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ISLA
Beginner Sewing Pattern | Size Inclusive | Style #6
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Contents

Sewing Glossary • 3
Sewing Supplies • 3
Sewing Pattern • 4-5
Cutting the Fabric • 6
Garment Construction • 6 - 11
Notes • 12

This pattern is for personal use only and is not to be reproduced, distributed or copied in
part or in whole. Nor is it to be used to sell garments that you have made from this
sewing pattern.

Download of this pattern entitles you to use the patterns for individual home use only.

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Do you need some extra help?

Email [email protected] for assistance!

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Sewing Glossary

Back Tack
Sew two or three stitches backwards over the start and end of a stitch line to prevent it from
unravelling.

CF/CB
CF is the centre front of the garment and it goes right down the middle. The CB is the centre back of
the garment going right down the middle.

Cross Grain
The cross grain runs perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric.

Overlock
Using either an overlocker (serger) or using a zigzag stitch on the raw edges of fabric to prevent
fraying.

Press
Neaten sewn seams by using a hot iron directly on them for a few seconds. Press seam allowances
either open or to one side depending on the instructions. Do this on both wrong and right sides of
the fabric.

Right Side / Wrong Side

The right side of the fabric is what you see on the outside of the garment. The wrong side of the
fabric is what is on the inside of the garment.

Seam Allowance
The space between the stitching line and the edges of the fabric. This pattern allows for a 1cm (3/8”)
seam allowance.

Selvedge
The self finished edges of the fabric that run lengthways along the whole of the fabric. It is on two
edges of your fabric, not the cut edges, but the finished edges.

Straight Grain
The straight grain runs parallel to the selvedge of the fabric.

Topstitch
Stitches that are visible on the outside of the garment when sewn (eg. a hemline or around binding).

Sewing Supplies

• Fabric
• Elastic 0.6cm (1/4”) wide
• Matching thread
• Sewing machine and basic tools

The Isla sundress & top works great in light to medium weight, both knit and woven fabric such as
viscose, linen, shirting, cotton lawn, jersey, velvet, gingham, tencel etc. If choosing knit fabrics,
opt for a 2 way stretch rather than 4 way stretch to prevent vertical drag.

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Sewing Pattern
This sewing pattern is made up of rectangles based on your body measurements. You can cut this
either on the straight grain or the cross grain of the fabric.

Cutting the dress/top pattern piece on the cross grain will usually allow you to cut one rectangular
piece with just one seam at the CB. Take care using this method if using directional print fabric as
the print may not be facing the correct way up.

Cutting the dress/top pattern piece on the straight grain might mean cutting two rectangular
pieces depending on your measurements. Using this method would mean having two side seams
instead of one seam at the CB.

High bust High bust

Middle elastic Under bust

NOTE: If your total dress/top width is larger than the width of your fabric, you’ll need to cut two
rectangles and have two side seams instead of one seam at the CB.

For example, if the width of the dress/top is 208cm (82”) and the width of your fabric is 150cm
(60”) then you’ll need to cut two rectangles. To do this, simply half the width of your dress/top
measurement. So in this example, it would be 104cm (41”) as the width and you’d cut two of these.
This also applies to the middle elastic channel pattern piece.

When measuring for the length for the dress, keep in mind that the length will shorten a little
when adding the middle elastic. You may wish to add more to the length to compensate for this.
Desired length of the dress is from high bust to hem length.

To measure bust depth, place a measuring tape at your high bust and measure to where a bra
would sit on your ribs, under your bust. Make this measurement loose otherwise the top will squish
your bust! For children’s measurements, the depth would be however long you want the top.

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Dress/long top Pattern Piece

Cut x1
Desired length
+ 3cm top seam allowance
+ 2cm bottom seam allowance
Eg. 101.5cm (40”) desired length + 5cm (2”) = 106.5cm (42”)

LENGTH
WIDTH

Full bust (chest)/waist/hip circumference (whichever is largest) x 1.75

Eg. 119cm (47”) hip x 1.75 = 208cm (82”)

Middle Elastic Channel Pattern Piece

(for dress/long top version only)
Cut x1
3cm (1.25”)

Same width as dress

Strap Pattern Piece

(both dress/top version)
Cut x4
4cm (1.5”) for skinny ties
6cm (2.3”) for thicker ties

60cm (23.5”) for adults

40cm (15.75”) for children

Top Pattern Piece

Cut x1 Depth of bust
+ 3cm (1.25”) top seam allowance
+ 3cm (1.25”) bottom seam allowance
LENGTH

Eg. 23cm (9”) depth of bust + 6cm (2.4”) = 29cm (11.5”)

WIDTH

Full bust (chest) circumference x 1.75

Eg. 101.5cm (40”) bust (chest) x 1.75 = 178cm (70”)

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Preparing & Cutting Your Fabric

You can draw the pattern shapes straight onto the fabric using chalk or washable fabric
pens. Lay your fabric out flat on the table. Using the selvedges as a guide for right angles,
measure the shapes and cut the fabric out using a rotary cutter and cutting mat, or fabric
scissors.

If your fabric looks the same on both the right and wrong sides, I suggest making an X on
the wrong side in chalk.

Are you ready? Let’s sew!

Sew seams together with a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance, back tacking at the start and
end of stitches, unless the step indicates otherwise.

1. Sew dress/top seams together

This step is the same regardless of whether you have one CB seam or two side seams.
If you have two side seams, simply repeat all of step 1.

Wrong sides together, sew down the CB or side seam.

Trim the seam allowance to 0.3cm (1/8”). Press the seam to one side.

Turn so right sides are together and press seam flat. Sew the same CB seam or side seams
with a 0.5cm (1/4”) seam allowance. This is called a french seam.

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Alternatively, you can sew the CB seam or side seams as regular seams right sides
together and use an overlocker or zig zag stitch to finish the raw edges.

Your dress/top will now look like one large circular tube.

2. Sew top channel for elastic

Press top edge in by 1cm (3/8”). Fold over again by 2cm (3/4”) and press.

Sew one row of stitches 0.7cm (1/4”) from top edge, all the way around. Sew a second row of stitches
1cm (3/8”) from previous row of stitches. Leave a 2.5cm (1”) gap to slide the elastic through.

If you’re making the top version, repeat this step for the hem, and move onto step 5.
If you’re making the dress or long top version, continue working through the steps.

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3. Sew middle channel for elastic

You may decide not to add middle elastic for a floaty dress look.
In which case, skip this step and move to step 5.

Fold long edges inwards on the channel pattern piece so they meet in the middle, and press. Open
the creases up, right sides together, sew short edges together. Press seam open and press creases
back into place. Repeat this if you have two side seams. You will end up with one continuous loop.

4. Add the middle channel

You can add the middle channel either under the bust or around the waist depending on what you
prefer. If you want it under the bust, measure the bust depth going from high bust to under bust where
your bra would sit on your ribs. If you want it around your waist, measure from high bust to waist.

Mark this measurement on the wrong side from the top of the top channel and pin the top of the
middle channel in position. Measure this all around, pinning into position. Match the CB seam with the
seam on the channel or match the side seams with the seams on the channel.

Sew one row of stitches all around 0.2cm (0.05”) from the edge of the channel. Sew a second row
of stitches 1cm (3/8”) from previous row of stitches. Leave a 2.5cm (1”) gap to slide the elastic
through.

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5. Add elastic

To measure the elastic, wrap it around your high bust so it’s snug but not too tight and cut
the desired length. If you’re making the top version, repeat this process under the bust for
the hem. If you’re making the dress or long top version and adding a middle channel,
repeat this process where the channel is (either under bust or around the waist).

Mark the CF and CB of the top/dress with a pin (you will need this later). Using a safety pin, thread
the elastic through the channels. Secure one end of the elastic while threading it through so you
don't lose it in your channel and sew the elastic together using a zigzag stitch.

You may wish to try the dress/top on now to make sure you’re happy with the fit before closing up
the gap. Once you’re happy with the fit, sew the channel closed, stretching the elastic as you go.

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6. Sew the tie straps

Fold 1cm (3/8”) inwards on both long sides of the ties. Press, fold the tie in half, and press again.

On one of the shorter ends we want to hide the raw edge. Unfold the end, then fold it inwards
1cm (3/8”) and fold the long sides back in to trap the raw edges.

Sew down the strap close to the long edge, pivot the fabric, and sew along the folded short end.

Repeat on all 4 ties.

7. Add the tie straps

Try the dress/top on, make sure the CB pin is in the middle of your back and the CF pin is
in the middle of your chest. It might be helpful to try it on with a bra if you want the
straps to cover bra straps. Pin the straps onto the dress/top where you want them to go.
You will have two straps at the front and two straps at the back.

Take the dress/top off and make sure the straps are evenly spaced. Measure from the CF outwards
to make sure each strap on the front is the same distance from the CF. Repeat this process on the
back to make sure the back straps are evenly spaced from the CB.

Fold the raw edge inwards on the straps, line up the bottom of the strap with the bottom of the
channel. Stretch the elastic and sew the strap onto the dress in a square shape.

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Tie the front and back straps together in a bow.

8. Hem the dress

Press the hem 1cm (3/8”) up, fold 1cm (3/8”) up again and press. Topstitch all around.

Congratulations!
You’ve just sewn the Isla!

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#islasundress #cinnamondaisypatterns
Don’t forget to tag @cinnamondaisystudio 🖤
11.
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Notes for next time...

How did your make go? Do you need to remember anything for next time? Use the space
below to make notes.

12.
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