INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Modeling The
MAYFLOWER
1620
Technical Characteristics
Model Shipways Kit No. MS 2020
Scale: 5/32" = 1 ft.
Overall Length: 22"
Height: 17"

Instructions and model prototype

prepared by Chuck Passaro

Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc - Hollywood Florida

Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. - www.modelexpo-online.com
 2

Bearding line
2”
3/3
to
Taper

Rabbet Strip
Rabbet Strip
The two photos above show the rabbet strip glued to the bottom of the bulkhead former. The bulkhead former is tapered
from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.

ness of the bulkhead former gradually to in their respective slots on the bulkhead
GETTING STARTED 3/32” wide. This means you will actually former. Use the laser etched reference
be reducing the thickness of the rabbet lines under each slot of the bulkhead for-
The Mayflower has been designed as a strip somewhat also. The bulkhead former mer as a guide. There are also etched ref-
plank-on-bulkhead kit. Many of the ele- only needs to be tapered in the area erence lines on one side of each bulkhead.
ments have been laser cut for you and only between the bearding line and the rabbet All of the reference lines on the bulkheads
need some minor sanding before assembly. strip. You do not need to taper the bulk- forward of the center line should face for-
Cut all of the laser cut elements free with a head former forward of this area. Check ward. All the reference lines on the bulk-
sharp blade to avoid splitting them. Be the tapered area on both sides of the bulk- heads aft of the center line should face the
sure to sand any “burn” residue from the head former to ensure it is consistent. stern. When satisfied with their fit you
part edges before applying any glue for can glue them permanently into position.
assembly. To complete this step glue the bow, fore
Assembling the bulkheads…
mast, main mast and mizzen mast fillers
To begin, remove the false keel (bulkhead into position. See the photos provided
former) and lightly sand its edges. Glue a Remove all the bulkheads and test fit them
1/16” x 1/8” basswood strip along the bot-
tom edge of the bulkhead former. See the Bulkheads in position at the bow
photos above. The bulkhead former is
3/16’ wide. When you glue this “rabbet
strip” along the bottom of the bulkhead
former be sure to leave an equal amount of
space on both sides of it. The rabbet that
is formed will help you while planking the
hull. An additional rabbet strip should be
glued to the stern post as shown in the sec-
ond photo above.

You will notice that there is a laser etched

reference for the bearding line at the stern.
This is also shown in that same photo.
The etched reference line only appears on
one side of the bulkhead former and you
will need to transfer this reference line to Bow filler
the other side. The bulkhead former needs
to be tapered gradually from this bearding
line to the rabbet strip. Reduce the thick- Two fore mast fillers between bulkheads on port side.
 which show the bulkheads and fillers
glued into place on the prototype. Please
Mizzen mast filler
note that two fore mast fillers are supplied
Main mast filler for the port side of the bulkhead former.
They are both notched out to receive an
eye bolt in the next step. These filler
pieces should fit “snug” between their
respective bulkheads without forcing them
out of square with the former.

Paint the recessed area of the fore mast

filler notch black. Then create a large eye
bolt from some 28 gauge black wire as
shown in the accompanying photo below.
Use an appropriate sized wood dowel or
drill bit to make it. You can compress the
“eye” somewhat before installing it into
the notch. The eye bolt should be inserted
into a pre-drilled hole in the notch. Drill
Bulkheads in position at the bow the hole in the center of the notch which
will be directly on the seam between the

Eye bolt in filler mast faces forward as shown

XX

Note how reference

line is centered

YY

ZZ

False decks for beakhead 3

 Dummy cannon support strip is positioned

two filler pieces. See the photo showing the eye bolt in position. Gun Port Framing…
It has been painted white so that it will show up in the photo.
Take note of its orientation as the eyebolt should face forward as This Mayflower model is designed so the four gun ports on each
shown. It is shown differently on the plans so you would know side of the hull can be shown open. All of the ports will have
the approximate size of the eye bolt needed. dummy cannons inserted into a support strip. This dummy can-
non support strip has been laser cut for you. It is 1/16” thick.
Glue the support strip against the back side of the notches cut
Finishing the bow and stern framing… into the bulkheads. See the photo provided. You could paintthe
strip black at this time also so it wont be seen through the fin-
There are two laser cut pieces that form the deck for beakhead. ished ports.
Glue them into position as shown in the photo provided. Note
that the reference lines etched on bulkhead “E” are centered Begin framing the gun ports as follows. The top and bottom
within the width of each deck filler. The top of each piece frames for each port are defined using 3/32” x 3/32” strips. Glue
should also be flush with the top edge of the bulkhead former. these into position first. There are small notches laser cut into
each bulkhead for them. These strips should stand proud of the
There are two laser cut stern frames. They should be glued to outside edges of the bulkheads so you can sand them “true” to
the face of bulkhead #5. There are two laser etched reference the shape of the hull later. The space between the two strips
lines indicating where each stern frame needs to be positioned. should be ¼”. The sides for each port opening are created using
The top edge of the stern frames should be flush with the top the same sized strips. You will have to determine their position
edge of bulkhead #5. Once the glue for the two frames is thor- using plan sheet four as a guide. Transfer the locations for each
oughly dry you can attach the three stern pieces XX, YY, and ZZ of these port frames using a “tick strip”. Place a piece of paper
as shown. Examine plan sheet four for more details. There are on the plans and draw tick marks to identify the locations of each
more laser-etched referenced lines on each of these pieces to help vertical port frame and the bulkheads surrounding them. Hold
you center them with the bulkhead former. Note that the two the tick strip against the hull and transfer the locations of the ver-
laser etched reference lines on part (ZZ) are only 1/8” apart. tical frames. The top and bottom of these vertical port frames
This will be important while you are planking that area of the should be angled as shown on plan sheet four. There is a small
stern. detailed drawing on that plan that shows a side view of the port
framing and support strip.

3/32” x 3/32” strips are used to frame the four gunports

False decks are in position and the hull is faired. The bulkhead edges are beveled more severely at the bow and stern

Fairing the hull in preparation Also check it at mid-hull level and at the deck levels. See the
photos provided showing the beveled bulkheads at the bow and
for planking… stern. Compare these photos to the earlier ones presented in this
guide.
The skeleton of the Mayflower is essentially completed. Before
planking can begin, the hull needs to be “faired”. To fair the
To complete this step, glue the four laser cut false decks into
hull you need to bevel the outside edges of the bulkheads so
position as shown in those same photos. Sand the top edges of
they create a smooth run for the planks. The hull needs more
the bulkheads first to ensure the decks sit flush against them and
beveling at the bow and the tuck of the stern. Use a long piece
lay flat. The top of the bulkheads should be faired the same way
of medium grade sandpaper that will span across several bulk-
as you did for the sides of the hull. There are four false deck
heads at a time. Begin shaping the hull until a “batten” will lay
templates. A center line has been laser-etched down each false
flush across every bulkhead edge. A batten is a thin (1/32” x
deck to help you line them up with the bulkhead former. Center
1/8”) planking strip that is periodically tested against the hull to
them properly so the gratings and other deck fittings referenced
check its consistency. Make sure the batten has no unsightly
on them will be correctly located. Note that the square opening
dips and it smoothly spans across each bulkhead edge as it bends
in the forecastle deck will be aligned over the recessed notch and
around the bow and stern. Use the batten at various levels on
eye bolt. Sand the edges of these decks to conform to the faired
the hull. Check its run along the bottom of the hull at the keel.
hull.

2nd layer
of planking on
1st layer of the counter is
planking on the almost completed
5 counter (1/16” x 1/8”) (1/32” x 1/8”)
 The bulwark template is temporarily pinned to the hull and the
bottom edge is traced onto the bulkheads. The top edge of the
first plank will line up with these reference marks.

Planking the hull… ond layer of planking you must cut the opening in the counter
for the tiller. See the same photo and the plans for details.
To make planking the hull easier, the process will be broken down Examine plan sheet one to find the size of the tiller opening.
into separate steps. Planking strips of different widths will be Start by drilling a hole in the center of the opening and use
used depending on the area being discussed. There will be many some needle files to enlarge it to the correct final shape and
steps in the process but take your time completing them all. size. This first layer of counter planking should make a flush
transition onto the stern piece (ZZ).

STEP 1- Planking the counter – The counter will be planked The second layer of planking will cover the counter and stern
with two layers. Use 1/8” x 1/16” strips for the first layer. Cut piece (ZZ). This must be done now so the planking on each
these strips a little longer than required so you can “fair” the side of the hull will overlap this stern planking rather than the
counter to shape afterwards. The final shape of the counter on other way around. The stern planking above the counter will be
both sides should be symmetrical. A batten placed across the both addressed later.
sides of the hull should smoothly transition from bulkhead #5 onto
the edgse of the counter. See the photo on the previous page. The second layer is planked with 1/32” x 1/8” strips. Plank the
Note how the counter planks create a graceful curve. Sand them counter first and trim the planks neatly around the tiller open-
all smooth and apply some wood filler if needed to prepare the ing. Since this is the final layer of planking you may want to
surface for the second layer of planking. Before you start the sec- simulate the caulking between each plank which would have

The five rows of planks placed under the

initial plank will frame the gunports. The Initial plank
planks are trimmed flush with the port 1
edges. 2
3
4
5

6
1st belt of planking completed in step two.
 7
Note the space
above the initial
plank at the bow.
This will be planked
later in the project

This first jig will help you pre-

bend planks around the severe
curve at the bow. Several
planks can be bent at one time
in this simple jig.

been standard practice at the time. To do this, simply run a soft head edges for this purpose. Temporarily pin the bulwark tem-
pencil down the edge of each plank before gluing it into place. plates in position. Pre drill holes through the template and into
This will darken the seams and define each plank. the bulkhead edges to temporarily position them. Use the tiny
brass nails provided in the kit to secure them. Do not use any
Then proceed to plank stern piece (ZZ). Use the same sized glue as they will be removed once you have established the refer-
strips. Start by planking the port lids first. The planking on the ence marks. You will notice that there are reference lines already
lids will run horizontally. Then plank the area around each port. laser-etched on one side of each bulkhead to help you establish
You will notice on the plans that the planks around these ports their placement. The bottom edge of each bulkhead template
and beneath the counter run diagonally. Once again you can sim- should line up with these etched reference marks, more-or-less.
ulate the caulking between each plank. See the photos provided. By using the template you will be correcting any minor fluctua-
You may opt to add more detail to your Mayflower planking. tions with the original laser-etched references. The bottom edge
The planks would have been fastened to the hull using wooden of the bulwark template will establish the correct smooth run for
pegs called “trunnels” or “tree nails”. There are several ways the hull planking. Pin both bulwark templates into position so
you can create them for the model. Keep in mind that the area you can check that they are symmetrical with each other. Once
below the lower wales will be painted over with “white stuff”. you are satisfied, mark new reference lines in pencil on each
Should you decide to tree nail the planks, the area below the bulkhead edge following the bottom of each template. Remove
lower wales including stern piece (ZZ) can be left as is. The tree the bulwark templates when you are finished. See the photo pro-
nails won’t be visible once the area is painted. Please note that vided on page 6 showing the bulwark templates temporarily
the port lid hinges and other lid details will not be added at this pinned into place.
time. We will address this a little later in the project.
All of the planks need to be tapered on one end before you start
One easy way to simulate the tree nail pattern is to drill tiny gluing them to the hull. The last three inches of each plank
holes where the ships frames would be located. Then sand the should gradually taper from 1/8” to 80% of their width. The
surface with some fine sandpaper so the holes will fill up with tapered end will be placed at the bow. Take your time gluing the
wood dust. After being stained the tree nails will show up nicely. INITIAL plank into position. Establish a smooth run for this
Another method would be to fill in the holes with some wood plank across the hull from bow to stern. The top edge of this
filler. Sand it smooth and then stain. A more elaborate approach first plank should line up with the reference lines you made on
would be to actually use wooden trunnels. Tooth picks can be the bulkhead edges. Bending the planks around the curve at the
inserted into each hole with some white glue. Snip of the excess bow can be made easier by soaking the planks and placing them
with a nail clippers when they are dry. This technique creates a into a jig. See the photo above. The jig is very simple to make.
good effect but is very time consuming. Experiment on some Just use a few screws strategically placed along the approximate
scrap planking and choose the method that works best for you. curve you need. If you place the tapered end of the planks into this
jig when they are wet, they will retain the appropriate bend after they
STEP 2 - First layer of planking on the port and starboard are dry. If the screws are long enough you can pre-bend several
sides of the hull planks to shape at a time. You should pre-form 12 planks for this
step.
This Mayflower kit was designed to be planked with two layers.
The first layer of planking will be done using 1/8” x 1/16” strips. Keep in mind that this is just the first layer of planking. There is
To prepare for the first layer of planking you must establish the no need to simulate the caulking or to tree nail this layer. But
run for the planks along the hull from bow to stern. Use the two take your time trying to neatly plank the hull by getting nice tight
laser cut bulwark templates to create reference lines on the bulk- joints. It will be good practice for when you start the final layer.
 8
Spiled plank Stop #2

Stop #1
Spiling guide
This second jig helps you PRE-SPILE planks edge-wise. The curved planks
will reduce the need to edge-bend the planks at the same time you are trying
to glue them into position. The planks will lay flat across the bulkhead edges.
The lower edge of the planks will not lift up off of the bulkheads.

To complete this step you will be planking only five more rows the hull you will no doubt notice how the planks at the bow are
on each side of the hull (under the initial plank you positioned). no longer sitting flat against the edges of the bulkheads. Even
These five planks will complete the framing around each gun though you took the time to pre-bend these planks in a jig, when
port. This first layer of planks can be glued to the hull in one you position them around the bow they need to bend edge-wise in
length or two. There is no need to plank the 1st layer in 25’ order to get a tight seam with the previous row. By trying to
lengths as would have been the case on the actual ship. You force this edge bending, the bottom of the plank lifts up and
might find it easier to plank around the bow first with a shorter doesn’t sit flush against the bulkhead edge.
piece and then apply one longer plank to complete that row.
Whatever method you choose, each row should be notched To address this issue, you will no longer need to pre-bend the
around the top and bottom of the gun ports as needed. Cut the remaining planks in the jig you constructed. The bend around the
planks so they are flush with the inside edges of each gun port. bow is less severe now as you progress towards the keel. But a
See the photos provided on page 6 which show step 2 complet- second jig built to pre-bend the planks edge-wise will correct the
ed. Note how the planks were trimmed flush around each gun lifting of the planks. It will make it easier for you to get them to
port. Another photo (top left on page 7) shows the bow planked sit flat against the bulkhead edges. In real ship building practice,
after step 2 was completed. Note how the initial plank doesnt sit this phenomenon was prevented by “spiling” each plank to its
flush with the deck of the beakhead. This area will be planked proper shape. The planks would not be straight along the bow
later in project. and would instead be curved edge-wise so they would fit proper-
ly. You would need to start with a plank three times as wide as
Steps 3 and 4 - The third step would be to plank the hull further those provided in this kit. After you determine the correct curve
so that half of the remaining space towards the keel is planked. for a plank it would be cut from this wider strip. This method
The fourth and final step would logically be to complete the creates a huge amount of waste and takes a considerable amount
planking towards the keel, but this time you could reverse your of time and practice to master. The additional jig offers an alter-
direction by starting from the keel UP. For both of these steps native to this process. Should you want to learn some advanced
you won’t have to contend with notching or trimming the planks planking and “spiling” techniques, Model Expo offers an excel-
around the ports. But there are other considerations which you lent book on the subject. A superbly illustrated guide called
are probably starting to encounter. As you progress further down “Planking the built-up ship model”.

This second jig will “pre-spile” each plank to the approximate

shape you need without having to cut and trim them. A laser cut
“spiling” guide has been provided for this purpose. It is 1/16”
thick. The curve for the remaining planks has already been deter-
mined. Simply glue this spiling guide to a scrap length of 1” x
6” inch lumber. Then position the two “stops” as shown on the
photo provided above. The stops are positioned so three tapered
planks will fit snugly into the jig. Each stop was cut from a scrap
length of 1/16” x 1/8” strips. That same photo shows the jig with
three planks being pre-spiled to shape. The spiling guide and
stops have been painted black so you can see them in that photo.
A pre-spiled plank is also shown and you can see how it retains
its shape. Soak the strips and push the three tapered ends into the
jig together. Then carefully bend each plank slowly, edge-wise
until it is firmly against the spiling guide. Bend one strip at a
time back towards the guide. Hold it down flat against the jig’s
surface as it will want to twist and spring free. The last strip will
be bent back and held in position by the 2nd “stop”.
9

Stealer cut to 1/2 its width and allowed to gradually taper

to its full 1/8” width as it runs off the stern.

The next plank is notched out to fit around the stealer. Start by making a 1/16” long cut across the width of the plank
where it will butt into the end of the stealer. Then gradually taper the aft end to the full 1/8” width as it runs off the stern.
Before you stop holding the three planks down firmly against twist to them. Soaking the plank with water before hand will
the jig’s surface you should place a heavy book, brick or item on make it easier to glue into position. There is no need to pre-spile
top of them. This is the reason why the spiling guide and stops the garboard plank in the jig first.
are the same thickness as the planks being shaped. The book
needs to lay flat across the spiling guide and the planks. They The area to be planked is greater at the stern then it is at the bow.
will always want to spring free because of the tension created. This is the reason why you tapered every plank at the bow. But
But after they are fully dry and you remove the planks, they will the area to be covered is still greater at the stern and more rows of
retain the artificially “spiled” shape. See the photo (on the pre-planks will be needed there. In order to fill the additional space,
vious page) of a spiled plank held against the hull. You can see two stealers will be required. You can place one of them in the
how the shape mirrors the run of the planks already glued planking belt for step 3 and the another in the final planking belt.
around the bow. This process takes a little practice but once you To create a stealer, simply taper a plank to half its width (1/16”
get the hang of it you will appreciate how much easier it will be wide). See the photo above showing a stealer glued to the hull.
to plank the balance of the Mayflower hull (any hull for that The next row of planking needs to be notched to fit around the
matter). You might even want to try using a plank from this sec- stealer. Start by making a 1/16” long cut in the plank where it
ond jig while planking the first belt in step 2. You might find itwill meet the end of the stealer. Then taper the plank gradually so
helpful for the last few planks in the first belt. The edge-bend- it is the full 1/8” width as it runs off the stern. See the additional
ing required is not that great but the choice is yours. photo that shows the notched plank after it was glued to the hull.
The stealers will only be long enough to span across about a third
Some additional notes for step 3 and 4 - Begin step 4 by plac- of the hull at the stern.
ing the first plank (called the garboard plank) against the keel.
The garboard plank should be 3/16” x 1/16”. It is slightly wider Once you complete step four, sand the hull smooth. Use some
than the other hull planking. The forward end of the garboard wood filler to fill any gaps between the planks. This will prepare
plank is actually tapered to a flat edge. See the photo provided. the surface for the final layer of planking.
The forward end of the garboard plank starts at bulkhead (C).
The next few planks positioned can have their ends flat also.
This would require that you notch each plank around the end of
the previous one. The flat forward ends are optional though.. Garboard plank
This would have been the way the planks ended at the bow on
the actual ship, but you can taper them to a point if you prefer.
The bottom of the hull will painted and there is another layer
that will cover these. Unless you plan on leaving the second
layer natural this extra detail will not be seen if painted.
Depending on your experience and comfort level the option is
yours. You can see both methods used in the same photo at the
left. Note how only the garboard plank has a blundt end and the
next plank is notched around it. The other planks are just
tapered to a point and some of youmight find that easier to do.
You may need to clamp the aft ends of the planks against the
bulkhead former at the stern since there will be a significant
10
Planking completed on the port side

Hatches framed with 1/16” x 1/16” wood strips Planking the Decks...
It is much easier to plank the decks now
Beakhead is before the bulwarks are attached to the hull.
not planked All of the decks should be planked except
yet. for the “half deck” and “beakhead”. These
decks will be planked later in the project.
Bass wood strips (1/32” x 1/8”) are sup-
plied for the deck planking. The hatches
on the upper deck and forecastle deck can
be completed at this time as well. See the
photos provided. Stain the decks a light
color. They would have been lighter in
appearance than the other planking used
throughout the ship. The prototype model
was stained using MinWax “Golden Oak”
stain but any light shade would suffice.

Construct the hatches first before laying

your planks. Use 1/8” x 1/16” strips to
make the coamings (frames) for the main
hatches on the upper deck. Then use the
grating strips provided to finish them up.
The base for the capstan on the upper deck
is made using 1/8’ x 1/16” strips. They
Method for creating were glued to the deck and stained before
the hatch coaming the thinner deck planking was added
and grating. Note the around them and the hatches. Several ring
ledge inside the bolts are shown along the sides of the main
coaming. The hatch and can be created using the brass
grating will sit
on top of
this ledge.
It was made
using a thinner
strip of wood glued
to the inside edges.
(1/32” x 1/32”)
 Main hatches created first before planking. Use the grating 11
strips provided and frame with 1/16” x 1/8” wood strips

Capstan base

eye bolts and rings provided with the kit. Paint them black before Planking and detailing the bulkheads…
gluing them into pre-drilled holes along the hatch.
There are five bulkheads that need to be planked and detailed.
The deck planking should be staggered as shown in the drawing
Most of them will be completed now so we can add the two bul-
on the previous page. You can color one edge of each plank with
wark templates in the next step. The first three are shown in the
a soft pencil to simulate the caulking between them. Do not add
photos on the next page. It is easier to complete them while they
the waterway at this time. It will be added later. Depending on
are off the model and they should only be glued into position
how much detail you want to add to your model, the planks can
once finished. These bulkheads will be positioned at each break
be tree nailed also. As mentioned earlier, depending on your
in the deck levels. The remaining bulkhead (beakhead) will be
skill level, you can add them to the model as shown above.
planked and added after the bulwark templates are positioned
later.
The forecastle deck has two hatches. First theres the hole you
created for the running rigging and there is another that was used
The bulkhead for the GREAT CABIN is a good one to start
for a removable galley stack. This hatch was covered with boards
with. It will be mostly hidden under the half deck once it is
when the galley stack was not in use. The cover boards have ring
extended later in the project. All of these bulkheads will be
bolts on both sides for handles. See the photos provided. The
planked with 1/8” x 1/32” strips. Plank the door first. You can
coamings (frames) for these hatches are made from 1/16” x 1/16”
simulate the caulking between each plank as done earlier. Then
bass wood strips. The Poop deck doesn’t have any hatches or
finish it up by gluing the horizontal planking around the door.
deck structures. You can plank it as you did the other decks.

All of the decks (except for the half deck and beakhead) are planked with
1/32” x 1/8” wood strips, tree nailed and stained.
Be sure to bend each plank so it follows the camber created by head. Test it first to see if an equal amount of the frame shows
the bottom edge of the bulkhead. The hinges for the door are around the window on all four sides. You can make adjustments
made using card stock that is painted black. Glue them into posi- if needed before you glue it into place permanently. Use white
tion. Then place a tiny length of 28 gauge black wire on top of glue when attaching the film to the bulkhead. The fumes from
them to simulate the hinge pin. You could also place tiny super glue will fog up the window and it will be ruined. It can
droplets of white glue or super glue along the hinge straps to sim- not be removed after it develops. See the photo provided.
ulate the bolts that would secure them to the door. Use a pointed
dowel or nail to apply each droplet. You should practice on some Another simpler alternative would be to make a photocopy of
scrap cardstock first until you are confident that you can create the diamond pattern shown in this manual. The photocopy can
the bolt heads consistently (size and shape). Surface tension be placed behind the acetate and used to simulate the diamond
keeps each droplet round and properly shaped. Let these bolt pattern. Finish it off by framing the window as described above.
heads dry completely and then paint them black. The handle for The choice is yours.
the door is made by gluing an eye bolt into a pre-drilled hole and
bending downward so it looks like a handle. They should be Note: You could paint the inside of the window opening that
painted black also. As mentioned earlier, there is really no need was laser cut out of bulkhead 4B before you glue the planked
to treenail this bulkhead since it will be mostly unseen under the poop bulkhead over it. This will help hide the internal construc-
half deck. tion from being viewed through the completed window and
make the diamond pattern more visible afterwards.
The POOP DECK bulkhead should be planked the same way.
Start with the door and plank around it. You can treenail this The bulkhead for the FORWARD CUBBRIDGE HEAD can be
bulkhead when you are finished. Estimate where the beams planked like the others. The only difference this time would be
would be and treenail accordingly. You can see where they were the addition of two ladders that flank the doors on each side.
located for the prototype in the photo provided. There is an addi- Take the locations for these steps from the plans. The steps have
tional feature on this bulkhead. It has a window. Clear acetate a unique shape and are laser cut for you. Note that this bulk-
film is provided in the kit for this purpose. Cut a small section of head will have a 1/32” x 1/16”molding strip placed across the
acetate larger than the window itself. Tape it over the drawing of top of it. DO NOT add this strip at this time. It will be
this window on plan sheet one. Use the thinner .010” wide white addressed later to ensure it lines up with the molding strips on
tape to create the diamond pattern on the film. It is self adhesive the outside of the hull. In anticipation of the placement of this
tape and will stick nicely to the acetate. Then use the thicker molding strip, make sure the top steps for each ladder are not
1/16” wide white tape to frame the window. You only want half placed too high or they will interfere with it. Once this bulkhead
the width of the frame to show once you position it on the reverse is glued onto the model you will notice that it extends quite a bit
side of the bulkhead. Place the tape so it will extend beyond the above the forecastle deck. This is OK and not a mistake. After
boundaries of the window itself. Glue this film with its diamond being glued on the model you should plank the inboard side that
pattern to the back side of the bulkhead. Be careful to make the extends above the forecastle deck with 1/32” x 1/8” strips to fin-
pattern appear straight from the front side of the planked bulk- ish it of. Do not treenail this side of the bulkhead.

Poop Bulkhead Forward Cubbridge Head

Great Cabin Bulkhead Diamond pattern

used for the
windows. Place the
acetate on top of this
and use the thin
white pinstripe (.010)
tape to make the
pattern. It is self
adhesive and will
stick to the clear
12 film.
 13
Stern Transom Forward Cubbridge Head
planked inboard bulkhead in position
only

Poop
Bulkhead

Great Cabin
Bulkhead

The last bulkhead to address in this step is the STERN TRAN- continuous length across the templates. The two windows (port
SOM. This bulkhead has no details and is pretty straight for- and starboard) can be completed using the same techniques
ward. The outboard side of this bulkhead should NOT be described for the poop bulkhead. You can see them in the photo
planked at this time. Simply glue it to the outside of stern piece on the next page. Both were glued to the inboard side of the bul-
(XX). The bottom of the transom should be flush with the bot- warks after the planking was sanded and stained.
tom of stern piece (XX). It will extend well above the deck
level so be careful not to break it. Plank the inboard side of this That photo on the next page shows the finished results. Glue the
bulkhead instead after you glue it into position. Use 1/8” x bulwarks to the hull. Position them along the rabbet (the top of
1/32” strips. Sand the bulkhead flush with the sides of the hull the 1st planking belt). You should line up the bulwarks with the
afterwards. NOTE: All of the bulkheads are provided slightly Cubbridge head bulkhead. The remaining breaks at each deck
oversized. This will leave enough room for you to sand them level, including the bow and stern, can be sanded flush after-
flush with the sides of the hull after you glue them into place. wards. They are slightly oversized and will require some light
When all of the bulkheads are completed you can glue them onto sanding afterwards for a proper fit. Any gaps left along the rab-
the model. See the photos showing the four bulkheads glued bet should be filled with wood filler and sanded smooth.
onto the model.
Finishing the bow…
Planking and detailing the
bulwark templates… The bow can be completed in three steps. See the photo
provided for details.
It is now a good time to plank and install the two bulwark tem-
Step one – Complete the first layer of planking by inserting the
plates. The bulwark templates are laser cut for you. They are
missing plank at the bow. Use a 1/16” x 1/8” strip. Sand it flush
1/32” thick. Plank the inboard side of each bulwark before you
with the deck afterwards.
glue them onto the hull. Start by planking (1/32” x 1/8” strips)
them from the bottom edge of the template upward. This edge
Step two – Plank the deck for the Beakhead. Use 1/32” x 1/8”
creates the correct run for all of the planking from bow to stern.
strips. Sand them flush to the shape of the hull when you are
There is no need to treenail or stagger the planks inboard. These
done.
features will be added when the outside of the hull is planked
later. However, you may want to simulate the caulking between
Step three – Detail the bulkhead for the Beakhead. You can do
each plank as suggested earlier. You can run each strake in one
 14
Line up the bulwark template with the Cubbridge head bulkhead
when gluing it on the hull.

Planked inboard with 1/8” x 1/32” planks. Note the windows glued to
the inboard side of bulwarks.

this before you glue it into position. There are two doors shown 1/32” strips to plank this area. It can be treenailed and stained
on the plans and they can be made just like the others earlier. when you complete it. You should also plank the underside of
These doors appear on the original plans William Baker devel- this top section with 1/32” thick planks before you move ahead to
oped for the Mayflower replica. At some point since its launch the windowed area of the stern.
the doors were replaced. They were replaced with two ladders
like those shown on the Forward Cubbridge head. There are The middle section has a row of larger windows. The windows
more than enough laser cut steps provided in the kit and you can should be completed first. Use a single piece of acetate that
opt to model it with either configuration. Glue it into position stretches across the stern. Tape it on top of sheet one of the plans
and sand it flush to fit. See the photo below. so you can create the diamond pattern with the .010 wide pin-
stripe tape. Then frame each window with the thicker tape. This
Finishing up the Stern… time you should cut the 1/16” wide tape in half so it is only 1/32”
wide. This is a simple procedure. Just run a length across your
There are two remaining areas on the stern that can now be cutting board and make sure it is straight. Then use a metal ruler
planked. The top area is fairly straight forward. Use 1/8” x to carefully cut it in half. The tape should still adhere to the
acetate after you remove it from the cutting board. After framing
the windows you should cut them along the outside edge of the
window frames. The acetate will be too thick to plank over.
Leave the group of windows together as shown in the first photo
provided on the next page.

3rd - detail and Before you glue the windows to the stern, paint the inside of the
position the openings black. Then glue a 1/16” x 1/16” strip under the over-
beakhead hang of the stern. You can now glue the bank of windows to the
bulkhead stern. Set it against the 1/16” strip and center it side-to-side.
Then glue a 1/8” x 1/16” strip under the windows. The remain-
ing vertical timbers can now be cut to fit around the windows to
complete them. The two vertical planks that appear to the left and
1st - put final the right of the center window can be cut to length. Because they
plank on will be placed on top of the acetate you should use thinner (1/8”
x 1/32”) strips. The two remaining vertical planks on the outside
of the hull should be 1/16” thick since they will be set against the
windows rather than on top of them. Finish off the planking
beneath the windows with 1/16” thick planks. Treenail and stain
2nd - them when you are finished. Finally, there are four laser cut
plank deck knees that should be sanded smooth and glued between the win-
dows. The knees on the edges of the stern should be set flush
with the outside of the hull. The final layer of external planking
 Completed stern with 15
1/8” x 1/32”
four laser cut knees in
planks on
place between the
the top
windows. Planks were
section
also stained and
treenailed.

1/8” x 1/16”
thick planks
on the middle
section.
Plank around
the windows.

will run right over these knees and be sanded to match their pro-
file. See the photo provided that shows this step completed. The
port lids and other stern molding will be addressed later in the
shown on the deck profile. They can be properly trimmed and
project. You can now focus on the bulwark stanchions in prepa-
shaped after the pre-planking is completed. The photo on the
ration for the final hull planking.
next page shows the pre-planking glued to the stanchions on the
fore castle. Before you glue the stanchions into place you must
Adding the Stem, Keel and Stern Post… first place the waterway on deck. Use 1/8” x 1/32” strips for the
waterway. They should run along all four sides of the forecastle.
Before you start the bulwark stanchions, it would be a good Check the plans for details.
opportunity to glue the stem into position. The stem has been
laser cut for you. You can glue it onto the hull. It is notched out Glue each stanchion against the inside of the forecastle bulwarks.
where it will fit onto the deck of the beakhead. Center it down Don’t be skimpy with the glue here. These will need some hold-
the rabbit strip. Then glue the keel into position followed by the ing power. It might be a good idea to stain all of the stanchions
stern post. Use 1/8” x 1/8” strips for these. The stem knee will prior to gluing them on the model. The super glue has a tenden-
not be added yet since it will be quite fragile. That won’t be cy to prevent stain from penetrating into it. This will make the
glued into position until you begin the head framing and final finish blotchy and uneven. With all of the stanchions com-
planking later on. pleted on all four sides of the forecastle, you can now glue the
pre-planking strips to them. The open areas of the bulwarks are
Bulwark Stanchions and pre-planking… 1/8” high. You can use a scrap length of planking as a spacer.
Glue the pre-planking into position as shown in the photo pro-
The frames or stanchions are glued to the inboard sides of the vided on the next page. Then remove the spacer to reveal the
bulwarks. Bass wood strips 1/6” x 3/32” are provided for them. open areas. Be very careful not to glue the spacer to the stan-
The plans have been drawn to scale and can be used to accurately chions. The pre-planking strips are all 1/16” thick and the spe-
find the locations and lengths for each stanchion (see the over- cific widths for them are shown in the same photo.
head deck layouts on sheet one of the plans). A tick-strip will help
you mark the locations for each stanchion along the bulwarks. Add the waterways to the poop deck on all four sides as shown
Simply take a long strip of paper and hold it against the plans. on the plans. The upper deck will only have the waterway along
Place a tick mark where each stanchion is shown. Then hold the the bulwarks. The half deck will not have any waterway added at
tick strip along the model and mark each frame location using the this time. The photo on the next page shows the pre-planking on
tick strip as a guide. Cut each stanchion about 1/16” longer than one side of the hull in place. These planks are added after all of
 Pre-planking above the open 1/16” x 3/32” strips for bulwark
areas of the bulwarks stanchions. Make them longer than you
will actually need and then trim them
after the pre-planking is completed.

1/16” x 1/16”

1/16” x 1/8”

All open areas of the bulwarks are

1/8” high. Use a scrap piece of
planking as a spacer. Be careful not
to glue the spacer onto the model.

the stanchions are glued into position just 1/8” wide planking as a “spacer” just like to sand the outside of hull vigorously. The
like on the forecastle deck. Note how they on fore castle. Remove the spacer immedi- final exterior layer will increase the overall
were cut longer than needed. The pre- ately after you glue and clamp the pre- bulwark thickness to 3/32”. This is too
planking is used to complete the bulwarks planking in position. thick. At proper scale, the bulwark thick-
above the open areas of the hull. Your bul- ness should be approximately 1/16” after
warks should be about 1/16’ thick at this When dry the stanchions can be sanded to the final layer of planking is completed.
point. That is why the pre-planking will length and shaped. The top of each stan- The more you can reduce that thickness
also be 1/16” thick. The photo shows the chion is actually rounded off as shown on now, the less sanding will be required on
exact orientation and planking sizes need- the plans. With all of the pre-planking the final layer. This sanding will no doubt
ed to complete the pre-planking process. completed, sand the hull smooth in prepa- create a lot of dust. Make sure the model
All of the open bulwark areas here are ration for the final layer of exterior plank- is completely free of dust before you stain
1/8” high as well. You can use a length of ing. Try and reduce the thickness of the the inboard side of the bulwarks.The Final
bulwarks while doing so. Don’t be afraid

All frames/stanchions are made from 1/16” x 3/32”

bass wood strips cut to length using the plans as a guide

1/8” x 1/16”
wood strips for
pre-planking

1/16” x 1/16”
wood strips
for pre-planking
1/8” x 1/16”
wood strip for
pre-planking

16
 17

The first plank placed on the hull represents the run for the upper wales. The top edge of this plank follows the bottom
edge of the Bulwark template. Work your way upward from here to complete step one.

Final Layer of Planking… this step was completed on the prototype. Notch your planks
around the windows and port openings when needed.
The final layer of planking will be done using 1/8” x 1/32”
STEP TWO – Work your way down the hull from the initial
strips. The procedure will be broken down into four steps.
plank you added in step one. This belt will consist of only FIVE
Many of the techniques and jigs used for the initial layer of
more rows of planks. The fifth and lowest plank in this belt rep-
planking will also apply to the final layer. You can simulate the
resents the lower wales. You can taper each plank at the bow as
caulking between strakes with a lead pencil and stagger you
you did for the initial layer but make the taper slight. The last
joints between plank segments. You can stagger the plank joints
two inches of each plank should only taper to 90% of their width.
every 8 to 10 bulwark stanchions. Line the plank joints up with
Use the two jigs if necessary to making the planking process easi-
the bulwark stanchions as you progress. To make this process
er. The thinner planks may be easier to bend in both directions
easier you can mark the locations for each bulwark stanchion on
than the first layer of planking but the choice is yours.
the outside of the hull. The planks can also be treenailed if you
decided to add this detail to your model. The treenails should
When planking around the port openings leave a rabbet/reveal
also line up with the bulwark stanchions as they are what the
around them. This rabbet would have formed a tight seal with the
planks were fastened to. Be careful not to drill your treenail
port lid when closed. A corresponding rabbet on the port lid
holes all the way through the bulwarks as they shouldn’t show
would make the seal very water tight if done properly. The rabbet
up on the inboard side.
is created by leaving a reveal around each port so you can see the
initial layer of planking on all four sides. The reveal should be
STEP ONE – The first plank glued to the hull is the most
about 1/64” wide around each port. Try to keep it as consistent as
important. Take your time positioning it correctly. It will dic-
possible.
tate the run of the remaining planks on the hull. This first plank
glued to each side of the hull MUST follow the bottom edge of
STEP THREE – This step is optional. Step three would consist
the bulwark template. The top edge of the plank should follow
of planking the balance of the hull down to the keel. The hull
that curve exactly. It will create the proper run for all of the
will be painted below the lower wales. It will be painted White
remaining planks. It will also ensure that the many molding
(tallow). The tallow was actually a mixture of ingredients that
strips applied in step four will line up properly. Examine the
was closer to a dirty yellow color than white. It was used to pro-
plans and you will see how the molding runs along the top and
tect the hull from rot and worms that would bore into the planks.
bottom edges of each window and bulwark opening. If the
Since it will be painted, if you are happy with your first layer of
planks don’t follow the bottom edge of the bulwark template
planking below the lower wales, there is really no reason to do it
this will surely be more difficult to accomplish.
a second time. If you decide not to plank the hull with a second
layer below the wales, then sand second layer of planks from step
This initial plank actually represents the position for the upper
two so they taper nicely into the initial layer below them. There
wales. In step four we will place another planking strip on top
should be a gradual taper towards the initial layer of planks but it
of it as the wales were much thicker than the general planking.
doesn’t need to be a completely smooth and flush transition.
Once the first plank is in position, work your way up the hull to
Sanding them to half their thickness will suffice. You will be plac-
complete step one. A photo is provided that shows the hull after
ing another planking strip on top of the final strake in step two
 Step 2 is completed. The wales and trim have been glued into position.
The hull has been stained and painted.

which will represent the lower wales. This Remember that the upper wales are placed will be left natural and stained to match
was a thicker plank as mentioned earlier over the initial plank from step one and the the underlying hull planking.
and makes sanding this belt so it is lower wales are placed over the final
absolutely smooth and flush with the ini- strake from step two. Note that some of the molding strips and
tial layer below it unnecessary. the lower wales will continue around the
The remaining strips of molding will also stern. Some molding can also be seen on
STEP FOUR - The wales and molding follow the run of the planking. There are all four sides of the forecastle. Examine
strips can now be glued onto the hull. Use two sizes of molding strips (1/32” x 1/32” the plans carefully for these features. Keep
the plans as a guide for their placement. and 1/32” x 1/16”). Those that are 1/16” in mind how the molding on the port and
The wales should be glued into position wide are noted on the plans. All of the starboard sides of the hull need to be
first (1/8” x 1/32”). Both the upper and other molding is 1/32” wide. Some strips placed at consistent levels so you can posi-
lower wales are painted black. Glue each will be painted with two colors (green and tion these additional strips properly.
strip directly on top of the first layer of white or red and white). The color Otherwise it will be difficult to prevent a
planking following their run from bow to schemes for every strip of molding are crooked and wavy appearance for them on
stern. See the photos provided. shown on the plans. Those not mentioned the stern transom and forecastle bulkheads.

Step 2 is completed. The gun ports are detailed. The wales and trim have been
glued into position. The hull has been stained and painted.

18
Port Lid Details...
The stern port lids can be detailed the same way you constructed
the doors for the bulkheads. Simply use some card stock for the STEP TWO: Glue two strips of 1/8” x 1/32” strips together edge-
hinge straps and add a tiny length of 28 gauge wire to simulate wise to create the inboard layer of each lid. The lids will be cre-
the hinge pin. Then add an eye bolt between them as shown in ated in two layers. Cut the inboard layer so it leaves a 1/64” rab-
the photo above. You can also simulate the bolt heads as was bet around the port lid. Glue the inboard layer into position.
discussed earlier. The port lids on the side of the hull can be
shown open or closed. The choice is yours. Consider the fact STEP THREE: Use the thin brass strips provided to create the
that the Mayflower wasn’t a warship. To construct the port lids hinge straps. Cut them longer than needed and glue them to the
shown open follow the four steps shown in the photo below. outboard side of each lid. Then glue an eye bolt between them
as shown.
But first ...drill holes through the dummy cannon support strip
inside each port opening so you can glue the dummy cannons STEP FOUR: Paint the hinge straps and eye bolts black. Bend
into position. Paint them black first. the extensions for the hinge straps back slightly. Position them
in front of each port opening so you can mark the locations for
STEP ONE: Glue two lengths of 1/8” x 1/32” strips together each strap extension above each opening. Drill holes and insert
edgewise and then add a 1/16” wide strip to get the appropriate the hinge strap extension into them as shown in the photo above.
height for the port lids. Hold them against the hull so you can You will notice other photos throughout this guide that show the
cut them to the correct width to fit each port opening. port lids closed to help you decide which version to choose.

19
 Step 1
Color Scheme…

Paint the bottom of the hull tallow - or Stem Knee

eggshell. You might consider muting the Hole for
painted areas of your model. They may stay collar
appear too bright and “new”. A thin wash
of watered down brown acrylic paint was
used on the prototype. After painting a
small area of the hull immediately wipe it
Gammoning slot
clean leaving only a trace of brown

The colors and design chosen for this Hawse holes

model are a variation on those used by
William Baker. William Baker was the
designer of the replica now residing in
Step 2
Plymouth Massachusetts. The prototype
was painted similar to how the replica
looked at the time it was launched. You
will no doubt find countless variations
while doing research on the Mayflower.
Most historians now agree that more elab-
orate designs would not have been used
for the Mayflower because she was a sim-
ple merchant ship. The more elaborate Note how the
patterns and colors would have been molding lines up
reserved for important vessels. with those on the hull.
Notch the beakhead sides
The same thinking carries over to the here to fit over the wales.
“Mayflower” emblem used on the stern.
There is a debate over whether the flower
design would have been a carved decora- Step 3 Frames/stanchions
tion or simply painted on the stern of the
ship. A casting is provided in the kit and
can now be painted and glued to the stern.
The center of the flower is pale yellow
with white petals. The leaves surrounding
this are painted green. This design also
varies throughout history. This kit uses the
emblem that was shown on the replica at
the time of her launch.

Constructing the Beakhead…

The beakhead was a prominent feature of a Beams/

merchant vessel at this time. The head of floor timbers
any ship is very complex. There are many the plans for details.
structural elements that shape the these cardboard templates, reshape the
beakhead. Many elements for the laser cut pieces to fit properly.
Step 1 - Position the the 1/8” thick laser
beakhead are laser cut for you. However As done previously we will break down cut stem knee. See the photo above which
it is recommended that each one is test fit the construction of the beakhead into indi- shows the knee glued to the stem. Note
as a card board template first before shap- vidual steps. However, before you begin the slot made for the bowsprit gammoning.
ing them from the wood provided. Small the hawse holes should be drilled into the The knee serves a similar function as the
differences in the way you shaped the hull, bow. The hole for the bowsprit should keel does for the hull. It supports the floor
bow and stem can have an impact on how also be made now because it will be more timbers which lay across the knee in the
all of these beakhead elements fit together. difficult to do so when the beakhead is slots provided. On top of these will be a
The plans should be used as a guide. After completed. The hawse holes for the grating and planks that the sailors would
you make any minor modifications to anchor cables are 1/8” in diameter. They stand on while tending to the rigging.
20 are positioned 3/16” from the stem. See Frames were attached to the ends of these
timbers. Finally the outside of these Support knee Step 4
frames were planked over to provide pro-
tection from any storms and rough weath-
er. The entire beakhead is quite structural-
ly sound when completed. For our little Planking strip
model this construction process will be
simplified.

Step 2 – Rather than install the frames and

floor timbers first, we will add the planked
sides of the beakhead instead. This will
eliminate the precise measuring needed for
the internal structure. Remember this is a
very complex structure with many angles
and curves.

The two beakhead sides have been laser

cut for you. They are 1/32” thick. Only
the outboard side of these will need to be
planked using the 1/8” x 1/32’ strips pro-
vided. After both have been planked it is Remaining
easier to apply the molding (1/32” x 1/32”) frames and
and paint them before gluing them perma- beams
nently to the model. The photo of step 2
shows the sides of the beakhead in posi-
tion. Note how the molding applied to the
beakhead lines up with those already on
the hull. This should be studied carefully
from the plans and any adjustments made
before you glue them into place. The col-
ors and designs painted on the beak head
are described on the plans (except for the
molding strips which are all painted red).

Step 3 – With the sides of the beakhead in

position the floor timbers and frames are
addressed next. The five beams stretching
across the stem knee are cut to length and
inserted into the slots provided for them. Step 4 continued
Use the strips that are 1/16” x 3/32” for
these timbers. The frames (stanchions)
can be glued to the inboard sides of the Step 5
beak head by placing them on top of the
floor timbers. See the photo on the Grating and pin rail was
previous page. The top of each frame is placed in the beakhead.
rounded off as done with the other
stanchions of the model. The interior of
the beakhead will be left natural so it can
be stained to match the other portions of
the model.

Step 4 – Turn the model over so you can

work on the bottom of the beakhead. There
are two knees glued against the bow and
stem which strengthen the beakhead. They
are 1/16” thick and are laser cut for you.
Glue them into position as shown in the
photos above. A 1/32” x 1/8” planking
strip should also be glued along the edge
21
 The two photos above show you how to
construct a capstan from the wood sup-
plied in this kit. The first photograph
shows a wooden dowel (3/16” diameter)
cut to length. The bottom portion of the
dowel (capstan drum) was filed to a six-
sided shape. 4 small holes were drilled
into the top of the capstan drum. The crew
inserted two long wooden bars through
these holes and used them as handles to
turn the capstan. You don’t have to drill
your holes through the drum. Because it
will be obscured below deck, drilling the
holes part way through from both sides
will be sufficient. You can darken the
of the beakhead. They should be glued to (1/8” x 1/16”) on each side of the stem.
insides of these holes with a sharp pencil.
the underside of the beakhead beams (floor They lead from the bow to the grating on
The holes are square and not round. This
timbers). A few more stanchions and the beakhead. These simple planks made shape can be obtained with a sharp blade
beams will rest atop these to finish off the it easier for the sailors to reach the grating.
in your hobby knife.
initial beak head construction. See the
same photos. Extending and Completing the The drum was glued to the center of the
Quarter Deck… capstan base which is essentially a wooden
Step 5 - Last you will create and install the
disc cut from a 1/32” thick bass wood
grating inside the beak head. Use 1/16” x If you examine the plans you will see that
3/32” wood strips to create the frame for the quarter deck (also called the half deck) sheet. The lower whelps are glued around
the grating. Test fit a photo copy of the extends out over the upper deck. An open the base as shown in the photographs.
bulkhead called the “After Cubbridge They are 1/16” thick.
grating shown on the plans so you can
make any adjustments to its shape before Head” needs to be built followed by the Then a smaller wooden disc (washer like
you begin. Glue the grating into place placement of deck beams. The deck in appearance) is slid over the top of the
when it is finished. Finally a pin rail extension will rest on top of these. Before drum and rests on the lower whelps. This
stretches across the beak head where the you begin the following detailed steps pro- smaller disc is also shaped from a 1/32”
rigging is belayed. Drill six holes into a vided, the capstan should be made and thick bass wood sheet. The smaller upper
length of 1/32” x 3/32” wood strip. See glued onto the upper deck. A casting for whelps are then placed on top of this inline
the plans for details. The photo provided the capstan is included in this kit. It with the lower whelps. The capstan is
shows three belaying pins inserted into the should be painted to look like wood. completed and can be stained and glued to
holes along this rail. Do not glue the pins Another alternative would be to build one the base already built on deck.
into the holes at this time. They are only from scratch. Templates are located on the
shown to demonstrate how it will eventu- plans. Either way the capstan is partially The First step towards extending the quar-
ally be set up. There are also two planks obscured under the half deck and will not ter deck will be the completion of the
be openly visible. After Cubbridge Head. Several photos are
Photo #1 Photo #2

22
 provided to document the entire process.
Photo #3
Follow the steps outlined below and
examine the plans carefully for details.
Step 1 – Use a scrap piece of planking as a
straight edge. You can see how it was
used in Photo #1. It was placed on deck
against the aft side of the bulwark stan-
chions shown. It was used to draw a refer-
ence line in pencil on the deck which will
be used to line up the two bulkhead tem-
plates (J). This line should run port to
starboard across the entire deck. The refer-
ence line in the photo is shown as a dashed
black line.
Step 2 - Make two identical copies of
template J. Cut them out of the 1/32”
Photo #4 thick bass wood sheet provided. Only the
forward side of each template should be
planked using 1/32” x 1/8” strips. Stain
them and when dry glue them onto the
model. Glue them to the aft side of each
bulwark stanchion shown (use the refer-
ence line you made in step 1 to ensure
they are both aligned properly). See photo
#2. Put some glue on the bottom edge of
each piece as well. This will be more than
enough adhesive to secure them to your
model.
Step 3 - Now you can place the deck
beams onto the model. The false deck will
rest on top of these. The first beam (use a
Photo #6 1/16” x 3/32” strip) is glued to the face of
the great cabin bulk head. See photo # 3.
Leave 1/32” of space above the beam to
accept the false deck which you will add
later. It will rest on top of this beam and
end up level with the deck. Measure the
distance across the deck and cut the beam
slightly longer. As you will soon see,
placing the longer beam on the model will
force it to bend a little matching the cam-
ber of the deck. Test fit the beam in posi-
tion and make any tiny adjustments to its
length until you are satisfied it fits properly.
Photo #5
The second beam is handled the same way
but this time it will be glued to the front of
Photo #7 each template (J) you created. The beam
will stretch across the hull from template-
to-template. It should fit snugly between
the two bulwark stanchions. Once in posi-
tion, a second length of strip wood (1/16”
x 3/32”) is glued on the inside of the beam
to strengthen it as it spans across the two
templates. Take a look at all of the photos
as it shows the beams from a variety of
angles.

23 Step 4 – Two support knees are shown

under the beam that stretches across the
bulk head templates. These were made
Photo #8
using the plans as a guide to shape them.
Trace the design on a 1/32” thick bass
wood sheet and cut them free with a sharp
blade. Glue them into position. Two addi-
tions strips of 1/32” x 1/8” planking were
glued along the front edge of each bulk
head to simulate the columns you see in
photo #4

Step 5 – The false decking can now be

placed on top of the beams to complete the
extension of the half deck. They are laser
cut for you. It is easier to put the false
deck into position using two pieces. They
approximate the shape of each half need-
ed. Because there may be minor fluctua-
tions with the positions of the bulwark
stanchions you will have to notch them out
of template. Simply rest one half of the
decking on the beams and mark the loca-
tions for each of them. See photo #5.
Once both false deck pieces are glued into
place run a bead of glue down the seam
between each half. Draw the center line
down the length of the half deck in prepa-
ration for final planking. The positions for The grating is added to finish off the larger afterwards.
the two hatches should be transferred on to hatch. If the capstan ever needed to be
the deck as well. See photo # 6. replaced it would have been hoisted up The rudder is attached to the stern post
through this larger hatch. The smaller with hinges called “pintles and gudgeons”.
Step 6 – When you planked the other hatch in front of the mizzen mast does not These are the two halves of each hinge.
decks on the model you added the water- have a grating. Simple planks (cover The pintle being that which is attached to
way along the bulwarks after the planking boards) were fitted with handles instead. the rudder and the gudgeon is attached to
was finished. There were no bulwark stan- They are made using the eye bolts and the hull.
chions on the model yet. Planking around split rings supplied with the kit. Photo #8
the bulwark stanchions could be a difficult shows the quarter deck completed. Note The brass strip supplied with the kit can be
and tedious job. Therefore we will add the the waterway added to the front edge of used to make the gudgeons and pintles
waterway now in order to make planking The photos on the next page show you
the quarter deck. It is the last wood strip
the half deck easier. how to create the gudgeons and pintles.
(1/32” x 1/8”) needed to complete this step
The brass strip should be cut into 10
in the project.
This time you will use a planking strip that smaller lengths. See the plans for the
is 1/16” thick x 1/8” wide. This is twice approximate sizes. The 10 strips were then
Making the Rudder...
as thick as the waterway used earlier. bent around a block of wood that was the
Once the 1/32” thick deck planking butts same thickness as the rudder (1/8”). This
Take 3 lengths of the 1/8” x 1/8” strips
up against the waterway, the waterway created the final shape for our gudgeons
supplied and glue them together edge-to-
will appear to be the correct thickness. and pintles. They are identical except the
edge. Paste a photo copy of the rudder on
Take a length of this thicker planking and the top of it and cut it to shape with a pintles will have a small length of 22
notch out the bulwark stanchions the same sharp blade. See the photo below. gauge wire glued into the inside of them.
way you did for the false decking. Glue The photos (1A & 1B) on the next page
these into position. Do not add the water- show the rudder after it was cut to shape The rudder is painted white below the
way on the forward edge of the half deck. with a sharp #11 blade. It was sanded wales. Paint the first coat before gluing
This will be added after the deck is the pintles into position. The pintles are
planked. See photo #7.

Step 7 – Now you can plank the deck as

you did the others for the model. Create
and install the hatches first. Plank around
them. See the plans for any details. The
coaming or frame for each hatch was made
first using 1/8” x 1/16” Bass wood strips. 24
glued onto the rudder at a right angle to
the inside edge of the rudder. This angle
is clearly shown on the plans. Once in
position, slide the gudgeons behind the the
pins as shown in photo 1B. You can apply
a drop of glue if needed to keep them in Tiller 2
place. 1/8”x1/8”

The tiller was created by gluing a small

piece of 1/8” x 1/8” strip wood to the rud-
der first and adding another strip (1/16” x 1A Pintles
1/8”) on each side. Photo 2 shows a close
up of the the rudder tiller. It only has to 1B Gudgeons
be long enough to fit into the carved hole
above the stern post. 1/16”x1/8”

The finished assembly can be test fit on

the hull and the angles for each gudgeon
measured and marked. You will notice in
the photo below (right) that the two bot-
tom gudgeons are the only ones that
extend onto the hull. The top three are
only made long enough to cover the stern
post. Make any adjustments after test fit-
ting the assembly on the hull. When you
are satisfied, glue it to the hull being care-
ful to properly line up the gudgeons.
Keep them evenly spaced and angled and
don’t use too much glue. Paint the gud-
geons and pintles white and touch up the
rudder to finish this step. Simulated nail
heads can also be added to the gudgeons
and pintles. For the prototype model,
small droplets of white glue were added to
them with the tip of a small brush. When
dry they will maintain their shape. Paint
them white with a final coat of paint.

Deck Fittings and Details…

Up to this point in the project most of

your time has been spent working on the
outside of the hull. Enough of that work
is now completed and you can turn your
attention to the deck detailing. You can
proceed in any order you find comfort-
able, but for instructional purposes this
manual breaks down the process by exam-
ining each deck and the fittings they con-
tain.

The Poop Deck…

Rudder completed and
The Poop deck contains few deck fittings
mounted onto the hull.
and is a good place to start. There are two
Note the gudgeons and
kevels (one on each side of the deck).
pintles.
Castings are provided with the kit but 25
depending on your skill level, you may
want to replace them with some that are Poop Deck
scratch-built. The kevels would have been
made of wood and as such should be Pin Rail
painted to look like wood. Examine the
plans for their exact locations and glue Kevel
them to the bulwark stanchions. See the
photo provided.

In addition to the kevels you will notice a

pin rail in the same photo. It is located on Railing
the inboard side of the stern bulwarks. All
of the pin rails needed for the model are
made using the 1/16” x 3/32” Bass Wood
strips provided. Cut a strip to length and
drill the appropriate amount of holes as
shown on the plans.

The hand rail located on the edge of the

Poop deck is made using the same Bass
Wood strips. Take the measurements from
the plans and stain them match the rest of
the model. The replica based in Plymouth The knight is made using a length of 1/8” the knight but only go half the way
MA has the top of this rail painted white. x 1/8” strip wood. See the photo on the through. Then finish each hole from the
You can also paint it white, but this is a next page. The head of the knight can be back of the knight, drilling each of the
subjective decision and should be made carved with a sharp #11 blade in your three holes deep enough to meet those
based on your own personal tastes. hobby knife. Afterwards, the three drilled from the front. This method should
sheaves can be simulates in the following help ensure that the holes line up front-to-
The stairs/ladder leading down from the way. back. Repeat this process to create the
Poop deck can be made using the template three bottom holes that simulate the
shown on the plans. Take two small Three holes are drilled to represent the top sheaves. With the holes completed, use a
lengths of 1/16” x 1/8” strips and position of each sheave. They should be drilled sharp pencil to create the groove for each
straight through to the other side. You can sheave. You should be able to easily
them on top of this template. See the
start drilling each hole from the front of indent the soft wood between the top and
photo below. The template is used to
bottom holes of each sheave. This also
establish the shape for each side of the lad-
der. While positioned on the template,
mark the locations for each step on the
face of each wood strip. Using a small file
or your hobby knife, create the small slots
which are used to attach each step. The
1/32” x 1/8” strips are used to create the 5
steps. Cut them to length and glue them
into the slots you made. Examine the
same photos below. Only insert them into
one side of the ladder. Once dry, glue the
other side of the ladder into place.

The Half Deck…

Create and glue the four pin rails on the

Half deck See the plans for their exact
size and location. A knight head is posi-
tioned just in front of the mizzen mast.
Examine the plans and photos for details.
This knight will be used to secure the tie
for the lateen yard. A casting of the knight
is provided with the kit but you may opt to
build one from scratch. It is not difficult
at all, and if made from wood will
26
improve the overall look of your model.
colors the groove with pencil which fur-
ther enhances the appearance of an iron
Belfry without
sheave. Do this on both sides of the roof
knight.

Glue an eye bolt on one side just below

the three sheaves and a kit-supplied cleat
on the other. These should be painted
black. The photo above shows a complet-
ed knight next to the drawing on the plans.
You will notice on the plans that the knight
is raked aft. When you glue it onto the
model be sure to angle the knight to match
the rake of the Mizzen mast.
Knight
The belfry and railing at the edge of the
Half deck is built using 1/16” x 3/32” Note the Knight located on
strips. It is probably easier to glue the
uprights/stanchions for the rail into posi-
deck and the two pin rails
tion first. Then place the hand rail on top
of these. To give the rail some extra Belfry with roof
strength you might consider drilling a tiny completed
hole into the bottom of each stanchion.
Then insert a small length of wire into this
hole leaving just a small amount sticking
out. Drill a corresponding hole in the
deck where each stanchion will be glued.
This small wire will increase the strength
of the rail considerably once they are
pegged into the deck.

The bell supplied with the kit is attached

to the stock with an eyebolt. The loop on
top of the bell is slipped into the eyebolt.
Then the eyebolt is glued into a pre-drilled
hole in the stock. Place the bell into posi-
tion between the two uprights before you
glue the roof on the belfry. 1/32” x 1/8”
strips are used for the roof. The hand rail
and the roof can be painted white but as
Ladders from
mentioned earlier this is optional.
the half deck
The Upper Deck… completed
Two ladders lead to the upper deck from Making a log Eight Sided Pump Drum
the half deck. Make these using the tem- pump from
plate provided on the plans. You can make scratch
them the same way as you did for the lad-
der on the poop deck. There are also more
kevels and pin rails along the bulwarks. A
knight also needs to be made similar to the
one on the half deck. It is positioned aft of
the main mast and on the starboard side.
Check the plans for its exact location. The Spout
only new fittings that need an explanation
are the pumps. Cast pumps are supplied
Pump Handle
with the kit but as is true with everything
else, building them from scratch will look
Bracket
so much better. Should you decide to do
27
so there is a photo on the previous page
that shows a completed pump. That same Upper Deck
photo also shows the four pieces needed to
construct them.

Step 1. – Create the main cylinder for the

log pump. The cylinder is made using a
3/16” diameter dowel. Cut it to length and
sand it so it has eight flat sides. The pump
is octagonal. Create two of each pump
element at the same time. This will help
ensure that you have a matching pair when
you are finished. Drill a shallow hole in
the top of the “log” as shown in the photo.
Two metal bands are wrapped around the
cylinder to complete this piece. You can
use black tape cut into thin strips or heavy
paper to create them.

Step 2. – The bracket and spout for the Fore Castle Deck
pump are made from a scrap of 1/16” thick
sheet or planking strips. Use the plans to
trace their shape onto the wood. Drill a
tiny hole in the end of the spout and glue it
onto the pump drum. The bracket holds
the pump handle. Creating it is straight
forward however you can see in the photo
that a small slot is filed into the top of the
bracket. This slot will accept the pump
handle. The bracket is only 1/16” thick
and the photo can be misleading.
Carefully file the groove into the bracket
trying not to split the sides. Glue this
onto to drum when finished.

Step 3. – The pump handle is made using

a scrap piece of 1/32” thick planking. purposes. port side of the hull. You will need to
Sand it to shape and drill a tiny hole notch the molding on the hull so each cat-
through one end. An eye bolt is placed in Finishing up Some Small Details Before head fits properly before you glue them
this hole as shown. Drill a corresponding Starting the Masting and Rigging… into position.
hole in the pump drum to accept the other
end of this eye bolt. Drill it into the center Only a few details remain before you can Chesstrees – A chesstree is positioned on
of the pump drum. Lastly, place the han- start constructing the masts in preparation the outside of the hull and lines up with
dle in the groove of the bracket and at the for rigging your model. The chesstrees, the first bulwark stanchion on the upper
same time guide the eye bolt into the hole channels and catheads will complete the deck. See the same photo on the next
of the pump drum. Your pump is now exterior of the hull. page and check the plans for details. The
completed and can be glued onto your shape for the chesstrees are shown on the
model. Catheads – The catheads are made from plans but should be used only as a guide.
the 1/8” thick bass wood sheet provided. Minor differences from model-to-model
The photo on the top of this page shows Trace their shape from the plans using the will probably require some slight modifi-
the upper deck after all of the fittings have “Beakhead Bulkhead “drawing. The pro- cations be made. The chesstrees are 1/16”
been completed. file for each cathead is provided on that thick and are cut from the bass wood sheet
drawing. Create two simulated sheaves provided. Drill a small hole through them
The Forecastle Deck … through the end of each cathead. Use the as indicated on the plans. Glue them into
same technique as described for creating position on the model. The chesstrees for
See the photo above. You only need to the sheaves on the knight heads. Paint the the prototype model were left with a natu-
add a few pin rails and kevels as shown on catheads black and glue an eye bolt into ral finish however you may also paint
the plans. Don’t permanently glue any the forward side if each of them. See the them black.
belaying pins to these rails yet. They are plans for details. The photo on the next
only shown in the photos for scale page shows the cathead in position on the 28
 Chesstree

Cathead

Channels

Channels – Examine the plans carefully for the shape and loca- Paint the channels black. Two eye bolts are glued into pre-drilled
tions of the channels. You will notice that the outside edge of holes on top of the channels. Only the fore and main channels
each channel is shown with a 1/16” thick molding in place. This have these two eye bolts. They are used to secure the tackles for
molding will help secure the dead eyes and chain plates to each the lower fore and main masts. When completed, glue the chan-
channel. You should however, initially create them without this nels to the hull. The fore and main channels will sit on top of the
molding strip. The dead eyes and chain plates will be added upper wales. The mizzen channels will rest on the top edge of
later. For now trace the shape onto a 1/16” thick bass wood the molding shown on the plans. The photo above shows the
sheet and cut them out with a sharp blade. Use a small needle channels in position on the port side of the hull. You will also
file to make the small notches along the outside edge of each notice that several support knees are glued on top of each chan-
channel. You will slip the dead eyes into these notches later and nel. These knees are traced from the plans onto 1/32” thick
place the 1/16” molding across the front of them. This wont be planking strips (or a bass wood sheet). The mizzen channels
done until after the masts are in position and the rigging is under only have two support knees. They are also painted black.
way.

Ships Boat from Lifts Rail Knee

Thwart
Frame
Laser cut lifts
Molding
Add details after
5 carving the hull

3 Floor boards
Carve/sand interior
and exterior surface to
boat lines carefully!

4 Add keel after carving

1 Stern Bow

Align all tabs on lifts as you

glue them together 2

Cut off tabs and shape profile

29
The Ships Boat…
1. Lifts are glued together, align tabs.
The Mayflower carried a small boat. It would be a good idea to
build it before you start the masting and rigging. Rather than
supply a Britannia casting for the boat, seven lifts are laser cut for
a bread-and-butter hull. You will need to do some shaping and
carving and this can be challenging on a hull this small (about 2
½”). How thin can you carve the hull without breaking it? The
model’s appearance will be much improved by adding it.
However, depending on your skill level, you may decide not to
include one at all. In most cases the boat would have been towed
behind the ship. It was only stored on deck during long journeys.
One such as the noted trip across the atlantic for which the
Mayflower is best known.

You will see that each lift has two tabs on each end to ensure
proper alignment. Align these tabs as shown in the first photo
above. Be sure to mark the stern and bow ends to ensure each lift
faces the proper direction (you can see these marked as “B” for
the bow and “S” for the stern). Glue all of the lifts together using
a thin even coat of glue. Carve the outside of the hull first. Use
sand paper or carving chisels. Sand the corners of each lift down
to the intersection of the next lift. When the hull is smooth you 2. Shape the exterior and establish the
should have the correct shape. Next, cut off the tabs and draw correct profile
the correct profile for the boat. The second photo shows a pencil
line running from bow to stern. It follows the correct profile as
detailed on the plans. The sides of the boat curve downward
towards the center. The bow is slightly higher than the stern.
Shape the top of the boat to match this profile.

The third photo shows the hull after the inside was sanded. This
is the most difficult part of the operation. Try and make the hull
as thin as possible. One option would be to not glue lift #1 to the
hull until after the inside has been thinned down. It makes the
interior more accessible with your tools. There are many tech-
niques for creating a bread-and-butter hull. Another diagram is
also presented on the previous page to help you. Try to establish
a consistent thickness for the hull.

You can add many details to this little boat. The decision is ulti-
mately yours. In the fourth photo the keel and frames have been
glued to the boat’s interior. 1/32” x 1/32” strips were used. The 3. Shape the inside of the hull...
keel was run down the center first and the frames added after-
wards. Soaking these thin strips in some warm water will make
them very pliable. They should bend easily to the shapes needed.
Be sure to stain or paint the interior of the boat as you proceed.
It will be difficult to do so when the entire boat is finiahed. On
the prototype, t he entire boat was left natural and stained to
match the rest of the model. Photo #5 shows some interior
details of the boat. You can see the five floor boards placed on The hull should be as thin as possible.
the bottom of the boat. These strips were 1/16” x 1/32”. Then the
risers are glued into position. The riser is the strip of wood shown
glued across the frames. The thwarts (seats) will rest on top of
these risers. Basswood strips 1/32” x 1/16” are used for the risers.
Add the thwarts (seats) as shown in the same photo. The thwarts
are made from 1/32” x 1/8” strips.

Photo #6 shows some details added to the outside of the hull. If

you examine the plans you will notice that the top four planks on 30
this boat are “clinker” style. This means that each plank overlaps the edge of the plank below it.
This is quite a challenge to do on such a small hull but well worth the effort. Should you decide 4. Frames were added
not to place 3 or 4 clinker style planks (1/64” x 1/16”) on the boat; a simple molding can be
used instead. A 1/32” x 1/32’ strip can be glued across the hull just below the cap rail. A laser
cut cap rail is provided for you. It looks like a lift but without any tabs. It is 1/32” thick. This
rail is purposely left oversized. Once glued atop the ships frames sand the inside edge flush to
the frames. The outside of the rails is sanded so a small overlap can be seen outboard. The
keel, stem and stern post is also laser cut and can be attached to the boat now as well.

Finish up the boat by adding the oar locks (optional as they are quite tiny) and construct the rud-
der. It is also laser cut for your convenience. The rudder tiller is made using a length of 22
gauge black wire. Bend it to shape and glue it into a pre-drilled hole in the rudder. The rudder
will not be placed into the gudgeons and mounted on the hull. Instead, the rudder was removed
and stored inside of the boat while it was lashed down on deck. The gudgeons can be simulated
on the rudder post with some paper strips. The pintles on the rudder can be made the same way
with the addition of some small pins made from thin wire. You can also add some oars if you
wish to include even more details. A few coils of rope placed inside the boat can also add to its
overall appearance. See photo #7.

The final photo (#7) shows the boat lashed to the deck with all of its fittings completed. It is
lashed to the eye bolts glued along the main hatch on deck. Two cradles are laser cut and sup-
plied with the kit. Glue them on top of the main hatch frames as
shown in that same photo. Use the .018 diameter tan rigging line 5. Floor boards, risers and thwarts
to lash the boat down. Make two hooks out of 28 gauge black
wire or modify the eye bolts supplied with the kit. Use a needle
nosed pliers to bend the wire into shape. One end of each lashing
has a hook seized to it. A close up photo of a seized hook is also
shown below. Place the hook into the eye bolt on deck and run
the remaining free end of each lashing over the boat to the
opposite side of the deck. Seize it to its “partner” eye bolt on the
opposite side of the boat. Alternate the lashings so a hook is
visible on both sides of the model. Touch the knots and seizing
with a drop of super glue to secure them.

Seizing a hook 6. Clinker planking, cap rail, keel, stem and

to rigging line to stern post
lash the boat on
deck.

7.
31
Tenon Three chocks/stops for gommoning Completed Bowsprit

One cleat on the starboard side only one chock for stay collar on underside

Typical Gammoning on a model Gammoning

might be a good idea to practice on some scrap pieces of wood

Masting and Rigging first. Once the bowsprit is tapered and shaped, test fit it on the
model. As you can see on the plans, the bowsprit is positioned
on the starboard side of the stem. It is positioned at an angle.
The Bowsprit… While on the model, mark the locations for the gammoning
chocks and cleats. Compare them to the locations shown on the
plans. When satisfied with their placement create the chocks
To make the bowsprit, take the appropriate size dowel from
from 1/16” x 1/16” strip wood and glue them into position along
those supplied and taper it to match the plans. All of the masts
with the cleat. The cleat is painted black. Don’t forget the chock
and spars on the Mayflower are tapered. There are many ways
for the stay collar. It is not shown in the photo because it is on
to shape them. One method that works well would be to place
the underside of the bowsprit.
one end in the chuck of a portable hand drill. As the dowel
spins in the drill run some sand paper across it until the appro-
The photo above shows the bowsprit completed with the tenon at
priate shape is obtained. This is a quick way to shape your
its base. Also note how the outboard tip of the bowsprit was
masts and spars but stop periodically to check it against the
shaped as shown on the plans. Glue the bowsprit on the model
plans. It is very easy to quickly remove too much wood using
being careful to establish the correct rake.
this technique.
The bowsprit is secured to the stem knee with gammoning and
Also note that the bowsprit and lower masts can be “stepped”
should be done at this time. Use the black .021 rigging line sup-
several ways as well. They are inserted into pre drilled holes on
plied with the kit. The illustration above shows the method used
deck. Some modelers will not glue them permanently into the
for typical gammoning on a model. Run the line through the slot
deck. There may be a need to re-rig the model in the future and
on the stem knee around the bowsprit as shown. The bowsprit is
this will make that job much easier. It is entirely up to you.
now completed and you will return to it later to add more rigging
One method for securing the masts into the holes on deck would
details. But at this point you can move ahead and start building
be to drill those holes the same diameter as each mast. Then
the lower fore and main masts.
you can slip the masts into these holes. The angle of each hole
will have to be precise in order to obtain the correct mast angle
(rake). Another method (as used for the Mayflower prototype) Fore and Main Masts…
would be to carve a small tenon on the bottom of each mast and
bowsprit. The tenon is inserted into a smaller hole. This allevi- The fore and main masts are virtually identical except for their
ates the need to create a deep hole at precisely the right angle. size. Therefore both can be made at the same time which will
The mast will still have enough movement so the angle can be ensure that they look similar. The only difference is that the main
established. The only drawback is you will have to permanently mast has a chock used as a stop for the mizzen stay. Begin by
glue the masts into these holes because they are not as deep. selecting the appropriate sized dowels. Cut them to length and
Otherwise they would move around too much as you begin rig- taper them as described earlier. If you decided to use tenons for
ging the model. securing the masts into the deck then shape them at this time. See
the photos on the next page. The top of each mast will also need
You should decide which method to use before you begin shap- a tenon carved but this time it will be square. The mast cap will
ing the bowsprit.The tenon and other small details can be carved slide onto it. The mast cap has two holes. One is square and the
using a sharp #11 blade in your hobby knife. These features are other is round. The topmast will be inserted into the round hole.
not difficult to create. However, depending on your skill level it 32
 Tenons Fore Mast

Hounds/cheeks
Four cleats Wooldings

Main Mast
Chock (main only)

Wood acter to your model and are historically

accurate for the time period. They are also
Mast not difficult to create.
Hoops Start by creating the wooden hoops. Mark
their locations as shown on the plans. One
technique used to create them (as done on
the prototype) would be to use stiff card- Hounds/
board or a manila office folder. The mani- cheeks
la folder is ideal because it has a similar
Made from
color to the wood being used and takes
strips cut
stain well. Cut the folder into thin strips
from a manila
and stain them. It is important to stain
office folder
them first and allow them to dry. Wrap
With the tenons completed, the hounds them around the mast and secure them
and poles will be completed before they
should be shaped in preparation for assem- with a drop of super glue (CA). are stepped into position.
bly onto each mast. The hounds are cut
and shaped using the 1/8” thick sheet pro- Next, take the .021 black rigging line sup- Cross Trees (trestle trees)
vided. Do not drill the holes through the plied and wrap it between the hoops. You
and Tops…
hounds at this time. This will be easier to should be able to wrap the line around the
do once the hounds are glued onto the mast eight times. Use more super glue to
masts. The detailed photo above shows secure the line to the mast. See the photos The cross trees for the main and for masts
are made as shown in the photo below.
that the hounds are actually set into carved above for details. Four cleats are glued to
Use the appropriate sized strip wood to
notches on the mast. Use a sharp blade to each mast and painted black. Their place-
ment is clearly shown on the plans. To shape each timber. Carve or file small
carve these notches and glue the hounds
complete the lower masts don’t forget to notches into these timbers. Assemble
into position. Once dry, drill the holes
glue the “chock” to the main mast. The them and place them aside. You will need
through the hounds as shown in the same
fore mast will not have one. them shortly after the tops are completed.
photo. Start drilling them from one side
and only go half way through. Then finish
Please note that the masts will not be The tops supplied with the kit have been
the hole by drilling from the other side.
glued onto the model until they are com- pre-milled but still require some shaping
The ties for the lower yards will pass
pletely finished. The entire assembly and detailing. Photo #1 (on the next page)
through these holes. Sheaves were not
including the tops, trestle trees, topmasts shows the tops as supplied. The remaining
used. Instead the holes were curved as
photos are sequenced and follow the steps
shown on the plans. For our little model
this detail is optional and need not be
shown. A simple hole drilled straight Cross Trees (trestle trees)
through the hounds will be sufficient.

The lower masts were actually quite large.

They were not made in one piece. The
diameter would have been achieved by
building the thickness up using several
timbers. “Wooldings” were used to hold
these timbers together. They consisted of
rope wrapped around the mast with a
wooden hoop placed above and below
them. The wooldings will add great char-
33
 1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

6.
outlined below to complete them. Make a photocopy of the lenge however, the tops can be modified to more closely resemble
tops from the plans. In photo #2 you can see how they were those shown on the plans. The plans show a more accurate depic-
used to mark the squared opening on the bottom of each top. tion of the tops used on the Mayflower. In photo #3 you will see
With the shape of the opening marked in pencil, carve the open- that the pre-milled molding was sanded down and removed. Thin
ing with a sharp blade. A “starter” hole has been drilled to help strips of wood were cut and glued around the top. The positions
you with this process. were carefully marked with pencil to ensure equal spacing before
gluing. These strips are painted black along with the top and bot-
You will no doubt see that there are decorative moldings which tom rims.
have been pre-shaped around the outside of each top.
Depending on your skill level, or how much detail you intend to Photo #4 shows the cross trees glued into position. Before you do
add to your model; the tops can be used as is. Simply paint the so, double check that there is sufficient room on either side of the
molding black and skip the next step. If you are up to the chal- cross trees for the shrouds and rigging to pass through.

Mark in pencil the locations for the dead eyes along the rim of
each top. Use the plans as a guide to ensure their correct place-
ment. There are three dead eyes on each side of a top. Holes need
to be drilled through the rim at the angle shown in photo #5. The
dead eyes supplied with kit come in three sizes. You will need
twelve of the smaller dead eyes for this task. The dead eyes sup-
plied are round. A ship like the Mayflower had dead eyes that
were pear-shaped or triangular. Again, depending on your skill
level, the round dead eyes can be modified to more accurately
reflect the time period. Simply sand the dead eyes to a triangular
shape and use a small needle file to reestablish the groove around
the outside edges.

Photo #6 shows the sequence used to place the dead eyes into
position. Start by seizing a small eye into some .021 black rigging
line. Use some black sewing thread to create the seizing. A drop
34 of super glue will stiffen the eye. Before it dries you can also
ream the eye with a pointed dowel. This Square Main top mast sheave hole
helps to form the eye while the glue sets,
quickly forming its shape. Push the two
loose ends through the hole in the top as
shown on the left side of photo #6. The
seizing on the eye should be large enough Square Tenon
so it doesn’t pull through the hole in the
top’s rim. Then tie a dead eye in place
Fid Cap Flag staff
with the two loose ends. A drop of super
glue on the knot will be more than suffi- Ball
cient to hold it securely. Trim off the Cross tree Cap truck
excess with a sharp blade or nail clippers.
Finish it up by painting the dead eyes The fid is nothing more than a length of black. These trucks would have actually
black. 1/32” x 1/32” strip wood pushed through had small sheaves in them for the flag hal-
the hole. The fid prevents the topmast liards. The scale of our model makes them
The tops are now finished. If you want to from falling through the trestle trees. Drill difficult to create. Instead we will simply
take it even further, a series of knees or another hole to simulate a sheave close to tie the halliard to the staff. Test fit the
frames lined the inside of each top. This the tip of each topmast. This will be used staff to ensure that it fits through the round
detail is shown on the plans but is optional for the topsail yard tie. Last you will hole of the cap. The flag staff really
depending on you preference and skill carve another square tenon on the very tip should have a fid much like the ones you
level. The tops can now be glued onto the of the topmast. The cap for the flag staff created for the topmasts. Otherwise they
lower masts. The cross trees sit on top of will slip onto it. would simply fall through the trestle trees.
the hounds. Be careful before you glue But again, the scale of our model makes
them and make sure they are facing the Once the topmast is shaped, test its diame- creating them difficult (but not impossi-
right direction. The deadeyes are posi- ter to see if the cap will slide into position ble). If all of the elements fit together
tioned slightly aft of the center on each as shown in the same photo above. If well you can glue them into place perma-
top. Check the rigging plan to be sure. everything fits together you can perma- nently.
With the tops in position you can now glue nently glue them into place.
a cleat on each side of the masts inside the Mizzen Mast Assembly…
top. These are shown in the photo above. Flag Staffs…
Paint them black. These cleats will be After completing the main and fore masts,
used to belay the lifts for the topsail yards. The fore and main topmasts have flag the mizzen mast should come together
staffs. Small caps are laser cut for you. without any problems. The mizzen mast is
Main and Fore Topmasts… They are used the same way as the caps tapered like the others. Two cheeks or
for the lower masts. A smaller cross tree hounds are created from the 1/16” thick
The fore and main topmasts are also iden- will also need to be constructed. The basswood sheet provided. A small sheave
tical except for their length and size. The cross tree is slid into position on the top- hole is simulated through the mast
caps for both have been laser cut for you. mast. A small “lip” is visible on the plans between these cheeks. Construct the tres-
Begin by taking those caps to check that above the sheave for the topsail yard tie. tle tree and glue it into position on top of
the square opening will fit the square The cross tree will sit on top of this lip. the cheeks. Place the cap onto the squared
tenon you created on each lower mast. Place the cap into position on the square tenon you will carve on the tip of the
Don’t glue them into position yet. Then tenon of the topmast. mizzen mast. To finish it off, create the
take the appropriate sized dowels and taper flag staff with ball truck and glue it into
them to match the shapes of each topmast With these elements temporarily in posi- place. Note the round tenon carved at the
from the plans. Note that the heel of each tion, taper the appropriate sized dowel to heel of the mizzen mast. This will be used
topmast is squared off. See the photo create the flag staff. A ball truck is made to secure the mizzen mast onto the deck.
above. Through this squared portion you out of some scrap wood material and glued See the photo below. Note that the two
should drill a small hole to accept the on the tip of the staff. Paint the ball trucks cleats are not yet placed on the mast.
“fid”. The hole runs port to starboard.

Mizzen mast assembly

35
Stepped fore mast Main Stay Collar

ble, the rigging will be presented in the Mizzen Stay Collar – Rigged similar to
Stepping the Masts… order used to rig the prototype. the fore stay collar except a 3-hole (5mm)
deadeye is used. (.021 Blk) Once again
All of your mast assemblies are now com- Main Stay Collar – The main stay collar round deadeyes are supplied with the kit
pleted. It is time to place them on the (.028 black rigging line) was rigged first. and can be sanded to the more accurate tri-
hull. The rigging plans show the rake Run the line through the hole in the stem angular shape if desired.
(angle) of each mast. The fore mast is knee and through the open bulwarks. See
nearly vertical. The main mast leans aft the photo above. Seize the two ends Lower Shrouds…
very slightly. The mizzen mast leans together on the aft side of the fore mast.
slightly more. Before they are glued per- Then secure a deadeye to the collar. This The shrouds will be rigged next starting
manently onto the model you will need to deadeye is heart-shaped and has five holes. with those for the mizzen mast. The dead-
prepare the mast coats. The masts on The deadeyes supplied with the kit (7mm) eyes should be secured along the channel
Mayflower would have been held securely are round and only have 3 holes. If you first with “chain plates”. Black chain is
by forcing small wedges around its base are up to the challenge, they can be supplied for this purpose. A photo on the
where it travels through the deck. This replaced with the more accurate represen- next page shows the 5 steps used to pre-
group of wedges were wrapped in a can- tations shown on the plans. They are not pare the deadeyes. A tiny brass nail (sup-
vas-like cover and coated with tar. Hence difficult to make. Each deadeye should be plied with kit) is glued into a pre-drilled
the term mast coat. In actuality only the 1/16” thick. Use the plans as a guide for hole in a piece of scrap wood. The head
tarred cover was called the mast coat. their shape, size and hole configuration. of the nail is snipped off.
The photo shows a deadeye made using
Three small washer-like hoops have been the plans as a guide. Four of these will be Step 1- Take some 28 gauge black wire
laser cut (1/8” thick) for your use as mast needed. and crimp it around the brass nail as
coats. The top edge of each mast coat shown. A needle-nose pliers does the job
should be rounded off before using them. Fore Stay Collar – This is shown in the nicely.
They are painted black to simulate the photo below (.021 Blk). The line is seized
tarred cover. Slide them onto each mast around the bowsprit against the chock. Step 2- Bend the two ends back while
before you glue them into position. The Another 5-hole deadeye is seized to it as holding the wire crimped with the pliers.
photo above shows the fore mast on the shown. Slide the wire off of the nail for the next
model with its mast coat in position.
Fore Stay Collar Mizzen
Standing Rigging Stay
Collar
Lower Stay Collars…

Before you start rigging the model some

careful planning is required. You must
think several steps ahead to make sure you
don’t “rig yourself into a corner”. It can
be quite difficult navigating your fingers
and rigging tools through a maze of rig-
ging. To make this as systematic as possi- 36
 step. You will need six of these for the
mizzen shrouds.

Step 3 - Slide a length of chain (about ¾”

long) into position.

Step 4 – Round deadeyes are supplied but

can be reshaped as mentioned earlier. Use
the smaller 3mm deadeyes provided. Bend
the ends of the wire around the top of the
deadeye as shown. A drop of super glue
will hold the dead eye securely in posi-
tion. Set it aside until the glue dries.

Step 5 - Snip off the excess wire and clean

up the ends with some sandpaper or files.
Paint the deadeyes black.

You can now place the deadeyes on the

mizzen channels. Place them into the
grooves you created along the edge of the
channel. Let the chains dangle below the
channel. Take a wood strip 1/16” x 1/16”
and glue it along the outside edge of the
channel to hold them in place. Paint it
black. See the photos provided on the next
page. If you examine the plan for the
standing rigging you will notice how the
chain plates follow the angle of the
shrouds they secure. To establish the cor-
rect angle an extra long temporary shroud
is seized around the mast head. Hold this
shroud in front of each deadeye and mark
the spot on the hull (below the channel)

Stropping the deadeyes

with 28 gauge wire and
chain.

Step 1.

Step 2.
Step 3. Step 4. Step 5.

37
 where the chain should be pinned. Make
sure the shroud is held tightly so the cor-
rect angle is easily established.

Use the brass nails supplied to pin the

chains to the sides of the hull (pre-dill all
of the holes first). Cut the chains to length
and pin them to the hull with super glue.
See the two photos above.

The shrouds are rigged on the model in

pairs. Start with the foremost pair of
shrouds on the starboard side. Alternate
the next pair on the port side. To create a
pair of shrouds simply seize a generous
length of .028 black rigging line around
2. the mast head. Each shroud has a deadeye
seized (“turned in” as its called) to its end
1. which is secured to the deadeye on the
channel with a lanyard between them. See
the illustration provided below. The
Mizzen upper and lower deadeyes should be
Stay spaced the same distance apart for all of
Collar the shrouds. Failing to do so would hurt
the overall appearance of the model. You
can create a deadeye claw such as the one
Eye and shown in the illustration to help you space
mouse Shrouds them. With the claw in position wrap the
shroud around the upper deadeye and seize
it into position as shown. Then reeve the
lanyard between the deadeyes to finish rig-
ging the shroud. Use .008 tan rigging line
for the lanyard.

If an odd number of shrouds are present as

is the case here (3 on each side for the
mizzen mast), only create one shroud as
you are seizing it around the masthead
instead of creating a pair. This single
shroud should always be the aft-most
shroud on each side of a given mast. This
will also be the case while rigging the
shrouds for the main and fore masts. The
ratlines need to be rigged on all of the
shrouds and you could do that for those on
the mizzen mast now. You may however
choose to wait until all of the shrouds are
completed and rig all of the ratlines at the
same time. This will ensure that they are
evenly spaced and consistent.

Mizzen stay…

You might have thought it logical to rig

the shrouds on the main mast next. But
doing so would make it harder to tackle
the mizzen stay. You would have to reach
around the shrouds to set up the lanyard
between the deadeyes of the stay. It would
be a lot easier to rig the stay first without
any obstacles. 38
The stay (.028 Blk) is secured around the mizzen masthead on top of
the shrouds you just completed. Seize an eye on the end of the stay.
Main mast tackles
The other end of the stay is run through the eye and synched up like a (port and starboard)
noose around the mast head. To prevent the noose from closing up
completely around the masthead, a lump of rigging line (a “mouse”)
was weaved onto the stay. Examine the illustrations provided above
which show several techniques used to create a mouse. 1/8”
single
The loose end of the stay is rigged just like the shrouds. Another block
deadeye is seized to the end of the stay which is secured to the dead-
eye on the main mast with a lanyard. See the photos provided on the
previous page including the detailed photo of the mizzen stay collar.
Fiddle Block
Main Tackles... (Substitute 1/8”
double block)
With the mizzen stay completed you can now rig the Main Tackles
before turning your attention to the main shrouds. The main tackles
consist of three parts, the pendant, a runner and a fall. There will be
two main tackles. One is rigged on the port side and the other on the
starboard side. See the photo provided.

-Pendant – is seized around the mast head like the shrouds (.021
BLK). A 1/8” single block is seized to the end of the pendant.

- Runner – has a hook seized to its end which is secured to the fore-
most eye bolt on each main channel (.021 Tan). The runner is then
taken through the pendant block where a fiddle block is stropped to its
end. The fiddle block needs to be made from scratch or substituted
with a 1/8” double block.

- Falls – seized to a 3/32” single block that is hooked to the aft-most

eye bolt on the main channel (.018 Tan). The fall is run through the
fiddle block and taken back through the single block hooked on the
channel. Then it runs back through the fiddle block and is belayed to
the pin rail on the half deck. Finish it off by adding a rope coil over
the belaying pin.

Main Shrouds... 3/32”

hooked
The shrouds for the main mast can be set up exactly as described for single
the mizzen shrouds. There will be 7 shrouds per side and the larger block
5mm deadeyes are used. These are supplied round but can be
reshaped to more accurately reflect the triangular deadeyes used
during this period.

39
 Main Main stay and main mast shrouds
stay collar

Main stay
mouse

Main Stay...
Fore Shrouds...
When the main shrouds are finished you can rig the main stay. It
is secured to the main stay collar with a lanyard and deadeye. It These shrouds are rigged like the mizzen and main shrouds.
is done the same way as the mizzen stay only this time a 5-hole There are five per side and the 5mm deadeyes are used.
dead eye is used. This will need to be made from scratch or sub-
stituted with the round (7mm) 3-hole deadeye supplied with the Fore stay...
kit. The lanyard is .018 tan rigging line. The stay is set up with
This is rigged like the main stay. Use .040 black rigging line for
a mouse and .040 black rigging line should be used. See the
the stay and set it up with a mouse around the fore masthead. A
photo provided.
5-hole deadeye secures it to the bowsprit (fore stay collar) with a
lanyard (.018 tan).
Fore Tackles...

These tackles are rigged the same as the main tackles only the
fall is hooked to the fore-most eyebolt on the channel. 40
Futtock Shrouds…

The futtock shrouds can be rigged next. Each shroud (.021 black) has a
hook seized onto one end. This hook is secured to the eyes located
beneath the rim of the top. These are the eyes you formed for each of the
three deadeyes on both sides of the top. The futtock shrouds are taken
down to the main shrouds and wrapped around the futtock pole and then
seized to the main shroud itself. See the drawing provided (right).

The futtock poles should be lashed to the main shrouds first. They are
1/32” thick. Lash them to all of the main shrouds with some sewing
Futtock pole
thread. Follow the plans for their distance from the top. Paint the futtock
poles black before rigging the futtock shrouds as described above. You
can rig the futtock shrouds on both the fore and main masts at this time.
Main topmast
Main Topmast Tackles…
tackle pendant
(.021 blk)
These tackles consist of a pendant and a runner. They are rigged port and
starboard. The pendant (.021 black) is seized around the topmast-head
and has a 3/32” single block seized to its end. The runner (.018 tan) is
secured around the bottom of the aft-most deadeye (or futtock plate). It is
run through the pendant block and belayed to the fore-most futtock plate.
Finish this off by lashing a rope coil to this belaying point. See the photo
provided (right). 3/32” single block

Main Topmast Shrouds…

These (.021 black) are rigged just like the main shrouds. See the photo on
the next page.
Main topmast
Main Topmast Stay… tackle falls
(.018 tan)
This stay (.028 black) is rigged very much like the other stays. Only this
time the collar is set up in the fore top. Use two 5mm three-hole deadeyes
to create the collar. See the detailed close up of this stay collar in the
photo on the next page.

Fore Topmast Tackles…

The fore topmast tackles are rigged just like those on the main topmast.
Only this time the belaying points for the runners are reversed. Place a
rope coil on the aft-most futtock plate.

Fore Topmast Shrouds…

Same as the main topmast shrouds.

Fore Topmast Stay…

The fore topmast stay (.028 black) is also rigged with a mouse around the
masthead. However no stay collar is used to secure it to the bowsprit.
Instead, a pendant and runner are used. A 1/8” single block is seized to
the end of the stay. Check the plans for details. The pendant (.021 tan) is
seized to the tip of the bowsprit and run through the single block of the Futtock
stay. This pendant has a 3/32” single block seized to its end. A runner is shrouds
seized to the bowsprit just aft of where the pendant was seized. Reeve the (.021 blk)
runner through the pendant block and through another lead block (3/32”
single) which has been seized to the bowsprit itself. It is belayed to the Futtock pole
cleat on the starboard side of the bowsprit just behind the gammoning.
Finish it off with a rope coil. See the photos provided on the next page.
41
 mouse

Main topmast
stay collar

Fore topmast
tackles Main topmast
stay (.028 blk)

Fore topmast stay (.028 blk)

1/8” single block

Pendant (.021 tan)

Belaying the fore
topmast runner

3/32” single
blocks

Rigging the fore Runner (.018 tan)

topmast stay
42
 Ratlines...

Rig the ratlines on all of the shrouds as shown in the drawing to

the left. Check the plans for the appropriate distance between
them (approx. 3/16”)(.008 BLK).

Garnet Tackle...

The Garnet tackle consists of a pendant, a runner and the falls.

The pendant (.021 BLK) is hitched around the main masthead
above the shrouds and taken through the main stay loop. It is
seized to the main stay over the main hatch with a 1/8” single
block at its end. The runner (.018 Tan) has a hook seized to its
end which is hooked forward of the 5-hole deadeye on the stay
collar (see the photo below). Reeve it through the pendant block

Fiddle and
1/8” single
block on
Garnet Tackle

Ratlines
completed
Garnet Tackle

fiddle
block

43
and seize a fiddle block to its end as shown on the plans and in positioned just below the tops and can be seen on the standing
the photo provided on the previous page. Note that the fiddle rigging plan.
block can be made from scratch or you can substitute a 1/8” dou-
ble block. The fall is secured to an eyebolt on deck. Take the fall and run it
through the pendant block and bring it back down to the deck.
The falls (.008 Tan) have a 1/8” single block w/hook seized to The loose end is wrapped twice around the bulwark stanchion
one end. It is also hooked below the dead eye on the main stay shown on the belaying plan (secure with some super glue) and
collar. The fall runs through the fiddle block and is secured it to finish it off with a rope coil on deck. It is easier to seize the end
the stay collar. Finish it off with a rope coil. of the fall to the eyebolt before you glue it into a pre-drilled hole
on deck.
Topmast Backstays...
Mizzen Yard (Lateen)...
There are a pair of backstays (port and starboard) which can now
be rigged on the model. The fore and main topmasts will both Use the appropriate sized dowel for the lateen yard. Taper it after
have a pair of backstays and they will be rigged identically. Each cutting it to the length shown on the plans. One end of the yard
backstay consists of a pendant (.021 BLK) and a fall (.021 Tan). has an eyebolt glued into a pre-drilled hole. Seize two 3/32” sin-
The pendant is seized around the topmast cross trees and has a gle blocks to this eyebolt. The lateen yard can now be rigged
1/8” single block seized to its other end. These blocks are onto the model. The first rigging line that should be completed
is the “Tie”.

Lift pendant

Lateen parral

Lift falls

Lift runner
Lift
crane
Halliard for the lateen tie

Bowlines

44
The tie (.021 BLK) is used to raise and lower the yard to the The lifts are the last lines rigged on the lateen yard. They consist
deck. Secure the tie around the yard as shown on the rigging of the pendant (.028 BLK), the runner (.021 Tan), the falls (.018
plan. The tie should be run through the hole drilled beneath the Tan) and the crane lines (.018 Tan). They were rigged in that
cross tree of the mizzen mast. A 1/8” double block should be order on the prototype. The pendant is seized around the main
seized to the loose end of the tie. See the photo on the previous topmast cross trees. A 1/8” single block is seized to the other
page. The double block is located about 1/2” above the knight. end. The runner is created by seizing a 1/8” single block on one
A halliard (.008 Tan) is seized to the eyebolt on the side of the end of the line. The runner is run through the pendant block and
knight and run through the doble block. After you reeve it brought down through another 3/32” single block seized to the
through the last hole of the double block, belay the running end mizzen cross trees. The loose end of the runner is then belayed
of the halliard to the cleat on the opposite side of the knight. to the cleat on the fore side of the mizzen mast. Finish it off with
Finish it off with a rope coil. a rope coil.

Once the tie is completed and the lateen yard is held loosely in The falls are created by seizing one 3/32” single block on the end
position, the parral can be rigged. The parral for the lateen yard of the rigging line. The other end is run through the single block
is shown on the plans It consists of four ribs separated by tiny of the runner and another 3/32” single block is seized to the other
beads (trucks). The parral doesnt wrap around the lateen yard. end.
Instead it goes around the tie and mizzen mast. It holds the tie
snug against the mast to control the raising and lowering of the Finally, the crane line was seized to the tip of the lateen yard.
lateen yard. See the illustration on the previous page. The run- The loose end is run through the first single block of the falls.
ning end is reeved through the single block of the parral and From there it is run through a single block seized to the lateen
belayed to the cleat on the aft side of the mizzen mast. Finish it yard and taken back through the second block of the falls. The
off with a rope coil. loose end was seized to the yard to complete the rigging of the
The bowlines are used to adjust the angle of the lateen yard. lateen lifts.
There are two bowlines (port and starboard). Seize the end of a
generous length of (.008 Tan) rigging line to the aft-most main Main Yard …
shroud. See the rigging plans for the exact location. Run this
line through one of the single blocks seized on the end of the The main yard and the main topsail yard can be tapered from the
lateen yard. Take the loose end back through another 3/32” sin- appropriate sized dowels. It will be easier to seize any blocks to
gle block secured to the shroud just below the standing end. the yards before you rig them on the model. The plans clearly
From here the bowline is belayed to a pin rail along the bul- show all of the blocks for the lifts, sheets and brace pendants.
warks. Finish it off with a rope coil. Repeat this process for the You can see the completed yards in the photo below. Stain the
other bowline on the opposite side of the model. yards prior to rigging the blocks to them.

Main Topsail Yard

Main Yard

A. Ramhead block on the full scale

A B C Mayflower replica. Plymouth MA

B. Making a ramhead block from scratch

using a strip of wood. Metal reinforcing
bands simulated using paper.

C.How the tie was rigged on ships during this

time period.

45
 Main yard braces
Topsail lifts

Main yard lifts

Topsail sheets

The main yard was raised and lowered on the opposite side of the mast (hounds). The model is going to be finished without
using ties similar to the lateen yard. This From here the loose end of the tie is sails. Even so, the topsail sheets should
time they are doubled and have a secured to the yard just as you did when still be rigged. To do this, tie a double
ramshead block used for the halyard. The starting this procedure. A drop of glue canknot on the end of some .018 tan rigging
ramshead block is supplied as a metal be applied to the tie (where it passes line. Reeve this line through the larger
casting. This block should be painted to through the hounds) to secure the yard at block seized to the end of the yard arm.
look like wood. See the photos on the its proper position below the main top. The knot will act as a stopper. From here,
previous page. The ramshead block was Note that the ramshead block should also run the loose end through the block
quite large and was reinforced with iron be about ½” from the knight. You will be secured under the main yard. Belay this to
straps. These straps can be painted onto rigging the halyard between them in the the appropriate cleat on the mast (check
the block with black paint. Another alter- next step. See the detailed photos above. the belaying plan for details). Finish it off
native would be to create the ramshead with a rope coil. Once completed, the
block from scratch using a strip of wood. The halyard is seized to the eyebolt on the sheets will hold the main yard in position
You only need two of these blocks for side of the knight. From here you can so you can focus on the lifts.
your model and creating them from wood reeve it through the sheaves of the
will make your model look that much ramshead block. Secure the line to the The lifts (.018 Tan) are seized to the loop of
better. cleat on the opposite side of the knight and the main stay. From here, the lose end is
finish it off with a rope coil. run through the remaining block on the end
Begin by securing one end of the tie (.028 of the main yard. It is taken through the
BLK) to the yard as shown on the plans. The parral for the main yard is shown on 3/32” single block hanging below the top.
Run the other end through the hole on the the plans. It has 5 ribs separated by This block is seized to an eyebolt glued into
mast just below the top. Place the trucks. The parral can be rigged to the a pre-drilled hole under the top. Finally it
ramshead block onto the rigging line and yard at this time which will hold it firmly is brought down to the appropriate mast
then take the line back up through the hole against the main mast. cleat and finished off with a rope coil. 46
The braces (.018 Tan) for the main yard the single blocks of the brace pendants. Secure the tie (.028 BLK) and ramshead
are seized to an eyebolt on the outside of The loose end is taken back through a sin- block to the fore yard as you did with the
the hull. See the detailed photo on the gle block seized to the fore-most mizzen main yard. Place the yard in the correct
previous page. They are run through the shrouds. Then it is led through another position below the top and secure it with a
single block of the brace pendant and single block seized to the after-most main drop of super glue at the hounds (the holes
taken back through another single block shrouds (check the rigging plan for their you drilled through them). The ramshead
seized to a bulwark stanchion. From here exact locations). The running end of the block should be about ½” above the deck
the brace is taken inboard and belayed to brace is then belayed to a pin rail along the
as well. This time you wont be rigging the
the kevel on the poop deck bulwarks. half deck bulwarks. Finish it off with a halyard between the ramshead block and a
Finish it off with a rope coil. rope coil. knight. The knight was located below the
forecastle deck. You will be simulating
Main Topsail Yard… The lifts (.008 Tan) for the main topsail this rigging by hooking a double block
yard are seized to the topmast above the onto the eye bolt glued on the bottom of
The topsail yards were also raised and crosstrees. From here they are led through the hatch. See the plans for a detailed
lowered using a tie. The tie was rigged the single blocks on the yard and back up drawing of this. The easiest way to
with a series of runners and halyards. to another 3/32” single block seized to the accomplish this task would be to create
First, the tie (.028 BLK) is seized to the topmast shrouds. The loose end can be and glue a hook into the bottom of a 1/8”
center of the yard as shown on the plans. belayed to the cleat inside the main top. double block. You can paint the block
Then it is taken through the hole made Finish it off with a rope coil. black so it is less visible in the hatch.
below the cross tree of the topmast. A Seize some .008 tan rigging line to the
1/8” single block is seized to the loose end Fore Yard… double block. Set up the halyard by reev-
of the tie. Note: Because the model will ing it through the ramshead block before
be rigged without sails the topsail yards The fore yard and fore topsail yard can be you attempt to hook it to the eye bolt. The
should be rigged in their lowered position. tapered as you did for the main yards. halyard will actually be a working tackle.
This would be approximately a ½” above Attach all of the blocks to the yards Now you can hook it to the eye bolt on the
the cap. See the photos on the previous including the brace pendants. These yards bottom of the hatch. This is a little tricky
page. are rigged to model very much like those but can be done by using a set of tweezers
on the main mast. There are only a few (those with a bent tip, see the photo on the
The runner for the tie (.018 Tan) is seized differences. previous page). Once you hook the block,
to an eyebolt on the half deck (port side). pull the running end of the halyard to
From here it is taken up through the single
block of the tie. Now you can seize anoth-
er 1/8” single block to the other end of the
runner. It is easier to seize the runner to
the eyebolt before you glue that eyebolt
into the deck. Check the belaying plan for
its exact location.

Finally, the halyard (.008 Tan) is seized to

an eyebolt on the opposite side of the half
deck. It is located on the starboard side
along the bulwarks. The halyard is run
through the single block of the runner and
belayed to the pin rail. Finish it off with a
rope coil. Again, it is probably easier to
seize the halyard to the eyebolt before you
glue it into a pre-drilled hole along the
bulwarks.

A parral with ribs and trucks will not be

used for the topsail yards. Instead a sim-
ple sling will be created as shown on the
plans. Rig the sling now so the topsail
yard will be held securely against the top-
mast. This will make it easier to rig the
braces and lifts.

The braces (.008 Tan) for the main topsail

yard are first seized to the mizzen mast Bent tip tweezers
head. From there they are taken through
 48 to yard as called for on the plans. The
yard can then be secured to the bowsprit
with a simple sling. Create the same sim-
Rigging the ple sling that you made for the topsail
yards. The spritsail yard should also be
fore yard and
placed in the lowered position as it has no
fore topmast sails set.
yards
The halyard is rigged by seizing some
.008 tan rigging line to a 3/32” single
block. This block is rigged to the bowsprit
(where the forestay collar is located). See
the photo above. Then take the loose end
and run it through the single block seized
to the center of the spritsail yard. From
here it is brought back through that single
block on the bowsprit and belayed to the
pin rail in the beakhead. Finish it off with
a rope coil.

Rig the lifts (.008 Tan) for the spritsail

yard by seizing a generous length of line
to the tip of the bowsprit. Run the other
end through the 3/32” single block on the
forward side of the yard arms. Take it
back up through another 3/32” single
block seized to the bowsprit and belay it to
the pin rail on the forecastle. See the
photo on the next page and the plans for
the exact locations.

tighten it up. The tightened halyard can be Fore Topsail Yard… The braces (.008 Tan) are hitched to the
made permanent by placing a drop of forestay. Run the loose end through the
super glue on the sheaves of the ramshead The tie is rigged just like it was for the brace pendant blocks. From here they are
block. The running end of the halyard can main topsail yard. It will also have a run- taken back up to the forestay where they
be trimmed to the proper length and ner and a halyard. The fore topsail yard are run through another single block seized
pushed into the hatch to hide it. The photo should also be placed in its lowered posi- about ¼” below the standing end. Lastly,
on the previous page shows the ramshead tion. The only difference here is the run- they are reeved through another single
block in position. ner and halyard are belayed on the oppo- block on the beakhead bulwarks. These
site sides of the ship than those for the 3/32” blocks are seized to an eye bolt that
The parral with ribs and trucks is set up main topsail yard. Check the belaying is glued into the top of the bulwarks.
the same way as it was for the main yard. plan for details. Belay the braces to the pin rail in the beak
head. Finish them off with a rope coil.
The topsail sheets (.018 Tan) are rigged The sling (.018 Black) can be created just
just like those for the main yard. Belay like the one used on the main topsail yard. The garnets (.008 Tan) are rigged just like
them to the appropriate mast cleats and The braces (.008 Tan) are rigged just like the braces.
finish them off with a rope coil. those on the fore yard. They are secured
to the main topmast stay this time and are Boomkin/Outrigger...
The braces (.018 Tan) are seized to the belayed to the same pin rack on forecastle
main stay and run through the brace pen- deck rail. Finish them off with a rope coil. The last yard that you should place on the
dant blocks. From here they are taken model is the boomkin. It is positioned
back up through 3/32” single blocks on the The lifts (.008 Tan) are rigged just like outboard at the stern. The boomkin was
main stay and belayed to the pin rack on those on the main topsail yard. They are used to rig the sheet for the lateen sail.
the forecastle rail. Finish them off with a belayed to cleats in the fore top. Finish The model was built without sails but this
rope coil. them off with a rope coil. yard should be rigged none the less.

The lifts (.018 Tan) are rigged just like The Spritsail Yard… Cut the appropriate wooden dowel to
those for main yard. Belay them to the length and taper it as shown on the plans.
appropriate mast cleats and finish them off Taper the appropriate sized dowel to make You may have to cut a notch in the mold-
with a rope coil. the spritsail yard. Seize all of the blocks ing that runs across the stern. The yard
 Lifts Halyard

Garne ts

Braces

Spritsail Yard Rigging

can be glued into position as shown in the the model accidentally. look like wood. The Anchor stock has
photo below. To help secure this yard on several iron straps which should be painted
the model a short length of wire can be The Anchors... black as well. As mentioned before the
inserted into the end of the yard. Keep a stock would look much better if you made
small piece of that wire sticking out as a The anchors and anchor stock are provided it from scratch. The photo below shows
peg which you will insert into a hole as castings in the kit. Simply clean them how the anchor stock was fashioned from
drilled into the planking. This will help up and paint them. The anchors are black basswood strips 1/16” thick. Black tape
keep the boomkin from being knocked off and the anchor stock should be painted to was cut into thin strips and used to simu-

Outrigger/
Boomkin 49
 Anchor rigged on the model

late the iron bands. The wood stocks can forecastle deck. Finish it off with a rope
be treenailed as shown in the photo above coil.
for even greater detail. Create a ring from
black wire and use it for the anchor ring. The last step in building your model of the
Wrap the wire around a drill bit that is the Mayflower is to rig the flags. Place a tiny
diameter you need. Cut off the excess hole on the inside corners of the flag.
with some wire snips and place it on the These will be used to tie the flags to the
anchor. Take some .040 Tan rigging line flag halyard. The flag halyard is simply
and use it for the anchor cable. Secure it tied around the top of the mast just under
on the anchor ring as shown on the plans. the ball truck. Normally they would be
Leave a generous length of this anchor run through small sheaves in the ball truck
cable hanging free so you can insert it into itself. Our little model is too small to cre-
the hawse holes later. ate these sheaves at scale so gluing the
halyard as shown in the photo is appropri-
The anchors are lashed on the channels to ate. Belay the loose ends of the halyard
a deadeye. If you do this first the anchor anywhere on deck which appears feasible.
will be held in position so it is easier com-
plete the rigging. With the anchors in Any pin rail along the bulwark will suffice
position you should be able to glue the end as long as the lines dont interfere with any
of the anchor cables into the hawse holes. of the rigging already in place. The flags
Try to shape them with a natural swag as are placed on the main and fore masts.
shown in the photo above. With the halyards rigged and finished off
with some rope coils you can now tie your
Take a 1/8” double block and seize a hook flags to the halyards. Try to shape your
to it. See the same photo. Then seize flags by wrapping them around a drill bit
some .018 tan rigging line to the eyebolt while they are wet. They should appear
on the side of the cathead. Reeve it like they are waving gracefully in the
throught the double block and the sheaves wind.
of the cathead creating a tackle. Pull this
tackle tight as you are hooking the block CONGRATULATIONS!!!
onto the anchor ring. With everything in
position, apply a drop of glue to the Your model is now completed.
sheave of the double block to keep it ten-
sioned. Take the loose end of the tackle
inboard and belay it to the kevel on the 50
The plans for this Mayflower model are based on The Mayflower sailed for the new world on it
the latest research available and the work by historical voyage in September 1620. The
noted Naval Architect William A. Baker. Mr. Pilgrims came to America seeking religious free-
Baker designed the replica in 1956 which dom during the reign of King James I. It was
now resides as a tourist attraction in winter when they arrived at Plymouth
Plymouth. Information about the Massachusetts and they struggled to
Mayflower is scarce and no plans establish a permanent colony. They
exist showing her actual were successful and celebrated the first
appearance. The Thanksgiving which has grown to
research by William become a national American holiday.
Baker is the most It is perhaps the story of these brave men,
comprehensive work women and children that has made the
ever compiled on the Mayflower such an important ship.
subject. It can be It has always been a popular subject
found in his book for modeling enthusiasts.
published in 1983
called “The
Mayflower and
Other Colonial
Vessels”.