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GRUB PREVENTION GUIDE 2020

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By Allyn Hane “The Lawn Care Nut”

www.thelawncarenut.com
Introduction 3

When I worked for TruGreen back in the late 1990s and 2000s, The good news is though, you can prevent damage to your
I got a lot of experience with grubs. From Iowa to Illinois and lawn in 2020 quite easily and it only takes one single
Indiana and over to Ohio, I’ve seen many lawns destroyed by application to get it done. It’s one and done each year and the
them. VERY best time to apply is coming up here in the spring.

Here is a video from 10 years ago that I shot on my iPhone 3. The other good news here is that grub control is not a
This was a lawn in NW Indiana - an area about 10,000 sq ft product that can very easily “burn” the lawn or damage it
completely destroyed: even if you over-apply so for a beginner, it’s good “training
wheels.”

If you are just starting out and learning to spread products

via a spreader - this is an approachable way to learn.

That said, don’t over-apply on purpose. We are going to read

the labels together below and work out the strategy so you
won’t do that anyway… but I always have to make sure I have
that disclaimer in here: I’m not telling you to over-apply. What I
am telling you though, is not to fear the product.

This guide is written for all grass types.

I’m predicting that 2020 will be a pretty bad year for them
The products below can be used on: Kentucky Bluegrass,
across most of the US. That’s because of the very mild winter.
perennial ryegrass, Fescue, turf type tall fescue, Zoysia,
Grubs can survive winter but literally, only the strong survive bermuda (hybrid too), centipede, St Augustine, and Bahia.
in harsh winters. On the flip side, all of the grubs survive in a
Do not fear burning your lawn with these applications.
mild winter - and that is what we are coming out of.
Lifestyle of the Grub 4

Lifestyle of the Grub: Most of their feeding (and thus lawn damage) is over. They
Grubs are not actually a worm. The term “grub worm” is just did the majority of their feeding last year in fall in order to
searched a lot online so that’s why we use it. I personally think fatten up for winter. Grubs do feed some in spring but usually
they look like little milky shrimp, but they are not from the it is not enough to cause any visible damage to the lawn.
sea, either.
That is because your turf is ramping up its growth as the days
Grubs are the larval stage of June bugs. get warmer and longer and can pretty much grow through
Here is a video I made that explains their lifecycle: any final feeding the grubs are doing.

This means that any grubs that are in your lawn right now in
early spring - they are last year’s crop and are about to grow HOWEVER, you still need to apply a grub preventative in the
up to full maturity and fly out of your lawn sometime in May, spring. The products I recommend will have very little effect if
June, or July this year. any on those grubs that are there from last year. Instead, it is
designed to kill their babies!
Lifestyle of the Grub 5

You see, all those grubs, when they fly out of your lawn as June bugs
(also known as Japanese beetles and Chafer beetles) in spring, they are
going to lay eggs and start the cycle all over again - and those eggs
will be laid in your lawn. Guaranteed.

So your job is to apply a preventative in the mid-spring BEFORE all this

happens - so that way, when those new grubs hatch, they die.

Summary

If you find grubs in your lawn this spring - those are from last year -
they are about to change and emerge as June bugs. Their feeding now
will cause little visible damage.

You do however, still want to apply a “Grub Preventative” and that will
stop the next generation that is going to be laid in the lawn this
summer.

Before You Start - Measure Your Lawn:

Watch this video and make yourself a property map. Even if you just
hand draw something simple - that will work!

We don’t need to get too fancy here - instead, get a basic

understanding of the areas of your lawn and how they lay out.

For this guide, I am applying product to a 2,500 sq. ft. area of my lawn.
Grub Prevention 6

Grub Prevention Scotts GrubEx:

The active ingredient in this product is chlorantraniliprole and
We will be applying an insect control called “Scotts GrubEx”
it is very effective in preventing grub damage to the lawn. It’s
and our goal will be to protect your turf from the larvae of
considered a reduced risk pesticide and is also safe for bees
June bugs called “grubs.” I’m recommending this product
(reference).
because:
1. It’s available at every hardware store and Walmart in the This product does take a little longer to get into the plants
country so we can all literally be on the same page! and provide protection, so applying anytime in March or early
April is recommended. It has a residual of 5-6 months.
2. It works.
3. It isn’t going to harm your lawn if you make a mistake. The key to success once you get it applied is watering it into
the soil where it will come in contact with the turf’s roots.
That said, here is the exact product I am using. Again, you can Remember, grubs feed on turf roots and products that
get this just about everywhere. protect the turf then must get to the roots.

The product therefore must be watered in and this one takes

quite a bit. But that is also going to pay off for you because it
will force you to learn how to irrigate properly. More on that
below!

Read The Simple Labeling:

On the back of the bag are the instructions for use and they
are super easy. I am using a Scotts spreader and chances are
you will too. It’s another one of those items that you can get
at any store in America.
Grub Prevention 7

The recommended setting for a Scotts spreader is 3 ½ . That The Fun Math:
should allow the product to flow out at the proper rate as you The bag I have is 14.35 lbs and tells me it covers 5,000 sq. ft.
walk. Now we just need to know how much to load in the Now in lawn care, we talk in the language of “1,000 sq. ft.
spreader and that is where your property map comes in. increments/sections.”

For me, I chose an area that is 2,500 sq. ft. to serve as an What that means is that everything we talk about as far as
example for you. “how much to put down” is measured on the basis of 1,000 sq.
ft. areas or sections.

In this case, the bag covers 5,000 sq. ft. or 5 sections of 1,000
sq. ft. each. Follow?

Now we are going to do a little math here, but I promise, it’s But I don’t have 5,000 sq ft, and I don’t have 1,000 sq. ft. either.
not difficult. You can get it if you try, I know you can! I have 2,500 so how do I know how much I need?

You’re much smarter than you think and that’s why I give you Well, simple “common core” math says if the bag covers 5,000
sq. ft. and I have half of that (I have 2,500) then I should need
all the messy math because I know that after you apply, you’ll
half the bag and I’m good to go right?
get it.
Grub Prevention 8

Answer: right! (go throw down if you choose!)

But let’s do some “old school math” just to double check.

Bag weight: 14.35 lbs

Coverage: 5,000 sq. ft.

From these two pieces of data, we can then conclude that the product
is designed to be applied at a rate of 2.87 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.

Remember, I told you that we always talk in 1,000 sq. ft. increments/
sections right?

We have 5 of those “1,000 sq. ft. sections” we can cover with this bag so
therefore: 14.35/5 = 2.87

So the “application rate” of this product is 2.87 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. But
how many “1,000 sq. ft. sections” do I have?

Answer: 2.5 (because my area to be treated is 2,500 sq. ft.)

So for my application I would need 7.17 lbs of Scotts GrubEx to cover

my 2,500 sq. ft. section of lawn. 2.87 x 2.5 = 7.17 lbs
Thanks for playing along and reading all that. I did
Which just happens to be exactly half the bag. that exercise because I want you to have confidence
in your application.
One more trick, the back of the bag actually gives you this math
without all the brain strains, look:
Grub Prevention 9

Now that you got through it, if you have a 2,500 sq. ft. area to Step 1 - Trim Pass
treat, it’s perfectly fine to “eyeball measure” half the bag out Your spreader may have an edge guard but for this
into your spreader and go apply. application I don’t want you to use it. That just adds another
level of questions. It’s easier to just go out and throw down
Just do the best you can to get ½ the bag into the hopper, set and since this is an insect control, there is no fear of either
the spreader on 3.5 and go. Here are some tips on how to burning the lawn, or striping it if you go light or heavy. This is
actually apply the product: a great way to learn so pay attention as you go.
I’m working with a pie shaped area so I have sketched my Failsafe: I want to ease your mind. Remember, you have
plan out and will explain it in the next 4 steps. measured your lawn space and loaded just enough product
into your spreader to hit that area. If you come up light or
heavy, it will be ok. You don’t have enough in the hopper to
do any damage to begin with. Make sense?

So get out there and go, you’ll be fine.

Generally speaking, the Scotts broadcast spreader is going

to throw product out 2.5 - 3 ft on the left and another 2.5 - 3 ft
to the right. If you walk faster it will throw wider/further and if
you walk slower it will throw not as far.

The walk speed I recommend you go with is a “purposeful

walk” like you have somewhere to be.
Grub Prevention 10

Look at the end of your run and walk with a purpose to get Step 2 - First Inside Pass
there, airman! That’s what the DIs would say to us in basic Now your next pass should be set up so that you are throwing
training at Lackland, “Walk with a purpose Airman!” product back to the wheel marks of your previous (trim) pass.
It’s critical that you keep the same walking speed on this pass
Which literally translated as “get to where you are going but
as you utilized on the previous. The walking speed you chose
don’t be looking like you’re in a hurry either, keep your from the beginning is the walking speed you need to
military bearing!” maintain from pass-to-pass!
I’ve described the walk speed as a “double fast walk” or I’d say After you do this just a few times, you will have a muscle
to you “put some ass into it” kind of walk.
memory of the walk speed and you will not have to think
Your first pass will edge out the entire space like I show below. about it again - unless you have a long winter off, then you’ll
As you go, pay attention to the throw on left and right. If find that you are a little rusty the next season but it comes
some product gets onto the driveway that’s ok - you will back to you quickly.
broom/blow this back into the lawn at the end.
Grub Prevention 11

This drawing is not to scale, but it is meant to illustrate how

the process looks. You will be watching mostly left in this
scenario to see that you are throwing prills to the wheel tracks
of the previous pass which should be about 2.5 - 3 ft.
Remember, keep that walk speed consistent!

When you hit the end of the run, shut off the spreader (close
the opening with the lever) as you see prills hitting the wheel
tracks from that end pass as well… doesn’t have to be perfect
- just eyeball it and shut off so that nothing sprays over into
the neighbor’s lawn or whatever else is on the other side of
your property.

Step 3 - Pass after Pass

From here it’s logical to make the final few passes. Your job
here is to observe the amount being thrown out of the
hopper as you see it getting more and more empty on each
successive pass.

Does it seem to you like it’s coming out at a rate that is

consistent with the area you have treated? No need to make
any adjustments, just be observant. Chances are though, you
will be fine!
Grub Prevention 12

Step 4 - What Did You Learn? That means ½” will go down right directly after your
So when you are all done make a few notes. application finishes, and the second ½” will go down in the
next day or two.
Do you have any product leftover? A little is fine but if you
had a half pound or more then consider if your walk speed Maybe you will get some rain help too but definitely get it all
changed during the run (I get tired too!) or maybe your watered in within a few days -- remember, if it doesn’t get to
overlap was not consistent. the roots it will not be effective and the June bugs are
already out and flying around!
Go back to the lawn and look at your wheel tracks. Are they
evenly spaced from run to run? Tuna Can Challenge
If all that checks out then perhaps you’ll want to open up the I love challenging people to this one. The idea comes from
setting a click on the next area you try and see how that turns back when I worked at TruGreen I’d always tell people to
out for you. “water your lawn ½ inch every 2-3 days in summer to keep it
green.”
Key is, I already know you’ll be able to figure it out after just
this first experience. It’s that simple once you get out there. I I’d then tell them, “set up your sprinkler, set an empty tuna
hope you are confident at this point and ready to roll! can out there in the stream and when you can measure ½
inch of water in that tuna can, you know it’s time to move
Watering It In your sprinkler to the next section.”
Now the next step is to get the product watered in. This
product requires 1 full inch of water to get it into the soil and The funny thing about it is, in the 15 years I worked at
in a form where the roots can take it in. TruGreen, and the thousands of customer lawns I visited
during that time, I never one time saw a tuna can on a lawn.
That’s quite a bit to do in one setting, so you can split it up
But I’m still issuing the challenge! Tweet me a picture of your
over 2 days and in fact, I recommend you do that.
#TunaCanChallenge if you dare!
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Now for the purpose of this guide, I want you to learn this so If you have an automatic irrigation system, you can also take
you can get this grub application properly watered in, the Tuna Can Challenge:
however, going forward, you can take this same knowledge
with you and apply it to your normal summer watering.

If you have to do this manually, then it takes a little more time

and I recommend you go with an impact sprinkler.

Here is a fun video where I take the Tuna Can Challenge:

Alternative Product - Bio-Advanced Grub:

If for some reason you cannot find the Scotts GrubEx, then
chances are you will find the Bio-Advanced product that I am
finding here in Florida.

This product will work just as well for preventing grub

(this is a fun project to do with your kids) damage, it just uses a different active ingredient and should
be applied later in the season.
Grub Prevention 14

Let’s look at the label on this one quick:

In this case, the active ingredient is imidacloprid and I would

not recommend using this if you have bees buzzing on
flowers in your yard.

However, if you do not have any flowering weeds in your

And if you read the labeling on the back of the bag, this is
lawn, this one will be fine (this one can have an effect on bees confirmed.
so that’s why).

If you have a grub preventative product with imidacloprid,

apply that in late May or early June. It will last about 3-4
months.

Here is a video I did recently talking about the two different

products (active ingredients) we are using in this guide.
Grub Prevention 15

Remember, I have 2,500 sq. ft. and that is exactly half Water It In
the bag so you can just dump half the bag in the This product also must be watered in but it only takes ½” of water for
spreader and go to town just like I talked about this one - not the full inch. I recommend you still go through all the
above. watering exercises (Tuna Can Challenge) above and get your grub
application watered in as soon as you can!
Only difference here is that you set the spreader on
setting 5 for this product. That is probably because It Contains Fert
the size of the granules on this product are larger This Bio-Advanced product also contains some fertilizer (hence the
than the Scotts GrubEx but that the end of the day, “revitalizer” language on the bag) so we can get a little pop of green
it’s the same. The bag covers 5,000 sq. ft. and for my when using it. It also gives me an excuse to help you work some
section, I need half of that. Nitrogen “pounds on the ground” math.
The product has a 6-0-1 analysis for fertilizer (this product is an “insect
Review all the steps/training on applying above (the control with fertilizer” type product).
sketches) and you will be good to go!
The numbers on the bag, 6-0-1 stand Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and
Here is a video where I put down this product on Potassium.
2,500 sq. ft.:
We care mostly about the Nitrogen and the number 6 tells you that 6%
of everything in the bag is Nitrogen.

We are applying 2.4 lbs of actual product per 1,000 sq. ft. Remember
way up top I told you that everything we do is in 1,000 ft. increments.

So that 2.4 pounds of this product that we are spreading across each
1,000 sq. ft. area of our lawn also contains 6% Nitrogen. 2.4 x .06 = .144
Get A Full Lawn Plan 16

That means we are also getting .144 lbs of Nitrogen across Get A Full Lawn Plan
each 1,000 sq. ft. area as we throw down.
Are you ready for a full on step-by-step lawn plan? If you are,
That’s not much but it is enough to give you a little boost of get your cool season guide here, or your warm season guide
green and provide you with yet another experience of what here.
it’s like to see a lawn green up after an application.

Note: Scotts GrubEx does not contain any fertilizer and will We will also send you an invite to our private FaceBook group
not provide a visual response to the lawn. where you can interact with other Lawn Care Nuts who are
working along with my program.
What’s Next?
Here’s where you sit as of now: Here you can share your lawn challenges and triumphs as well
1. You have made your first granular application to a small as connect with other lawn care enthusiasts.
section of your lawn. Good work!
a. Next, if you have other areas of your lawn that you did I’ll see you in the lawn!
not treat yet, repeat the process above for those areas
and gain even more experience

b. Learn your land in the process.

2. You have your irrigation ready for the rest of summer
which is important!
a. All that Tuna Can stuff - make notes on the position of
the sprinkler and how long it had to be in that spot.
This way you won’t need to calculate this part again.

b. Start giving your lawn at least 1” of water per week and

when it gets really hot, water 1.5” per week.