CLOTHING REVIEWER needle, thread, cloth, and sewing shears.

More
complex project may only need a few more
MODULE 1
simple tools to get job done, but there are an ever-
Lesson 1: Sewing growing variety of helpful sewing aids available.
• In addition to sewing shears, rotary cutters maybe
Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using used for cutting fabric, usually used with a cutting
stitches made with a needle and thread. Sewign is one of mat to protect other surface from being damage.
the oldest of the textile art, arising the Paleolithic era. Seam rippers are used to removed mistakes
Before the invention of spinning yarn or weaving fabric, stitches. Special marking pens and chalk are used
archeologists believe Stone Age people across Europe and to mark the fabric as a guide to construction.
Asia sewed fur and skin clothing using bone, antler or • Pressing and ironing are an essential part of many
ivory needles and “thread” made of various animal body sewing project and require additional tools. A
parts including sinew, catgut, and viens. steam iron is used to press seams and garments,
For thousands of years, all sewing was done by hand. The and a variety of pressing aids such as seam roll or
invention of the sewing machine in th 19th century and tailor’s ham are used to aid in shaping a garment.
the rise of the computerization in the 20th century led to A pressing cloth maybe used to protect the fabric
mass production and export of sewn objects, but hand from damage.
sewing is still practices around the worl. Fine hand sewing • Sewing machines are now made for a broad range
is characteristic of high-quality tailoring, haute culture of specialist sewing purposed. Such as quilting
fashion, and custom dressmaking, and is pursued by both machines, computerize machines for embroidery,
textile and hobbyists as a means of creative expression. and sergers for finishing raw edges of fabric.
• A wide variety of presser foot attachments are
The first known use of the word sewing was in the 14 th available for many sewing machines—feet exist
century. to help with hemming, pin tucks, attaching
Garment Construction cording, assembling patchwork, quilting, and a
variety of other functions
Pattern and Fitting Garment construction is usually
guided by a pattern. A pattern can be quite simple; some Elements of Garment
patterns are nothing more than a mathematical formula Sewing When the sewer has gathered the necessary tools
that the sewer calculates based on the intended wearer’s to tackle a pattern, the process of garment construction
measurements. Once calculated, the sewers have the includes several elements. Before cutting, fabric for
measurements needed to cut the cloth and sew the sewing should be prepared, often by prewashing and
garment together. At the other end of the spectrum are ironing, and ensuring that he fabric grain is straight. Next,
haute couture fashion designs. When a couture garment is the sewer lays out pattern pieces, often based on a diagram
made of unusual material. Or has extreme productions, provided with the pattern, with the intent of using a little
the design may be challenging the sewer’s engineering fabric as possible. Patterns will specify whether to cut or
knowledge. Complex designs are drafted and refitted to grain or the bias. The special placement may be
dozens of times, make take around o hours to develop a required for directional, striped, or plaid fabrics.
final pattern, and required 60 hours of cutting and sewing.
Supporting materials, such as interfacing or lining, may
Most clothing today is mass-produced, and conforms to be used in garment construction, to give the fabric a more
standard sizing, based on body measurements that are rigid or durable shape.
intended to fit the greatest proportion of the population.
However, while “standard” sizing is generally a useful Before or after the pattern pieces are cut, it is often
guideline, it is little more than that, because there is no necessary to mark the pieces to provide a guide during the
industry standard that Is “both widely accepted and sewing process. Marking methods may include using
strictly adhered to in all markets”. pens, pencils, or chalk, tailor’s tacks, snips. Pins, or thread
tracing, among others.
Home sewers are often work from patterns purchased
from companies such as Simplicity, Butterick, McCall’s, Clothing Technology
Vogue, and many others. A sewer may choose to alter a
Clothing technology has evolved to a complicated science
pattern to make it more accurately fit the intended wearer.
weighed against the labor cost making positive and
Patterns maybe changed to increased or reduced length;
negative effects across the globe. Millions of women in
to add or re moved fullness; to adjust the position of the
Bangladesh and other developing countries have come out
waistline, shoulder line, or other seam, or a variety of
of poverty working as Sewing Machine Operators.
other adjustments. Volume can be added with elements
such as pleats, or reduced with the used of darts. Before Construction of Digital Garments
work is started on the final garments may be made,
sometimes referred to as muslins. With the development of cloth simulation software such
as CLO3D, Marvelous Designer and Optitex,
Sewing Tools seamstresses can now draft patterns on the computer and
visualize clothing design by using the pattern creation tool
• Sewers working on a simple project needed only
and virtual sewing machines within these cloth simulation
a few sewing tools, such a measuring tape,
programs.
 • Keep electricity outlets in mind when setting up
Lesson 2: How to Set Up a Sewing Room
machinery and lamps. Makes sure you won’t have
PART 1: Arranging the Room to use electrical cords, which could be tripping
hazard. If you used power strips, use a surge
1. Decide what room you are going to use. Office protector to prevent any damage to your
or spare bedrooms are perfect for turning into machinery.
sewing rooms. While it doesn’t have to be large, • Make sure the room has good general light. This
make sure the spaces are at least enough for a could come from the windows. You’ll also need
storage area and sewing table desk. lots of localize light for projects. You’ll require
several task specific lamps that allow you to
• If you do not have an entire room to devote direct light.
sewing, set aside an area in a room that is used for
other things. A bedroom, office, family room, PART 2: Organizing your Machine
den, or even a closet could have a sewing space
1. Begin by sorting and arranging your largest
in it.
items. These could include bolts of fabrics, and
• If sharing a space within another room, determine
ironing board, or a full-length mirror. Make sure
of you want to keep it open or divided the space
things that you frequently used are easy to access,
for separate uses.
while tools you only occasionally use are well
• Make sure whatever space choose has easy access
stored and labeled so that you can find them.
to electrical outlets for your equipment, lamps, or
computer.
• Ironing board, caddies, that hang on the door are
2. Determine what equipment and furniture you
a great way to save space in a smaller sewing
want to place your sewing room. An old
room.
computer desk will work perfectly for a sewing
• A large mirror can be placed on the back of the
table. You can also use a chest of drawers for
door, if you can’t fit a full-length mirror in the
storage. Consider what large items you want in
room.
the room, such as ironing board or couch.
• Care should be taken when storing fabric. Make
sure it’s out of direct sunlight, as prolonged
• If you’d like to include a cutting table, it needs to
exposure could cause it to fade. Fabric can be
be accessible from multiple sides and be large
hung, stored folded on shelves, rolled and store in
enough to fit the fabric for whatever projects
boxes, or filed in the cabinet.
you’ll working on. you should also make sure the
table is high enough for you to stand without back
2. Determine what materials you’d like to
pain.
conceal while storing. These could be tools you
• If you have a small space, try to used things that
don’t use frequently or you’d simply like to store
will double up your storage. For example, you can
out of site. For example, you might have bunch of
set your sewing machine on a desk and used the
small notions that you occasionally use, but want
drawers for storage.
to store. You might consider placing them all in
• Don’t forget to include a way to store trash,
the compartments of a toolbox, then keep the
recycling, and project scraps.
toolbox in a closet.
3. Draw the floor plan of the room or area.
• Closets are one of the best ways to store materials.
Includes your equipment and items from step 2.
The shelves are good for storing bolts of fabric.
These could be things like a desk for your sewing
Or boxes of equipment and scraps. You can also
machine, cutting table, small couch, ironing
hang fabric from the clothing rod in the closet.
board, and shelves.
• Pull-out storage keeps item hidden, but easy to
access. Consider using a pull-out shelf in a
• Remember to include bookcases or wall-mounted
cabinet or desk.
shelves. Closet companies can help install custom
• A file cabinet is useful for keeping patterns
storage, or you can but closet organizer kits and
organized. If you don’t want to see a file cabinet
install then yourself.
in your room, you can always place it in the closet
• Make a cutting area, sewing area, pressing area.
and store items on top of it, for added storage.
Place these areas in a work triangle to maximize
efficiency when moving around the room.
3. Choose what material you’d like to store in the
• Of you have a large room, place your work station
open. A benefit is that you’ll quickly be able to
in a center of the room allows you to work on all
find these items. Clear storage is a good way to
sides.
store bobbins, needles, measuring tape, and pins.
4. Arrange the equipment and furniture according to
• If you’re worried about your space looking
your floor plan. Start with any builtin storage, and
cluttered, make sure the items are organized by
then add the desk or sewing table, and any
type, but displayed in similar manner. For
portable storage.
instance, arranging all your buttons, regardless of
 colors, in several similar clear jars quickly shows comfy seating nearby so you can relax and
you what colors you have while keeping them consider new project.
uniform. • You can also make a place to display complete
• Pegboard is also a good option for visible projects or sewing collections. Arrange then on
displaying and storing frequently used material. floating shelves or frame and hang them around
Rods can be attached in order to display spools of the room. To display small items, such as bobbins
ribbon or thread. Pegboard is a good alternative or thimbles, arrange them individually in
to drawer storage when it comes to ease of use. typesetter’s tray.
PART 3: Decorating the Room Lesson 3: How to Take Clothing Measurements
1. Paint or wallpaper the room. Keep in mind that Method 1 Men
cool colors (blues, greens, purples) have a
1. Get a flexible measuring tape. These are often sold
calming effect while warm colors (reds, pinks,
n craft store.
oranges) excite.
2. Neck:
• Consider what mode you want to evoke in your
room. For example, if you want a relaxing room, • Measure around the base of the neck in inches.
consider using green. Yellow-range creates an • Round up to the nearest half inch.
inviting atmosphere. To help you focus on 3.Chest:
projects, consider Blue-green, red orange can
encourage creativity. • Wrap tape measure under armpits around fullest
• Keep light in mind when choosing color for the part of chest (usually right above nipples).
walls. If your room doesn’t have much natural
4.Sleeve:
light, you might not want to choose a dark color
can make the room feels brighter and larger. • Bend your elbow and rest your hand in your hip.
• If you don’t want to paint or wallpaper the room, • Have someone measure from the middle of the
but would still like to change the color, you can back of your neck to your wrist by potting the tape
display quilts, hang curtains, or paint shelving measure over your shoulder, around your elbow
units in your chosen color. and to your wrist.

2. Add soft furnishing to the space. Make sure 5.Waist: •

your room is comfortable so you’ll enjoy using it. • Wrap tape measure around where you normally
Cushion, pillows, and soft throws can make the wear your pants.
room cozier and more inviting. This is also a great • Keep tape measure a little loose by keeping a
way to add color and display soft furnishing finger between the tape measure and your waist.
you’ve made.
6.Hips:
• Soft furnishing has practical uses. Rugs are great
• Stand with legs about 6 inches (15.2 cm) apart
for adding comfort to hard flooring and absorbing
and measure around the fullest part of your hips.
noise. Pillows and cushion can make your chairs
or couch more comfortable. A cushion chair on 7. Inseam:
wheels can also prevent back pain when working
long hours at your workplace. • Put on a pair of shoes.
• If you’d like to decorate your sewing rooms as the • Have someone measure from your crotch to back
seasons change, swap out rugs, cushion or curtain of the heel, where you want your pants to end.
for a quick and expensive room update. Method 2 WOMEN
• Think vertically when personalizing your room.
A large wall is a great place to hang a finished 1. Get a flexible measuring tape. These are often sold
quilt. Bookshelves are handy place to store in craft stores.
blankets or cushion for easy used while 2. Bust:
displaying pops of colors.
• Wrap tape measure under the armpits, around the
3. Showcase your work and what inspires you. fullest part of the bust.
Have an inspirational board or wall where you
3.Bra:
can hang projects ideas. These could be a
magazine clipping, scraps of fabric, paint chips, • Traditional method: wrap tape measure just under
or anything that motivate you. the breast, around the rib cage. Don’t forget to add
four (five if odd number) inches this is your
• Popular inspiration boards can be made of cork, bra/cup size.
covered with coordinating fabric, or magazine. • Modern method: wrap tape measure just under
• Place crafting magazine, books and patterns on the breast, around the rib cage. This is your under
shelves where you can quickly get ideas. Have bust measurement. Round up to the nearest even
number to get your band size. Then subtract you
 under bust measurement from your bust 9. Lay the damp fabric on a flat surface and allow to
measurement. air dry.
• The result is your cup size according to the 10. Preshrink trims, ribbons or zippers if necessary
following: 11. Trim the selvage edges from fabric by laying it
• AA = ½” out on a cutting board and using scissors or a
• A = 1” rotary cutter to remove cleanly.
• B = 2” 12. Run a seam line around the edges of fabric that
• C = 3” tends to fray after the pattern pieces have been cut
• D = 4” and before you sew the pieces together. You can
• E/DD (US) or DD (UK) = 5” also use a serge for this.
• F/DDD (US) or E (UK) = 6” 13. Straighten fabric grain before sewing.
• G (US) or F(UK) = 7” • If the fabric has a straight horizontal pattern,
• H (US) or FF (UK) = 8” simply trim both cut ends of the fabric piece along
• I (US) or G (UK) = 9” a horizontal line.
• J (US) or GG (UK) = 10” • If the fabric is woven, begin at 1 selvage edge and
pull a few horizontal threads across the width of
4.Waist:
the fabric. Trim the fabric along this thread line.
• Wrap tape measure around were you normally If you have not yet removed the selvage edges,
wear your pants. make a vertical cut just beyond the selvage edge.
Repeat on the other end.
5.Hip: • To check that the grain is straight, fold the fabric
• Stand with legs about 6 inches (15.2 cm) apart an lengthwise so the selvage edges meet and the top
measure around the fullest part of the hips and bottom are straight. If there is any distortion
(usually about 7-10 inches below the waist). in the fabric, it may need to be pressed with a
steam iron, working from the selvage edges to the
MODULE 2 fold.
Lesson 1: How to prepare Fabric for Sewing Lesson 2: How to Hem
How to prepare Fabric for Sewing How to Hem
STEPS: Hems- A properly sewn hem:
1. Make a note of laundering instruction when you • Hang straight & even
purchase fabric. Most fabric stores will give you • Parallel to the floor
labels with these directions automatically, but if • All fullness be eased in and sewn smoothly
they are not available, make your own.
2. Rinse deep, dark colors like black or indigo blue Hem Steps
in a basin of cool water until the dye no longer 1. Mark them length
tinges the water. Then wash according to 2. Turn the hem up and press
manufacturer’s directions. 3. Finish the hem edge
3. Wash each color separately. Dry in the dryer and 4. Attach the hem
remove the fabric while still slightly damp. Iron
the fabric until it is completely dry, using the Mark the Hem
recommended heat setting for each fabric.
• Work with a partner
Delicate fabrics that cannot go in the dryer should
• Wear garment with appropriate shoes
be line dried or laid flat until almost dry and ready
• Measure the desired length with a yard stick from
to be ironed.
the floor
4. Apply fusible interfacing before sewing thin
• Mark desired length with pins or a marking tool.
cotton fabrics that might otherwise twist and
bunch. The interfacing will help stabilize the Turn up the Hem
fabric when sewing.
• Depending on the selected hemming method,
5. Turn the steam iron to its highest setting. Lay the
measure from desired hem length and make an
fabric, right side down, on an ironing board. Place
additional mark noting where to trim the excess
the interfacing, glue side down, on top of the
fabric.
fabric. Slightly dampen a cloth kitchen towel and
place on top of the interfacing. Finish the Edge
6. Activate the steam feature, and hold in place for
10 seconds. The raw edge of a hem must be finished to prevent
7. Check to see if the fabrics have fused, and raveling.
continue on until all your fabric is stabilized • The finish is determined by fabric & function.
8. Preshrink dry-clean only fabric by ironing across • The raw edges of hems are finished just like the
the grain of the fabric in horizontal and vertical raw edges of seams.
passes with a steam iron. Ironing against the grain
can distort the fabric.
Attach the Hem • Used to temporarily hold a hem, i.e. dressing for
work and you inadvertently pull out the hem of
Hems are attached by hand, machine or fusing. Hems by
your pants and need a quick fix.
Machine
• Done with a fusible web
• It is the quickest, permanent hemming method
Lesson 3: What is Sewing Stitches
• Most common methods are Top stitched, turned
& stitched, machine blind hem and rolled hem. The ability to sew stitches is essential, as they are used to
join textiles to make clothing, accessories, and other
Top Stitched
textile crafts. Stitches come in many varieties, each with
• Used to attach a hem and decorate at the same a distinct function. Here are a few typical sewing stitches.
time (the stitching shows, just like any top
1. Straight Stitch:
stitching).
• This is the basic and most commonly used stitch.
Top stitched Hem • It involves sewing in a straight line, creating a
simple and strong seam.
1. Mark them
2. Trim to 1 1/4” 2. Backstitch:
3. Press hem to inside 1 1/4” • A stronger version of the straight stitch.
4. Turn raw edge in 1 1/4” & press again. • Involves stitching backward and forward on the
5. Top stitch close to second fold. same line to reinforce the seam.
Hems by Machine Turned and Stitched
3. Running Stitch:
• Looks like a top stitched hem, but the amount of • A basic hand-sewing stitch where the needle and
fabric turned up is very small (1/4” and usually thread run in and out of the fabric in a straight
found at the bottom of a man’s shirt). line.
• Often used for gathering fabric or basting.
Turn & Stitch Hem
1. Mark hem & trim so that it is 5/8”. 4. Basting Stitch:
2. Turn raw edge up 5/8” & press. • Long, temporary stitches used to hold fabric
3. Turn raw edge in to the 5/8” pieces together before permanent sewing.
4. Top stitch along the second folded edge. • Helps in fitting and adjusting.

Machine Blind Hem 5. Zigzag Stitch:

• Used for most commercially hemmed garment, • Moves the needle in a zigzag pattern.
• Uses the blind hem foot. • Used to finish raw fabric edges, preventing
• Virtually invisible fraying.

Steps Machine Blind Hem 6. Overlock Stitch (Serger Stitch):

• Created by a serger (overlock machine).
1. Press the hem
• Trims the seam allowance and overcasts the
2. Fold the raw edge in 1/4” and press
edge simultaneously, providing a neat finish.
3. Pin hem in position
4. Turn the “hem” back on itself
7. Blind Hem Stitch:
5. Position it under the blind hem foot
• Conceals stitches on the right side of the fabric.
6. Sew using the machine blind hem stitch
• Often used in hems for a clean, hidden finish.
Hems by hand The stitches should be:
8. Buttonhole Stitch:
• Evenly spaced • Specifically designed for creating buttonholes.
• Loosed enough that the fabric does not pucker • Usually done by sewing a series of closely
• Almost invisible spaced zigzag stitches.
• Sewn with a single thread Hems by hand Slip
stitch: 9. Cross Stitch:
• Stitches are almost invisible • An embroidery stitch forming an X shape.
• Used to attach a folded edge such as a hemmed • Often used for decorative purposes.
(turned & stitched) finish or bias binding.
To sew, the hand needle is slipped inside the folded edge 10. Chain Stitch:
of the hem and the picks up one or two threads of the • Creates a series of loops linked together.
fabric directly below. • Commonly used for embroidery or decorative
purposes.
Fused Hem
• It is considered a quick fix. 11. Blanket Stitch:
• A hand-sewing stitch with a series of loops along
the edge.
 • Often used for finishing the edges of blankets or 22. Triple Stretch Stitch:
felt projects. • A reinforced machine stitch designed for
stretchy fabrics.
12. Lockstitch: • Commonly used in activewear and knit
• Formed by the interaction of the upper and garments.
lower threads.
• Commonly used in sewing machines for its 23. Pintucks:
strength and durability. • Small, narrow folds of fabric stitched in place.
• Often used for decorative purposes, creating
13. Satin Stitch: textured patterns on garments.
• A dense, closely spaced zigzag stitch used for
creating a smooth and shiny surface. 24. Smocking Stitch:
• Commonly used in appliqué work and • Involves gathering fabric into small, decorative
decorative embroidery. stitches to create a textured pattern.
• Commonly used in creating decorative elements
14. Faggoting Stitch: on clothing.
• Involves stitching together two parallel fabric
edges with a decorative openwork pattern 25. Flat-fell Seam:
between them. • A strong seam often used in jeans or heavy
• Creates a lacy effect and is often used in lingerie fabrics where raw edges are enclosed by folding
or delicate garments. and stitching.
Lesson 4: How to sew curtain
15. Feather Stitch:
• A decorative hand embroidery stitch resembling sewing curtains is akin to unveiling a world of creativity
a row of small, staggered "V" shapes. and functionality, where fabric transforms into a
• Adds an ornamental touch to fabric edges or symphony of colors and textures that not only adorn our
seams. living spaces but also serve the practical purpose of
controlling light and enhancing privacy. Sewing curtains
16. Herringbone Stitch: is a timeless craft that allows individuals to infuse their
• A hand embroidery stitch that creates a pattern personality into their homes, creating a harmonious blend
resembling the bones of a fish. of style and utility.
• Often used for decorative borders or to secure
the edges of fabric. Embarking on the journey of crafting your own curtains
opens the door to a realm of possibilities, where you can
17. Couching Stitch: choose from an extensive array of fabrics, patterns, and
• Involves stitching one thread (the decorative designs. From the delicate sheen of silk to the sturdy
thread) onto the fabric surface using another texture of linen, each fabric selection holds the power to
thread (the anchor thread). influence the ambiance of a room, reflecting your unique
• Used for embellishing fabrics with thicker or taste and the intended mood of the space. The process of
specialty threads. sewing curtains is not merely a mechanical task but an art
form that requires precision, creativity, and a deep
18. Ladder Stitch (Invisible Stitch): understanding of the interplay between fabric and design.
• A nearly invisible hand-sewing stitch used for Whether you opt for traditional pleats, modern eyelets, or
closing openings in seams. elegant tab tops, the choice of curtain style can drastically
• Creates an invisible seam when done correctly. alter the overall aesthetic of a room. Beyond aesthetics,
the practical aspects of curtain construction, such as
19. Quilting Stitch (Quilting Patterns): measuring, cutting, and hemming, demand attention to
• Various stitches used in quilting to secure the detail for a flawless finished product.
layers of fabric and batting together. Moreover, sewing curtains empowers individuals to tailor
• Common quilting stitches include stippling, their window treatments to suit specific needs, be it
meandering, and straight-line quilting. controlling light levels, insulating against the elements, or
achieving a desired level of privacy. The ability to
20. Fell Stitch: customize curtains according to the unique requirements
• A hand-sewing stitch used for joining two folded of a space adds a personal touch that store-bought
edges. alternatives often lack. In this journey of sewing curtains,
• Often used in hemming and creating a flat, neat one not only hones their skills in the fine art of stitching
seam. but also gains a deeper appreciation for the transformative
power of fabric. Whether you are a seasoned seamstress
21. Shell Tuck Stitch: or a novice with a passion for DIY projects, the process of
• A decorative machine stitch that creates a shell-like sewing curtains is an enriching experience that allows you
pattern. to turn a simple piece of cloth into a functional and
aesthetic masterpiece that enhances the beauty of your
• Adds texture and embellishment to fabric edges. home. So, let the journey begin as we unravel the
intricacies of sewing curtains, exploring the stitches,
techniques, and creative choices that will transform your
living spaces into havens of style and comfort.
Materials and Tools:
1. Fabric: Choose a fabric that complements your décor
and suits your needs (e.g., lightweight cotton for a casual
look, heavy drapery fabric for more formal settings).
2. Measuring tape: Measure your windows to determine
the required fabric length and width.
3. Thread: Select a thread color that matches or
complements your fabric.
4. Sewing machine: A basic sewing machine will suffice,
but you can also hand-sew if you prefer.
5. Pins and scissors: Essential for cutting fabric and
securing seams.
Steps:
1. Measure and Calculate:
• Measure the width and length of your window.
• Add allowances for hems and seams. Typically,
a 1-inch seam allowance and a 4-inch hem
allowance are standard.

2. Cutting Fabric:
• Using your measurements, cut the fabric panels
to the desired size. If your fabric has a pattern,
make sure to align it properly.

3. Hemming:
• Fold and press a 1-inch hem on each side of the
fabric panel.
• Fold and press a 4-inch hem at the bottom of the
panel.
• If your curtain will have a rod pocket or tabs,
fold and press the top accordingly.

4. Sewing Seams:
• Using your sewing machine, sew the side hems
first.
• Sew the bottom hem, making sure it is neat and
even.

5. Creating a Rod Pocket or Tabs:

• If you're creating a rod pocket, fold and sew a
channel at the top of the curtain wide enough to
accommodate your curtain rod.
• For tabs, cut strips of fabric and sew them onto
the top of the curtain to create loops for the
curtain rod.

6. Finishing Touches:
• Trim any loose threads and press the entire
curtain for a polished look.

7. Hang Your Curtains:

• Finally, install your curtain rod and hang your
newly sewn curtains