Experiment-2: Study of Starter and Bendix drive,

Aim: To know the principle of working of starting system, starters and bendix drive used in
automotive vehicles
Apparatus: Lead acid battery, starters, multimeter, and workshop hand tools.

Theory and Practice:

The starting system converts electrical energy from the batteries into mechanical energy to turn
the engine. A fault in the starting system will not crank the engine.
For servicing the starting system, one needs to understand how it works. The starting system
has five main components: the ignition switch, a neutral safety switch (optional in some
motorcycles), the starter solenoid, the starter motor, and the battery as shown in the Fig.S-1.

Fig. S-1 Starting system and starter

motor

How the starter works

When the ignition key is turned to the start position, current flows and energizes the starter's
solenoid coil. The energized coil becomes an electromagnet which pulls the plunger into the
coil, the plunger closes a set of contacts which allow high current to reach the starter motor. The
plunger pushes the starter pinion to mesh with the teeth on the flywheel or gear mounted on the
crankshaft.
When the engine starts, the driver releases the ignition key from the start position, stopping the
flow of current to the solenoid. The plunger is pulled out of contact with the battery-to-starter
cables by a coil spring, and the flow of electricity is interrupted to the starter. This weakens the
magnetic fields and the starter ceases its rotation. As the solenoid plunger is released, its
movement also pulls the starter pinion from its engagement with the engine flywheel.
The main parts of the conventional starter are shown in Fig.S-2.
Solenoid: The solenoid assembly (Fig.S-3) is an integral part of the starter and is actually a
combined relay and engagement solenoid. The starter solenoid connects the battery to the
starter motor. The solenoid has two functions:
• Pushing the pinion forward so that it engages in the ring gear of the engine.
• Closing the moving contact, providing the main current path for the starter.
The solenoid has two windings.
 Solenoid
Field coil

Carbon brush

Drive lever

Drive
housing

Brush
spring

Yoke

Armature

Pinion gear Starter clutch

Fig.S-2: Parts of conventional starter

motor
• Pull-in winding • Holding-in winding
Both windings are used to draw in the plunger and engage the pinion, only the hold-in winding is
used to hold the plunger in position.
Brushes: Brushes are electrically conductive sliding contacts, usually made of copper and
carbon. The brushes make contact with the commutator and as the starter begins to rotate the
brushes reverse the flow of current to the armature. Starter brushes carry the full flow of current
through the motor. The brushes and commutator connect the field coil windings with the
armature windings in series. The end view of the armature and brushes mounted on
commutator are shown in Fig.S-4.

Core
Armature
Shaft

Brush
Coil
Commutator
Commutator
Fig.S-5
Fig.S-4 Brushes on
commutator
Armature

Armature: The Armature assembly is comprised of the armature shaft, armature winding,
armature stack and commutator. Thin iron stampings are laminated together to form the stack or
core. The slots on the outside of the laminations hold the armature windings. The windings loop
around the core and are connected to the commutator. Each commutator segment is insulated
from the adjacent segments. The commutator may have up to 30 segments. A steel shaft is
inserted in the center hole of the laminations with the commutator insulated from the shaft. The
armature is shown in Fig.S-5.

Field Coils: The electrical current from the magnetic switch flows through the field coils, which
generate the magnetic field required to rotate the armature. There are two types of field coils:
• Electromagnetic: Wire ribbons or coils wrapped around a pole shoe, attached to the inside of
the starter housing. The iron pole shoes and the iron starter housing, work together to increase
and concentrate the strength of the field coils. When current flows thought the field coils strong
electromagnetic fields with North and South poles are created.
• Permanent magnet: Multiple permanent magnets manufactured from an alloy of boron,
neodymium and iron are positioned in the starter housing. Use of permanent magnets allow for
the elimination of the field circuit and windings. The field coils are shown in Fig.S-6.

Fig.S-7 Bendix
drive

Pinion Engaging Drive: The starter’s end drive housing assembly contains the pinion engaging
drive with pinion, overrunning clutch, drive lever and spring. The drive mechanism is responsible
for coordinating the thrust motion of the solenoid switch and the rotary motion of the electric
starter motor and transferring them to the pinion. The starter engages the ring gear on the
flywheel or on the crankshaft by means of the pinion. A high conversion ratio of pinion teeth to
flywheel teeth (between 10:1 and 15:1) make it possible to overcome the high cranking
resistance of the engine using a relatively small but high speed starter motor. As soon as the
engine starts and accelerates past cranking speed, the pinion must automatically withdraw in
order to protect the starter. For this reason, the starter incorporates an overrunning clutch. A
typical bendix drive is shown in Fig.S-7.
The exploded view of the commonly used starter is shown if Fig.S-8.

1. Terminal Nut 16. Bushing Bearing

2. Starter Solenoid 17. Brush End Plate
3. Housing Seal Assembly 18. Brush Plate Screw (2 No.)
4. Bushing Bearing 19. Through-Bolt (2 No)
5. Drive End Housing 20. Armature Assembly
6. Solenoid Screw (2No.) 21. Armature Thrust Ball
7. Starter Motor Assembly 22. Planet Gear
8. Drive Lever 23. Stationary Gear Assembly
9. Drive Assembly 24. Truarc E-Ring
10. Stop Ring Retainer 25. Magnet Pole Piece (6 No.)
11. Stop Ring 26. Pole Shunt (6 No.)
12. Magnet Retainer (6 No.) 27. Armature
13. Starter Frame 28. Shaft Assembly
14. Brush Assembly 29. Gear Retainer
15. Spring
1. Circlip
Fig. S-8 Exploded view of commonly used
2. Starter motor drive gear
starters
3. Starter motor rear cover
4. Washer set
5. Starter motor front cover
6. Washer set
7. End bracket
8. Planetary gears
9. Armature assembly
10. Brush holder/brush
11. Starter motor yoke

Trouble Shooting of Starter Motor

S.No. Fault Cause Remedy
1 Starter motor does Faulty battery. Recharge battery or replace
not rotate when battery.
ignition switch is Battery terminals 1. Clean internal surface of
operated corroded. connecting lugs.
2. Clean battery terminal posts.
Starter supply broken 1. Check the state of cable
 or in poor state. connecting battery and starter.
2. Check battery earth battery
strap.
3. Check cable connection at
starter motor and battery.
4. Change ignition switch or
rectify circuit.
Starter motor short Remove starter motor and rectify.
circuited
2 Starter motor 1. Drive assembly Replace drive assembly. Ensure
rotates at high meshes with gear proper connection of solenoid
speed but does not but does not crank. and shift lever.
crank the engine 2. Drive assembly
does not mesh with
ring gear.
3 Starter motor does 1. Carbon brushes Change brushes and ensure free
not turn or low worn out. movement of brushes.
speed 2. Carbon brushes
jammed.
4 Starter operates at High internal electrical Inspect internal wiring, electrical
low speed with low resistance caused by connections and armature
or normal current poor connections. commutator.
Defective wires or dirty
commutator.
5 Low speed with 1. Excessive friction in 1. Inspect armature
high current bearing/bushes. bearing/bushes and armature
Bent armature or shaft.
loose pole shoes.
2. Armature shorted.
3. Ground armature or 2. Inspect and test armature.
field windings. 3. Inspect armature and field coil
assembly.
6 High speed with Field winding shorted. Inspect and test field coil
high current. assembly.
7 Starter motor crank 1. Drive teeth of pinion 1. Replace defective drive
with noise. worn out. assembly.
2. Drive clutch 2. Replace ring gear.
jammed.
3. Ring gear teeth
damaged.
8 Starter motor crank 1. Poor function of 1. Replace starter switch.
the engine switch.
normally, continues 2. Short circuit in 2. Check wiring harness.
when starter switch wiring harness.
is released 3. Solenoid shunt 3. Replace defective solenoid.
winding open

Testing of starter motor

There are four main components in the starter system. Each can be tested easily.
1. Battery
2. Starter switch/ignition switch
3. Starter relay/ solenoid
4. Starter motor and related electrical wires
Testing the Ignition Switch: This procedure is used for
testing purposes to determine the condition of the cranking
portion of the ignition switch and the wiring from the
ignition switch to the starter.
Tools: • Wire jumpers and • Multimeter
1. Disconnect the battery positive lead.
2. Disconnect the electrical plug from the ignition switch.
3. Check the operation of the cranking contacts on the
ignition switch as follows:
a. Connect an ohmmeter between terminals 30 and 50 on the
ignition switch. If you are unsure which terminals those are,
look at the electrical connector for the wires that attach to the
ignition switch. If the wires were still connected to the
ignition switch, terminal 30 would be connected to the large
diameter red wire and terminal 50 would be connected to Fig.S-9 Ignition the
large diameter red Wire with black stripe (the colour coding switch and starting
may be different depending on manufacturer). circuit
b. Turn the ignition switch to the start position as if cranking the engine and read the resistance.
c. The resistance should go from and infinite resistance to approximately 0 ohms when the
switch is turned.
d. If the correct resistance is not obtained the ignition switch is bad and should be replaced.
4. If the ignition switch checks okay, check the ignition wiring as follows: a. Disconnect the wire
from the switch terminal on the starter solenoid. b. Make up a jumper to reach from the starter
to the ignition switch.c. Attach the jumper from the switch lead at the starter solenoid (Red
Wire/Black Stripe) to the Terminal on the ignition switch electrical connector with the Red
Wire/Black Stripe. d. Check the wire resistance with and ohmmeter. It should be approximately
0 ohms (less than 5 ohms). If not, the wire is broken and should be replaced.
A typical ignition switch and starting circuit diagram is shown in Fig.S-9. The codes or IDs are
as below
- “30” = direct connection to the battery;
- “15” = connected only than when ignition switch is switched on;
- “54” = indication number for the stoplights and several other consumers;
- “31” = indication for negative connection or return to battery;
- “50” = starter control
Starter Voltage drop test: When performing voltage drop tests current must be flowing in the
circuit. This means the engine must be cranked.
Starter voltage drop test for positive circuit: Select the Volt mode on the multimeter, with positive
lead (red) of the multimeter touching the positive (+) battery post and negative lead (black)
touching the battery terminal on the solenoid of the starter. Crank engine while watching the
voltmeter (wired as shown in Fig. S-10). Reading on voltmeter should be less than 0.2 volts.
Starter voltage drop test for positive circuit components: Connect (+) test lead to battery post,
and (-) test lead to battery cable clamp. Then check for voltage drop at this connection. Check
each component and link in the circuit while cranking the engine. Those components with a
voltmeter reading of greater than 0.2 volts should be repaired or replaced. Check the
component or link to verify that the voltage drop is now 0.2 volts or less. Check across every
connection, cable and component as shown in the Fig.S-11.

Starter voltage drop test for ground circuit: With negative lead of the multimeter touching the
negative (-) battery post, and positive lead to the body of the starter which is grounded, crank
engine while watching the voltmeter (Fig.S-12). Reading on voltmeter should be less than 0.2
volts.
If reading is more than 0.2 volts check components in the ground circuit. Check components just
like done for the positive circuit components, but place the negative lead from multimeter to the
connection closest to the negative battery post.

Disassembling, Checking of Components and Assembling of Starter

The procedure is for the typical starter as shown in Fig.S-2.
Tools required: Set of open ended spanner set, screw driver set, multimeter, tachometer, long
nose pliers and voltmeter.

1. Disconnect all the wires from the starter motor.

2. Using the suitable spanners, the remove the starter motor from the motorcycle or vehicle.
3. Clean the starter motor with cotton cloth and hold it in workbench vice.
4. Perform the no load test as below.
(1) Set the multimeter for checking the current (amp).
(2) Refer to Fig.S-13, connect the multimeter in series between the positive terminal of
the battery and positive terminal of the starter solenoid.
(3) Connect a jumper wire between the base of starter motor and negative terminal of
the battery.
(4) Connect the voltmeter in between negative terminal of the battery and positive of the
starter solenoid.
(5) Install a switch in the circuit between the battery positive terminal and the starter
solenoid switch terminal.
(6) Turn the switch on to energize the solenoid and operate the starter motor. Check the
rpm (revolution per minute) of the motor with tachometer and note the amperage and
voltage drawn. These values should be according to the manufacturer’s
specifications (values may be rpm-7000, voltage- 11 Volts DC and Amps- 55).
Disassembling of Starter Motor
The procedure covered in the following steps can be adopted in general for any starter; however
the design may vary with the motorcycle and automobile. The following procedure is for typical
starter. Before disassembling, mark lines on every joint to position them in original state during
assembling.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the wires from the solenoid switch of the starter motor and remove the solenoid
switch mounting bolts.
3. Remove the solenoid switch and dust covers as shown in Fig. A-1 .
4. Disconnect the solenoid plunger from the shift lever.
5. Remove the rear dust cover as shown in Fig. B-1.
6. Remove the O-ring and thrust washer as shown in Fig.B.

7. Remove the two through-bolts securing the rear cover and the two screws securing the
brush holder.
8. Remove the rear cover. Make sure that washers and shims are not damaged during
disassembling.
9. Pull up the brush springs with nose pliers (Fig. C) and remove the brushes from brush holder
assembly.
10. Remove the brush holder assembly.
11. Pull off the field assembly from armature assembly as shown in Fig. D.
12. Pull out the armature assembly from the gear housing as shown in Fig. E.
13. Remove the shift lever.
14. Pull down the pinion stop (Fig.F-1) to expose the retaining ring. Using a screw driver,
remove the retaining ring ( Fig. F-2) from the pinion shaft.
15. Remove the pinion stop, spring, and pinion clutch assembly from the pinion shaft (Fig.G)

Inspection and Testing of Starter Motor Components

Commutator surface inspection: Inspect the commutator surface. If it is rough polish it with
fine emery cloth as shown in Fig. H.
Measurement of outside diameter of commutator: With the help of vernier caliper, measure the
outside diameter of the commutator as shown in Fig. I, and if it is less than the prescribed
diameter of the manufacturer, replace the armature.

Measuring commutator insulation depth: Measure the insulation material depth between the
commutator segments as shown in Fig. J 1-2. If the depth of the insulation material is less than
the limit, use hand hacksaw blade (Fig. J-3) to remove the extra insulating material, and bring it
to desired depth. A normal commutator condition looks like Fig. J-4 and bad commutator is
shown in Fig. J-5.
Checking armature for continuity: Set the multimeter in ohm mode and check the
commutator segments for continuity. The multimeter should indicate continuity between the
segments. If the multimeter does not indicate continuity between any segments, replace the
armature. Check all the segments as shown in Fig. K.

Checking armature coil insulation: Use multimeter and check for continuity between
commutator segment and the shaft of the armature (Fig.L). The multimeter should not show any
continuity. If there is continuity, replace the armature.
Measuring run-out of armature and commutator: During operation, the armature shaft
should remain straight. In case of bent shaft the armature may touch the field winding poles and
brushes may not touch the commutator. The run-out may be checked on lathe using dial
indicator as shown in Fig. M. If the run-out is not within the manufacturer’s limits, replace the
armature.

Checking field coil for continuity: As show in Fig. N, check the continuity between field coil
terminals. The multimeter should indicate continuity. The field coils should be replaced if the
multimeter does not show any continuity.
Field coil insulation test: Check the continuity between field coil terminals and yoke (body which
is grounded) by multimeter. There should not be any continuity between the field coils and body
of the starter. If the continuity is shown by the multimeter, replace the field coils. The continuity
test is shown in the Fig. O.
Measuring brush length: Check the brush length with the help of vernier caliper as shown in
Fig. P. For proper working of the starter, the brushes should always touch the commutator.
Replace the brushes if these are worn out.
Brush holder insulation test: Brushes should be insulated from the brush holder plate. Use
multimeter and check for the continuity between brush holder and brush holder plate as shown
in Fig. Q. The multimeter should not show any continuity. If the multimeter indicates any
continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.

Checking spring force: Spring keeps the brushes in contact with the commutator. If the spring
has lost the tension, the brush may loose contact with the commutator and make starter
nonfunctional. Check the spring force with the help of spring balance and the force should be
according to manufacturer’s specifications. The checking of spring force is shown in Fig. R.
Replace the springs if they have lost the tension.
Solenoid shunt coil continuity test: Use multimeter and check for continuity between terminal
“S” and switch body. The multimeter should show continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the
solenoid switch. The continuity test is shown in Fig. S.
Solenoid series coil continuity test: Use multimeter and check for continuity between terminal
“S” and “M”. The multimeter should indicate continuity as shown in Fig. T. In case there is no
continuity, replace the solenoid switch.
Solenoid contact continuity test: As shown in Fig. U, depress the plunger at the bottom of
solenoid switch. Check for continuity between terminal “B” and terminal ‘M” by using multimeter.
The multimeter should show continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the starter solenoid
switch.
The following Fig. V shows the different terminals on the solenoid.

Measuring brush length: As shown in Fig. W, measure the brush length with vernier caliper.
The brush length should according to specifications of the manufacturer. The figure also shows
the new and worn out brushes. The brushes should move freely in the brush holders. In case of
any resistance, clean the rust of brush holder.
Pinion teeth inspection: The pinion teeth engage with the teeth of flywheel or ring gear.
Inspect the pinion teeth, if these are worn out or damaged, replace the pinion.
Inspection of pinion clutch: Visually inspect the pinion clutch for any damage. Rotate the
pinion clutch assembly manually in the drive direction, it should rotate freely. Try to rotate it in
opposite direction, it should be locked. If the assembly is free in the opposite direction, replace
the pinion clutch assembly. Slide the clutch assembly on the shaft and should slide smoothly. If
it does not slide and there is any obstruction, clean the rust, grease or any other foreign
material. Replace the assembly in case it is damaged or does not slide after cleaning. Inspect
the pinion spring also and if faulty, replace the same. Inspection of the assembly is shown in
Fig. X.

Assembling of Starter Motor

After inspection, checking and testing of the components of the starter in can be assembled as
per following procedure.
1. Start with assembling of pinion clutch. Grease slightly the pinion shaft and install the pinion
assembly on to the shaft.
2. Install the retaining ring into the groove of the shaft and slide the pinion stop over the
retaining ring as shown in Fig. 1-1.
3. Apply a little grease to the sliding portion of the shift lever and ensure the shift lever properly
engages the pinion.
4. Install the armature and pinion assemble into the pinion housing as shown in Fig.S-2.

5. Install the field assembly over the armature assembly and align the pinion housing (Fig.1-3).
Before disassembling the lines were marked on the housing/body, match the lines.
6. Join the brush holder assembly to the armature assembly.
7. Position the brush springs in the brush holder and install the brushes in their positions
(Fig.1-4). Do not change the sequence of the brushes or the rotation of starter may be
reversed.
8. Install the rear cover.
9. Insert the two through bolts in position and tighten them securely.
10. Install the thrust washer and E-ring lock.

11.Install the rear dust cover as shown in Fig. 1-5.

12. Apply a light coat of grease to the surface of plunger and the hole which engages the shift
lever.
13.Assemble the plunger into the solenoid switch and install the dust covers as shown in the
Fig. 1-6.
14.Install the solenoid switch assembly and ensure the plunger properly engages the shift lever.
15. Connect the motor wire to the solenoid switch as shown in Fig. 1-7. Tighten the nut securely
with the help of spanner.
16. Bench test the starter by holding the starter in the vice, connecting negative lead of battery
terminal to the body of the starter and positive lead to the ‘B” terminal of the solenoid switch.
Using the jumper wire connect the “B” terminal of the solenoid switch to “S”, the starter
should work.