Chapman 1974
Chapman 1974
type dye, has relatively high polarity. It gives greater Literature Cited
than 60% exhaustion from perchloroethylene in a 20 1. Anon, Guide to Solvent Processing Units, Knitting Times 41,
to 1 liquor ratio. (’I Disperse Blue 1 is a highly polar 47-53 (1972).
anthraquinone type dye which has very low solvent 2. Bird, C. L., Disperse Dyes on Hydrophobic Fibers,
J. Society
solubility. It will give about 90°~o exhaustion from Dyers Colorists 72, 343-351 (1956).
3. Jacobs, M. I., Role of Hydrophobic Bonding in the Contrac-
a 20 to 1 bath, but concentrated solutions in pure
tion of Nylon 66 in Phenolic Solutions, J. Applied Polymer
perchloroethylene are not possible. 1191-1199 (1969).
13,
Science
4. Nemoto, Yoshio, Dyeing of Wool and Nylon with Amine
Summary Complex Acid Dye from Organic Solvents, "Textile Solvent
Technology-Update ’73," American Association of Textile
The rate of sorption on nylon 6 film of the disperse Chemists and Colorists, pp. 58-64, 1973.
5. Patterson, D. and Sheldon, R. P., The Solubilities and Heats
dyes studied is somewhat greater from perchloro- of Solution of Disperse Dyes in Water, J. Society Dyers
ethylene than from trichloroethylene. The rate of Colorists 76, 178-181 (1960).
dyeing of nylon 6 film from these solvents is much 6. Perkins, W. S. and Hall, D. M., A Fundamental Study of the
lower than the rate of dyeing of polyester under similar Sorption from Trichloroethylene of Three Disperse Dyes on
conditions. The rate of dyeing from both solvents is 43, 115-120 (1973).
Polyester, Textile Research Journal
7. Perkins, W. S. and Hall, D. M., A Fundamental Comparison
very low at temperatures lower than the boiling point of the Utility of Trichloroethylene and Perchloroethylene
of the solvent. in the Application of Disperse Dyes to Polyester, "Textile
I’artition coetTicients of the dyes studied between Solvent Technology-Update ’73,"American Association of
Textile Chemists and Colorists, pp. 49-57, 1973.
perchloroethylene and nylon 6 film were higher for
more polar dyes. Few of the dyes studied have 8. Suchecki, S. M., The Rise and Decline of Solvent Dyeing,
Textile Industries 137, 76-77, 79-80, 85 (1973).
partition coeŒcients which would make exhaust dyeing 9. "Textile Solvent Technology-Update ’73," American Associa-
desirable. The possibility of synthesizing dyes or tion of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1973.
finding dyes which would have application to nylon 10. Vickerstaff, T., "The Physical Chemistry of Dyeing," New
from solvents does appear to exist. York, Interscience, 1954, p. 130.
11. Vickerstaff, T., "The Physical Chemistry of Dyeing," New
York, Interscience, 1954, p. 31.
Acknnwleclgmenls. This work was supported as 12. Vickerstaff, T., "The Physical Chemistry of Dyeing," New
Project A-033-Ala by Alabama’s V’ater Resources York, Interscience, 1954, p. 92.
Research Institute of Auburn University with funds 13. Weible, K. H. W. and Merminod, J. P., Levelling in Exhaust
from the OŒce of Water Resources Research of the Dyeing of Synthetic Polyamide, "Textile Solvent Tech-
Department of the Interior, by the Alabama Textile nology-Update ’73", American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists, pp. 178-184, 1973.
Education Foundation, and by the Auburn Engineering 14. Weigman, H. D., The Effects of Non-Aqueous Solvents on the
Experiment Station. The authors thank Messrs. Mechanical Properties of Textile Yarns, "Textile Solvent
James R. Williams, Alan R. Windham, and William Technology-Update ’73," American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists, pp. 24-35, 1973.
James I3riand, Jr., for their assistance with the
experiments. Afanuscript rec~ic~J July Z6, 1973.
ABSTRACT
The type of recovery behavior to be expected from a previously presented model for fabric bending and creasing is
examined. This model consists of a generalized linear viscoelastic element in parallel with a frictional element. The
linear viscoelastic element is characterized by the bending relaxation rigidity B
, T
A
t
( ), a function of relaxation time T
and absolute time t , and the frictional element by the frictional moment M
A . The model should be relevant to the
o
wrinkling and recovery of certain fabrics under constant conditions and under conditions of changing temperature and
relative humidity. Two examples of the application of this model are presented.
Introduction *
shown to be linear viscoelastic [3]. A model of as
The bending behavior of wool and nvion fibers in fabric [4] composed of such fibers has been presented
equilibrium with constant conditions of temperature and shown to behave as an anisotropic linear visco-
and relative humidity at low strains (< 1°~0) has been elastic sheet with an internal frictional moment. The
_
’
model can be represented ’diagrammatically as in
Figure 1 as linear viscoelastic (LVE) element in
a
parallel with
a frictional element. ’I’he LVh: is charac-
terized by a function B,(T), the &dquo;bending relaxation
rigidity&dquo; in any bending direction 9, which is equivalent
to the bending moment relaxation as a function of
relaxation time T which would be observed in the ab-
sence of friction for unit width of fabric bent
(in direc-
tion 9) to unit curvature. ’rhe frictional clement for
anv
bending direction 9 will in general give rise to a fric-
tional moment per unit fabric width which will depend
on curvature. In the present discussion, however, we
will assume it to be constant M&dquo;. In a limited study
this model has ben found to satisfactorily describe FIG. 2.Fabric model for the study of creasing under
changing
temperatureand RH conclitions, or when the nbers in the fabric
the recovery of wool fabrics and Terylenc fabrics ~8~ are m the
process of &dquo;aging.&dquo; A generalized linear viscoelastic
from creasing along the thread direction in the multiple element (GLVE) characterized hy bending relaxation rigidity
pleat tester.
’
.
~e(~A, ~~) acts in parallel with a constant frictional moment .1/&dquo;.
.
FIG. t. Fabric model for the study of creasing under constant where I is the fabric width and factor K/ ~ K ~I is the
temperature and RH conditions. A linear viscoelastic element
(LVE) characterized by &dquo;bending relaxation rigidity&dquo; function sign of the curvature change and indicates that any
B,(T) acts inparallel with a frictional element which gives rise to curvature change of the fabric is opposed by a frictional
a constant opposing frictional moment .B1&dquo;. moment Mo. We are interested in an experimental
sequence in which the fabric is subjected to a constant
crease deformation A&dquo; for a period of time
It has further been shown that during aging
(~~ or (bending
under conditions of changing temperature and relative
humidity [6] wool and nylon’fibers behave in bending
according to a generalized form of the linear theory
and are termed generalized linear viscoelastic ((’,I,VEi.
It was subsequently shown
~4] that a fabric model
composed of straight fibers which are CLVE in bending
and torsion will behave as an anisotropic (;,L~’E sheet
with an internal frictional moment (Fig. 2).
.
stress relaxation)after which the fabric is allowed to units and to fall 4)IT linciirln- from this viiuc at a rate
recover under zeromoment, i.e., M(t) _ (). During of R units pr decade. Thc constant frictional moment
recovery the linear viscoelastic element of Figure I is Mv for convenience is expressed as thc frictional factor
recovering against the constant moment M,. A nu- Mo/IBII and is shown as a fixed number of units in
merical method ~3~ for calculating this recovery has Figure 3. Recovery curves for any fabric with stress
been outlined previously. relaxation rat~ R and frictional factor Mil 1B0 are
liy way of illustration we will consider the behavior calculated for the fabric held creased for 0.1, 1, 10, 109,
of a fabric for which the relation between l3(T) and the 1()3, and 1()4 min. Recovery is expressed as percentage
logarithm of time is a straight line (Fig..3), although set (i.e. the percentage of the original curvature or
the present analysis is easily applicable to any shape of angle remaining in the fabric) at any time.
curve. (()ver a practical time range aged wool fabrics Relaxation rates of 4%, 8%, and 12% per decade
and Terytene fabrics approximate the straight lirtc were used together with values of Mil 1B11 equal to (), 5,
relationship fairly well (see I~ig. 9a).) For simpticity and 1() units, and the resulting nine famines of recovery
we take the value of IS (7’) at 0.1 min to be 1()() arbitrary curves are shown in Figure 4.
FIG. 4. Recovery curves for the fabric model of Figure ! I (I:cluation 1), with values of stress relaxation rate and frictional factor as
shown. Recovery, expressed as residual percentage set, is plotted against log time of recovery (’reasing times used were 10--’, 1, 10,
103, 10’, 1()4 min. In each graph the curves are in order from the lowest curve, which corresponds to the shortest creasing time, to the
highest curve for the longest creasing time. Points shown are calculated from the simple approximate expression (Equation 3).
aging time. (The dotted line shows the level of frictional factor
[13~, who considered that an equilibrium set which used with these curves to predict the theoretical curves of Figure
increased with creasing time necessarily implied plastic 10.)
flow occurring within the fibers. However, if plastic
flow does occur it will be difficult to distinguish from Figure 6 shows the situation when A = 1. V’e have
the frictional effect shown. let the stress relaxation modulus for stress relaxation
time 10-’ min have a value of 1(X) units at aging 1,4 10 =
MODEL 2. Calculations. We will now examine the min. In all cases creasing was assumed to be carried
behavior of the second model as it relates to the out at IA 10 min. The relaxation rate R was
=
of aging. The equation for the second maintained at 8 units per decade of relaxation time for
phenomenon all the calculations.
model [4] for constant frictional moment is given by
Figure 7 shows several families of recovery cuves.as stress relaxation nor the resultant recovery behavior has
before with each family corresponding to creasing times been observed for any aging fiber system so far ex-
of 10-1 to 104 min. Values of the aging rate .1 in- amined. For the particular case of aging single wool
vestigated were 1 and 10 decades/decade and values of fibers where bending stress relaxation moduli are
M&dquo;/Ko were 0 and 5 units. All curves of Figure 4 cor- sigmoidal in shape, as shown previously in Figure 5,
respond to a value of t 0, and so the center column
=
the predicted and observed recovery [5] tend to level
of graphs of this array of graphs (where R 8 units/ = off above zero set but do not reverse direction.
decade) may be compared directly with Figure 7. It will be immediately obvious from Equations 3 and
4 below that hypothetical forms of the function Z~(~, T)
can be proposed which will give rise to permanent set,
Results. From Figures 4 and 7 it is obvious that the negative set, and as above, to recoverv curves which
greater the aging A, the poorer will be the fabric
rate reverse direction. However, it may well be that some of
recovery. Furthemiore, it is of considerable interest these hypothetical functions are physicallv impossible.
to note thatin the absence of friction a minimum occurs The effect of friction on Model 2 is much the same
in the recovery curve such that recovery actually be- as for Model 1, except that any reversals in direction of
comes worse with further recovery time. ’This phe- recovery are masked. However, in such cases it is
nonemon results from the particular straight line
possible for the recovery to cease for a period of time
relation we have chosen between B(IA, T) and the and then recommence in either the positive or negative
’
l~tc. 7. Recovery curvesfor the fabric model of Figure 2 (Equation 2), with stress relaxation rate R - 8 units/decade, and aging
rate A and frictional factor .tl&dquo;/Ito as shown. Recovery is plotted as in Figure 4 for the same creasing times. Points shown are calcu-
lated from the simple approximate expression (Equation 4).
The
Analytical Approximations operate in the classical sense. Certain finishing treat-
where 1A is the absolute time at which the step strain Requirements for Good Crease Recovery
was imposed. The error involved in the above ex- An alternative approach such as the one employed
I>ressicms for most relaaaticm functions of interest was
shown to be very small. Values of ~’ for Moolel 1 by Skelton E16-20] might be used to advantage to
relate single fiber recovery to fabric recovery where
were recaicutated using.
Equation 3 for a stress relava- condition (i) (above) prevails. However, since this
tion tihie of 1(r’ min and are shown as points in Figure 4.
method gives no indication of time effects, single fiber
For Model 2 the predictions of Equation 4 are shown
in Figure 7 for a stress relaxation time of 1(N) min. bending and torsional recovery behavior must be
It is obvious from the very close agreement with the independently determined over u wide range of strains,
stress relaxatic>n times, and recovery times.
computed results that these simple approximate expires-
sions are sutlicientlv tccurate for most purposes.
’I’he results above suggest several ways in which a
fabric could 1>e designed to obtain good crease recovery.
Determination of B(r) and B(th T)
Firstly, the rate of stress relaxation R should be as low
It is generally necessary only to determine the shape as possible. Apart from choosing a fiber type or a
of the function R, since recovery from a fiwd deforma- blend of fibcrs which meets this criterion, a purely
tion is not dependent on the magnitude of this function elastic stit~tening mechanism might be added to the
when the frictional factor M&dquo;/li~ is left as a fitting fabric to increase the function fj by a constant amount
parameter. The fabric bending relaxation rigidity may (e.g., the blending of 1>urely elastic fibers). ’rhis would
be determined from first principles in terms of single be equivalent to adding a spring in parallel with the
fiber bending and torsional stress relaxation moduli E4] (ii,k’E element and would then effectively reduce the
or by fabric
bending stress relaxation experiments ~7~ percentage rate of relaxation.
if M,/K is small. Yarn bending experiments ~7~ and
experiments in which crimped yarns extracted from a By careful setting techniques [12~ it has been shown
fabric [8] have been partially uncrimped in tension how the frictional moment M&dquo; may be reduced, and
vield stress reltxation curves which are proportional to this will lead to an appropriate improvement in wrinkle
the function 13 in warp or weft directions. ’I’hese recovery. Another way of reducing the effective value
methods are discussed more fully elsewhere ~8~. of M&dquo; is by increasing the magnitude of 13 in comparison
(e.g., by using thicker fibers so long as fiber strains do
Limitations of the Theory not become eacessive). Such a stiffening of the fabric
will give the added advantage of greater resistance to
In certain cases the theory presented may not be wrinkling.
strictly applicable. Deviations will occur if: (i) the
fibers are not linear viscoelastic in the standard or A low is obviously desirable, since fabrics
aging rate
generalized sense. This may be inherent nonlinearity are subjected to relative humidity and temperature
or may result from fiber strains which are out of the - ----~
FIG. 8. A undesirable situation is shown where Equation 1 was used with the relavation function of
.
hypothetical
the equilibrium level of B (at long relaxation times) increases
with increasing absolute (or aging) time.
Figure 9(a) to predict the recovery curves (solid lines)
, in Figure 9(b). The frictional factor was left as a
fitting parameter, and the value of M o! K shown 0
~ Fic. 10. (a). Wrinkle recovery points for a worsted fabric aged 10 min and wrinkled for 1 min El - 10 min O ; and 100 min X. (See
Ref. [l1J) Solid curves are theoretical predictions from Equation 2 using the single fiber stress relaxation curves of Figure 5 and the
frictional factor level shown dotted; (h). As for Figure 10 (a) but fabric, aged 100 min; (c). As for Figure 10 (a), hut fabric aged 1000
min.