Please take note that this pattern is for personal use only.

You shall not share nor distribute this

pattern in any way. However, you are allowed to sell your finish product provided that you will credit
me as the designer, as well as tag me on your posts featuring the Lily Cardigan on my Instagram
account. I would also love to feature your outputs there.
Should you have any questions or clarifications, do not hesitate to leave a message on my Instagram
account. I will gladly help you. If you have time, I also ask you to leave some feedbacks featuring your
outputs on my etsy shop.
Lastly, thank you so much for purchasing my pattern. It really means a lot to me. I hope you’ll have fun
making the Lily Cardigan!

Contact me:
Instagram: @ara__ph
Email: sanpedro.araaa@gmail.com

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 • 3.5 mm hook
• Size 2 yarn, sport- weight (this is recommended to preserve the cardigan’s flowy and dreamy
look); you may refer to the catalogue to see average length of yarn used per size.
• Tapestry Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Measuring Tape
• Scissors

• Gauge- dimension of a flower square: 3.5” x 3.5” (see notes on the next page);

• Skill level: Advanced Beginner

CH: Chain SK: Skip

TC: Treble Crochet ST: Stitch
TC2TOG: 2 Treble Crochets Together SLST: Slip Stitch
WS: Wrong Side: side of the cardi facing inside when worn SC: Single Crochet
RS: Right Side: side of the cardi facing outside when worn REP: Repeat

This is a graded pattern but instructions are provided in case gauge is not met. Notes about this
on the next page. Read it carefully!
In the creation of the Lily Cardigan, basically you will just create flower squares and connect
them as you go to form your back and front panel, and sleeves. At the end of each sleeve, you will add
ruffles. To finish the look, you will just put borders into the inside edges and a lace which you will use to
create a ribbon when you wear your cardigan.

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 • For GAUGE. It’s okay even though your gauge is not exactly the same with the stated gauge as
long as there’s only small difference.
• As you go along, it is POSSIBLE that the dimension of your squares will shrink. However, it’s
not much.
• There are corresponding number of squares per row for each size. This is applicable if your
gauge is the same/ almost the same with the gauge.
IN CASE YOUR GAUGE IS REALLY SMALLER OR BIGGER THAN THE GAUGE SIZE

• Make sure that the width of your back panel will drape to your shoulder.
• For the front panel, just ensure that the right and left portion will have equal column. If you have
odd number of squares per row, you may leave just 1 column at the center or 3 columns, based
on what you think will suit better.
• For the sleeve, make sure again that you have equal number of rows from the middle to the back
panel and to the front panel.
If it happens that your sleeve is too tight, and you think adding another square on both
panels may make your sleeve to loose, follow the technique you will see on the next page under
“SMALL.”
• If you are using smaller/ bigger gauge size, based on the testing, it is still possible that the sizing
is still good to follow.
• Another thing, you may increase or lessen your gauge by using a hook size bigger or smaller
than the recommended one.

BACK PANEL
MIDDLE PART-
top level of your
S shoulder
S
L
L
E
E
E 1 2 E
V
V
E
E
S
S

FRONT PANEL
The illustration above shows how your cardigan should look like.
For the back panel, it is a complete square/ rectangle.
For the front panel, the number of rows is similar to your back panel, but you will have to leave two
columns at the center (this varies).
For the sleeves, you will have even rows (this also varies)- from the middle part to the back panel and
from the middle part to the front panel. Same process for both sides.
-- next page: Sizing. Read it carefully because it will serve as your basis –

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 WITH RESPECT TO THE PROVIDED GAUGE

Stated here is the number of squares and column for each part with respect to sizes. You may write this
on a piece of paper.
Take note that the number of rows for the back and front panel depends on how long you want your
cardigan to be. It does not matter if it is even or odd.
Moreover, for the number of columns for the sleeves, it depends on how long you want it to be.
Note: Row refers to horizontal axis and column refers to vertical axis as presented on the illustrations.
XS/S
Back panel: 6 squares per row (it should drape on your shoulder)
There is an exception here. If you are size XS and you don’t have big chest, you may consider having 5
squares per row. For this case, for your front panel, you will just leave one column of squares at the
center.
Sleeves: number of rows: total of 4 rows, 2 rows from the middle to the front panel and another 2 rows
from the middle to the back panel.
There is an exception here, there are cases when the arm hole is a bit bigger. For this case, you will
have to put an extra row for the body.

You will do the additional squares once all parts of your cardigan are complete. Once you figure out that
the arm hole with 4 rows is too small, or you want it looser, then add additional rows to the front panel
and to the sleeves as well (part of your front panel). See photo below for more clarity.

This technique is
applicable to all sizes if
you think that the
sleeves portion may be This will now be the top
level of your shoulder.
too tight for you.

Add a row here Add a row here

Add a row here Add a row here

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MEDIUM- SMALL
Back Panel: 7 squares per row.
Sleeves: number of rows: total of 5 rows, 1 row in the middle, 2 rows from the middle to the front panel
and another 2 rows from the middle to the back panel.

Middle: Top level

of your shoulder.

MEDIUM- LARGE
Back Panel: 8 squares per row
Sleeves: number of rows: total of 5 rows, 1 row in the middle, 2 rows from the middle to the front panel
and another 2 rows from the middle to the back panel.

Middle: Top level

of your shoulder.

LARGE/ XL
Back Panel: 8 squares per row
Sleeves: number of rows: total of 6 rows, 3 rows from the middle to the front panel and another 3 rows
from the middle to the back panel.

XXL
Back Panel: 10 squares per row
Sleeves: number of rows: total of 8 rows, 4 rows from the middle to the front panel and another 4 rows
from the middle to the back panel.

There may be instances when the width of 10 squares drapes too much. BUT take note that you also
have to take into consideration your chest part.

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You just have to create flower squares and connect them to form your back panel.
How to do the flower squares:

Step 1: CH8. SLST into the 1st ST. CH1. SC Step 2: CH4. TC3TOG.
into the circle 16 times. SLST into the first Note: CH4 acts as TC for your
ST. TC3TOG

TC3TOG for STEP 2, where CH4 acts as a ST.

YO twice. Insert hook into the same ST. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull through 2 loops. YO. Pull through
2 loops (Now you have 2 loops)
YO twice. Insert hook into the same ST. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull through 2 loops. YO. Pull through
2 loops (Now you have 3 loops). YO. Pull through 3 loops.

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 Step 3. CH12. SK next ST. TC
3TOG into the next ST.

How to do TC3TOG (petal):

YO twice. Insert hook into the ST. YO. Pull up a
loop. YO. Pull through 2 loops. YO. Pull through 2
loops (Now you have 2 loops)
*(YO twice. Insert hook into the same ST. YO. Pull
SK 1 ST. up a loop. YO. Pull through 2 loops. YO. Pull
through 2 loops) * REP **. (Now you have 4 loops).
YO. Pull through 4 loops.

Step 4: CH5. SK next ST. TC3TOG into the next ST.

1st CH

REP step 3 and 4 until you have 8 petals. You should end with CH5. SLST into the 1st ST to end your
flower square. CH1 to secure. CUT.
Now you are done with the first flower square. You will basically just repeat the steps, BUT you will
now start connecting the squares you make. Here’s how:
Note: In connecting the squares, make sure you are always facing the RS.

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 x

Once you’re done with your first petal, you have to CH12, but to connect, you have to CH6 first. To do it, remove
your hook and insert it into the upper right edge of the 1st square. From there, pull up the loop, then CH6 again.
Now you have your CH12. SK next ST then create the next petal.

Note: In getting the edge, since it has 12 chains, there is no specific middle, hence you can insert the hook into
the 6th or 7th chain.

Now you have to CH5. Since you have to create a connection between the 2 squares, CH3 first. Remove
your hook from the 2nd square, and insert it into the middle right side. Pull up the loop then CH 2. Now
you have your CH5. SK next ST, then create your next petal.

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CH6 once again and connect it into the lower right edge. After you connected the right side of the 1 st
square and right side of the 2nd square, continue with the routine. SLST into the 1st ST. CH1 to secure.
Cut.

Continue until you reach your needed number of squares per row.

Second Row of flower squares

For the 2nd row of flower squares, you will basically repeat what you did but this time you will connect
the bottom part of the squares on the 1st row and upper part of the squares you are making on the 2nd
row.
Note: The manner of connecting the squares will always be the same.
So, after you are done with connecting the bottom part of the 1st square and upper part of the 2nd
square, continue with the routine until your square is completed.

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 For the 2nd square on the 2nd row, you will just follow
the manner of connecting the squares, but this
time, you have two sides to connect.
For your first petal, to connect, CH6 once again
first. You will connect it to the x with red circle. X
marks are where your connections shall be made

Continue the process until you reach your desired length or number of rows.

Now, you will basically have to continue the routine of making and connecting squares. But, as
mentioned, you will just have to leave 2 columns at the center (as mentioned, this varies. Refer to
sizing).

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 Start here Start here

For the sleeves, again you will just have to continue with the routine of creating and connecting
squares. It is just that your first square for your sleeve shall be connected on the side.
Again, you may add more columns depending on how you long you want your sleeves to be.
Now check if the armhole is just right for you. If not, as mentioned on the sizing part, you may add
rows on the front part. You may refer to page 4 for more clarity.

Now, fold your cardigan from the middle. Make sure the wrong sides of your both panels are
facing out.
Note: This goes for both right and left sleeves.
Starting from the bottom edge of the front panel to the bottom edge of
the sleeves, you are going to start attaching the front and back panels.

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Guide to attaching your panels:

Step 1: Make a slip knot. Insert hook into the ST at the

bottom edge. Basically, connect the two edges.

Step 2. CH1. SLST into the CH space. CH1. SLST

into the CH space. CH1. SLST into the CH space.
CH1. SLST into the next ST (above petal)

SLST here

Step 3: for the CH5 space (smaller chain space), SLST.

CH1. SLST. CH1. SLST. SLST into the next ST (above
petal)

Bigger chain space

Intersection:
Not a ST
Step 4. For the bigger chain space, *(SLST into the CH
space. CH1. SLST into the CH space. CH1. SLST into the
CH space. CH1.) * REP for the next bigger chain space.

Smaller
chain
space

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Attachment Rule of Thumb:

• for the bigger CH space: SLST into the CH space, CH1, SLST into the CH space, CH1, SLST
into the CH space, CH1.
• For the smaller CH space: SLST. CH1. SLST. CH1. SLST.
Always take note that you should SLST into the ST above each petal.
When you reach the bottom edge of your sleeve, after CH1, SC into the ST at the edge to secure.
CH1.
Now, following the black arrow, meaning you won’t turn your work, create a row of SC. For the bigger
CH space, SC 6. SC1 into the ST above the petal. SC5 into the CH smaller space. Continue SC row
until you reach the end. SLST into the 1st ST. Do not turn.
Note: For the photo on the right, do not mind the pink arrow.
Do not SC here
SC 1
SC 5

SC 6

RUFFLES: CH4 (counts as a ST). TC 2x into the same ST. TC 3x into the next ST up to the last ST.
SLST into the 1st ST. Cut.

Now, do the same for the other sleeve.

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After you are done attaching your panels, wear your cardigan. You will have to locate where you will
put your lace, and it should be on the level of your chest. Use stitch markers.

Start here

• Make a slip knot. Facing RS, insert hook into the ST at the bottom left corner (so that your
border will be facing the RS too). CH1 to secure (not a ST).
• SC 6x into the bigger chain space, and 5x into the smaller chain space. SC also into the ST
above the petal. The intersections which you did not consider as a ST when you were attaching
your panels are now considered as a ST (you may refer to the last photo on page 13).
When you are into the space where you put your stitch marker:

• If it is a smaller chain space, SC3, if a bigger chain space, SC3 or SC4.

• CH75. SLST into the 1st up to the last ST. SC again into the same space (If in smaller space,
SC2, if in bigger CH space, SC3 or SC 2).
• SC until you reach the space where your second stitch marker is and repeat what you did to
create your first lace.
• After that, continue with the routine until you reach the bottom right corner. SC into the ST at
the bottom right corner to secure your border. CH1. Cut.

You may also put ruffles on the bottom part if you want. Just repeat what you did on the sleeves part,
BUT put 2 rows of SC first before you proceed with the ruffles using TC3.
SPECIFIC INSTRUCTION

• As you create 1st row of, face the RS of your cardigan.

• For the 2nd row, you are now facing the WS.
• Lastly, for the ruffles, you are facing the RS again.
You’ve got lots of excess yarns to weave! Haha! Don’t worry, it will be worth it!

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