SEGMENTED BOWLS MADE SIMPLE p. 60 | MULTI-ANGLE SHOOTING BOARD p.

36

ISSUE 296 JULY 2024

10
STEPS TO
BUILD BETTER
BREADBOARDS
p. 50

SIMPLY
STUNNING
BUILD THIS SURPRISINGLY EASY LAMP
FROM VENEER AND SCRAPWOOD
p. 54

Tool Test
BENCHTOP
ROUTER
TABLES
p.30

GREAT PLANS
Classic Cherry Sideboard p. 22

Built-to-Last Picnic Table p. 38

The World’s
Modular Tool Stand p. 44

MOST TRUSTED Sock-Leg Side Table p. 64

Woodworking Resource
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TAKING MEASURE

what to how to why

ONCE YOU UNDERSTAND WHY, YOU’RE THE
Issue No. 296 July 2024
Vol. 41, No. 3
®

MASTER OF HOW AND WHAT. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF LUCAS PETERS

It takes only a microsecond for a social-media algorithm to pop a 30-second MANAGING EDITOR DAVE STONE
jump-cut-laden video into your feed showing you how easy it is to get a CREATIVE DIRECTOR JESSICA ENO
traditional breadboard-capped, harvest-table look by slathering glue along end SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYLE
grain and slapping on a perpendicular strip of wood. But in the span of about DESIGN EDITOR JOHN OLSON
a year, that table will work ponderously through its expansion/contraction ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT CHRISSY TASSIN
cycle, and changes in seasonal humidity will catastrophically split the tabletop.
In that microsecond when you discover the wood failure, the instant digital CONTRIBUTING CRAFTSMEN JIM HEAVEY, BRIAN BERGSTROM

gratification transforms into expensive, hard-won experience. PHOTOGRAPHERS JASON DONNELLY, CARSON DOWNING,
JACOB FOX, BRIE GOLDMAN, KELSEY HANSEN
Let’s call it the What to How to Why cycle. You knew What you wanted.
You thought you were learning How to do it. Now you need to know Why this CONTRIBUTING EDITORS VINCENT ANCONA, ZACH BROWN,
KERRY GIBSON, RANDY MAXEY, CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
disaster happened so you can avoid it in the future.
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS LORNA JOHNSON,
True understanding requires all three. But the Why—the knowledge that ROXANNE LEMOINE, CHRISTOPHER MILLS
wood expands and contracts more quickly laterally than longitudinally and PROOFREADERS SAM CADY, JOE HURST-WAJSZCZUK,
therefore splits when constrained across the grain—that’s the important one. BABS KLEIN, MARK LANE
That’s the one you can apply to other projects, use to prevent other problems, or
even better, pass along as Hows that aren’t so costly to the next learner.
ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
Packing the Whys into the Whats and Hows isn’t the quickest way for us to
PUBLISHER
create content or for you to absorb that knowledge. The three elements can’t MARTY WOLSKE
always be contained by a 30-second social video. So, you won’t satisfy your
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE BRIAN KOSSACK
rapid-fire dopamine addiction by “scrolling” through our magazine pages [email protected]
packed with disassembled illustrations and project steps that you have to ONLINE MEDIA KIT woodmagazine.com/mediakit
BUSINESS MANAGER DARREN TOLLEFSON
complete yourself. And after putting weeks into finishing a project, the only CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER ED LICHINSKY
“like” you receive might be from the person you gift it to. SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER COURTNEY PETERSON
PREPRESS DESKTOP SPECIALIST SOPHIA MOZENA
All this explains why, whether it’s in a How article like “Breadboard Ends
COLOR QUALITY ANALYST JOHN SANTUCCI
Done Right” on page 50, or a What video like the cutting board project build
you can view using the link below, it is our constant goal to hand you the deep- PRESIDENT, LIFESTYLE
knowledge Whys about things like grain orientation that transcend the current ALYSIA BORSA
technique or project; and to just maybe make that knowledge a bit less hard- SVP & GROUP GM, TECH & SUSTAINABILITY
won and expensive for you. After that, you can invert the What to How to Why TIM FISHER
cycle. Because once you understand the Why, you know How to get out to the
shop and build some Whats.
So get out to the shop and build some. We’ll help.

For subscription help: Log in to woodmagazine.com/myaccount;

LUCAS PETERS e-mail [email protected]; or call 800-374-9663, option 1.
[email protected] To contact the editors: E-mail [email protected];
@peters.lucas write to WOOD Magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-237, Des Moines, IA 50309;
or call 800-374-9663, option 2.
To order past articles and issues: For articles, search
woodstore.net. For issues, visit woodmagazine.com/backissues.
For syndication or international licensing requests, email
[email protected].
The offset in the end
For reprint and reuse permission, email
of Design Editor John [email protected].
Olson’s workbench
represents the size
the crack would have Our subscriber list is occasionally made available to carefully selected
been last winter had firms whose products may be of interest to you. If you prefer not to
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Watch a video on © Copyright Meredith Operations Corporation 2024.
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weave end-grain Meredith Operations Corporation allows
cutting board. the purchaser of this magazine to
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for personal use. Any other reproduction
basketweave of these patterns is strictly prohibited.

To download patterns from this issue, visit

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2 WOOD magazine | July 2024
 Thousands of
woodworkers from
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joinery fast, accurate multiple specialized jigs
• Mortise & Tenon, Dovetails,
and repeatable. • Safe and easy to use Box Joints, and more!

“
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CONTENTS

Issue No. 296 July 2024

PLANS
22 STYLISH SIDEBOARD
Build this handsome cherry
cupboard to store and display
your plates and cutlery.
22
36 MULTI-ANGLE SHOOTER
Combine your tablesaw miter
gauge with some scrapwood
for a versatile shooting board.

38 ELEGANT PICNIC TABLE

This modern picnic table
becomes its own centerpiece
at your next backyard party.

44 MODULAR TOOL STANDS

Stack these stands as storage,
pair them up as a workbench,
or top one with a tool.

54 LUMINESCENT LUMBER
This weekend project lights up
the room thanks to veneered
acrylic and an LED bulb.

64 SOCKS ON LEGS
From its floating top to its
dressed-up feet, this accent
table will knock your socks off.

ON THE COVER
SEGMENTED BOWLS MADE SIMPLE p. 60 | MULTI-ANGLE SHOOTING BOARD p. 36

ISSUE 296 JULY 2024

10
STEPS TO
BUILD BETTER
BREADBOARDS
p. 50

SIMPLY
STUNNING
BUILD THIS SURPRISINGLY EASY LAMP
TOOLS & TECHNIQUES
FROM VENEER AND SCRAPWOOD

30 COMPACT ROUTER TABLES

57 VENEER SOFTENING
p. 54

We test 11 benchtop router Tame wrinkles and warps in

tables to see which ones figured veneer for beautifully
GREAT PLANS
Classic Cherry Sideboard p. 22
deliver big-time results. paneled projects.
Built-to-Last Picnic Table p. 38

The World’s
Modular Tool Stand p. 44

47 SIMPLE 60
Sock-Leg Side Table
MOST TRUSTED
Woodworking Resource
p. 64

DRAWER SLIDES SEGMENTED BOWL SLED

The striking appearance of Follow these simple steps Add a beautiful angle to your
this desk lamp belies its for perfectly installed drawer bowl-turning skillset with our
easy-to-build nature. Pick slides in any project. precision segmenting sled.
your favorite veneer figure
and we’ll walk you through
applying it to acrylic to cast
a warm wood-tinted glow.
50 BREADBOARD ENDS
Cap end grain in style, but
do it right: without causing
70 TOOLS & MATERIALS
We get hands-on with new
barrel-gripped offerings
catastrophic cracks and splits. promising greater control.

4 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 DEPARTMENTS
38 2 TAKING MEASURE
Learn the “Why” to master the
12 YOUR SHOP
What in the world is a Woodio?
“How” and “What.”
16 ASK WOOD
8 YOUR VOICE Do you even router lift, bro?
Our readers light up their lamp
modifications. 18 SHOP TIPS
Better grip for biscuits, and more
10 YOUR PROJECTS
Flower-vending wagon, wooden 75 WHAT’S AHEAD
soccer ball, and more A sneak peek at your next WOOD

64

50 30

CONNECT WITH

/woodmagazine @woodmagazine @wood @woodmagazine

E-MAIL [email protected]
WRITE WOOD magazine,
1716 Locust St., LS-237
Des Moines, IA 50309
CALL 800-374-9663, option 2

WOOD® magazine never uses outside parties to solicit subscription renewals. The safest,
easiest way to renew your subscription is with a credit card online at woodmagazine.com/
myaccount. If you have questions about a renewal offer you’ve received, please call our
customer service line at 800-374-9663, and select option 1. We’re happy to help.

woodmagazine.com 5
WOOD-WIDE WEB
CLAMPING PANELS
If you love something, let it go.

I love clamp
What is love? Is it an ineffable
But if you really love something,
glue it up and clamp it tight.
That’s what we do in this panel
glue-up video walk-through:
woodmagazine.com/clampingpanels
combination of brain chemistry,
emotional connection, shared experience,
and willful commitment to sacrificial
kindness that draws us together?
No. It’s clamps.

CLAMP CAPACITY
Can any love be greater than
your love for clamps? No.
Extend the capacity of
your clamps with these tips:
woodmagazine.com/clampcapacity

CLAMP-UP TRICKS
Do your assemblies not always go
together like a horse and carriage?
6 These tricks are the clamp-up matchmakers
woodmagazine.com/clampuptricks
YOUR VOICE

all lamped up
I built the lamp from issue 148 (May 2003) with some
modifications, but your plans were essential. I made the
post from four pieces of quartersawn cherry joined
with lock miters to display the grain on all sides and
to create a 1∕8" reveal running along each edge. I
reinforced the base with splines at each corner
and modified the geometry of the mica shade.
Roger Wallace
Okemos, Michigan

Here is my version of the

lamp featured in issue
148. I made it from cherry
and incorporated rock
scavenged from the yard.
I had trouble building the
shade so I designed the
horns you see on top.
William Heil
Rio Rancho, New Mexico

I also made a floor-standing variation of the

desk lamp from issue 148. I wanted my floor
lamp to show off handmade paper in a six-sided
shade, so I called on a geometry-inclined friend
to help me alter the jigs for handling the frame.
It worked like a charm. I now have five of these
lamps in the house.
David Fouts
Gualala, California

AM I OFF MY ROCKER?
I have been making children’s rocking
chairs from the article in issue 236
(November 2015). I have donated chairs
to fundraisers and have given others to
family members and friends.
Then I saw the new children’s rocker
in issue 283 (September 2022). I really
liked the curves in the early design and
the slats in the seat and back of the new
design. So I decided to combine the
two designs into one.

Jeff H.
Dodgeville, Wisconsin

8 WOOD magazine | July 2024

TOOLS OR TALENT?
For the past four years, I’ve been teaching wood shop at our
local high school. We teach everything from woodturning to
furniture building to luthiery. We have a well-equipped shop
in which to work. It is so well equipped that I feel I can
eliminate the quality of the tools from the equation as a
factor in my students’ outcomes.
Instead, I’ve identified four
abilities that, when mastered, Very well said, Jim.
make much better predictors of Thanks for teaching kids
woodworking success: and for keeping your
high-school
1. The ability to measure
woodworking program
and mill accurately.
going. Whether the kids
2. The ability to plan a realize it or not, you’re
project’s progression. helping them learn A CUT ABOVE
3. The ability to attend to about attention to I made my first edge-grain cutting board
details from materials selection detail, performance following the instructions for the “Basket-Weave
through assembly and finishing. management, as well as Cutting Board” in issue 284 (October 2022). It
adapting and was a challenge, but my wife is very happy with
4. The ability, as well as the overcoming obstacles. her new cutting board. Thanks for having such
motivation, to recognize and All are skills that will inspirational articles that push us woodworkers
correct the inevitable mistakes. serve them well beyond to new challenges.
the workshop.
Jim Anderson Charles Steinmetz
via email Lucas Peters Corvallis, Oregon
Editor-in-Chief
woodmagazine.com 9

“My shop is 10 times cleaner now

than it used to be. The Supercell
works really well.”
- Ed N.
SUPERCELL®

To learn more
about Ed’s shop

Touchless Filter Cleaning and Remote Included

Made in the USA 800-732-4065 t oneida-air.com
YOUR PROJECTS

After his daughter bought a 1967

Ford Econoline to promote her
flower arrangements at events,
MARK BEACHY of Sugarcreek,
Ohio, built out the cap on the
back as a display area. White oak
construction and several coats
of spar varnish make the rack
beautiful and durable.

Kristin Sees, of Irene,

South Dakota, had a big
surprise for her 25th
wedding anniversary. Her
husband, MIKE SEES, made
this table while she was
on vacation with friends.
Upon her return, she was
surprised and elated to see
this black walnut lava table
in their dining room.

JOSEPH DERSCH
of Saint Charles,
Missouri, made this
soccer ball from oak and
walnut for his father, a former
soccer coach. Joseph challenged
himself to do the required
calculations and fine tuning to
make the geometry work.

SEND US A PHOTO OF YOUR WORK

Want to see your work showcased in WOOD® magazine?
Send a high-resolution digital photo of your completed project
to [email protected].

10 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 Though it took many years
to build due to illness, JIM
VANEK of Chicago, Illinois,
finally finished this Blacker
House bench. He referenced
the version in issue 235 (October
2015) incorporating the back-slat
Build your own design and the Blacker House indents
Blacker House bench in the legs, then modified the bench
with built-in storage for use outdoors on his covered front
woodstore.net/ porch. He used white oak with ebony
blackerhousebench accents. Jim omitted a finish in favor
of allowing the raw white oak (which
is well suited for use outdoors) to
develop a natural patina as it weathers.

MARK CORSO of Plant City, Florida, made this tool chest

from walnut, curly maple, and butternut. Red cedar makes
up the drawers and dividers.
Mark constructed the case with hand-cut dovetails,
machine-cut sliding dovetails, and mortise-and-tenon joints.
He hand-carved the eagle into the front and painted it with
artist oils. He also incorporated a secret compartment and a
box inside with a carved eagle talon. Mark finished the tool
chest with an oil and urethane blend. He is proud that his
project won Best of Show at the Florida State Fair in 2023,
judged by furniture maker Frank Strazza.

woodmagazine.com 11
YOUR SHOP

Studio?
Wood shop?
Yes!
Don’t mistake this backyard shed as
a high-end home for garden tools.
Instead, you’ll find an efficient, well-lit,
and comfortable workshop inside.
WRITER: RANDY MAXEY
The handsome shed belies the
woodworking haven inside. Its design
is a focal point of the landscape,
which pleases Ed’s wife immensely.

d Brady wanted to move his shop In his small shop, Ed relies heavily on
E out of the basement, so he proposed
the idea of a backyard-shed shop to
the space-saving Shopsmith he pur-
chased in 1983. He’s used it ever since
his wife, Kathy. She agreed, on two and doesn’t miss having a full-size,
conditions: it had to be cute and it had dedicated tablesaw. He recently
to include an antique window salvaged upgraded the headstock and shortened it
from a neighbor’s 1930s-vintage house. by 11" to better fit his shop. The
Yard space for Ed’s shed only allowed Shopsmith powers the bandsaw, drill
for a maximum of 12×12', but Ed didn’t press, disc sander, jointer, and tablesaw
After serving 27 years in the build just a square. He designed a attachments.

ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

Navy as an electrical engineer, 5-sided building that tucks into a corner A wall-mounted Router Boss 3D router
Ed eventually retired and spends of the back yard. It features straight provides precision, three-axis routing
many hours in his “Woodio.” He
particularly enjoys honing his
12'-long walls along the back, but in capability. Ed uses his tracksaw station
fine woodworking skills. front has three shorter walls, with the often for easier and safer cuts, particu-
angled one showcasing that salvaged larly in sheet goods. Its table does
antique window. double-duty for project assembly. A

PHOTOGRAPHER: EDWARD BRADY

Ed built the shed himself, only calling benchtop router table tucks underneath
in help when lifting the main roof truss and sets up easily when needed.
and drywall panels. A neighbor did the His dad’s 1935-vintage, hand-made
roofing. During construction, another workbench resides under the small
neighbor commented, “Oh, you’re window. Ed says the workbench, cabinet
building a studio.” When Ed corrected tops, and tracksaw table provide plenty
him that it was just a wood shop, his of horizontal surfaces for layout,
wife suggested they combine the two drawing, and organizing tools.
and call the space his “Woodio.” The To fit everything in, Ed uses every
name stuck and she had the sign made remaining square inch of space for
for the entrance. storage. He has a surprising number of

SHOW US YOUR SHOP!

Send high-resolution digital photos of your shop to
12 [email protected] and we may showcase it in the magazine!
 Shelf
Dry erase board

Workbench Computer

Router
Ed has made an art out of maximizing space for storage.
Large cabinets keep smaller tools, accessories, and supplies
12' out of the way yet readily accessible.
Cabinet

hand and power tools tucked away for

Dust making furniture, boxes, display
Shopsmith Tracksaw table collection
cabinets, and other projects.
WiFi access keeps Ed connected in his
woodio for watching how-to videos and
Storage
cabinets doing research. For power, he installed
Shelving and Clamp 220V, 30A service underground. With
Mitersaw lumber storage storage
fully insulated walls, 220V baseboard
heaters warm the space nicely. A
bathroom exhaust fan in the ceiling
exhausts fumes when applying finishes.
12'
woodmagazine.com 13
YOUR SHOP

Most of the equipment is mobile

which offers flexibility during the
build process. But Ed’s small shop I LOVE MY WOODIO. I LOVE THE
admittedly presents some challenges.
“What makes it interesting is the extra
ORGANIZATION OF IT AND ALL THE
mental effort to consider each step in NATURAL LIGHT THAT POURS IN. IT’S A
the process of building,” he says.
Thinking ahead is most important to
PLACE WHERE I LIKE TO BE—MOVING
ensure he’ll have access to the correct SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY—WHILE ENJOYING
tool or machine when needed. For
example, after setting up the
ALL THE ELEMENTS OF THE WORK.
Shopsmith for sawing, it’s important to
finish all the cuts before changing the
tool setup for use as a drill press.
Another lesson Ed learned is that it is
imperative to keep things clean and to
put away tools when finished. “This
may sound arduous, but for me it is
another part of my hobby.”
Ed says, “I love my Woodio. I love the
organization of it and all the natural
light that pours in. It’s a place where I
like to be—moving slowly and care-
fully—while enjoying all the elements
of the work.”

Ed had a few
choice words to say
about the difficulty
in constructing
the ceiling in his
shop. The LED
fixtures augment The mitersaw station and Shopsmith, with all its accessories, get
the natural light plenty of use in Ed’s shop. He has learned to adapt to their strengths
coming in through and limitations to produce quality work.
the large windows.

A vintage window forms the centerpiece of the shop from the inside Tucked under a window, the workbench made by Ed’s dad provides a
and out. The tracksaw table and compact dust collector reside just comfortable work area. The Router Boss sees a lot of use but takes up
inside the door. only a little space.

14 WOOD magazine | July 2024

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ASK WOOD

ROUTER LIFT VS. THROUGH-BASE ADJUSTMENT

Q: I’m considering upgrading my router table by adding a router lift, but the price of
even a basic lift is a stretch for my budget. I’ve been looking instead at routers that
have a built-in height adjustment mechanism that you can access through the top of
the router table. Is this a viable alternative to a router lift?
Brent Claxton
Santa Fe, New Mexico

Adding a router lift to your router Speaking of bit changes, if the leadscrew
table is a huge upgrade not only in of your through-the-base adjuster is
convenience, but in accuracy and safety as finely-threaded, raising the router from its
well, Brent. Most lifts feature a precision lowest point to its highest will require an
screw mechanism that raises and lowers arm-numbing number of turns. In contrast,
the router on a pair of columns. Combined many router lifts have a quick-adjust
with a dial scale, this mechanism allows mechanism in addition to the fine-
you to make precise adjustments to the bit adjustment screw.
height in fine increments. You can also lock Where through-the-base adjusters really
the height of the router as well as make bit shine is in terms of price. Because the
changes, all from above the table. Because adjuster is built in to the router, you don’t
you no longer have a reason to be fumbling have to make any further investment. In
under the table to make adjustments, you contrast, even the lowest-price router lifts
don’t have to worry about accidentally are over $200 and they can quickly climb to
hitting the power switch and starting the $500. And this doesn’t include the router.
router inadvertently. Ultimately, the decision comes down
As an alternative to a router lift, many to how often and for what purposes you
manufacturers offer plunge routers that use your router table. For simple edge
feature through-the-base height profiles and basic operations, a through-
adjustment. With this setup, you simply the-base system will probably do
drill an access hole in the top of your router everything you need it to. But if you
table for a crank that raises and lowers your routinely use your router for joinery and
router via a leadscrew. This offers many of precision work, it’s worth saving up for a
the advantages of a router lift, but there are dedicated router lift.
some trade-offs. The first of these has to do
with precision.
Through-the-base adjusters are often
coarser and may have more backlash in the
mechanism than router lifts. And typically
the scale to indicate the bit height is not
visible above the table. When you do get the
bit adjusted to where you want it, you’ll still
have to reach under the table to lock the
height. And this may cause the bit to move
up or down slightly, making precise
adjustments more difficult.
Depending on your router, bit changes
can be difficult with a through-the-base
router table. Some routers can’t raise the
collet high enough to make bit changes
above the table, so you’re forced to wrestle
with wrenches from below or lift the entire
router and insert out of the table to change
bits. (A pair of offset wrenches can solve
this problem.)

Have a question? Drop us an e-mail.

[email protected]

16 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 See the Forest
Through the Trees
Mighty Conifer Knife at an Impossible Price!

$
What Stauer Clients Are
Saying About Our Knives
ÌÌÌÌÌ
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Knife Specifications:
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Stauer, 14101 Southcross Drive W., Ste 155, Dept. MCK174-01, Burnsville, MN 55337 www.stauer.com
SHOP TIPS

TOP
SHOP
TIP
et a rip!
To accurately place slots for biscuit joinery in the edge of a workpiece, I like to
apply plenty of downward pressure on the joiner fence. Unfortunately, the
stock handle on the biscuit joiner isn’t ideally located for this.
That’s why I fashioned a removable auxiliary handle that fits on top of the
fence, allowing me to apply more downward and forward pressure precisely
where the cutter enters the workpiece when cutting slots.
My biscuit joiner has an opening in the fence, so I shaped a key at the
bottom of the handle to fit snugly in it. Screws secure the key to a shaped
handle and base that overlaps the opening. TIPS EARN
Emanuel Ringel UP TO $150.
Ambler, Pennsylvania
If your tip is the best submission
of the issue, it wins Top Shop Tip
honors, and you receive a

For his tip, Emanuel

PRIZE PACKAGE WORTH ILLUSTRATOR: CHRISTOPHER MILLS
wins a Revolution Miter
Gauge from SawStop
AT LEAST $300.
worth $449.
Send your tip, photos or drawings,
and contact info to
[email protected]

Because we try to publish original

tips, please send yours only to
®
WOOD magazine.

18 WOOD magazine | July 2024

DIGITAL
MAGNIFICATION
Wanting a better way to
see fine details in
magazine project plans, I
fashioned a stand for my
tablet from an old picture
frame, wood scraps for the
legs, and hinges. The
hinges allow the legs to
fold up for easier storage.
Placing the tablet on the
stand above the magazine
with the camera app open,
I can zoom in as much as I
need to see all the details.
Laura Taylor
Goddard, Kansas

AN UNTANGLED WEB
In my never-ending quest for more storage space, I realized my ceiling was an
untapped resource. Using 2"-wide nylon webbing fastened across the ceiling
joists, I created an abundance of storage for cutoffs and other items. Screws with
washers fasten the webbing to the joists, with hammock-like slack that creates
more space. In my open-ceiling garage, I can still store other items on top of the
joists, as well.
Bob Doublebower
Hilliard, Ohio

MAGNETIC
ATTRACTION
Holding a washer and nut
in place on hard-to-reach
bolts can be challenging.
They often fall off as you
try to start them. My
solution is to snap a
magnet to the head of the
bolt. This helps hold the
washers and nut in place
as you get them started.
John Younger
Ashburn, Virginia

woodmagazine.com 19
 I USE A WAGNER
SHOP TIPS
MOISTURE METER BECAUSE:

These are
family
heirlooms

80% of all problems in wood

projects are caused by moisture
content issues. A quick and
simple, non-damaging moisture
meter reading can save you
from angry customer calls,
unnecessary repair time, and a
bad reputation. Call today
and learn why Wagner’s THOSE FLIPPIN’ STOPS!
I outfitted my shop-made mitersaw fence with T-track and an adjustable stop,
industry-leading Orion Meters but wanted a way to add a flip stop to lock in shorter settings as I cut box sides.
may just be the most important Reaching into my hardware bin, I found a large door hinge and spare T-knobs to
tool for your shop. mount it to the track. It locks in tight for short cuts, then flips out of the way for
longer cuts without setup changes.
Joe Eide
Eau Claire, Wisconsin

(800) 795-9916 | WagnerMeters.com 20 WOOD magazine | July 2024

SURFACE TENSION
I often need more worksurface
in my small shop. Because my
workbench is only 23" wide, I
installed a folding extension to add
surface area.
Using folding shelf brackets rated for
500 pounds and available online, I built a
12"-wide folding workbench extension
using two layers of 3/4" plywood laminated
together then added hardwood edging. I
also drilled dog holes spaced and aligned
to work with those on my main benchtop.
Lifting the extension locks it in place.
When it’s not needed, I release the catches
on the brackets to fold it down.
Curtis Clark
Elk Grove, California

woodmagazine.com 21

®
OVERALL DIMENSIONS
641/2"W × 193/4"D × 371/2"H

22 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 CLASSIC
Cherry
Sideboard A plywood carcase provides a
quick-to-build foundation for the dovetailed
drawers and mortise-and-tenon doors.
WRITER: CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
DESIGNER: KEVIN BOYLE
BUILDER: BRIAN BERGSTROM

his project provides opportunities to practice many of your

T joinery skills, or to learn a new one. But don’t worry: we
walk you through them all. The plywood carcase goes together
with simple dado and rabbet joinery. Tongues and grooves make
the frames for the side panels. Routed dovetails create durable
drawers, and mortise-and-tenon joints keep the doors sag-free.
This piece was designed to look great on its own, or as a
companion to the “Classic Corner Cabinet” in issue 287
(March 2023), see page 29.

EXPLODED VIEW

Show off the best grain you

19½" 64½" find in the solid-wood top.
EE
Row of 3/16" shank holes
¼" round-overs #8 x 1¼"
panhead screw
Row of 1/8" shank holes F
ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

CC

G E
G
J
PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON DONNELLY

H
V

S R
Display prized N
objects behind
S R glass-panel doors.
CC
16¾"
U T
DD
¾" ¾" stock joined at 90°
provides the look of
beefy legs without the
U T Dovetailed drawers expense of thick stock.
provide a classic look
and enduring strength.
woodmagazine.com 23
 Backer

A A

Stopblock
against end
A
of stile
10"

Fence
extension
A B
A plywood scrap serves as a simple tapering jig. Align the taper layout A fence extension provides a bearing surface for both stiles as you
marks on the side stile (A) with the jig’s edge. Butt the toggle-clamp start cutting the dado. Clamp a backer to the assembly to prevent
mounting blocks against the stile and screw the blocks down. chip-out as the blade exits the cut.

¼"
CHOOSE SIDES TO START 3/8"
¾" rabbet
3/8" deep
The first step is making two frame-and-panel B
side assemblies. Then you’ll join them with a 1½"
plywood carcase and strengthen that with a ¾" rabbet
3/8" deep Note: ¾" rabbets
face frame that defines the openings for the 1a SIDE ASSEMBLY and dadoes cut
drawers and doors. TENON DETAILS in side frame
¼" grooves after assembly
Get step-by-step 3/8" deep
Cut the side stiles (A) and the top and
tips on cutting stub
tenons and grooves.
woodmagazine.com/
1 bottom rails (B, C) to size [Materials
List]. Mark the inside edge of each and cut A ¾" dado
3/8" 3/8" deep
stubtenon a centered groove to fit your 1∕4" plywood C
on this edge [Drawing 1]. Form stub tenons
on the ends of the rails to fit the grooves 4" 33/8"
[Drawing 1a].

1 SIDE ASSEMBLY 14¾" ¼"

¾" rabbet
(Right side 3/8" deep 7¼"
B D
shown)
Mill material for the
14¾"
¼" groove
3/8" deep,
centered
2 side fillers (D) to fit
the grooves and cut them
5"

5" long. Glue one into the

¼" rabbet groove in each side stile,
3/8" deep
on back flush with the bottom end
stile only 27" Note: ¾" rabbets 1"
[Drawing 1a].
and dadoes cut
Make a tapering sled as

E
A
in side frame
after assembly 3 shown in Photo A and taper the
bottom inside edge of each side stile (A).
¼" hole Save the sled for use again later.
A 3/8" deep Dry-fit the rails and stiles and cut the
36¾" 7/8"
7/8" 4 side panels (E) to fit in the grooves.
Glue up the side assemblies, gluing the
panels into the grooves, and check the
1½"
assemblies for square.
1½" ¾" dado Set up a dado stack to match the TIP!
3/8" deep
5 thickness of your 3∕4" plywood. Cut the
dado and rabbet across each side assembly
Make note of
7" the chippers and
[Drawing 1, Photo B]. shims used here
C
Mark one assembly as the right, the as you'll need

D
6 other as the left. Rout a stopped rabbet
on the back stile of each assembly between
them again later.

the dado and the rabbet [Drawing 1].

24 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 F

MAKE YOUR CASE G

From 3∕4" plywood, cut the case top
1 and bottom (F) and dividers (G) to size
[Drawings 2 and 2a].
Dado the top and bottom to accept
2 the dividers. Shim the dado stack to
cut a full 3∕4" and cut the dadoes in the G

dividers.
Dry-fit the dividers between the
TIP!
This is also a good
3 top and bottom and measure the
opening [Photo C]. Cut the dust panel
F

time to check fronts and backs (H) to fit, then cut the
the fit of the side dust panel sides (I) to size [Drawing 3,
assemblies to the
Materials List]. C
carcase assembly.
Cut a centered groove in the dust
4 panel fronts, backs, and sides (H, I)
[Drawing 3]. Then mill stub tenons on
Make sure the assembly is square, then carefully measure between
the dadoes to determine the finished length of the dust panel fronts
and backs (H).
the sides (I) to fit the grooves. Dry-fit the
pieces, measure for the panels (J), and
cut them to size. Glue up the dust
panel assemblies.
After the glue dries, notch the 62¼"
5 front corners [Drawing 3] to
allow the dust panel frames to fit
17¾"
F

62¼" #16 x ¾"

around the face frame. L
brad
K

I
2 CARCASE & FACE FRAME B
J M 29½"
H
59" G G

O E
A
K K
1½" A
24" 177/8" F
N 27¼" 16"
177/8"
36¾" Q ¾" dadoes C
3/8" deep
Q
2" N

1¾" 2a CASE DIVIDER

5" P 17¾"
1¼" pocket
1" screws
¾" dado
3/8" deep

¼" hole 3/8" deep

(drilled after assembly) 53/8"
THE CORNER CABINET FROM ISSUE 287
DREW SO MUCH ATTENTION IN THE WOOD G
28¾"
GALLERY THAT WE KNEW WE NEEDED TO
¾" dadoes
DESIGN THIS COMPANION PIECE FOR IT. 7/8" 3/8" deep
71/8"
¾"
-KEVIN BOYLE, DESIGN EDITOR 1½"

73/8" 7½"

woodmagazine.com 25
 ¼" grooves 3/8" deep
3 DUST PANEL 25¾"
H

J
15¼"
22½"
I
15¼"
H

¼" tongue 3/8" long,

¾" centered
7/8"

Glue and clamp the dust panels between FABRICATE THE FACE FRAME
6 the dividers, aligning the rear of the
Cut the face-frame rails and stiles (N–Q)
notch flush with the front edge of the
dividers. Check for square. Allow the glue to 1 to size. Taper the bottom of the end
stiles (N) as you did with the side stiles (A)
dry, then glue this assembly between the case
top and bottom (F). Check for square again. [Drawing 2].
Lay out the curve on the bottom rail (P)
7 Cut the drawer guides (K) and top
drawer fillers (L) to size. Glue the 9∕16" 2 [Photo E]. Bandsaw and sand the curve
smooth.
face of each guide to the bottom of each
Drill pocket holes in the center stiles (Q) Note: Position
drawer opening [Drawing 2] and the fillers to
the top of the upper drawer opening.
Glue and clamp the side assemblies to the
3 and the rails (O, P). Glue and pocket-
screw the rails to the end stiles, dry-fitting
the center stiles
so the drawer

8 carcase, flush at the front. After the glue

dries, drill the shelf-pin holes [Photo D]. Take
the center stiles as spacers. Dry-fit the
N/O/P assembly to the carcase to determine
guides (K) stand
1∕16" proud of
the stile edges.
care not to drill through the dividers or stiles. the positions of the center stiles. Glue and
Measure the carcase for the case back pocket-screw the center stiles in place.
9 (M) and cut it to size. Test the fit, then
set it aside. 4 Finish-sand the completed face frame,
then glue it to the carcase.

G
A A

D E
Make a drilling guide from 1∕4" plywood, spacing the holes as shown in To create the curve for the face-frame bottom rail (P), flex a piece of
Drawing 1. Clamp it flush with the edges of the dividers (G) and side 1∕4" plywood or hardboard between the layout points, or squeeze a
stiles (A) before you drill the holes. piece of 1∕2" or 3∕4" MDF in a long bar clamp.

26 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 SLIDE INTO THE DRAWERS
Cut the drawer sides (R, T) and fronts (S,
1 U) to size [Drawing 4]. Note that the sides
are 1∕2" thick and the fronts are 3∕4" thick.
S
Using a jig, rout the 1∕2" half-blind dovetails
2 in the fronts and sides [Photo F].
Cut a dado in each of the drawer sides
3 (R, T) for the backs (V, W). Cut a groove
in the sides and fronts (R–U) for the drawer
bottom (X). Dry-fit the fronts and sides,
R measure for the backs and bottoms, and cut
Watch a video on
the backs and bottoms to size. Finish-sand
using a dovetail jig.
the inside faces of the drawer parts. woodmagazine.com/
Glue the drawers together. After the
4 glue dries, finish-sand the outside faces
and check the fit in the carcase. Label each
dovetailjig

with its position. Drill holes for the pulls, but

F
don’t install them yet.
The drawer widths accommodate 1∕2" half-blind routed dovetails. A
jig makes easy work of routing the mating halves of each joint in the
same operation.

½"
¼" groove ½" dado 4"
¼" deep ¼" deep 411/16" for part V
5/16" from 67/16" for part W
bottom edge
4 DRAWER
R T
233/8"
V W
5¼" for 5¼" for
part S 137/8" part R
7" for 7" for
X part T
part U 233/8"
R T
S U

5"
15/8" 18"
cherry knob
237/8"

SWING ON TO THE DOORS

Cut the door stiles and rails (Y, Z) to size
1 [Drawing 5]. Form mortises in the stiles
and cut tenons on the rails [Drawing 5a].
Glue the doors together. After the glue Z

Learn several ways

2 dries, rout a rabbet around the inside
face and square up the corners [Photo G].
Y

to cut mortise-and- Screw the no-mortise hinges to the

tenon joints.
woodmagazine.com/
3 doors [Drawing 5], then mount the
doors to the face-frame end stiles (N)
mt4ways
[Exploded View]. Check for an even reveal Y
and plane the door rails or stiles, if needed. Z
Remove the doors and hinges. Drill the holes
for the door pulls, but don’t install them yet.

1∕2" scrap
G
Elevate the door frames on 1∕2" scrap to provide clearance for the
rabbeting bit. After routing, square up the corners of the rabbets to
accept the glass panels and glass stops.

woodmagazine.com 27
 Cut the glass stops (AA, BB) to fit
4 in the doors and set them aside.
Finish-sand the doors.
5a DOOR MORTISE & TENON DETAILS

¼"
Cut the shelves (CC) and shelf edging 1¾" mortise
5 (DD) to size [Exploded View]. Glue
the edging to the shelves. Finish-sand the ¼" 1¼"
1¼" deep

¼"
assemblies after the glue dries.
Z
5 DOOR 1¾"
(Viewed from back)
15/8" 137/8"
cherry knob
3¼"
Z ¼" stopped rabbet
½" deep
25/8" (routed after assembly)
BB Y

271/8" Y
Y

AA
231/8"
AA
¼" rabbet
½" deep
3¼" #16 x ¾"
brad
Z
No-mortise
hinge ¼"
3/8"
1/8 x 117/8 x 231/8" BB
double-strength glass
113/8"

MATERIALS LIST
FINISHED SIZE FINISHED SIZE
PART T W L
Matl. Qty. PART T W L
Matl. Qty.

A SIDE STILES 3∕4" 2" 363∕4" C 4 U TALL DRAWER FRONTS 3∕4" 7" 237∕8" C 2
B SIDE TOP RAILS 3∕4" 11∕2" 143∕4" C 2 V SHORT DRAWER BACKS 1∕2" 411∕16" 233∕8" C 2
C SIDE BOTTOM RAILS 3∕4" 4" 143∕4" C 2 W TALL DRAWER BACKS 1∕2" 67∕16" 233∕8" C 2
D* FILLERS 1∕4" 3∕8" 21∕8" C 4 X DRAWER BOTTOMS 1∕4" 137∕8" 233∕8" CP 4
E SIDE PANELS 1∕4" 143∕4" 27" CP 2 Y DOOR STILES 3∕4" 21∕4" 271∕8" C 4
F CARCASE TOP/BOTTOM 3∕4" 173∕4" 621∕4" CP 2 Z DOOR RAILS 3∕4" 21∕4" 137∕8" C 4
G CARCASE DIVIDERS 3∕4" 173∕4" 283∕4" CP 2 AA VERTICAL GLASS STOPS 1∕4" 3∕8" 231∕8" C 4
H DUST PANEL FTS/BACKS 3∕4" 2" 253∕4" C 6 BB HORIZ. GLASS STOPS 1∕4" 3∕8" 113∕8" C 4
I DUST PANEL SIDES 3∕4" 2" 151∕4" C 6 CC SHELVES 3∕4" 163∕4" 173∕8" CP 4
J DUST PANELS 1∕4" 151∕4" 221∕2" CP 3 DD SHELF EDGING 3∕4" 3∕4" 173∕8" C 4
K DRAWER GUIDES 3∕4" 9∕16" 173∕4" C 8 EE CASE TOP 3∕4" 191∕2" 641∕2" EC 1
L TOP DRAWER FILLERS 3∕4" 3∕4" 173∕4" C 2 *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
M CARCASE BACK 1∕4" 291∕2" 621∕4" CP 1 MATERIALS KEY: C–cherry, CP–cherry plywood, EC–edge-glued
cherry.
N FACE-FRAME END STILES 3∕4" 2" 363∕4" C 2
SUPPLIES: #8×121 ∕4" panhead screws, 121 ∕4" pocket screws, #16×3∕4"
O FACE-FRAME TOP RAIL 3∕4" 11∕2" 59" C 1 brads, 1∕8×1127∕8×2321 ∕8" glass (2).
BLADE AND BITS: Dado blade, 1∕4" rabbeting, 1∕2" dovetail, 1∕4"
P FACE-FRAME BTM RAIL 3∕4" 3" 59" C 1
round-over bits.
Q FACE-FRAME CTR STILES 3∕4" 11∕2" 271∕4" C 2 SOURCES: No-mortise hinges (4) no. SHC-1100B-10B, $17; shelf
pins no. FUT-72111-52-004 (pack of 100), $6, cabinetparts.com;
R SHORT DRAWER SIDES 1∕2" 51∕4" 18" C 4 cherry knobs no. 15265 (10), $13/pair, rockler.com.
S SHORT DRAWER FRONTS 3∕4" 51∕4" 237∕8" C 2 PROJECT COST: It cost us about $650 to build this project. Your
cost will vary by region and source.
T TALL DRAWER SIDES 1∕2" 7" 18" C 4

28 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 TOP IT OFF AND A BIG FINISH
Note: The Edge-glue a blank for the top (EE) and Do not overtighten the screws in the rear
different shank hole
sizes anchor the top
1 trim it to size. Round over the ends
and front edge on the top and bottom
row so that the panel can expand. A right-
angle driver will help you drive the screws
at the front while
allowing it to expand faces [Exploded View]. Drill shank holes above the dust panel.
in the carcase top (F), but don’t screw the Install the glass in the doors and nail
toward the back.
top in place yet.
Finish-sand all parts. Apply a finish.
4 the glass stops in place [Drawing 5].
Screw the hinges to the doors. Mount the
2 (We sprayed on three coats of matte
lacquer.)
pulls to the drawers and doors, screw the
doors in place, and slide the drawers and
Build the classic
corner cabinet as
a companion.
Nail the carcase back (M) to the shelves in.
3 carcase. Screw the top (EE) in place,
centering the screws in the shank holes.
woodstore.net/
cornercabinet

CUTTING DIAGRAM
This project requires 39 board feet of 4/4 cherry, 14 square feet of 1∕2" cherry,
and 1 square foot of 1∕4" cherry based on example boards shown.
L L K K
K
A A
K
¾ x 5½ x 96" Cherry

B B
C C DD

¾ x 7¼ x 48" Cherry

N Q

¾ x 5½ x 72" Cherry

S S U U

¾ x 7¼ x 96" Cherry
O
P H

¾ x 5½ x 96" Cherry

Z Y Z Y

¾ x 5½ x 96" Cherry

EE I I
H
¾ x 5½ x 96" Cherry (4 needed)

T T T T

½ x 7¼ x 96" Cherry

R R R R

½ x 5½ x 96" Cherry

W W V V

½ x 7¼ x 96" Cherry

D AA BB
¼ x 3½ x 48" Cherry

woodmagazine.com 29
 SHOP TESTED

Benchtop
Router Tables
Can compact tables deliver big-time routing features and
performance? We tested 11 benchtop models to find out.
WRITER: DAVE STONE
TESTER: WOOD STAFF

PHOTOGRAPHER: CARSON DOWNING

30 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 The small Rockler insert
plate hole wouldn’t
accept our Bosch test
router with non-
outer tables stand as one of the removable handles. We
R must-have tools in any shop for
creating joinery, adding profi les,
were able to fit another
midsize router only after
removing the handles to
duplicating parts using templates, and create clearance.
so much more. But full-size router tables
eat a lot of space.
Benchtop tables strive to offer those
same capabilities in a portable package
you can deploy when needed and stow
out of the way when not. We took a look
at 11 to see if they present viable alterna-
tives to full-size tables or if their smaller
sizes reduce routing capability.

THE TALE OF THE TABLETOPS

The tops on nine of our 11 tables are
made from medium-density fiberboard
(MDF) covered with plastic laminate or
melamine (see Routing Results Roundup
on page 35). Bosch uses cast aluminum
for its RA1181, while the Woodstock
W2000 is cast iron. INSERT PLATE HERE
MDF gets a bad rap for flatness among The Bosch RA1141 and the Skil SRT1039 Grizzly insert plates leave accurately
some router-table users, but all the tables mount the router on a steel plate positioning and drilling the holes
impressed us by being flat within a few underneath the table, while the other entirely up to you.
thousandths of an inch, which isn’t tested tables hang the router from a Plate levelers on all 11 tables adjust the
enough to inhibit performance. The cast drop-in insert plate made from plastic, plate flush with the table surface. Some
iron top was flattest of all, but the cast phenolic, or aluminum. are more cumbersome than others, but
aluminum fared no better than MDF. The Bosch RA1171 and RA1181, Ryobi, all get the job done.
Mounting the same Bosch 21∕2-hp router and Rockler BDL7893 simplify router The Ryobi and the Rockler are the only
in each table produced no appreciable mounting with hole patterns that fit a tested tables using non-rectangular
sag, regardless of its material. variety of popular routers (below left). inserts. Rockler touts its as compact
All the tables except the Ryobi Indentations molded into the underside enough to remain attached to your
A25RT03 feature a miter-gauge slot that of the Kreg PRS2100 and Powertec 71402 router if you want to remove it from the
accepts a standard 3∕8×3∕4" miter-gauge plates make it easy to drill only the holes table for handheld use, but the matching
bar. The Ryobi’s slot is 3∕4" wide, but too you need, a solution we highly prefer small hole in the tabletop limits your
shallow for a standard bar. (below right). The Woodstock and both router options (above).

While you’re likely to find a mounting option to match your Molded indentations in Kreg and Powertec insert plates match
router’s hole pattern, universal plates like this Bosch leave common router-mounting hole configurations and center your
unneeded holes that gather dust and could snag workpieces. drill bit so you can drill only the mounting holes you need.

woodmagazine.com 31
ON TO THE FENCE
Good fences make good router tables, to remove the fence (such as for routing
and we were pleased that all 11 proved with a bearing-guided bit or to lift out
acceptably flat along their length and the insert plate during bit changes) you
square to the table. All are equipped have to reach under the table and
with sliding faces as well as tracks for remove the bolt or nut from the knob
attaching accessories (below), and all the that tightens it (right). Slots on the
fences allow offsetting the outfeed face remaining tables have a bolt-clearance
for router-table jointing. hole on one end that allows the clamping
Bolts passing through the fence base bolts to pass through without requiring
allow you to secure it into slots in the disassembly.
table, except the Grizzly T31636 and the Tightening the knobs locks the fences
Woodstock tops, which use T-tracks. The in position on all except the Kreg table.
Slots in the tabletop allow positioning the fence
Bosch RA1181, Grizzly T28048, and It’s equipped with unique cam levers and then locking it in position using, in most cases,
Ryobi slots have no bolt-clearance hole that require only a quarter-turn to lock knobs. Removing the fence from tables with straight
for the bolt head. So, any time you want or unlock the fence (below right). slots requires disassembling the bolts and knobs.

Sliding faces improve workpiece support by reducing

the gap around the bit. Tracks accept accessories
like stops and featherboards that increase safety and
accuracy. (Guard removed for increased visibility.)

Quarter-turn locking levers on the Kreg

fence greatly simplify accurately locking in
the fence. This fence also proved easiest to
remove and reinstall.

EXCLUSIVE ACCESS Tables that provide

wide-open access
Changing bits in a table-mounted router underneath allow
can be challenging. The Bosch RA1141 bit changes without
removing the router,
and RA1181, Rockler, Ryobi, and Skil which means you’ll
tables all require either sliding the spend less time on
router motor out of its base, which can setup changes.
be challenging due to the low height of
these tables, or removing the router and
insert plate from above as a unit. For
most, the latter requires also removing
the fence, making bit changes even more
of a hassle.
The other six tables, thankfully,
minimize obstructions under the front
of the table, providing adequate access to
fit collet wrenches under the table
(right), with Kreg, Powertec, Rockler,
and Woodstock all earning an A grade.

32 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 A 21∕2" port in the removable bag on the Grizzly
T28048 couples with a matching port in the
fence to collect dust underneath and above
the tabletop, creating the most effective
system of all the tables.

DEALING WITH DUST

All the tested tables address collecting
dust except one: The Woodstock has no
dust-collection port. The 10 remaining
are equipped with a dust port on the
fence that connects to a 21∕2" hose.
Two tables take dust collection a step
further. The Bosch RA1171 enclosed
cabinet has a second port in the back to
collect dust under the table. Grizzly
takes the most comprehensive approach
on the T28048 with a bag that attaches
to the base and surrounds the router
completely (left). A zippered flap in front
provides router access.

ON (AND OFF) GUARD

Safety regulations mandate bit guards
on all router tables. Eight of our tested
tables use removable guards that mount
to the fence, while the Woodstock guard
mounts to the table. All are effective
when used, which we encourage, and
relatively easy to remove and install.
Ryobi and Skil bit guards mount
permanently to the fence and rest
against the table surface. A hinge
mechanism allows upward travel as a
board passes under and lifts the guard.
Unfortunately, these guards are clunky,
they get in the way, and they can’t be
securely disabled when necessary,
which makes them, to us, a safety
hindrance rather than an enhancement
(right). Instead of relying on these
guards, we’d recommend replacing them
with an aftermarket guard that mounts
to the fence T-track, such as the simple, Ryobi’s double-hinged guard gets in the way on all but the widest
inexpensive one from Powertec (no. boards and tends to bind rather than to lift upward under side-load
71538, powertecproducts.com, $11). pressure from the board (or hand).

STAND AND DELIVER

Materials and styles vary for the stands Pedestals on the Bosch RA1141 fold
that support our tested tables. The Bosch under the table for compact storing and
RA1171 is the only enclosed cabinet, transport. The Rockler stand folds as
made from melamine-coated particle- well, and can be configured to create a
board. Others are made entirely from wall mount for the table.
plastic composite, steel, or a combination A few bases integrate storage. Zippered
of the two, except for the Woodstock, bags flank the Grizzly T28048 base,
which features cast-aluminum legs. while the Bosch RA1141 has lidded wells

woodmagazine.com 33
in its hollow pedestals. Skil builds
storage into both pedestals (right).
Base stability and vibration dampen-
ing proved adequate on most of the
tables. The Bosch RA1141 folding
pedestals wobbled excessively unless
clamped to the worksurface, however,
and the plastic Skil pedestals tended to
slide around. Other table bases provided
Comprehensive
dependable support without clamping. storage built into
Curious whether the stand makes a each pedestal on the
difference in noise, as manufacturers Skil includes hangers
sometimes claim, we ran our test router for the included
in each and measured noise levels at the featherboards and
insert rings, plus a
operator’s position. We found little shelf in each side with
difference in volume, with all registering shank holes for storing
between 86 and 89 decibels. Sound router bits.
quality remained consistent, too.

THE ROUT TO VICTORY

When the routers wound down and the The Powertec 71402 also ranks as a Top both tables came with a switched outlet
dust settled, two benchtop tables rose to Tool. It’s remarkably similar to the Kreg (found on some other tested models) to
the top in our tests, largely because they table in both design and execution. The power up the router and a vacuum
sacrifice little compared to full-size fence is almost on par with the Kreg, but simultaneously, but both companies
versions other than a slightly smaller lacks its slick cam levers. On the bonus offer them as an optional accessory.
table. We award both Top Tool honors. side, Powertec includes a featherboard
First, the Kreg PRS2100 earns its and a well-made swing stop.
honors thanks to the best fence in our Both award winners will easily accept
test. The quarter-turn cam levers make the largest router you care to mount, as
it by far the easiest to adjust and lock in well as a router lift, if you choose. If your
position. And the fence sits on a shop offers limited space or you want a
high-quality tabletop and insert plate, second table for worksite use, either can
all on a sturdy steel stand. handle your routing needs. We’d love it if

Kreg PRS2100

34 WOOD magazine | July 2024

ROUTING RESULTS ROUNDUP
ACCESSORIES
PERFORMANCE (1) (4)

MITER SLOT CENTER TO BIT CENTER DISTANCE

PRIMARY SECONDARY

INSERT PLATE DIMENSIONS (T × W × L)

FRONT EDGE TO BIT CENTER DISTANCE
TABLE DIMENSIONS (DEPTH × WIDTH)
DUST COLLECTION EFFECTIVENESS

MAX. FENCE DISTANCE BEHIND BIT

WEIGHT, LBS (without router)

ROUTER MOUNTING EASE

INSERT RING QUANTITY

BIT CHANGING ACCESS

FENCE FUNCTIONALITY

STAND MATERIAL (3)

TABLE MATERIAL (2)
EASE OF ASSEMBLY

WARRANTY, YEARS
FENCE LOCKING

TABLE HEIGHT
STABILITY

OPTIONAL
INCLUDED

PRICE (5)
MODEL
BOSCH RA1141 C B C C D D A 16¹/₂×26" 14" M S/P 9¹/₈" 5³/₄" 2¹/₂" NA 3 F, G, H, O NA 25 1 $179

BOSCH RA1171 C C B C A B C 15¹/₂×25" 14³/₈" M M 9⁵/₈" 5¹⁵/₁₆" 1³/₈” ³/₈×9¹/₄×11³/₈" 3 F, G, H, O NA 45 1 $225

BOSCH RA1181 B C C C A A B 18×27" 14³/₄" A P 10³/₄" 5³/₈" 3⁹/₁₆" ³/₈×9¹/₄×11³/₈" 3 G, H, O NA 34 1 $249

GRIZZLY T31636 B C B A C A B 15³/₄×23³/₄" 16¹/₂" M S 9⁷/₁₆" 5⁵/₈" 4" ³/₈×9¹/₄×11³/₄" 1 NA NA 29 1 $247

GRIZZLY T28048 B B B A C A C 15³/₄×23¹/₂" 18" M S/P 9⁹/₁₆" 6¹/₄" 3" ³/₈×9¹/₄×11³/₄" 3 B, G, M, O NA 30 1 $284

KREG PRS2100 A A A B A A B 15³/₄×23³/₄" 15⁵/₈" M S 9⁹/₁₆" 6¹/₂" 2¹/₄" ³/₈×9¹/₄×11³/₄" 3 I F, O, SS 29 3 $250

POWERTEC 71402 A B B B A A B 15³/₄×23⁵/₈" 15¹/₂" M S 9³/₈" 6⁵/₈" 2¹/₈" ³/₈×9¹/₄×11³/₄" 3 F, I, SS O 28 1 $249

ROCKLER BDL7893 A B B C D B B 16³/₈×18¹/₂" 14³/₈" M S 8" 6¹/₂" 5⁵/₈" ³/₈×7¹/₂×9" 1 H T 18 1 $220

RYOBI A25RT03 C C D C A B A 16×32" 14¹/₄" M S 8¹/₈" 5³/₈" 4⁵/₁₆" ³/₈×8×12" 5 G, O NA 28 3 $169

SKIL SRT1039 D C D C D C A 16×26" 14¹/₈" M P 8⁵/₈" 5³/₈" 3³/₈" NA 3 F, O NA 25 1 $119

WOODSTOCK INTL W2000 A C C D C A C 18×24" 17¹/₈" C A 11¹¹/₁₆" 6³/₄" 4" ¹/₄×11×11" 2 G NA 67 1 $600

1. A Excellent 4. (B) Bit centering cone

B Good (F) Featherboard
(G) Miter gauge
C Fair (H) Predrilled insert plate
D Poor (I) Marked insert plate
(O) Switched outlet
(SS) Fence swing stop
2. (A) Aluminum
(T) Trim router plate
(C) Cast iron
(NA) Not applicable
(M) MDF
5. Prices current at time of
3. (A) Aluminum
article production and
(M) MDF
do not include shipping,
(P) Plastic
where applicable.
(S) Steel
(S/P) Steel and plastic

Powertec 71402

woodmagazine.com 35
 MITER-GAUGE
shootin
board Build this shooting board in an
afternoon; use it for a lifetime to
produce gap-free joinery with just
a few strokes of a hand plane.
WRITER: RANDY MAXEY

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
19"W × 20"D × 4"H

36 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 Miter gauge
20" ½" chamfer
shooting board and a sharp
A hand plane bring precision to
fine-tuning joinery and squaring
up workpieces. This one, made
from scrap plywood and hardwood,
holds a removable miter gauge to
simplify locking in exact angles.

Learn about the 2"

techniques and
tools for sharpening
plane irons.
¾" 1"
woodmagazine.com/
getsharp
3/8"
TIP! *20"
We prefer a
low-angle jack
plane for shooting. 11¼" ¼"
The mass helps
drive the plane
forward, and the ½" ¾" dado 3/8" deep 3"
low-angle blade
slices end grain
cleanly.
16" ½"
1"
20"

19"

BUILD YOUR BOARD *Note: Measure your miter-gauge bar

and add 2" to determine
From 1∕2" Baltic birch plywood, cut a the shooting board depth.
1 base and top to size [Drawing]. Glue and
clamp them together keeping one edge and
¾"

the ends flush.

Cut a groove in the top to fit your miter-
Note: Standard
miter-gauge bars 2 gauge bar snugly, and position the bar
flush with or just a hair below the surface
measure 3⁄4×3⁄4".
Measure yours to
be sure.
of the top. Cut a pair of stops and glue them
into the groove, positioning them tight
SHOOT FOR SUCCESS
ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

To use your shooting board, set your

against the ends of the miter-gauge bar.
well-sharpened plane iron for a very
Next, add a thin hardwood guide strip
3 for the plane to ride on. Glue and clamp
the guide in place on the base.
light cut, making sure the blade
protrudes evenly from the plane’s
mouth. Lay the plane on its side on the
From 3∕4" Baltic birch, cut a cleat and
4 plane guide with the sole tight against
PHOTOGRAPHER: CARSON DOWNING

glue it under the front edge of the base.

This hooks over your benchtop to steady the
the edge of the top. Hold your
shooting board while you work.
workpiece against the auxiliary fence,
To support your workpieces, cut an set to the angle you need, and slide it
5 auxiliary fence sized to fit the miter
gauge. We chamfered ours on one end and
over until it touches the toe of the
plane. Slide the plane forward to make
mounted it with screws, making two sets of your cut, keeping the plane’s side flat
mounting holes. One set aligns the end of the against the guide and the sole tight to
fence to the edge of the top at 90°, the other at the top’s edge. With a pass or two,
45°. We left the shooting board unfinished you’ll have a perfectly planed end at
except for waxing the hardwood guide strip the exact angle you need.
to ease the plane’s travel.

woodmagazine.com 37
 Modern
picnic table

Serve up some style at your

next cookout or outdoor party
with this eye-catching table
and bench combo.
WRITER: VINCE ANCONA
DESIGNER: JOHN OLSON
BUILDER: BRIAN BERGSTROM

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
75"L × 68"W × 2921 /2"H

38 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 ick your next picnic up a notch with
K this handsome table and bench.
End frames joined with pocket screws
A

and laminated together give the bench B

Angled
strength, while the opposing angles give clamp block
it grace. This solid design provides a great
look and ensures years of service. C

OUTER FRAME ASSEMBLY

A laminated pair of outer and inner A
frames make up each end assembly of the
table. Start by building the outer frames.
To make the table base, we milled stock
from roughsawn 8/4 Southern yellow
pine. If you choose to use construction
lumber, consider ripping the parts from
the edges of 2×10 and 2×12 boards,
keeping the rift- and quartersawn grain A
sections and avoiding the piths.
Glue and screw the upper rail (B) flush with the ends of
Cut to width and miter-cut to length the legs (A). Then slide the lower rail (C) into position,
TIP!
We used Kreg’s XL
1 the outer frame legs (A) and upper
and lower rails (B, C) [Drawings 1 and 2,
using a clamp and angled clamp blocks to draw the legs
tight while driving the screws.
pocket hole jig to Materials List]. Drill pocket holes at the
drill the oversize ends of the rails. Glue and screw the rails
pocket holes in the
thick stock of this to the legs [Photo A].
picnic table.

Wood plugs hide screws.

3/8"plug EXPLODED VIEW
2½" deck
screw 72"

M M
3/8" counterbore M M
½" deep with M
a 3/16" hole
centered inside 2½" deck L
screws
20º bevel
3/16" gaps
20º bevel
ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

G
End frames ¼" gaps
N N N
are joined
with pocket K
screws. F
H L
PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON DONNELLY

2½" deck screw B

I J
K
N

C
A

E Ends of table
are laminated
from two layers.
D

woodmagazine.com 39
 B

Miter-cut the lower ends of the outer

C
2 frame seat legs (D) and use the outer
frame assembly (A–C) to mark them to
A
length [Drawing 2, Photo B]. Miter-cut
the seat legs to length, then to shape
D by mitering the top outer corners. Drill
pocket holes in each leg then glue and
screw them to the frames (A–C).
Miter-cut the outer frame seat rails
3 (E) to fit between the outer frame legs
(A) and seat legs (D) [Drawings 1 and 2].
Glue and pocket-screw these pieces in
B place to complete the outer frames.
Dry-fit the seat legs (D) to the outer frame legs (A) and use a
straightedge to extend the top edge of the lower rail (C) to mark the
seat legs to length.

1 END ASSEMBLY
B
E
A

Outer Frame
Assembly
D
C G F
A

E
F J I
H
2½" XL pocket screws
D

Inner Frame Assembly

2 OUTER FRAME PARTS VIEWS

20º

20º 20º 20º 50º

3½"

B 3½" D 3½"
20º
3221/32" 3011/32" ½" 175/8"
A
Outer Frame Upper Rail Outer Frame Seat Leg

20º 20º 815/32"

3½" E
C 3½"

20º 395/8" 20º 20º

Outer Frame Lower Rail Outer Frame Seat Rail
Outer Frame Leg

40 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 C

F
A
D
B I

E
Outer frame
D
C

C D
Align a straightedge with the top edge of the lower rail (C), then use a Miter one end of the inner frame seat leg (I) and butt it against a
square to mark the inner frame upper legs (F) to length. straightedge in order to mark the part for length.

INNER FRAME ASSEMBLY

Rather than relying on the Materials List, the outer frame to mark them to length
use the outer frames as templates for [Drawing 3]. Miter-cut the rails to length.
sizing and laying out the inner frame Using a jigsaw, cut the notches in the
parts. This ensures you end up with lower rails (H) for the seat. Glue and screw
identically sized inner and outer frames. the upper legs (F) to the rails.
Mark and cut to length the inner
1 Miter one end of the inner frame
upper legs (F) and use the outer frame 3 frame seat legs (I) [Photo D]. Glue
and screw these to the lower rail of the
to mark the upper legs to length [Photo C,
Drawing 3]. Miter-cut the upper legs to inner frame assembly (F–H).
length. Drill pocket holes at both ends of Mark and cut the inner frame lower
the upper legs.
Cut the inner frame upper and lower
4 legs (J) to length. Glue and screw
each one between a seat leg and the lower
2 rails (G, H) to width and then use rail of the inner frame assembly.

3 INNER FRAME PARTS VIEWS

20º
20º 20º
3½" F
G 2"
20º
111/8" 3713/16"
Inner Frame Upper Leg Inner Frame Upper Rail

6713/16"
12½" 1½"
H 3½"

20º Inner Frame Lower Rail 20º

20º 143/32"

J 3½"
I 3½"
20º
153/8" 20º 50º
Inner Frame Seat Leg Inner Frame Lower Leg

woodmagazine.com 41
 LAMINATE THE FRAMES
Glue each pair of outer and inner
1 frames together, with the pocket
screws facing each other and aligning all
the edges as closely as possible [Photo E].
After the glue dries, remove the clamps
and sand the laminated edges flush. Ease
the edges with a 1∕8" round-over bit and
finish-sand all the surfaces.
Cut the braces (K) [Drawing 4] and
2 brace cleats (L) to size. Use a jigsaw
to cut the notch at the end of each brace.
Glue and screw the cleats to the braces
E
[Exploded View]. Finish-sand the brace
assemblies and set them aside. Apply glue to the inner frame and laminate the outer and inner
frames. Avoid getting glue squeeze-out in the pocketed area for the
seat slats.

4 BRACE

2" 45º

90º K 3½"
215/16"
18" End
assembly

ADD A SEAT AT THE TABLE

Cut five table slats (M) and six seat
1 slats (N) to size. Tilt your tablesaw
blade 20° and bevel-rip one edge of the
outer two table slats.
Drill counterbored pilot holes near F
2 the ends of the table and seat slats.
Ease the edges and sand the bottom face
Center a table slat (M) on the end assemblies, using a clamp to pull
the pieces together. Drive deck screws through the counterbored
of each board. pilot holes in the slat and into the end assemblies.

L FINISH AND ASSEMBLY

M
Stain the frame and brace assemblies.
1 We used Minwax gel stain in black.
With the stain dry, apply three coats

K
2 of spar varnish to the frame and
brace assemblies as well as the bottom
faces, edges, and ends of the table and
seat slats.
Clamp the center table slat between
H
3 the two frame assemblies and screw
it in place [Photo F].
Drill countersunk pilot holes and
Use painter’s tape
to mark location of
brace on lower rail.
4 screw the brace assemblies to the
center table slat and lower rails [Photo G].
Position the outer table slats so the

G
5 beveled edges are flush with the
edges of the frame assemblies. Equally
Center the brace assembly on the lower rail (H), clamp it to the table space the remaining slats and then screw
slat (M), and screw it in place. Then drive screws through the brace the slats in place. Next, attach the seat
cleat (L) and into the table slat. slats [Photo H].

42 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 N
N
MATERIALS LIST
FINISHED SIZE
PART T W L
Matl. Qty.

A OUTER FRAME LEGS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 3221⁄33" SYP 4

B OUTER FRAME UPPER RAILS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 3011⁄33" SYP 2

C OUTER FRAME LOWER RAILS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 395⁄8" SYP 2
D* OUTER FRAME SEAT LEGS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 175⁄8" SYP 4
E* OUTER FRAME SEAT RAILS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 815⁄33" SYP 4
F* INNER FRAME UPPER LEGS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 111⁄8" SYP 4
G INNER FRAME UPPER RAILS 11⁄3" 2" 3713⁄16" SYP 2
H H INNER FRAME LOWER RAILS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 6713⁄16" SYP 2
Screw the inner and outer seat slats (N) to the end assemblies, again I* INNER FRAME SEAT LEGS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 153⁄8" SYP 4
using a clamp to pull everything tight. Then center the remaining slat J INNER FRAME LOWER LEGS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 143⁄33" SYP 4
between the other two and screw it in place.
K BRACES 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 18" SYP 2
L BRACE CLEATS 11⁄3" 31⁄3" 7" SYP 2
Using a 3∕8" plug cutter, make
TIP!
Mask off the end
6 matching wood plugs and glue them
into the counterbores. Sand the top face of
M
N
TABLE SLATS
SEAT SLATS
11⁄3"
11⁄3"
71⁄8"
4"
72"
72"
C
C
5
6

assembly rails so you the table and seat slats. *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
don’t accidentally Apply three coats of spar varnish to
sand them.
7 the top of the table and seat slats.
When the final coat is dry, break out the
MATERIALS KEY: SYP–Southern yellow pine, C–cypress.
SUPPLIES: 21/2" deck screws, 21/2" XL pocket screws.
BITS: 3/8" plug cutter, 1/8" round-over router bit.
PROJECT COST: It cost us about $675 to build this project. Your cost
grill and enjoy your new table. will vary by region and source.

CUTTING DIAGRAM
This project requires 43 board feet of 8/4 Southern yellow pine
and 76 board feet of 8/4 cypress based on example boards shown.

A A

1½ x 3½ x 72" Southern yellow pine (2 needed)

B B E E E E

1½ x 3½ x 96" Southern yellow pine

C F F

1½ x 3½ x 72" Southern yellow pine (2 needed)

D D D D I

1½ x 3½ x 96" Southern yellow pine

G G I

1½ x 3½ x 96" Southern yellow pine

H K L

1½ x 3½ x 96" Southern yellow pine (2 needed)

J J J J I I

1½ x 3½ x 96" Southern yellow pine

1½ x 7¼ x 72" Cypress (5 needed)

1½ x 5½ x 72" Cypress (6 needed)

woodmagazine.com 43
 TRANSFORMABLE

Simple but sturdy, this mobile stand

can hold a benchtop power tool.
Build two stands and you can stack
them or pair them as pedestals for an
add-on workbench top.
WRITER: KERRY GIBSON
DESIGNER: JOHN OLSON
BUILDER: BRIAN BERGSTROM

enchtop tools may come in compact

B

ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

sizes, but you don’t necessarily
want them taking up valuable

PHOTOGRAPHERS: JASON DONNELLY, JACOB FOX

workbench real estate. This heavy-duty
tool stand provides a mobile alternative
to park those tools with onboard storage
options of drawers or shelves. Build a
pair of them and add the sturdy MDF
top, and you’ve created a heavy-duty,
mobile workbench.

44 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 B

C
A
A
B
B

A B
Assemble the side rails (A) and stiles (B) with glue and pocket screws, Use a flush-trim router bit to cut both side panels (C) flush with the
then measure diagonally to check the frame assemblies for square. frame assemblies (A-B)

STOUT SIDES FOR STRENGTH

A pair of dimensional lumber frames skinned
with plywood give the sides strength without
complicated joinery.
From 2×4 stock, rip the side rails (A) and
1 stiles (B) to width and cut them to length
[Drawing 1, Materials List]. Drill pocket holes C
in both ends of the rails, then glue, clamp, and
screw the frames together [Photo A].
Cut the plywood side panels (C)
2 [Drawing 2] slightly oversize, then glue
and clamp them to the frame assemblies
[Drawing 1]. When the glue dries, rout the B
panels flush with the frames [Photo B].
From ¼" hardboard, cut a shelf-pin
3 drilling template 3½×22". Mark a line
1⅜" from one edge along its length, then lay
C
Aligned flush to the edges, the template provides the differing offsets
out and drill shelf-pin guide holes in the for drilling the front and back shelf-pin holes. We added tape as a
template. The self-centering bit [Sources] reminder that “blue means back” and used a 1∕4" self-centering bit.
we used required 3∕8" guide holes. Use the
template as a guide to drill shelf-pin holes
EXPLODED VIEW
in the interior side panels of the side
assemblies (A-C) [Photo C].
24"
Rout a 3∕8" round-over on the
4 front and rear edges of the side
assemblies and sand the routed
22"
D
Box-style sides offer
R=3/8" superior strength
edges smooth. R=3/8"

3/8" round-overs
16"
A
Shelf pin #20
Build shelves or drawers biscuits
to match your storage needs.
C E 22"
B
C
B

20½" 157/8"
F
G 3/8"
G D
OVERALL DIMENSIONS
24"W × 22"D × 279∕16"H (stand)
72"W × 233∕4"D × 2913∕16"H (two stands with top)

woodmagazine.com 45
 CONNECT THE SIDES
Cut the top and bottom (D) to size
1 [Exploded View, Materials List]. Set the
side assemblies in place on the bottom and
B
measure the width for the back (E), then cut
the back to size.
Cut biscuit slots in the edges of the back
2 and transfer the location of the slots
to the side assemblies. Cut slots in the side
C
assemblies [Photo D]. Reset your biscuit
joiner fence and cut slots in the top and A
bottom edges of the outer side panels (C) and
mating slots in the top and bottom (D). D
Because the back (E) is inset from the rear edge of the sides (C), set
your biscuit joiner to cut the slots for the back 3∕4" from the rear edge.
1 SIDE ASSEMBLY That will result in a 3∕8" inset from the rear edge of the sides.

3/8" round-over

A 3/8" round-overs
Apply glue to the edges of the back
3 (E) and in the biscuit slots in the back
and side assemblies, then clamp the back
between the side assemblies. Glue and
clamp the top and bottom in place using the
C B 22" biscuits to keep everything aligned.
When the glue dries, sand the corners of
22"

B C
4 the top and bottom to match the round-
over on the sides.
2½"
pocket screw Cut the shelf (F) and shelf trim (G) to
5 size [Materials List], then glue and
clamp the trim to the underside of the shelf
A so the trim is flush with the front and rear
edges of the shelf.
19"
Finish-sand the assembled stand and TIP!
6 shelf and apply the finish of your choice.
Add swivel casters for mobility and to raise
Shop projects
22" are a great place
the stand to a more optimal working height. to use up partial
cans of finish.

ADD OPTIONAL DRAWERS

2 INNER SIDE PANEL
Drawers with full-extension slides provide
22" secure storage and easy access for large and
small items.
3/8" round-over 3/8" round-over Cut the drawer sides (H) and fronts and
5" ¼" holes 3/8" deep 1 backs (I) to size. [Drawing 3]. Mill a 1∕4"
groove, 1∕4" deep on the inside face of each
drawer side, front, and back.
2" Cut the drawer edging (J) to size, then
2 glue and clamp it to the drawer sides.
Cut the drawer bottom (K) to size. Drill
Front
edge C 22"
3 pocket holes in each end of the drawer
fronts and backs (I). Then glue and clamp the
drawers together and drive in the pocket-
hole screws.
Cut the drawer false fronts (L) to
4 size and glue and clamp them to the
assembled drawers. Finish-sand the drawers
13/8" 21/8" and apply a finish. Then install the drawer
pulls and slides. See Simple Slide Installation
on the next page.

46 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 SIMPLE SLIDE INSTALLATION
Follow these simple steps to position slides consistently
for drawers that fit right and move without binding. All you need
are a few measurements and a scrapwood spacer.

We used full-extension, side-mounted upper drawer to sit 1∕8" below the case below, left, typically the thickness of the
slides, but the technique works for top. Measure the drawer height, 31∕2" in drawer front. Move the spacer to the
other types of slides, as well. our case, and add the 1∕8" gap, for a total other cabinet side and repeat the slide
Each slide should have a plastic lever of 35∕8". Subtracting this from the 22" mounting process.
near the middle that, when tripped, height of the case opening leaves a Use the height of the cabinet member
allows the drawer member to be spacer height of 183∕8". to determine the slide’s centerline,
separated from the cabinet member. Cut a spacer to your determined which you can use to position the
Separate the two components of each height from scrap plywood or MDF and frames on the drawer sides below, right.
slide and set the drawer members aside clamp it inside the case. Rest a drawer- Use this same process to position and
for now. slide cabinet member on top of the install the remaining drawers. We added
First, figure out where you want to spacer. Screw the slide in place, one more at the bottom, resting the
position the drawers. We wanted the positioning it at the appropriate setback cabinet members on 1∕8"-thick spacers.

Drawer-slide
cabinet member

MDF spacer

Rest the cabinet member on the spacer and use an adjustable square Total slide height is 13∕4", so the centerline is 7∕8". Mark a line on the
to gauge the setback. In our case, there’s a 3∕8" round-over plus a 1∕4" drawer side 7∕8" from the bottom edge. Butt the front of the slide
false front, for a total setback of 5∕8". against the false front and drive screws on the line you marked.

¼" groove ¼" deep,

7/16" from bottom edge 13½"

3 DRAWER
J I

H
¾"

K J
1¼" pocket screw
19"
H

3½" 14"
20"
I
L
3½"

5" pull
157/8" 20" drawer slide

woodmagazine.com 47
 TOP IT OFF
A removable benchtop provides bonus work-
space. The frame locks together two pedes-
tals to create a sturdy assembly. We drilled
3∕4" bench-dog holes in the top for flexible
work-holding.
Cut two oversize MDF blanks to form the
1 benchtop (M). Glue and clamp the blanks
together [Photo E]. When the glue dries, cut
the top to finished size [Drawing 4].
Lay out the bench-dog holes on the top,
2 drill the 3∕4" holes [Photo F], and radius
the corners of the top.
Cut the long and short edging (N, O), and
3 spacers (P) to size [Materials List]. Glue
and clamp the spacers to the short edging.
When the glue dries, glue and screw the short
edging assemblies (O-P) between the long
edging. Glue and clamp the edging framework
centered on the underside of the top, making
sure not to block bench-dog holes.
Finish-sand the assembled top and
4 apply the finish of your choice. Then set
the top in place on the stands and get to work
on your next project.

Clamping
caul

E F
Use a roller to spread glue evenly on the face of one MDF blank, then A portable drilling guide makes drilling perpendicular bench-dog
clamp the two blanks together to form the benchtop (M). Clamping holes quick and accurate. We used a 3∕4" brad-point bit from Lee Valley
cauls apply pressure to the center of the panels. that cut more quickly and cleanly than others we tried.

72"
4 BENCHTOP 23¾"
ASSEMBLY M

R=1"
6"
N
¾" holes 6" 27/8"
O 3"
P O O
P
12¾" P
P
241/8"
N 221/8"
64"

48 #8 x 1¼" F.H. screw WOOD magazine | July 2024

 MATERIALS LIST
FINISHED SIZE FINISHED SIZE
PART T W L
Matl. Qty. PART T W L
Matl. Qty.

STAND BENCHTOP
A SIDE RAILS 11∕2" 21∕2" 19" DF 4 M* BENCHTOP 11∕2" 233∕4" 72" MDF 1

B SIDE STILES 11∕2" 21∕2" 22" DF 4 N LONG BENCH EDGING 3∕4" 11∕2" 64" BP 2

C* SIDE PANELS 3∕4" 22" 22" BP 4 O SHORT BENCH EDGING 3∕4" 11∕2" 221∕8" BP 4

D TOP/BOTTOM 3∕4" 22" 24" BP 2 P BENCH SPACERS 3∕4" 3∕4" 221∕8" BP 4

E BACK 3∕4" 16" 22" BP 1 *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
F SHELF 3∕4" 157∕8" 201∕2" BP 1 MATERIALS KEY: DF–Douglas fir, BP–birch plywood.
SUPPLIES: 11∕4" and 21∕2" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws,
G SHELF TRIM 1∕2" 3∕4" 157∕8" DF 2
#8×11∕4" wood screws, 1∕4" shelf pins, #20 biscuits.
DRAWER BLADE AND BITS: Flush-trim and 3∕8" round-over router bits, 3∕8" drill
bit, 1∕4" self-centering drill bit, 1∕4" straight router bit or dado blade, 3∕4"
H DRAWER SIDE 3∕4" 31∕2" 20" BP 4 brad-point drill bit.
SOURCE: Casters, no. 84082 (4), $8; 20" drawer slides, no. 44437
I DRAWER FRONT/BACK 3∕4" 31∕2" 131∕2" BP 4
(2 pairs), $30; drawer pulls, no. 1007320 (2), $3, Rockler, rockler.com.
J DRAWER EDGING 3∕4" 7∕16" 20" BP 4 PROJECT COST: It cost us about $275 to build this project
(one stand including shelf and two drawers, plus benchtop).
K DRAWER BOTTOM 1∕4" 14" 19" BP 2 Your cost will vary by region and source as well as by how many units
L DRAWER FALSE FRONT 1∕4" 31∕2" 157∕8" DF 2 you choose to build.

CUTTING DIAGRAM
This project requires two 8' fir 2×4s, one 2' fir 1×4, and
one 1∕4×31∕2" fir board based on example boards shown.

A A A A

1½ x 3½ x 96" Fir
B B B B

1½ x 3½ x 96" Fir

I
I I I

C C
E F

C C D D

M M

¾ x 48 x 96" Birch plywood

N J
P P P P
O O O O
H H H H

¾ x 12 x 96" Birch plywood

G
½ x 3½ x 24" Fir K K
¾ x 48 x 96" MDF
L L
¼ x 3½ x 48" Fir ¼ x 20 x 40" Birch plywood

woodmagazine.com 49
 Breadboard Ends

This traditional method for concealing end grain relies on a

hidden trick to work properly. Find out the “hole” story behind
breadboard ends with this time-tested method.
WRITER: KERRY GIBSON with JOHN OLSON

dding breadboard ends certainly dresses The solution you’ll learn here uses drawbore
A up a project whether it’s a cutting board
or a tabletop. A tongue on the panel fits into the
pegs to hold the cap tightly against the
shoulders of the tenon. But what you don’t
grooved end cap, neatly concealing the panel’s see is that the outer pegs pass through slots
end grain. But because the wood grain of the cut in the panel’s tenon, allowing the pegs to
two pieces runs perpendicular, the panel’s side- maintain their grip, even as the panel expands
to-side expansion far exceeds the longitudinal and contracts.
expansion of the cap. Try gluing the joint and We’ll show you how to handle breadboard
this wood movement will inevitably break the ends with a simple cutting board, but this
glue bond, cause splits in the main panel, or technique can be adapted to work with large
cracks in the breadboard end cap. tabletops as well.

50 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 GET YOUR GROOVE ON
Start by planing the stock for the panel and the bread-
board end caps to the same thickness. Edge-glue the
panel to be slightly wider than finished size. For our
cutting board example, we used 3/4" maple.
The first trick to this technique requires cutting the
groove in the end caps just slightly deeper—about 1/32"—
than the length of the tenon [Photo A]. This provides just
enough play for the drawbore pegs to work without having
the tenon bottom out in the groove.
For our cutting board, we made the tenons 1/4×11/4", and
the groove in the end caps 1/4×19/32". For a snug fit, cut a test
tenon in scrap, raising or lowering the dado blade slightly
to adjust the tenon’s thickness [Photo B].

A
Center a 1/4" stacked dado blade on the end cap stock and
cut the groove. For our dense maple, we made a pass with a
regular blade first to remove some waste and make it easier to
complete the groove.
PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON DONNELLY

B
Set your fence to cut the tenon to proper length. Cut the
cheek on one side, making multiple passes. Then flip the panel
over and cut the cheek on the other side.

woodmagazine.com 51
 DRILL THE END CAPS
With the grooves and tenons cut, lay out
and drill the holes for the drawbore pegs
in the end caps. We measured and
marked the hole locations, then used a
scratch awl to create a dimpled starting
point for the brad-point bit [Photo C].
Use a drill press to keep the bit perpen-
dicular to the workpiece and for drilling
accuracy. A brad-point bit won’t slip or
deflect and cuts clean, splinter-free
holes [Photo D]. C
Lay out the location of the drawbore pegs on the end caps and mark
them with an awl. Center them on the depth of the groove so the end
caps or tenon won’t split when you drive the drawbore pegs.

D E
Use a 1/4" brad-point bit to drill the peg holes in the end caps. Insert a Position the end cap on the tenon, then use the same 1/4" brad-point
piece of scrap into the groove to help prevent blowouts and maintain bit to transfer the hole locations from the end cap to the tenon. Spin
alignment as the bit passes through the groove. the bit or tap it so the point leaves a mark.

OFFSET THE TENON HOLES

To allow the pegs to draw the end caps
tight, you’ll need to offset the holes in
the tenon slightly closer to the tenon
shoulder. The pegs will force the offset
holes to line up, drawing the breadboard
end caps tight against the shoulder.
Start by slipping the end caps in place
on the tenon, then use the same brad-
point bit to mark the hole locations on
the tenon [Photo E].
Remove the end caps and set a marking TIP!
gauge slightly—1/32" to 1/16"—closer to the
Make your awl
tenon shoulder [Photo F]. Use an awl to marks easier to
mark the hole locations on the offset see by inserting a
line, then drill the holes in the tenon sharp pencil in the
F [Photo G]. indentation.
Set a marking gauge slightly closer to the shoulder than the marked
centerpoints. Then make new centerpoint marks on the scribed line at
the location of each of the previously marked hole centers.

52 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 THERE’S MORE TO A BREADBOARD
END THAN MEETS THE EYE, BUT
AVOIDING A WOOD-SPLITTING
CATASTROPHE IS WORTH THE
EASY ADDITIONAL EFFORT.
-JOHN OLSON, DESIGN EDITOR

G
Using the same bit as before, drill the peg holes in the tenon on the
offset centerpoints you just marked. Place a piece of scrap under the
tenon to prevent blowouts.

PROVIDE ROOM TO MOVE

The real key to breadboard end success
requires lengthening the outer holes
slightly so the panel can expand and
contract across its width. To do this, use
a small round file to expand the outer
holes slightly across the panel’s width,
being careful to keep on the same line as
the original hole [Photo H].

GO EASY ON THE GLUE

To attach the breadboard end caps, apply
glue sparingly to the center portion of
the tenons, then install the caps so the
holes in the end caps align with the
offset holes in the tenons. Clamp the end H
caps in place to help draw them tightly Enlarge the outer holes with a round file, being careful to expand the
against the tenon shoulder. holes only across the panel’s width. This ensures that the drawbore
TIP! Cut your dowel pegs extra long and pegs will hold, yet allow the panel to expand and contract.
sand a bevel on one end of each. Apply
For small
dowels, use a glue to the center holes and drive those
pencil sharpener dowels into place.
to quickly taper Tap the outer pegs until the taper is all
one end to a the way through the end cap. Then
blunt point.
apply a small amount of glue around
each peg and tap them in no more than
another 1/8-1/4" [Photo I]. This keeps glue
out of the slotted holes in the tenon so
side-to-side motion won’t be hindered.
Use a flush-trim saw to cut off the
excess pegs and sand them flush.
Finally, trim both edges so the panel and
end caps are perfectly flush. Now you’ll
have breadboard ends that look great
and will stand the test of time.

I
Insert the tapered end of extra-long dowel pegs into the holes and
drive them so they protrude on both sides. Apply glue so that the pegs
are glued to just the end caps and not the tenon.

woodmagazine.com 53
VENEER-SHADE
lamp
Get ready for warm and glowing
reactions to this lamp. It makes
sheets of veneer and bits from your
scrap bin really shine.
WRITER: CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
DESIGNER/BUILDER: KEVIN BOYLE

ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON DONNELLY

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
81/2"W × 81/2"D × 131/8"H

54 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 fter applying a finish, we often say that wood has a “glow.” This
A project takes that to another level. The glow comes from within—a
light bulb shines through veneer adhered to clear acrylic panels. The
polished edges of the acrylic also create striking illuminated vertical
accents at each corner. Tablesaw joinery makes this a simple project
you can complete in a few evenings.

EXPLODED VIEW
1/8"-deep groove 5/8" from
outside edge, sized to fit panels
B
B
8"

45° miters D
E

Veneer

E
E 11¾"
A

60-watt-
equivalent
tubular
LED bulb
D

1/8 x 6 x 12"
clear acrylic

Lamp socket

¼" groove ¼" deep,

centered 1/8"-deep groove
7/16" hole, centered
5/8" from outside edge,
B sized to fit panels

C
B
F
8"

1/8 IP lamp pipe

¾" long
45°
miters
Pipe nut F

12' cord set

¼"

Line switch F

2"

woodmagazine.com 55
 Scrapwood
spreader

A B
Fill one circle with resin, the other with hardener. Mix the two thor- Cover the acrylic with a thin, even layer of epoxy, ensuring it reaches
oughly. Repeat this for each panel as you prepare them. to the edges and avoiding pools that could bleed through the veneer.

GET CLEAR ON THE VENEER

Clear epoxy adheres the veneer to the
acrylic without diminishing any light. A
lighter-colored veneer, such as the birch
we used, lets more light through. A burl
pattern adds character and looks great
with a little prep. See Veneering? Relax.
on the next page.
For the panels (A), cut four pieces of
TIP!
Leave the
1 1∕8" acrylic to 61∕4×121∕4". A 60- or 80-
tooth blade in the tablesaw works well.
protective film on Lightly sand the cut edges with 220-grit
the acrylic while sandpaper to remove burrs.
making cuts to
Cut four 61∕4×121∕4" pieces of veneer.
prevent scratches.
2 From scraps of 3∕4" sheet goods, cut
two 61∕2×121∕2" pieces to use as clamping
cauls. Tear four 7" lengths of waxed paper
from a roll and remove the protective film
from one face of each piece of acrylic. Lay
a piece of acrylic on one of the cauls, film
side down.
On a clean piece of scrap, lay out two
TIP!
Five-minute epoxy
3 11∕2"-diameter circles. Use these to
evenly dispense and then mix the epoxy
should provide [Photo A]. Apply the thoroughly mixed
plenty of open
epoxy to an acrylic panel [Photo B], place
time, but work
quickly once you the veneer on it [Photo C], and clamp the
begin mixing. assembly [Photo D]. Repeat this process to
make the four panels (A), starting with a
fresh mix of epoxy for each.
After the epoxy cures, trim the
4 panels to finished size [Materials
List]. Finish-sand the veneer to 220 grit.
Polish the long edges of each panel
5 by sanding with 150-, 220-, and
then 320-grit sandpaper [Photo E]. Then
remove the remaining protective film.

56 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 VENEERING? RELAX.
Because veneer is only about 1∕40" thick, it tends
to wrinkle and warp as it dries. That’s especially
true with figured veneers—the type that looks
great on this lamp. Trying to force the veneer flat
results in cracks and splits. Fortunately, you can
make it relax and become easier to work with by
giving it a nice soaking and a few absorbent
towels. (Similar methods also work on the
WOOD® magazine staff after deadline.)
Veneer softening solutions [Sources] are a mix
of water, glycerin, and alcohol. Spraying the
veneer with the solution and then clamping it
C between cauls will make it pliable. Here’s how.
Position the veneer on the epoxied acrylic, cover the veneer with a Cover your workbench with a towel or drop
piece of waxed paper, and then add the second caul.
cloth to catch any overspray. For each sheet of
veneer, prepare a pair of cauls from 3∕4" sheet
goods slightly larger than the veneer sheet. You’ll
also need a roll of paper towels.
Place a caul on your bench and cover it with a
layer of paper towels. Lay a sheet of veneer on
the towels, then spray it with the softening
solution just enough to dampen the sheet [top
photo, below]. Cover the veneer with another
layer of paper towels, place the second caul on
top, and lightly clamp the stack together [bottom
photo]. Then repeat for the remaining pieces of
veneer. Let these sit overnight, and the next
morning, the veneer should be pliable, not
damp, and ready to use.

D
Make sure the cauls overhang all edges of the panel (A), and clamp
the assembly firmly around all four sides.

Lightly mist the veneer sheet. You want even coverage

over the sheet, but not puddles of liquid.

E
Use sanding blocks to keep the acrylic edges as square as possible as Lightly clamp at each corner of the cauls to apply even
you work through the grits. pressure. The idea is to press, not crush, the fragile veneer.

woodmagazine.com 57
 B

Mitered
stopblock
F G
Clamp a stopblock to your miter-gauge auxiliary fence and cut the A band clamp applies even pressure at each corner, keeping all four
frame sides (B) to finished length. pieces aligned.

FRAME UP THE PANELS

Cut four 1∕2×11∕2×18" blanks for the top
1 and bottom frame sides (B). Mark the
outside edge of each blank; then cut a D /D/ E
A

groove on one face of each blank sized to

accept the panels (A) [Exploded View].
Cut a 1∕4" groove in the inside edge of two
of the blanks. These blanks will be used for
the bottom frame.
Cut opposing miters on the ends of
2 each blank. Then cut the frame sides
(B) to finished length [Photo F]. Glue up
A

the top frame only [Photo G].

Dry-fit the pieces for the bottom
3 frame and cut the bottom panel (C)
to fit in the grooves [Exploded View]. Drill
the hole in the center of the panel, then H
glue up the frame around the panel.
Align a post/clip assembly (D/D/E) by dry-fitting two panels (A) in the
To make the clips (D), cut a 3∕4×3∕4×12"
4 blank. Cut grooves in adjacent edges
to accept the panels (A) [Drawing 1]. Then
bottom frame. Clamp the clip and carefully remove the panels.

rabbet one edge. Cut the clips to length.

Mill stock for the posts (E) and cut Dry-fit two panels (A) in the bottom
5 them to finished length. Glue a
clip (D) flush with each end of the posts
6 frame and use them to position a post/
clip assembly at the corner as you glue the
Cut small parts to
[Exploded View]. post in place [Photo H]. Work your way
length safely with
this tablesaw sled. around the base to glue the remaining posts/
woodstore.net/ clips in place [Photo I].
smallpartsled 1 CLIP DETAIL After the glue dries, glue the panels (A)

3/8" *1/8" 1/8"

7 to the bottom clips (D) and the bottom
frame [Photo J]. After all four panels are in
place, apply glue to the groove in the top
frame and to the top of the posts and clips.
Clamp the top frame in place.
3/8"
Cut the feet (F) to size and glue them to

¾"
8 the corners of the bottom frame. After
the glue dries, finish-sand and apply a finish.
D (We sprayed on two coats of lacquer.)
Install the lamp parts as shown in
*1/8"
1/8"
9 Drawing 2 or have a qualified electrician
wire the lamp. Switch on the light and bask
*Size the ¼"-deep grooves to in the warm glow of a beautiful project.
the thickness of your panels A .

58 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 2 WIRING DIAGRAM

Insulated
cover

Bulb socket

I Gold screw
Silver screw
Check that the posts remain perpendicular to the base and parallel to
one other.
Ribbed (neutral)
wire

Smooth (hot) wire

Strain-relief knot

Bottom cap

A 1/8 IP lamp pipe Setscrew

¾" long

Pipe nut
Cord
J
Apply glue only to the outside wall of the grooves in the bottom
frame and the grooves in the bottom clips. Do not put glue in the top
clips, as it would smear along the exposed panel edges.

MATERIALS LIST CUTTING DIAGRAM

FINISHED SIZE This project requires 2 board feet of 4/4 walnut based on example board shown.
PART T W L
Matl. Qty.
†F †F
D D
A* PANELS 1∕8" 6" 12" VA 4
†B †B †B †B †E
B* FRAME SIDES 1∕2" 11∕2" 8" W 8
¾ x 3½ x 72" Walnut †Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
C BOTTOM PANEL 1∕4" 51∕2" 51∕2" P 1
D* CLIPS 3∕4" 3∕4" 3∕4" W 8
E POSTS 3∕8" 3∕8" 113∕4" W 4
F FEET 3∕8" 2" 2" W 4
C
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
MATERIALS KEY: VA–veneered acrylic, W–walnut, ¼ x 12 x 12"
P–plywood. Plywood
SUPPLIES: Veneer, waxed paper.
SOURCES: 1∕8×30×36" acrylic no. 11233, $39; 12' 18-2
lamp cord no. 40273, $12; lamp switch no. 77568, $4;
keyless lamp socket no. 75111, $6; lamp pipe 1/8 IP no.
46797, $4; lamp pipe nuts (pack of 16) no. 47808, $3; LED
bulb (2-pack) no. 5190583, $15, epoxy no. 50240H $22,
Lowe's, lowes.com. Super-Soft 2 veneer softener 16 oz,
$15, veneersupplies.com.
PROJECT COST: It cost us about $180 to build this
project. Your cost will vary by region and source.

woodmagazine.com 59
 PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON DONNELLY; ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON
SLED INTO
SUCCESS WITH
se mented
bowls
Start your journey toward creating beautiful bowls with the first critical
step: accurately cutting and assembling the angled segments.
WRITER: TOM WHALLEY with DAVE STONE
DESIGNER: TOM WHALLEY

60 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 aking segmented bowls starts with
M cutting strips of wood into small pieces,
then gluing those pieces together to form
rings. Stack the rings, and you can create
bowls and vessels with striking appearances.
Forming rings with tight-fitting joints
requires accurately cutting those segments
with consistent lengths and angles. The key to
success: a tablesaw sled with two fences. We’ll
show you how to calculate the correct angles
for a basic bowl, build the sled, cut segments,
and glue them into rings.

SEGMENTED BOWL JIG

1¼"
#8 x 1¼" F.H. screw
Rear fence
IT’S ALL IN
11¾" THE ANGLES
Creating rings starts
Adhesive-backed sandpaper with determining how
many pieces (segments)
¾" you want in each ring, using
12" Front fence simple math. Start with 360, the number of
12" degrees in a complete circle. Then divide by
the number of segments you want. For
Base ¾" simplicity, choose an even number that
15º divides easily into 360.
A basic bowl made up of rings with 12
segments offers an easy way to get started.
Divide 360° by the number of segments to
determine the overall angle formed by their
45° chamfer intersection (360°/12=30°). Dividing that
¼ x ¾ x 14"
Saw kerf, miter-slot runner number by 2 determines the angle to cut on
cut after assembly Blade to each end of every segment (30°/2=15°). The
miter-gauge slot chart on page 63 shows angles for rings
¼" distance + ¾"
with different numbers of segments.

LET’S GO SLEDDING
With your angles determined, build a
tablesaw sled to cut the segments. Before
you begin, make sure that your blade sits at
90° to the saw table, and that the blade is
parallel to the miter gauge slot.
From 3∕4" plywood, cut the base to size Tune up your
[Drawing]. For these 12-segment rings, mark tablesaw for
two 15° angles across the face [Photo A]. Then accurate cuts with
this FREE video
cut a 45° chamfer on this same edge. woodmagazine.com/
From scrap hardwood, make a runner tablesawtuneup
to fit the width of your miter-gauge slot.
Measure from your saw blade to the miter-
gauge slot, add 3∕4", and then screw the
runner to the underside of the base at this
location, taking care to position the runner
A parallel to the chamfered edge.
Lay out the fence locations at opposing 15° angles from one edge of
the base. A digital angle finder provides accurate measurement.

woodmagazine.com 61
 Stop cut
here.
Cut a pair of fences, leaving them about 1"
overlong. Screw them to the base, carefully
aligning them with the 15° layout lines and
overhanging the chamfered base edge.
Cut a stopped kerf in the base,
simultaneously trimming the fences to
length [Photo B]. 2e stopped cut leaves the
chamfered edge of the base attached, creating
an offramp that allows the segments to fall
away from the blade as you cut them. Finally,
to help hold your segment blanks in place,
adhere sandpaper to the fence faces. Stop the
sandpaper just shy of the cut-off ends so your
blade won’t contact the abrasive. B
Raise the blade to cut through the fences, and then cut a kerf in the
base. Stop the cut just beyond the rear fence.

START CUTTING SEGMENTS

Now you can cut segments using the sled
to cut both ends accurately without any
setup changes.
Cut blanks to width from contrasting or
Stopblock complementary species, making sure they
are the same thickness. Then determine
how long you want your segments. To
make a bowl approximately 6" in diameter
at its rim, we cut segments ranging from
7∕8" to 11∕2" long, increasing length about
1∕8" for each layer. (You’ll add a solid base
to enclose the bottom of the bowl later.)
Make a 3"-wide stopblock thick enough
to butt the segment blanks against. Clamp
the stopblock to the rip fence on the infeed
C side of the blade and set the fence so that
the distance between the stopblock and
Trim your first segment blank using the rear sled fence. This cuts the the sled’s kerf matches your desired
end at 15°. This first cut doesn’t require the stopblock.
segment length.
Using the rear fence, trim the end of one TIP!
blank [Photo C]. Pull the sled back as soon
If you’re worried
as the trimmed end falls away so you don’t about cutting off
cut off the chamfered edge of the base. the chamfered edge,
Move the blank to the front fence, mount a stopblock
keeping the same face of the blank against to the saw table
Stopblock using double-faced
the sled. Butt the end against the stop-
tape to stop the sled
block, and then push the sled forward to short of a full cut.
cut the first segment free [Photo D].

D
Use the stopblock to position the workpiece on the front fence for the
opposite 15° cut. The offramp pushes the segment away from the blade.

62 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 With the first segment cut, retract the
sled, move the blank back to the rear
fence, butt it against the stop block, and
make another pass with the sled to cut
the next segment. Repeat this back-and-
forth process until you’ve cut six seg-
ments—enough for half of a ring. Then
switch to your contrasting blank and
repeat the process, starting with trim-
ming the end then making cuts using
each fence [Photo E].
Adjust your tablesaw fence to cut the
next length and repeat the process to cut
E the next ring’s segments.
Make repeat cuts in the contrasting blank, moving between the front
and back fences, to cut as many identical segments as you need.

GATHER UP FOR THE GLUE-UP

TIP! Lay out the blanks for one layer and glue
them together by spreading glue on the
Because the ends
of the segments are angled end of one piece and joining it to
end grain, they will its neighbor. To keep the pieces from
soak up more glue. slipping, rub them together a few times
Be sure to apply to create tack. Glue on one segment at a
enough to create a
time to build your ring. Add masking
strong bond.
tape to the outer edges to hold the joints
[Photo F]. Work quickly but deliberately
to complete a ring before the glue starts
to dry.
After the glue sets, remove the tape
and sand to remove squeeze-out and
flatten the ring faces. Stack the rings
and dry-fit your bowl [Photo G]. Then
offset the joints and glue-up your bowl. F
Once the glue dries, cut a bottom to fit,
glue it on, and then head to the lathe to Glue one segment at a time to your ring, adding tape every few seg-
ments. Then wrap the entire ring tightly while the glue sets.
turn your segmented rings into a beauti-
ful bowl. With the basics mastered, we
bet your first one won’t be your last.

KNOW ALL
THE ANGLES
SEGMENTS CUT ANGLE
10 18°
12 15°
18 10°
20 9°
30 6°
36 5°
G
Before gluing up your bowl, stack the rings and check to ensure no
gaps exist between layers. Plywood cauls distribute clamping pressure.

woodmagazine.com 63
 Build this accent table and
try your hand at an uncommon
technique for dressing up
tapered legs.
WRITER: VINCE ANCONA
DESIGNER/BUILDER: KEVIN BOYLE

PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON DONNELLY; ILLUSTRATORS: ROXANNE LEMOINE, LORNA JOHNSON

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
20"W × 20"D × 25"H

64 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 ide tables with tapered legs are nothing
S new. But this one has a twist. Contrasting
woods make up the legs, giving them the
appearance of wearing socks. Creating this
look seems complicated, and it requires
careful fitting, but we’ll help you put your
best foot forward.

A
EXPLODED VIEW

20"
20"
E

¾" round-over
Figure-8 fastener
A
C
Using your rip fence as a stop and an auxiliary miter-gauge fence to
minimize chip-out, cut a 3∕8"-deep dado on all four faces of each leg
Half-laps join 24" blank (A). Leave the dado blade set up for a later step.
the stretchers.

A D
D
C 5½" A SOCK IT TO ME
23¼" Create the socks by cutting a long, skinny
core at the end of each leg and wrapping
that with contrasting wood before tapering
A the legs at the tablesaw.
Cut the leg blanks (A) to size [Materials
B B
1 List, Exploded View, Drawing 1].
Lay out the waste areas on the faces

Note: Taper legs after

A
B
B
2 and end of each leg. Cut a dado on
all four sides of each leg to establish the
forming mortises
and adding socks. shoulder of the foot [Photo A].
Bandsaw away the bulk of the waste

B B
3 around the core of each leg, staying on
the waste side of the layout lines [Photo B].
Then return to the tablesaw to bring the
core to final size [Photo C].

Waste

B C
Staying on the waste side of the layout lines, remove most of the Using the same dado-blade setup, make overlapping cuts on all four
remaining waste on each leg. A rip fence helps guide the workpiece sides of the leg, centering the core and bringing it to final size. The
for straight, square cuts. goal is to end up with a core that is 5∕8" square.

woodmagazine.com 65
 1 LEG/SOCK ASSEMBLY Using a shop-made V-block to support
4 the leg, cut a notch at the top end of each
leg [Photo D, Drawing 1].
1"-deep 3/8"
mortise Using the same V-block for support, form

3/16"
5 a mortise in each leg [Photo E, Drawing 1].
From 3∕8" stock, cut four 11∕2×24" blanks
3" 25/8"
6 for the sock sides (B). Bevel-rip the edges
of each blank to 13∕8" to match the legs (A).
4¼" Cut the sock sides to rough length of 51∕2".
7 Lay four of the blanks facedown, side-by-
side with the ends flush. Place strips of tape
Learn three ways to
craft mortise-and-
across the blanks and roll them into a square tenon joints.
13/8" tube, making sure the bevels are tight. Square woodmagazine.com/
one end of the assembly and cut the other end 3mortisemethods
Note: Taper starts to final length at the tablesaw. (For an alternate
4¼" from top of sock design, see Dress Socks on page 68.)
leg and reduces
to ¾" square
at bottom. Taper
legs after adding LEG (Top View)
sock blanks and
cutting mortises. A
A
13/8" ¾" 3/8"

A
13/8"

V-block

B
B 5¼"
B 5¼"
B D
With the leg blank supported in a V-block, raise the dado blade to cut
5/8" a 3∕8"-deep notch at the top end of each leg. Guide the cut with your
5/8"
13/8" miter gauge and use the fence as a stop to control the notch length.

B
B
B
B

V-block

Painter’s
tape

E F
Use the V-block to support each leg while cutting the mortises. Adhere painter’s tape across the four sock blanks, then flip the
Center the mortising bit on the width of the notch as you create a assembly over to apply glue to the bevels, upper ends, and inside
1"-deep mortise. faces of the blanks before wrapping them around the leg tenon.

66 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 Drill
guide

B B

A
G H
Use several strips of painter’s tape to hold the sock assembly against At the drill press, make a drill guide by drilling a 1∕4" centered hole
the faces of the core and light pressure from a bar clamp to hold it through a block of scrap sized to match the leg. Add a cleat to align the
against the shoulders while the glue sets up. guide with the leg. Then drill a centered hole in the end of each leg.

Slide the assembly over one of the legs

8 to check the fit. If it’s too tight, unroll
the sock and lightly sand the inside face of
each sock side (B). If too loose, remove the
tape and trim the width of each sock side.
Once you’re satisfied with the fit, retape the A
roll if necessary and apply glue [Photo F].
Clamp the assembly to the leg [Photo G] and
repeat the process for the other three legs.
After the glue has dried, remove the
9 clamps and tape, then sand the socks
flush with the faces of the legs.
Tapering
jig

Using a shop-made jig sized to fit

10 the leg, drill a hole centered on the
bottom of each leg [Photo H].
Build a tapering jig (see Simple
11 Tablesaw Tapering Jig, below) and
taper all four sides of each leg [Photo I].
I
Using the tapering jig, taper all four sides of each leg, rotating the leg
after each cut. Finish-sand the legs after tapering to remove any saw
blade marks.

SIMPLE TABLESAW TAPERING JIG Toggle clamp

Taper the legs using this jig. At one end of the jig, a
block with a pivot pin allows you to rotate the ¼ x1½ x 27/8"
1½ x1½ x 4"
blocks
leg to taper all four sides. A toggle clamp plywood stop
secures the other end. To position the
pivot block and the clamp block, lay #8 x 1"
out the ends of the taper on one of F.H. screw
your leg blanks and line these up with 13/8"
¼" dowel
the edge of the jig base. Insert the ¾" long 11/16"
pivot block into the hole in the leg ¾ x 8 x 28" plywood
¼" hole 3/8"
blank and butt the clamp block
against the face of the leg near the
opposite end. Mark the location of both
blocks and glue them in place.
13/8"
2¾"

woodmagazine.com 67
 DRESS SOCKS
Create a fancier look by changing the shape of the socks. This
example features rounded tops for an arched appearance.

Create the core by first drilling out the To round the ends of the sock sides, Apply painter’s tape to the outside
top of the waste area using a 13∕8" make a jig from 1∕2" plywood. Start by face of each set of sock blanks, using a
Forstner bit and a stop block to position drawing the radius on the jig base, then straightedge to keep the bottom ends
the holes, below left. Then at the cutting and sanding to the line, checking of the blanks aligned, below right. Roll
bandsaw, cut away the bulk of the the fit of the profile against the leg. Once the blanks up into a square and test the
remaining waste. Finally, use a dado set you’re satisfied with the fit, add a couple fit on one of the legs, sanding where
to bring the 5∕8"-square core to final size. of sides and a toggle clamp to hold the necessary. Once you’re satisfied with
To make the socks, start by cutting workpieces. Butt each sock side blank in the fit, trim the sock sides to final
four 11∕2×24" blanks from 3∕8" stock. the jig against the clamp block and trace length, apply glue, and glue them to the
Bevel rip the blanks to a final width of the radius. Rough-cut the waste at the leg, bottom left. After the glue dries,
13∕8", then crosscut the individual sock bandsaw, then trim the profiles with the sand the socks flush with the legs and
side blanks to rough length of 51∕2". jig and a pattern bit, below center. then taper the legs at the tablesaw.

B B B
B

Straightedge
Pattern A
13∕8" A bit Flush-trim Painter’s
Forstner jig tape
bit
Stop
block

Create the arcs by drilling centered, 3∕8"-deep A jig keeps your hands a safe distance from Use a straightedge to align the sock side
holes on the faces of the leg. Use a stop the bit as you shape the ends of the sock blanks, then apply painter’s tape to the
block to center the holes 45∕16" from the end. sides with a pattern bit. outside faces to hold the blanks together.

Toggle
clamp
All parts are 1∕2"
plywood.

21∕2" 51∕8"

B
A
B
11∕16"
13∕8"

1"
41∕2"
Glue the sock assembly together around the
tenon. Then slide the assembly into place. 10"

68 WOOD magazine | July 2024

 C
C

J K
Cut the cheeks and bottom shoulders of the tenons on all the To cut the half-laps in the stretchers (C), use your rip fence as a stop
stretchers (C) first, using the fence as a stop. Then raise the dado to cut the shoulders first, flipping the workpiece end-for-end be-
blade to 13∕16" to cut the top shoulders of the tenons. tween passes. Then cut away the waste in the center.

ADD A TOP THAT FLOATS

Create a tabletop that appears to float in Finish-sand the legs and stretchers.
midair by starting with a pair of half-lapped
stretchers that connect the legs.
4 Glue and clamp each stretcher between
a pair of legs, using V-notched clamp blocks
Cut the stretchers (C) to size [Drawing 2]. to avoid bruising the corners of the legs.
1 Using a dado blade, cut tenons on the
ends of the stretchers [Drawing 3, Photo J]. 5 Cut the corner blocks (D) to size
[Materials List, Exploded View]. Slide
Note: If Lay out the half-laps on the stretchers, the two leg/stretcher assemblies (A–C)
your dado blade
is too small to
2 making sure to offset the tenons so
you create a top and bottom stretcher
together and glue two of the corner blocks
into opposing corners. After the glue dries,
cut the 2"-deep
half-laps, switch [Drawing 3]. Cut the half-laps at the glue the remaining corner blocks in place.
tablesaw using a dado blade [Photo K]. Glue up a blank for the top (E). Cut the
to a standard
saw blade.
3 Lay out the curved profile on the ends
of the stretchers. Cut the profiles at
6 top to size and rout a round-over along
the bottom edges. Finish-sand the top.
the bandsaw and sand the edges smooth. Apply a finish. (We sprayed three coats
Drill counterbores in the top edges of the
stretchers for figure-8 fasteners.
7 of matte lacquer.) Install the top using
figure-8 fasteners.

¾" counterbore
2 STRETCHER 1/8" deep 3 STRETCHER
1" TENON DETAIL
24" 3/8"
3/16"
4" 1" ¾" counterbore
3" 1/8" deep ¾ x 2" notch on mating stretcher
1"

R=1" 4" C C
3"
2"
25/8"
115/8"
¾"

3/16"
MATERIALS LIST
FINISHED SIZE *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
PART T W L
Matl. Qty. MATERIALS KEY: W–walnut, A–ash.
SUPPLIES: Figure-8 fasteners, #8×3∕4" flathead screws.
A LEGS 13∕8" 13∕8" 231∕4" W 4
BLADE AND BITS: Dado blade, 3∕4" round-over bit, 3∕4"
B* SOCK SIDES 3∕8" 13∕8" 51∕4" A 16 Forstner bit. (13∕8" Forstner bit and 1∕2" pattern bit needed
for rounded socks.)
C STRETCHERS 3∕4" 4" 24" W 2 SOURCES: Toggle clamps, no. GH-201-B (1 pair), $13,
D CORNER BLOCKS 3∕4" 23∕4" 51∕2" W 4 Amazon.com.
PROJECT COST: It cost us about $150 to build this project.
E TOP 3∕4" 20" 20" A 1 Your cost will vary by region and source.

woodmagazine.com 69
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Roll out the

barrel- rips
Jigsaws and multi-tools both prove useful for making
odd-shaped cuts, working with non-wood materials,
and more. Let’s take a look at two new tools in each
category that all share a common feature: a barrel-style
grip designed to position your hand closer to the
cutting line for greater control.

Two barrels of cutting capability

The Bosch GST18V-50B and the Ridgid
R86346 both offer the power needed to
cut through 2-by material plus the finesse for
fine scroll cuts in ¼" plywood. Both feature
adjustable speed, three-position orbital settings to
dial in cutting aggressiveness, plus switchable dust
blowers and dust-collection attachments. On-board
lights illuminate both saws’ cutting paths, and included
plastic base covers snap on to protect scratch-prone
materials. Bosch adds a removable dust shield and anti-splinter insert.
The Bosch saw runs smoothly and quietly. The barrel grip is a bit PHOTOGRAPHER: CARSON DOWNING
large for smaller hands, but remains easy to hold and control. This saw
dampens vibration very effectively. Thoughtful design puts all the
controls within easy reach.
A smaller-diameter barrel makes the Ridgid easy to grip, while the
kicked-up area in front of the battery creates a convenient resting
place for the heel of your hand. Lighter weight makes this saw
maneuver easily, but vibration and noise are more evident.
Bosch, boschtools.com
18-volt barrel-grip jigsaw, no. GST18V-50B, $159 (bare tool)
Ridgid, ridgid.com
18-volt barrel-grip jigsaw, no. R86346, $180 (bare tool)

70 continued on page 72 WOOD magazine | July 2024

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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Bosch multi-tool is a star(locking) performer
Pick up the Bosch GOP18V-34B12 and you
immediately notice its bulk. This tool feels substantial
and solid, but the large 21∕8"-diameter grip contributes
to hand fatigue during extended cuts.
Buying this multi-tool consigns you to using only
Bosch Starlock accessories (or purchasing an
aftermarket adapter to use the more-common
universal-fit blades). With this innovative attachment
mechanism, a star-shaped hole in the blades and
sanding pad snap onto a pair of small jaws on the tool
with no tools required. A release lever pops the pad
or blade free—a nice touch when a blade is hot after
extended use. Once you’re accustomed to the force
required to snap the accessories in place, the process
is fast and easy.
The 2-position power switch lights a work-
illuminating LED in the head at the first detent.
Another push forward turns on the brushless motor. A
Ryobi packs multipurpose capability soft-start motor prevents a sudden jerk when starting
the tool. The stiff on/off switch requires a firm push
into a compact package
and pull. Working one-handed in tight quarters
The Ryobi PBLMT51B proves a solid performer, and we required us to remove the tool from the area for
appreciate that it accepts pretty much any manufacturer’s sufficient leverage to switch it off.
blades or sanding pads. A pair of magnets in the base hold The tool comes with a 4 amp-hour battery, charger,
the accessory in place as you mount it until it’s secured with soft case, a selection of blades and a sanding pad,
the pin and locking lever; no tools are required. plus some sanding sheets. Optional depth-stop and
The brushless motor affords a slender body that allows dust collection attachments are available, with the
the tool to squeeze into spaces as narrow as 2¼". The rear of dust attachment requiring an additional adapter to
the body angles up for an easy, comfortable grip while connect with either a 1¼" or 1½" hose.
positioning the fairly long 18-volt battery above the blade
Bosch, boschtool.com
position for unobstructed flush cutting. Rubber over- 18-volt oscillating multi-tool, no. GOP18V-34B14, $250
molding provides a nonslip grip and feels good in your hand.
The power trigger squeezes easily with a conveniently
located lock-on button, but ridges around that button make
it unnecessarily difficult to operate. The variable-speed dial,
marked from 0-6, actually provides 25 rates of oscillation,
with the 0 position serving as a lock-out.
An LED lights up the area in front of the body when you
squeeze the trigger, but if you mount a blade at an angle to
the body, the LED won’t shine toward your work area.
And the LED works best with longer blades; it
falls short when using a sanding pad or a
semi-circular blade.
The tool comes with a plunge blade,
flush-cut blade and a sanding pad with
sandpaper. Sold as a bare tool, it works
with any Ryobi One+ 18-volt battery.
Ryobi, ryobitools.com
18-volt brushless multi-tool,
no. PBLMT51B, $129 (bare tool)

72 WOOD magazine | July 2024

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woodmagazine.com
WHAT'SAHEAD

should have in their collection.

The WOOD® editors identify the
handsaws that every woodworker
KEEP THESE HANDSAWS IN REACH

SWINGING SHEET-GOODS SHUTTLE

of plywood and a couple pieces of maple.

This handy hauler eases the trip from your
truck to the tablesaw. Build it from one sheet
wall-hogging
Dress up your

entertainment

for a sound bar.

TV SURROUND

center featuring
widescreen with
this storage-rich

integrated space
WALL OVERHAUL
A GLIMPSE INSIDE THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE (ON SALE JULY 5)

your bandsaw for

Trick out and tune up

perfectly resawn panels.

SET UP FOR RESAWING

Better Homes & Gardens® WOOD® magazine (ISSN-0743-894X); JULY 2024, Volume 41, no. 3, is published 7 times a year in March, May, July, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan by Meredith Operations Corporation, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, IA, and at additional mailing offices.
Subscription prices: $29.99 per year in the U.S.; $44.99 (U.S. dollars) in Canada; $49.99 (U.S. dollars) overseas. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES:

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delivery information is received within two years. ©Meredith Operations Corporation 2024. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
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shapertools.com/origin

WHERE
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MEETS
CRAFT Custom Templates

Mortise & Tenon

No computer programming required
Works alongside other shop tools
Portable and easy to store

Shaper Origin brings best-in-class portability and precision

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