i

Bangladesh University of Textiles

Tejgaon, Dhaka – 1208

Report on Industrial Attachment

Duration: 2nd January 2024 to 29 February 2024

Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. (FTML)

Gorgoria Masterbari, Sreepur, Gazipur.

SUPERVISING TEACHER
Md Abul Kalam Azad
Lecturer, Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering

Submitted by:
Student Name ID
Md. Hasibur Rahaman 2019-1-9-040

B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering
Date of Submission: 25th September 2024
 ii

Bangladesh University of Textiles

Tejgaon, Dhaka – 1208

Report on Industrial Attachment

Duration: 2nd January 2024 to 29 February 2024

Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. (FTML)

Gorgoria Masterbari, Sreepur, Gazipur.

SUPERVISING TEACHER
Md Abul Kalam Azad
Lecturer, Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering
Submitted by:
Student Name ID
Mahmudul Hasan 2019-1-9-001
Ahmed Ahsan Shimanta 2019-1-9-002
Md. Hasibur Rahaman 2019-1-9-040

B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering
Date of Submission: 25th September 2024
 iii

Acknowledgement

All praise goes to the Almighty Allah, for giving us the ability and potential to finish our
internship journey.

We are sincerely grateful to our supervising teacher, Md Abul Kalam Azad (Lecturer,
Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering) for his excellent support and guidance. From
the first hour to the end of our journey, he has provided us with guidance, continuous
motivation, and time saving advice, all of which have guided us towards fulfilling this journey.
He also shared his experience during his professional journey which guide us towards the
points that we need to work on. We are truly grateful for his support and direction throughout
this endeavour journey.

We also acknowledge Prof. Dr. Mohammad Forhad Hossain (Head, Department of Dyes and
Chemical Engineering, and Dr. Mohammad Abbas Uddin Shiyak (Assistant Professor,
Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering) for their insightful guidance which continue
to serve as the foundation for all our efforts.

We are deeply grateful to the Rahinur Islam Limon (Former Deputy General Manager, FTML)
for granting us the opportunity to work in their factory. We would also like to express our
sincere gratitude to our industrial supervisor Rajibur Rahman (Sr. Manager, Head of Knitting,
FTML). We would like to show our respect to Sadeq Rahman (COO, FTML) Md. Ruhul
Quddus (CTO, FTML) for giving us guidance and advice.

Special thanks to Haradhan Dey (Asst. Manager Dyeing) and Bellal Hossain (Jr. Executive,
Knitting) for helping us and guiding us through the journey.
 iv

Executive Summary
Fakhruddin Textile Mills ltd is a concern of Urmi group with complete setup providing
complete manufacture of finished garments. FTML was set up in 2002 with the combination
of modern Technology and skilled professionals which helped FTML to achieve the ability to
cater to the world's top-tier customers in a short period of time. With state-of-the-art technology
FTML provide top notch garments solution. FTML has already taken its position as one of the
top Man-Made Fabric (MMF) solution provider in Bangladesh. With strong ambition ahead
and challenges FTML also added new innovation projects and new technology like automation
and Artificial Intelligence. With 42000 square feet facility FTML provide Knitting, Dyeing,
Finishing, Apparel, Washing & Printing facility. It has 33,000 kg knitting capacity per day with
96 advance knitting machine and 50,000 kg finishing capacity per day with 42 dyeing
machines. The garments section can produce 80000 pics garments per day. FTML is also
pioneer in seamless technology in Bangladesh with total knitting capacity of 8,000 pics per day
with dyeing capacity of 12000 pics per day. The seamless unit has total 64 SANTONI Top2V
knitting machine. FTML is a vertically integrated factory. All the department of the FTML is
interconnected through ERP system. All data are centrally controlled and accessible. FTML is
focused on sustainability and Lean manufacturing which is practiced and monitored through
audit. FTML is a fully compliance factory which got certification like GOTS, OEKO-TEX®.
FTML is also focusing in reducing CO2 emission by inaugurating rooftop solar technology and
heat recovery in the factory. With value driven ecosystem FTML is delivering excellence to the
export earning of Bangladesh.

Our group of three members completed a two-month internship at FTML from January 2, 2024
to February 29, 2024. During our internship, we covered various sections including yarn
storage, grey fabric storage, knitting, dyeing, physical and chemical labs, finishing, garments,
printing, WTP, ETP, and utility. SWOT analysis was done to get an overall idea about the
present condition of the factory. We observed factory's strengths include the engineers'
technical knowledge, state-of-the-art machinery, synchronized knitting, dyeing, and finishing
processes, investment in AI technology for knitting, and automation in dyeing (auto-dispensing
of liquid chemicals). On the other hand, in some section lack of effective employee
management and lack of skilled workers were the main drawback for the factory.

Based on the observations and analysis during the internship at the factory, our
recommendations are as follows: To reduce production loss, better worker management is
essential. Increasing the knitting production capacity will also contribute to overall efficiency.
Precise control over the dyeing process is necessary to avoid additional steps such as color
addition, topping, and stripping. Maintaining a clean and dry dyeing floor is crucial for safety
and efficiency. Analyzing and minimizing machine stoppage time will help optimize
 v

production flow. Additionally, reducing rework in the finishing section by ensuring desired
outputs are achieved on the first attempt is important. Finally, organizing training sessions for
machine operators will enhance productivity while reducing time and energy consumption.

To Whom it may Concern

I declare that this report has been prepared under my supervision and it is a true presentation
of the works carried out by Mahmudul Hasan, Ahmed Ahsan Shimanta, Md. Hasibur
Rahaman during their industrial attachment at Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. (FTML) from
2nd January 2024 to 29 February 2024.

Signature:

Name of the Supervisor: Md Abul Kalam Azad

Designation: Lecturer, Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering

Date:

Email: [email protected]
 vi

Declaration

It is hereby declared that,

We, Mahmudul Hasan, Ahmed Ahsan Shimanta, Md. Hasibur Rahaman have completed this
internship report and is based on our own work carried in the Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.
(FTML) during the period 2nd January 2024 to 29 February 2024. The internship report is our
original work and the report here is a representation of the Industrial Attachment.

Students Name and Signature

Mahmudul Hasan:
ID: 2019-1-9-001

Ahmed Ahsan Shimanta:

ID: 2019-1-9-002

Md. Hasibur Rahaman:

ID: 2019-1-9-040
 vii

Glossary of Terms

Abbreviation Extension Form

℃ Degree Celsius

BCI Better Cotton Initiative

BGMEA Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

BKMEA Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association

BOD Biological Oxygen Demand

CD Polyester Cationic Dyeable Polyester

COD Chemical Oxygen Demand

CVC Chief Value Cotton

DO Dissolved oxygen

ECR Environmental Conservation Rules

EGB Exhaust Gas Boiler

ERP Enterprise Resource Planning

ETP Effluent Treatment Plant

FIFO First In First Out

FTML Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.

GSM Gram Per Square Meter

M/c Machine

M:L Material Liquor Ratio

 viii

MW Mega Watt

PI Performa Invoice

PC Polyester-Cotton

QAD Quality Adjustment Disc

QC Quality Checking

RFID Radio-Frequency Identification

RPM Rotation Per Minute

R&D Research and Development

SD Polyester Semi Dull Polyester

SOP Standard Operating Procedure

TDS Technical Data Sheet

TSS Total Dissolved Solids

VDQ Variable Diameter for Quality

WTP Water Treatment Plant

 ix

Table of Contents
1 Introduction: ........................................................................................................... 1

1.1 Objective.......................................................................................................... 1

1.2 Scope ............................................................................................................... 1

2 Overview of Organization ...................................................................................... 2

2.1 Factory Profile ................................................................................................. 2

2.2 Factory Location .............................................................................................. 3

2.3 Production capacity ......................................................................................... 3

2.4 Business Figure ............................................................................................... 3

2.5 Customers ........................................................................................................ 5

2.6 Company Certifications and Awards ............................................................... 5

2.7 Mission Vision................................................................................................. 6

3 Area of Studies ....................................................................................................... 7

3.1 Yarn Storage Section ....................................................................................... 7

3.1.1 Capacity .................................................................................................... 8

3.1.2 Process ...................................................................................................... 8

3.1.3 Yarn Delivery Procedure:......................................................................... 9

3.1.4 Pie chart to represent different types of data .......................................... 11

3.2 Knitting Section ............................................................................................. 14

3.2.1 Introduction: ........................................................................................... 14

3.2.2 Organogram of Knitting Section ............................................................ 15

3.2.3 Machines ................................................................................................ 15

3.2.4 Machine Parts and Working Principle ................................................... 16

3.2.5 Production Calculation and Case Study ................................................. 25

3.2.6 Case Study to Calculate Efficiency of machine ..................................... 32

3.2.7 Knitted Fabric Faults and Remedies ...................................................... 35

3.2.8 SWOT Analysis...................................................................................... 38

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3.3 Grey Store ...................................................................................................... 39

3.3.1 Capacity of Grey Store ........................................................................... 40

3.3.2 Application of RFID............................................................................... 40

3.3.3 Fabric Super Market ............................................................................... 41

3.4 Lab ................................................................................................................. 42

3.4.1 Physical Lab ........................................................................................... 43

3.4.2 Chemical Lab ......................................................................................... 47

3.5 Dyeing ........................................................................................................... 52

3.5.1 Batching ................................................................................................. 53

3.5.2 Flow process chart of Batching Section of FTML ................................. 54

3.5.3 Batch Management ................................................................................. 54

3.5.4 Dyeing Machine Specification ............................................................... 54

3.5.5 Dyes used during our internship............................................................. 55

3.5.6 Chemical and Auxiliaries Name ............................................................ 55

3.5.7 Main Parts of Dyeing Machine .............................................................. 56

3.5.8 Flowchart of Dyeing process ................................................................. 62

3.5.9 Process flow of 50% CD + 50% SD polyester ....................................... 63

3.5.10 Process flow of 100% cotton or (95% cotton + 5% elastane) ................ 65

3.5.11 Process flow for white ............................................................................ 66

3.5.12 Process flow for 100% polyester ............................................................ 66

3.5.13 Process flow for 95% viscose + 5% elastane ......................................... 67

3.5.14 Process flow for CVC (50% Cotton 50% polyester).............................. 68

3.5.15 Amount of chemicals used during various operation in dyeing process:

................................................................................................................ 69

3.5.16 Dyeing Faults and Remedies .................................................................. 71

3.5.17 SWOT Analysis...................................................................................... 72

3.6 Finishing Section ........................................................................................... 74

3.6.1 Introduction ............................................................................................ 74

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3.6.2 General Flow chart of finishing: ............................................................ 75

3.6.3 Flow Chart of finishing for Collar/Cuff ................................................. 75

3.6.4 Flow Chart of finishing for Lycra and Synthetic (Polyester) fabric ...... 75

3.6.5 Flow Chart of finishing when Peach/Brushing process Added.............. 76

3.6.6 Machines ................................................................................................ 76

3.6.7 SWOT Analysis...................................................................................... 86

3.6.8 Quality Inspection .................................................................................. 87

3.7 Garment Section ............................................................................................ 89

3.7.1 Fabric Relaxation ................................................................................... 89

3.7.2 Cutting Section ....................................................................................... 90

3.7.3 Sewing Section ....................................................................................... 95

3.7.4 Finishing ............................................................................................... 100

3.7.5 Packaging ............................................................................................. 101

3.7.6 SWOT Analysis.................................................................................... 102

3.8 Printing Section ........................................................................................... 103

3.9 WTP (Water Treatment Plant)..................................................................... 108

3.9.1 Re-generation process .......................................................................... 109

3.10 ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant)................................................................... 110

3.11 Utility ........................................................................................................... 113

3.11.1 Boiler .................................................................................................... 114

3.11.2 Generator .............................................................................................. 116

3.11.3 Compressor........................................................................................... 116

3.11.4 Solar ..................................................................................................... 117

4 Limitations ......................................................................................................... 118

5 Conclusion.......................................................................................................... 119

6 Appendices ......................................................................................................... 120

6.1.1 Attendance records: .............................................................................. 120

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7 Supplementary Document .................................................................................. 122

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List of Figures

Figure 3.1-1: Yarn Storage in FTML ......................................................................................... 7

Figure 3.1-2: Kanban board ....................................................................................................... 9
Figure 3.1-3: Procedure for Kanban Post ................................................................................ 10
Figure 3.1-4: Various count percentage used in FTML ........................................................... 11
Figure 3.1-5: Polyester yarn count(D) percentage used in FTML ........................................... 11
Figure 3.1-6: Lycra yarn count(D) percentage used in FTML................................................. 12
Figure 3.1-7: Top 10 yarn type percentage used in FTML ...................................................... 12
Figure 3.1-8: Top 10 yarn composition percentage used in FTML ......................................... 13
Figure 3.1-9: Top 10 yarn suppliers’ percentage in FTML ...................................................... 13
Figure 3.1-10: Top 10 buyers’ percentage in FTML ................................................................ 14
Figure 3.2-1: Organogram of Knitting Section ........................................................................ 15
Figure 3.2-2: Creel stand.......................................................................................................... 16
Figure 3.2-3: Aluminum Telescopic Tube................................................................................ 16
Figure 3.2-4: Different Parts of Positive Feeder ...................................................................... 17
Figure 3.2-5: Ring guide and Fan ............................................................................................ 18
Figure 3.2-6: Feeder and Lycra guide ...................................................................................... 18
Figure 3.2-7: Lycra feeder........................................................................................................ 18
Figure 3.2-8: Latch needle ....................................................................................................... 19
Figure 3.2-9: Sinker and Sinker trick ring ............................................................................... 19
Figure 3.2-10: Cylinder and Dial of circular knitting machine ............................................... 20
Figure 3.2-11: Cam box ........................................................................................................... 20
Figure 3.2-12: Different types of cam ...................................................................................... 21
Figure 3.2-13: VDQ Pulley ...................................................................................................... 21
Figure 3.2-14: Motor and Control panel .................................................................................. 22
Figure 3.2-15: Oil pipe and Air nozzle .................................................................................... 22
Figure 3.2-16: Switches ........................................................................................................... 23
Figure 3.2-17: Needle detector ................................................................................................ 23
Figure 3.2-18: Knife and Cutting motor .................................................................................. 24
Figure 3.2-19: Air gun.............................................................................................................. 24
Figure 3.3-1: RFID Scanner scans the fabric rolls ................................................................... 39
Figure 3.3-2: RFID Scanner ..................................................................................................... 39
Figure 3.3-3: RFID Tags Scanning .......................................................................................... 40
Figure 3.3-4: RFID Tag tracing................................................................................................ 40
Figure 3.3-5: Batch Requisition (ENDOL Call) ...................................................................... 41
Figure 3.3-6: Conveyer belt for transportation ........................................................................ 41
Figure 3.4-1: Laboratory work flow chart of physical and chemical test ................................ 42
Figure 3.4-2: Gakushin Rubbing Fastness Tester .................................................................... 43
Figure 3.4-3: Martindale Pilling Tester .................................................................................... 43
Figure 3.4-4: Yarn Count Tester ............................................................................................... 44
Figure 3.4-5: Orbiter Pilling Tester .......................................................................................... 44
Figure 3.4-6: TruBurst Bursting Strength Tester ..................................................................... 45
Figure 3.4-7: James Heal Tensile Strength Tester .................................................................... 45
Figure 3.4-8: Random Tumble Pilling Tester........................................................................... 45
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Figure 3.4-9: Thermohydrograph ............................................................................................. 46

Figure 3.4-10: Incubator .......................................................................................................... 46
Figure 3.4-11: Process flow of Chemical Lab ......................................................................... 47
Figure 3.4-12: Spectrophotometer ........................................................................................... 48
Figure 3.4-13: CMC report ...................................................................................................... 49
Figure 3.4-14: Process of recipe generation in spectrophotometer.......................................... 50
Figure 3.5-1: Dyeing floor in FTML ....................................................................................... 52
Figure 3.5-2: Bag sewing and Turning process ....................................................................... 53
Figure 3.5-3: Flow process chart of Batching Section ............................................................. 54
Figure 3.5-4: Main vessel ....................................................................................................... 56
Figure 3.5-5: Winch or reel ...................................................................................................... 56
Figure 3.5-6: Blower ................................................................................................................ 57
Figure 3.5-7: Main motor and pump ........................................................................................ 57
Figure 3.5-8: Heat exchanger ................................................................................................... 58
Figure 3.5-9: Reserve tank ....................................................................................................... 58
Figure 3.5-10: Chemical Tank ................................................................................................. 59
Figure 3.5-11: Lint filter .......................................................................................................... 59
Figure 3.5-12: Unloading reel .................................................................................................. 60
Figure 3.5-13: Operating panel ................................................................................................ 60
Figure 3.5-14: Water and steam inlet ....................................................................................... 61
Figure 3.5-15: Door (nozzle) ................................................................................................... 61
Figure 3.5-16: Dyeing process of 50% CD and 50% SD Polyester......................................... 63
Figure 3.5-17: Reduction clearing process for 50% CD and 50% SD Polyester ..................... 64
Figure 3.5-18: Dyeing process of 100% cotton or (95% cotton + 5% elastane) ..................... 65
Figure 3.5-19: Dyeing process for white ................................................................................. 66
Figure 3.5-20: Dyeing process for 100% polyester ................................................................. 66
Figure 3.5-21: Dyeing process of 95% viscose + 5% elastane ................................................ 67
Figure 3.5-22: Dyeing process for CVC (50% Cotton 50% polyester) ................................... 68
Figure 3.6-1: Finishing floor in FTML .................................................................................... 74
Figure 3.6-2: General flow chart of finishing .......................................................................... 75
Figure 3.6-3: Flow Chart of finishing for Collar/Cuff ............................................................. 75
Figure 3.6-4: Flow Chart of finishing for Lycra and Synthetic (Polyester) fabric .................. 75
Figure 3.6-5: Flow Chart of finishing when Peach/Brushing process require ......................... 76
Figure 3.6-6: Slitting machine parts and material passage diagram ........................................ 77
Figure 3.6-7: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Stenter machine ..................... 80
Figure 3.6-8: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Compacting machine (Santex)
.................................................................................................................................................. 81
Figure 3.6-9: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Peach machine ....................... 82
Figure 3.6-10: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Brushing machine ................ 83
Figure 3.6-11: Cutting point of shearing machine ................................................................... 84
Figure 3.6-12: Continuous Washing Machine ......................................................................... 85
Figure 3.6-13: Quality Control Flow Chart ............................................................................. 88
Figure 3.7-1: Fabric relaxation process flow chart .................................................................. 89
Figure 3.7-2: Flow Chart of Cutting Section ........................................................................... 90
Figure 3.7-3: Automatic Fabric Spreading Machine................................................................ 92
Figure 3.7-4: Fabric cutting with Automatic Machine (Lectra) ............................................... 92
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Figure 3.7-5: Numbering and Bundling ................................................................................... 93

Figure 3.7-6: Quality inspection and Re-cut ............................................................................ 93
Figure 3.7-7: Organogram of Cutting Section ......................................................................... 94
Figure 3.7-8: Organogram of Sewing Section ......................................................................... 95
Figure 3.7-9: Flow Chart of Sewing Section ........................................................................... 95
Figure 3.7-10: a) Sewing floor in FTML (Total 29 sewing line in unit-1) b)Different baskets
use during sewing quality c) Green light for Electrical servicing and Yellow light for
Maintenance d) G-Trap used in Ironing ................................................................................. 98
Figure 3.7-11: a) Plain machine b) Two thread chain stitch c) Bartack Machine d) Kansai
special e) 5 thread flatlock f) 4 thread overlock g) Button attaching machine h)
Button hole machine ................................................................................................................ 99
Figure 3.7-12: Flow chart of Finishing (After Sewing) ......................................................... 100
Figure 3.7-13: a) Ironing b) Quality check c) Hangtag attachment d) Folding e) Poly
pack f) Garment keep in basket (according to size) ............................................................. 101
Figure 3.7-14: Flow chart of Packaging unit ......................................................................... 101
Figure 3.8-1: Circular and Oval Printing Machine ................................................................ 103
Figure 3.8-2: Manual Printing Table ...................................................................................... 103
Figure 3.8-3: Process Flow Diagram of Printing Section ...................................................... 104
Figure 3.8-4: Process of screen preparation ........................................................................... 105
Figure 3.8-5: a) White and clearer mixing b) Color addition c) Drying d) Matching ..... 106
Figure 3.8-6: Types of printing done in FTML ...................................................................... 107
Figure 3.9-1: Process flow of Water Treatment Plant ............................................................ 108
Figure 3.9-2: WTP Plant in FTML (Pump, Oxidation tank and Multigrade sand filter) ....... 108
Figure 3.9-3: WTP Plant in FTML (Softener filter and Salt tank for re-generation) ............. 109
Figure 3.9-4: Re-generation process in WTP ........................................................................ 109
Figure 3.10-1: Inlet of ETP .................................................................................................... 110
Figure 3.10-2: Working flow chart of ETP (in FTML) .......................................................... 111
Figure 3.10-3: Anaerobic(left) and Aerobic(right) tank ......................................................... 112
Figure 3.10-4: Sedimentation tank (left side) and ETP outlet (right side) ............................. 112
Figure 3.11-1: Cochran boiler ................................................................................................ 114
Figure 3.11-2: Exhaust Gas boiler (EGB) .............................................................................. 115
Figure 3.11-3: Gas generator ................................................................................................. 116
Figure 3.11-4: Compressor .................................................................................................... 117
Figure 3.11-5: Rooftop solar panels ....................................................................................... 118
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List of Tables

Table 3.2-1: List of Circular Knitting Machines (Unit-1and 2) ............................................... 15

Table 3.2-3: Knitted Fabric Faults and Remedies .................................................................... 37
Table 3.4-1: Some others machines used in physical lab......................................................... 47
Table 3.4-2: Machines used in Chemical Lab .......................................................................... 48
Table 3.4-3: Calculation of Glauber salt and Soda ash in lab dip ............................................ 52
Table 3.5-1: Dyeing Machine Specification ............................................................................ 54
Table 3.5-2: Dyes used during our internship .......................................................................... 55
Table 3.5-3: Trade name Vs. Chemical name .......................................................................... 55
Table 3.5-4: Flowchart of Dyeing process ............................................................................... 62
Table 3.5-5: Dyeing Faults and Remedies ............................................................................... 72
Table 3.6-1: Finishing machineries .......................................................................................... 76
Table 3.6-2: Light source for inspection (for top 10 buyer)..................................................... 87
Table 3.6-3: Grading fot faults (for top 10 buyer) ................................................................... 88
Table 3.6-4: Point for faults in 4-Point method ....................................................................... 88
Table 3.7-1: Relaxation time for different type of fabric ......................................................... 90
Table 3.7-2: Operation Breakdown for Basic T-Shirt .............................................................. 96
Table 3.7-3: Operation Breakdown for Trouser (Solid) ........................................................... 97
Table 3.7-4: Needle Measurement ......................................................................................... 100
Table 3.10-1: Different parameters of ETP (FTML).............................................................. 113
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1 Introduction:

1.1 Objective

A textile internship program bridges the gap between classroom learning and real-world
experience. Interns will gain hands-on exposure to different stages of production, from
spinning and weaving to dyeing and finishing. This will deepen their understanding of textile
manufacturing and prepare them for the fast-paced factory environment. The program also
equips interns with technical skills like operating machinery and quality control. Additionally,
they'll develop soft skills crucial for the industry.

In addition to technical skills, the program focuses on soft skills like teamwork,
communication, and time management. These are essential for carrier of interns. Interns will
also learn about responsible production system, including following regulations, ethical
practices, and sustainability. This fosters environmental awareness. Finally, the internship
provides networking opportunities with industry professionals, potentially leading to jobs or
mentorships. It's a springboard for growth in the textile field.

1.2 Scope

Section covered Days Date

Yarn Storage 1 2/1/2024
Grey Fabric Storage 1 3/1/2024
Knitting 10 4/1/2024 - 21/1/2024
Dyeing Lab (Physical and
3 22/1/2024 - 24/1/2024
Chemical)
Dyeing 11 25/1/2024 - 7/2/2024
Finishing 7 8/2/2024 - 17/2/2024
Garments and Printing 6+2 18/2/2024 – 28/2/2024
Utility and ETP 1 29/2/2024
 2

2 Overview of Organization

Urmi Group is actively redefining the Bangladeshi readymade garments industry's standards
of production performance, innovation and growth. With eco-friendly and green production
facilities, which leave a minimum carbon footprint in the environment. Providing over 14000
employment opportunities with total investment exceeds US$ 90 million.

Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd (FTML) is one of the major concerns of Urmi Group which
include fabric manufacturing to apparel manufacturing.

2.1 Factory Profile

Name of Group Urmi Group

Name of Company Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.
BGMEA Reg. No. 4596
BKMEA membership number 678
Membership type Ordinary member
Year of registration 09-03-2003
Status Private Limited Company
Type 100% export oriented knit composite mill
Year of establishment 2003
Year of starting production 2004

Managing Director Asif Ashraf

OFFICER and
UNIT WORKER TOTAL
STAFF
FTML Garments 1098 4766 5864
FTML Textile 652 1416 2068
Total Manpower 1140 6182 7932
 3

2.2 Factory Location

FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED (FTML)

Ghargaria Master Bari, Kewa, Sreepur, Gazipur.

Corporate Location:

SAM Tower, Floor: 2nd to 5th, House - 4, Road - 22,

Gulshan -1, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

2.3 Production capacity

Unit Capacity/Day
Garments 80000 pieces
Knitting 33,000 kg
Finishing 50,000 kg
Dyeing 35,000 kg

2.4 Business Figure

EXPORT BY REGION – 2023

Europe Asia (Other than JAPAN) Japan USA

6%
7%
8%

79%
 4

EXPORT 2023 SHARE%

OTHERS 16%
TCHIBO 2%
SANMAR, CANADA 3%
ERNSTING'S FAMILY 5%
AUCHAN 6%
GU 8%
DECATHLON 10%
PUMA 19%
M & S 31%

FABRIC MIX-2023
CVC/PC/Viscose/Cotton-Viscos Polyester/Polyester Elastane Cotton/Cotton Elastane

30%

62%
8%

TURNOVER URMI GROUP($M)

290.00
280.00
228.00
173.00
168.00

150.00
149.00
126.00
105.00
97.00
74.00

74.00
68.00
62.00
48.00

42.00
26.00
21.00
12.00

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023
 5

2.5 Customers

2.6 Company Certifications and Awards

 6

2.7 Mission Vision

Statement: “As part of our continuous improvement (CI), we have identified our guiding lights
for the future. We believe having clarity on the purpose and mission of the company will help
us to reach our goals more conclusively.”

Urmi Group Purpose, mission and values “IMPACT”

I- Integrity,

M- Mutual Trust,

P- Passion for Excellence,

A- Agility,

C- Customer Focus,

T- Teamwork and Co-operation

 7

3 Area of Studies

3.1 Yarn Storage Section

Yarn Storage meet all the supply and demand of the yarns from the knitting section. Yarn
storage meet all the requisition from the knitting and also made forecasting decision about yarn
storage. Yarn store manage supply and demands of raw materials and prepare reports.

Figure 3.1-1: Yarn Storage in FTML

 8

3.1.1 Capacity

FTML has total four yarn storage unit inside the factory premise. Total capacity is 2,200 ton. A
new unit is also under construction with 4,000-ton capacity. Automation and robotic inventory
system for transportation will be introduced at the new unit.

3.1.2 Process

Yarn package is stored according to their lot numbers and yarn types. With the combination of
ERP software and RFID yarns are stored in the racks. Yarns packages are given RFID tag
number and input is given in the ERP software. Then rack number is selected for the yarn
package and the package is stored.

Merchandiser: Received the Order from Fabric Merchandiser: Purchasing

Buyer and Build plan for order Requisition
execution

Supplier sent PI Sourcing yarn Supply Chain: Collect the details of yarn
(Performa from supplier and make decision about yarn quality and
Invoice) pricing according buyer’s demand

Supply Chain: Sample Yarn is Received. Yarn Store: Yarn Package

Yarn purchase RandD department heck the received form the supplier
order is placed quality paraments of the yarn. (Chalan). [Crossmatched with PI]

Knitting: Storage of Yarn Packages are RFID tagged and

Requisition for yarn input is given in ERP.

Yarn Store: Supply of Yarn is delivered to

yarn according to Priority Knitting
list
 9

3.1.3 Yarn Delivery Procedure:

For Delivering yarn to knitting Kanban board is used for prioritizing need for yarn packages.
FIFO (First in Forst Out) inventory system is maintained. ‘Lean’ is practiced in the yarn
delivery.

Priority Creel Card

Machine wise Creel Card

Figure 3.1-2: Kanban board

 10

Procedure for Kanban Post:

Demand Reference
Received Check

Kanban Card Making

Priority Received Kanban Card Received from Priority

Yarn Collection

ERP Update

Bin Card Update RFID detach

Yarn Creel Ready and Delivery

Receive Check and Demand Fill
up

Figure 3.1-3: Procedure for Kanban Post

 11

3.1.4 Pie chart to represent different types of data

30/1 28/1
18% 14%
34/1
8%

32/1 24/1
21% 7%

27/1
7%

Others
3%
40/1
7%
20D
1% 75D/72F
75D/36F 4%
18/1 10/1 150D/144F 20/1 26/1
1% 1% 4%
1% 1% 2%

Figure 3.1-4: Various count percentage used in FTML

75D/72F
57%

150D/144F
19%

Others
2%
75D/36F
150D/288F 12%
50D/36F 100D/144F 50D/72F
1%
3% 3% 3%

Figure 3.1-5: Polyester yarn count(D) percentage used in FTML

 12

20D
83%

Others
1%
40D
3% 70D 30D
5% 8%

Figure 3.1-6: Lycra yarn count(D) percentage used in FTML

Melange Polyester Ring Spun Recycle CVC

4% 4% 3% 3% Soft Vortex
5%
2%
Carded Compact
5%
Others
13%
Carded
15%

Combed Compact
46%

Figure 3.1-7: Top 10 yarn type percentage used in FTML

 13

(100% BCI Cotton)

52%

(100% Cotton)
15%

Others
13%

(90% BCI Cotton (100% SD DTY SIM

10% Viscose) Polyester)
1% 6%
(60% BCI Cotton (60% Cotton 40%
(100% BCI Combed
40% Recylcle Compact Cotton) (100% CMIA (100% Organic Polyester)
Polyester) Cotton) Cotton) 6%
2% 2%
1% 2%

Figure 3.1-8: Top 10 yarn composition percentage used in FTML

PT. EMBEE
PLUMBON TEKSTIL
OTHERS 14%
45% BVM OVERSEAS LTD
10%

MATIN SPINNING ASIA COMPOSITE

MILLS LTD MILL LTD.
2% 8%
FUJIAN CYCLONE NITIN SPINNERS
NRG SPINNING RMT Textile Mills Sudiva Spinners
TRADING CO.,LTD. LTD.
MILLS LTD Ltd. Private Ltd.
3% 6%
3% 3% 6%
Figure 3.1-9: Top 10 yarn suppliers’ percentage in FTML
 14

PUMA
22%
MnS
24% GU
21%

Others
4% PEPCO
9%
LAREDOUTE
2%
SANMAR CANADA
FULL BEAUTY E. FAMILY AUCHAN 5%
3% 5% 5%

Figure 3.1-10: Top 10 buyers’ percentage in FTML

3.2 Knitting Section

3.2.1 Introduction:

In Knitting Department, FTML knit the foundation of their bondage among Buyers, Suppliers
and Employees with intangible loops, because when FTML knit accurate fabrics, they knit
relationship tight. Their advanced and environment-friendly Circular and Flat knit machines
are the keys in producing cost-effective fabrics like varieties of S/J with Cotton/ CVC/ PC/
Injected/ Siro/ 100% Polyester/ Viscose Yarn and varieties of Pique / Lacoste, French Terry,
Loop back Fleece, Various types of Rib: 1x1, 2x1, Variegated, Waffle, Mesh, Dropped Needle,
Spandex, Plain and Separation Interlock, Plaited, Yarn Dyed, Fancy Design Fabrics and
different types of Collar Cuff, Neck and Bottom, etc.
 15

3.2.2 Organogram of Knitting Section

Assistant Senior Manager

Deputy General Deputy
General (Head of
Manager Manager
Manager knitting section)

Assistant Senior
Executive Junior Executive
Manager Executive

Group Team
Team Leader Operator
Leader

Figure 3.2-1: Organogram of Knitting Section

3.2.3 Machines

M/c Type Origin Brand No of M/c Dia(inch) Gauge

Japan FUKUHARA 30 26,30,32,34,36,38 24
Single Jersey China JIUNN LONG 4 32,34 28
Taiwan SANTONI 22 28,30,32,34,36,38 24
Single Jersey
Taiwan LISKY 8 30 20
(Fleece)
PAI LUNG 16 32,34 24,28,32,40
Double Jersey Taiwan
JIUNN LONG 1 40 18
PAI LUNG 10 34,36,40,42 18,24
Double Jersey Taiwan
JIUNN LONG 3 40,42 18
(RIB)
Japan FUKUHARA 1 36 18
Total 96

Table 3.2-1: List of Circular Knitting Machines (Unit-1and 2)

 16

3.2.4 Machine Parts and Working Principle

Creel Stand: Creel Stand is used to hold cone packages. The cones are
placed on a metallic stick, known as a cone holder. Magazine creel is
used in this industry, allowing for easy tying of the tail of one package Cone package

to the leading end of the next package to keep production running even
when a cone package is finished.
Creel Stand

Figure 3.2-2: Creel stand

Anti-friction Pipe (Aluminum Telescopic Tube): Smoothly pass the yarn from the cone package
to the positive feeder.

Anti-friction pipe

Figure 3.2-3: Aluminum Telescopic Tube

Positive Feeder: Positive feeder is designed to prevent loop-shape and loop-length variation by
positively providing yarn to the knitting point at the appropriate rate and under low yarn
tension.
 17

• Knot catcher: Catch the knot (present in the yarn) and immediately stop the machine.
• Magnetic tensioner: Give a certain tension to the yarn.
• Sensor – 1: Present before the yarn accumulator. If yarn breakage or loosing occurs,
sensor-1 move downward as a result indicator light up as well as stop the machine
instantly.
• Ceramic guide: Guide the yarn to wind into accumulator of the positive feeder.
• Yarn accumulator: Deposit a certain amount of yarn for delivering to the needle.
• Guide: Another guide present after yarn accumulator which guide the yarn to pass
through the sensor-2.
• Sensor – 2: Present after yarn accumulator and function same as sensor-1.
• Ring type ceramic guide: Guide the yarn to the ring guide.

Knot catcher

Magnetic tensioner

Sensor – 1
Sensor – 2
Ceramic guide

Yarn accumulator

Guide

Ring type
ceramic guide

Figure 3.2-4: Different Parts of Positive Feeder

Ring guide: Smoothly pass the yarn to the feeder.

 18

Fans: Helps to clean dust, removes lint, hairy fiber from yarn, and others part of machine.

Fan

Ring guide

Figure 3.2-5: Ring guide and Fan

Feeder: Feed the yarn to the needle. Lycra guide

Feeder
Lycra Guide (attached to the feeder): Guide the lycra yarn to the
needle.

Figure 3.2-6: Feeder and Lycra guide

Lycra Feeder: This attachment is used for

delivering lycra yarn. Belt wheels are present
in this attachment which is connected with the
delivery rollers.

Figure 3.2-7: Lycra feeder

 19

Needle: The main function of needle is loop formation.

Figure 3.2-8: Latch needle

Sinker: The main function of sinker on latch needle weft knitting machine to hold down the old
loops at a lower level on the needle stems than the new loops which are being formed and
prevent the old loops from being lifted as the needles rise to clear them from their hooks.

Needle

Cylinder

Sinker
Sinker trick ring

Figure 3.2-9: Sinker and Sinker trick ring

Sinker Trick Ring: Sinkers are placed into this ring.

 20

Cylinder: It rotates continuously and creates a seamless tube of knitted fabric with the
needles. There are tricks in the cylinder where needles are placed. In most cases, latch
needles are used with various butt positions.

Dial: If a circular knitting machine has only one set of needles, the bed is referred to as the
cylinder, while the second bed is known as the dial.

Dial portion

Dial

Cylinder portion

Figure 3.2-10: Cylinder and Dial of circular knitting machine

Cam Box: Cams are placed in the cam box.

Figure 3.2-11: Cam box

Cam: Angular knitting cam gives path for needle movement. Needle butt pass through the
stationary cam system (revolving cylinder machines) or the cams pass across the stationary
tricks (reciprocating cam box flat machines or rotating cam- box circular machines).
 21

Tuck cam

Knit cam Miss cam

Figure 3.2-12: Different types of cam

VDQ Pulley: VDQ means Variable Diameter for Quality. This pulley is known as a VDQ pulley
because it regulates the GSM and stitch length during the knitting process to control the quality
of knitted fabric. VDQ pulley also known as Quality Adjustment Pulley (QAP) or Quality
Adjustment Disk (QAD). The pulley is moved toward the positive direction to increase fabric
GSM and toward the opposite direction to decrease fabric GSM. The scrolled segments are
moved by rotating the upper plate with helical groove that allows the scrolled segments to
travel radially resulting in changed path of the toothed belt.

Stitch Stitch Stitch Stitch

VDQ pulley GSM GSM
length length density density
Diameter increase decrease
increase decrease increase decrease
Increase √ √ √
Decrease √ √ √

Figure 3.2-13: VDQ Pulley

 22

Motor: It is the main device which rotate the cylinder by transmission the motion.

Control Panel: There are control panel and monitor to check RPM, counter etc.

Motor pulley

Control panel

Figure 3.2-14: Motor and Control panel

.

Oil Pipe: Spray and circulate oil from certain positions.

Air Nozzle: Give air flow into inner parts of machine.

Oil pipe

Air nozzle

Figure 3.2-15: Oil pipe and Air nozzle

 23

Switches: There are certain switches to run, stop or jog.

Figure 3.2-16: Switches

Needle Detector: The Needle Detector in a circular knitting machine is used to detect any
broken or missing needles during the knitting process, ensuring the quality and integrity of the
fabric being produced.

Needle detector

Figure 3.2-17: Needle detector

 24

Cutting Motor or Knife: The cutting motor or knife of a circular knitting machine is employed
to convert tubular fabric in an open width format.

Cutting motor

Knife

Figure 3.2-18: Knife and Cutting motor

Air Gun: Use it for cleaning purpose and also for feeding the yarn into the anti-friction tube.

Figure 3.2-19: Air gun

 25

3.2.5 Production Calculation and Case Study

Purpose: This study was done to find out the actual production(kg) of machine and compare
it with the theoretical production calculation formula. Time study was done to find out the
actual machine active time.

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝟔𝟎

Production (Kg) per hour = 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

Actual production (Kg/hour) = (Production (Kg) per hour * Efficiency)

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]

Production (Kg) per min = 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

# Case Study 1: Machine No 24:

Actual production calculation:

a) Program: 5*2 Rib
b) Count of yarn-1: 32 Ne (60%Cotton and 40% Viscose)
c) Count of yarn-2: 20D (100% Elastane)
d) Stitch length for yarn-1: 3.15
e) Stitch length for yarn-2: 1.15
f) Feeder: 84
g) RPM: 12
h) Machine diameter: 42
i) Machine gauge: 18

• New roll production start at: 4:44pm

• Roll complete at: 7:09pm
• Total time needed to complete the roll: 145min
 26

Machine Stoppage during production:

Cause Time
1) Yarn breakage from feeder 34 sec
2) Check tension of take-up 18 sec
3) Lycra breakage occur 1 min 24 sec
4) Lycra breakage occur 46 sec
5) Check quality of knitted fabric and attach sticker 48 sec
6) Lycra breakage from lycra feeder 12 sec
7) Lycra breakage from lycra feeder 27 sec
8) Rearrange of cone package 56 sec
9) Check yarn tension 20 sec
10) Lycra breakage occur 12 sec
11) Machine off due to patta problem 35 min 58 sec
12) Yarn breakage from feeder 1 min 5 sec
13) Loose lycra yarn during air flow 9 sec
14) Yarn breakage from feeder 50 sec
Total = 44 min

Total machine running time: 145min – 44min = 101min

After production weight of the roll was: 17.09 kg (Actual roll weight)
Theoretical production calculation:
Now,
Production (Kg) per min (For Cotton)
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝟕
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟒𝟐 ∗ 𝟏𝟖) ∗ ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
𝟔
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝟕
𝟏𝟐 ∗ 𝟖𝟒 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟒𝟐 ∗ 𝟏𝟖) ∗ ∗ 𝟑.𝟏𝟓]
𝟔
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟑𝟐 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

= 0.162366 kg/min

Production (Kg) per min (For Elastane)

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
 27

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓

= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
𝟕
𝟏𝟐 ∗ 𝟖𝟒 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟒𝟐 ∗ 𝟏𝟖) ∗ ∗ 𝟏.𝟏𝟓] ∗ 𝟐𝟎
𝟔
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎

= 0.0071378 kg/min

Total Production (kg/min) = (0.162366 + 0.0071378) kg/min

= 0.1695038 kg/min
As Total machine running time = 101 min
Production(kg) for 101 min will be = (0.1695038 * 101) kg
= 17.11 kg (Equivalent to actual production or roll weight)

# Case Study 2: Machine No 25:

Actual production calculation:

a) Program: 1*1 Rib
b) Count of yarn-1: 30 Ne (Cotton, Full feeder)
c) Count of yarn-2: 55D (Elastane, Half feeder)
d) Stitch length for yarn-1: 2.8
e) Stitch length for yarn-2: 1.18
f) Feeder: 72
g) RPM: 15
h) Machine diameter: 36
i) Machine gauge: 18

• New roll production start at: 5:17pm

• Roll complete at: 7:19pm
• Total time needed to complete the roll: 122 min
 28

Machine Stoppage during production:

Cause Time
1) Yarn breakage from cone (Operator was gone to take weight of 4 min 36 sec
previous roll)
2) Yarn breakage from cone 1 min 17 sec
3) Yarn breakage from feeder (Absence of operator due to problem 10 min 4 sec
of another m/c of his liability)
4) Yarn breakage from cone 1 min 15 sec
5) Yarn breakage from cone 46 sec
6) Yarn breakage from cone 58 sec
7) Yarn breakage from cone (Loose yarn) 1 min 15 sec
8) Yarn breakage from cone (Loose yarn) 42 sec
9) Yarn breakage from cone 1 min 7 sec
Total = 22 min

Total machine running time: 122min – 22min = 100min

After production weight of the roll was: 25.68 kg (Actual roll weight)

Theoretical production calculation:

Now,
Production (Kg) per min (For Cotton)
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟔 ∗ 𝟏𝟖) ∗ 𝟐 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝟏𝟓 ∗ 𝟕𝟐 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟔 ∗ 𝟏𝟖) ∗ 𝟐 ∗ 𝟐.𝟖]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

= 0.242365 kg/min

Production (Kg) per min (For Elastane)

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
 29

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓

= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
𝟕𝟐
𝟏𝟓 ∗ ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟔 ∗ 𝟏𝟖) ∗ 𝟐 ∗ 𝟏.𝟏𝟖] ∗ 𝟓𝟓
𝟐
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎

= 0.015854 kg/min

Total Production (kg/min) = (0.242365 + 0.015854) kg/min

= 0.258219 kg/min
As Total machine running time = 100 min
Production(kg) for 100 min will be = (0.258219 * 100) kg
= 25.82 kg (Equivalent to actual production or roll weight)

# Case Study 3: Machine No 08:

Actual production calculation:

a) Program: Fleece Inside Brush
b) Count of yarn-1 (Knit): 30 Ne (CVC 60/40)
c) Count of yarn-2 (Binding): 75D (100% Polyester)
d) Count of yarn-3 (Loop): 20 Ne (CVC 60/40)
e) Stitch length for yarn-1 (Knit): 4.7mm
f) Stitch length for yarn-2 (Binding): 3.2mm
g) Stitch length for yarn-3 (Loop): 2mm
h) Feeder: 30+30+30
i) RPM: 16
j) Machine diameter: 30
k) Machine gauge: 20

• New roll production start at: 3:10pm

• Roll complete at: 4:17pm
• Total time needed to complete the roll: 67 min
 30

Machine Stoppage during production:

Cause Time
1) Yarn breakage from cone 59 sec
2) Yarn breakage from feeder 30 sec
3) Yarn breakage from feeder 28 sec
Total = 1 min 57 sec
(~ 2 min)

Total machine running time: 67min – 2min = 65min

After production weight of the roll was: 10.37 kg (Actual roll weight)

Theoretical production calculation:

Now,
Production (Kg) per min (For Knit)
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ 𝟐𝟎) ∗ 𝟒.𝟕]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

= 0.083709 kg/min

Production (Kg) per min (For Binding)

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓

= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ 𝟐𝟎) ∗ 𝟑.𝟐] ∗ 𝟕𝟓
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎

= 0.024127 kg/min

Production (Kg) per min (For Loop)

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝑵𝒆 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
 31

𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟎 ∗ 𝟐𝟎) ∗ 𝟐]
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟐𝟎 ∗ 𝟖𝟒𝟎 ∗ 𝟎.𝟗𝟏𝟒𝟒 ∗ 𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

= 0.053431 kg/min

Total Production (kg/min) = (0.083709 + 0.024127 + 0.053431) kg/min

= 0.161267 kg/min
As Total machine running time = 65 min
Production(kg) for 65 min will be = (0.161267 * 65) kg
= 10.48 kg (Equivalent to actual production or roll weight)

# Case Study 4:
Program: 1*1 Interlock
Count of yarn: 75D (100% Polyester)
Stitch length of yarn: 1.18
Feeder: 72
RPM: 14
Machine diameter: 34
Machine gauge: 24

Production (Kg) per hour

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒘𝒂𝒍𝒆𝒔 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝟔𝟎 ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎

𝑹𝑷𝑴 ∗ 𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒇𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓 ∗ [𝑵𝒐 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒗𝒆 𝒏𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒍𝒆 ∗ 𝑺𝒕𝒊𝒕𝒄𝒉 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉(𝒎𝒎)] ∗ 𝟔𝟎 ∗ 𝒅𝒆𝒏𝒊𝒆𝒓

= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
𝟐
𝟏𝟒 ∗ 𝟕𝟐 ∗ [(𝟑.𝟏𝟒𝟏𝟔 ∗ 𝟑𝟒 ∗ 𝟐𝟒)∗ ∗ 𝟏.𝟏𝟖] ∗ 𝟔𝟎 ∗ 𝟕𝟓
𝟐
= 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗ 𝟗𝟎𝟎𝟎 ∗𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎

= 1.5246 kg/hour
 32

3.2.6 Case Study to Calculate Efficiency of machine

Here time study was done to calculate the efficiency of the machine. Form the time study
active machine time was found out, the counter was calculated to find out the efficiency.

# Case Study 1:
• Machine No: 04
• RPM: 30
• Operator Name: Md. Faruq Mia
• ID: KHE****
• Initial Counter in machine: 1030
Machine Stoppage:
Cause Time
1) Aside the accumulate knitted fabric from the center of take-up 2 min 15 sec
zone and Cone package knotting
2) Yarn breakage from cone 48 sec
3) Yarn breakage from cone 42 sec
4) Unknown 14 sec
5) Change cone package with new one 1 min 39 sec
6) Change cone package with new one 39 sec
7) Yarn breakage from cone 43 sec
8) Change cone package with new one 50 sec
9) Change cone package with new one 56 sec
10) Yarn breakage from cone 45 sec
11) Yarn breakage from cone 45 sec
12) Yarn breakage from cone 43 sec
13) Cone package replace 19 sec
14) Yarn breakage from cone 1 min 13 sec
15) Replace cone package with new one 1 min 39 sec
16) Yarn breakage from cone 50 sec
17) Yarn breakage from positive feeder 34 sec
18) Replace cone package with new one 57 sec
19) Yarn breakage from cone 1 min 36 sec
 33

20) Yarn breakage from cone 47 sec

21) Yarn breakage from cone 46 sec
22) Replace cone package with new one 58 sec
23) Replace cone package with new one 55 sec
24) Cone package replace 13 sec
25) Yarn breakage 29 sec
26) Yarn breakage from cone 45 sec
Total = 23 min

After 1hour (60mim) Counter: 2141 (Final counter)

Actual counter (According to Time Study) = (Actual run time * RPM)

= (60 – 23) * 30)
= 1110
Actual counter (According to Monitor) = Final counter – Initial counter
= 2141 – 1030
= 1111

𝑨𝒄𝒕𝒖𝒂𝒍 𝒄𝒐𝒖𝒏𝒕𝒆𝒓
Efficiency (According to Time Study) = 𝑻𝒂𝒓𝒈𝒆𝒕 𝒄𝒐𝒖𝒏𝒕𝒆𝒓 ∗ 𝟏𝟎𝟎

(𝟔𝟎 − 𝟐𝟑) ∗ 𝟑𝟎
= ∗ 𝟏𝟎𝟎
𝟔𝟎 ∗ 𝟑𝟎

= 61.67%

𝑨𝒄𝒕𝒖𝒂𝒍 𝒄𝒐𝒖𝒏𝒕𝒆𝒓
Efficiency (According to Counter) = 𝑻𝒂𝒓𝒈𝒆𝒕 𝒄𝒐𝒖𝒏𝒕𝒆𝒓 ∗ 𝟏𝟎𝟎

𝟐𝟏𝟒𝟏 − 𝟏𝟎𝟑𝟎
= ∗ 𝟏𝟎𝟎
𝟔𝟎 ∗ 𝟑𝟎

= 61.72%
 34

# Case Study 2:
• Machine No: 27
• RPM: 4.6
• Operator Name: Md. Sultan Ahmed
• ID: KOP****
• Initial Counter in machine: 1150
Machine Stoppage:
Cause Time
1) Yarn breakage from feeder 38 sec
2) Unknown 07 sec
3) Yarn breakage from cone 1 min 40 sec
4) Aside the accumulate knitted fabric from the center of take-up 1 min 46 sec
zone
Total = 4 min 11 sec

After 1hour (60mim) Counter: 1407 (Final counter)

Actual counter (According to Time Study) = (Actual run time * RPM)

= (60 – 4.183) * 4.6)
= 256.758
Actual counter (According to Monitor) = Final counter – Initial counter
= 1407 – 1150
= 257

𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑟
Efficiency (According to Time Study) = 𝑇𝑎𝑟𝑔𝑒𝑡 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑟 ∗ 100

(60 − 4.183) ∗ 4.6

= ∗ 100
60 ∗ 4.6

= 93.028%

𝐴𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑟
Efficiency (According to Counter) = 𝑇𝑎𝑟𝑔𝑒𝑡 𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑟 ∗ 100

1407 − 1150
= ∗ 100
60 ∗ 4.6

= 93.116%
 35

3.2.7 Knitted Fabric Faults and Remedies

Faults Causes Remedies Picture

01 Loop - Tension variation. - Change faulty yarn.
- Due to faulty yarn. - Tension correction.
- Dust. - Machine clean.

02 Hole - Yarn fault - Change faulty yarn.

(Irregularity, knot).
- Ensure uniform yarn
- Tension variation. tension on all the
feeders with a Tension
- Due to damage
Meter.
yarn.
- The gap between the
- Machine problem.
Cylinder and Dial
should be correctly
adjusted as per the
knitted loop size.
03 Barre - Due yarn: - Ensure uniform Yarn
mark / (Count variation, Tension on all the
Patta Lot mixing, feeders.
Yarn mixing)
- The average Count
- Yarn tension variation in the lot
variation. should not be more
than ±0.3
- Due to cam setting

04 Dia - Trapping between - Observation of take

mark take up roller up roller.

- Long time fabric

roll storage.
 36

05 Oil - Bad lubrication - Proper lubrication

spot system of the system of the machine.
machine.
- Carefully insertion of
- Improper oil oil from outside of the
insertion from the machine.
outside of machine.
- Well maintenance as
- When oil licks well as proper oiling.
through the needle
trick then it passes
on the fabrics.

06 Lycra - Fail to catch the - Ensure the feed of

out Lycra yarn by the lycra yarn to every
needle. needle.

- Low tension of - The tension of lycra

Lycra yarn. yarn should be
uniform.
- Lycra yarn
breakage.

07 Fly - Presence of fibers, - Rigid control

conta husk and other measures in the blow
foreign materials room to prevent the
mixing of foreign
- Foreign material matters in the cotton
of fiber from mixing.
adjacent machines
- Keeping the machines
covered with thick
extruded curtain to
prevent mixing.

08 Slub - Due to slub yarn. - Have to use slubless

yarn or less slub-
- Dust or fly containing yarn.
deposits on the yarn
during knitting. - Have to use air
blower and suction
pipe.
 37

09 Stop - Due to sudden - Don’t stop machine

mark stop of machine. unnecessarily.

- Change of yarn
lot.

10 Cotton - Due to attach of - Proper clean of cam

knit loose fiber with box and other parts of
fabric with the help machine during
of oil. servicing.
- Use of air gun to
clean machine.

11 Drawn - Yarn fault. -M/C clean.

loop
- M/C Tension -Uniform tension.
Variation.
- Change needle if
- Latch not clearly required.
opened.
- Dust.

12 Pin - Improper tension. - Tension correction.

hole
- Curved latch of - Change needle.
the needle.

13 Set off - Yarn end breakage - Needle detectors,

on feeders. should be set precisely.
- Tension variation. - Proper yarn tension
should be maintained,
- When yarn feeder
on all the feeders.
remains in a lifted-
up position. - Yarn need to feed
manually by m/c
jogging motion.
Table 3.2-2: Knitted Fabric Faults and Remedies
 38

3.2.8 SWOT Analysis

Strengths
• Customization: ability to create unique design (Innovation team).
• Flexibility: Adapt to produce different type of fabric by changing cylinder.
• Digital quality control: Adapt “Smart Tex” which check the quality of fabric before
take-up.

Weaknesses
• Limited scalability: Production capacity is not enough according to demand (seasonal
demand).
• Quality control: Producing fabric with new design sometimes require significant time
and effort to ensure they meet quality standards.
• Production loss: One operator managing multiple machines may result in production
loss due to delays in attending to yarn breakage or other issues, particularly when they
need to cut fabric roll and have to weigh roll of one machine.

Opportunities
• Technology adoption: Adapt “Smart Tex” in all machine for online quality check.
• Allocating specific machines for innovation purpose can foster creativity and expedite
the development of new products and designs, enhancing the company’s competitive
edge.

Threats
• Raw material costs: Fluctuations in the price of yarn can impact profitability.
• Expanding the number of machines to meet seasonal demand may result in idle
capacity during off-peak periods.
• Adaptation of “Smart Tex” in quality check poses a threat of job displacement for
workers engaged in manual fabric quality inspection, potentially leading to workforce
restructuring and socio-economic challenges in the community.
• Competitors or unauthorized parties may replicate unique designs leading to loss of
market share and revenue.
• Economic instability: Fluctuations in currency exchange rates, inflation, or global
economic downturns may impact consumer purchasing power.
 39

3.3 Grey Store

After knitting the fabric are stored in the grey store. The grey fabrics are stored in the rack with
rack numbers. The finished fabric rolls from the knitting are identified with RFID tags. So,
when the fabric rolls from the knitting comes to the grey store they are scanned by RFID
scanners. The worker then input the information and assigned the rack slot for the fabric rolls.

Figure 3.3-1: RFID Scanner scans the fabric rolls

Figure 3.3-2: RFID Scanner

 40

3.3.1 Capacity of Grey Store

Capacity of the grey store: 140 tons.

Rack load capacity: 3520 KG

Rack load Dimension: 8″×8″

3.3.2 Application of RFID

The fabric rolls are tagged with RFID chips. So, when there is necessity of finding particular
fabric rolls it can easily be done by RFID scanner. By inputting the RFID number, the scanner
can detect the location of the fabric rolls.

Figure 3.3-3: RFID Tags Scanning

Figure 3.3-4: RFID Tag tracing

The RFID scanning device can be easily connected with a smartphone.

 41

3.3.3 Fabric Super Market

The grey fabric rolls are sent for the batching by use of conveyer belts. The conveyer belt save
extra motion and make transportation easy. When there is a demand call from the dyeing
department the fabrics rolls are prepared according to the batch.

Figure 3.3-5: Batch Requisition (ENDOL Call)

Kanban post is prepared according to the priority list of dyeing machine or finishing machine
as required. According to priority the fabric rolls are collected and the RFID tags are scanned
and sent to the batching department.

Figure 3.3-6: Conveyer belt for transportation

 42

3.4 Lab

There are 2 types of laboratories in FTML. They are

• Physical Lab
• Chemical Lab

Sample received from RandD / Bulk

Test performed in physical lab

Conditioning of sample and Sample

distribution for test

Chemical
Physical lab
lab

Mechanical Color Fiber

Physical test Yarn test pH value
test fastness test analysis

Pilling
Fabric width to water Yarn count
resistance

Tensile
Fabric GSM to washing Yarn twist
strength

Dimentional Bursting to
stability strength perspiration

Colorfastness
Spirality to light
to rubbing

Figure 3.4-1: Laboratory work flow chart of physical and chemical test
 43

3.4.1 Physical Lab

Machine used in physical lab:

1. Gakushin
2. Martindale 3. Yarn 4. Orbiter
Rubbing
Pilling Count Pilling 5. Incubator
Fastness
Tester Tester Tester
Tester
6. TruBurst
9. James Heal
Bursting 7. James Heal Tensile 8. Thermo-
Random Tumble
Strength Tester hydrograph
Pilling Tester
Tester

Gakushin rubbing Fastness Tester:

➢ Specified in the Japanese Industrial Standard “Textile Color

Fastness Test Method” (JIS L 0849
➢ Surface Bed radius 200mm
➢ Test Load 2N
➢ Reciprocating distance of friction head 120mm
➢ Friction head reciprocating speed 30 Returns/min
➢ Suitable for testing dyeing fastness of textiles.
➢ Model RT-300S
Figure 3.4-2: Gakushin Rubbing Fastness Tester

Martindale Pilling Tester:

➢ Test method: ISO 12945-2

➢ Purpose: Determines the pilling and fuzzing characteristics of
Textiles.

Figure 3.4-3: Martindale Pilling Tester

 44

Yarn Count Tester:

Purpose: To know the count of the yarn which will used further in knitting machine to produce
fabric.

Figure 3.4-4: Yarn Count Tester

Orbiter Pilling Tester:

Purpose: Determines the pilling and fuzzing characteristics of Textile Fibers.

Figure 3.4-5: Orbiter Pilling Tester

TruBurst Bursting Strength Tester:

Purpose: To measure the bursting strength of the fabric by providing stress on material from
all the direction equally at the same time.
 45

Figure 3.4-6: TruBurst Bursting Strength Tester

Random Tumble Pilling Tester

Purpose: Determines the pilling and fuzzing characteristics of Textile Fibers.

James Heal Tensile Strength Tester

Purpose: To test the tensile strength of fabric. Test Stretch and Recovery of fabric

Figure 3.4-8: Random Tumble Pilling Tester

Figure 3.4-7: James Heal Tensile Strength Tester
 46

Thermohydrograph:

Temperature Measurement Range:

-10 to 50 ⁰C

Humidity Measurement Range: 0

to 100 %

Purpose: To measure temperature

and relative humidity.

Figure 3.4-9: Thermohydrograph

Incubator:
.

Purpose: Precise Temperature and Humidity management.

Figure 3.4-10: Incubator

 47

Some others machines used in physical lab:

Machine name Brand Origin
Tumble dryer Electrolux Sweden
Whirlpool USA
Accudry (Tumble dryer) James Heal England
Washing Machine LG India
Miele Germany
Table 3.4-1: Some others machines used in physical lab

3.4.2 Chemical Lab

In chemical lab of FTML, mainly lab dyeing is done. Lab dyeing is a process by which buyer’s
supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or help of
spectrophotometer. The main aim of the chemical lab is:

• Color match prediction by using spectrophotometer then dyeing with the recipe given
by the spectrophotometer, recipe correction if required; finally, follow the recipe for
bulk production.

Figure 3.4-11: Process flow of Chemical Lab

 48

Machines used in Chemical Lab:

Machine name Brand Origin

Auto Dispenser Technorama Italy
Spectrophotometer Datacolor Switzerland
Co power Technology Co.
Solution maker Taiwan
LTD.
pH meter Hanna Instruments England
Digital pipette Rainin USA
Light box Vervide England
Labtec USA
Dyeing machine
Rapid China
Mini stenter Rapid China
Eco dyer Rapid China
Table 3.4-2: Machines used in Chemical Lab

Spectrophotometer:

Spectrophotometer is a physical tool which is used by dyeing factory and colorant

manufacturers all over the world. Normally color lab manager analysis the color of swatch with
the help of spectrophotometer.

Functions of spectrophotometer:

• Color difference
• Pass/fail Analysis
• Fastness rating
• Metamerism
• Shade library
• Cost comparison
• Color match production
• Reflectance curve
Figure 3.4-12: Spectrophotometer
 49

Parameters:

DE/Delta E DL/ Delta L Da/Delta a Db/ Delta b

DC DH Metamerism

DE/Delta E: Measure color difference

DE: 0 - 0.75 DE: 0.75 - 1 DE: > 1
Pass/fail/warning depends on this value Commercially
Pass Fail
pass(warning)

Figure 3.4-13: CMC report

 50

CIE Color Space Notation:

Difference between lightness/darkness
ΔL:
+ (plus) stands for lighter – (minus) stands for darker

Difference between reddish and greener (red green axis)

Δa:
+ (plus) stands for reddish – (minus) stands for greener

Difference between yellow and blue (yellow blue axis)

Δb:
+ (plus) stands for yellow – (minus) stands for blue

Difference between chrome (distance from gray)

Δc:
+ (plus) stands for brighter – (minus) stands for duller

ΔH: Difference in hue (angle from red axis)

ΔE: Total color difference value

Input the swatch/pantone number/QTX in

spectrophotometer (given by buyer)

Input Save it in the computer library; then save it in the

computer library

select certain types of dyes which may produce the shade

Spectrophotometer generate some recipe; select receipe

considering metamerism, cost and availability of dyes

Select suitable recipe considering metamerism,

availability of dyes and cost of dyes

Figure 3.4-14: Process of recipe generation in spectrophotometer

 51

Dyes Used in Chemical Lab:

Brand: Dyestar Brand: CHT Brand: Orient Chem

Bezactive Yellow S Reactive Deep
Remazol Yellow RR
Matrix 150% Yellow LW
Bezactive Red S-Matrix
Remazol Red RR Reactive Red LW
150%
Bezactive Blue S-Matrix Reactive Deep Red
Remazol Blue RR
150% LW
Reactive Deep Blue
Remazol Yellow 3GL Bezactive Yellow S-3R
LW
Remazol Blue BB Bezactive Red S-3B Reactive Blue RLW
Remazol Turq. Blue G Bezactive Red S-2B Reactive Red 6BX
Remazol Orange RR Bezactive Blue V2B Reactive Blue BB
Remazol G. Yellow
Bezactive Turq Blue VG Reactive Orange MD
RGB
Remazol Red RGB Bezactive Blue VRN
Remazol Blue RGB Bezactive Yellow 58GN
Bezactive Cosmos Orange
Remazol Navy RGB
5C
Remazol Green 6BT Bezactive Cosmos Red 5C
Bezactive Cosmos Navy
Remazol Yellow SAM
5C
Remazol Blue SAM
Remazol Red SAM
Remazol Navy Blue
GG
Remazol Br. Violet 5R
Remazol Ultra
Crimson RGB

❖ Different light sources used in light boxes: D65, TL84, CWF, UV, F-11, 84-P etc.

Calculation of Glauber salt and Soda ash in lab dip:

Normal Reactive dye Turquiose Viscose and mercerized fabric
Shade %
Salt Soda Salt Soda Salt Soda
< 0.1 10 4 10 4 5 3
0.1 – 0.5 20 10 20 10 10 5
0.5 – 1.0 30 10 30 10 12 6
 52

1.0 – 2.0 40 14 40 14 20 7.5

2.0 – 3.0 50 14 50 14 25 10
3.0 – 4.0 60 17 60 17 30 10
4.0 – 5.0 70 20 70 20 40 12
Don’t use turquoise
> 5.0 80 20 50 12
above 5%
Table 3.4-3: Calculation of Glauber salt and Soda ash in lab dip

3.5 Dyeing

Figure 3.5-1: Dyeing floor in FTML

Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns and
fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness.

Dyeing facilities of FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LTD (FTML) comprise of advanced

machinery and are among the leaders in the garments Dyeing and Washing industry of
Bangladesh. FTML has the capability of dyeing different types of fabric with greater quality to
 53

its optimal level. FTML has the reputation of dyeing different types of polyester fabric with
desired quality among the foreign buyers. Thus, different types of jersey fabrics are seen dyeing
in the dyeing floor simultaneously.

Capability to dye: Cotton, Viscose, Modal, Nylon, Polyester and its blends and with Elastane,
and very light to heavy fabrics.

3.5.1 Batching

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a
particular lot of a particular order. Batching process in textile industry is a preparatory stage
for dyeing. It is the process where inspected grey fabrics are divided into different batches with
reasonable quantity according to machine capacity, nozzle number in order to make them
suitable for the further operation in batching. Generally, batching is the receiving section of
grey fabric which is further sent to the dyeing section after the completion of batching process.

Tube bag sewing Machine is used to stich the open width fabric to form tube. Then turning
machine is used to turn over the tube fabric from back to face.

Figure 3.5-2: Bag sewing and Turning process

 54

3.5.2 Flow process chart of Batching Section of FTML

Prepare fabric
Order Sheet received Daily Schedule received
requisition, Follow Fabric requisition send
and Prepare ledger in from dyeing
daily scedule and to grey store
Excel department
ledger

Btach supervisor
Store person Batch man after fabric Batch man hanging the
prepare a batch card
requisition wise received follow the batch card on the
following the grey
keeping the fabrics in grey fabric requisition correct fabric in the
fabric requisition and
super market and grey ERP challan super market
grey ERP Challan

Demand wise batch

Batch demand for
delivery to process
nozzle area and dyeing
area

Figure 3.5-3: Flow process chart of Batching Section

3.5.3 Batch Management

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration.
Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime
planning is adjusted according to machine condition or emergency.

After batching fabric is sent to dyeing floor dyeing and the dyeing recipe is received from
chemical lab (sample dyeing lab).

3.5.4 Dyeing Machine Specification

No
Machine
Origin Brand of Capacity (KG)
type
m/c
Turkey DILMENLER 9 175, 225, 350, 450, 675, 1050, 1500, 1400
FONGS 5 500, 120
Bulk
Germany THEN 2 1000, 1200
THIES 5 200, 250, 500, 750
Total 21
Turkey DILMENLER 5 15, 50
Germany FONGS 10 10, 30, 60, 120
Sample
Bangladesh EA 2 15
Greece SCLAVOS 4 30
Total 21
Table 3.5-1: Dyeing Machine Specification
 55

3.5.5 Dyes used during our internship

CD Polyester
Bezacryl Golden Yellow GL 200, Red GRL 180, Blue (FBS, BG), Black FBL 300
Viscose
Reactobond LW (Deep Yellow, Red), Black (B, DX)
Cotton
Bezaktiv SW (Yellow, Sky White BVB, Reactobond Deep LW Remazol Yellow
Red, Blue) 4BK (Yellow, Red, Blue) RR, Bril Blue BB,
Black DX, Deep LW Turquoise Blue G
133

100% Polyester / SD Polyester

Serilene SWF (Yellow, Deep Red), Deep Forasil Black MSD Bemacron RS
Black SWF 300%, Royal Blue SWF-B (Yellow, Red,
Blue)
Table 3.5-2: Dyes used during our internship

3.5.6 Chemical and Auxiliaries Name

Chemical Trade Name Chemical Trade Name Chemical Trade Name

Neutral Conzyme NL Kappavon
Detergent Kapawet BOS
Enzyme Ultra FCB
Ionfosquest PS Levelling Neocrystal BC Jingon RPC
N Agent 4500 Ant 108
Sequestering
creasing
Agent Sequestering Kappafcom Rucolen
Kappacom E12 Agent
Agent E12 GET
CD
Optavon LTB Sarabid OL RL 1228
Levelling
Stabilizer
Ruco-ST AB SD Nicca sunsolt Soaping Infowash
OKK Levelling RM-3440 Chemical RW N
Peroxide CHT
Buffer Albatex AB-45 Reduction Bio-tex CT 22
killer Catalase BF
Antimussol UDF Jigen Neutra Acid Conzyme DL
Anti-foam Acetic Acid
Liq. Acid Enzyme Ultra
Table 3.5-3: Trade name Vs. Chemical name
 56

3.5.7 Main Parts of Dyeing Machine

01. Main vessel: Accumulate fabric during dyeing & give path for fabric movement.

Figure 3.5-4: Main vessel

02. Winch or reel: Help to rotate fabric.

Figure 3.5-5: Winch or reel

 57

03. Blower: Air supply helps to rotate the fabric during dyeing operation.

Figure 3.5-6: Blower

04. Main motor and pump: Used for water fill-up in the machine.

Figure 3.5-7: Main motor and pump

 58

05. Heat exchanger: For controlling temperature. By this temperature can be raised and also
cool.

Figure 3.5-8: Heat exchanger

06. Reserve tank: Reserve water for machine.

Figure 3.5-9: Reserve tank

07. Chemical Tank: Used for inject/dosing dyes and different types of chemicals.
 59

Figure 3.5-10: Chemical Tank

08. Lint filter: Filtering loose fibres and other impurities during drain.

Figure 3.5-11: Lint filter

09. Unloading reel & Motor: Helps to unload dyed fabric.

 60

Figure 3.5-12: Unloading reel

10. Operating panel: This monitor helps to see program list, observation during processing,
include alarm system.

Figure 3.5-13: Operating panel

11. Water gun: Spray water.

12. Water level indicator: Indicate the amount of water in the vessel.
 61

13. Different inlet & outlet lines:

• Steam line (With insulating cover)

• Cooling water (green)

Figure 3.5-14: Water and steam inlet

14. Door: For entry & exit of fabric.

Figure 3.5-15: Door (nozzle)

 62

3.5.8 Flowchart of Dyeing process

Batch
Pre treatment Dyeing After treatment
Preparation

Table 3.5-4: Flowchart of Dyeing process

Serial of dyeing process:

Serial number Process

3.5.9 50% CD + 50% SD polyester

3.5.10 100% cotton or (95% cotton + 5% elastane)

3.5.11 white

3.5.12 100% polyester

3.5.13 95% viscose + 5% elastane

3.5.14 CVC (50% cotton + 50% polyester)

 63

3.5.9 Process flow of 50% CD + 50% SD polyester

Fill the water Increase in In Dosing tank 1,

Increase in heat (
(Initial Add Detergent temperature (27 ℃ soda solution is
58 ℃ to 80 ℃)
Temperature 27 ℃) to 59 ℃) prepared

Drain ( No rotation Again Fill with

Soda dosing for 5 In 80℃ run for 20 Cooling ( 80℃ to of fabric, water (
minutes minutes 75 ℃) temperature fall Temperature
into 69℃) become 64℃)

Increase in Again fillup with Run time 6 minute

temperature by Cooling ( 80℃ to water ( (Temperature fall
Drain
heating (64℃ to 75℃) Temperature to 31℃, then again
80℃) become 68℃) start to raise)

Again Fill with Run 15 minutes at

Drain Acid Inject at 55℃ Drain
Water 55℃

Run 10 minutes at
Fill with water Drain ( 40 ℃ ( Salt prepare
Fill with water ( PH
(Temperature fall Run for 6 minutes Temperature drop at dosing tank 1
check)
into 50 ℃) to 38 ℃) and dye prepare at
dosing tank 2)

Color dosing at 40
Run for 20 minutes Color dosing for 20
Salt dosing at 40 ℃ ℃ for 15
Run for 10 minutes at 40 ℃ ( Preapre minutes at 40 ℃ (
for 15 minutes minutes(for CD
SD color at tank 2) for SD Polyester)
Polyester)

Increase in
20 minutes run
PH Check temperature ( 40 Run for 10 minutes Steam up to 120 ℃
time at 40 ℃
℃ to 90 ℃)

40 minute run time 40 minutes run

Steam up to 130 ℃ Cooling to 75 ℃ Sample check
at 120 ℃ time at 130℃

BD Wash ( 10
Drain and Fill Drain and Fill
minutes)

Figure 3.5-16: Dyeing process of 50% CD and 50% SD Polyester

 64

For reduction clearing:

Soda dosing at 60 Hydrose dosing at Run time 20

Steam up to 80 ℃ Cooling to 75 ℃
℃ for 5 minutes 60 ℃ for 5 minutes minutes

Run wash ( 7 Rinse wash for 5

Drain and Fill Drain and Fill Drain and Fill
minutes) minutes

Acid wash for 15

Drain and Fill Wash Sample check Unload
minutes ( at 55 ℃)

Figure 3.5-17: Reduction clearing process for 50% CD and 50% SD Polyester
 65

3.5.10 Process flow of 100% cotton or (95% cotton + 5% elastane)

Detergent+Sequest
ering Caustic soda dosing
Run time for 5
Fill the water agent+Stabilizer+An for 3 minutes at Steam up to 70℃
minutes
ticreasing agent 60℃
inject at 60 ℃

Hydrogen peroxide
dosing at 70℃ for 5 Steam up to 98℃ Run for 30 minutes Cooling to 75℃ Drain and Fill
minutes

Run for 10 minutes Temperature come Acetic acid inject at

Cooling (75℃) Drain and Fill
at 80℃ to 55℃ 55℃ for 10 minutes

Peroxide killer + Co
enzyme DL Ultra
PH Check (4.45) Steam up to 80℃ Run for 10 minutes Drain and Fill
(Acid enzyme)
Inject

Levelling
Run time 10
agent+Sequestering Dosing for 10 Color dosing for 20
minutes ( Normal Drain and Fill
agent+Anticreasing minutes minutes ( linear)
Wash)
agent+Glauber salt

Run for 60 minutes

Run for 20 minutes Soda dosing at 55℃ Sample check Drain and Fill
at 60℃

Run for 15 minutes

BD Wash Drain and Fill Acetic acid inject Drain and Fill
at 55℃

Soaping Steam up to 80℃ Run for 20 minutes Sample check Normal wash

Drain and Fill Sample check Drain Unload

Figure 3.5-18: Dyeing process of 100% cotton or (95% cotton + 5% elastane)

 66

3.5.11 Process flow for white

Detergent +
Sequestering
Caustic dosing for
Fill the water agent + (Inject ) Run for 5 minutes
3 minutes at 60℃
Anticreasing agent
+ Stabilizer

Skywhite
Hydrogen peroxide
BVB(Brightener) Scouring at 110℃
Run for 5 minutes dosing for 5 Steam up to 70℃
dosing for 20 for 20 minutes
minutes
minutes at 70℃

Enzyme inject at
Normal Hot Wash Hot wash at 80℃
Acetic acid inject 55℃ for 50 Drain and Fill
10 minutes at 80℃ for 10 minutes
minutes

Rinse wash for 5

Sample check Unload
minutes

Figure 3.5-19: Dyeing process for white

3.5.12 Process flow for 100% polyester

Inject
(Initial
Levelling, anti- Check PH Run at 40 ℃ Color dosing
Fill the water Temperature
foam, acid and (4.20) for 10 minutes for 5 minutes
28 ℃)
buffer

Raise steam Cooling to Reduction

Run for 40 Sample cutting Sample dry at
temperature 75℃ from clearing of the
minutes (After cooling) 130℃
upto 130℃ 130℃ sample

After drying
Temperature
check the Caustic dosing R98 dosing for Run for 20
Drain and Fill raise from
sample at for 5 minutes 5 minutes minutes
75℃ to 80℃
lightbox

Rinsing for 5
Cooling to
minutes Acid and buffer Run at 55℃ for
75℃ from Drain and Fill Drain and Fill
(Temp. Drop to inject 10 minutes
80℃
38℃)

Normal Wash Drain Unload

Figure 3.5-20: Dyeing process for 100% polyester

 67

3.5.13 Process flow for 95% viscose + 5% elastane

Detergent+Sequest
ering Soda ash dosing for
Fill the water (Inject) Run for 5 minutes
agent+Anticreasing 5 minutes at 60℃
agent+ Stabilizer

Hydrogen peroxide
Scouring at 100℃ Normal Hot Wash
Run for 5 minutes dosing for 5 Steam up to 100℃
for 30 minutes 10 minutes at 80℃
minutes

Peroxide killer
+Levelling
Run at 55℃ for 15 Run at 60℃ for 10
Acetic acid inject Drain and Fill agent+Sequestering
minutes minutes
agent+Anticreasing
agent

Glauber Salt dosing

Color dosing for 25 Resist salt dosing at
Run for 10 minutes Run for 5 minutes at 60℃ for 10
minutes (linear) 60℃ for 10 minutes
minutes

Second time
Migration at 80℃
Glauber salt dosing Run time 10
Run for 5 minutes for 20 minutes (1.5 Cooling to 60℃
at 60℃ for 10 minutes
grades)
minutes

Sodium
Second soda dosing
bicarbonate dosing First soda dosing at
Run for 10 minutes Run for 10 minutes at 60℃ for 30
at 60℃ for 20 60℃ for 20 minutes
minutes
minutes

Inject acetic acid at

Run for 50 minutes Drain and Fill Run for 15 minutes Drain and Fill
55℃

Soaping Steam up to 80℃ Run for 20 minutes Sample check Normal wash

Drain Unload

Figure 3.5-21: Dyeing process of 95% viscose + 5% elastane

 68

3.5.14 Process flow for CVC (50% Cotton 50% polyester)

Inject Levelling,
(Initial Run at 40 ℃ for 10
Fill the water anti-foam, acid and Check PH (4.20)
Temperature 28 ℃) minutes
buffer

Raise steam
Color dosing for 5 Cooling 75℃ from
temperature upto Run for 40 minutes Drain and Fill
minutes 130℃
130℃

Inject detrergent,
Dosing Hydrogen
anticreasing agent, Caustic dosing at Temperature raised Dosing R98 at 70℃
peroxide at 70℃
sequestering agent 60℃ for 5 minutes to 70℃ for 5 minutes
for 5 minutes
and stabilizer

Normal Hot wash

Temperature raised Run for 30 minutes
Drain and Fill at 80℃ for 10 Drain and Fill
to 100 ℃ (Scouring time)
minutes

Acid Treatment at Add Enzyme and Run at 55℃ for 50 Hot wash at 80℃
Drain and Fill
55℃ for 3 minutes Peroxide killer minutes for 10 minutes

Add Levelling
Color dosing at
agent, sequestering Soda dosing at 60℃
Run for 15 minutes 60℃ for 20 Run for 20 minutes
agent and Glauber for 40 minutes
minutes
salt at 60℃

Normal hot at 80 ℃ Add acetic acid at

Run for 40 minutes Drain and Fill Drain and Fill
for 10 minutes 55℃

Soaping at 90℃ for

Run for 15 minutes Drain and Fill Drain and Fill Normal Wash
20 minutes

Drain Unload

Figure 3.5-22: Dyeing process for CVC (50% Cotton 50% polyester)
 69

3.5.15 Amount of chemicals used during various operation in dyeing process:

Amount of
SL Dye, chemical and Fiber Type M:L
Intended Operation Chemical (per
No auxiliaries Name Ratio
100 Kg fabric)
Kapawet BOS
1 100% Cotton Scouring 0.6 kg 1:6
(Detergent)
Infosequest PS N
2 100% Cotton Scouring 0.6 kg 1:6
(Sequestering Agent)
Ruco-ST AB OKK
3 100% Cotton Bleaching 0.12 kg 1:6
(Stabilizer)
RL 1228
4 100% Cotton Scouring and Bleaching 0.9 kg 1:6
(Anti creasing Agent)
Caustic 100% Cotton Scouring and Bleaching 1.2 kg 1:6
5
6 Hydrogen Peroxide 100% Cotton Bleaching 4.8 kg 1:6
7 Acetic Acid 100% Cotton Biopolishing 0.9 kg 1:6
CHT- Catalase BF
8 (Peroxide Killer)
100% Cotton Biopolishing 0.42 kg 1:6
Conzyme NL
9 (Neutral Enzyme)
100% Cotton Biopolishing 0.5 kg 1:6
Neocrystal BC-4500
10 (Levelling Agent)
100% Cotton Dyeing 0.9 kg 1:6
Infosequest PAR N
11 (Sequestering agent)
100% Cotton Dyeing 1.2 kg 1:6
12 Glauber Salt 100% Cotton Dyeing 48 kg 1:6
Neocrystal BC-4500
13 (Levelling Agent)
100% Cotton Dyeing 0.18 kg 1:6

14 Soda Ash 100% Cotton Dyeing 11.25 kg 1:6

15 Acetic Acid 100% Cotton Soaping 1.2 kg 1:6
Infowash RW N
16 (Soaping chemical)
100% Cotton Soaping 0.3 kg 1:6
Kappacom E12
17 (Sequestering Agent)
100% Cotton Soaping 0.9 kg 1:6
RL 1228
18 (Anti creasing Agent) 100% Cotton Soaping 0.6 kg 1:6
Albatex AB-45
19 (Buffer)
100% Polyester Dyeing 1.1 kg 1:22
Niccasunsolt RM-3440
20 (Leveling agent)
100% Polyester Dyeing 1.66 kg 1:22
Seragal PBMO
21 (Leveling agent)
100% Polyester Dyeing 1.1 kg 1:22
Antimussol UDF Liq
22 (Anti-foam.)
100% Polyester Dyeing 0.066 kg 1:22

23 Caustic 100% Polyester After treatment 3.33 kg 1:22

Kappatex R98
24 (Reducing agent)
100% Polyester After treatment 2 kg 1:22
25 Acetic Acid 100% Polyester After treatment 1.1 kg 1:22
 70

Albatex AB-45
26 (Buffer)
100% Polyester After treatment 1.1 kg 1:22
27 Reduction Cleaning-735 100% Polyester After treatment 3.33 kg 1:22
Albatex AB-45 65% cotton, 35%
28 (Buffer) polyester
Polyester Levelling 1.2 kg 1:9

Nicca sunsolt RM-3440 65% cotton, 35%

29 polyester
Polyester Levelling 1.2 kg 1:9
(Polyester levelling)
Jingon RPC 108 65% cotton, 35%
30 polyester
Polyester Levelling 0.82 kg 1:9
(Anticreasing agent)
Antimussol UDF Liq. 65% cotton, 35%
31 (Anti foam) polyester
Polyester Levelling 0.048 kg 1:9

Kapawet BOS 65% cotton, 35%

32 polyester
Scouring 0.82 kg 1:9
(Detergent)
Ionfosquest PS N 65% cotton, 35%
33 (Sequestering agent) polyester
Scouring and Bleaching 0.82 kg 1:9

Ruco-ST AB OKK 65% cotton, 35%

34 (Stabilizer) polyester
Bleaching 0.16 kg 1:9
Scouring
Rucolen GET 65% cotton, 35%
35 polyester
+ 0.41 kg 1:9
(Anti creasing agent) Bleaching
65% cotton, 35%
36 Caustic
polyester
Scouring and Bleaching 0.147 kg 1:9
65% cotton, 35%
37 Hydrogen Peroxide
polyester
Bleaching 0.147 kg 1:9
65% cotton, 35%
38 Acetic acid
polyester
Biopolishing 1.2 kg 1:9
CHT Catalase BF 65% cotton, 35%
39 polyester
Biopolishing 0.41 kg 1:9
(Peroxide Killer)
Conzyme NL Ultra 65% cotton, 35%
40 (Neutral Enzyme) polyester
Biopolishing 0.273 kg 1:9
Neocrystal BC 4500 65% cotton, 35%
41 polyester
Polyester Levelling 1.23 kg 1:9
(Levelling agent)
Ionfosquest PS N 65% cotton, 35%
42 polyester
Polyester Levelling 0.419 kg 1:9
(Sequestering agent)
Rucolen GET 65% cotton, 35%
43 polyester
Polyester Levelling 0.41 kg 1:9
(Anti creasing agent)
65% cotton, 35%
44 Glauber Salt
polyester
Dyeing 11.14 kg 1:9
65% cotton, 35%
45 Soda Ash
polyester
Dyeing 0.326 kg 1:9
65% cotton, 35%
46 Acetic acid
polyester
After treatment 0.82 kg 1:9
Infowash RW N 65% cotton, 35%
47 (Soaping chemical) polyester
After treatment 0.41 kg 1:9
 71

3.5.16 Dyeing Faults and Remedies

Faults Causes Remedies

• Uneven pretreatment (uneven • Achieve consistent dyeing
scouring andbleaching). results by ensuring
• Improper color dosing
uniform pretreatment.
• Correct pH value not maintained.
• Prevent color variations,
• Water hardness
especially for synthetic

• Using dyes of high fixation fibers, with uniform heat-

property. setting.
Uneven Dyeing

• Uneven heat-setting in case of

• Maintain precise control
synthetic fibers.
over the dyeing process by
• Lack of control on dyeing m/c adding dyes and chemicals
(like m/c speed, Temperature of
slowly.
the process, Dossing time, M: L
ratio, improper washing after
dyeing).

• Poor migration of Dyes • After Dyeing fabric should

• Dyes combination be finished quickly
• Water Hardness • Proper Dyes combination
Running Shade • Reel speed should be used
• Machine reel speed should
be controlled

• Dyes Lot • Same lot of Dyes should

• Different SOP be used
Batch to Batch
• M/c difference • Same SOP should be
variation
• Worker followed
• Recipe
• cycle time • Same cycle time should be
Roll to Roll • m/c speed ensured
variation • Soda dosing

• Pump speed and reel speed • Pump speed and reel speed
Crease Mark
variation (+/-)
 72

• Fabric entanglement • Reducing the m/c load

• Stitch length tight • Higher liquor ratio
• High GSM
• Dyes filtration • Dyes, Soda/salt should be
• soda/salt dissolving filtered.
Dyes mark
• Dye batch PH • Proper pH should be
maintained
• pH • Proper pH should be
Softener marks
• Fabric entanglement maintained.
• Nozzles Sharpness • Nozzles check
Fabric Holes • Excessive Caustic/ enzyme • Caustic/Enzyme amount
check
Table 3.5-5: Dyeing Faults and Remedies

3.5.17 SWOT Analysis

Strengths

• Skilled Workforce: Operators are comparatively more educated than others section.
Experienced technicians who understand the intricacies of dyeing processes
contribute to high-quality outcomes.

• Auto dispensing of liquid chemicals: Integration of systems like "Orga Tex"

automates the process of delivering precise amounts of liquid chemicals required for
dyeing, including sequestering agents, anti-creasing agents, levelling agents, acetic
acid, etc.

➢ This automation reduces manual handling and human error, ensuring accurate
chemical dosing.

➢ Eliminates the need for manual measurement and mixing of chemicals, saving
time and labor costs during the dyeing process.

➢ Ensures consistency in chemical dosage.

➢ Reduces the risk of chemical spills and exposure, promoting a safer working
environment for employees.
 73

• Versatility in Fabric Dyeing: Ability to dye a variety of fabric types, including 100%
polyester, 100% cotton, cotton/polyester blends, lycra blends, CD (Cationic Dyeable)
and SD (Semi-Dull) polyester, viscose, etc.

Weaknesses

• Resource Intensive: High energy and water consumption can lead to increased
operational costs.

• Environmental Impact: Dyeing processes involve use of chemicals and large

quantities of water, leading to environmental concerns such as pollution and water
usage.

• Complexity: Dyeing processes can be complex and require precise control of

variables such as temperature, pH, and dye concentration, which pose challenges in
maintaining consistency.

• Production loss: Sometimes color stripping and topping is needed which causes loss
of both time and money.

Opportunities

• Precise Process Control: By achieving precise control over parameters such as time,
temperature, and chemical usage during the dyeing process presents an opportunity to
enhance efficiency by reducing additional (stripping, color addition, topping etc.)
process.

• Award Practices: Implementing an monthly award system can enhance worker’s

motivation to complete dyeing with minimal faults and with high accuracy.

Threats

• Waste Generation: Generation of wastewater and chemical waste necessitates proper

treatment and disposal methods to comply with environmental regulations.
 74

3.6 Finishing Section

Figure 3.6-1: Finishing floor in FTML

3.6.1 Introduction

Textile finishing is a process that involves treating fabric or textiles to achieve desired
properties, appearance, and functionality. The goal of textile finishing is to enhance the
performance and value of the fabric, making it more suitable for its intended use. Both
mechanical and chemical treatments are used in textile finishing. In FTML, mechanical
finishing involves physical treatments such as peach, brush and shearing to alter the texture or
appearance of the fabric. On the other hand, chemical finishing consists of the use of chemical
coating to improve the fabric's color, softness and to bring other functionality (Anti-microbial
properties). The specific finishing process used depends on the type of fabric and the desired
end-use.
 75

3.6.2 General Flow chart of finishing:

Slitting /
Stenter Compacting
Squeeze

Ready for
Inspection delivery to
garments

Figure 3.6-2: General flow chart of finishing

3.6.3 Flow Chart of finishing for Collar/Cuff

Dewatering Relax Dryer Quality control

Figure 3.6-3: Flow Chart of finishing for Collar/Cuff

3.6.4 Flow Chart of finishing for Lycra and Synthetic (Polyester) fabric

Fabric from
Batching Heat setting Bag sewing
store

Compacting Stentering Slitting Dyeing

Ready for
Quality control Delivery to
Garments

Figure 3.6-4: Flow Chart of finishing for Lycra and Synthetic (Polyester) fabric
 76

3.6.5 Flow Chart of finishing when Peach/Brushing process Added

Slitting /
Stenter Peach/Brush Stenter
Squeeze

Ready for
Compacting Inspection delivery to
garments

Figure 3.6-5: Flow Chart of finishing when Peach/Brushing process require

3.6.6 Machines

Machine name Brand Origin No. of machine

Slitting Bianco Italy 3
Dewatering Bianco Italy 2
Stenter Sun super Korea 1
Bruckner Germany 5
Compactor Santex Switzerland 1
Lafer Italy 2
Feraro Italy 1
Dryer Dilmenler Turkey 1
Peach Lafer Italy 2
Brush Lafer Italy 1
Shearing Lafer Italy 1
Continuous Washing Hsing Cheng Taiwan 1
(Pre-treatment machine)
Table 3.6-1: Finishing machineries
 77

3.6.6.1 Slitting Machine

Main Function:

➢ Removal of excess water.

➢ Lint removal.
➢ Slitting of tubular fabric according to the needle mark.
➢ Folding the fabric in output which is necessary for feeding the fabric in the next
machine (stenter).

Technical parameters:

➢ Machine speed:
• Fabric which has needle mark: 75m/min
• Fabric which doesn’t have needle mark: 45-50m/min
➢ Padder pressure:
• For cotton: 1
• For polyester: 0

Machine parts and material passage diagram:

Figure 3.6-6: Slitting machine parts and material passage diagram

 78

3.6.6.2 Stenter Machine

Main Function:

➢ To dry the fabric.

➢ To heat set the fabric.
➢ To control the GSM of the fabric.
➢ To control the shrinkage of the fabric.
➢ To control the skewness and bowing.
➢ To control shade of the fabric.
➢ Chemical applications.

Technical parameters:

For Heat set:

Fabric Temperature
100% Polyester 160-180 ᶿC
Polyester + Lycra 195-200 ᶿC
Cotton (High GSM; >200) 180 ᶿC

Temperature for GSM and Shrinkage control:

Fabric Temperature
Cotton 140-160 ᶿC
Fabric which has polyester part < 130 ᶿC
100% polyester 110-120 ᶿC

Speed:

• Depends on GSM. For cotton:

GSM Speed
120 35 m/s
160 30 m/s
250 20 m/s
 79

• If speed increase, chemical pick-up will decrease.

Overfeed:

Fabric Overfeed Percentage

100% Cotton 100%
CVC (60/40) 55%
100% Polyester 10-15%

➢ Polyester content ↑ Overfeed ↓

➢ To control lengthwise shrinkage: Overfeed + Set optimum dia

Case 1:

Target: Low GSM and increase width

➢ Underfeed
➢ Chain width increase

Case 2:

Target: Higher GSM and unchanged width

➢ Overfeed
➢ Required dia

Case 3:

If length shrinkage = -9 and width shrinkage = -1

Target: Have to bring shrinkage in both direction ±5

➢ Overfeed
➢ Dia plus
 80

#Some basic calculation:

1) Every chamber of stenter is 3m long. (There are 10 chambers present in the stenter).
If we want to cure a fabric in 30s. What will be the dwell time/speed(m/min)??

Ans: (3m*10/30sec) = 1m/s. Or, 60m/min.

2) If we have 1000kg fabric and we have to maintain 70% pick-up, calculate the amount of
liquor (where concentration of chemical is 20g/L)

Ans:

70% pick-up means we have to add 700 L liquor.

Now,
1 L liquor content 20g chemicals
700 L liquor content (20*700) = 14000g or 14kg chemicals.
So we need 14kg chemicals in 700 L liquor.

Machine parts and material passage diagram:

Figure 3.6-7: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Stenter machine
 81

3.6.6.3 Compacting Machine

Compacting is a process of mechanical compression of fabrics in lengthwise direction, in order

to minimize its tendency to shrink during consumer use. Compacting is the last finishing
process which is important for better hand feel and the residual shrinking. The compacting
process also results in increase in fabric areal density and reduction in the overall fabric length.
Steam can also use to reduce the finish dia of the fabric.

Main Function:

➢ To control the final width and GSM of fabric.

➢ To control shrinkage of fabric.
➢ To get better hand feel.

Machine parts and material passage diagram:

Figure 3.6-8: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Compacting machine (Santex)

3.6.6.4 Peach Machine

Peach/sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is abraded on one or both

sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This fibrous surface improves the fabric appearance,
gives the fabric a softer and smoother hand feel. Sueding can be applied to a variety of fabric
types, including cotton, polyester, CVC, PC etc.
 82

Main Function:

➢ Surface Smoothing: This machine helps in smoothing out the fabric surface by
removing any protruding fibers or irregularities, resulting in a more even texture.
➢ Fiber Raising: It raises the surface fibers of the fabric, giving it a fuzzy, suede-like
texture, making it smoother to the touch.
➢ Enhancing Appearance.

Machine parts and material passage diagram:

Figure 3.6-9: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Peach machine

3.6.6.5 Brushing Machine

Brushing/Raising is a mechanical finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric by
means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points. Raising is the
term used to describe the creation of a pile surface on a fabric. Fibers are deliberately pulled
out of a yarn to give the fabric a hairy or fuzzy appearance and a soft surface texture.
 83

Main Function:

➢ To obtain a lofty handle effect.

➢ To obtain fleecy appearance.
➢ To create pile on surface.
➢ To produce heavier surface.
➢ To produce warm cloth as well as soft one.
➢ To make the fabric more comfortable.

Machine parts and material passage diagram:

Figure 3.6-10: Machine parts and material passage diagram of Brushing machine

3.6.6.6 Shearing Machine

Shearing is a mechanical permanent finishing process by which the fibers protrude from the
surface of a fabric is cut to a uniform and even height.
 84

Before shearing, brushing is done that raise the fiber ends/yarn ends. Then the fabric passes
through a spiral cutter rotating against a stationary blade and cuts off those fibers/yarns
protruding from the fabric surface.

Main Function:

➢ To cut the pile present on a fabric surface at a constant level of height.

➢ To prevent pill formation on the fabric.
➢ To produce a certain hand feel onto the fabric.
➢ To improve the appearance of the fabric.

Figure 3.6-11: Cutting point of shearing machine

3.6.6.7 Continuous Washing Machine

Continuous Tensionless Washing machine is mainly used to wash synthetic fabric before heat
setting. This machine contains 12 compartments (6 perforated drum + 6 padding mingle). In
first four perforated drum heat exchanger is present. In last two perforated drum chamber no
heat is applied.
 85

Main Purpose:

➢ Remove oil and other impurities before heat set.

➢ Pre-shrinkage: Pre-shrinking of synthetic fabrics before further processing or garment
manufacturing helps to minimize the risk of shrinkage during subsequent use and
stabilizing the fabric dimensions.
➢ Tensionless Treatment: Unlike traditional washing machines that may subject fabrics
to tension during the washing process, a continuous tensionless washing machine is
designed to minimize or eliminate tension on the fabric. This is crucial for delicate or
sensitive fabrics, such as synthetics, to prevent stretching, distortion, or damage during
washing.

Figure 3.6-12: Continuous Washing Machine

 86

3.6.7 SWOT Analysis

Strengths

• Quality Enhancement: Each process contributes to improving fabric quality by

enhancing texture, appearance, and performance characteristics.

• Customization: The ability to adjust parameters allows for customized treatments,

meeting diverse market demands.

Weaknesses

• Process Redundancy: Inefficiencies in certain processes may lead to suboptimal output,

requiring reprocessing or reruns through the same machines. This redundancy results
in additional energy consumption, along with loss of money.

• Loss of Productivity: Rerunning processes due to inadequate output diminishes overall

productivity and throughput, impacting production schedules and potentially delaying
order fulfillment.

Opportunities

• Product Differentiation: Offering unique finishing treatments or specialty fabrics can

differentiate the company's products and attract niche markets.

• Enhancing Productivity Through Operator Training and Meetings: Organizing training

sessions or meetings for machine operators can enhance productivity by improving
their skills in managing multiple machines and processes.

Threats

• Risk of Customer Dissatisfaction and Profit Loss Due to Process Redundancy: Process
redundancy may lead to delayed delivery, potentially causing dissatisfaction among
buyers. Moreover, the added costs associated with reruns can erode profitability,
making it an unsustainable and unprofitable practice.

• Consumer preferences towards innovative products and the increasing demand for
various chemical finishes like water repellent, fire retardant, anti-soil, crease-resistant,
and anti-odor treatments may necessitate additional processing capabilities beyond
traditional mechanical finishing, posing a challenge to competitiveness and market
relevance.
 87

3.6.8 Quality Inspection

Quality section ensures that the quality of finished fabric is at desired level to facilitate the
garment process. It’s very important that the fabric quality is maintained properly so that the
finished garments have minimum faults.

Light source for inspection:

Light source
Buyer Name
Primary Secondary
M and S TL84 D65
PUMA D65 TL84
GU D65 TL84
AUCHAN TL84 D65
SANMAR CANADA CWF D65
LA-REDOUTE D65 TL84
E. FAMILY D65 TL84
PEPCO D65 TL84
FULL BEAUTY D65 TL84
TORAY D65 TL84
Table 3.6-2: Light source for inspection (for top 10 buyer)

Grading for faults:

Grading Inspection
Buyer Name
Grade-A Grade-B Reject Method
M and S 25 >25
PUMA 15 16-20 >20
GU 25 >25
AUCHAN 20 21-28 >28
4 point
SANMAR CANADA 20 21-28 >28
LA-REDOUTE 20 21-28 >28
E. FAMILY 20 21-28 >28
PEPCO 20 21-28 >28
 88

FULL BEAUTY 20 21-28 >28

TORAY 20 21-28 >28
Table 3.6-3: Grading fot faults (for top 10 buyer)

Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd follow the 4-point system for inspection the fabric quality. There
are four penalties (score 1, 2, 3, 4) for the fabric faults according to size, quality and defects.
In 4-point system, fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq. yds.

Total points in roll ∗ 36 ∗ 100

Points / 100 sq. yd. = 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑌𝑑𝑠 ∗ 𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ 𝑖𝑛 𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ

Defect size and assign point:

Size of defects Point

0 to 3" 1
> 3" but ≤ 6" 2
> 6" but ≤ 9" 3
> 9" 4
Any hole 4
Table 3.6-4: Point for faults in 4-Point method

Finishing

Reject/Reprocess

If Fail
Final Inspection Non confirming goods

If Pass
Delivery with note

Finish Fabric Store

Figure 3.6-13: Quality Control Flow Chart

 89

3.7 Garment Section

3.7.1 Fabric Relaxation

Before spread the finished fabric in cutting table fabric relaxation is done. During
finishing process heat is applied on fabric as a result moisture is removed from the fabric,
and it is not the actual condition. But when the fabric kept in normal temperature and
pressure for a certain time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and regains
its original nature. This process is called fabric relaxation. In FTML WinDa machine
(Auto Steam Relax Machine) is used for steam application on fabric then kept it for
several hour according to buyer requirement to complete the relaxation.

Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fabric to
fabric. This time also may vary according to the buyer’s recommendation. Here a little
amount of fabric is cut and sewed in sewing section. Then the garments are compared
with the approved sample. Sewing allowance and other measurements are also observed.
If everything is ok, then the approval is given, and the fabric is ready for bulk production.

Fabric relaxation process flow chart:

As per cutting
Fabric relax requirement
requisition, fabric is
received from cutting
delivered to cutting
section
section

After relaxed fabrics

Fabrics sent to Auto
keep on tray in
Steam Relax Machine
relaxation area

Figure 3.7-1: Fabric relaxation process flow chart

Fabrication wise relax time:

Fabric type Stand hours in roll form

100% Cotton 2 hours

 90

100% SD/CD polyester 2 hours

Polyester + Elastane 2 hours

100% polyester 3 hours

Viscose / Viscose + Lycra 8 hours

100% Linen 12 hours

50% Cotton + 50% Modal 12 hours

Polyester + Modal + Lycra 12 hours

Recycle Polyester + Elastane 12 hours

Table 3.7-1: Relaxation time for different type of fabric

3.7.2 Cutting Section

3.7.2.1 Flow Chart of Cutting Section

Fabric quality
Relaxation Spreading
inspection

Cutting Numbering Bundling

Finally grouped
for store (Send
Quality body parts for
Re-cut zone
inspection embroidery or
printing if
necessary)
Figure 3.7-2: Flow Chart of Cutting Section
 91

❖ Fabric quality inspection: Finished fabric receive after final quality inspection (Textile
department) and again quality check (10% fabric) before relaxation.

❖ Relaxation: Fabric treated with steam (in WinDa m/c) for relaxation. Then Keep the
fabric on tray for a certain time (according to the fabric type).

❖ Spreading: Relaxed fabric received by cutting section and Input in automatic spreading
machine or spread manually.

Fabric Type GSM Lay Height (in inch)

Single Jersey 130-150 2.5
Single Jersey > 150 3.0
Lycra 150-220 2.5
Viscose 180-220 2.0
Pique 160-240 3.0
Interlock 180-240 3.0
1*1 Rib 220-320 2.5
2*2 Rib 220-450 3.0
Fleece 240-350 4.0
Waffle 160-220 4.0

Basic requirements of fabric spreading:

• Alignment of fabric plies.
• No folding, fabric must be flat.
• Stripe fabric spread manually.
• Maintain correct ply tension.
 92

Figure 3.7-3: Automatic Fabric Spreading Machine

❖ Cutting: After completion of laydown, cut fabric plies with automatic cutting machine.
During cutting marker is placed on the top of fabric plies.
Requirements of fabric cutting:
• Precision of cut.
• Unfused edge.
• Clean edge.
• Support of the lay.

Method of cutting:

• Cutting with Automatic machine: In FTML, one “FK Group” and two “Lectra”
automatic cutting machine is used to cut fabric of 8 lines.
• Manual Cutting: Straight knife, round knife, Notcher is used for fabric cutting.

Figure 3.7-4: Fabric cutting with Automatic Machine (Lectra)

 93

❖ Numbering: After cutting, numbering is done for each ply with cutting number and size.
❖ Bundling: Then sleeve parts are bundled with sticker (Identification card) and body
parts goes to the inspection table.

Figure 3.7-5: Numbering and Bundling

❖ Quality inspection and Re-cut: In inspection table, each body part is checked and
replace defect body parts with extra parts, made during spreading by laying extra 2/3
layer of fabric. Then final inspection is done to check the right replacement of defect
parts.

Figure 3.7-6: Quality inspection and Re-cut

❖ Finally grouped different parts in bag (Some parts go to the printing or embroidery
section if required) and store them for sewing section.
 94

3.7.2.2 Organogram of Cutting Section:

Assistant
General
Manager

Deputy Senior
Manager Executive

Assistant
Executive
Manager

Senior Assistant
Executive Officer

Marker Man
Executive
(CAD)

Assistant
Officer
Day Shift Night Shift

Supervisor Supervisor

Cutter Man Cutter man

Spreading Spreading
M/C Operator M/c Operator

ERP Operator ERP Operator

Cutter Cutter

Cutting Cutting
Assistant Assistant

Loader Loader

Figure 3.7-7: Organogram of Cutting Section

 95

3.7.3 Sewing Section

3.7.3.1 Organogram of Sewing Section:

Chief
Assistant Senior
Operating Helper
Manager Executive
Officer (COO)

Head of
Strategic Senior/Junior
Manager Executive
Business Unit Operator
(HSBU)

Assistant
General Deputy Junior
Supervisor
Manager Manager Executive
(AGM)

Assistant
Factory Assistant
Manager Factory Officer
Line Chief
Manager
Figure 3.7-8: Organogram of Sewing Section

3.7.3.2 Flow Chart of Sewing Section:

Receiving cut
panels from Finishing Attach Size
cutting Quality Check label, Hang tag
department

Folding/Hanger
Receive line Ironing/Hot ing (as per
layout from IE pressing buyer
requirement)

Line feeding as Sewing Quality Packing with

per line layout Check polybag

Preparing sewing Performing sewing

machines and operation based on Send to
equipment for specification and packaging unit
sewing operator requirement

Figure 3.7-9: Flow Chart of Sewing Section

 96

3.7.3.3 Sewing Line for Basic T-Shirt:

1 2 Serial
Operation Breakdown Machine Name
No
3 3 Back and Front part shoulder join
1 4 Thread Overlock
with mobilon tape
5 4 2 Shoulder to sewing 2 Thread Flatlock
3 Sleeve joint with body 4 Thread Overlock
6 5 Neck piping, Measurement and
4 4 Thread Overlock
cut
7 7 Single Needle
5 Neck stitch open and tack
Lock Stitch
8 9 6 Neck close and trim 4 Thread Overlock
Back tape measure, cut, attach Single Needle
7
9 10 and trim Lock Stitch
8 Front neck top sewing and trim 2 Thread Flatlock
10 11 Single Needle
9 Back tape close and trim
Lock Stitch
11 11 10 Armhole top sewing and cut 2 Thread Flatlock
11 Side seam 4 Thread Overlock
12 13 12 Bottom scissoring S-Table
13 Body hem 3 Thread Flatlock
14 14 14 Sleeve hem 3 Thread Flatlock
Single Needle
15 Bottom, sleeve safety tack, trim
15 15 Lock Stitch
Provide care label and inspect size
16 17 16 4 Thread Overlock
with the no. of care label
Single Needle
Sewing Quality 17 Care label attach and trim
Lock Stitch

Finishing Table 3.7-2: Operation Breakdown for Basic T-Shirt

 97

3.7.3.4 Sewing Line for Trouser (Solid):

1 2

2 2 Serial Machine /
Operation Breakdown
No Manpower
3 3 Front and Back rise join and
1 4 Thread Overlock
trim
5 4 2 Side seam without label 4 Thread Overlock
3 Inseam join 4 Thread Overlock
6 4 Waist belt cover make and cut Vertical Machine
Single Needle Lock
5 Elastic measure and cut
6 6 Stitch
Belt servicing (join elastic and
6 2 Thread Flatlock
7 7 waist belt cover)
7 Waist belt join and trim 4 Thread Overlock
8 10
Single Needle Lock
8 Care label attach and trim
Stitch
9 11
9 Inseam safety bartack Bartack Machine
10 Waist belt top sewing and trim 5 Thread Flatlock
10 12
Single Needle Lock
11 Main label attach at trim
Stitch
13 13
12 Bottom scissoring Sewing helper
13 Leg hem 3 Thread Flatlock
14 14
Waist, leg hem safety tack and Single Needle Lock
14
trim Stitch
Sewing Quality
Table 3.7-3: Operation Breakdown for Trouser (Solid)

Finishing
 98

a)

b)

c) d)

Figure 3.7-10: a) Sewing floor in FTML (Total 29 sewing line in unit-1) b)Different baskets use during sewing quality
c) Green light for Electrical servicing and Yellow light for Maintenance d) G-Trap used in Ironing
 99

3.7.3.5 Sewing Machines:

a) b)

c) d) e)

f) g) h)

Figure 3.7-11: a) Plain machine b) Two thread chain stitch c) Bartack Machine d) Kansai special
e) 5 thread flatlock f) 4 thread overlock g) Button attaching machine h) Button hole machine
 100

3.7.3.6 Needle

Machine Needle Name Needle Size

Plain Machine DB * 1 7, 8, 9, 11, 14
Plain Machine DB * K5Z1 5NY, 11NY
Plain Machine DB * 1KN 9LP, 10LP
Overlock Machine DC * 1 7, 8PD, 8KN, 9PD, 9, 10,
11, 14
Flatlock Machine UY * 128 7, 8PD, 8KN, 9, 10, 11, 14,
10PD, 9LP, 10LP,
Flatlock Machine GBUY * 128 9, 11
Button Stitch DP * 17 9, 11, 14
Button Hole DP * 5 9, 11, 14, 9LP, 10LP
Kansai Special UO * 113 9, 11, 14, 9LP, 11LP, 12LP
Table 3.7-4: Needle Measurement

3.7.4 Finishing

Garments
received from Ironing Quality check
sewing section

Hangtag / Folding and

Sticker attach other Poly pack
attachment accessories

Poly sticker Keeping in

Sent to packing
attachment Basket

Figure 3.7-12: Flow chart of Finishing (After Sewing)

 101

a) b) c)

d) e) f)

Figure 3.7-13: a) Ironing b) Quality check c) Hangtag attachment d) Folding e) Poly pack f) Garment
keep in basket (according to size)

3.7.5 Packaging

Garment poly received Cartoning According

Garments are pass
from sewing section to packing list (Scan
through metal detector
(After finishing) each garments)

Sealed the checking

Some carton checked
cartons and scan all
by buyer's authorized Delivery
cartons to check right
team
quantity and size

Figure 3.7-14: Flow chart of Packaging unit

 102

3.7.6 SWOT Analysis

Strengths

• Continuous performance monitoring.

• Diverse Product Range: Offer a wide range of products, including clothing for men,
women, and children, as well as various types of apparel such as casual wear, formal
wear, sportswear, etc.

Weaknesses

• Handling Manpower: Often encounter difficulties in managing a diverse workforce, as

employees come from various backgrounds and may face personal struggles impacting
their productivity. Understanding and addressing these individual challenges, including
mental health issues, is essential for maintaining a motivated and efficient workforce.

Opportunities

• Training and Award: Training and a monthly performance award can reduce the time
required for each sewing step. Can also offer bonuses for meeting or exceeding
production targets.

• Efficient inventory management and reducing bottlenecks: Ensure materials are always
available when needed and provide additional specific machines for operations that take
longer time than others to reduce bottleneck problem.

Threats

• Labor Issues: High wage demands by workers and lack of motivation towards work
pose significant threats to the garment section.
 103

3.8 Printing Section

Textile printing is the process of applying color to the fabric in definite patterns or designs. It
is a part of wet processing, which is carried out after pretreatment of fabric or after dyeing. In
FTML goods are come from garments section after cutting, for printing purpose in those
specific body parts. It is done for producing attractive designs on the fabric. Usually, printing
is performed on one side of the textile. Different printing methods can be applied to transfer
the dyestuff and chemicals to the surface of the fabric.

Machines Used in printing:

Figure 3.8-1: Circular and Oval Printing Machine

Figure 3.8-2: Manual Printing Table

 104

Process Flow Diagram of Printing Section:

File Received with Approved strike off from Buyer

Bulk cut panel Received from Cutting section

Cut panel Bundle Return cutting

Send to Approval
Rectify and Re print

After Approval Chemical Rectify, Re-

Send for Wash print and send to
test wash

After received wash test report go for bulk

production

Line QC Check
and Register Stop Production, defect
rectify, then start
production

Curing

Table Quality Check

Delivery Input Section

Go for sewing

Figure 3.8-3: Process Flow Diagram of Printing Section

 105

Types of Printing:

• Rubber Printing
• Pigment Printing
• Puff printing

Methods of printing:

• Screen Printing
• Sublimation Printing
• Heat Seal
• Back Padding

Screen Printing

Screen-printing is a process where ink is forced through a mesh screen onto a surface. Making
certain areas of the screen impervious to printing ink creates a stencil, which blocks the printing
ink from passing through the screen. The ink that passes through forms the printed image.

Screen Preparation:

Mesh covered
Dry at 60 degree
White mesh with photo Design placed in
celcius for 5
placed in a frame sensitizer in a the dried screen
minute
dark room

UV exposed in Water spray to Again covered the

UV exposer remove color mesh with photo
Dry
machine for 40 from design sensitizer without
second portion the design portion

Dry (under sun

Covered with
15-20 minute, in Dry Ready to use
hardener
dryer 30 minute)

Figure 3.8-4: Process of screen preparation

 106

Print Paste Preparation for Rubber Printing:

1. Color Matching: White, clearer, and basic colors are added to match the shade with
the swatch according to the experience of the workers.
The proportion of white and clearer is maintained according to the desired shade. For
light shades, the percentage of white dominates over clearers, and vice versa for
darker shades.

2. Testing: Apply the print paste to the base fabric to be printed and dry it to check the
color.

3. Adjustment: If the color matches, add fixer, then proceed with bulk production.
If the color does not match, adjust by adding more color until the desired shade is
achieved.

a) b)

c) d)

Figure 3.8-5: a) White and clearer mixing b) Color addition c) Drying d) Matching
 107

Figure 3.8-6: Types of printing done in FTML

 108

3.9 WTP (Water Treatment Plant)

Ground water pass to the oxidation tank with the help of

pump

Then water pass to multigrade sand filter from oxidation

tank

After multigrade filtration water goes to softener filter

chamber where "ion exchange resin" is present

Soft water

Delivery to different section

Figure 3.9-1: Process flow of Water Treatment Plant

Multi grade
sand filter-2

Pump-1
Additional Oxidation
pump Multi grade tank-1
Pump-2 sand filter-1

Figure 3.9-2: WTP Plant in FTML (Pump, Oxidation tank and Multigrade sand filter)
 109

Softener
filter-2

Salt tank for re-

generation

Softener filter-1

Figure 3.9-3: WTP Plant in FTML (Softener filter and Salt tank for re-generation)

3.9.1 Re-generation process

When hardness of
water >5pp, re- Introduce salt
Rinse wash / Front Water drain
generation start with solution and keep
wash for 15-20 min (continuous flow)
"Back wash" for 25- the outlet valve off
30 min

Drain water for 25-

Rest for 40 min 30 min untill salt is Ready for delivery
completely removed

Figure 3.9-4: Re-generation process in WTP

Average capacity of this WTP (FTML) = 3400-3600 cubic meter/day (2 unit).

 110

3.10 ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant)

As a sustainable and compliance factory FTML maintain ETP (Effluents Treatment plant). It is
a biological ETP. Biological ETP uses bacteria to treat effluents. Bacteria uses effluents as
foods and breaks down the chemical bonds of effluents. Both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria
are used.

ETP Type Biological

ETP Capacity 4000m3/day
ETP Outlet 3000 m3/day
Cost of 1m3 effluents treatment 25 Tk
ETP plant investment 40-50 crore
Effluents Circulation time 72 hours
Effluents inlet from Dyeing, Finishing, Garments washing, Seamless, Lab

Figure 3.10-1: Inlet of ETP

 111

Process:

ETP Inlet Screening Homogenization

Sulfuric Acid 98%
Unit Tank

Auto Dosing
Nutrient Neutralization
Feeding Tank

Anaerobic
Reactor

Anaerobic Recirculation

Aerobic Distribution
tank

Aerobic Distribution
tank

Aerobic tank

Sedimentation Feeding
tank

Sludge Recirculation
tank Treated water

Sludge Thickening tank

Sludge Dewatering/Filter press Post Aeration Tank

Water Sludge ETP outlet

Sludge Storing

Figure 3.10-2: Working flow chart of ETP (in FTML)

 112

Figure 3.10-3: Anaerobic(left) and Aerobic(right) tank

Figure 3.10-4: Sedimentation tank (left side) and ETP outlet (right side)

Chemical Used:

• Decoloring Agent
• Anti-Foaming
• 98% Sulphuric Acid
• Polyacrylic amide
 113

Test :

ECR 2023 Standard are followed for outlet waste tests.

• Test Results In FTML:

Testing Interval Parameter result

Test Item ECR 2023 Standard
Inlet Outlet
pH Daily 9.69 7.78 6-9
Temperature Daily 41.5℃ 33.4℃ ≤40℃
BOD 15 Days 255 mg/L 18 mg/L <=30 mg/L
COD 15 Days 835 mg/L 107 mg/L <=200 mg/L
TSS 15 Days 153 mg/L 11 mg/L <=100 mg/L
DO 15 Days 0.29 mg/L 6.29 mg/L 45-80 mg/L
TDS Daily 18.69 mg/L 18.59 mg/L <=2100 mg/L
Table 3.10-1: Different parameters of ETP (FTML)

Treated Effluent Quantity: 3300-3600 cubic meter/day.

3.11 Utility

Utility is essential services that keep the entire operation running. These aren't manufactured
goods themselves, but rather the resources that make production possible. General utility
sources are natural gas, electricity, water etc.

The utility department acts as the factory's silent orchestra conductor, ensuring a smooth and
uninterrupted flow of essential resources. Their primary duty to guaranteeing 24/7 availability
of resources like electricity, water, and compressed air. But it's not just about keeping the lights
on. The utility department strive for optimal efficiency, constantly seeking ways to deliver these
vital resources at the most competitive cost. A factory floor humming with activity – that's the
direct result of the utility department's dedication to keeping the essential utilities flowing
smoothly and cost-effectively.
 114

3.11.1 Boiler

Boiler provide the uninterrupted steam to the factory. Steam is used in dyeing, finishing and
garments section. Steam is produced at high pressure 7-8 bar then transported to the different
department. The dyeing machine require steam supply of 6 bar. Sor Pressure Reducing Valve
(PRV) is used get the required pressure. Steam is produced at 130º C temperature the safety
valve is activated at 135ºC which prohibit any accident.

Figure 3.11-1: Cochran boiler

 115

FTML has firetube boiler for supplying steam and also has EGB. The EGB (Exhaust Gas
boiler) used exhaust gas from generator as fuel to produce steam.

Total No of Boiler 4
Total No of EGB 3
Total Steam Production capacity 27.65 ton/hour
Total Steam demand of Factory 18 ton/hour

Figure 3.11-2: Exhaust Gas boiler (EGB)

There is a 10,000 liters feed water tank for water supply in the boiler. The condensed water
from the dyeing machine is feedback into the boiler through the water feed tank. This process
reduces the fuel cost of the boiler as water is feed at high temperature (90º C).

Natural Gas Price/m3 30 Tk

1 ton Steam Production required 68 m3 Natural Gas
1 ton Steam Production cost 2040 Tk
 116

3.11.2 Generator

Generator supply electricity in the factory. As the factory required undisrupted electricity
supply which can’t be always meet by the govt electricity supply.

Generator Category Power supply

Gas generator 900 kw
Gas generator 900 kw
Gas generator 1500 kw
Diesel generator 1600 kw
Total 4900 kw

Figure 3.11-3: Gas generator

3.11.3 Compressor

FTML utilizes a robust compressed air system comprised of six compressors. These
compressors function by transforming various power sources, such as electric motors or
 117

internal combustion engines, into pressurized air. This compressed air is a form of potential
energy stored within a dedicated tank. The compressors operate by progressively forcing air
into the tank, thereby elevating the pressure. Once the pressure reaches a predetermined safe
limit, the compressor automatically shuts off. The compressed air remains within the tank until
it's required for various industrial applications throughout FTML's operations.

Figure 3.11-4: Compressor

3.11.4 Solar

FTML has installed 2.56 MW capacity rooftop solar panels. This solar panel provide additional
power supply to the garment unit. When the garments unit remain shut off the electricity is
supplied to the national grid and the centricity bill is adjusted according to that.
 118

Figure 3.11-5: Rooftop solar panels

4 Limitations

Barriers and obstacles were present from both our sides and factory side. We were only given
a very short periods of time of 60 days (42 working days) for our whole internship journey. As
we had no prior experiences in the factory and corporate culture it was very difficult for us to
suddenly adapt ourself with quick changes. We were very excited to learn but as due to no prior
experiences to the factory atmosphere and supply chain we had difficulties to find out the
proper root of learning and our scope of learning. The factory possesses a different techniques
and approach to solve problem which was very difficult for us to catch up with as we had no
prior exposure to the factory. The factory managers and technical persons had tight schedule
and they were very busy with maintaining and running factory operations we had to find time
and attentions from them which wasn’t sufficient. There were lot of incidents where we had no
opportunity to meet the technical persons for learning machines or process operations. As we
were on tight schedule we couldn’t get back to the previous points where we had lacking. The
2-month tight schedule isn’t enough to get the whole picture of the textile supply chain and
productions operations.
 119

Another problem with factory technicians and mangers is detached of knowledge sharing.
Some of the people gave us wrong information which we figured out during double check with
higher managements. There is lack of innovations intentions in the factory peoples. They like
to go with flow, not thinking out of the box.

5 Conclusion

From the first day till the last minutes, we have given our best efforts to learn practical
knowledge at forts hand. It was a challenging time for us. We have to adapt to the factory
environment and build communication channel with factory people. But the people at the
FTML were very welcoming hand they help us with their expertise. From this 2-month long
internship journey we have built a bird eye view of textile supply chain. We have built
networking with industry expertise. We learn about the textile business challenges and how
industry is preparing themselves. This industrial internship will guide us through our carrier
journey.
 120

6 Appendices

6.1.1 Attendance records:

121
 122

7 Supplementary Document

Tables of pie chart

Yarn in Kg from January, 2023 to December, 2023

Total Yarn Received (Kg) = 10991373.96

Various Types of Count Used in FTML (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-4):
Yarn Count Received Quantity Percentage
(Kg) (%) of total
32/1 2299488.44 20.92%
30/1 2021969.93 18.40%
28/1 1489770.03 13.55%
34/1 909884.8 8.28%
24/1 784019.78 7.13%
27/1 754847.51 6.87%
40/1 717702.48 6.53%
75D/72F 477583.44 4.35%
26/1 405637.15 3.69%
20/1 249112.64 2.27%
150D/144F 157622.4 1.43%
10/1 118090 1.07%
18/1 104291.73 0.95%
75D/36F 102819.6 0.94%
20D 96904.2 0.88%
36/1 59089.56 0.54%
12/1 53379 0.49%
50D/72F 24767.2 0.23%
14/1 23089.53 0.21%
100D/144F 21984 0.20%
50D/36F 20995.78 0.19%
8/1 16350 0.15%
16/1 14833.7 0.13%
150D/288F 10786 0.10%
40D/48F 9293 0.08%
30D 8969.28 0.08%
50/1 6380 0.06%
70D 6028.08 0.05%
22/1 4475.8 0.04%
100D/144F/2 3852 0.04%
 123

40D 3320.7 0.03%

150D/96F 3240 0.03%
170D/144F 2448.92 0.02%
55D 1623.36 0.01%
150D/48F 1309 0.01%
21/1 777.49 0.01%
100D/96F 575 0.01%
50D/48F 502.4 0.00%
60/2 359 0.00%
100D/48F 300 0.00%
200D/288F 288 0.00%
100D/72F 275 0.00%
60D/72F 200 0.00%
44D/48F 169.81 0.00%
70/1 160 0.00%
40D/34F 150 0.00%
54/2 140 0.00%
100/1 115 0.00%
120/1 112 0.00%
45/1 100 0.00%
50D/72F/2 100 0.00%
75D/72F/2 100 0.00%
80/1 100 0.00%
30D/24F 95 0.00%
70D/68F 95 0.00%
44/55/36 90 0.00%
120D/30F/S 87.8 0.00%
50/2 80 0.00%
60/1 80 0.00%
105D 52.8 0.00%
100D/36F 50 0.00%
150D/36F 50 0.00%
166D/288F 50 0.00%
80/2 36 0.00%
44/1 25 0.00%
48/1 25 0.00%
140D 19.8 0.00%
180D 19.8 0.00%
280D 18 0.00%
40/2 10 0.00%
38/1 7 0.00%
Total Quantity = 10991373.96
 124

Polyester Yarn Count (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-5):

Yarn Count Yarn Type Amount (Kg) Percentage
(%) of Total
75D/72F Polyester 477583.44 57.14%
150D/144F Polyester 157622.4 18.86%
75D/36F Polyester 102819.6 12.30%
50D/72F Polyester 24767.2 2.96%
100D/144F Polyester 21984 2.63%
50D/36F Polyester 20995.78 2.51%
150D/288F Polyester 10786 1.29%
40D/48F Polyester 6174 0.74%
100D/144F/2 Polyester 3852 0.46%
150D/96F Polyester 3240 0.39%
170D/144F Polyester 2448.92 0.29%
150D/48F Polyester 1309 0.16%
100D/96F Polyester 575 0.07%
100D/48F Polyester 300 0.04%
200D/288F Polyester 288 0.03%
100D/72F Polyester 275 0.03%
60D/72F Polyester 200 0.02%
30D Polyester 120 0.01%
50D/72F/2 Polyester 100 0.01%
75D/72F/2 Polyester 100 0.01%
120D/30F/S Polyester 87.8 0.01%
105D Polyester 52.8 0.01%
100D/36F Polyester 50 0.01%
150D/36F Polyester 50 0.01%
166D/288F Polyester 50 0.01%
70D/68F Polyester 50 0.01%
Total = 835880.94

Lycra (Spandex) Yarn Count (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-6):
Yarn Count Yarn type Amount (Kg) Percentage(%) of
Total
20D Spandex 96904.2 82.98%
30D Spandex 8849.28 7.58%
70D Spandex 6028.08 5.16%
40D Spandex 3320.7 2.84%
55D Spandex 1623.36 1.39%
140D Spandex 19.8 0.02%
 125

180D Spandex 19.8 0.02%

280D Spandex 18 0.02%
Total = 116783.22
Yarn Types (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-7):
Percentage
Received Quantity
Yarn Type (%) of total
(Kg)
Combed Compact 5040879.46 45.86%
Carded 1681429.42 15.30%
Carded Compact 607468.35 5.53%
Melange 524303.35 4.77%
Polyester 438238.4 3.99%
Ring Spun 435580.34 3.96%
Recycle 341439.64 3.11%
CVC 291153.1 2.65%
Soft Vortex 246363.4 2.24%
Slub 182904.5 1.66%
Combed 154699.39 1.41%
Spandex 116534.46 1.06%
Ring Yarn 93249.49 0.85%
Combed Slub 87102.82 0.79%
Combed Compact BCI 83778.01 0.76%
Blended Yarn 62647.72 0.57%
Cotton Melange 56007.63 0.51%
Combed PC 55624.49 0.51%
Vortex 39371 0.36%
Combed CVC 34700 0.32%
CV 33950 0.31%
Liva Eco 32499.98 0.30%
CVC Ring 32097 0.29%
PC 26890.5 0.24%
Semi Dull 22773 0.21%
Cotton Melange Slub 22375 0.20%
PC Ring 20959.54 0.19%
Carded Slub 17341.99 0.16%
CB Slub 17233 0.16%
Compact Carded 17000 0.15%
Recycle CVC 14696 0.13%
Filament 13996.8 0.13%
Ring Card 13138.37 0.12%
Viscose 12450 0.11%
Combed Compact Slub 11151.5 0.10%
Carded Ring 9638 0.09%
Siro Compact 8850.8 0.08%
CMIA Slub 8500 0.08%
Combed Recycle CVC 7888 0.07%
 126

Blended Yarn 7800 0.07%

Combed Compact 7695.1 0.07%
Spandex 7004.16 0.06%
Organic Carded 5500 0.05%
VP 5350 0.05%
Grey Melange 4533.88 0.04%
CVC Melange 4089.05 0.04%
Melange Slub 3935.54 0.04%
Carded CMIA 3686.1 0.03%
CVC Vortex. 3300 0.03%
Carded BCI 2600 0.02%
Ring Yarn 2100 0.02%
Combed 2060 0.02%
Recycle 1800 0.02%
BCI 1787 0.02%
Combed PC 1750 0.02%
Soft Vortex 1700 0.02%
Coolmax 1503 0.01%
PV 1333 0.01%
Open End 1150 0.01%
Recycle Anthra Melange 1009.8 0.01%
Carded 1000 0.01%
Siro 954.27 0.01%
Pima 700 0.01%
100% Cotton Yarn 650 0.01%
Poly CD Yarn 480 0.00%
Modal Poly 438 0.00%
Cotton Melange 385.9 0.00%
ACY 359.81 0.00%
NYLON 352.4 0.00%
Ecovero 350 0.00%
DTY SD SIM 300 0.00%
OE 251 0.00%
PC Slub 240 0.00%
Airy Toyobo 220.5 0.00%
Mercerize 220 0.00%
Dyeable 218.16 0.00%
Fully Drawn yarn 200 0.00%
Melange 200 0.00%
COMBED SIRO 150 0.00%
Dyed Yarn 144.7 0.00%
Monofilament 120 0.00%
CVC Soft Vortex 112 0.00%
Melange Combed 100 0.00%
RING POLYESTER 100 0.00%
Recycle PC 100 0.00%
 127

Autocoro 100 0.00%

Ring Slub 100 0.00%
Lycra 95.4 0.00%
Inject 94.8 0.00%
Semi Dull [SIM] 90 0.00%
Blank 85.5 0.00%
Supima Combed Compact 80 0.00%
Siro Melange 77 0.00%
CM 56 0.00%
Lurex Golden 53 0.00%
CVC Slub 50 0.00%
Full Dull 50 0.00%
DTY 50 0.00%
Su-Pima 50 0.00%
PC Vortex 40.1 0.00%
Compact 40 0.00%
Supima Combed 40 0.00%
PC Melange 37.5 0.00%
Special 36 0.00%
Cool Plus 36 0.00%
Siro Slub 23 0.00%
MULTI COLOR NEPS 20 0.00%
Bamboo Viscose 20 0.00%
S-Twist 20 0.00%
Z-Twist 20 0.00%
Triblend 20 0.00%
Ring Spun 20 0.00%
Snow 15 0.00%
Neppy 11 0.00%
Tencel 10 0.00%
Total Quantity = 10991373.96

Yarn Composition (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-8):

Received Quantity Percentage

Yarn Composition
(Kg) (%) of total

BCI Cotton 100% 5692682.39 51.79%

Cotton 100% 1703090.8 15.49%
SD DTY SIM POLYESTER 100% 654906.44 5.96%
60% Cotton 40% Polyester 100% 630712.15 5.74%
 128

Organic Cotton 100% 265846.32 2.42%

CMIA Cotton 100% 183028.99 1.67%
BCI Combed Compact Cotton 100% 170044.89 1.55%
60% BCI Cotton 40% Recylcle Polyester 100% 158400 1.44%
90% BCI Cotton 10% Viscose 100% 153649.99 1.40%
65% Recycle Polyester 35% BCI Cotton 100% 119593.51 1.09%
Elastane 100% 101206.5 0.92%
50% Cotton 50% Polyester 100% 93954.62 0.85%
60% BCI Cotton 40% Polyester 100% 70044.8 0.64%
SD DTY NIM POLYESTER 100% 63033 0.57%
80% CMIA Cotton 20% Polyester 100% 61300 0.56%
65% Polyester-35% BCI Cotton 100% 56319.54 0.51%
60% CMIA Cotton 40% Modal 100% 52950 0.48%
60% Cotton-40% Viscose 100% 50869.84 0.46%
90% Cotton - 10% Viscose 100% 50206 0.46%
60% CMIA Cotton 40% Polyester 100% 37341.6 0.34%
50% CD Polyster-50% SD Polyester [DTY SIM]
35716 0.32%
100%
80% Cotton 20% Polyester 100% 35140.7 0.32%
50% CD Polyester 50% SD Recycle Polyester
33118 0.30%
[DTY SIM] 100%
65% Polyester 35% Cotton 100% 28475.5 0.26%
FD DTY SIM POLYESTER 100% 25131 0.23%
65% Polyester-35%Cotton 100% 24710.8 0.22%
99% Cotton 1% Viscose 100% 23050 0.21%
50% Cotton-50% Polyester 100% 22530.9 0.20%
CD Polyester 100% 19274 0.18%
Viscose 100% 17442.8 0.16%
60% Cotton 40% Recycle Polyester 100% 16900 0.15%
65% Viscose 35% Polyester 100% 16132.55 0.15%
90% Cotton 10% Polyester 100% 15404.29 0.14%
90% CMIA Cotton 10% Polyester 100% 15150 0.14%
100% Viscose 100% 14900 0.14%
100% Elastane 100% 14008.32 0.13%
100 % GOTS Organic Cotton 100% 13950 0.13%
90% Cotton 10% Viscose 100% 13900.2 0.13%
65% Recycle Polyester 35% Ecovero Viscose
13421 0.12%
100%
60% OCS Cotton 40% Modal 100% 12682 0.12%
85% Cotton-15% Viscose 100% 11949.66 0.11%
99% BCI Cotton-1% Viscose 100% 11499.99 0.10%
80% Organic Cotton 20% polyester 100% 11000 0.10%
99% Cotton-1% Viscose 100% 10050 0.09%
98% BCI Cotton-2% Viscose 100% 8700 0.08%
BCI Cotton 100% 8675.1 0.08%
 129

65% Cotton 35% Polyester 100% 8500 0.08%

60% CMIA Cotton 40% Recycle Polyester 100% 8450 0.08%
60% CMIA Cotton 40% Modal 100% 7800 0.07%
95% Cotton-5% Viscose 100% 6260 0.06%
85% Recycle Polyester 15% BCI Cotton 100% 6000 0.05%
50% Organic Cotton 50% Viscose 100% 5845 0.05%
70% Conventional Cotton 30% Recycle Cotton
5553 0.05%
100%
60% Cotton 40% Polyester 100% 5550 0.05%
70% BCI Cotton - 30% Seacell 100% 5547.58 0.05%
80% Ecovero Visscose 20% Polyester 100% 5350 0.05%
50% CMIA Cotton 50% Viscose 100% 5250 0.05%
93% Cotton 7% Viscose 100% 4200 0.04%
70% Cotton 30% Recycle Cotton 100% 4130 0.04%
100% CD Polyester 100% 3852 0.04%
80% BCI Cotton-20% Polyester 100% 3520 0.03%
MVS Polyester 100% 3412.48 0.03%
70% Recycle Cotton 30% Cotton 100% 3400 0.03%
65% Polyester-35% Organic Cotton 100% 3250 0.03%
100% Cotton 100% 2925 0.03%
99% Organic Cotton-1% Viscose 100% 2750 0.03%
93% Cotton-7% Viscose 100% 2665 0.02%
75% BCI cotton 25% Recycle cotton 100% 2500 0.02%
SD ATY SIM 100% 2498.92 0.02%
65% Recycle Polyester 35% BCI Cotton 100% 1750 0.02%
70% Cotton 30% Viscose 100% 1713 0.02%
65% Polyester 35% Cmia Cotton 100% 1700 0.02%
70% Organic Cotton 30% Viscose 100% 1650 0.02%
Spandex 100% 1633.2 0.01%
65% Recycle Poly 35% Viscose 100% 1530 0.01%
Combed BCI Cotton 100% 1504.32 0.01%
93% BCI Cotton-7% Viscose 100% 1500 0.01%
65% Polyester 35% Viscose 100% 1437 0.01%
65% Cotton-35% Polyester 100% 1400 0.01%
Pima Cotton 100% 1400 0.01%
93% Organic Cotton-7% Viscose 100% 1250 0.01%
75% Cotton 25% Recycle Cotton 100% 1100 0.01%
95% BCI Cotton 5% Viscose 100% 1000 0.01%
Polyester 100% 962 0.01%
85% BCI Cotton-15% Viscose 100% 900 0.01%
70% Cotton 30% Seacell 100% 899.64 0.01%
80% Viscose-20% Polyester 100% 867.7 0.01%
90% Organic Cotton-10% Viscose 100% 850 0.01%
70% Cotton 30% Recycled Cotton 100% 850 0.01%
50% Cotton 50% Modal 100% 762.89 0.01%
 130

Good Earth Cotton 100% 700 0.01%

BCI Combed Cotton 100% 667.8 0.01%
50% Modal 50% Linen 100% 563.99 0.01%
75% Cotton 25% Cotton Recycled 100% 500 0.00%
Virgin CTP 100% 480 0.00%
65% Modal 35% Polyester 100% 438 0.00%
95% Organic Cotton 5% Viscose 100% 400 0.00%
70% BCI Cotton 30% Recycle Cotton 100% 400 0.00%
60% Cotton 40% Recycled Polyester 100% 400 0.00%
50% Cotton 50% Viscose 100% 355 0.00%
97% Cotton 3% Viscose 100% 350 0.00%
Nylon 66 100% 345 0.00%
99% Cotton 1% Livaeco Viscose 100% 306 0.00%
Nylon6 DTY FD 100% 302.4 0.00%
50% CD Polyster-50% SD Polyester 100% 300 0.00%
75% BCI Cotton-25% Viscose 100% 300 0.00%
85% Organic Cotton 15% viscose 100% 250 0.00%
75% cotton 25% Viscose 100% 250 0.00%
50% Polyester-50% Viscose 100% 250 0.00%
50% Modal-50% Polyester 100% 228.5 0.00%
60% Cotton 40% Modal 100% 227 0.00%
30% Cotton 30% Recycle Cotton 40% Polyester
216 0.00%
100%
65% BCI Cotton 35% Organic Cotton 100% 200 0.00%
50% CD Polyester-50% SD Polyester 100% 200 0.00%
65% Recycled Polyester 35% Viscose 100% 200 0.00%
95% Organic Cotton 5% Viscose 100% 200 0.00%
Recycle Polyester 100% 195 0.00%
50% Modal 50% Cotton 100% 180 0.00%
Modal 100% 179 0.00%
65% Recycle Polyester - 35% Cotton 100% 173 0.00%
50% Polyester 50% Viscose 100% 173 0.00%
60% Acrylic 40% Rayon 100% 150 0.00%
50% Cotton 50% Recycle Polyester 100% 150 0.00%
75% Recycle Cotton 25% BCI Cotton 100% 150 0.00%
75% Cotton-25% Cotton Recycled 100% 150 0.00%
60% Cotton-40% Modal 100% 134 0.00%
Nylon Spandex Covered 100% 120 0.00%
85% Polyester-15% Cotton 100% 110 0.00%
Compact Cotton 100% 108 0.00%
60% Cotton-40% Giza Cotton 100% 100 0.00%
65% Polyester 35% Acrylic 100% 100 0.00%
80% Polyester 20% Cotton 100% 100 0.00%
Spandex Covered 100% 99.81 0.00%
55% Linen 45% Polyester 100% 98 0.00%
 131

88% Cotton 12% Polyester 100% 94.8 0.00%

Soukai Cotton 100% 90.9 0.00%
Nylon 6 100% 90 0.00%
60% Ecovero Viscose 40% Recycled Benma
90 0.00%
Polyester 100%
Ecovera Viscose 100% 80 0.00%
80% Cotton 20% Recycled Polyester 100% 76 0.00%
100% Polyester 100% 72 0.00%
80% Polyester-20% Tencel 100% 70 0.00%
65% Recycled Polyester 35% Cotton 100% 61.2 0.00%
71% Cotton 29% Seacell 100% 60.11 0.00%
80% Pima Cotton 20% Smartcel 100% 59.89 0.00%
98% Cotton-2% Polyester 100% 53 0.00%
60% Rayon 40% Polyester 100% 50 0.00%
50% Polyester-50% Cotton 100% 50 0.00%
100% Modal 100% 50 0.00%
50% BCI Cotton 50% Organic Cotton 100% 50 0.00%
70% BCI COTTON 30% RECYCLED COTTON
50 0.00%
100%
100% Tencel 100% 50 0.00%
50% Polyester 50% CD Polyester ATY 100% 50 0.00%
65% Polyester 35% Viscose 100% 50 0.00%
60% Lyocell 40% Polyester 100% 45.8 0.00%
Su-Prima Cotton 100% 40 0.00%
Airy Cotton 100% 31.5 0.00%
97% Cotton 3% Polyester 100% 31 0.00%
65% Recycle Polyester 35% Ecuvero Viscose
30 0.00%
100%
65% Modal-35% Polyester 100% 30 0.00%
50% CD Polyester-50% Polyester 100% 30 0.00%
80% Organic Cotton 20% Hemp 100% 30 0.00%
Cotton 100% 30 0.00%
Merino wool 100% 25 0.00%
35% Polyester 35% Viscose 30% Acrylic 100% 20 0.00%
80/20 Poly/Viscose 100% 20 0.00%
80% CMIA Cotton 20% Recycle Polyester 100% 20 0.00%
50% Cotton 50% Modal 100% 20 0.00%
50% Polyester-50% Linen 100% 18 0.00%
Linen 100% 15 0.00%
50%Polyester-38%Cotton-12%Viscose 100% 15 0.00%
100% Combed Cotton 100% 14.56 0.00%
70% Cotton 30% Hemp 100% 13 0.00%
100% Bamboo Fiber 100% 13 0.00%
74% Viscose 26% Nylon 100% 13 0.00%
70% BCI Cotton-30% Linen 100% 11 0.00%
 132

60% Polyester-40% Viscose 100% 11 0.00%

65% Recycle Polyester 35% Cotton 100% 10.4 0.00%
Tencel 100% 10 0.00%
67% Viscose 33% Linen 100% 10 0.00%
50% Tencel 50% Polyester 100% 8 0.00%
70% Tencel 30% Linen 100% 7 0.00%
69% Cotton 30% Recycled Cotton 1% Viscose
6.88 0.00%
100%
90% Cotton 10% Livaeco Viscose 100% 6 0.00%
92.5% Cotton-7.5% Viscose 100% 6 0.00%
50% Tencel 50% Modal 100% 6 0.00%
50% Viscose 50% Linen 100% 6 0.00%
70% Viscose 30% Jute 100% 5.5 0.00%
60% Polyester 40% Linen 100% 5 0.00%
Total Quantity = 10991373.96

Yarn Suppliers (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-9):

Suppliers Name Received Quantity Percentage
(Kg) (%) of total
PT. Embee Plumbon Tekstil 1479806.02 13.46%
BVM Overseas Ltd 1103873.2 10.04%
Asia Composite Mill Ltd. 922429.42 8.39%
Nitin Spinners Ltd. 708849.53 6.45%
Sudiva Spinners Private Ltd. 627898.75 5.71%
RMT Textile Mills Ltd. 331942.19 3.02%
NRG Spinning Mills Ltd 315683 2.87%
Fujian Cyclone Trading Co.,Ltd. 292184.5 2.66%
Matin Spinning Mills Ltd 248567.96 2.26%
Techno Spinning Mills Ltd 242600.98 2.21%
S.M.M Textiles Ltd 223087.49 2.03%
Pahartali Textile And Hosiery Mills 218426.8 1.99%
PT. Indo-Rama Synthetics TBK 213040.22 1.94%
N.R. Spinning Mills Ltd. 207026 1.88%
Dabiruddin Spinning Mills Ltd 197225.27 1.79%
Jiangsu Guowang High-Technique Fiber Co.Ltd 162363 1.48%
Viyellatex Spinning Ltd. 161705 1.47%
Techno Textile Mills Ltd. 159956 1.46%
Suzhou Shenghong Fiber Co.Ltd 158542.8 1.44%
Unitex Spinning Ltd 152012 1.38%
Matam Fibre Mills Ltd. 149872.7 1.36%
 133

Bros Macao Commercial Offshore Ltd 136755.81 1.24%

Multazim Spinning Mills Ltd 133140 1.21%
Amber Cotton Mills Ltd. 129237.35 1.18%
Unitex Composite Mills Ltd. 127693 1.16%
Matam Multi Fibre Mills Ltd. 125532 1.14%
Hyosung Dong Nai Co. Ltd. 116752.62 1.06%
Tamijuddin Textile Mills Ltd 115594.37 1.05%
Sport King India Ltd 112874 1.03%
A.S.F Fibre Mills Ltd. 112320 1.02%
Square Texcom Ltd. 103350 0.94%
Nrg Hometex Limited 101123 0.92%
Karim Tex Limited. 93025 0.85%
Square Textiles Plc. 89666 0.82%
Dehe Vietnam Industrial Company Limited 78933.2 0.72%
Reedisha Blended Yarn Limited 77725.58 0.71%
Israq Cotton Mills Ltd 67800 0.62%
Modern Poly Industries Ltd. 64128 0.58%
Indorama Industries Ltd 63581.51 0.58%
Square Fashion Yarns Ltd 58861 0.54%
Al-Haj Karim Textiles Limited 56236.87 0.51%
Square Textiles Ltd 54770 0.50%
SM Spinning Mills Limited 50000 0.45%
Israq Textile Mills Ltd 48721 0.44%
Danx [ Viet Nam ] Industrial Co., Ltd 48245.2 0.44%
Malek Spinning Mills Limited 46624.34 0.42%
Suraiya Spinning Mills Ltd. 38900 0.35%
Amber Super Yarn Limited 37512.78 0.34%
Danx Hongkong Trading Co. Limited 35016.56 0.32%
Akij Textile Mills Ltd 34753.41 0.32%
BSB Spinning Mills Ltd 32908.04 0.30%
Anwara Mannan Textile Mills Ltd 31069 0.28%
Jiangsu Guowang High Technique Fiber Co. Ltd 30125.4 0.27%
Hong Hu Textile Industris Ltd 29438 0.27%
Ha-Meem Spinning Mills Ltd. 23978.5 0.22%
Xianglu Fibers Co.Ltd 23430 0.21%
Karotoa Spinning Mills Ltd 18165.26 0.17%
Thermax Colour Cotton Ltd. 17995.9 0.16%
Xiamen Itg Baodarun Industrial Co., Ltd. 17319.6 0.16%
Suzhou Junhui Textile Co.Ltd 17012.4 0.15%
Indo-Thai Synthetics Co. Ltd 16661.55 0.15%
Jiangsu Reborn Eco-Tech Co.,Ltd. 14348.4 0.13%
Badsha Textiles Ltd 11786.1 0.11%
Fariha Spinning Mills Ltd 8447.49 0.08%
Zhejiang Xinle Textile And Chemical Fiber Co. 7818.4 0.07%
Ltd.
Suzhou Sjx New Material Technology Co.,Ltd. 7164 0.07%
 134

Vardhman Textile Ltd 6797.5 0.06%

Prime Textile Spinning Mills Ltd. 4500 0.04%
Israq Spinning Mills Ltd. 3914 0.04%
Zhuji Zhuotai Import And Export Co.Ltd. 3852 0.04%
Pratibha Syntex 3492.48 0.03%
Hangzhou Zhongli Chemical Fiber Co. Ltd. 3000 0.03%
Wellknown Polyesters Ltd 2448.92 0.02%
Thermex Melange Spinning Mills Ltd 2200 0.02%
Suzhou Flourish Textile Co., Ltd. 2100 0.02%
Maksons Spinning Mills Ltd. 2065 0.02%
Haining Hengyi New Materials Co, Ltd 1023 0.01%
RSWM Ltd 767.64 0.01%
Hebei Oufang Import And Export Co., Ltd 719.49 0.01%
Danx [Vietnam] Industrial Co. Ltd. 664.56 0.01%
Rongsheng Pertochemical Co. Ltd 550 0.01%
Suzhou Mxc International Trade Co., Ltd 495 0.00%
Shinkong Synthetic Fibers Corporation 480 0.00%
Zhejiang Hengyi Petrochmicals Co.Ltd 468 0.00%
Sagar Manufacturers Pvt Ltd. 410 0.00%
Prutex Nylon Co., Ltd 402.4 0.00%
Xiamen Phoebee Textile Science Technology Co., 400 0.00%
Ltd.
A.Tnt SPINNING MILLS LTD 400 0.00%
Envoy Textiles Ltd. 356 0.00%
Sapphire Textile Mills Ltd 350 0.00%
Kipas Pazarlama 350 0.00%
VMT Spinning Company Ltd. 306 0.00%
Thiagarajar Mills [P] Ltd. 300 0.00%
O.N Spinning Mills Limited 300 0.00%
PT.Indoliberty Textile 250 0.00%
Xuzhou Texhong Yinlian Textile Co., Ltd 250 0.00%
PT.Elegant Textile Industry 230 0.00%
The Lycra Company 227.4 0.00%
GHCL Limited 214 0.00%
Shandong Zhink New Material Co.,Ltd 200 0.00%
Fujian Eversun Jinjiang Co.,Ltd 195 0.00%
PT. Sunrise Bumi Textiles 195 0.00%
Brotex [ Vietnam ] Co., Ltd 190.4 0.00%
Jilin Chemical Fiber Stock Co.,Ltd 172.8 0.00%
Zhuji Ruizhi Import And Export Co.,Ltd. 169.81 0.00%
Xiamen Jin Xia Technology Co., Ltd. 150 0.00%
GTN Enterprises Ltd 130 0.00%
Dongguan Yichang Plastics Textile Co., Ltd 120 0.00%
Zhejiang Gongtou Import And Export C0., Ltd 100 0.00%
Sintex Industries Ltd 100 0.00%
Arif Knitspin Limited 100 0.00%
 135

Toung Loong Textile Mfg.Com.Ltd 100 0.00%

M/S. Gtn Engineering [India] Ltd. 100 0.00%
Shandong Demi International Trade Co., Ltd 98 0.00%
Toyobo Textile Co.,Ltd. 90.9 0.00%
Fujian Jingfeng Technology Co. Ltd. 90 0.00%
Nahar Spinning Mills Limited 80 0.00%
Pallavaa Group 80 0.00%
Shaoxing Pantian Chemical Fiber Co. Limited 70.94 0.00%
Sutlej Textiles & Industries Ltd. 53 0.00%
Suzhou Polyperts Advanced Material Co.,Ltd 50 0.00%
Hmei Thread Co. Ltd Of Yibin Sichuan 50 0.00%
S.A Aanandan Mill Limited 50 0.00%
P.T. Sri Rejeki Isman TBK 50 0.00%
Cheran Spinner Private Limited 50 0.00%
Weiqiao Textile Company Ltd 50 0.00%
Hangzhou Li Xiao Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd 50 0.00%
Hong Kong Xinlon Co., Limited 41 0.00%
OCZ DIS Ticaret A.S. 40 0.00%
Aman Spinning Mills Ltd 39 0.00%
Shundao [Vietnam] Industrial Company Limited. 36 0.00%
Jaba Textile Mills Ltd 30 0.00%
S.P. Yarn 29.75 0.00%
Mosharaf Coposite Textile 28 0.00%
Ambika Cotseeds Ltd 25 0.00%
Suzhou Kingeagle Textile Co., Ltd 25 0.00%
Armada Spinning Mills Ltd. 22 0.00%
Pakiza Cotton Spinning Mills [Pvt.] Ltd. 21 0.00%
Aman Spinning Mills Ltd. 20 0.00%
Mah Spinning Mills Ltd 18 0.00%
PT. Delta Merlin Sandang Tekstil 16 0.00%
Nannu Spinning Ltd 16 0.00%
Narmada Spun Private Ltd 15 0.00%
NZ Textile Ltd 15 0.00%
Kewalram Textiles Pvt. Ltd. 12 0.00%
Eastern Spinning Mills Limited 11.5 0.00%
Ambika Cotton Mills Ltd 10 0.00%
Enayetpur Spinning Mills Ltd. 10 0.00%
DCM Nouvelle Limited 8 0.00%
Akbar Composite Ltd 6 0.00%
Shirin Spinning Mills Ltd. 6 0.00%
AB.R Spinning Mills Limited 6 0.00%
Nortex Textile Mills Ltd. 5 0.00%
Abul Kalam Spinning Mills Ltd. 5 0.00%
Khadiza Sadek Spinning Mills Ltd. 5 0.00%
Total Quantity = 10991373.96
 136

Buyers (This data is used to create Figure 3.1-10):

Buyer Name Received Quantity Percentage
(Kg) (%) of total

MnS 2641707.95 24.03%

PUMA 2375519.34 21.61%
GU 2281983.31 20.76%
PEPCO 1012944.68 9.22%
SANMAR CANADA 595789.53 5.42%
AUCHAN 543883.57 4.95%
E. FAMILY 499827.74 4.55%
FULL BEAUTY 325407.79 2.96%
LAREDOUTE 265432.52 2.41%
TORAY 63376.1 0.58%
OUTER STUFF 46336 0.42%
SEIDEN STICKER 44058.05 0.40%
TOYOSHIMA 43541 0.40%
TCHIBO 42624.1 0.39%
GLERIES LAFAYETTE 30625 0.28%
BOSSINI 30507.88 0.28%
BENETTON 30004.78 0.27%
BRANDS FASHION 24010.87 0.22%
BLAKLADER 22214.99 0.20%
ELLOS 19496.05 0.18%
MAS BD 11086.7 0.10%
VERTBAUDET 7842 0.07%
OAK AND FORT 6422 0.06%
RIDGELINE 4162.5 0.04%
MAS DIRECT BANGLADESH 3050 0.03%
KGS SOURCING 2677.1 0.02%
ABODE 2664 0.02%
COUNTRY ROAD GROUP 2394.61 0.02%
REVOLUTION 2131 0.02%
GS SOURCING 1995 0.02%
BYTOM 1750 0.02%
ABD.SO 1620 0.01%
COOP-DENMARK 1300 0.01%
TURAAG 988 0.01%
 137

DEVELOPMENT 567 0.01%

DESIGN STUDIO 559.8 0.01%
LULULEMON 370 0.00%
INDEPENDENT 211 0.00%
AYBL 100 0.00%
MNS 100 0.00%
FTML DEVELOPMENT 29 0.00%
JURITEX 23 0.00%
TWINSASIA 20 0.00%
UMBRO 20 0.00%
Total Quantity = 10991373.96