Rescue 3 Europe CWRH Manual v1.1 en Online
Rescue 3 Europe CWRH Manual v1.1 en Online
Copyright 2014
Rescue 3 International, Inc.
All rights reserved
No part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, or utilised in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or
other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information
storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.
Contributing authors: Jon Gorman, Matt McLay, Chris Onions, Paul O’Sullivan
Adapted and compiled from the following Rescue 3 International copyrighted material.
< Technical Rope Rescue: Technician™ Level Manual > < Dutch Rope Rescue Operator >
Safety notice
This Rescue 3 Europe manual is a basic text to be used in conjunction with Rescue 3 classes
taught by instructors certified by Rescue 3. Utilisation of this material without certified
instruction may be hazardous to life and limb.
Scope of manual
This manual is designed as an accompanying reference for those undertaking Rescue 3 training within
Europe. It is not a standalone document and does not replace training by a qualified instructor.
These notes are designed to provide initial pre-course reading, and to act as post-training revision.
Without post-training practice and experience, students will be unable to develop the necessary levels of
skill and judgement to allow them to operate effectively.
In addition to the specific techniques and knowledge provided whilst training at this level, those working in
and around confined spaces need to possess the underpinning knowledge and operational techniques for a
confined space environment.
Contents
About Rescue 3 Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Progressing within Rescue 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rescue 3 contact details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
General information
Rescue 3 philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rope safety and rescue training standards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Risk management. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
More than 190,000 water, rope, boat and confined space Rescue 3 courses have been delivered in over 32
countries since 1979, to fire and rescue services, ambulance teams, mountain rescue teams, and commercial
training and leisure activity providers.
Rescue 3 Europe certifies and manages all European Rescue 3 training providers, instructors and students.
Rescue 3 International does the same in the rest of the world.
The flagship Rescue 3 courses are Swiftwater and Flood Rescue Technician (SRT), Rope Rescue Technician
(RRT), Swiftwater and Flood Rescue Boat Operator (SFRBO) and Confined Space Rescue Technician
(CSRT). Rescue 3 also offers supporting courses, offering awareness qualifications, through to advanced
technician and management-level qualifications.
There are over 700 Rescue 3 certified instructors throughout Europe, delivering courses for over 100
Rescue 3 Europe training providers. These are within the European fire and rescue services, mountain
rescue and water rescue teams, and other outdoor professional establishments. Additionally, there are a
number of training centres who offer Rescue 3 courses on a commercial basis in most European countries.
The reputation for quality hands-on instruction, using techniques that work, has fuelled the growth of
Rescue 3 and its courses.
History
Rescue 3 International was started in 1979 by a group of people involved with emergency services, who
identified a need for training in areas not commonly covered in the emergency training programs of the
time.
The name, Rescue 3, was chosen when the company first started, because the instruction was concerned
with all areas of rescue - ground, air, and water - thus Rescue 3.
In 1981, the program was redesigned into an early form of the current Swiftwater Rescue Technician
curriculum. Swiftwater classes were taught throughout California and slowly spread across the United
States.
In late 1990, Rescue 3 became Rescue 3 International Incorporated. Over the course of the next several
years, Rescue 3 International went on to develop instructor teams throughout the United States and over
30 countries worldwide.
In 1999, there was a major revision in the curriculum to meet the requirements of the new NFPA1 1670
Standard on Operations and Training for Technical Search and Rescue Incidents in the areas of water and
rope. This training is available at the awareness, operations and technician levels. Training and testing has
been developed to meet the NFPA 1006 Standard for Rescue Technician Professional Qualifications.
In 2009, Rescue 3 Europe was set up to certify and manage all European training providers, instructors
and students. The years since have been a period of great growth of internationally accredited technical
rescue training within Europe. Rescue 3 Europe are also responsible for the evolution and development of a
number of specialised Rescue 3 courses to meet the ever-increasing demand for internationally recognised
rescue training of the highest standards.
5
Progressing within Rescue 3
Student qualifications
Rescue 3 Europe offers courses in a variety of technical rescue specialities, including water, rope, boat and
confined space. These are delivered at all levels, including awareness, first responder, technician, advanced
technician, and management.
Instructor qualifications
There are Rescue 3 Europe instructor qualifications for every level of student course. These can be for
both commercial course delivery, or for delivery within an agency (eg a fire and rescue service).
Training providers
Instructors delivering Rescue 3 courses must do so for a Rescue 3 training provider. Training providers can
either be commercial, or agency (ie delivering in-house).
There is a simple yet robust application process for becoming a Rescue 3 training provider. For training
provider criteria and application forms, or to discuss the options available, please contact the Rescue 3
Europe office.
Accreditation checks
To check the status or validity of a Rescue 3 training provider, instructor or student, please contact the
Rescue 3 Europe office.
Upon request, Rescue 3 Europe can also provide an organisation with due dates for recertification for their
Rescue 3 qualified staff.
All Rescue 3 student qualifications are valid for a period of 3 years from the end date of the course. To
maintain continuous accreditation, recertification must take place before the end of these 3 years.
Recertification can be at the same level as the initial course. Alternatively, you can add an additional skill-set
by taking a higher level course. For example, you could recertify a Rope Rescue Operator (RRO) course, by
taking a Rope Rescue Technician (RRT) course.
Rescue 3 International
11084A Jeff Brian Lane
PO Box 1050
Wilton
California 95693
USA
7
1 GENERAL
INFORMATION
8
1
SECTION CONTENTS
Rescue 3 philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rope safety and rescue training standards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Risk management.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
OVERVIEW
This chapter focuses on the Rescue 3 philosophy. It discusses what is necessary for a successful
rescue, and priorities during rescues.
Also, there is a strong focus on applicable legislation, as well as CE markings and applicable
standards.
• Training
• Practice
• Experience
• Judgement
For a team to be successful in their actions, they must first undertake a course of instruction to gain
foundation training. In order to become more proficient, they should practise these skills and techniques
further, therefore gaining experience. This may include practice at particular sites that have historically
proved problematical.
As the team become more experienced and practised, they will develop good, sound judgement when
dealing with the variety of situations. This judgement is vital when the team are faced with rescue situations
in challenging conditions. It is their judgement that will be relied upon to make the right decisions on how
(or how not) to proceed with a rescue.
Having gained experience of what works, what has problems, what are the advantages and disadvantages
for various systems, and what the solutions are, the team will have the judgement to be able to choose the
best solution for any situation without wasting time. This judgement cannot be purchased, or fast-tracked;
but is the result of time spent practising and gaining experience in a variety of conditions and applications.
• Self
1
• Team
• Victim
It is vitally important to take responsibility for your own actions. This includes your safety in a hazardous
environment such as a rescue site. Unless correctly trained and equipped, the task could be unachievable
and produce more casualties. Acting on uneducated and misjudged impulses, such as climbing a rescue
site unequipped or untrained to save a person, is highly likely to result in tragedy rather than success. It is
paramount that rescuers do not operate beyond their capability.
The statement above also extends to the team. Individuals have a responsibility to look after their team
members and not place them in danger to a level beyond control. There needs to be backup systems in
place so that team members’ safety is protected, ensuring operations follow safe systems of work. It is
essential that all the team look after their own safety by avoiding undue risks.
Only when rescuers have provided for their own safety, and their team’s safety, can they start to perform
rescues or operate in a vertical environment. Any work or rescue cannot exceed the team’s capability.
Finally, after ensuring the safety of themselves, the team and the casualty, the risks taken for the retrieval of
equipment should be very low – the kit is replaceable, but people are not!
EU directives are binding for all EU member states, but it is down the each member state as to how that is
implemented with legislation at a national level.
The primary objective of the CE mark is the free movement of goods within the European Union.
It indicates that the minimum legal requirements have been met in its manufacture. However, it isn’t an
indication of quality.
Whilst the CE mark doesn’t indicate conformity to a standard, EN numbers do. Each standard specifies the
characteristics, performance requirements and test methods for each piece of equipment. Each standard
has a number - for example, semi-static kernmantle ropes are covered by EN 1891.
The risk assessment should be undertaken prior to performing work at height. Having a written risk
assessment can help meet legal or operational requirements. The risk analysis can also provide key insight
into the risks faced, and how they can be managed.
• Damage to equipment
• Psychological injuries
• Physical injuries
• Death
•
•
•
Falls from height
Falling objects
Use of unsafe equipment
1
• Incorrect use of equipment
• Gas/chemical exposure
• Electrocution
• Increased temperatures when working in confined spaces
• Structural collapse
• Water
• Oxygen deprivation
• Running machinery
• Environmental factors (rain, snow, sun, wind etc)
• Release of steam
• Human error
• Inexperience
• Lack of training
With high risk activities, and activities that aren’t commonly undertaken, additional risk trade-offs may have
to be made. An activity-specific risk assessment should be developed to identify, manage and mitigate the
additional risks to an acceptable level.
Casualty rescue
16
2
SECTION CONTENTS
Personal equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Introduction to technical equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Fall protection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Work restraint. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Fall arrest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Personal skills. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Knots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Anchors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
OVERVIEW
This chapter focuses on different types of equipment used to work safely at height, and their
correct usage.
Personal skills when working at height are also covered step by step. There are also examples of
the most commonly used knots and anchors that you can use when working safely at height.
2
the right choice.
When purchasing PPE (personal protective equipment), key considerations are functionality, comfort and
whether the PPE has multiple applications. If universal PPE can be used, this is clearly an advantage.
• Helmet
• Harness
• Fall arrest line
• Shock absorber
• Karabiners
• Work positioning lanyard (not pictured)
Karabiner
Karabiner
Helmet
Shock absorber
Harness
2
a rescue much safer and more efficient.
• Ropes
• Edge protection
• Karabiners
• Belay devices
• Rope grabs
• Pulleys
• Anchors
• Anchor points (mobile and man-made)
2
construction, and the materials used in its construction.
Rope construction
Some common materials used in modern rope construction and their properties include:
Nylon
• High tensile strength
• High elasticity
• High energy absorption
• High impact resistance
• It will soften at 230C (446F)
• It does not float and can absorb about water, which reduces its strength
Polyester
• High tensile strength
• Low elasticity
• High melting point (249C/480.2F)
• Good abrasion resistance
• No reduction in strength when wet
• Does not float
Polypropylene
• Strength is approximately 50% of nylon or polyester of the same thickness
• It will soften at 165C (329F)
• Floats in water
• Minimal strength reduction when wet
• Polypropylene is not as abrasion resistant as polyethylene
Polyethylene
• About 5% less strength than polypropylene
• About 5% heavier than polypropylene
Aramids eg Kevlar
2
• Resistant to high temperatures
• Very high tensile strength
• Very low stretch (1.5-3% stretch at failure)
• Poor shock absorbing ability
• Does not float
• Increasingly used in winching operations
Most modern ropes for water and rope rescue are kernmantle in construction. This German word means
core (kern) and sheath (mantle).
It is not possible to tell from inspection whether a rope is a dynamic, semi-static, or indeed a specialist
2
water rescue rope, as they can look and feel the same and be the same colour. Proper recording, marking
and logging of rope is required to avoid potentially lethal confusion.
Accessory cord
Low stretch rope is available in a variety of smaller diameters, for use as accessory cords and applications
such as making Prusik loops. Prusik loops are generally either made from 6mm or 8mm cord.
Webbing tape
Most webbing is made from nylon or polyester. Due to its characteristics, it may be preferred over rope
in certain applications. It is cheaper than rope, and due to its wide, flat surface, it is less susceptible to
abrasion1. There are fewer secure knots for use in webbing (normally a tape knot is used). As a result, it is
common to use pre-sewn webbing slings.
1 www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01364.pdf
2
its own identification code, marking and rope log.
The general rule is that ropes should be used for up to a maximum of five years once issued (unless
condition or usage dictates an earlier retirement) Additionally, the rope can be stored for up to five years
before being issued. This means that if a rope is purchased and stored but never issued and used, it should
still be retired and destroyed after ten years.
Rope log
Rope ID:
Diameter:
Length:
Make:
Model:
Colour:
Purchased from:
Purchase date:
Date in service:
Batch number:
Serial number:
Rope protection
Ropes and webbing are highly susceptible to damage when rubbing on edges and rough objects, especially
when under tension. Wherever ropes are at risk of damage, they should be protected. A variety of specially
designed protectors are used, plus more general material such as canvas and salvage sheets. Testing has
suggested that some of the best rope protection performance was achieved with canvas, which was also
one of the cheapest.
Edge protection is a form of rope protection, used specifically on edges. However, work restraint (see page
29) can also sometimes be referred to as edge protection. Those working at height should be aware of
the potential confusion.
2
Karabiners (from left to right) - oval snapgate, oval auto-locking, pear-shaped/HMS screwgate, pear-shaped/HMS auto-locking,
D-shaped auto-locking
Karabiners are metal connectors that are used to clip together ropes, slings, tapes etc. Karabiners come in
many shapes and sizes. They are made from steel or aluminium alloy.
Steel has the advantages of being stronger and cheaper than similar aluminium alloy, but has the
disadvantages of being heavier and prone to rust.
Aluminium alloy karabiners have an excellent strength to weight ratio and are generally used for water
rescue applications. Although they do not rust, they are susceptible to corrosion, especially if exposed to
sea water.
Karabiners are available as either snapgate or locking gate designs. As the name suggests, locking gate
karabiners have a locking mechanism on the opening gate. This makes them safer for use in safety-critical
applications, such as clipping a rope to a quick release chest harness.
There are a number of designs for this locking mechanism, ranging from traditional screwgates through to
more modern twist lock designs. Screwgates require the user to manually lock the gate closed, whereas
twist lock systems will automatically do so.
Belay devices (from left) - Italian hitch (Münter hitch), figure of eight, belay plate, Petzl GriGri, Petzl I’D
Belay devices are used to control the rope under load. There are many variations available.
Whichever method is used to control a rope, it is essential the manufacturer’s instructions are followed.
It’s important to note the difference between belay devices used for rock climbing and similar activities, and
belay devices designed and used as PPE. Local regulations (such as those in the Netherlands and Belgium)
may require that a CE mark for PPE is present. In addition, these regulations may also require that a self-
locking mechanism is present when using a belay device as PPE. Of the devices shown above, only the Petzl
I’D meets both these requirements.
Rope grabs
A rope grab is a device which locks onto the rope, to grip
against a pulling force from one or both directions. This may
be a mechanical device, or a non-mechanical device, such as
a Prusik knot. Prusik knots are less common in an industrial
setting, but are widely used in wilderness rescue and leisure
activities.
Pulleys.Top row (from left) - Petzl Rescue, Petzl Tandem Cable, Petzl Mobile, Petzl Minder
Bottom row (from left) - Rock Exotica Mini, Rock Exotica Omni Block 1.1”, Rock Exotica Omni Block 2.0”, Rock
Exotica PMP 2.0, Rock Excotica Kootenay Ultra
A pulley is a wheeled device which is used to reduce friction when the rope changes direction. There are
a wide variety of designs and shapes for use in particular applications, such as Prusik-minding, knot-passing
and tandem pulleys.
2
extendable equipment.
If it isn’t possible to eliminate the danger, then the risk of falling should be mitigated as much as possible,
and the appropriate protective equipment should be used. For example, it may be possible to use collective
protection, such as guardrails. However, if people and equipment need to pass in and out of the area
regularly, this solution brings additional problems.
A work restraint system prevents an operative from reaching an edge from which they could fall.
A fall arrest systems is used when there is likelihood of a fall, for example while climbing a structure.
Fall arrest systems can either be general/collective (eg guardrails or nets) or personal (eg a fall arrest
lifeline).
The use of personal fall arrest systems offers a useful and workable alternative to closing off the area. The
use of these systems is subject to the following conditions:
The above conditions often hold true when carrying out inspection and maintenance work in confined
spaces.
2
user can only move within a safe area. This should be arranged in such a way that a fall cannot take place.
When using work restraint equipment, the user is attached to an adjustable connection point (attached to
the harness and anchor point) in the safe area. The only possible fall would be within the safe area, if, for
example, the user slipped and tripped. Work restraint prevents a fall by stopping the user actually reaching
the edge.
With proper use of work restraint equipment, the risks are considerably lower than when using a fall arrest
system, because no fall takes place. For this reason, the attachment point on the harness may be lower than
with the use on a fall arrest system.
When using work restraint systems in accessible locations, normally no rescue facilities are needed.
Therefore, this approach is preferable over other fall protection systems.
2 •
•
A personal fall arrest system consisting of a force attenuating device
The attachment point on the harness
When working at height and/or above depth with a fall protection system, the user faces additional risks.
When falling, the user faces the possibility of:
•
•
Inertia reel fall arrest blocks
Inertia reel fall arrest blocks with built-in rescue possibility
2
• Fall arrest rope grabs on a vertical anchor line
When a fall occurs placing the line under load, the line is stopped by a centrifugal brake/inertia reel (as in
a car seat belt). The emergent energy is absorbed by the internal shock absorber. With mini-blocks, the
2
energy absorber runs as a tape damper between the end of the tape and the connection.
When using larger fall arrest blocks, the housing is suspended from the anchor point. The karabiner at the
end of the line is attached to the user’s harness. When using a mini-block, the housing is attached to the
harness, and the end of the line is attached to the anchor point. This gives the user more freedom as they
have the fall arrest block with them. It is important that the attachment or anchoring point for the fall
arrest blocks are located above the user.
When using a fall arrest device with built-in rescue capabilities, it should be attached to a temporary anchor
point, in the form of a tripod. This arrangement is often used when entering confined spaces vertically, and
offers a number of advantages over other systems. The user is protected not only when entering and
leaving the room, but it is also easy to evacuate the area from outside if necessary. A precondition for this
is that the user is connected in open space and continues into the confined space with the fall arrest and
rescue system.
A fall arrest system with built-in rescue capabilities is less suitable for a larger confined space, where more
than one person is working and horizontal movements take place over larger distances. The user would
then have to detach from the system, which means that they can no longer rely on the evacuation system.
This method means that greater demands are made on the reliability and monitoring of the atmosphere
within the confined space.
The anchor line hangs vertically from the anchor point (above the user) to the bottom of the confined
space. The user is connected to the anchor line by means of a rope grab. When a fall occurs, the rope grab
will immediately clamp the line, arresting the fall. To absorb the energy of the fall, a tape damper exists
between the line clamp and the user’s harness.
• The front of the harness, level with the sternum (sternal point of attachment)
2
• The rear of the harness (dorsal point of attachment)
Any other attachment points on the harness (if any) are only earmarked for work restraint equipment and
work positioning systems.
Work positioning
When a user needs to have both hands free, they can use work positioning lines in order to ensure their
position in relation to the structure. The user must use fall protection equipment in addition to the work
positioning lines. The user must use a full fall arrest system and positioning harness. The harness must be
suitable for both fall arrest and work positioning.
2 The fall factor is the ratio between the height of the fall and the available rope length to absorb the energy
of the fall. It is calculated as follows:
Height of fall
Fall factor = ------------------------------------
Rope length
A fall factor greater than 1 must be avoided at all times, as the distance fallen and risk of receiving secondary
strikes becomes unacceptable. In all cases where a fall factor greater than 0.3 may occur, special energy-
absorbing features are used, eg shock-absorbing lanyards in fall arrest systems. These energy-absorbing
features bring forces in the system to a maximum of 6kN.
/ X
/
2
worker at height must be able to move and position themselves independently, and self-rescue.
When ascending purpose-made access structures including fixed ladders and pegs, a natural climbing
rhythm should be established so that there is concurrent movement of left hand with left foot, followed by
right hand with right foot etc. Students should grip the horizontal section of the ladder in preference to the
vertical sides and should consider the distance to be climbed so matching their cadence or rate of ascent
accordingly. Breathing should be relaxed and the grip on the ladder rounds should be just tight enough to
prevent falling backwards, otherwise lactic acid will soon build up in the forearms, leading to what rock
climbers describe as being pumped. If fall arrest lanyards are used to protect the ascent, then students may
find that it may be useful to place the scaffold hook on the round immediately above the one that they can
comfortably grip. By doing so, the hand naturally falls to an appropriate height, while the scaffold hook is
located in such a way that should a fall occur then the distance is minimised.
If students are to climb a structure that does not have evenly placed treads like a ladder, then students may
wish to consider a different climbing approach. A concept borrowed from mountaineers (who must remain
in balance and not fall off should a single hand or foothold fail) is based upon maintaining three points of
contact at all times. By moving only one hand or one foot at a time during ascent, a triangle of stability
is maintained, from which it is possible to always remain in balance, or reverse a move should there be a
requirement. Under such circumstances, the climbing is likely to be more considered and less rhythmical
than that of a ladder ascent (or descent). It is also very likely that climbers who are accessing a patient
away from the normal route of access will be using fall arrest lanyards with scaffold hooks and they must be
careful to pre-place the hooks above their location at all times and use different clipping locations for each
hook wherever possible, so maintaining redundancy.
2
are available with hundreds of knots for all kind of applications. However, for specialised rescues, such as
rescues from height, there are only a limited number of knots that you need to use.
Depending on the knowledge or skills of the user, this means that one can limit the number and difficulty of
the knots that are learnt. However, as knowledge and skills increase, further knots can be learnt, which can
make things easier.
All the following knots are shown in their completed format, rather than showing step-by-step instructions
for tying them.
2
Anchors can be man-made or natural, and options include steel beams, chimneys, railings, anchor eyes or
trees.
The preferred option is to use a permanent or temporary anchor that complies with EN 795, and that is
periodically checked.
When a fall occurs, the maximum arrest force should not exceed 6kN. The height of chosen anchor point
above the user is an important factor in limiting this force. (See page 34).
Anchors must be have a sufficient safety factor to withstand static and dynamic loads. Assuming a 2-person
load of 2kN, allowing for a static safety factor of 10x, then a 20kN (10 x 2kN) anchor rating is appropriate.
Permanent anchor points are most commonly attached to wood, stone/concrete and steel. Each has its
own advantages and disadvantages.
When installing permanent anchor points, one should assess and check the stability and solidity of the
structure. This assessment can often be difficult if the inside of the structure can’t be accessed.
Natural anchors
Natural anchors are more commonly used in a wilderness rescue setting. Depending on circumstances,
they may be used in conjunction with temporary man-made anchors.
Rescue anchor systems are built with two important principles: redundancy and focus.
The main line anchor system and belay line anchor system are built entirely separately of each other. Should
the main line system fail, then the belay system and anchors are designed to catch the load. Each anchor
system can be constructed with multiple anchors to further contribute towards redundancy
The individual anchor points are rigged in such a way to provide a focal point for the system to operate
from. The focal point may be a rigging plate or a multiple strand overhand knot on a bight (colloquially
known as a BFK or big fat knot). Separate focal points are required for main and belay lines. For rescue
operations, separate anchor systems should be used for the rescuers and for the victim.
• Type of material
2
• Effect of external heat/cold sources
• Effect of chemicals
• Diameter
• Rust/rot
• Hollow vs not hollow
• Sharp edges
• Environmental factors
• Favourable/unfavourable location
• Quality of any secondary attachments to larger objects
With attachment points on vertical uprights, the closer they are to the ground, the stronger they will be,
due to less leverage.
• Load-sharing
• Creating a backup, in case a single anchor point fails
• Creating a more convenient focal point, close to the attachment point
When creating multiple anchor points, ensure that if one anchor point fails, the other anchor points aren’t
subjected to a large shock load.
The internal angle of multiple load-sharing anchor points should not exceed 120°, due to force
multiplication.
Basket hitch with Basket hitch with delta Basket hitch with extra
karabiner maillon karabiner
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