Apparel Quality Standard

For Level 3

Department of Fashion Design

Prepared by Solomon Eshetu
1 Apparel Quality Standard

INTRODUCTION TO APPAREL INDUSTRY

Apparel is one of the basic necessities of human civilization along with food, water and
shelter. The Apparel Industry reflects people’s lifestyles and shows their social and economic
status.

Process Sequence of Apparel Manufacturing

What is Quality?
Meaning of Quality
Quality can also mean meeting or exceeding customer expectations all the time.
The key here is to know accurately customer expectations on a continuing basis because
unless you know customer expectations how can you meet or exceed them?
The quality can be defined based on the following perspectives
A. Holistic Perspective
B. Product Perspective
C. Producer Perspective (Manufacturer Perspective)
D. Customer Perspective
E. Value based Perspective.
A. Holistic Perspective
Webster’s dictionary (1977) defines quality as “that which belongs to something and makes
or helps to make it what it is; characteristic element; any character or characteristic which
may make an object good or bad; the degree of excellence which a thing possesses.”
This definition helps us to look at quality from a holistic perspective and implies that even if
quality is not the same for all things; it is still inherent in all objects and actions.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

1
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
2 Apparel Quality Standard

B. Product Perspective
A product quality is represented by total set of precise and measurable characteristics or
components of a finished product.
C. Producer Perspective (Manufacturer Perspective)
From a producer or manufacture perspective, quality is defined as consistent conformance to
specifications and standards. When a product meets a company’s standards and
specifications, it has achieved the desired quality level.
The desired level may be high, low or medium or at any point in between the extremes of
range.
D. Customer Perspective
From a customer perspective quality depends on the dimensions of a product or
service that are of important to that user.
A user based definition of quality simply means that the quality is whatever the
customer says or wants – which goes back to meeting or exceeding customers‟ requirements
and expectations.

The Deming Cycle

One of the first individuals to recognize the need to focus on quality in production and
product development was W. Edwards Deming (1982), who maintained that quality is the
responsibility of the management. Deming’s management principles include adopting a
philosophy of improving products and services, remaining competitive, staying in business,
and providing jobs.
The Deming Cycle links the production, target markets and business objectives, is a five step
approach.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

2
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
3 Apparel Quality Standard

The Deming Cycle – 5 Step Approach

(1). Conduct consumer research. Use results in the planning the product
(2). Produce the product.
(3). Check the product.
(4). Market the product.
(5). Analyse the product.

E. Value based perspective

A value based definition of quality takes into consideration cost or price of a product or
service.
Form a value based approach, quality products are those that perform at acceptable prices or
conform at acceptable costs.
The question from the customer’s view point is what is the value of this product or service
to us?
How valuable is a given product or service?
What is Quality?
Quality is also the reflection of the customers‟ opinion of the value they see in your product
compared to that of your competitors.
In other words, quality is whatever the customer says it is or the customer it is or the
customer is the final judge of quality.
Quality Definition by ISO
Quality is defined by ISO (International Standards Organization) as the “the totality of
features and characteristics of a product or service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or
implied needs”
Internal and External Benefits of Quality

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

3
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
4 Apparel Quality Standard

Dimensions of Quality
The characteristics or conditions those are important to quality need to be established.
Garvin has identified eight dimensions related to quality. They are
(1). Performance
(2). Features
(3). Reliability
(4). Conformance
(5). Durability
(6). Serviceability
(7). Aesthetics
(8). Perceived Quality
1. Performance
Performance is based on the primary operating characteristics of a product.
Examples
A rain coat should be a water repellent,
A mosquito net should not allow mosquito to enter inside.
A pen should be writeable
2. Features
Features of a product are those secondary characteristics that supplement a product
basic functioning.
Examples
- baby clothing should be dressing ease, softness, durability, safety
3. Reliability
Reliability refers to the probability of product’s malfunctioning or failing within a
specified period of time.
We depend on, demand, and expect reliable products.
It takes a long time for a company to build up a reputation for reliability, and
only a short time to be branded as "unreliable" after shipping a flawed
product.
Reliability is "quality changing over time “
Reliability is a major economic factor in determining a product's success
Sometimes equipment failure can have a major impact on human safety
and/or health. Automobiles, planes, life support equipment, and power
generating plants are a few examples.
Some failures have serious social consequences and this should be taken into
account when planning reliability studies
4. Conformance
Conformance refers to the degree or extent to which a product’s design and operating
characteristics meet pre-established standards.
5. Durability & Serviceability
 Durability means the length of time a product will last or product life.
 Serviceability refers to the speed, courtesy, competence and ease of repair of a
product.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

4
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
5 Apparel Quality Standard

6. Aesthetics & Perceived Quality

 Aesthetics refers to how a product looks feels, sounds, tastes or smells.
 Perceived Quality refers to what consumers perceive to be the quality of a product
based on image, advertising, and brand name reputation.

Quality Related Terms and Definitions

Quality Management: Aspect of all the overall management function that determines
and implements the quality policy
Quality System: The organizational structure, responsibilities, procedures, processes,
and resources for implementing quality management
Quality Plan: A document setting out the specify quality practices, resources, and
activities relevant to a particular product, service, contract, or a project.
Quality Policy: The overall intentions and directions of an organisation as regards
quality as formally expressed by top management
Quality Assurance: All those planned or systematic actions necessary to provide
adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality.
Quality Control: The operational techniques and activities required to fulfil the
requirements for quality
Statistical Quality Control: The application of statistical techniques to the control of
quality.
Inspection: Activities such as measuring, examining, testing, gauging, one or more
characteristics of a product or service, and comparing these with the specified requirements
to determine conformity.
Testing: A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified requirements
by subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical, environmental, or operating actions
and conditions.
Introduction to Quality Assurance

Quality Assurance: All those planned or systematic actions necessary to provide

adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality.
1. The Textile Industry Complex
The textile industry complex indicates suppliers of
Raw material and processed materials,
Sewn product
manufacturers,
Wholesalers, and Retailers.
1.1. Raw Materials

Raw materials include the unprocessed components used to produce a product. Raw
materials include fibres, yarns, dyes, finishing chemicals and other materials as plastics and
metals that are processed into buttons, zippers and other items that are used to produce
finished goods.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

5
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
6 Apparel Quality Standard

1.2. Sewn product manufacturers

Sewn product manufacturers make apparel, furnishings and industrial products. These
manufacturers often incorporate other activities such as fusing and dyeing, into the
production process.
They may sell their products to wholesalers or directly to consumers.

1.3. Retailers
Retailers present merchandise to the consumers via stores, catalogues, websites, TV, direct sales, and
other venues. Many manufacturers and retailers have off-shore production facilities or work with
contractors who produce goods.
1.4. Consumers
Consumers are the individuals who use or wear finished textile products. Consumers
include consumers, companies, such as sewn product manufacturers who buy fabric and other
materials, and retailers who buy quantities of identical products for sale to the consumer.
Textile quality Assurance
Textile quality assurance is the process of designing, producing, evaluating, and
assessing the products to determine that they meet the desired quality level for a company’s
target market. It is based on the knowledge of
 Textiles  Consumer behaviour
 Design  Product and process evaluation
 Merchandising  Marketing
 Production  Statistics
Phases of Quality Assurance

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

6
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
7 Apparel Quality Standard

Introduction to Quality Control

Quality control (QC) includes the activities from the suppliers, through production, and
to the customers. Incoming materials are examined to make sure they meet the appropriate
specifications.
The qualities of partially completed products are analysed to determine if production
processes are functioning properly.
Finished goods and services are studied to determine if they meet customer expectations
QC throughout Production Systems
Inputs Conversion Outputs

Raw Materials, Production Products and

Parts and Supplies Process Services

Quality of Inputs Quality of partially Quality of outputs

completed products

QUALITY CONTROL ASPECTS OF GARMENT EXPORTS

There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based
such as –
 Performance,
 Reliability,
 Durability,
 Visual and Perceived quality of the garment
Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.
Costs of Quality Failure
Defects are not free; someone makes them and gets paid for the privilege”
Cost of Internal Failure Cost of External Failure
 Scrapped materials, goods and services  Warranty and servicing costs
 Rework/ retest  Product liability / Litigation
 Reduced capacity/ yield/ increased  Complaints and their administration
downtime  Loss of customer goodwill
 Rescheduling  Inconvenience to other customers
 Service delays
 Disruption to the service process.
 Focus is on troubleshooting not
improvement

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

7
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
8 Apparel Quality Standard

The Economic Costs of Quality

COST OF PREVENTION COST OF APPRAISAL /Evaluation/

 Quality planning  Testing and Inspection of supplier

 Design of quality system goods and services
 Staff quality training and development  Testing and Inspection of internal
 Preventative maintenance service processes
 Supplier development training  Measurement of customer
 Administering quality procedures (e.g. satisfaction after process
ISO 9001)  Quality Audits
 Time spent problem - solving,
improving process
 Measurement of customer satisfaction
during process

 Points to note down for quality in garment

manufacturing system
Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment
manufacturing for export basis:
 Overall look of the garment.
 Right formation of the garment.
 Feel and fall of the garment.
 Physical properties.
 Colour fastness of the garment.
 Finishing properties
 Presentation of the final produced garment.
Quality Standards and Quality Grade
Many companies have established sets of expectations for the products they produce or sell.
These expectations describe various factors, including the sizes or size range, features or style
components, appearance aspects, materials, and performance.
What is Standards?
We have all come across the term “standard” or “standards” in reference to quality control,
but what exactly is a standard and who makes the standards?
A standard may be defined as
 Something that is established by the authority, custom or general agreement as a
model for example to be followed;
 Something established for use as a rule or basis of comparison in measuring or
judging capacity, quantity, content, extent, value, quality, etc.
 The type, the model for example commonly or generally accepted or adhered to;
criterion set for usage or practice;
 A level of excellence, attainment, etc. regarded as a measure of adequacy.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

8
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
9 Apparel Quality Standard

Standards are commonly agreed upon aids for communication and trade. Standards are
“set of characteristics or procedures that provide a basis for resource and production
decisions”.
Standards are used to define the quality level, characteristics and performance for a firm’s
products.
Levels of Standards
There are various levels of standards
Company Standards: - These standards are useful to the company’s design,
development, production, purchasing, and quality control departments. These standards may
be those developed by the company itself or developed by some other organizations and
adopted by the company as its own standards.
Industry Standards: - These standards are typically developed by a trade association or
professional society. For example, American Chemical Society has for many years
maintained specifications for chemical reagents.
Government Standards: - These are standards either developed by the government or
developed by other organizations and adopted by the government. The government
standards generally tend to be related to safety or well-being of the people.
Full consensus standards: - These are the standards developed by the representatives
of all sectors, such as industry, consumer, government, academia, who have an interest in
use of these standards either as a producer or consumer.
Types of Standards
ASTM develops six types of full-consensus standards
 Test methods
 Specifications
 Practices
 Terminology
 Guides
 Classifications
Test methods: A definite procedure for identification, measurement, and evaluation of
one or more qualities, characteristics, or properties of a material, product, system or service
that produces a test result.
Specifications: A detailed statement of set of requirements to be satisfied by a material,
product, system, or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the
requirements is satisfied.
Practices: A definite procedure for performing one or more specific operations or
functions that does not produce a test result.
Terminology: A document comprising definitions of terms, descriptions of terms, and
explanations of symbols, abbreviations.
Guide: A series of options or instructions that do not recommend a specific course of
action. Guides suggest approaches, offer guidance for a procedure, increase awareness of
available techniques and provide information regarding evaluation and standardization.
Classification: A systematic arrangement of materials, products, systems or services into
groups based on the similar characteristics such as origin, composition, properties, or use.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

9
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
10 Apparel Quality Standard

Other types of Standards in the Industry

 A Company Standard
 Industry Standards
 Voluntary Standards
 Mandatory Standards
Company Standards
 A company standard reflects a agreement among employees for products or services
provided.
 Company standards are used throughout the company in product development,
production, purchasing and quality assurance.
 Company standards describe general characteristics or features of a product or service
or they describe a required level of performance.
Industry Standards
 Industry standards reflects agreement among many companies in an industry or
among individual members of a profession.
 Industry standards are not common in the textile industry in terms of product
performance.
 Very few industry wide standards exist for performance of materials, in spite of
what retailers may indicate.
 Standards are much more common in terms of materials.
 There are several standard types on the market, so that companies can buy the type
and quality needed for their products
Voluntary Standards
 Voluntary Standards allow individuals or companies to determine on their own
whether to adopt standard.
 ASTM standards are examples of voluntary standards. No organization or group
forces adoption of these standards.
 However voluntary standards may become incorporated into laws, regulations or
contracts.
Mandatory Standards
 With mandatory standards, adoption is required, generally by a law or regulation.
Most mandatory standards relate to safety or health issues.
 For example, with textile products, children’s sleepwear has to meet mandatory
standards in terms of its minimal burning behaviour.
Different Textile and Apparel Standards
Sources of Standards
In an industry with so many segments and interests, communicating quality requirements
and supplying goods of the appropriate quality level are difficult.
Professional and trade organizations have developed to educate members and enhance
communication among industry segments.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

10
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
11 Apparel Quality Standard

Organizations
Several organizations which are available for quality standards
 identify and define terms,
 develop consistent practices within the field for describing and evaluating materials
and process,
 encourage fair trade practices,
 Develop technological advances to remain competitive in the world market and
promote the textile industry.
Major organizations for Quality Standards
1. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists (AATCC)
2. American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
3. American Society for Quality (ASQ)
4. American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA)
5. TC2 Textile / Clothing Technology Corp
6. American National Standards Institute (ANSI)
7. International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
ISO – International Organization for Standardization
International Organization for Standardization is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies from some 100 countries, one from each country.
ISO is a non-governmental organization established in 1947. The mission of ISO is to
promote the development of standardization and related activities in the world with view to
facilitating the international exchange of goods and services, and to developing cooperation
in the sphere of intellectual, scientific, technological and economic activity.

Elements of ISO 9000 Standards

1. Management responsibility 12. Inspection and test status
2. Quality System 13. Control of nonconforming product
3. Contract Review 14. Corrective and preventive action
4. Design Control 15. Handling, storage, packaging,
5. Documents and data control preservation and delivery
6. Purchasing 16. Control of quality audits
7. Customer-supplied product 17. Internal quality audits
8. Product identification and traceability 18. Training
9. Process Control 19. Servicing
10. Inspection and Testing 20. Statistical Techniques
11. Control of Inspection, measuring, and test
equipment

Quality Specification

Specifications: -
A specification or spec is a precise statement of a set of requirements to be satisfied by a
material, product, system, or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether
each of the requirements is satisfied.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

11
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
12 Apparel Quality Standard

Two important elements in Specifications

 The numbers used in writing specs address two important elements in Specifications:
(1) MINIMUMS &
(2) TOLERANCES
Minimums
 A minimum is the least or low acceptable value for any given parameter or dimension.
 Establishing minimums can be very difficult task because it is these values that
encompass performance, appearance, and quality of the product.
Tolerances
 A tolerance describes the range of acceptable values, or in other words, it describes
allowable deviations from specified values.
 Tolerances identify the acceptable range of variation from a specification. When
reviewing specs for products, tolerances are more likely to be listed as ranges of
behaviour than as minimums, as was the situation with the materials.

Key element in Specification

 The final key element in specifications is the inclusion of procedures for analysis and
evaluation. The procedure, test method, or process must be identified in detail in the
specification.
 In terms of materials performance, this detailed procedure usually refers to a standard
test method, such as those developed by ASTM or AATCC.
 In terms of other aspects, such as product dimensions, diagrams and detailed
explanations or procedures may be included. Identification of procedures is critical,
because they ultimately measure whether the product conforms to specifications and is
acceptable to the company and its target.

Types of Specification
Companies develop specifications for a product or a material as
 An open or
 Closed specification.
Open Specification
An open specification describes what is wanted and leaves the field open to any supplier
who can meet the requirements specified. Open specifications can include general
information or very specific information regarding fabric mass, resistance to fading, or
whatever performance and design features are required.
Open specifications are used to locate appropriate materials that would satisfy the target
market
Closed specification
A closed specification specifies the exact material, component, or product by the
manufacturer or vendor and includes style numbers, trade names, or other specific identifiers.
All producers or vendors except for the one specified are restricted in submitting a bid.
Closed specifications are used for the production purposes, pricing and for items that must
incorporate specific materials.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

12
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
13 Apparel Quality Standard

Types of specifications used by various industries

Some of these are having little relation to textile products. Others may be of interest when
dealing with specific textile products.
 Target Specification:
Target specifications relate to the understanding the company’s focus in terms of the product
type, price point, and target market needs and expectations.
 Functional specifications
Functional specifications for textile products relate to performance requirements.
 Product specification
Product specification includes elements related to production: seam and stich type, equipment
to be used for each operation, and the aspects related to quality.
 Materials Specification
Materials Specification for textile products combines identification of the characteristics of
each material (its type, quality characteristics, description, and condition) with the function or
performance aspects.
 Process specification
Process specification addresses all processes, including pattern and marker making, spreading
and cutting, sewing, finishing, packaging and shipment. Product specifications should address
the issues related to product quality.
 Inspection specifications
Inspection specifications include in-process inspection, final inspection, or acceptable
inspection. These specifications, will describe how and when to inspect products.
 Test specifications
Test specifications describe the procedures to follow in evaluating the process or the product
before, during, or after production.
 Acceptance Specifications
Acceptance specifications often address aspects relate to the appearance, performance,
labelling, and packaging.
 Installation Specifications
It is the detail instructions necessary for installing products on site ready for use. Probably
prepared by the design or product development and engineering divisions.
 Use Specifications
Use specifications include information and special instructions that users will need to enable
them to use the product in its intended manner.
 Maintenance Specifications
Maintenance specifications gives in details the procedures to be followed to ensure that the
product receives correct maintenance at required intervals.
 Disposal Specifications
Identifies any special requirements in terms of disposal of the product. May be included with
the recyclable products.
 Procurement Specifications
Provide a total picture of the what, where, when and how expected of the product so that
prospective suppliers know what is expected of them. Used by buying organizations to
procure relatively complex products that must meet variety of requirements related to
materials, functional, inspection, test and acceptance areas.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

13
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
14 Apparel Quality Standard

Fabric Inspection Systems

Inspection
Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as the visual examination or
review of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing threads, trims etc,), partially
finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some
standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they
meet the required measurements.
Inspection Loop
For inspection to be effective, the entire inspection loop is shown below must be completed.

The inspection is divided into the following three sections

1). Raw Material Inspection
2). In-process Inspection
3). Final Inspection

1)Raw Material Inspection

Fabric Inspection
After fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality
viewpoint; otherwise extra cost in garment manufacturing may be incurred due to either the
loss of the material or time, to say nothing of customers returns and dissatisfaction due to
poor quality.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

14
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
15 Apparel Quality Standard

There are various fabric inspection systems, as listed below. However, the 4-point system
and 10-point system are used most widely.
1. 4 – Point System
2. 10 – Point System
3. Graniteville “78” system
4. Dallas System.
5. Textile Distribution Institute (National Federation of Textiles-1955) System
6. 4 – Point System revised.
1. Point System
The 4 – Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers‟ Association
(AAMA) point grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of
apparel fabrics and by the department of Defines in United States and is endorsed by the
AAMA as well as the American Society for Quality Control (ASQC).
Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the following.

Length of the defect in fabric, either Points

warp or weft wise direction allotted
Up to 3 inches 1
Over 3 inches up to 6 Inches 2
Over 6 inches up to 9 inches 3
Over 9 inches 4
Holes and openings (Large Dimensions)
1 inch or less 2
Over 1 Inch 4

The total defect points per 100 square yard are calculated, and normally those fabric
rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 square yard are considered as “seconds”.
However, a garment may use more or less than 40 points per 100 square yards as acceptance
criteria.
Points per 100 Square yards = Total points scored in the roll X 3600_
Fabric width in inches X total yards inspected.
Defects which must be scored includes:
A. Bar – Filling wise thick place, thin place, coarse yarn or fine yarn.
B. Bad Selvedge – Loose, tight, beaded, raged etc.
C. Broken End – A warp yarn missing for a portion of its length
D. Chafe – An area where the fabric has been damaged by abrasion or friction.
E. Coarse End or Pick – A warp or weft yarn having larger diameter or more plies than
normally used in the fabric.
F. End Out – A warp end missing from the entire length of the cloth.
G. Fine End – A warp yarn having smaller diameter or less plies than normally used in the
fabric.
H. Flat – Two or more threads weaved as one and not meant to be a feature of the weave.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

15
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
16 Apparel Quality Standard

I. Float – A thread that extend unwoven over the threads of the opposite set with which it
should normally be interlaced.
J. Fly – loose fibres not originating from the fabric or foreign mater that have been woven
into the fabric.
K. Fuzz Balls – Loose fibres originated from within the fabric that have formed balls and is
woven into the fabric.
L. Hard Size – An excessive quantity of size material.
M. Double Pick – An extra pick dragged into shed with the correct pick for a portion of the
width of the fabric
N. Kink (Snarl) – A short length of yarn spontaneously doubled on itself.
O. Miss pick – A pick woven in the wrong order with respect to the weave or colour pattern.
P. Missing End – A warp wise streak causing the improper spacing of the warp across the
fabric.
Q. Mixed Yarn – Yarn that differs from that used in normal.
R. Reed Mark -- A warp wise streak caused by damage reed.
S. Smash – An area where the fabric been ruptured by breakage of large number of ends.
T. Temple Mark – Disturbance of the appearance at the temple region.
U. Tight end or pick
V. Torn/undecided/ Selvedge

2. 10-Point System
Under this system, fabric defects are assigned point values based on the following.
Length of the defects Points
allotted
Warp defects
Up to 1” 1
1” to 5” 3
5” to 10” 5
10” to 36” 10
Weft defects
Up to 1” 1
1” to 5” 3
5” to ½ Width 5
More than ½ Width 10
For width less than 50”
First Quality = Total Defect Points < Total Yards inspected
Otherwise it is second Quality
For more than 50” width
First Quality = Total Defects X 1.1 Points < Total Yards Inspected.
Maximum defects allotted /yard = 10. Otherwise it is second quality.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

16
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
17 Apparel Quality Standard

2) In-Process Inspection
In-process inspection means the inspection of parts before they are assembled into a
complete product. In apparel manufacturing, this means inspection at various points in the
entire manufacturing process from spreading to pressing / finishing.
(Pattern, Marker, Spreading and Cutting room defects)
S. Defect Description
No

Pattern Grading Defects

01 Grade not conforming to Finished product not measuring to specified
dimensions and component parts not fitting in
Specification Measurements
relationship to notches, openings, and seams such as
armholes, sleeve heads, neck bands, neck openings,
side seams, inseams and waist measurements etc.,

02. Distorted Grading: Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted

seams, puckering, pleating and a general
uneconomical yardage waste.

Marking Defects
03. Shaded Parts: All component pans not included in same section.

04. Pieces not Symmetrical Will not sew together without puckering or pleating.

05. Not Marked by Directional Lines: Bias will not fit together, causing twisting,
puckering, pleating and a general mismatching of
component parts.
06. Skimpy marking Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.
Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
07. Notches and Punch Marks: Left out, not clearly marked or misplaced.

08. Marker Too Wide Parts will not catch in the lay causing skimpy
garments or requiring recuts
09. Marker Too Narrow Results in wasted material.
10. Mismatched Plaids Marker did not block component parts to match.

11. Misdirected Napping Patterns not marked in same direction on napped

fabrics

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

17
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
18 Apparel Quality Standard

Spreading Defects
12. Uneven Spreading: Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or
back edge of marker not catching all plies.
13. Narrow Material Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker
width
14. Missed Sectional Breaks: Sectional marker breaks too long or too short. Parts
in lay will be short or material wasted.
15. Improper Tension Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not
to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.

16. Mismatching Plaids: Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid
lines to run diagonally or bow.

17. Misdirected Napping: Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed
in spreading.
18. Improper Matching of Face of Not spread face down, face up or face to face as
Material required

Cutting Defects
19 Marker or Perforator Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both edges
causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too
loose distorting dimensions of garment. Perforated
stencil not powdered, or inked sufficiently to show
distinct lines, notches and punch marks

20. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Attached to, or marked on, wrong bundles causing
Bundle Members mixed sizes and/or shades.
21. Drill Marks Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or
wrong side drill used.
22. Opening Slits Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not
cut through ·entire bundle or omitted.
23. Improper Cutting Not following marker lines resulting in distorted
parts. Letting knife lean, causing top and bottom ply
to be of different sizes.
24. Notches Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
25. Oil Spots Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

18
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
19 Apparel Quality Standard

26. Improper Knife Sharpening Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles.

27 Knife or Scissors Cut Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece

Shade Marking Defects

28. Pencil or Machine marking Too dark, too light, bleeding through, not legible or
marked on wrong side.
29. Stains Ink stains from stamping or pin ticket machines.
30. Thermos ply or Pin Ticket marking: Improperly placed or marked

31. Mixed Plies Results in mixed shades

Sewing Defects
1. Needle damage are evidenced by holes, picked threads, ruptured threads or other
damage to the fabric; caused by wrong size or type of the needle, blunt needle, needle
heat, or machine feeding difficulty.
2. Feed damage, particularly on thicker sheer fabrics, or when machining over
transverse seams, from incorrect type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot, improper
alignment of feed and foot, damaged throat plate, excessive machine speed.
3. Skipped Stitches, from the hook irregularly failing to pick up the loop of thread from
a needle’s eye owing to a number of causes.
4. Thread breaks, arising from too thick a thread for needle, too thin a thread, needle
heat, operator working un rhythmically, or too tight tensions.
5. Broken stitches, arising from the wrong stitch type, too tight tensions, a badly formed
joint in the seam where the second line of the stitch runs over the first and cracks it,
sharp feeds, and too great a pressure.
6. Seam grin, arising from too loose a tension or too large a stitch, or use of the wrong
stitch type.
7. Seam pucker, because of incorrect handling by the operator, misaligned notches, or
tight tensions.
8. Pleated seams, an extreme form of seam pucker, where operator failed to ease
fullness evenly
9. Wrong stitch density. Too many give rise to jamming and rapture of fabric threads;
too few to grinning or weak seams
10. Uneven stitch density. Operator causes machine to snatch and does not allow
machine to control fabric.
11. Staggered stitch, from faulty feed motion, incorrect needle, and other machine parts.
Improperly formed stitches, caused by bad tension, incorrectly adjusted timing, ill-
fitting machine components.
12. Oil spots or stains.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

19
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
20 Apparel Quality Standard

Seaming Defects
Seaming defects are usually caused by the errors arising from the interaction of the operator
and the machine in the handling of the garment.
A. Incorrect or uneven width of inlay, arising from bad handling by operator, incorrectly
set guide, incorrectly adjusted folder. In extreme cases, the seams burst open, raw
edges show, slippage of weave threads occur, or notches are exposed.
B. Irregular or incorrect shape of the sewing line (sometimes called run-offs) in top
stitching, arising from lack of or badly set guide, not following a mark, or incorrect
handling.
C. Insecure back stitching, because subsequent rows do not cover the first row of
stitching.
D. Twisted seam leading to irregular puckering or the garment parts not hanging
correctly when worn; caused by improper alignment of fabric parts, mismatched
notches, and allowing one ply to creep against another.
E. Mismatched check or stripes
F. Mismatched seam, where transverse seams do not match (e.g., inside leg seams at the
fork of the trousers)
G. Extraneous part caught in seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam.
H. Reversed garment part, where part is sewn with the face side opposite from
specification, perhaps when the part cut for one side of the garment is sewn in the
other, or when the whole garment is assembled inside out.
I. Blind stitching showing on the face side, or not securely caught on inside, arising
from improperly adjusted bender.
J. Wrong seam or stitch type used.
K. Wrong shade of thread used.

Assembly Defects
Assembly defects are perhaps caused by errors arising in marking and cutting, as well as
sewing operations in the sewing room, or a combination of these.
1. Finished components not correct to size or shape or not symmetrical
2. Finished garment not to size, arising from incorrect patterns, inaccurate marking or
cutting, shrinking or stretching fabric, incorrect seam widths.
3. Parts, components, closures, fixtures omitted, caused by bad work flow, wrongly
printed work tickets, parts omitted in cutting, careless operator.
4. Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned arising from incorrect
marking, or sewing not following the mark. (e.g., pockets, bar tacks, top stitching,
button holes, buttons, hooks and bars, hooks and eyes, zips).
5. Interlining incorrectly positioned, twisted, too full, too tight, cockling.
6. Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,
incorrectly pleated and so on.
7. Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness; for example,
collar in relation to the under collar or the neck, sleeve in relation to the armhole,
pockets, tapes, zips, pads in relation to the shoulder.
8. Garment parts shaded owing to being mixed after cutting

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

20
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
21 Apparel Quality Standard

9. Parts in one- way fabrics in wrong direction, usually only small parts, such as
pockets.
10. Mismatched trimming.

Glossary of sewing room defects

S. No Defect Description
01 Scissors or Knife Cut Self-explanatory
02. Tear Usually the result of excessive strain or snagging on
the manufacturing machinery.
03. Needle Chew Caused by use of wrong or blunt needle or machine
feeding difficulty
04. Incorrect Material Shading Where components do not match exactly as to shade
05. Spots or Stains Normally the result of a defective machine or a dirty
work area.
06. Loose Threads Can be caused either by malformed stitching or poor
trimming techniques
07. Puckered Seams An irregular seam surface usually caused by
a) Inherent fabric characteristic, b) Needle puncture,
c) Machine feed slippage or d) incorrect machine
application
08 Pleated Seams Caused by incorrect machine attachments. Machine
sewing parts too large or small for fabric or seam
desired irregularly cut patterns or fabric irregularities
and operator feeding fabric faster than normal
feeding action of the machine.
09 Thread Breaks Wrong thread application, sewing machine
malfunction, defective thread.
10 Insecure Backstitching Original stitch row not covered with second seam.
11. Wrong Shade of Thread Either caused by basic purchasing error,
manufacturing defect by thread supplier or operator
selecting wrong colour from thread bin.
12. Irregular Gauge of Stitching Not using correct sewing machine or using single
needle machine where a multiple needle machine is
required
13. Open Seams Incorrect folder or poor operator technique.
Sometime results from poor selection of type of
seam for fabric used or purpose of seam in garment.
14. Run Off Operator not following marking or not using
mechanical aids such as edge guides to assure
uniform stitching.
15. Wrong Seam or Stitch Type Management error in selection-or operating personnel
failing to follow specifications
16. Loose Thread Tension Tensions not adjusted correctly by operator
17. Tight Thread Tension Tensions not adjusted correctly by operator
18. Wrong Stitches per Inch Normally caused by operators who lengthen stitch to
increase machine speed

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

21
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
22 Apparel Quality Standard

19. Skipped Stitch Caused by machine malfunction or excessive needle

heat due to friction.
20. Broken Stitches Often times the fault of wrong type of stitch for
specific seam construction. Could be caused by
excessive tightness in machine tensions
21. Closures Omitted Normally an oversight by operators or failure by
inspectors
22. Closures Misplaced. Inattention or inexperience by operating personnel or
improper alignment with gauges.
23. Finished Components Not Could be caused by faulty pattern, cutting, previous
measuring to Tolerances operations in stitching or by indifferent operator
attention to the specified tolerance
24. Dimensions out of Tolerance Could be caused by faulty pattern, cutting, previous
operations in stitching or by indifferent operator
attention to the specified tolerance.
25. Notches Exposed Poor operator technique and execution in not
covering notch with seam.
26. Omission of Any Part of Garment Poor work flow, inattentive operator. wrong work
tickets or poor inspection
27. Twisted Seam Caused by improper alignment of fabric pieces.
uneven tension or pull on plies being stitched
28. Pieces Not Aligned Pieces sewn together not matched to each other
29. Reversed pieces Where piece is sewn with face side opposite from
specification; where part cut for one side of garment
sewn in other.
30. Excessive Fullness Caused where piece surface not smoothed prior to
stitching.
31. Uneven Edge Where stitching not straight or improperly formed in
creasing machine
32. Ragged Edges Usually occurs where knives on automatic button-
hole machines do not dip smoothly.
33. Uncut Buttonhole Where knife failed to cut button-hole
34. United Stitch Where tying stitches on automatic machines fail to
secure.
35. Hole Damage caused by faulty machine or related
equipment
36. Faulty Gauging Where operator has not sewn seam to specified
Margin
37. Misaligned Closure Closure components do not line up
38. Misplaced Component Where part not positioned according to specifications
39. Misaligned Seam Where seams .do not line up or cross specified point
40. Mislocated Reinforcement Where bar tack or brad not in proper location
41. Uneven Stitch Caused by operator speeding up machine too rapidly
or by holding back or pushing fabric through
machine in variance with correct machine feed

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

22
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
23 Apparel Quality Standard

42. Needle Pick Failure of operator to replace a dull needle

43. Fixed Place Where a component of part of a garment been fixed
in an unrelated operation.

3)Final Inspection
Final inspection consists of inspecting finished garments from the
consumer’s point of view; size measurement; form fitting (putting garments on
the proper-size mannequins to see if they properly fit the labelled sizes); and
live modelling if necessary (again to see if the garments properly fit the
labelled sizes).
Final inspection may occur before or after garments are packed in polybags
and boxes. If it is done after garments are packed, then proper size and style
markings on the package can also be checked. In any case, there should be a list
of points to be checked in a garment, including a table of finished
measurements.

Final Inspection –
Quality Specifications for Men’s Dress Shirts.
Location Inspect for
1. Collar Both points same length (+1/8 in.). Stripes, plaids, checks, or pattern
should match on both points. Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped
or broken stitches, or raw edges. Should lay flat.
2. Buttons and Properly spaced, no puckering or fullness. Buttonholes properly sewed,
Buttonholes no cut stitches. No broke buttons. Located so stripes, plaids, or patterns
match (+1/8 in.).
3. Pocket Top of the pocket horizontal. Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped
or broken stitches, or raw edges. Corners securely tacked. Stripes,
plaids, checks or patterns should match (+1/8 in.). Should lay flat
4. Hems Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stitches, or raw
edges. Stitching 1/16 in. from edge.
5. Yoke and Shoulder Pleats (if any) properly placed. Uniformly stitched, no puckering,
skipped or broken stitches, or raw edges. Should lay flat.
6. Side Seams Stripes, plaids, checks, or patterns should match (+1/8 in.). Uniformly
stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stitches, or raw edges.
7. Cuff Stripes, Plaids, checks or patterns should match the sleeve (+1/8 in.).
Uniformly stitched, no puckering, skipped or broken stitches, or raw
edges.
8. Finished appearance Clean of all loose thread. No oil/dirt stains. Free of any fabric defect.
No shade difference within a shirt from part to part (panel to panel).

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

23
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
24 Apparel Quality Standard

Measurements for men’s L/S dress shirts

Some possible defects in garments with diagrams

Left side is off grain to the seam

Poor Stitching : Loops pulled to one side

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

24
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
25 Apparel Quality Standard

Poor Collar: Collar is not smooth and there are tucks

where the collar and lapels join together.

Zipper is unattractive because facing does not cover it

completely

Plaids do not match at the seam

Armhole seam is unattractive because gathers caught in

seam

Hem is unattractive because gathers and stitching show

on the outside

Unattractive seam because of puckering

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

25
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
26 Apparel Quality Standard

Material is caught in armhole seam

Opening is uneven at the bottom

Top button hole is too large for the button

Pocket Opening is too loose

Pocket opening is too loose

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

26
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
27 Apparel Quality Standard

Not readily apparent defects

Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or
batch, the units of the sample being selected at random without regard to their quality.
The number of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.
Lot or Batch: The term lot or batch shall mean “inspection lot” or „inspection
batch”, that is, a collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn
and inspected to determine conformance with the acceptability criteria, and may differ
from a collection of units designated as lot or batch for other purposes (e.g.
production, shipment, etc.).
Lot or Batch Size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot
or batch.
Percent Defective:
Percent Defective = number of defective units X 100
Number of units inspected
Process Average: The process average is the average per cent defective of a
product submitted by the supplier for original inspection. Original inspection is the
first inspection of a particular quantity of a product, as distinguished from the
inspection of a product that has been resubmitted after prior rejection.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

27
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
28 Apparel Quality Standard

Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)

AQL is one of the most frequently used terms when it comes to quality in the apparel
export industry. "The AQL is the maximum per cent defective that for the purpose of
sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average."
Acceptable Quality Level

Quality / workmanship standards in general

A. Open seams – No open or raw seams allowed except on hems where up to 5/8”
allowed.
B. Skipped Stitches – No skips allowed on chain stitch or raveling stitch unless skip will
be covered by a subsequent operation. Two or fewer skips allowed on lock stitch
provided skips are non-consecutive. More than two skips are allowed on lock stitch
provided seam will be covered by a subsequent operation. Skips on decorative top-
stitching allowed on non- reveling seams if not obvious on face of garment.
C. Cracked stitches – All seams must withstand stress reasonably expected in wearing
without breaking stitches.
D. Stitches / Inch – All operations must meet SPI (Stitched per inch) requirement
designated in the product specification and/or standard speed and stitch chart.
E. Uneven seams – Leg, sleeve cuff, or other seams designed to meet evenly must be no
more than ¼‟ from meeting evenly. Intermediate operations may have larger
tolerances provided measurement, appearance, or subsequent operations are not
affected by failing to meet evenly + tolerance.
F. Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams – Finished garment appearance or
serviceability must not be adversely affected.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

28
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
29 Apparel Quality Standard

G. Needle and Feed cuts – No feed cuts allowed unless cut will be cut off or completely
covered by a subsequent operation. One needle cut allowed provided no hole or run
develops when subject to normal wearing stress. Two or more allowed if meets run or
hole criteria and only needle cut appears in finished seam. (Exception: Holes
confirmed by gripper or embroidery).
H. Unclipped Threads and Long ends – On intermediate operations (i.e. those operations
which will be seamed over or covered by a subsequent operation) threads will be
specified on In-process quality specifications for that operations
 Automatic operations such as buttonhole or bar tack, 3/8‟‟ allowed
unless thread contrasts with garment and creates poor appearance.
 Finished seams 3/8” allowable if texturized polyester thread is used.
 Otherwise none allowed outside if contrasting and visible to the
consumer. Allowed on outside if matching thread is used and tail is less
than ¼”
 Exception: Foot or hand area of footed or handi- cuff garments may not
have a thread tail exposed on finished seams in excess of 3/8”. Strictly
Enforced.
I. Raw Edge, Untrimmed – No raw edge allowed on outside finished seams. No raw
edge inside wider than ¼”.
J. Turn Ends – Defect on finished seam if appearance or secureness is affected.
K. Labels – Defect if crocked, missing, incorrect, insecurely attached, or seriously
puckered. Stitching not to cover logo in any manner.
L. Snaps, Fasteners – Missing, lose or misaligned. Stud must match socket within
¼”. Greater tolerance allowed only if appearance is not seriously affected.
M. Broken Needle – Any broken needle left in the garment.
N. Hems – Defective if excessively curled puckered, pleated, or excessive bite.
O. Smocking – Ends not caught securely such that subsequent operations will fail to
secure. Incorrect design. One skip on securing stitch or obvious skips on decorative
thread affecting appearance.
P. Trim – Missing or obviously pieced, shaded or defective so as to affect appearance
of finished garment.

Glossary of finishing department defects

Defect Description
Trimming defects
Thread not Trimmed or Threads Self-explanatory.
not Trimmed to Specified Length

Cuts or Nicks Caused by indifferent handling of scissors. snips or

mechanical trimmers
Seam Tears Frequently caused by the turning equipment used to reverse
garments in finishing
Soil Caused by oil, grease or dirt. Often times originating from a
dirty work area or machinery not properly cleaned.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

29
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
30 Apparel Quality Standard

Streaks Marking caused by some types of turn boards or defectively

finished trimmings

Pressing Defects
Pressing Omitted. Burned or Self-explanatory.
Scorched Garments
Inadequate Pressing Excessive heat or pressure resulting in poor pleating,
fullness or twisting of a seam or garment surface
Garments not Thoroughly Dried: Resulting in excessive wrinkling of garment.

Improper Pressing Over Zippers Often produces a tear or unsightly impression on the face of
or Other Closures the garment
Pockets or Linings not Pressed Causing wrinkles or ridges to appear on the surface of the
Correctly garment
Pressing Producing a Shine in Usually caused by excessive heat or incorrect type of
Fabric pressing surface
Folding Defects
Garment not Folded to Self-explanatory.
specifications
Garment not Folded with Proper Cardboard, tissue or other specified packaging
materials materials omitted

Pins or Folds in Garment Incorrect Pins in wrong location or folds not correctly aligned for
package
Garments not Buttoned. Fly’s not Self-explanatory.
Closed. Incorrect number of Pins:

Label not Showing Garment not positioned in package to show label on top
surface
Product Zones
Explanation of Zones
When a construction flaw or defect occurs in a product, acceptance or rejection of the
defective product is prioritized by the area, or zone, in which it occurs. Product zones that are
more visible to the customers are more crucial in maintaining higher levels of quality.
Each product has specific zones that are more important than others, and guidelines are
defined accordingly.
Zone A (1)
Areas with extremely high visibility that is likely to be viewed from a close distance at the
time of purchase or receipt. Cosmetic flaws located in these zones would be considered major
and would be cause for the rejection of the product.
Zone B (2)
Areas that are not visibly dominant, but are visible in normal use. Cosmetic flaws would be
evaluated based upon the size of the defect, color, and intended end use of the product to
determine acceptability.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

30
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU
31 Apparel Quality Standard

Zone C (3)
Areas normally hidden in everyday use, but could be visible on occasion. Cosmetic flaws in
this zone are more acceptable than in any other location on the garment. Flaws occurring in
this zone would be evaluated product by product based upon the intended use of the garment.

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN

31
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU