1 x 3D printed case:
1 x PCB design:
1 x Arduino Nano Clone (QFN package):
1 x 0.49" i2c OLED Display:
1 x TP4056 Module:
1 x HC-06 Module (Only SMD board):
1 x 3.7V LiPo Battery 100mAh:
1 x Mirror:
1 x Fresnel Lens:
1 x XC6206 3.3V Regulator:
1 x SI2302 MOSFET:
0603 Resistors:
0603 100nF capacitor:
16Mhz Crystal 3231:
SMD passive buzzer:
FTDI external programmer:
glasses
Part 1 - Part list
Ok, let me show you the parts we need. You will need the PCB, of
course, the HC06 Bluetooth module in the SMD version, the small
OLED display of 0.46", a small LiPo battery of 100mAh and for the
charging circuit, you can take all the components ouf of a TP4056
module. The ICs, the resistos and capacitors and even the USB
connector could be used from a module if you don't want to buy all
the components separately. Then, for the ATmega328 module, you
could take it out from an Arduino NANO clone, in that way you
make sure it works and t has a bootloader. Make sure the Arduino
clonse is using a QFN package for the ATMega chip. In the same
way, you could also desolder the CH340 IC from the back and
solder it to you PCB. Together with these components you will need
my design of the case so downlaod it and print it out with PLA
material. You will also nee some sort of mirror and a plastic fresnell
lens. You can buy those for cheap from the internet. All links are
below in the part list. So, this is all we need. I've took the small
ressitors, the capacitors and the 16Mhz crystal from the Arduino
clone. If you want, you can buy all those separately from the links
below.
1 x 3D printed case: 3D case LINK
1 x PCB design: GERBERs LINK
1 x Arduino Nano Clone (QFN package): LINK eBay
1 x 0.49" i2c OLED Display: LINK eBay
.
.
SEE FULL PART LIST
Part 2 - Schematic
On this PCB we have, the ATmega328 microcontroller, the TP4056
charging IC because this will be portable so it needs a battery. As
input, I have a micro-B USB connector. Then we have two sets of
pads. Ones are for the OLED display i2c communication and these
other pads are for the UART port. And on the back, we have a
buzzer for sound notifications and an FTDI programmer, the
CH340, so we could program the board with the USB cable. We
also have pads for an HC-06 Bluetooth module. And that’s it. I’ve
made my schematic and this below is the final version. But I forgot
to add a switch, so this PCB would be always on if the battery is
connected. I’ll add the switch for the future version. I pass to PCB
and decide where to place each component and I try to make the
PCB as small as possible.
Part 3 - The PCB
The PCB design is ready and looks quite good. So I download the
GERBER file and go to PCBWAY.com which is the sponsor of my
project. I select quote now., and by the way, if you create a new
account, you get a 5 dollars coupon. I insert the width and height of
my PCB and select a quantity of 10 PCBs which will cost me only 5
dollars plus shipping. I leave it at 2 layers and I select a black
solder-mask. I click calculate. I select shipping to Spain and an e-
packet shipping method. Then I save to cart. Here I click the “add
gerber” button and select the GERBER file I’ve previously
downloaded and you have that .zip file below. Once uploaded I click
submit order and in just a few days I receive my PCBs from
PCBWAY. I make a quick inspection and they all look quite well.
Download PCB GERBER files
Part 4.1 - Solder the PCB
Is time to solder all the components but you must follow an order.
First, solder the ATMEAG328 microcontroller, the R7 resistor, the
crystal clock and the R4 resistor, and the C3 DTR capacitor of
100nF. You have all these values on the schematic above. This is
the basic configuration of the ATMEGA chip, so once soldered,
connect and external FTDI programmer to the UART port pads.
Then upload a test sketch and see if it works, see example code
below. I usually upload a counter so when I open the serial monitor,
I should see the counter value. That means the IC works so we can
solder the rest.
int x = 0;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop() {
Serial.println(x);
x++;
delay(1000);
}
Part 4.2 - Solder the rest
Once we have all the components, since I now have the FTDI
programmer in place, I could upload the code directly with the USB
cable without using the external programmer. And on the i2c pads, I
solder the tiny OLED screen with some thin wires. I upload a test
code and as you can see below the OELD display works but we
also need the Bluetooth connection. You must use an HC-05 to
send the data because the HC-06 can only work in slave mode.
Part 5.1 - HC06 and HC05
Communication
To make a connection between the HC-05 and the HC-05 you have
two options. Make the HC-05 connect to any module that it finds
around, or make it connect to a specific module. I select the first
option because is easier and faster. Upload an empty sketch to the
Arduino first. We need to set the HC-05 module as master. For
that make the connections below between the module and the
Arduino. Power on the HC.05 module while pressing the enable
button you have on the tiny PCB of the module and you will se the
LED blinking long. That means we are into AT mode. Then open
the serial monitor in the Arduino IDE. Select the baud rate of 38400.
Type AT and press enter. If you get an OK response, we are good
to go.
Part 5.2 - Set HC05 as master
First type AT+ROLE=1, in order to set the HC-05 module to be a
master. You should get an OK response. Then
type AT+CMODE=1, so we make the HC-05 module to connect to
any other Bluetooth module it finds around, in this case, the HC-06
module we have on our PCB. The master Bluetooth is ready. Just
make sure the password of the HC-06 is the same as the password
of the HC-05, which usually is 1234. If not, you can
type AT+PSWD="1234" and press enter. And to check if that’s
correct, type AT+PSWD? and press enter and you should get the
response 1234.
Part 5.3 - HC05 HC06 communication
Ok, I now upload a code to my Arduino and send the data from the
potentiometer using the Serial.print function. I power on both parts
and wait a few seconds. The LED of the module will stop blinking so
the connection is made. And as you can see, I now get the data
from the potentiometer to my small OLED screen. Remember to
change back the RX and TX wires to RX-TX and TX-RX from the
HC05 to the Arduino. We only had RX-RX and TX-TX for the AT
mode.
A. Transmitter code
int pot = A0;
void setup() {
pinMode(pot, INPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop() {
float val = map(analogRead(pot),0, 1024, 0, 500);
val = val/100; //Calculate voltage value from 0.0 to 5.0 volts
Serial.print("V"); //First we print "V" for voltage
Serial.println(val); //Then the value from the potentiometer
delay(100); //Small delay
}
B. Receiver code
#include <SPI.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h> //download here:
https://www.electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_Adafruit_GFX.php
#include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h> //downlaod here:
https://www.electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_Adafruit_SSD1306.php
#define OLED_RESET 5
Adafruit_SSD1306 display(OLED_RESET);
int BT = 8; //Pin connected to the Bluetooth Mosfet
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(BT,OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(BT,HIGH); //Turn on the Bluetooth MOSFET
display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C); // initialize with the I2C
addr 0x3C (for the 32x32 from eBay)
delay(100);
display.clearDisplay();
display.setTextSize(2);
display.setTextColor(WHITE);
display.display();
delay(100);
}
void loop() {
if(Serial.available() > 0){
char type = Serial.read();
if(type == 'V'){ //Detect if we receive volts
float volt = Serial.parseFloat(); //Get the received value
display.clearDisplay(); //Clean previous screen
display.setCursor(32,32); //X / Y
display.print(" Volt"); //Print "volts" tag
display.setCursor(32,48); //X / Y
display.print(volt); //Print the received value
display.display(); //Display everything
}
}
}
Part 6 - Multimeter Communication
Example
I can do the same with my old project of the multimeter. Remember
it had this UART port on the back for a Bluetooth module. I solder
the HC-05 module there and upload a new code. By the way, all the
codes for these projects are below. This new code will
use Serial.print to send the values for voltage, resistance,
capacitance, inductance and current via Bluetooth. And as you can
see, once again I get those values on my small screen. I can
change the meter in resistance mode and measure a resistor for
example. As you can see, we get the same value on the small
screen using Bluetooth connection.
Part 7.1 - Multimeter Code
Solder the HC05 module to the multimeter PCB. Go below and get
the new version of the Multimeter code. Make sure you also check
my old project of the multimeter. This new code will still print the
values on the OLED display but also send the same data with
Bluetooth connection. All we have to do is to get the receiver code
and upload it to the smart glasses PCB and receive the data. So
once you uplaod the multimeter code from below, go and see the
receiver code.
New Multimeter Code
Part 7.2 - Smart Glasses Code
Get the full code from below. You would need the OLED libraries as
well. You will see that the first thing thew code dose is to power up
D8, which is the pin connected to the Bluetooth module MOSFET,
so now the HC06 is powered on. Then we start the OLED display
and prine hello. In the void loop we check for a serial
communication. If we receive something from the Bluetooth moduel,
we first check if is a "V" a "A" a "R" and so on, in order to detect if
we receive values for voltage, current, resistance and so on. Then
we use the Serial.parseFloat() function to get the numeric value.
This fucntion will automatically separate the float number from the
text values that we receive. That's it, next we print the value on the
tiny OLED screen.
Smartglasses Code
Smartglasses code part
if(Serial.available() > 0){ //Detect if we receive
something
char type = Serial.read(); //If we receive a "V" then
the value is for voltage.
if(type == 'V'){
float volt = Serial.parseFloat(); //Using parseFloat we get
only the float value after the "V"
display.clearDisplay();
display.setCursor(32,32); //X / Y
display.print(" Volt");
display.setCursor(32,48); //X / Y
if(volt < 0 ){
volt = volt * -1;
}
display.print(volt);
display.display();
}
Part 8.1 - Mount the case
Is time to make a case. I first made some tests with a cardboard
box. You see, the easiest way would be to solder the screen just in
front of your eye. But in that way, is impossible for our eyes to focus
that close. That’s why we need to place the screen far away. But
then the picture would be too small. I’ve design and 3D printed a
case for this project, which I’m pretty sure I could improve a bit. So
this case will have the screen on the far back, a mirror on the front
at 45º angle and then a small Fresnell lens and finally a plexiglass
in front of you eye. In that way the picture is enlarged and pointed
towards your glasses. The case could attatch to the frame of those
glasses.
Downlaod 3D case STL files
Part 8.2 - Add PCB and the rest
I place the PCB inside and check If I can connect the USB
connector. I add double side tape on the far back of the case and I
glue the small screen. Then I also add some double side tape
where the mirror will go. I cut a small rectangle of mirror. I glue that
mirror with 45 degrees angle and as you can see, we now have the
picture from the screen. At the output, I cut a small Fresnell lens
and glue it in place as well. I now close the top part of the case and
as you can see below, we have the picture from the screen at the
output. Pretty nice, right?
Part 8.3 - Test the smart glasses
I add a small screw at the tip of the case. On this screw I glue a
small pelxiglass that will reflect that light from the OLED display
towards our eyes. And this project is complete. Place the case over
your glasses and adjust the reflection glass so you can see the
screen inside. Turn on the multimeter and wait for it to connect.
Select the mode, for example capacitance and measure a
capacitor. And there you go, we have the value on our smart
glasses.
