
That said, there’s also a helipad, ring the wedding venue, it has many outbuildings that offer the potential for hosting parties as a
opportunity to streamline airport transfers or commercial venture. The house has 21 bedrooms and sits on approximately 17 acres.
£2.75 million. Finest Properties: 01539 468400
expeditions to the Highlands.
Its history will enchant all who come to stay
– the property was designed by the celebrated
18th-century architect Robert Adam using stone TRECARRELL,
CORNWALL
from Seton Palace, which used to stand on the This newbuild home is an ode
site and was Mary Queen of Scots’ favourite to contemporary architecture,
retreat. Now fully restored, the castle’s recent located above the idyllic St
additions include a billiard room, a cinema and Just Creek near St Mawes. The
panoramic coastal views can be
even a traditional bar. There are seven bedrooms admired from the kitchen and
in the castle itself and several separate cottages, living areas – the
allowing for plenty of visitors. spacious proportions make it
With such glorious surroundings, the only an excellent venue for a seaside
gathering. POA.
danger is that your guests may never want to Lillicrap Chilcott: 01872 273473
leave - and who could blame them?

KEEPERS,
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Overlooking Gatcombe
Water, this six-bedroom
property near
Minchinhampton dates
from the 1830s and has
its own boat house.
The long lake-side terrace
is an atmospheric spot
for entertaining, as is the
drawing room with its
gothic arched windows.
£2.85 million.
Humberts: 01285 650955
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KILLOCHAN CASTLE
SCOTLAND UNITED KINGDOM

ONE OF THE FINEST FORTIFIED HOUSES IN SOUTH SCOTLAND

A CLASS A LISTED HISTORIC SCOTTISH CASTLE

FIRST BUILT IN 1338 LOCATED IN SOUTH AYRSHIRE
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Killochan Castle is set on the estate which covers 131 acres of land, with Prestwick Aviation
Services: 30 miles
inviting forests, a beautiful river fed by smaller streams, and landscaped
Glasgow Airport: 61 miles
gardens. The castle has been fully renovated and restored. The castle In the vicinity of Trump
has full rights for fishing and shooting. Turnberry Hotel
The Main Castle: 3 Kitchens including one old kitchen | 12-13 Bedrooms and Golf Resort
2 Dining rooms plus a breakfast room | 9 Bathrooms/WCs | 2 Laundry rooms
Wine cellar | Plenty of storage space | Also attached to the castle are stables, garages,
storage rooms and 2 WCs for visitors.
FOR SALE
Gate House: Just in front of the castle, also a listed building | Beautifully decorated with 4
bedrooms | 3 Bathrooms/WCs | Large kitchen | Laundry room | Storage room and garage. PRICE UPON APPLICATION
Killochan Cottage: 5 minutes walking distance from the castle | Beautifully decorated
3 Bedrooms | 3 Bathrooms/WCs | Saloon | Dining room | Kitchen | Garden | Storage CONTACT
Garage and parking space. Tarek +44 7778 968 117 | [email protected]
Bridge Cottage: 10 minutes walking distance from the castle overlooking the river Camilla +44 7914 688 983 | [email protected]
4 Bedrooms | 2 Bathrooms/WCs | Kitchen | Saloon | Dining room | Car park and garage. Office Contact [email protected]
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REGENT’S PARK LONDON NW1

SET WITHIN THE COLUMNS OF CHESTER TERRACE, THIS CLASSICAL RESIDENCE HAS BEEN REDESIGNED AND
REFURBISHED IN RECENT YEARS AND HAS EXCEPTIONAL UNINTERRUPTED VIEWS OVER REGENT’S PARK

The house offers family accommodation within a

classical town house, with the added benefit of
a passenger lift which accesses all floors.

ACCOMMODATION
■ Entrance hall ■ Dining room
■ Kitchen/breakfast room
■ Guest cloakroom ■ First floor drawing room
■ Master bedroom suite with dressing room
and en-suite bathroom ■ Four further bedrooms
■ Two further bathrooms ■ Media/family room
■ Staff bedroom suite with additional kitchen
■ Garage accessed via the rear of the property

Chester Terrace is a quiet private road, set back from

the Outer Circle. The terrace is fronted by a 300
metre communal garden and is served by private
residents’ security.

JOINT SOLE AGENTS

£12,500,000
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Elegant Townhouse in the heart GUIDE PRICE

£10,950,000

of Knightsbridge FREEHOLD

Knightsbridge, SW7 EPC RATING

C
• Totally Refurbished and Interior Designed • Roof Terrace & Patio Courtyard CONTACT
• 3 Reception Rooms • Directly on Montpellier Square KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE
+44 (0)20 7225 6509
• 6 Double Bedrooms • Approx 4,247sq ft / 395 sqm [email protected]

H A R R O D S E S TAT E S . C O M

Visit the new Harrods Estates website

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B R I TA I N | P R O P E R T Y

NOTEBOOK
A monthly look at the latest property news,
at home and abroad
BY ROSEMARY BROOKE

A PRIME PIECE OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA

Set on the Mediterranean coast between Santa Margherita and Portofino, this
heavenly Italian villa has five bedrooms, a guest cottage, and an outdoor pool.
The main house has self-contained staff accommodation, and there are spectacular sea
views from the two large terraces. Unusually for a holiday villa, this property is set on a
large plot of about 1.25 acres – the mature gardens include exotic plants,
soaring trees, and even a vegetable garden.
For more information, visit www.aylesford.com

A MATTER OF RECORD
Create a lasting record of your favourite place with a
bespoke coffee-table book from My Schlos Your Castle,
the brainchild of Amanda Mann (pictured). They take
professional photographs of your home, and turn them into
a beautifully produced book. Whether for yourself or bought
RETIRE IN STYLE as a gift, it’ll conjure up memories of a much-loved house for
A new development on the years to come. For more information, visit www.myschlos.com
Dorset coastline aims to
bring contemporary luxury
to retirement housing.
Set in wooded hills above
the town of Poole, the
apartments range from one
to three bedrooms, with
glass balconies and floor-
to-ceiling windows creating
airy, light-filled spaces that
look out over the harbour
and Brownsea Island. With
STEEPED IN HISTORY
excellent on-site facilities
Few homeowners can say that the Magna Carta was signed in their
and support, Vista offers
grounds, unless you’re a resident of Magna Carta Park, a new private
a thoroughly modern estate in the heart of Surrey. The 59 houses and apartments draw
take on retirement living. inspiration from classic British architectural styles, and are surrounded by
Apartments from £600,000. 57 acres of ancient woodland and landscaped gardens. Transport links are
For more information, excellent – there’s a regular train service from Egham to Waterloo, while
visit www.platinumskies.co.uk it’s a mere 12 minutes by car to Heathrow airport. Due to complete in
June 2020; prices from £1.495 million.
For more information, contact www.knightfrank.com and www.savills.com
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GAINSBOROUGH GARDENS
HAMPSTEAD VILLAGE, NW3

“An idyllic heathside house”

A beautiful, semi-detached family home is situated on what some

consider to be the most coveted address in Hampstead Village.
This house was built by E J May, a Norman Shaw pupil in 1883 around
the pleasure garden of Hampstead’s first Spa which, was popular with
fashionable Londoners who visited to take the chalybeate waters and
socialise there having balls and concerts throughout the season.

TERMS

Guide Price: On Application

Tenure: Freehold

Sole Selling Agents

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CONDENASTJOHANSENS.COM
LAS ISLAS, COLOMBIA
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ELM TREE ROAD

ST JOHN’S WOOD
NW8

A BEAUTIF UL COUNTRY STYLE HOUSE IN THE HEART OF ST. JOHN’S WOOD

An exceptional five bedroom house hidden behind a private and Freehold • £10,800,000
unique setting, accessed via a secure-gated pathway. Elegantly
designed to a high standard, the house boasts grand period
For more information please contact Joint Sole Agents:
features throughout, large open plan receptions rooms, ideal
for entertaining and benefits from a beautifully landscaped
and mature garden and terrace. Elm Tree Road is conveniently
located just moments from the boutique shops, restaurants and
cafés of St John’s Wood High Street and Regent’s Park.
St John’s Wood Sales St John’s Wood Sales
3 Reception Rooms • 5 Bedrooms • 3 Bathrooms • Large [email protected] [email protected]
Kitchen/Breakfast • Large South Facing Garden • Double Garage +44 (0)20 7722 9793 +44 (0)20 7586 1000
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Riverside Wandsworth
APARTMENTS WITH REMARKABLE VIEWS

Stunning new one and two bedroom

riverside apartments, with striking views
east to Chelsea and west to Putney. Private
health and wellness amenities, gardens,
car and cycle parking and Thames Clipper
pier attached. The final building in this
well-established community and a rare
opportunity on the banks of the Thames.

Recently completed two and three bedroom

apartments available now with prices from
£755,000.

The final building is due for completion in 2020.

To register or enquire please visit:

RIVERSIDEQUARTER.COM
020 8877 2000
Sales Gallery open Tuesday–Saturday
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VOGUE ASKS

Above: the Smiths,

clockwise from left,
Trey, Will, Willow,
Jada and Jaden at
the Nickelodeon Kids’
Choice Awards in
2005. Right: Jaden
and Jada at the
MTV Movie & TV
Awards in 2019
What do you look
for in fabulous
jewellery? “Less
is more for me
because I’m so
petite.” Earrings,
£3,975, Tiffany

Does Willow
raid your closet?
“She stole some
Balmain shoes I
bought for myself
when she did the
Aladdin red carpet.”

What would Jada

What’s your
everyday beauty
secret? “Tatcha
Luminous Dewy

Pinkett Smith do?

Skin Masks
[£18] – you just
want your skin to
be dewy.”

Advice on love, life and fashion from the actor,

Red Table Talk host and Smith family matriarch
Tracksuit
Shirtdress, What do you wear to feel confident? You’re at a friend’s house and an argument
bottoms,
£755, Rosetta
£43, Adidas Adidas striped sweatpants with a heel, a black breaks out. What do you do?
Getty
COMPILED BY TIMOTHY HARRISON. DON FLOOD/

leather biker jacket and some dope diamond If you’re not going to find a solution, walk away.
hoop earrings. The most comfortable swag. How should I dress for a first date?
How do you overcome stage fright? My first date with Will, I was in sweatpants.
AUGUST; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ

Check your ego. How do you stop negative comments

You film your web series, Red Table Talk, with from getting to you? It’s more a reflection
What was your your daughter and mother in your living room. of them than it is of me.
last fashion buy?
“A Rosetta Getty How can I avoid distractions working from home? What’s the best thing your kids taught you?
shirtdress, its In all honesty, it’s best not to work at home. Allowing people to be who they are.
colour keeps me
happy all day.”
What’s your son Jaden’s best quality? When did Will last make you laugh?
His complete, utter need to show up for me. He had on these weird checked trousers, and
He’ll say, “Mom, I’m flying in to go to the I was like, “You’re going out in those?” He went
MTV Awards with you.” off on me for 45 minutes – it had me rolling! n
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