Hello Dear Amigurumi Lovers!
Thank you very much for choosing us for the Tiny Owl Wizard Amigurumi
pattern. While knitting this sweet Owl Wizard, I wish you to enjoy every
stitch and create a cute friend. Whether you are a beginner or an
experienced knitter, I am with you every step of the way. This Owl Wizard
will come to life in your hands!
If you have any questions or need any help, please don't hesitate to contact
me. I wish you joyful knitting and loving creations.
With love
Silk’s Crochet Pattern’s
Hello Dear Amigurumi Lovers!
Thank you very much for choosing us for the Tiny Owl Wizard Amigurumi
pattern. While knitting this sweet Owl Wizard, I wish you to enjoy every
stitch and create a cute friend. Whether you are a beginner or an
experienced knitter, I am with you every step of the way. This Owl Wizard
will come to life in your hands!
If you have any questions or need any help, please don't hesitate to contact
me. I wish you joyful knitting and loving creations.
With love
Silk’s Crochet Pattern’s
BASIC MATERIALS
yarn. The crochet should be tight, with no gaps
Colored Yarn through which the stuffing can show. A smaller hook
helps achieve this.
For each pattern in this book, we’ve listed the Hooks are generally made of aluminum or steel, and
materials used to create the design, including the metal hooks tend to glide through stitches more
yarn thickness chosen by the designer. However, easily. It's recommended to choose a crochet hook
you’re not limited to the specified yarn weight: you with a rubber or ergonomic handle for better comfort.
can use any cotton, acrylic, or wool yarn as a
Stitch Markers
substitute, as long as you match the correct crochet
hook size to the yarn.
A stitch marker is a small clip, usually made from
metal or plastic. It helps you keep track of your rounds,
The patterns do not specify exact yarn quantities. The
ensuring you have the correct number of stitches.
amount needed is generally small and can vary
Always mark the last stitch of each round with a stitch
depending on how tightly or loosely you crochet. You
marker.
can use leftover yarn from other projects or start with
a new skein. Typically, one or two skeins per color are
FILLING
sufficient.
For stuffing, polyester fiberfill is recommended. You
can buy this at any craft store. It is inexpensive, wash
Crochet Hooks
able and non-allergenic. Be careful not to overstuff
your amigurumi, as the stuffing could stretch the
Not just yarn, but crochet hooks also come in various
fabric and show through.
types and sizes. Larger hooks create bigger stitches
than smaller ones. It's important to use the right
hook size for the yarn weight you’re using. In the
table below, you’ll find the standard hook size
recommended for each yarn weight. However, for
amigurumi, it’s recommended to use a hook that’s
two or three sizes smaller than the one suggested for
your
(Symbol) 1 2 3 4 5 6
Category Name Super fine Fine Light Medium Bulky Super bulky
UK Yarn Type 3 ply 4 ply Double Knit (DK) Aran Chunky Super Chunky
US Yarn Type Fingering Sport Light worsted Worsted Bulky Extra Bulky
Recommended
B-1 to E-4 E-4 to 7 7 to I-9 I-9 to K-10.5 K-10.5 to M-13 M-13 and up
Hook (US)
Metric Hook Size 2.25 to 3.5 mm 3.5 to 4.5 mm 4.5 to 5.5 mm 5.5 to 6.5 mm 6.5 to 9 mm 9 mm and up
(*For amigurumi projects, it’s generally recommended to use a hook two to three sizes smaller than suggested for the yarn
weight.)
Although generally worked in rounds, occasionally we
FACIAL FEATURES switch to rows, and instead of spirals, the line reads
"Row + a number." When we change to rows, it’s
For most patterns, safety eyes are used. These are indicated as "Row + number."
widely available in craft stores. Be careful when At the end of each line, you will find the number of
applying safety eyes: once you put the washer on, you stitches you should have after crocheting, for example
won’t be able to remove it again, so make sure the [9]. If in doubt, take a moment to check your stitch
placement is exactly where you want it before count.
securing the washer. When some parts of the instructions repeat within a
Alternatively, features can be embroidered, which is round, we put them in parentheses, followed by the
recommended if you're crocheting for children under number of times that part needs to be worked. This
three years old. For embroidery, a tapestry needle helps to shorten the pattern and avoid making it seem
with a rounded tip is used. disorganized.
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE STARTING
SAFETY
SKILL LEVEL Please set aside small accessories when the toy is
intended for children under three years of age.
1. easy (¬)
2. intermediate (¬¬)
3. advanced (¬¬¬)
Each pattern is marked with a skill level to indicate
how easy it is to make. If this is your first time making
amigurumi, it’s best to start with an easy pattern and
work your way up to intermediate and advanced
ones.
PATTERN STRUCTURE
All patterns in this book are worked in continuous
spirals, not in joined rounds. Crocheting in spirals can
be confusing since there’s no clear indication of when
one round ends and the next begins. To keep track of
rounds, you can mark the end of a round with a stitch
marker or safety pin. After crocheting the next round,
it should finish just above your last marked stitch.
BASIC POINTS
If this is the first time you make amigurumi, you may find it useful to have a tutorial at hand. With the
stitches explained in the following pages you can make all the amigurumi in this book. We suggest that you
practice the basic stitches before you start making one of the designs. This will help to read the patterns and
abbreviations more comfortably, without having to navigate back to these pages.
CHAIN ( abbreviation: ch)
If you are working in rows, the first row will be a series
of chain stitches. Use the hook to stretch the yarn
through the loop (1) and pull the loop tight (2).
(1) and pull the loop tight (2) . Wrap the yarn over the
hook from back to front. Pull the hook, which carries
the yarn, through the loop already on its hook (3) . You
have now completed a chain stitch. Repeat these
steps as indicated in the pattern to create a
foundation chain (4) .
Single crochet ( abbreviation: sc)
Single crochet is the stitch that will be used most
frequently in this book. Insert the hook into the next
stitch (1) and wrap the yarn over the hook. Pull the
yarn through the stitch (2) . You will see that there
are now two loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over
the hook again and draw through the two loops at
the same time (3) . You have now completed a
single crochet (4) . Insert the hook into the next
stitch to continue (5) .
SLIP Stitch (abbreviation: SLST)
A slip stitch is used to move through one or more
stitches at a time or to finish a piece. Insert the hook
into the next stitch (1) . Wrap the yarn over the hook
and draw through the stitch and loop it on its hook at
a time (2).
DOUBLE TISSUE MEDIUM ( abbreviation: HDC)
When starting a new row of half double crochet, work
two chain stitches to gain height.
two chain stitches to gain height. Bring your yarn
the hook from back to front before placing the hook
on the stitch (1) .
hook in stitch (1) . Wrap the yarn over the hook and
pull the yarn through the stitch. You now have three
loops on the hook (2) . Wrap the thread over the hook
. You have completed your first half double crochet.
To continue video tutorial, bring your yarn over the
hook and insert it into the next stitch (4) .a and loop
on your hook at a time (2) .
DOUBLE CROCHET ( abbreviation: dc)
When starting a new row of double crochet, work
three chain stitches to gain height. Bring your yarn
over the hook from back to front before placing the
hook in stitch (1) . Wrap the yarn over the hook and
draw the yarn through the stitch. You now have three
loops on the hook (2) . Wrap the yarn over the hook
again and pull it through the first two loops on the
hook (3). You now have two loops on the hook. Wrap
the yarn over the hook one last time and draw
through the two loops on the hook (4) . You have now
completed a high stitch. To continue, bring your yarn
over the hook and insert it into the next stitch (5) .
CROCHET TRIPLE ( abbreviation: tr)
When starting a new row of triple crochet, work four
chain stitches to gain height. Bring your yarn over
the hook twice before inserting it into the next stitch
(1).
the next stitch (1) . Wrap the yarn over the hook and
stretch the yarn through the stitch (2) . Wrap the
yarn over the hook again and pull it through the first
two loops on the hook (3) . Repeat this last step twice
(4, 5). You have now completed a triple crochet
stitch. To continue, bring your yarn over the double
hook and insert it in the next
stitch.
INCREMENT ( abbreviation: inc)
To increase make two single crochet stitches in the
next stitch.
INVISIBLE DECREASE (abbreviation: dec)
The invisible decrease method will make your
decrease stitch look much like the other stitches in
the row, resulting in a smooth and even crochet
fabric. Insert the hook into the
front loop of your first stitch. Then immediately insert
your hook into the front loop of the second stitch (1) .
You now have three loops on the hook. Wrap the
yarn over the hook and draw through the first two
loops on the hook (2) . Wrap the yarn again and draw
through the remaining two loops on your hook (3) .
You have now completed an invisible decrease.
INVISIBLY DECREASE 3 stitches at a time (
abbreviation: sc3tog)
at a time ( abbreviation: sc3tog )
Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next
three stitches (1) . This gives you four loops on the
hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw
through the first three loops on the hook. Wrap the
yarn over the hook again and pull through the
remaining two loops on the hook (3) . You have now
completed a sc3tog.
FRONT curlers only (abbreviation: FLO)
AND BACK purls only (abbreviation: BLO)
When making a crochet stitch, you end up with two loops
at the top of the stitch, a front loop towards you (1) and a
back loop away from you (2) . When asked to crochet or
FLO BLO you take the same stitch but leave one loop
untouched.
CROCHET AROUND A FOUNDATION CHAIN
Some pieces start with an oval instead of a circle. You
make an oval by knitting around a foundation chain
instead of crocheting in a magic ring. Knit a
foundation chain with as many chains as mentioned
in the pattern. Skip the first chain on the hook (1) and
work a sc stitch in the next chain stitch (2, 3). Work
your crochet stitches in each chain across as
mentioned in the pattern. The last stitch before
returning is usually an increase stitch (4). Now, turn
your work inside out to work on the bottom of the
chain stitches. You will notice that only one loop is
available, simply insert the hook into this loop (5).
Work the stitches in each chain widthwise. When you
finish, the last stitch should be next to the first stitch
you made (6). Now you can continue working in
MAGIC RING
A magic ring is the ideal way to start knitting in the
round. You start by knitting over an adjustable loop
and finally tighten the loop tight when you have
finished the required number of stitches. The
advantage of this method is that there is no gap left in
the middle of your starting round.
Start with the crossed yarn to form a circle (1) .
Establish a loop with your hook, but not too tight (2) .
Hold the circle with your index finger and thumb and
wrap the working yarn over your middle finger (3) .
over your middle finger (3) . Make a chain stitch by
wrapping the yarn over the hook and pulling it
through the loop on your hook
(4, 5) . Now insert the hook into the loop and
underneath the tail. Wrap the yarn over the hook and
draw up a loop (6) . Wrap the yarn over the hook
again
(7)
and draw through the two loops on the hook. You
have now completed your first single crochet stitch
(8) . Continue to crochet (repeating step 6, 7, 8) until
you have the required number of stitches as
mentioned in the pattern. Now grab the yarn tail and
pull to pull out the center of the ring tightly closed (9,
10) . Now you can start the second round of crochet in
the first single crochet stitch of the magic ring. You
can use a stitch marker to remind you of the starting
point. If this technique is not preferred, you can start
each piece using the following technique: CH 2, x sc in
the second chain of the hook - where x is the number
of stitches sc will make in your magic ring.
BASIC POINTS
If this is the first time you make amigurumi, you may
find it useful to have a tutorial at hand. With the
stitches explained in the following pages you can
make all the amigurumi in this book. We suggest that
you practice the basic stitches before you start
making one of the designs. This will help to read the
patterns and abbreviations more comfortably,
without having to navigate back to these pages.
BOBBLE STITCH
The Bobble stitch creates a soft, rounded shape. Think
of it as a set of double crochet stitches worked into
the same stitch. Yarn over from back to front before
inserting the hook into the stitch (1). Yarn over and
pull the yarn through the stitch. You now have three
loops on the hook. Yarn over again and pull through
the first two loops on the hook. A half-finished double
crochet is complete, and two loops remain on the
hook (2). In the same stitch, repeat the previous steps
two more times. You should now have four loops on
the hook. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on
the hook (3). A 3-double crochet Bobble stitch is
complete. Create a Bobble stitch with the largest
number of double crochet stitches as indicated in the
pattern.
PICOT STITCH
Make three chain stitches. Insert the hook into the
first chain stitch you made (1) , wrap the yarn around
your hook and draw through the two loops on the
hook. A purl stitch is complete (2).
CRAB Stitch or low stitch
REVERSE
At the end of the single crochet row, do not turn your
work - you will be working from left to right. Insert the
hook into the first stitch to the right (1). Wrap the yarn
around the hook and pull up one loop
(2) . The new stitch is to the left of the loop originally
on the hook. Pull up one loop and pull it through the
two loops on the hook (3) .
FRENCH KNOT
The French knot is a stitch stitch. Insert a threaded
sewing needle from the back to the front through the
stitch where you want the knot to show. Hold the tip
of the needle flat against your crochetwork and wrap
the thread around the needle twice (1). Carefully pull
the needle through these loops so that you end up
with a double knot. Insert the needle into the crochet
stitch next to the knot (2) - not in the same stitch, as
this will make the knot disappear - and secure it at
the back.
CAMBIO DE COLOR INVISIBLE
Cuando se quiere cambiar de un color a otro, se
trabaja para dentro de dos puntos ante un cambio de
color. Realiza el siguiente punto, como de costumbre,
pero no tire el último bucle a través (1). En su lugar,
envuelva el nuevo color de la lana alrededor de su
gancho y tire de ella a través de los bucles restantes
(2). Para hacer un cambio de color ordenado, puede
hacer que el primer punto en el nuevo color de una
hoja de puntada en lugar de un único punto de
ganchillo. No tire de la puntada del resbalón
demasiado apretado o será difícil de crochet en la
siguiente ronda. Ate las colas de hilo sueltos en un
nudo y dejarlos en el interior.
FINISHING OFF
When you have finished crocheting, cut the yarn a
few inches/cm from your last stitch. Pull the yarn
through the last loop until it’s pulled all the way
through (1). You now have a finished knot. Thread the
long tail through a tapestry needle and insert the
needle through the back loop of the next stitch (2).
This way, the finishing knot will remain invisible on
your completed piece. You can use this piece of yarn
to continue sewing the pieces together.
Materials Body (Light orange or cream color yarn)
Colors for the owl, cape and hat:
use crochet 3.0 mm
light orange or cream
gray, cream white, brown
Color for beak and legs: yellow Rnd 1: 6 Sc in a MR (6)
For the circle decoration of the
hat, color: orange
Rnd 2: 6 Inc (12)
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm and 3.0 Rnd 3: (1 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (18)
mm (Each part specifies which Rnd 4: (2 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (24)
one to use)
Tapestry neddle Rnd 5: (3 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (30)
Safety eyes 2 pcs 10 mm Rnd 6: (4 Sc ,1 Inc) x 6 (36)
B-6000 adhesive or hot melt
Rnd 7: (5 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (42)
glue
Fiber filling Rnd 8: (6 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (48)
Scissors Rnd 9-12: 48 Sc (48) (4 Rnds)
Finished Size :
Rnd 13: (6 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (42)
Rnd 14: (5 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (36)
6 Inc / 15 cm Rnd 15-16: 36 Sc (36) (2 Rnds)
Skill Level ** Rnd 17: (5 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (42)
Rnd 18: (6 Sc, 1 Inc) x 6 (48)
Rnd 19-22: 48 Sc (48) (4 Rnds)
Abbreviations:
mr: magic ring Rnd 23: (6 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (42)
ch: chain Rnd 24: (5 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (36)
dc: double crochet
dec: decrease (work 2 sts
Rnd 25: (4 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (30)
together) Rnd 26: (3 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (24)
sc (dc): single (double) crochet Rnd 27: (2 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (18) Start Filling
inc: increase (work 2 sc (dc) in
one st) Rnd 28: (1 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (12)
flo: front loop only Rnd 29: 6 Dec (6) Close with a tapestry needle, cut the
blo : back loop only
yarn, weave in end.
x: parenthesis indicates how
many times the action is
repeated - ()
Eyes (White color yarn)
use crochet 3.0 mm
Rnd 1: 6 Sc in a MR (6) Close with Sl st
Rnd 2: 2 Ch, (2 Dc) x 6 (13) Close with Sl st. Leave a long tail, cut the yarn.
Cape (Gray color yarn)
Work this part in rows, make 1 chain at the end and turn the fabric.
Use 3.0 mm crochet.
Rows 3-7 are FLO.
Row 1: 37 Ch (37)
Row 2: From the 2nd chain 36 Sc (36)
Row 3: 1 Dec, (3 Sc, 1 Inc) x 8, 1 Dec (42) FLO
Row 4: 1 Dec, 38 Sc, 1 Dec (40) FLO
Row 5: 1 Dec, (3 Sc, 1 Inc) x 9, 1 Dec (47) FLO
Row 6: 1 Dec, 43 Sc, 1 Dec (45) FLO
Row 7: 1 Dec, 41 Sc, 1 Dec (43) FLO
Make a round around the sides and bottom of the cape
To make the top of the cape follow the instructions:
Start at the top of the cape.
Rows 1-3: 36 Sc (36)
After making the first 3 rows, go back to row 2 and make 36 Sl st
all over the back of the row. Do not cut the yarn.
With a new thread and a tapestry needle sew Row 3 to Row 1 to
make the thick part of the cape.
Hat (Gray color)
Make 36 Chain, close with Sl st to work in Rounds. Close each round
with Sl st and make a chain to start each round.
Use 3.0 mm crochet.
Rnd 1-2: 36 Sc (36) (2 Rnds)
Rnd 3: (4 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (30)
Rnd 4-6: 30 Sc (30) (3 Rnds)
Rnd 7: (3 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 8-9: 24 Sc (24) (2 Rnds)
Rnd 10: (2 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (18)
Rnd 11-13: 18 Sc (18) (3 Rnds)
Rnd 14: (1 Sc, 1 Dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 15-17: 12 Sc (12) (3 Rnds)
Rnd 18: (1 Sc, 1 Dec) x 4 (8)
Rnd 19-21: 8 Sc (8) (3 Rnds)
Rnd 22: (2 Sc, 1 Dec) x 2 (6)
Rnd 23: 6 Inc (12) Cut the yarn, weave in end.
To make the brim of the hat, on the first round of the hat work the
following:
Rnd 1: (1 Sc, 1 Inc) x 18 (54)
Rnd 2-7: 54 Sc (54) (6 Rnds)
Beak and Legs (Yellow color yarn)
Work this part in Rows. Make a chain at the end and turn.
Use 2.0 mm crochet.
BEAK:
Row 1: 4 Ch (3)
Row 2: From the second chain 1 Inc, 1 Sc, 1 Inc (5)
Row 3: 1 Inc, 3 Sc, 1 Inc (7). Cut the yarn. roll like the images below
and sew with a tapestry needle.
Beak and Legs (Yellow color yarn)
Use 2.0 mm crochet.
LEGS: (make 2):
Row 1: 4 Ch (3)
Row 2: From the second chain 3 Sc (3)
Row 3: 1 Inc, 1 Sc, 1 Inc (5)
Row 4: 1 Inc, 3 Sc, 1 Inc (7).
Row 5: 1 Inc, 5 Sc, 1 Inc (9) Cut the yarn. Join the sides to form a
triangle and sew with a tapestry needle.
Assembling
Put the cape on the owl's body, with the flap sticking out.
Make four chains using the leftover thread to connect the sides
of the cape.
Go back over the four chains with slip stitches.
Cut the thread and hide the end.
Assembling
Place the eye circles on the opposite side to the one you
crocheted, next to the cape, 1 point away.
sew them with a tapestry needle and a strand of thread
around the white part, glue the safety eyes in the middle.
Assembling
Fold the tip of the hat
Take a needle and push it from inside to outside in round 8,
starting from the tip of the hat.
Pass the needle through round 7 and through the hat again.
Then, guide the needle down through the hat.
Pull the thread out through the round where the brim of the
hat starts.
Pull the thread tight.
Use this thread to sew the hat to the owl's head.
Your Owl is Ready!
Place the legs under the owl, between rounds 3 and 6 from the
magic ring, 2 stitches apart. Sew with a tapestry needle and a yellow thread.
Make a bowtie with brown thread, and glue in the middle of the
part that connects the cape.
Sew the beak between the eyes so the tip will reach the cape.
Place orange thread around the circle of the brown decoration
of the hat, and glue it.
Assembling
Hat decoration:
Make a chain of 31 stitches and position them around the
bottom edge of the hat, with the threads at the back of the hat.
Make another chain of 33 stitches and place them next to the
previous chain, but this time, make sure the threads are at the
front of the hat.
Create a small circle decoration. Once done, cut the yarn and
weave in the loose end to secure it.
Thank You!
Thank you so much for purchasing my Owl Wizard amigurumi pattern! I
hope you enjoyed crocheting this cute Owl Wizard. I believe that each
handmade piece has its own unique beauty, and it brings me great joy
to contribute to this project shaped by your creativity.
Please feel free to share your work with me. I would be thrilled to see
the photos of the Owl Wizard you've made! Stay connected and follow
my social media accounts to stay updated on new projects.
If you have any questions about the pattern, feel free to send me a
message on Etsy.
Also, I would truly appreciate it if you could take a moment to leave a
review and share your thoughts. Your feedback helps me improve and
inspires others to join in the fun!
With love and inspiration.
Your Owl is Ready!
