MOTORCYCLE ON WASTE

How to convert a motorcycle on waste and water at a very low cost.

WWW.DRIVEONWASTE.COM

This is the first day that I drove my bike on waste and water: 06/29/2024
I speed up to 44 miles/h. Look how the sky celebrated this historical day!!
!!

Also SEE and SHARE:

The videos of the Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/@DriveOnWaste
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/driveonwaste
Website: WWW.DRIVEONWASTE.COM
Eddy Ramos. Set 2024. Version #1. Pending patent. For the Glory of God.
 Page 2 of 19.
PROLOGUE. This is a free service for human kind.
All information can be downloaded (still) free at the website WWW.DRIVEONWASTE.COM
The "chargas" is different from methane gas that is product of the decomposition of wet organic
waste inside of a biodigester. “Chargas” is basically carbon monoxide (CO) that is a combustible
gas, the product of incomplete combustion of carbonized dry organic waste plus hydrogen by
the thermolysis of a few drops of water. Has an energy of almost 1.500 BTU/cu Feet.
FIRST in 2019 was the drive on waste pickup. A Ford Falcon Ranchero that, in the year 2022,
toured Argentina from end to end, 3,000 miles without gasoline only on the waste that was
found on the way. It reaches up to 72 miles/hour. Needs 30Pounds of waste to travel 60miles at
50Miles/h. With almost cero contamination and a contribution of 20.76% of oxygen to
environment. The "DRIVEONWASTE” manual is born for free
FOLLOWED the FREE ELECTRICITY or Generator on waste in 2024, being able to generate 1KW-
H with 5 Pounds of waste. The "generating guide on waste or free electricity” appears to be
download for free. Also, the "Heating and gas cooking on waste” guide.
HERE on this “Motorcycle on waste” manual (still) free, is all the information and plans to
convert a 4 Strokes carburetor or injection gasoline motorbike into a bike on waste at a very low
cost. The motorcycle can also be used with gasoline only. Obviously, the start with gasoline is
immediate instead with "chargas" may take 4 minutes to turn on and the final speed is lower,
but the fuel is free. In 2T engines when using gas as combustible with no oil, it has to enter
lubrication in the carburetor. For electric vehicles, see the “Free electricity” guide or “Generator
on waste” to recharge the batteries for free. With almost cero contamination and a contribution
of 24.5% of oxygen to the environment. Download (still) free the manual: “Drive on waste”, also
the “Free electricity” guide at the website WWW.DRIVEONWASTE.COM and watch the didactic
videos of the YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@DriveOnWaste
VERY IMPORTANT WARNING: "Chargas" is basically carbon monoxide, which is a fuel but very
TOXIC GAS. Never operate this system in closed spaces as garage, etc. Just operate outside or
in very well-ventilated spaces.
TYPES OF WASTE: It’s organic, dry and carbonized waste, sieged to a certain size. Not carbonized
or bad waste produce tar that dirty everything. The filter is ONLY for dust and ashes, IT DOES
NOT FILTER THE TAR. Examples of organic waste: Charcoal powder (it is already carbonized),
shells of: nuts, pistachio, almond, etc.; Pits of: Peach, damascus, plums, olive without salt, etc.;
Oak acorns; Pruning remains, tree bark, wood pieces, everything carbonized and sieged to a size
between 3mm (1/8”) and 20mm (3/4”). Important: do not to use pits form pitted olives because
it has salt, or coke coal because it has tar. In the "Drive on waste" manual there are two methods
to carbonize waste, and there are much more on the Internet.
 Page 3 of 20.
Advice for beginners: Read the manual several times, see the photos & videos on YouTube
before converting a motorcycle to "chargas". For the first tests it is advisable to use vegetable
carbon, even if it must be purchased because coal is very noble, it does not fail, crush and sieged
to the recommended size. The motorcycle of the example is a 7.6 Cu Inches (125cc), the engine
is very worn, would need a rectification. It has a carburetor but it is easier on injection engines.
The CONSUMPTIONS in 62 Miles (100km) of carbonized waste and 1 drop of water every 6
seconds, depends on speed is approximately 7.7Pounds@37Miles/h = 3.5Kilos@60Km/h.
The DRIVING RANGE of this sample, depends on several factors, like setup of the system, type
of waste, experience, etc. but goes from 12,5 Miles (20 Km) up to 78 Miles( 125Km). See Page 7.

Here it starts explaining a generic system, then at the end, are explained different systems some
simpler and economical other more advanced, with their advantages and disadvantages.
THE SYSTEM CONSISTS OF: *A) THE GASIFIER, *B) THE NOZZLE at the bottom of the drum,
*C) THE EMBER CATCHER, *D) THE WATER DRIP, *E) THE COOLER, *F) THE FILTER, *G) THE “T”
with the (AFR) SPHERICAL VALVE (AFR stands for Air Fuel Ratio) located before the carburetor
to regulate air-"chargas" and THE CONNECTION HOSES, *H) THE THERMOMETER. In that order.

This photo shows the motorcycle without the plastics just to show the inside assembly.

For better understanding see Motor on waste at https://www.youtube.com/@DriveOnWaste

 Page 4 of 20.

1. Gasifier drum lid. 11. Micro water dripper.

2. Under lid. 12. Water valve.
3. Type “L” supports of the underlid. 13. Metallic cooler pipe.
4. Nozzle above the "T". 14. Plug with twisted sheet hung inside
5. Carbonized waste load. the cooler pipe.
6. Gasifier drum. 15. Temperature electric sensor bulb.
7. Stainless steel funnel. 16. "Chargas" filter.
8. "T" with the entry of water. 17. (AFR) Valve.
9. Box and output of "gas". 18. Original air filter of the motorcycle.
10. Water bottle. 19. Dial of the thermometer.
 Page 5 of 20.
* A) THE GASIFIER: Is the vertical gray drum. The lid with an airtight rubber joint preferably with
a closing strap. On the base of the drum is the nozzle that is shown below. The example gasifier
is a fine sheet metal (AWG#20 = 0.9mm) drum of diameter 11” (28 cm), high 15” (38 cm) and 5
Gal (20 Liters) of capacity. Under the lid there is an under-lid that makes the first cooling of
"chargas." Inside the drum is wrapped a "galvanized protecting sheet" and a non-magnetic
stainless-steel funnel this last both are not indispensable.
The 5-Gal (20Ltrs) drum with the funnel and the sheet has a final capacity of 4.8 Gal (18.4Lts).

The under-lid cools the Galvanized sheet of protection & Size of the protection
chargas. non -magnetic stainless funnel sheet and the funnel

* B) THE NOZZLE or nipple.

It is the HEART of the system. It is where the gasifier load is ignited, the "chargas" is generated
and the ONLY place where the air enters the entire system while the engine is on.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to respect its measure.
The interior hole size is based on the RPM and the size of the motor by the following formula.
Nozzle hole diameter in millimeters = √cm3 x 0.000145 x RPM
CM3: It is the size of the engine in cubic centimeters.
√CM3: It is the square root of the motor size in cubic centimeters.
RPM: Are engine revolutions at 40 Miles/h (65 Km/h)
The calculation diameter is approximate, it can vary between + or - 10%.
For the motor of the example, it has a 125cc (7,6Cu”) and at 40 Miles/h (65 km/h) are
approximately 6,000 RPM. Then the formula for calculating the hole in the nozzle will be =
√125cc x 0.000145 x 6000 = 11.18 X 0.000145 X 6,000 = 9,7mm. When using water drip, it has
to increase the hole of the nozzle to compensate for the section that this dripping tube occupies.
When using a disarmed copper thermocouple, whose diameter is 1/8” (3mm), the calculation
diameter must be increased about approximately 0.6 mm. So, the final diameter of the hole will
be 3/8” + or – 10%. For this example, use a 3/8” gas nipple and the central hole was increased
to 3/8” (10 mm). The dripper is inserted in the "T" by an inclined hole and fixed by a clamp.
CONCLUSION: For an engine of 110cc (6.7Cu”) or 125cc (7.6Cu”) the nozzle hole must be
3/8” or 10mm.
 Page 6 of 20.
Parts of the nozzle.
1. A 3/8” (9.5mm) metallic nipple.
2. Washer under the Nozzle #1
and above the Bottom of the
drum #3 as a backup for the Tack
weld #4 of the “T” #5 with the
Bottom of the drum in case it is a
fine sheet metal.
3. Drum bottom
4. Tack weld point.
5. “T” of 3/8” (9.5mm) with an
inclined hole to insert the Copper
tube #8.
6. Plug to turn off the gasifier.
7. Embers catcher.
8. Water dropper copper tube.

*C) EMBERS CATCHER

While the engine is on, the UPSTREAM suction of air thru the
nozzle maintains the embers INSIDE the gasifier, but when the
motorcycle engine is turned off or even when it is regulating in
lower rpm, it is possible that embers may fall on the floor
through the nozzle and can produce a fire. For which, after the
ignition of the gasifier, a metal “Embers catcher" is screwed in
under the nozzle that prevents this risk.
* D) THE WATER DRIPPER:
Water dissociates by thermolysis in hydrogen and oxygen INCREASE the power of "chargas"
by 50%, COOLS the gasifier because with the water drops the temperature of the drum can raise
up to 140ºC, but without the water drops it can raise up to 240ºC, REDUCES the consumption
of waste by 50%, INCREASE driving range for the same load and PROLONGS the useful life of
the entire gasifier: nozzle, drum, stainless funnel, etc. It is a plastic bottle, full of NON-SALTED
water and filtered, can be contaminated, or potable, but filtered, better without chlorine. Under
the thread of the bottle lid has a breath hole. In the base it has a “Intra Venus” with a plastic
needle that is the serum regulation system used in hospitals and a plastic valve, are purchased
in pharmacies. Wheel regulation is better than aluminum sheet. It connects to the water drip
copper tube that enters in the nozzle. The amount of water drops depends on speed. Start with
one drop every 6 sec. The excess water will not be seen immediately because at the beginning
the excess water is absorbed by the dry load, then will condensate at the draining tube.
 Page 7 of 20.
Use a chronometer to measure the time that takes 10 drops and divided by 10. More water does
not mean more power, excess water is harmful. With a dry load, the excess of water drip will
be seen, after a while of condensed water in the drain of the motorcycle air filter box (See page
14). Ideally, the amount of water is gradually increasing until water condensation starts to
appears in this drainage. Humid load will also condensate water. This drain is in view of the driver
to be monitored during driving
PARTS OF THE WATER DRIPPER.
1. Breath hole under the throat of the
water bottle.
2. Water bottle of half Gal (1.8 Liters)
3. Intra Venus with plastic needle.
4. Wheel drip regulation.
5. Plastic valve.
6. The drip hose is inserted in the copper
tube that enters the nozzle.

NOTE: One drop of water every 6 seconds

means 2.25 Ounces (66Cm3) per 2 hours.
*E) THE “CHARGAS” COOLER: TWO SYSTEMS ARE SHOWN “A” & “B”
The "A" system is simpler and more economical. Showing the photo
on the right. A ¾” (19mm) rubber hose is used that leaves the
gasifying drum and goes directly to the plastic jar or “chargas” filter.
This rubber hose is use in car heating systems. But this system has a
driving range of only 12 Miles (20 km). The limit is given because at
the exit of the gasifying drum there are plastic accessories that melt
at 212ºF (100ºC). Here the bottle is one Pint (500cc).

DRIVING RANGE depends on many factors:

The type and size of the waste. The density of the waste. Greater weight by volume will give
greater autonomy. Also, the same waste shaken between (3mm) to 7/16”” (11mm) is denser
than the shaken waste between 1/8” (3mm) and ¾” (20mm).
The speed. In this example, the most economical speed is 38Miles/h (60 km/h) in third gear.
The driving experience with "chargas." In example, inside the gasifier, sometimes a "bell of
embers" (call “bridging”) is formed that generates very little "chargas". When this occurs, by
circulating on irregular surface, the vibration of the gasifier crumbles this bridge increasing the
output of the "chargas".
Water drip management. At the beginning use 1 drop every 6 seconds, then lower the timing to
5 seconds but latter when water condensation is seen at the drain hose go back the last drip.
A diffusor disk, explained bellow on page 12.
The advanced “B” system setup explained as follows.
 Page 8 of 20.
The "B" system is the one explained below.
This Cooler system increases the driving range up to 40 Miles (65 Km) since at the exit of the
gasifier are used metal parts. Since the larger driving range needs a larger bottle ½ Gal (2Ltrs).

Cooler parts
1. A "T" of 1”(25mm)
galvanized iron.
2. A 1” (25mm) plug with
a twisted galvanized
sheet metal hanging from
it, goes inside the pipe.
3. A 1” (25mm)
galvanized iron pipe,
inside will hang the
twisted sheet metal.
4. A "T" of 1” (25mm)
galvanized iron. Twisted sheet hanging
5. A Temperature bulb. from the plug.

* F) THE “CHARGAS” FILTER:

This is a solid particle filter, does not filter tar. It is a 1-Gal (4 Liters) plastic jar, airtight lid with 5
metal or plastic separators plates with 4 layers of 1½” {40mm) thick high density rubber foam.
The “chargas” enters through the airtight lid and exits by the bottom of the bucket. This filter
must be used horizontal because here part of the excess water of the dripper and/or if the waste
is very humid may accumulate and thus prevent condensed water from getting inside the engine.
The driving range of this type of filter is of approximately 75 Miles (120Km).
The plates have decreasing
cuts: the one on the entrance
side, that is, on the side of the
lid has a straight cut of 6”
(150mm). The one that
follows has a straight cut of
5½” (140mm), after 5”
(130mm) and the other of
4½” (120mm) and the last of
4” (110mm). These cuts are
alternated to the left and
others to the right. The last
rubber foam on the exit is
moistened with mineral oil.
 Page 9 of 20.

PARTS OF THE FILTER

1. Viewed from the
top, the
separators cuts go
alternate at left
and right.
2. The last rubber
foam is humid
with light oil.
3. The three first
rubber foam are
dry.
4. 4 rubber foams.
5. 5 Separators.
6. Airtight lid.

* G) THE "T" AND THE SPHERICAL REGULATION (AFR) VALVE WITH THE HOSES that connect
from the gasifier to the engine.
At the exit of the gasifier drum is the cooler ( in the “B” system). Then there is a “chargas” filter.
From the output of this filter to the “T” is a ¾” (19mm) yellow painted rubber hose that is used
in car heating. This “T” of polypropylene and the spherical (AFR) Valve both are 1” (25mm). The
black polyethylene hose is 1" (25mm) and connects this "T" with the input of the motorcycle air
filter.
 Page 10 of 20.
*H) THE THERMOMETER.
As the waste load within the gasifier is consumed, the output temperature of the "chargas"
increases. When it goes up to 160ºF (70ºC) it is time to recharge waste or change to gasoline. It
is a waste level meter that is in the gasifier. The thermometer is 12Vdc of automobile. The dial is
installed in view of the driver and the sensor bulb is installed in the "T" before the "chargas"
filter under the pipe cooler.
The thermometer dial has
two electrical connections.
One is the signal that comes
from the sensor bulb and
another, the 12Vdc power
supply that comes from the
contact key, which must have
its own 5 AMP own fuse.
Thermometer dial. Thermometer sensor bulb.

EXAMPLE OF THE REAR GRILL LUGGAGE HOLDER FOR THE GASIFYING DRUM.
This grill holder must
support the weight of
the drum loaded with
waste and water, in
total 33 Pounds (15
kilos), which for the
jumps is considered X4,
that is, it must support
132 Pounds (60 kilos).

TOOLS FOR IGNITION AND TURNING OFF

1. Bottle with alcohol.
2. Propane torch.
3. Mirror.
4. Round thin sheet metal.
5. Metallic plug to turn of gasifier.
6. Ember catcher with a fixed key
to unscrew the plug.
7. Nozzle cleaner.
8. Probe wire to cleaner the
water dripping copper tube.
9. Plastic hose to blow inside the
water dripping copper tube.
 Page 11 of 20.
Description of each element:
1. BOTTLE WITH ALCOHOL. ONLY when there is already aspiration in the nozzle, it is used to
splash with alcohol the carbonized waste that is inside the gasifying drum through the nozzle to
facilitate ignition.
2. PROPANE TORCH. ONLY when there is already aspiration in the nozzle, it is used to light the
gasifier. The coal turns on inside the drum through the nozzle.
3. MIRROR. It is used to see that there are embers on the gasifier through the nozzle
4. ROUND THIN SHEET METAL. It is used to turn off the gasifier. It is placed between the union
at the exit of the "chargas" filter.
5. METALLIC PLUG. It is to turn off the gasifier plugging the air entrance at the nozzle.
6. EMBERS CATCHER. It screws under the nozzle to prevent embers from falling through the
nozzle to the floor being able to cause a fire. It has a kind of fixed key of the metallic plug size to
be able to loosen it if it is hard to remove.
7. NOZZLE CLEANER. It is an iron rod that is useful for cleaning the nozzle from the bottom up. It
has a slot to avoid touching the copper tube of the water dripper that crosses the inside of the
nozzle. If the last time the gasifier was used and it was not empty, this rod is good to remove the
ashes in the nozzle to be able to turn on the gasifier. Also, to restart the gasifier if it was stopped
for a while and to see if there are embers on thru the nozzle with the mirror.
8. PROBE WIRE. It is used to clean from down up the copper tube of the water dripper that enters
the nozzle because it can be clogged with dust or ashes at the top.
9. BLOWING PLASTIC HOSE. After using the probe wire to clean the copper tube, this hose is
used to blow through this copper tube and verify that air is free to pass.
Finished Motorcycle on waste.
 Page 12 of 20.
DIFFUSOR DISK.
The autonomy can be increased for the same load. When the diffuser disk is not, a kind of
column or fire is produced from the nozzle that crosses the load vertically missing the load of
the sides. Instead, the diffuser disc forces the fire to cross the entire load. It is hung a few
centimeters above the nozzle. This increases autonomy, but the final speed decreases. Here is
used a refractory round disk with 40 to 60% of alumina, 4” (10cm) diameter, ¾” (2cm) thick fixed
at 1 ½” (4cm) above the nozzle gives an autonomy of 62Miles (100km), but the maximum speed
will be only up to 37Miles/h (60 km/h). In addition, the diffuser disc causes the maximum output
temperature of the "chargas" to be below 160ºF (70ºC), that is, the motorcycle goes out due to
lack of "chargas" and not due to high gas outlet temperature. Using a “floating” diffusor disc the
driving range can be of 78miles (125Km), but is hard to explained and to draw it here, I will
upload an explanatory video at Youtube Channel. https://www.youtube.com/@DriveOnWaste

No diffusor disk. With diffusor disk

 Page 13 of 20.
COMPANION BACKREST:
As the gasifier drum can raise a
lot of temperature, around
280ºF (140ºC) with the drip of
water and up to 450ºF (230ºC) if
the drip of the water is off, it is
recommended to install a
backrest with high thermal
insulation for the companion.
TWO DIFFERENT SYSTEMS: *1 & *2 FOR THE ENTRY OF "CHARGAS" TO THE AIR FILTER BOX.
*1 System. From the "T" of 1”
(25mm) the "chargas" enters
directly in to the air intake of the
motorcycle filter with a 1” (25mm)
polyethylene hose. But if it exceeds
the drip of water and/or if the load
is too humid then the air filter may
get wet and it will be hard or
impossible to run on gasoline. It can
be replaced by one of rubber foam.
*2 System. Here the “chargas” and the air enters the engine are separately. The “chargas”
enters to the air filter box without going through the filter and the air enters into the air intake.
A hole is made
to the air filter
box where the
"chargas" enters
without passing
and wetting the
air filter.

The air entry remains thru the air intake of

the filter, always regulated by the (AFR)
valve. MAKE SURE all the elements must be
al least INTERIOR of 1” (25mm). #1
Polyethylene hose. #2 Metallic nipple
inserted in the hose, do not use plastic
barbed fitting. #3 Female-female elbow do
not use male-female elbow.
 Page 14 of 20.
It is recommended to The water drain of the air filter box of the
replace the original spark bike. Is recommended to enlarged it with a
plug with a colder one, transparent plastic hose as a deposit of
since the temperature possible condensed water. See photo on the
measured next to the right. The water dripping must be adjusted
spark plug running with little by little so that, without decreasing the
gasoline is 186ºF (86ºC), engine power, the least amount of water
but instead running on condensation in this drain accumulates. It
“chargas” with water is should be in view of the driver to be watched
220ºF (104ºC). during driving.

TWO DIFFERENT TYPES OF START:

The first type of start is with a bit of gasoline, the second is for those places where there is no
gasoline at all and is explained at the end. Go to https://www.youtube.com/@DriveOnWaste
First let's see the different positions of the Air-“chargas” Regulation (AFR) Valve.
POSITION #1. POSITION #2.
Completely Completely
open valve, closed valve.
for gasoline.

POSITION #3. POSITION #4.

Position for Variable
"chargas" position for
starting.

INITIAL SITUATION: Nothing should interrupt the moment of ignition. Make sure is everything:
the alcohol bottle, the torch, the mirror, the nozzle plug, the round thin sheet metal, the mber
catcher, a probe wire, a blowing hose, a hull, gloves, documents, etc.
 Page 15 of 20.
1) Check the state of the spark plug, the motorcycle air filter and the “chargas” filter.
2) Open the airtight top lid of the gasifying drum, the cooling underlid, fill with carbonized and
dry waste, place the cooling underlid, clean the edges of the drum where the airtight lid is set.
Place that lid and the strap.
3) Remove possible debris at the tube tip. Pass a probe wire and blow with the hose to clean it.

Introduce a probe wire

Tip of the water dripping View from the inside the
through the copper water
tube obstructed. exit of the probe wire.
tube from the outside.
A) START WITH GASOLINE. THE START WITHOUT GASOLINE is explained in page 18.
1) Open the spherical (AFR) valve in position #1 completely open. Open the gas tank valve. Turn
on the motor, adjust the carburetor so that the RPM of the motor in low are a little more
accelerated because the "chargas" has less calories than gasoline. Remove the ember catcher
and the plug from under the nozzle and the round thin sheet metal from the union that seals
at the output of the "chargas" filter.
2) While the engine is running on gasoline, place the (AFR) valve in the variable position #4.
Thus, the engine aspires PART through the nozzle and PART of the air through the (AFR) valve.
The position will be the most closed possible until the engine starts missing due to lack of air.
3) Turn on the gasifier with a splash of alcohol through the nozzle and then with the torch. View
the embers inside the gasifier looking with a mirror through the nozzle.

Bottle with Alcohol in Propane torch Fire in nozzle View of ember

alcohol. nozzle at the mirror.
Bless Lord to those who invoke you with sincere devotion regardless of religion.
 Page 16 of 20.
4) Screw the embers catcher under the "T" to prevent embers from falling to the ground.
5) From now on the ignition process can be continued on the road or steady before moving.
6) As the system is purged, "chargas” will start entering together with gasoline in to the
carburetor. To avoid having the engine go off due to the excess of the two fuels, it must be kept
a little accelerated and opening a little the position #4 of the (AFR) valve trying to maintain an
acceptable mixture of air and gasoline + "chargas". After another 3 minutes of keeping the
engine accelerated, close the gasoline valve. The engine will continue to run because there are
gasoline remains in the carburetor. Open the water dripper to 1 drop every 6 seconds.
7) At the time the carburetor is completely emptied, approximately 1 minute, a sudden and short
acceleration is produced, and immediately place the (AFR) valve in position #3 for “chargas”.
See the photo above with this "Position #3". The first time can be difficult because it has to guess
the position #3 for "chargas”. In injection engines, this is much easier because there is no
carburetor. Ideally start the engine ONLY on “chargas” no water and then open de water dripper.
8) Accelerate little by little so that within the gasifier the "combustion center" grows (that is, a
greater production of "chargas") and that water thermolysis (more power) occurs.
9) If you turn on for the first time, circulate about 5km at 50/60 km/h and adjust the #3 position
of the (AFR) valve for maximum power and mark it. That will facilitate the next starts.
10) At the beginning the speed will be slow, then will increase with of more "chargas."

IF IT DOES NOT START:

If the motorcycle works well on gasoline, but does not start on "chargas", here some suggestions.
1) The waste load must be dry, so check if the waste load is wet and replace if necessary.
2) As the entire system works airtight, the only places where the air should enter are the nozzle
and (AFR) valve. So, it must be verified that the whole system is sealed, that is, there is no other
place where may be any air filtration.
3) Airtight “chargas” filter? Cover the output and blow at the input see if there is no filtration.
4) Clogged "chargas" filter? Blow at the input and see that the air comes out freely.
5) Some obstructed, tight or crushed hose that prevents the passage of the gas. So, review it.
6) Ensure that the hose or hoses enters and fits snugged into the air filter.
7) A lot of water vapor is bad because: A) The waste load is too humid or B) The drip of water
was done before there was not enough temperature for thermolysis. Check with a mirror that
the gasifier is on and that it has being working with no water for at least 3 minutes. Start with
one drop every 6 seconds and ones the motor is running, may increase to every 5 seconds.
8) The gasifier lid has not closed hermetically. Make sure the edges of the gasifying drum were
cleaned before placing the lid.

Not only of bread must live the man, but also of the waste he generates.

Thank you, Dad for your Love, do not abandon the work of your hands
 Page 17 of 20.
DRIVE ON CHARGAS:
Once the fair position #3 of the (AFR) valve is found for "chargas" no longer needs to move it
anymore, the motorcycle is handled only with the accelerator. While driving try adjusting very
little this (AFR) to get maximum power. The power with "chargas" is a bit lower than with
gasoline, so it should be used with the engine a bit more accelerated. IMPORTANT: Each time
the engine is turned off, close the water dripper because water thermolysis will no longer take
place, the charcoal load will get wet and it will be difficult or impossible to start. Also, when the
engine is off, the gasifier starts to cool down and the embers starts to die. So, in this case when
restarting the engine directly on “chargas” accelerate the engine to lit up the embers, and only
when the engine is running and stable ONLY on “chargas” with no water then open the dripper.
The maximum speed is 44 Miles/h (70Km/h) with a motorcyclist of 158 Pounds (72 kilos) of
weight. The consumption for the first 62 Miles (100Km), depending on the speed, is almost 8.8
Pounds (4 Kilos) of waste, almost 4 Gal (16Ltrs) of waste + 1/4 Pint (1/8 Liter) of water (1 water
drop every 6 seconds). After about 62 Miles (100 Km) need to recharge or change to gasoline.
Check the gas filter and clean, check the water condensate in the transparent plastic hose of the
drain at the air filter box and drain it if necessary.

RECHARGE OR CHANGE OF FUEL:

During the entire riding the output temperature of the “chargas” will be in the order of the
120/140ºF (50/60ºC). When it reaches 160ºF (70ºC) it is time to recharge waste or change to
gasoline. Pay close attention! because when it reaches 150ºF (65ºC) the temperature rises very
quickly to the 176ºF (80ºC), the rubber foam disintegrates and the plastics begin to bend.
1) If you are going to recharge with waste: Close the water dripper. Turn off the engine by turning
the contact key. Remove the strap and the lid of the gasifier. Be careful when removing the
cooling underlid, because it will be very hot and, in addition, there may be a gentle explosion as
a "puff." Without much delay, recharge, place the underlid, clean the edges of the gasifier before
placing the upper lid and the strap. Turn on the engine without purging the entire system. When
the engine is running good ONLY on “chargas” with no water then open the water dripper.
2) If you are going to change to gasoline: Close the water dipper. Turn off the engine by turning
the contact key. Turn off the gasifier drum FIRST by closing the air entrance to the nozzle with
the metal plug, then shut off the gasifier output with the round thin sheet metal between the
union at the outlet of the “chargas” filter. Open the (AFR) valve completely in position #1 for
gasoline. Open the gasoline valve and turn on the engine.
*ATTENTION #1 If it costs too much or is impossible to turn on with gasoline it may because the
cellulose filter of the bike has moistened. It may be because the waste load may be very humid
and/ or because the drip of water has been excessive. The humid filter should be replaced by a
dry one. Recommendation to avoid this: 1) Without decreasing the engine power, adjust the
water drip so there will be no excess water and/or also 2) Change the original cellulose filter for
a “high flow” that is of rubber foam and that is not clogged by moisture, but disintegrates at
176ºF (80ºC) so it should be very careful not to exceed that temperature.
 Page 18 of 20.
END OF THE TRIP, DEFINITIVE TURNING OFF.
1) Cut the water dripper. Turn off the engine by turning the contact key. Turn off the gasifier.
FIRST by plugging the air entrance into the nozzle with the metal plug and then shut off the
gasifier outlet with the round thin sheet metal in between the union at the outlet of the
"chargas" filter. Leave it like this until the load has completely cooled.
2) If it ended up using with “chargas” it is convenient to clean any possible remains of tar
deposited in the carburetor dragged by a poor carbonized load. After closing the gasifier, open
to the maximum the (AFR) valve in position #1, open the gasoline tank valve, turn on the engine
and keep it working or circulate for 3 minutes. If it costs to turn on to see *ATTENTION #1 above.
3) Next day, with a cold gasifier drum, empty it, clean the accumulated ashes around and above
the nozzle, shake the remaining load of the dust produced by vibration and movement. Blow
with high pressure air the interior of the drum, ALL the cooling system from the gasifying drum
to the “chargas” filter especially the temperature sensor bulb.
4) Open the “chargas” filter to see if there is accumulation of water and drain. Check the rubber
foams. If it is dirty with ashes shake them, blow with high pressure air, but if they are dirty with
tar remains change for new ones.

B) THE START WITHOUT GASOLINE of the MOTORCYCLE.

In those places where there is no gasoline at all, the bike can be turned on without gasoline. A
12Vdc fan-aspirator is needed that begins the suction on the nozzle for the ignition of the
gasifying drum through the nozzle and a vent.

FAN-ASPIRATOR.
Use a Bilge blower as the ones use on RV vehicles or nautical. Or it can be assembled using three
12Vdc fans or “coolers” of electronic equipment that are economical to buy or very economical
or free in the workshops that repairs electronic or computers equipment. The three coolers must
be exactly the same. When they join together with the threaded rod make sure that the three
blows at the direction. The three are connect electrically in parallel. Then the half PET bottles
are placed according to the photo. Heat the bottles with a torch, the heat shrinks and hugs it to
the coolers. With the threading die it must thread the neck of the bottles where is the thread
for the caps. This can be screwed with glue o epoxy every half of the union in each bottle.
 Page 19 of 20.
PARTS OF THE FAN ARMED WITH 3 COOLERS.

1. Male piece of the union.

2. Three Coolers.
3. Two threaded rods with
nuts to join the coolers.
4. Female piece of the union.
5. Two bottles of half cut.
6. Silicone tube.
7. Threading die to make the
thread in the necks of the
bottles.
8. Propane torch.

THE VENT:
The vent is placed at the outlet of the starter blower. It is a
union with a metal nipple where all the air in the system is
vented or purged outside at the beginning of the ignition
process. When all the air of the system is expelled, ignite
here the "chargas", the flame must be transparent, blue or
clear yellow. If it is strong orange, it means that ”chargas” has
tar and can dirty carburetor. Only when the flame is stable
open the water dripper injected into the nozzle.
The hydrogen from the water thermolysis is expected to come out of this vent. The blower is
disconnected with this vent and replaced by a pipe to connect the gasifier output directly to the
“chargas” filter. The function of the nipple of metal is so that it does not melt with the heat of
the flame.
In this world let's leave a footprint so that humanity does not leave a waste footprint
in this world.

Give Glory to God with doing and saying always and everywhere!
 Page 20 of 20.
FAN IGNITION.
Electrically connect the fan to the 12 Volts of the
motorcycle battery. The fan with the vent can be placed
anywhere at the exit of the gasifier. For example: A)
Connect the fan to the exit of the valve (AFR) in such a
way that it aspires of the same and vent outside. As seen
in the photo. Place this (AFR) valve in position #1, that is
completely open. B) Another way: It is to place the fan
at the exit of the gasifier, as seen in the photo bellow.
Or also after the cooler.
Anyway, this produces the aspiration at the nozzle to
start the ignition with alcohol and torch. Purge the
system until the flame of the "chargas" can be turned
on at the vent and it is stable. Connect the fan outlet to
the “chargas” filter. Purge. Turn off the fan and remove
it. Reconnect. Place the (AFR) valve in position #3 for
"chargas" and turn on the motorcycle engine with the
electric starter or with the starting pedal.

DRIVING ON CHARGAS, RECHARGE OR CHANGE OF FUEL, END OF THE TRIP, DEFINITIVE

TURNING OFF. Read from page 17.
THE ANALYSIS OF THE COMBUSTION GASES that comes out through the exhaust pipe running
only with “chargas” and water gave the following results. Multinet system version 08-05-018.

It can be seen that it is

almost non contaminant
0.03% of CO and with a
contribution of 24.5%
oxygen to the environment.

CONCLUSION: All the vehicles of the world pollute and consume oxygen, but when USING
"CHARGAS" WITH WATER IT ALMOST NOT CONTAMINATING AND PROVIDES OXYGEN!!!
The total cost to convert the bike of this example to run on “chargas” was almost 97 dollars.

THANKS TO: Fabiola Dieguez my wife. Marcelo Rava, Marino Morikawa and Cristian Gonzalez
helpers and great friends.