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D.I.Y. SERVICE
Owners Handbook/Maintenance Manual APPROVED AND RECOMMENDED

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Fioutine Maintenance 0 MOT Preparationo Fauit Finding Repairs

by P. Ward
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~9 MAY 1977
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BOOK No.

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This book must be returned on or before the date shown above
to the Library from which it was borrowed
LANCASHIRE COUNTY LIBRARY
| 143 CORPORATION STREET, PRESTON, PR1 8RH

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Rover 2000
Covers all models 1963 onwards

Owners Handbook Maintenance Manual

by P Ward

HAYNES 7Op
 N6000188

Acknowledgements
Special thanks are due to BLMC (Rover)
for their co-operation with information
and illustrations and to Castrol Limited

A handbook in the Haynes Owners

Handbook and Maintenance Manual
series

Edited by Stanley Randolph

©s H Haynes and Company Limited 1973

Published by J H Haynes and Company Limited

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset

“Set in 10 point IBM Univers Medium

Printed in England

SBN O 85696 151 5

Contents

Introduction

Model Identification

Specifications, Dimensions, Weights,

Capacities

Road Test Data

Tools
Spares and Touring Pack
Lubrication

What you need to know about your

car
Routine Maintenance

Other Maintenance

Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning

and minor repairs 45
Preparing your Car for the MOT Test 51

Sane and Selling a used Rover

2000 53
Wiring Diagrams 58
Fault Finding 71
Metric Conversion Tables 103
Index 106
Aemejng Buimesp
40 943 4aA0y 000Z
Introduction
This handbook is intended for the owner
who wishes to find out more about his car and
wants to keep it serviced fully, but with the
minimum of effort, so that it provides economi-
cal, reliable transport.
In this handbook are all the routine main-
tenance tasks required to keep the car running
well, and the tools and other things needed to
do them.
All cars over three years old are subject to
the official roadworthiness test. Details of what
the tester will be looking for, and how to check
them yourself are given, along with guidance in
looking at secondhand cars.
Cars are not perfect, and diagnosing faults
can be a great problem; therefore a methodical
guide to fault finding is given. Much time and
trouble can be saved if reference is made
straight to this book instead of hopping from
one thing to another.
If success in tackling the jobs on your car,
given in this book, encourages you to take on
more complicated work, a very useful Owners
Workshop Manual is available from the
publishers, or through all good accessory shops
or booksellers.
42004 000ZDS
Model Identification
The Rover 2000 was introduced in October
1963. It has a 1978 cc chain driven single over-
head camshaft engine with a five main bearing
crankshaft, which drives the rear wheels via a
remotely controlled four-speed all synchromesh
gearbox and hypoid geared final drive unit.
September 1966 saw the introduction for
the UK market, of a more powerful version
designated TC and an Automatic model
embodying the proven Borg-Warner model 35
transmission system. Minor changes to various
components have been introduced throughout
the production run but the first body restyling
was carried out in September 1970.
The car is a four seater luxury saloon, with
all wing panels and mechanical components
bolted to a chassis skeleton. Hide upholstery,
protective bodywork undersealing, radial tyres
and hydraulically operated disc brakes on all
four wheels are standard equipment.
Suspension is independant at the front and
semi-independent at the rear, with unsprung
weight being kept to a minimum by mounting
the final drive unit to the base frame. A De
Dion tube is used.
IL 0007 42004
Specifications, Dimensions, Weights and Capacities
Engine
Bore 8.57 crn (3.375 in.)
Stroke 8.57 cm (3.375 in.)
Number of cylinders Four
Cylinder capacity 1978 cc (120.8 cu. in.)
Compression ratio 9.0: 1 (TC: - 10.0: 1)
BHP (gross) 99 (TC: - 124) at 5500 rev/min
Firing order Sythe &
Spark plugs Champion N9Y (SC and Automatic)
Champion N6Y (TC before Sept. 1970)
Champion N7Y (TC after Sept. 1970)
Spark plug gap 0.60 mm (0.025 in.)
Ignition timing (static and dynamic at
550 to 600 rev/min) 4° BTDC (SC and Automatic)
Ignition timing (static and dynamic at
700 to 750 rev/min) 6° BTDC (TC)
Fuel octane rating 95 - 97, 4star (TC:- 100, 5 star)
Tappet clearance, cold (inlet) 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
(exhaust) 0.30 mm (0.013 in)
Oil pressure (warm engine) 3.5 to 4.2 kg/cm2 (50 to 60 Ib/sq in) at 30 mph
in top gear
Lubrication Full pressure
Oil filter, internal Gauze pump intake filter in sump
Oil filter, external Full flow, replaceable canister

Clutch
Type Hydraulically operated diaphragm spring, single
dry plate, 215 mm (8.5 in) diameter

Gearbox
Type 4 speed and reverse, with synchromesh on all
forward speeds

Automatic transmission (where applicable)

Type Borg-Warner model 35
Torque converter Three element, hydrokinetic with infinitely
variable torque multiplication between 2:1 and
1:1
Gearbox Torque-speed responsive, hydraulically operated
planetary gear set with three forward speeds
and reverse
10 Specifications, Dimensions, Weights and Capacities

Gear ratios 4 speed Automatic

Top 1.0: 1 High 1.0:1
Third iesoeat Intermediate 1.45: 1
Second Pies Wein Low 2.39: 1
First 3.62: 1 Reverse 2:09 "1
Reverse 3.43: 1

Overall ratios
Top 3.54: 1 High 3.54: 1
Third 4.92: 1 Intermediate 5.13: 1
Second 7.55: 1 Low 8.46 :1
First 12.83: 1 Reverse Teal
Reverse 12.14: 1

Final drive unit

Type Hypoid crownwheel and bevel pinion
Ratio 3.54: 1

Propeller shaft
Type Open, Hardy Spicer with one lubrication point

Fuel system
Fuel pump AC mechanical
Carburettor Single SU type HS6 or
Twin SU type HD8 or
Twin SU type HS8 (late models)
Air cleaner Paper element type

Cooling system
Type Pressurised, with pump, fan and thermostat
Pressure cap setting
Early models 5 Ib/in2 (0.35 kg/cm2)
Later models 7 Ib/in2 (0.5 kg/cm2)
Fan belt adjustment 8 to 11 mm (0.312 to 0.437 in) free movement

Electrical system
Type Positive earth (cars prior to suffix letter D)
Negative earth (cars with suffix letter D on-
wards, and TC)
Battery voltage 12 volt
Battery capacity 60 AH at 20 hour rate

Dynamo*
Type Lucas C42—22910
Current voltage regulator
Type Lucas RB340—37517

Alternator*
Type Lucas 11AC
Output control unit
Type Lucas 4TR
Field isolating relay
Type Lucas 6RA
Alternator warning light control
Type Lucas 3AW
 Specifications, Dimensions, Weights and Capacities 11
SL I ga a ee
Alternator *
Type Lucas 18 ACR

*denotes alternative charging systems

Starter motor
Inertia type M418G—25521D (SC) or
M45G—26164A (TC)
Pre-engaged type LU M418G (Automatics)

Windscreen wiper
Type Lucas 6W (or DL3A from suffix letter D on-
wards)

Screen washer
Type Lucas 4SJ

Mixture control thermostatic switch

Makes contact at 51 to 55°C (124 to 131°F)
Breaks contact at 410. 63°C: (47-10. 127°°)

Ignition system
Coil type Lucas HA12 (SC and TC)
Lucas BA7 or 16C6 (Automatics)
Distributor type Lucas 25D4 41085, vacuum advance unit
54411462 (TC)
Lucas 25D4 41119, vacuum advance unit
54411589 (SC and Automatic)
Distributor contact breaker gap 0.014 to 0.016 in (0.35 to 0.40 mm)

Front suspension
Type Independent leading link with horizontal coil
spring

Rear suspension
Type Semi-independent coil spring with De Dion
tube and Watts linkage

Suspension dampers
Type Hydraulic, telescopic, non-adjustable

Steering
Type Adamant hour-glass worm and roller followers
Ratio 20.3: 1, 3.75 turns lock to lock
Front wheel alignment 3.0 mm (0.125 in) toe-in + 1.6 mm (0.062 in)

Braking system
Type Hydraulically operated with vacuum servo, self-
adjusting
Front brakes Dunlop or Girling outboard discs
Rear brakes Dunlop or Girling inboard discs
Handbrake Mechanical linkage, self-adjusting, with separate
pads on Dunlop system or integral with rear
footbrake on Girling system
12 Specifications, Dimensions, Weights and Capacities
a ee anne ae alas Se Neer ee NE NH SHELTER Sm

Wheels
Type 5J x 14 in, steel disc. (Wire spoke wheels have
been available as an option)

Tyres
Size 165 x 14 radial ply only
Pressure, normal loads 26 Ib/in2 (1.8 kg/cm2), front
28 Ib/in2 (1.9 kg/cm2), rear
fully loaded 26 Ib/in2 (1.8 kg/cm2), front
32 Ib/in2 (2.2 kg/cm2), rear

Bulbs
Inner headlamp LU54522973, 37.5W sealed beam unit
Inner headlamp (after Sept. 1970) Lucas 12V 75W sealed beam unit
Outer headlamp LU54521806, 50/37.5W sealed beam unit
Side lamp Lucas No.989, 6W
Side lamp (after Sept. 1970) Lucas No.233, 4W
Stop/tail lamp Lucas No.380, 6/21W
Direction indicator lamp Lucas No.382, 21W
Rear number plate lamp Lucas No.989, 6W
Rear number plate lamp (after Sept. 1970) Lucas 233, 4W
Instrument panel light Lucas No.987, 2.2W
Instrument panel lights (SC, after Sept. 1970) Lucas No.984, 3.6W
Instrument panel lights (TC, after Sept. 1970) 12V , 2.2W capless
Warning lights Lucas No.643, 2.2W
Warning lights (suffix D onwards) Lucas No.984, 3.6W
Warning lights (SC, after Sept. 1970) Lucas No.643, 2.2W
Warning lights (TC, after Sept. 1970) 12V, 3W capless
Interior lights, festoon bulb Lucas No.254, 6W
Interior light (after Sept. 1970) Lucas No.272, 10W
Map reading lamp Lucas No.254, 6W
Map reading lamp (after Sept. 1970) Lucas No.233, 4W
Clock Lucas No.281, 2W
Reverse lamps Lucas No.382, 21W
Rear luggage boot lamp Lucas No.209, 6W
Tachometer Lucas No.987, 2.2W
Switch panel, festoon bulb Lucas No.254, 6W
Selector light (automatic transmission) Lucas No.254, 6W
Selector light (after Sept. 1970) Lucas No.256, 3W
Hazard warning light Lucas No.281, 2W
Heated rear window switch light Lucas No.281, 2W

Dimensions
Overall length 4.55m).(14 ft 1123 in) SGC
4.59 m (15 ft 0.5 in), TC
Overall width 1.68m (5 ft 6 in)
Overall height 1.4 m (4 ft 7.25 in)
Wheelbase 2.63 m (8 ft 7.38 in)
Track, front 1.35 m (4 ft 5.38 in)
Track, rear 1.33m (4 ft 4.5 in)
Ground clearance 21.6 cm (8.5 in)
Turning circle 9.6 m (31.5 ft)
 Specifications, Dimensions, Weights and Capacities 13

Weights
With water, oil and 22.5 litres (5 gallons) of ) 1245 kg (2774 Ib), SC
fuel ) 1282 kg (2827 Ib), TC
) 1267 kg (2793 |b.), Automatic Transmission

Roof rack load, maximum 50 kg (112 Ib)

Towing weight, maximum 1250 kg (2800 Ib)

Capacities
Engine sump (including filter) 9 pints (4.5 litres)
Extra for oil cooler (where fitted) 1 pint (0.5 litres)
Gearbox (manual) 1.75 pints (1.0 litre)
Gearbox (automatic) including oil cooler 11.25 pints (6.4 litres)
Final drive unit 2.25 pints (1.25 litres)
Fuel tank (including reserve) 12 gallons (55 litres)
Reserve supply 1.25 gallons (6 litres) early models
2.5 gallons (12 litres) later. models
Cooling system 14 pints (8 litres)
 14

42A0y4 00029S auibua

Road test data
Rover 2000 SC Rover 2000 TC
Maximum speed (mph) 99 109
Cruising speed (mph) 85 95
Cruising range (miles) 285 260
Maximum speed in gears: 3rd 83 88
2nd 55 60
1st 31 34

Acceleration through gears (seconds)

0-30 mph 4.3
0-40 mph 6.7
0-50 mph 9.7
0-60 mph 13.6
0-70 mph 19.6

Standing % mile (seconds) 19:35

Average fuel consumption (mpg) 22.9
Consumption at 50 mph (mpg) 36
Tools
To carry out the routine maintenance tasks
in this book you will obviously need a reason-
able set of tools. A really comprehensive tool
kit will be expensive to purchase at one go -
most home mechanics have built up a kit over
the years as they have tackled new and more
complicated maintenance and repair work. This
way the cost is spread out. Remember though,
it does not pay to buy cheap tools; they may
break and damage yourself and the car. Tool
factors are to be found in most towns, so talk
things over with the proprietor. Tell him you
are not interested in buying rubbish and he will
think more of you and tell you what is value
for money.
The following list suggests the tools required
to undertake the work detailed in this book, so
when you've got them, keep them together
where you know they can be found (preferably
in the car); you sometimes need them at the
most inconvenient times:—
Set of combination spanners (ring one end,
open ended the other) to cover the range
5/16 to % inch AF
Open ended spanners 2 to 6BA
Adjustable spanner, 10 inch, parrot jaw
Spark plug spanner
Pair of 6 inch pliers
Screwdriver, medium 8 inch
Screwdriver, crosshead 8 inch
Screwdriver, small electrical
Brake bleed nipple spanner
Set of feeler gauges
File, medium cross-cut, with handle
Hand cleanser (Swarfega)
Overalls
Clean, non-fluffy rag
Besides this list, always keep an adequate
supply of the oils, greases, etc, which are listed
in the Lubricants Section of this Handbook.
Spares and Touring Pack
Before undertaking any long journey, Spark plug (at least one)
whether in this country or abroad, it is advis- Tyre pressure gauge
able to thoroughly check your car and its Tyre pump
contents. It is better to service the car early, Jack and handle
before the exact required time if necessary, Wheelbrace
rather than put it off until your return. Break- Distributor rotor, condenser and contact set
down services, accredited dealers and spare part The tools listed on the previous page.
availability for your Rover 2000 are not always Additionally, always ensure that the spare
there when you need them, particularly abroad wheel is in the car, inflated to the maximum
and in outlying districts of Great Britain. pressure you are likely to need (see specifi-
The following lists of spares and touring cations).
packs indicate firstly those which should always
be carried in the car, and secondly those which Also carry, when going abroad:-
it is advisable to carry if undertaking a journey The items listed under ‘Always carry’
abroad. Some dealers are able to supply Tow rope
manufacturers recommended touring packs on Spare set of light bulbs
a hire/buy-if-you-use basis. Set of spark plugs
Spare schrader valves
Always carry:- Set of radiator hoses
This handbook Radiator sealer
First aid kit and manual Set of fuses
Spare set of keys (not in the car) Length of ignition HT cable
Gallon can of fuel Fire extinguisher
List of Rover main agents Tube of gasket cement
Breakdown triangle (compulsory on the Tin of Castrol Girling Universal Clutch
continent) and Brake Fluid
Torch with red flashing dome 1 quart of GTX oil
Fan belt Cylinder head gasket set
Finilec puncture sealer Any additional tools you think you may
Roll of PVC insulating tape need
Temporary plastic windscreen Adequate set of maps
Length of heavy duty lighting cable List of Rover main agents abroad.
18

Lubrication chart

EVERY 5,000 MILES

EVERY 750 MILES ENGINE
ENGINE After the first 1,000 miles, and thereafter
Check level and, if necessary, add every 6.000 miles. or four months, _
sufficient Castrol GTX to bring level whichever occurs first. drain the old oil
up to “H” mark on dipstick. while warm and refill with fresh
Castrol GTX in summer and winter.
NOTE :—At engine oil change also drain
the oil cooler. (neve 2000 TC only.)
Owners are reminded that in the car
maker's handbook more frequent sump
draining periods are recommended if
the operation of the-car involves :-—
(1) Frequent stop/start driving.
(2) Operation during cold weather,
especially when appreciable
engine idling is involved.
EVERY 10,000 MILES (3) Where much driving is done under
dusty conditions.

Including 5,000 Capacity—9 points + 1 pint for filter—

2000 TC
mile service 8 pints +1 pint for filter—2000 SC and
Automatic models.

FRONT WHEEL HUBS

Check front hubs for leakage. This may
be seen at disc shield or inside wheel rim.
Should any leakage be apparent
your Rover Distributor or Dealer should MANUAL GEAR BOX (if fitted)
be notified immediately. Cestrol
LM Grease should be used for repacking. Cneck level and replenish if necessary.
with Castrol GTX to the bottom of the
filler plug hole. The filler and level plug is
accessible through an inspection hole
on the side of the gearbox cover.
After the first 1 miles, and thereafter
every 20,000 miles, drain off the old oil
while it is warm and refill with fresh
STEERING BOX: Castrol GTX.
Check level and, if necessary, add sufficient Capacity :—1# pints.
Cestro!l Hypoy Gear Oli to bring level
up to the bottom of the filler plug hole

PROPELLER SHAPT
With the grease gun apply Castrol
LM Grease to lubricate the sliding spline.
DE DION TUBE
Check level and, if necessary, add
pews GTX to the bottom of filler plug
hole

FINAL DRIVE UNIT

Check level. preferably after a run when
the oil is warm and. if necessary, replenish
to the bottom of the filler plug hole with
Castrol Hypoy Gear Oil. After the
REAR WHEEL HUBS first 1,000 miles, and thereafter every
Check hubs for signs of leakage at flange 20,000 miles drain the old oil while it is
adjacer | to drive shafts at rim of wheel warm, and refill with fresh Cestrol
flange. Should any leakage be apparent Hypoy Gear Oll.
your Rover Distributor or Dealer should Capacity—approximately 24 pints.
be notified immediately. Castrol LM
Grease should be used for replenishing
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What you need to know about your car
The main instruments and controls are of placed between the two front seats and controls
the conventional form and are laid out in either the operation of the automatic transmission.
of two basic ways. All models manufactured up There are six positions marked on the quadrant
to September 1970 and subsequent SC’s and and these are:- ‘P’, ’R’, ‘N’, ‘D2’, ‘D1’ and ‘L’.
Automatics have a rectangular instrument As a safety factor to prevent accidental engage-
cluster mounted on the facia above the steering ment it is necessary to depress the button in the
column. TC models manufactured after centre of the selector lever to engage all posi-
September 1970 have similarly positioned tions, except between ‘D2’ and ‘D1’. Also the
circular controls which include additionally an lever can be moved from ‘L’ to ‘D1’ or ‘D2’ and
ammeter, tachometer and oil pressure gauge. from ‘R’ to ‘N’ ~ without depressing the
It is not considered necessary to detail all button.
the controls, instruments and warning lights ‘P’ This is the park position, whereby no
since the majority are self explanatory. Those, engine torque is transmitted to the
however, which do require some explanation, driving wheels and the transmission is
together with certain other features, are listed locked by mechanical means. For safety
in the following paragraphs. reasons it is recommended that this posi-
tion be used for tuning or adjustment.
Front seat adjustment Serious damage will result if this position
Front seat adjustment is effected by lifting is selected whilst the car is moving.
the locking bar for fore and aft movement, and ‘R’ Reverse position, whereby the car can be
by depressing the locking lever to permit re- driven in reverse. To assist control, full
positioning of the reclining back-rest. engine braking is available. As with the ‘P’
position it is important not to select ‘R’
Automatic transmission controls (where applic- whilst the car is moving forwards.
able) ‘N’ This is the neutral position, whereby no
General description engine torque is transmitted to the driv-
The Borg Warner type 35 automatic trans- ing wheels. Always apply the handbrake
mission unit may be fitted as a factory prod- when the selector lever is in the ‘N’ posi-
uction optional extra to models covered by this tion and the car is stationary.
handbook. Cars produced before October 1966 ‘D2’ For leisurely driving conditions this is the
did not have automatic transmission offered as usual position of the selector lever and
an optional extra. dispenses with the first gear condition.
The system comprises two main com- This position should also be used when
ponents:- driving on slippery road surfaces.
1 A three element hydrokinetic torque ‘D1’ This is the normal driving condition and
converter coupling capable of torque multi- is the usual position of the selector lever.
plication at an infinitely variable ratio between It gives a fully automatic range of three
2 kandet: <1; forward ratios, all of which are progress-
2 A torque/speed responsive and hydraulic ively engaged up and down depending
epicyclic gearbox, comprising a planetary gear- upon the position of the accelerator and
set providing three forward ratios and one the speed of the car.
reverse. ‘L’ In this position the automatic ratio train
is over-ridden for first and second ratios.
Driving technique (early systems) It also gives full engine braking. It must
The selector lever is mounted on a console not be selected at speeds of 70 miles per
 22

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 What you need to know about your car 23
gSSRISE 2 lS a
hour or above as the engine will over- about 10 mph, whereupon second gear will
speed causing serious mechanical damage. automatically be engaged. When the speed falls
to about 3 mph, first gear will then be auto-
Starting the engine matically engaged.
The starter motor may only be operated If the road speed is below 55 mph. it is
when the selector lever is in the ‘P’ or ‘N’ posi- possible to obtain second gear by depressing the
tion, this being controlled by a micro switch accelerator pedal to the ‘kick-down’ position
fitted to the underside of the automatic trans- and can then be held until a road speed of 70
mission unit. For safety reasons always apply mph. is achieved whereupon it will auto-
either the handbrake or footbrake before start- matically change to top gear. Conversely, first
ing the engine. gear can be obtained below 20 mph. with the
Care should be taken when starting the accelerator pedal in the ‘kick-down’ position
engine from cold using the choke control. Stall- and can be held until a road speed of 40 mph. is
ing should be avoided if this control is left out achieved whereupon it will automatically
sufficiently to increase engine speed until it has change to second gear.
reached its normal operating temperature. At With the selector in the ‘L’ position, it is
the fast idle speed when the selector is moved possible to hold the automatic transmission in
to the ‘L’ or ‘D1’ position a firm engagement either first or second gear and driving technique
will be obtained but this has no ill effects on is similar to that for a conventional gearbox
the automatic transmission unit. with the exception of the torque converter.
On cars fitted with automatic transmission Full over-run braking is available in either first
units, the rubber button on the starter solenoid or second gear, which is of considerable assist-
is blanked off so that the engine cannot be ance when descending long hills. The ‘L’
started from the engine compartment region for position must not be engaged at speeds above
obvious safety reasons. 70 mph. If the ’L’ position is selected when
starting the car from rest the automatic trans-
Normal driving conditions mission will remain locked in first gear regard-
When ‘D2’ position is selected the automatic less of the position of the accelerator pedal or
transmission covers a range of two ratios road speed. The car must not exceed a speed of
commencing with second gear which will 45 mph. in first gear. When necessary to change
operate in conjunction with the torque con- from first gear to second gear ‘L’ position,
verter. The ratios will be progressively engaged move the selector lever to either ‘D1’ or ‘D2’ to
according to the car speed and accelerator pedal effect the second gearchange and then return
position. Top gear will then be retained until the selector to the ‘L’ position. The maximum
the car speed falls below 10 mph. whereupon road speed in second gear must not exceed 70
second gear will automatically be engaged. This mph. To effect a gear change from second
is, of course, providing that the ‘kick-down’ speed in the ‘L’ position move the selector lever
position of the accelerator pedal is not used. to the ‘D1’ or ‘D2’ position. When the auto-
If the road speed is below 50 mph, second matic transmission is in top gear with the
gear may be obtained by using the ‘kick-down’ selector in either ‘D1’ or ‘D2’ position, move-
position of the accelerator pedal and can be ment of the selector lever to the ‘L’ position
held in this condition until a maximum speed will automatically give second gear, and then
of 70 mph. is obtained whereupon top gear will when the road speed falls to below 18 mph.
automatically be engaged. It should be first gear will automatically be obtained.
remembered that in the ‘D2’ position first gear When the automatic transmission is in
is not engaged at any time. second gear, first gear may be engaged at road
When the selector is moved to the ‘D1’ speeds below 20 mph. by depressing the accel-
position a fully automatic change throughout erator pedal to the ‘kick-down’ position, but
the range of the three forward speeds is then to change up to second gear the lever must
achieved, commencing with a first gear start in be moved to the ‘D1’ or ‘D2’ position and then
conjunction with the torque converter. The returned to the ‘L’ position as previously
second and third gear ratios are automatically stated.
obtained as the car speed increases.
Should it be necessary to retain top gear it Special driving or recovery conditions
may automatically be held in this positicn until 1 To slow down or stop, remove the foot from
24 What you need to know about your car
aaa.

the accelerator pedal and depress the footbrake Fitted to the selector lever is a button which
in the usual way. The engine will not stall. must be depressed to allow selector lever move-
2 Parking. With the car stationary, move the ment except between positions ‘D’ and ‘2’ and
selector to the ‘P’ position and apply the hand- also from ‘1’ to ‘2’ or ‘D’, or from ‘R’ to ‘N’.
brake. If the car has been parked on a steep Movement of the selector lever to ‘P’, ‘R’, and
gradient, move the selector to the ‘L’ or ‘D1’ ‘N’ is as on the early type of transmission.
position and increase the engine speed slightly The following points should be noted about
if facing uphill, or if facing downhill, move the a slight difference in driving technique:-
selector to the ‘R’ position and increase the 1 ‘D’ position. This is used for all normal
speed slightly. Then release the handbrake. driving conditions and the ‘kick-down’ is also
3 Soft surfaces. When the rear wheels will not available to engage second speed between 30
grip the road surface due to snow, ice or mud and 55 mph. It should hold up to a maximum
conditions, rock the car forwards and back- speed of 70 mph. If the accelerator pedal is
wards by moving the selector alternatively to depressed into the ‘kick-down’ position at
the ‘R’ and ‘L’ or ‘D1’ positions and raising the speeds below 30 mph, first speed should be
engine speed slightly. engaged and held up to 40 mph.
4 Towing. If a caravan, boat or trailer is being 2 ‘2’ position. With the selector in the ‘2’
towed, always select the ‘L’ position before position and the car stationary, the car will
ascending or descending steep hills, to stop start in second speed and remain in this speed
overheating of the special transmission fluid, until the selector lever is moved. If ‘D’ is
and also to receive benefit from the engine selected and then moved to the ‘2’ position,
braking assistance. second speed will be engaged and will be held,
5 Recovery towing. Should it be necessary to with either ‘D’ or ‘1’ position selected. NOTE:
have the car towed to a garage, the distance Do not select a lower gear when the car is
must not exceed 20 miles or the speed 30 mph. travelling above 70 mph. as this will cause the
Towing is permitted providing the transmission engine to overspeed resulting in possible
is not damaged and that the oil level is correct. mechanical damage. If the ‘2’ position is
Put the selector lever in the ‘N’ position. If selected with the car ascending a hill the car
there are noises emitting from the transmission, may be stopped and the brake pedal released
or the towing distance is greater than 20 miles, without fear of the car rolling back down the
the propeller shaft should be disconnected and hill.
completely removed, and the end of the trans- 3 ‘1’ position. The transmission shifts into first
mission sealed to prevent oil loss and dirt speed and will then remain in this speed until
ingress. As an alternative, the car can be the selector lever is moved regardless of road
suspended and towed with the rear wheels off speed or position of the accelerator pedal.
the ground. 4 Tow starting. It is not possible to push or to
6 The car may be push or tow started. Move start a car fitted with the later type of auto-
the selector to the ’‘L’ position and switch on matic transmission.
the ignition. If the engine is cold, pull out the 5 Recovery towing. The car must not be
choke contro! and then release the handbrake. towed for more than % mile without dis-
The car should then be towed until the engine connecting the propeller shaft or lifting the rear
fires and starts to run. This should occur at wheels clear of the road.
road speed of below 25 mph. An extra long tow
rope must be used unless the car is being Steering column lock (where fitted)
pushed and very great care taken not to run The four position steering column lock
into the back of the towing vehicle once the operates as follows:-
engine starts. Steering column locked when key is
removed after turning to this position.
Driving technique (later systems) When turning to O from | it will be
A modified system of selection and oper- necessary to depress the key inwards.
ation is fitted to the later produced cars, | In this position, the radio (if fitted) can
whereby the selection quadrant has positions be used.
marked as follows:- ‘P’, ‘R’, ‘N’, ‘D’, ‘2’, ‘1’. II Ignition and accessories on.
This allows manual control over both up and Il The key must be turned to this position
down changes. to start the engine. It is spring loaded and
 What you need to know about your car 25

immediately the engine starts, the key Hazard switch

should be allowed to return to II. If the The hazard switch operates all four flashing
engine stalls the key should first be indicator lights simultaneously, together with
returned to | before attempting to re- both flasher arrows on the instrument panel.
start.
Note: It may be necessary to rotate the steering Warning lights
wheel slightly when engaging or disengaging the The amber light above the clock on later TC
lock. Do not attempt to engage the lock (ie. models, is the choke warning light. All other
remove the key) whilst the car is in motion. warning lights are marked to show their
function. The brake warning light will illumin-
Choke control ate when the handbrake is on or if the brake
The choke control is used for cold starting reservoir fluid level falls below the permitted
and should be pushed back in as soon as possi- limit.
ble. It can be locked in any position by turning
slightly. The first 0.6 in. approximately (15 Tachometer (later TC models)
mm) increases tickover speed only. The red sector indicates maximum permiss-
ible engine speeds. Serious engine damage may
Fuel reserve result if the needle is allowed to travel to the
To select the reserve (2.5 gallons approxi- end of this sector.
mately) pull out the control knob. Always
return it after re-fuelling. Panel light switch
Rotation of the knob in a_ clockwise
direction increases the brightness.
Headlamp flasher and dipper
The switch positions are:-
Down - dipped headlights Cigar lighter
The cigar lighter is operated by pressing the
Middle - headlamp main beam
knob inwards until it locks in position. It will
Up (spring loaded) - flasher
pop out when ready for use.

Horn and direction indicators Heated rear window (optional equipment)

The switch positions are:- Where a heated rear window is fitted,
Anti-clockwise - left hand indicator extreme care must be exercised to prevent any
Clockwise - right hand indicator damage to the interior surface by scratching or
Towards steering wheel - horn. abrading with metallic objects or abrasive
cleaners.
Windscreen wipers and washers
The latest type of wiper switch has five
positions:-
Delay — when turned anti-clockwise to
‘delay’, a 2 to 15 second delay between wipers
is obtained. The delay speed control is a rotary
device on the left hand side of the steering
column nacelle.
Off — wipers off, but washers can still be
operated. f sal eS |
S — wipers on, at slow speed. 1 PARK
(pve)
OFF GIDE
HEAD
DELAY Orr,
s/wasy
F — wipers on, at fast speed. "BS.4) ((7)(PUSH)

The washers are operated by pressing the

knob inwards.
INTERIOR LIGHT S @
jrnngtvaner nt

SOME ADDITIONAL CONTROLS

Interior light switch
On later models, this switch operates the 1 Panel light switch 3 Clock
rotary map light at position 1, or interior and 2 Speedometer trip 4 Cigar lighter
control
map lights at position 2.
26 What you need to know about your car

Heating and ventilating

With the fresh air heating and ventilating
system, air flows through a built-in grille and is
assisted as necessary by a blower. It then passes
to an air mixing chamber with various valves to
control the temperature and direction of air
movement.
The ‘air inlet valve’ is opened by means of
the main contro! lever (A), on the right-hand
side of the console and will allow air to pass
into the air mixing chamber. 1
" i)

There is a ‘wind blown’ flap which is auto-

matically opened by the ram effect of the air
entering the mixture chamber as the car travels Aid C0
Mi)
09
£10 AN
10
along the road. This air flow by-passes the AOVA CY
mh
TH
OT
OM Mi
C3
08
M1
Uy
blower fan.
HEATER CONTROLS
The electric blower fan, when switched on,
takes its air supply from the mixing chamber A Main control C Distribution
and increases the air flow above that effected B Temperature control control
by the forward motion of the car. The blower
fan is controlled by a three position switch so Safety harness (seat belts)
as to give: off, half-speed and full-speed condi- Safety harnesses are either of the static,
tions. lap/diagonal type or inertia reel, one handed
The heater distribution (C), and temperature engagement type.
control (B) are located on the left-hand side of With the former type, the main adjustment
the heater ‘control panel and control the air is by movement of the buckle C in the direction
blending valves, mixing the hot and cold air B for tightening and in the direction A for
ready for passing to the car interior. slackening. The tongue D is snapped into the
One of the features of the heater and venti- buckle E when in use, and then final adjust-
lation system is the built-in face level venti- ment is made by pulling the free end of both
lation ducts whereby a large outlet in the cold straps. To release, simply depress the button in
air passage allows fresh air to be directed to the the buckle.
instrument facia panel ducting. The latter type are engaged by snapping the

SAFETY HARNESS, STATIC TYPE

A Direction for B_ Direction for C Adjustment buckle E Release buckle
slackening tightening D Tongue
 What you need to know about your car 27

SAFETY HARNESS, INERTIA REEL TYPE

A Shoulder strap C_ Inertia reel E Tongue retaining F One handed engagement/

B_ Lap strap D Engagement tongue bar release buckle
on shoulder strap
tongue D into the engagement/release buckle,
and release by depressing the button.
Cleaning of either type of belt harness
should be done with warm water and soap or
household detergent.

Carburettor air intake (TC models)

During winter conditions the lever on the air
intake should be set in the middle position (as
shown, dotted). In the summer, the lever
should be returned to position 2.

Anti-freeze solution
In winter driving conditions anti-freeze
should be added in accordance with the table
below. Use only Castrol Anti-freeze. For
CARBURETTOR AIR INTAKE (TC MODELS)
instructions regarding draining, and flushing the
cooling system, see the Chapter entitled ‘Other 1 Winter position 2 Summer position
Maintenance’.

Cooling system Anti-freeze Anti-freeze

capacity required for required for
33.1/3% solution 50% solution
Brakes
Litres Pints Litres Pints Litres Pints
8 14 285) 5 4 ih
The braking system is fitted with a vacuum
operated servo. Since this relies on the engine
Jacking up and changing a wheel running for it to operate, the ignition should
Two jacking points are fitted on each sill and never be switched off and the car allowed to
are protected by rubber plugs. To remove a ‘coast’, because the braking system will then
wheel, use the flat end of the wheelbrace to rely solely on the hydraulic operation which
remove the hub cover plate then slightly requires considerably heavier brake pedal
slacken the wheel nuts before jacking up. When pressure.
replacing the wheels initially pinch up the Where a dual braking system is fitted the
wheel nuts with the car raised, then finally front and rear brakes operate independently of
tighten when it has been lowered to the ground. each other. Should, for example, the rear
The spare wheel is either located in the boot brakes fail, the braking system will still operate
Or on a special fitting on the boot lid. on the front brakes only.
Vehicle Identification
When ordering replacement parts, it is block or on the right hand side of the timing
always important to quote the chassis and chain case.
engine serial numbers, and year of manufacture. The four speed gearbox serial number is
The chassis. serial number is to be found stamped on the underside of the gearbox
either on a plate attached to the left hand housing. The serial number of the automatic
front door hinge post or under the bonnet on transmission unit will be found on a plate
the left or right hand wing valance. attached to its left hand side and the final drive
The engine serial number is stamped either serial number is stamped on the underside of
on the rear, right hand side of the cylinder the drive housing.

Location of chassis serial

number, early models

Location of engine serial Location of engine serial Location of four-speed gear-

number, early models number, late models box serial number

ey,
SS D“tram, 4
=

Location of automatic trans- Location of final drive serial

mission serial number number
Routine Maintenance
Introduction 9 Do not allow battery acid to come into
No matter how well you look after your contact with the skin or clothes. Should this
Rover 2000 various components inevitably are occur, immediately wash off with a copious
going to wear out and need replacement but by supply of cold water.
regular maintenance you will be able to get 10Do not rush a job; before starting work
above average mileage from your car before make sure you have ample time to finish.
replacement becomes a necessity. A great many
of the maintenance tasks are purely a visual Plan ahead
examination of components; many are vital to Before starting work always read through
the roadworthiness of the car and safety of its what work is involved and make sure you have
occupants. The whole business of routine all the parts and lubricants that will be
maintenance may become a bit tedious at times required. Most do-it-yourself motorists do their
but do not neglect anything. Your life, or that work during the evenings or weekends when the
of an innocent party, could depend on it. parts departments of garages are closed.
Nothing is more annoying than starting a job
Safety and being unable to complete it due to lack of
Accidents will happen but they can often be spares.
prevented. A little thought can save a consider-
able amount of heartbreak as well as incon- Maintenance summary list
venience. Read through the following points A list of the Routine Maintenance require-
and always put them into practice: ments is set out below, followed by detailed
1 Do not run the engine of the car in the instructions and precautions which should be
garage with the garage docrs closed. heeded at all times.
2 Do not work in a garage pit with the engine It must be remembered that before any filler
running. or drain plugs are removed, the surrounding
3 Do not wear a tie or have long sleeves when area should be wiped clean to prevent ingress of
working on the engine with it running. They dirt. Use only the specified lubricants and
can easily get caught in the fan blades or fan fluids; where these are not stated, refer to the
belt. (This applies to hair - tie it back). ‘Lubrication’ Section of this handbook.
4 When jacking up the front or rear of the car The engine oil, radiator coolant, windscreen
always chock the remaining two wheels. Where washer water and battery electrolyte levels
possible also apply the handbrake. should be checked weekly, along with the tyre
5 Do not rely on the jack to support the full pressures. Similarly, it is wise to check the fluid
weight of the car. Always supplement with axle level in the brake and clutch master cylinders at
stands or thick wooden blocks. These should be monthly intervals. If undertaking a long
placed under the main longitudinal members. journey, check all of these points together with
6 Immediately wipe up any grease or oil the function of the lights; five minutes before
spilled on the floor. you start could well save you a lot of time,
7 \f you are working under the car for any money and frustration later on. When checking
length of time ask someone to check every half tyre pressures, always use your own pressure
an hour to make sure all is well. Time passes gauge, and, if possible, check its accuracy with
slowly if you are trapped underneath. that of other motorists from time to time.
8 Always use the correct size of spanner, Garage tyre pressure gauges are not renowned
otherwise it might fly off causing great damage for their accuracy.
to yourself or the car. If you have purchased a new Rover 2000,
30 Routine Maintenance
ES

make sure that the Free Service inspection is distributor contact cleaning, and the Road
carried out by the distributor or dealer from Test.
whom it was purchased. This service is Check oil level in De Dion tube.
extremely important and covers a series of Check oil level in steering box.
adjustments and checks which are designed to Clean crankcase breather filter and renew
start your car off on the right road to trouble- flame trap.
free motoring. Fit new air cleaner element.
ooCheck all wheel hubs for signs of lubricant
PWN
leakage.
1 Every 6000 miles (10000 km) or 6 months Replace spark plugs.
Replace distributor contacts.
1 Drain the engine oil, change the oil filter and oanCheck fan belt tension.
refill with Castrol GTX. 10 Check all rubber boots on the steering joints,
Check gearbox oil level (SC and TC). ball swivels and radius rods.
Check automatic transmission fluid level 11 Check all steering joints for signs of wear.
(where applicable). 12 Check headlamp beam settings.
Check oil level in final drive unit. 13 Road Test.
Check brake fluid reservoir level and oper-
ation of fluid level warning switch.
Check clutch fluid reservoir level. Every 24000 miles (40000 km) or 2 years
Top up carburettor piston damper oil level.
at Lubricate
WN
ONO the dynamo rear bearing (alter- —Carry
w
| out the tasks listed in the 12000 miles
nators require no attention). service with the exception of the Road Test.
9 Fit new air cleaner elements (TC only). Clean the petrol pump sediment bowl and
10 Lubricate the propeller shaft sliding joint. pump filter.
11 Check carburettor slow running settings and Change oil in manual gearbox.
downshift cable setting (Automatics). Change oil in final drive unit.
12 Clean and adjust spark plugs. & Road Test.
of
N
13Clean and adjust distributor contact points.
Lubricate distributor.
14 Clean and grease battery terminals. p~) Every 36000 miles (60000 km) or 3 years
15Check free movement at rim of steering
wheel. —y Change all seals and flexible hoses in the
16Inspect all brake pads. Check handbrake braking system then carry out the tasks
operation. listed in the 12000 miles service and, if
17 Examine all hoses in the braking system. appropriate, those listed in the 24000 miles
18 Examine tyres for condition. service. Finally carry out the Road Test.
19 Inspect the exhaust system for leaks and
blow holes.
20 Lubricate the handbrake linkage. Procedure
21 Lubricate all carburettor controls.
22 Lubricate all hinges, locks, catches, pedal
pivots, etc. 1 Every 6000 miles (10000 km) or 6 months
23 Check seat fixings and seat belts.
24Check operation of all controls and 1 Run the engine until it is hot then place a
instruments. container of at least 10 pints capacity under the
25 Give the car an interior ‘spring-clean’. sump drain plug and allow the oil to drain for
26 Road test. at least ten minutes. Clean the drain plug and
refit, tightening firmly.
Remove the oil cooler drain plug (TC
2 Every 12000 miles (20000 km) or 12 models) and allow to drain completely. Clean
months the plug before refitting.
Place an absorbant cloth under the oil filter
1 Carry out the tasks listed in the 6000 miles and unscrew the filter. Wipe the area around
service with the exception of spark plug and the filter mounting and screw on a new filter
 Routine Maintenance 31

together with a new sealing washer.

Refill the sump using Castrol GTX and wipe
off any oil spilt on the engine or its compon-
ents. Run the engine at a steady tickover until
the oil pressure warning light extinguishes.
Switch off engine, recheck oil level and top up
as necessary.
2 With the car standing on level ground,
remove the oil level plug from the gearbox. Top
up if necessary (with a can or dispenser having a
flexible nozzle) until the oil starts to run out of
the filler/level hole. Allow the surplus oil to
drain away before cleaning the oil filler plug
and surrounding area. Refit the plug tightening
it firmly.
3 Where automatic transmission is fitted, stand
the car on level ground and run the engine at
idling speed. Select all gear positions success-
ively, then finally select ‘P’ and switch off.
Check the oil level and top up as necessary. Do
not overfill.
4 With the car standing on level ground,
remove the oil level plug on the rear of the final
drive casing. This is the upper of the two plugs
and access is gained through the rear mounting
bracket. If necessary, top up the final drive
with recommended grade oil (with a can or
dispenser having a flexible nozzle) until the oil
starts to run out of the filler hole. Allow
surplus oil to drain away before cleaning the oil
filler plug and surrounding area. Refit the plug,
tightening it firmly.
ENGINE DIPSTICK AND FILLER CAP 5 Wipe the top of the brake fluid reservoir and
unscrew the cap. Check the fluid level and top
1 Filler cap 2 Dipstick up as necessary using Castrol Girling Universal
Brake and Clutch Fluid until it reaches the rib
on reservoir body. To check that the fluid level
safety switch operates, switch the ignition
system on, select a gear (or ‘P’ with automatic
transmission), release the handbrake then
remove the reservoir cap and check that the
brake warning light comes on. It should
extinguish again when the cap is replaced.
Every third 6000 mile check (ie. 18000
miles (30000 km) or 18 months) the fluid
should be drained and the system replenished
with fresh fluid. This is beyond the scope of a
handbook of this type but can be carried out
by reference to the Owner’s Workshop Manual
also published by J. H. Haynes and Co. Ltd.
The work should otherwise be entrusted to
your local Rover dealer.
SUMP DRAIN PLUG LOCATION
6 Check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir
and top up if necessary to the top of the filler
1 Drain plug neck.
 MAINTENANCE ATTENTION POINTS

Oil filler cap and oil level dipstick 1

Engine sump drain plug
Plug
Oil cooler drain plug
Oil filter for engine
Engine breather filter
Crankcase emission control, flame trap
Air cleaner
Air cleaner removal
Elements for air cleaner
ODNODOAWN—
10 Carburettor slow-running adjustment
11 Lift pin for carburettor
12 Carburettor slow-running adjustment
13 Hydraulic damper for carburettor
14 Fuel sediment bowl
15 Sparking plug and cover
16 Cleaning sparking plug
17 Contact points for distributor
18 Distributor maintenance
19 Ignition timing
20 Dynamo lubrication
21 Oil filler/level plug for 4 speed gearbox
22
23
Drain plug for 4 speed gearbox
Fluid level dipstick tube, automatic transmission
: Zag
24 Fluid level dipstick, automatic transmission
25 Oil level/filler plug & drain plug for final drive
26 De Dion tube
27 Steering box lubrication and adjuster
28 Ball joints, repeated on opposite side Z ml
i lA
29 Fan belt adjustment ge val
30 Water: level,: windscreen washer YG(ZL ZA
31 Radiator filler cap ;| iG Z
32 Drain plug for radiator cl lV
33 Drain tap for cylinder block L K ,
34 Front hub lubrication
a5 FicarbulilGieication FINAL DRIVE UNIT FILLER AND DRAIN PLUGS
36 Adjuster for front wheel alignment 1 Filler plug 2 Drain plug
37 Propeller shaft lubrication
38 Brake fluid reservoir
39 Front brake pads
40 Rear brake pads
41 Bleed nipple for front brake
42 Bleed nipple for rear brake
43 Clutch master cylinder and fluid reservoir
44 Bleed nipple for clutch slave cylinder
45 Battery ) alternative positions
46 Battery )

BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR

1 Cap 2 Reservoir body
3 Level mark
34 Routine Maintenance

7 Unscrew the carburettor damper dashpot

cap/s and top up the level to within half an inch
of the top of the piston rod with engine oil.
8 On cars which are fitted with a dynamo,
SB:
apply a few drops of engine oil to the rear
bearing.
9 To replace the air cleaner elements on TC
models, undo and remove the two brass tube
nuts (B) and fibre washers that secure the air
cleaner installation (A) and lift away the
complete assembly. CLUTCH FLUID RESERVOIR
The two halves of the casing may be separ-
ated by inserting a screwdriver into the centre 2 Filler neck
slot and twisting. Lift out the old elements and
wipe the interior of the air cleaner to remove
any accumulated dust.
To reassemble, place the new elements into
the casing half, and engage the lip of the cover
with the recess at the bottom of the body.
Carefully press the two halves together until the
top lips engage with their recess.
Inspect the two rubber rings for signs of
perishing or cracking and obtain new ones if
their condition has deteriorated. Make sure that
they are correctly fitted and replace the air N\A SF S
cleaners as one unit. Secure in position with the CARBURETTOR DASHPOT
two brass tube nuts and fibre washers.
10 Lubricate the propeller shaft sliding joint \

from a grease gun filled with Castrol LM

Grease. y

111t is not recommended that any carburettor

adjustment is attempted on TC models, which
should only be carried out by a Rover garage
with the correct specialist equipment. On SC
and Automatics, adjustment can be carried out
with the engine at normal running temperature.
To adjust the tick-over speed, release the lock-
nut on the throttle adjusting screw and turn the AIR CLEANER MOUNTING BOLT LOCATION
(TC MODELS)
screw clockwise to increase speed and vice
versa. Tighten the locknut afterwards. If any A Aijir cleaner body B Brass tube nuts
adjustment to the mixture is thought to be
necessary, raise the piston by means of the
piston lifting pin. If the engine speeds up
immediately, the mixture is too rich; if it slows
down or stops, it is too weak. Turn the jet
adjusting nut down to enrich the mixture or up
to weaken. Between each adjustment rev the
engine a little then let the engine speed settle
down. Do not adjust the fast idle cam screw
unless absolutely necessary.
Where automatic transmission is fitted, set
the idling speed then increase this speed very AIR CLEANER COMPONENT PARTS (TC MODELS)
slightly by means of the accelerator coupling
shaft. Maintain this position then check for gap A Rubber rings, C Elements
carburettor adaptors D Air cleaner body
of 0.25 to 0.50 mm (0.010 to 0.020 in.) B. Air cleaner cover
 Routine Maintenance 35

between the crimped stop on the downshift

cable and the end of the adjuster. If this adjust-
ment is incorrect, do not attempt to adjust but
contact your Rover dealer as soon as possible.
12Spark plugs should be removed and cleaned
then the gaps set to 0.025 in. before refitting.
The cleaning is best done on a sand blasting
machine at a garage. This not only removes the
deposits more easily than cleaning by hand but
also tests the condition of the plugs under
compression. Wipe the insulators externally
before refitting the plugs to the car.
Particularly on TC models, if the car is
continually driven hard, on motorways, con-
sideration should be given to replacing the plugs
every 6000 miles (10000 km).
13To remove the distributor contact points,
unscrew the terminal nut (B) and remove it
together with the washer under its head. h
Remove the flanged nylon bush and then the <D
condenser lead and the low tension lead from ~
Ss
the terminal pin. Lift off the contact breaker SS

arm and then remove the large fibre washer

from the terminal pin.
The adjustable
removed
contact breaker plate is
by unscrewing one holding down
2S
CARBURETTOR ADJUSTMENTS
screw (A) and removing it, complete with
1 Throttle adjusting 3 Fast idle cam
spring and flat washer. screw screw
To re-face the points, rub the faces on a fine 2 Jet adjusting nut
carborundum stone, or on fine emery paper. It
is important that the faces are rubbed flat and
parallel to each other, so that there will be
complete face to face contact when the points
are closed. One of the points will be pitted and
the other will have deposits on it.
It is necessary to remove completely the
built-up deposits, but not necessary to rub the
pitted point right to the stage where all the
pitting has disappeared, though obviously if this
is done it will prolong the time before which
the operation of re-facing the points has to be
CARBURETTOR PISTON LIFTING PIN
repeated. 1 Lifting pin
Apply a very light smear of Castrol LM
Grease to the contact pivot before replacing the
moving contact.
To replace the points, first position the
adjustable contact breaker plate, and secure it
with its screw, spring and flat washer. Fit the
fibre washer to the terminal pin, and fit the
contact breaker arm over it. Insert the flanged
nylon bush with the condenser lead
immediately under its head, and the low
tension lead under that, over the terminal pin. DOWNSHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT
Fit the steel flat washer and screw on the 1 Accelerator coupling
securing nut. shaft 2 Crimped stop
White deposits and damaged Broken porcelain insulation Electrodes burnt away due to
porcelain insulation indicating due to bent central electrode wrong heat value or chronic
overheating pre-ignition (pinking)

Excessive black deposits Mild white deposits and elec- Plug in sound condition with
caused by over-rich mixture trode burnt indicating too light greyish brown deposits
or wrong heat value weak a fuel mixture

Some sample spark plugs

=A \

ADJUSTMENT POINTS FOR DISTRIBUTOR DISTRIBUTOR MAINTENANCE

A Contact breaker C Capacitor 1 Distributor cap 4 Cam bearing and

adjustment screw D Micrometer adjusting 2 Rotor distributor shaft
B Terminal nut nut 3 Cam 5 Contact pivot
E Micrometer scale 6 Carbon brush
 Routine Maintenance 37

To adjust the contacts, slacken the contact

\.
<
breaker adjustment screw (A) and insert a
screwdriver into the notched hole at the end of
the plate, turning clockwise to decrease and
anti-clockwise to increase the gap.
ll
Scrape off any carbon deposits from the
rotor and terminals inside the cap, using a
(@
KM
N
penknife or screwdriver. Wipe clean the interior
of the cap, the exterior, then all the ignition HT
leads and spark plug caps. Finally wipe round
the end cap of the coil. SX. NS
Before replacing the distributor cap check
that the centre carbon brush is spring loaded STEERING BOX ADJUSTMENT
and free to move.
1 Oil filler plug 3 Adjustment screw
The only remaining item of distributor 2 Locknut - 4 Dome nut
maintenance is lubrication. Add a few drops of
engine oil to the cam spindle screw head
beneath the rotor, and through the oil hole in
the contact breaker baseplate to lubricate the
automatic timing control. Apply a very light
smear of Castrol LM Grease to the cam surfaces
then replace the rotor and the cap.
14Scrape off any corrosion deposits from the
battery terminals then smear them with a little
petroleum jelly. Do not allow the products to
come into contact with the paintwork on the
car or the fingers. Carefully wipe the top of the
battery to remove any wet or greasy deposits,
then wash your hands.
15To check the steering box free movement,
FRONT BRAKE PAD AND KEEP PLATE
set the front wheels to the straight ahead
(DUNLOP)
position, then raise the front end of the car.
The steering wheel must turn freely from lock A Fixing bolt, C Brake pad
to lock but there should be no backlash at the nut and washer D Bleed nipple
Keep plate
straight ahead position. Adjustment can be
effected by removing the dome nut, slackening
the locknut then turning the adjustment screw
with a screwdriver clockwise if there is back-
lash, or anti-clockwise if there is friction.
Finally tighten the locknut and replace the
dome nut.
16 Raise the car at the appropriate point and
inspect each set of disc brake pads in turn.
Check for a minimum thickness of 3 mm
(0.125 in.) on the front pads and 1.5 mm
(0.062 in.) on the rear pads. If at, or near, this
limit they will need replacement which should
be done by reference to the Owner’s Workshop
Manual or by a Rover garage. Check also for
signs of oil contamination and uneven wear. On
the Dunlop braking system fitted to early
models, separate handbrake pads are fitted FRONT BRAKE PAD AND SHIMS (GIRLING)
which are very much less prone to wear. A Pad retaining pins C Damping shim
Check the handbrake lever for freedom of B Special clip for pin D Anti-rattle spring
movement over its full range of travel. Ensure E Brake pad
38 Routine Maintenance
ee re a ae ee ee

that it will stay in its ‘on’ position when down- Check the rear view mirror for security of
ward pressure is applied. fixing and for signs of cracking and crazing.
17 Carefully examine all flexible hoses in the Operate the windscreen washers and wipers to
braking system for signs of chafing and crack- make sure that the cleaning action is satis-
ing. Ensure that there is adequate clearance factory.
between them and any chassis components. 25Give the car an interior ‘spring-clean’, the
Also check the fixed hydraulic pipes for signs full procedure is explained in the ‘Bodywork’
of corrosion. Section of this handbook.
18 Carefully examine each tyre in turn for signs 26 The purpose of the road test is to ensure
of uneven wear, cuts, bulges, etc., and remove that everything is running in a satisfactory way
stones from the tread. It is not recommended and to complete one or two final checks. To
that any method of tyre change-round is carried start with find a quiet stretch of road with a
out; if unacceptable wear is occurring, arrange straight section of about 150 yards. Before you
for your Rover dealer to check the alignment of start testing, make sure that there is no-one
the suspension and steering. Lastly check that behind. It may be very satisfying to know
all the road wheel nuts are tight. you've saved a few pounds on maintenance
19 Checking the exhaust system will need to be costs by doing the work yourself but it would
done with the engine running and handbrake take the edge off things a bit for another car to
on, with the car in an open space, NOT in a career into the back of you, just because its
garage. Listen for sounds of leaking gas by lying driver hadn’t the foresight to realise you were
alongside the car, but if you do suspect a leak going to stop without notice.
don’t get underneath and sniff it out. Instead The first check is to ensure that the inertia
switch off and prod around afterwards. If the reel safety belts (where fitted) are functioning
engine has been running, be careful where you correctly, so for this particular test you will
put your hands because the system gets very need a front seat passenger. With the belts on
hot particularly towards the exhaust manifold. and driving at a steady 15 mph (24 km/h),
Don't forget to examine all straps, clamps and brake sharply and check that the belts lock and
fixing points. hold both occupants securely in position. At
The make-up of the exhaust system varies the same time check that the brakes do not pull
according to the model and date of manu- to one side and that their stopping power is
facture, but the basic system is depicted on the adequate. Now continue the run, with or
Chart in the Lubrication Section of this without the passenger, and listen for any
handbook (Also see pages 101 and 102) squeaks and rattles that might be present.
20 Apply a few drops of Castrol Everyman oil Wherever possible check all the remaining
to the handbrake linkage and pivots. instruments and controls, and the car handling
21 Apply a few drops of Castrol Everyman oil generally. Where automatic transmission is
to the carburettor pivots and linkage. fitted check all the selector lever positions on
22 Apply a few drops of Castrol Everyman oil increasing and decreasing speeds as appropriate,
to all door, boot and bonnet hinges, locks, not forgetting the ‘kick-down’ function.
catches and pedal pivots. Finally, bring the car to rest using the hand-
23 Check the seat fixing and adjustment points brake only checking that the lever does not
for security and signs of corrosion, the seat travel over its full range of movement to hit its
belts for cuts and fraying, and the inertia reels mechanical stop.
(where applicable) to ensure that they retract Have a last look round the engine compart-
the belts properly. Any damaged seat belts ment and underneath, just to check that there
should be replaced without hesitation since are no oil or water leaks.
your life or that of someone else could depend
on them. If corrosion is found at the fixing
points, the advice of a Rover dealer should be 2 Every 12000 miles (20000 km) or 12
sought. months
24 Check the operation of all lights, controls,
locks, catches, instruments, and indicators. The 1 Carry out the tasks listed in the 6000 miles
procedure for replacement of light bulbs is service with the exception of spark plug and
given in the ‘Other Maintenance’ Section of this distributor contact cleaning, and the Road Test.
handbook. 2 With the car standing on level ground, check
 Routine Maintenance 39

he level of oil in the De Dion tube and top up

aS necessary using Castrol GTX. The filler/level
alug hole is situated at the top and in the
centre. Also check that the rubber boots are
10t dislodged or damaged.
3 Check the level of oil in the steering box and
top up with Castrol Hypoy gear oil until the oil
s level with the bottom of the filler/level plug
10le which is located in the cover plate next to
the adjuster screw.
4 Remove the crankcase breather filter, swill
DE DION TUBE
fhoroughly in clean petrol, shake out the
surplus and allow it to air dry. Now soak it in 1 Filler/level plug 3 Drain hole
slean engine oil and allow to drain before re- 2 Rubber boot
‘itting.
With the later types ensure the ‘O’ ring and
sealing washer are undamaged and correctly
‘itted.
Remove the engine flame trap and discard it,
hen replace with a new one.
> To replace the air cleaner on TC and auto-
natic models, slide the extension tube rubber
way from the air intake and remove the air
yalance pipe. Undo the two nuts securing the
yackplate to the carburettor then remove the
Ning nut on the air intake cover to separate the
‘wo halves of the air cleaner. Wipe the interior
slean then refit a new element, ensuring that
y0th rubber seals (either side of the element) ‘:

ire in place. Reassembly is the reverse of CRANKCASE BREATHER FILTER

emoval. (LATE MODEL)
The procedure for TC models is given in wie BF Se slee :
yaragraph 9, Section 1. emcee eh : siesta
3 Check for signs of lubricant leakage from the 2 Wing nut and 4 ‘O' ring
ront and rear wheel hubs. Any rectification
ction is beyond the scope of this handbook:
therefore reference should be made to the
Ywner’s Workshop Manual or the work carried
yut by your Rover garage.
/ Replace all spark plugs. The correct type and
lap is given in the Specifications Section of this
vandbook under ‘Engine’.
3 Fit new distributor contacts. The procedure
S$ given in paragraph 13, Section 1.
) The correct fan belt adjustment permits a
novement of 8 to 11 mm (0.312 to 0.437 in.)
nidway between the fan and crankshaft pulley
inder thumb pressure. To adjust, slacken all the a. fs
ecuring bolts on the dynamo or alternator, —
hen re-position it correctly and tighten the ENGINE FLAME TRAP

ihe 1 Rubber hoses 2 Flame trap

(OCheck all the rubber boots around the
teering ball joints for security and condition.
1Move all the steering joints up and down
igorously. If there is any free movement the
40 Routine Maintenance

complete ball joint will require replacement. On completion, carry out the tasks listed in the
12The twin beam headlights may be adjusted 12000 miles service and, if appropriate, those
but because special equipment is required, it is listed in the 24000 miles service. Finally carry
recommended that this be left to the local out the road test as described in paragraph 26,
Rover agents, who will have the necessary of Section 1.
equipment. The procedure for alignment of
twin beam headlights is not the same as that for
single beam headlamp systems, and if
attempted will give unsatisfactory results.
However, provided that you are satisfied
with the illumination during night driving, and
other drivers do not ‘flash’ their lights at you it
is reasonably safe to assume that all is in order.
13The road test is a repeat of that set out in
paragraph 26, Section 1.

CARBURETTOR AIR CLEANER, SC MODELS

3 Every 24000 miles (40000 km) or 2 years 1 Extension tube 3 Rubber washer
2 Air balance pipe (one shown)
1 Carry out the tasks listed in the 12000 miles 4 Element
service with the exception of the Road Test.
2 Slacken the thumb screw from the top of
the fuel pump, move the retainer to one side
and remove the filter. Wipe the bowl internally
and clean the filter gauze in petrol, then re-
assemble ensuring that the sealing washer is
intact.
Finally prime the pump using the lever.
3 Where a manual gearbox is fitted, and after a
warming up run, place a container of at least 2
pints capacity under the gearbox drain plug and
allow the oil to drain for at least 10 minutes.
Clean the plug and surrounding area around the
plug hole and replace the plug. Refill the
gearbox with 1% pints of Castrol GTX. STEERING BALL JOINTS
4 With the oil in the final drive warm, place a 1 Steering ball lower
container of at least 3 pints.under the drain swivel, upper 3 Steering ball joints
2 Steering ball swivel, 4 Radius rod joints
plug to be found at the rear of the casing, and
allow the oil to drain out for at least 10
minutes. Clean the plug and surrounding area
around the plug hole and replace the plug.
Refill the final drive with 2% pints of Castrol
Hypoy.
5 The road test is a repeat of that set out in
paragraph 26, Section 1. ion.

4 Every 36000 miles (60000 km) or 3 years

1 Replacement of flexible hoses and seals in

the braking system is not a straightforward job
and most motorists will leave this to a Rover
garage. The procedure is, however, fully FUEL PUMP
1 Bowl 4 Sealing washer
explained in the Owner’s Workshop Manual for
2 Retainer 5 Priming lever
those who are feeling particularly ambitious. 3. Filter gauge
Other Maintenance
The items listed next are not part of a
regular maintenance programme but are equally
important. It is quite probable that some, or all,
of the items will require attention during the
period of ownership of the car.

Bleeding the hydraulic braking system

Removal of all the air from the hydraulic
system is essential to the correct working of the
braking system, but before undertaking this
examine the fluid reservoir cap to ensure that
both vent holes, one on top and the second
underneath but not in line, are clear; check the
level of fluid and top up if required.
Check all brake line unions and connections
for possible seepage, and at the same time
check the condition of the rubber hoses which
1 Nipple
may be perished.
If the condition of the wheel cylinders is in
doubt, check for possible signs of fluid leakage.
If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
having been put into the system, drain all the
fluid out and flush through with methylated
spirits. Renew all piston seals and cups since
they will be affected and could possibly fail
under pressure.
Gather together a clean jam jar, a 9 inch
length of tubing which fits tightly over the
bleed nipple, and a tin of Castrol Girling
Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid.
To bleed the system, clean the areas around
the bleed valve, and start on the rear brakes
first by removing the rubber cup over the bleed
valve and fitting a rubber tube in position. FRONT BRAKE BLEED NIPPLE
Place the end of the tube in a clean glass jar
containing sufficient fluid to keep the end of 1 Nipple
the tube underneath during the operation.
Open the bleed valve with a spanner and topped up, otherwise air will enter at this point
quickly press down the brake pedal. After again.
slowly releasing the pedal, pause for a moment Repeat this operation on all four brakes, and
to allow the fluid to recoup in the master when completed, check the level of the fluid in
cylinder and then depress again. This will force the reservoir and then check the feel of the
air from the system. Continue until no more air brake pedal. This should be firm and free from
bubbles can be seen coming from the tube. At any ‘spongy’ action which is normally
intervals make certain that the reservoir is kept associated with air in the system.
42 Other Maintenance
ee ee ees eee
Draining and flushing the cooling system locks develop. If a heater unit is fitted, check
that the valve in the heater unit is open, other-
Draining wise an air lock may form in the heater. The
If the engine is cold, remove the pressure cap best type of water to use in the cooling system
from the radiator (SC models) or expansion is rainwater, so use this whenever possible.
chamber (TC models) by turning it in an anti- Completely fill the radiator and replace the
clockwise direction. If the engine is hot, having cap.
just been run, then turn the cap very slightly If an anti-freeze mixture is to be used in the
until the pressure in the system has had time to cooling system, always use Castrol Anti-Freeze.
disperse. Use a rag over the cap to protect your Run the engine at a fast idle speed for
hand from the escaping steam. If, with the approximately half a minute and remove the
engine very hot, the cap is released suddenly, radiator cap slowly. Top up, if necessary, to the
the drop in pressure can result in the water top of the filler neck and replace the cap.
boiling. With the pressure released, the cap can Top up the level of water in the expansion
now be removed. On TC models remove the tank until it is at least half full (TC models
radiator filler cap. only).
Turn the heater control to the ‘HOT’
position so as to avoid an air lock or water
being retained in the heater radiator and hoses. Lamp replacement
If anti-freeze is used in the cooling system,
drain it into a clean bowl or tub of at least 17 Headlamps
pints capacity, for re-use. Initially remove the radiator grille. On early
Open the tap located at the rear right hand models undo the wing nuts at the rear of the
side of the cylinder block and remove the drain centre badge on the radiator grille and lift away
plug at the base of the radiator bottom tank. the badge.
When the coolant has finished running, Remove the plastic caps over the Phillips
probe the drain plug and tap orifices with a screws on the side of the grille to be removed,
short piece of wire to dislodge any particles of undo and remove the three screws, spring
rust or sediment which may be causing a washers and plain washers that secure the half
blockage and preventing all the water running radiator grille to the body.
out. Ease the top of the grille away, lift up the
grille so that the locating clips lift out of the
Flushing rubber mountings and then remove forwards
With time, the cooling system will gradually from the front of the car.
lose its efficiency as the radiator becomes Later models have six Phillips screws
choked with rust, scale deposits from the water securing the grille.
and other sediment. To clean the system out, Now remove the three screws holding the
remove the radiator cap and drain plug and headlamp rim in position, turn the lamp clock-
leave a hose running in the radiator cap neck wise and withdraw. Finally remove the con-
for 10 to 15 minutes. nector.
In very bad cases the radiator should be
reverse flushed. This can be done with the
radiator in position. The cylinder block tap is Side and flasher light
closed and a hose with a suitably tapered Undo and remove the Phillips screws that
adaptor placed in the radiator drain plug hole. secure the light lens to the light body.
Water under pressure is then forced through the Lift away the light lens and the foam rubber
radiator and out the header tank neck. seal.
The hose is then removed and placed in the The bulbs are now accessible.
radiator cap neck and the radiator washed out
in the usual manner. Rear light
Undo and remove the Phillips screws that
Filling secure the light lens to the light body.
Close the engine drain tap and refit the Lift away the light lens and the foam rubber
radiator drain plug. seal.
Fill the system slowly to ensure that no air The bulbs are now accessible.
 43

4
SIDE LAMP BULB REPLACEMENT

1 Upper lens retain- 3 Flasher bulb

ing screws 4 Lower lens
2 Side lamp bulb retaining screw

REAR LIGHT
Cylinder block drain tap
= Amber lens retaining screw
retaining screw Red lens
Amber lens Stop/tail bulb
Flasher bulb Reverse light bulb
White lens White
OWND lens retain-
Red lens
OABWN ing screw

FRONT GRILLE FIXINGS (EARLY TYPE)

A Clip C_ Fixing screw and

B Plastic cap washer
44 Other Maintenance

Windscreen wiper blades

To renew the wiper blades, pull the wiper
arm forward then lift the spring clip and with-
draw the blade.

Ignition timing
It is essential that ignition timing is carried
out by a Rover garage using special dynamic ————
=
setting equipment. However, in an emergency
just to get the car mobile, the distributor
should be set such that the contacts are just
commencing to open when number one piston
is rising towards top dead centre (TDC) on its
firing stroke. Align the flywheel timing marks
with the pointer in accordance with the setting
information in the ‘Specifications’ Section, IGNITION TIMING MARKS
under ‘Engine’. Small adjustments can be done
using the vernier adjustment but larger move- 1 Timing pointer
ment entails slackening the clamp and turning
the distributor bodily.

GY.

WINDSCREEN WIPER BLADES IGNITION TIMING

1 Wiper arm 2 Spring clip 1 Clamp 2 Vernier adjuster

Bodywork -maintenance,cleaning,minor repairs
Introduction you are in a hurry to use the car leave them out
Most owners like their cars to look clean and until dry. Otherwise they will not dry properly
well polished with a freedom from rust. Not and will get dirty again more quickly. They will
only does regular cleaning show up stone chips deteriorate more quickly too.
and rust marks which can be easily attended to Check that the door drain holes on the
before getting worse, but also ensures the bottom edge are clear. These holes are not just
appearance is maintained which results in a to let water out of the door that may get inside
good resale value for the car. by mistake. It is impossible to keep water out
Regular car cleaning is regarded by many as in wet weather so the holes are not just an
a necessary evil. Others enjoy this aspect of car emergency measure.
care far more than the routine mechanical Next check nuts, bolts and screws and make
maintenance. The secret really is to keep the sure that all are tight. Lubricate the door locks
car clean all the time so that it is not allowed to and hinges, courtesy light switch plunger, choke
become too dirty, making the work all that control and front seat adjusters.
more difficult. Turning to the boot, remove the complete
contents including spare wheel and vacuum out
Car cleaning - interior all the dust and dirt. Wipe the paintwork down
First empty the car completely - from with a damp cloth. If carpeting is fitted clean
shelves and trays to under the seats - of all the this as well in a similar manner to the interior
paraphernalia of travel. carpeting. Again look for water leaks especially
Lift out the rubber mats, carpeting and in the corners.
underfelt. The rubber mats should be washed. Inspect the pedal rubbers for signs of
The carpets may be brushed, shaken or beaten excessive wear and fit new ones if necessary. It
to remove the dust and dirt. If badly marked is dangerous to drive with worn pedal rubbers -
they can be cleaned using a carpet shampoo. on a wet day it is easy for the foot to acciden-
Remember that they must be dried thoroughly tally slip off.
so choose your time for doing this. They may The time has now come for touching up the
need drying overnight. Underfelt should be interior paintwork and full details for this will
carefully shaken but not washed and beaten be found later on in this Chapter. Once the
otherwise it will be difficult to dry and start to paint is dry the rear seat cushion and carpeting
break up. If the carpeting around the pedals is may be refitted followed by the oddments that
worn it is recommended that it be renewed as it live on the parcel shelf and in the boot.
can be a danger especially for lady drivers This is a good time to check the contents of
wearing heeled shoes. the first aid kit, if carried, and any deficiences
With a stiff handbrush or a vacuum cleaner should be made up. Check the tools. Lubricate
with a flexible hose remove all traces of dust the threads of the jack. Stow away the contents
and grit that is left inside. of the boot, making sure that the main tool kit
When cleaning the leatherwork of the car is so situated where it will not slide around or
seats use a damp cloth with a little mild soap if rattle.
necessary. Do not use detergents.
When cleaning windows and screens use Car cleaning - exterior underside
plain water and a chamois leather. A little If at all possible, have the underside steam
household ammonia in the water prevents cleaned. It will cost a few pounds but you may
smears. consider it well worthwhile.
Never put damp carpets back in the car. If It is not possible then you must prepare for
46 Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs
Le ia i nam a A a A ES A OSE

a quite long and very dirty job. wheels.

You will need paraffin, water (preferably a Finally rinse off with plenty of clean water
hose) a wire brush, stiff bristle brush and a and wipe dry using a leather. Bright work is
scraper. cleaned in the same way. Occasionally one of
Remove the carpets from the car and boot the special polishes which can be obtained for
and jack up the car as high as possible at one chromium plating may be used but on no
end or at one side and take off the wheels that account use an ordinary metal polish.
are raised. If you can, jack up the whole car. Every six months it is recommended that the
The first job is to scrape off that which can exterior be wax polished. There are, however,
be scraped - this before sloshing any liquid several important points to be noted before
about. Start from one end or one side and polish is used on a car.
proceed methodically and particularly with the 1 If the paint is new do not polish for at least
scraper and wire brush as appropriate. Coagu- two months, to allow the paint to dry fully and
lations of oily mud will clog the brush so try harden.
and scrape this and use the brush only for dry 2 Do not use a ‘cutting’ paste to remove the
mud and awkward bits. Sweep up the scrapings dull film from cars which have been sprayed
and dispose of them before going to the next with a metallic paint.
stage. Having scraped off all that can be scraped 3 When purchasing a wax polish always make
off the body floor should be washed off next sure that it is suitable for the type of paintwork
with water - scrubbing as necessary with a on the car.
bristle brush. 4 Do not attempt to wax polish a car in the
Do not use paraffin except in areas which sun or when the body is still warm, having been
are oil covered as this will make preparation of in the sun. It will look awful and possibly
the surface for undersealing difficult. All damage the paint surface.
mechanical parts which are not subject to rust 5 After washing the car make ‘sure the surface
can be flushed clean with paraffin using a brush is thoroughly dry before applying any polish. If
and rag. Finally hose off and then examine the it is adamp day wait for a dry one.
car interior to see what leaks there may be. This Finally, a few don'ts so as to avoid deterior-
was the reason for removing the floor coverings. ation of the paintwork:-
When dry plug the leaks from inside the car Don’t dust or polish a dirty car. Always
with a household sealant such as Seelastic. Wash.
The underside of the car is coated with an Don‘t get polish or wax on any of the glass.
anti-corrosive sealing compound when new. Don’t park under trees especially in the hot
This can be touched up locally using a hard, sun or when raining.
non-setting underseal paint such as ADUP. Don’t use a cutting compound or haze
remover on cars finished with an acrylic
Car cleaning - exterior paint.
Once a week the exterior of the car should
be washed and wiped dry. For this job a flexi- Bodywork- paint touch-up
brush on the end of the garden hose is ideal, a On any modern car with an all steel body
sponge to assist wiping down and a leather to the greatest enemy of all is rust and this is most
finish the operation off. likely to start under the wings or along the sills.
First make sure that all windows and doors The revolving road wheels fling water, mud and
are closed. Thoroughly soak the car in water grit onto the paint surface and it will only be a
using a gentle spray. Once the dirt has been matter of time before the paint skin is pene-
loosened by the water wipe down the panels trated and rusting starts.
using the brush with water still running through It is for this reason thay many new cars are
it - this way the paintwork should not be given a thick coat of underseal, usually of a
scratched by the dirt. bituminous or rubber base, to guard against
Next apply wax car shampoo or a little rusting. However, if this was the end of the
washing up liquid, working from the roof story paint maintenance would be relatively
downwards. Any dead flies, marks or tar may simple but unfortunately it is not because chips
be removed using a drop of paraffin on a cloth. appear at the front of the wings, along the
Do not forget to clean the wing mirrors, front outside of the wing panels and doors as well as
grille, the wiper arms and, of course, the the edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Whilst the
 Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs 47
eee
car is being cleaned these chip marks will minutes to ensure that there is no sediment in
become evident and it is important that they the bottom. Usually the manufacturer drops in
are attended to immediately otherwise rusting a ball bearing to assist agitation of the paint. If
will occur and start to spread so that what was this is the first time that an aerosol tin is used
once a small chip will gradually turn into a large try it on a piece of metal such as an old tin to
area requiring a great deal more repair work. get the ‘feel’ of the spray and then proceed to
Touch-up paint is usually available in a spray the prepared surface. Remember the
touch-up pencil, a tin with a little brush in the success of this work lies in the preparation. The
lid or aerosol form and may be obtained as a smoother the prepared surface the better will
good match to the original body colour. It be the finish. Hold the jet 8 to 12 inches away
must, however, be realised that some paint from the area to be sprayed and work from the
colours are more stable than others. Due to the centre outwards keeping the centre moist and
action of sunlight on an older car an exact — the outside lightly sprayed and dry.
match may be difficult. When dry, lightly rub the primer with wet or
Use a touch-up tin with brush incorporated dry paper to roughen up the surface and inspect
in the lid for making good stone chips and very the surface for blemishes caused by dust or
small scratches. insufficient attention paid at the preparation
To prepare the surface for touching-up first stage. Rectify any faults found by rubbing
use a silicone solvent to remove all traces of down again and applying a further coat of
polish which will otherwise not allow the paint primer. It is only when the surface under repair
to adhere properly. If there are signs of rusting is perfect that the final top coat may be
or the paint beginning to lift use a sharp applied. Again experiment on an old piece of
penknife and carefully scrape away the loose metal if this is your first time, and when you
paint and rust. Then neutralise the rust with a are confident apply the top coat to the primer.
little Kurust and allow to dry. With a piece of Remember it is like ordinary household paint-
rag soaked in methylated spirits wipe away the ing - two thin coats are better than one thick
excess. coat.
The prepared spot may now be touched in Should runs occur it is an indication that
with the touch-up brush. Use just sufficient to either too much paint has been applied at one
touch in the area concerned. Very carefully go or the nozzle was too near to the surface
apply a thin coat of paint only to the area being sprayed. Rub down the area concerned
concerned and allow to dry thoroughly. Apply and start again.
a further thin coat of paint so as to build up to With all touching-up, be it a small spot or a
the original thickness. This will take time and larger area, allow the paint to dry thoroughly,
patience but with care the touch-up should be overnight at least, and then use a little rubbing
indistinguishable from the surrounding area. compound to blend in the edges of the paint
If there is a scratch on the paintwork which and remove any dry spray.
has penetrated the top coat of paint and the If the area is near to a piece of chrome trim
primer is showing the procedure is the same. there is no need to remove it. Mask up the
The edges of doors and boot lid seem to chrome trim with a little sellotape or proper
suffer very much and small areas of rust fre- masking tape. This may be removed once the
quently appear. In this case an aerosol tin of paint is half dry, leaving no paint overspray
primer and top coat will be required. Again use marks on the trim. Take care when sticking
the silicone solvent to remove any polish from down the tape and pleat it if necessary around
the area concerned. Rub down the paint around any curved areas.
the area with a little wet or dry paper grade 400
until the area is smooth. As the name implies Bodywork - rusted panels, deep scratches and
the paper can be used with water without dis- dents
integrating. Water flushes the rubbed off paint This type of repair requires a little more
from the abrasive surface of the paper. It would work but is well within the do-it-yourself
otherwise clog. Neutralise any rust with Kurust. motorist’s capabilities, provided that care is
It is useless trying to use an aerosol in damp taken and the job is not rushed. Preparation is
conditions or anything other than perfectly still the secret to good results. The method of
air. So choose a dry day and work in the garage. approach will depend on the location of the
Shake the aerosol tin of primer for a few damage but in all cases if it is possible to push
(L) saredaa y40mMApog s0oully
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50 Bodywork - Maintenance, Cleaning and Minor Repairs
a

the dent or crease out from behind so much the to the proper contour. As you get nearer to the
better. This may mean removal of a piece of final shape so the coarseness of the file shoulc
trim. Should this present problems do not be reduced until finally abrasive paper may be
worry too much provided you are able to build used.
up to the original shape with filler. Do not use great lumps of filler in one go
If severely rusted front or rear wing panels Take your time and build up in layers, letting
are present, consideration should be given to each layer harden in turn. Fill in uneven spot:
replacing them complete. These panels are as and when needed. If you are doing a jok
bolted on, and although this type of repair will using resin paste for the first time do not
be more expensive, it will save a great deal of expect too much of yourself, it takes a little
time. The full procedure for this is given in the time to get the feel of the material. If an area 0
Owner’s Workshop Manual for the Rover 2000. panel has rusted out and you have a hole to fil
Any damaged trim embellishment should be in then a piece of perforated metal sheet o1
taken off and straightened separately. If their mesh should be attached behind the panel witt
fixtures are broken they should be glued on adhesive or clips so that the resin filler paste
later using a two part resin glue such as can be built up on it, layer by layer.
Araldite. When you are satisfied that the surface look:
For safety reasons this next operation - and feels even (it does not have to have «
requires a pair of goggles or glasses to protect glasslike finish yet) apply a coat of cellulose
the eyes. Using an electric sander with an primer (the grey one) to the whole area of fille:
abrasive disc on the rubber pad remove all the paste and surround. This can go direct ontc
paint right down to the bare metal from the bare metal but it is best to cover bare meta
area surrounding the damage as well as the with an underprimer such as Zinc Plate first i
damaged area itself. possible. This is supplied for brush applicatior
Next coat the area of bare metal with a or from an aerosol.
special zinc primer such as Zinc Plate to give Then add a normal primer. When th
additional protection against future corrosion cellulose primer is dry it should be rubbec
as well as to provide a key for the body filler. down with 400 wet or dry (wet). Keep adding
Allow to dry thoroughly. another coat of primer (after the water ha
The body filler must next be prepared dried off) and rubbing down until a perfectly
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. smooth finish is obtained.
Usually these come in two parts, a tin of filler The final colour coat may then be appliec
in paste form and a hardener. Read through the from the aerosol can. Do not spray in wind o
mixing instructions and when fully conversant direct sunlight.
mix only enough for immediate use to guard If the area is a large one it may be worth
against waste. Once the hardener has been while to spray the complete panel which, o
added the paste has a limited working time of course, should be rubbed down all over witl
only a few minutes. The material should be 400 grade wet or dry (wet) first.
mixed on a smooth surface such as a glazed tile If you have colour sprayed part of a pane
using a wooden or plastic spatula (a flat only leave it to harden for at least a fortnigh
wooden iced-lolly stick is suitable). before rubbing down with cutting paste an
The filler should be applied to the damaged final polishing.
area and about one inch either side of it so as to Aerosol paint sprays are expensive, and ar
allow for preparing the surface for final finish- not easy to use to give a final coat of a goor
ing. Do not apply the filler to paintwork as it _surface. It is often quicker to brush on th
will not adhere properly. Carefully smooth the paint. Use a slow drying thinner such as Belco
filler to the contour of the body panel, but do After the last coat has hardened for 24 hour:
not try to work it once it has started to harden. rub down with wet ‘wet or dry’ of grade 401
Make sure that it is left standing proud to very lightly and with plenty of water. Just tak
give adequate leeway for shaping and rubbing off the top of the brush marks. Then shine uw
down. When dry the resin filler has the consis- the paint with rubbing compound or a fine cut
tency of a hard bar of chocolate. A surform ting paste. Allow a further week for the paint tc
plane, dreadnought file and very coarse rasp are harden, then give a polish with car cleane
ideal tools to use for cutting the material down polish.
Preparing your car for the MOT Test
All cars over three years old are subject to lost movement and wear. Any sponginess in
the MOT test. The test itself concentrates brake operation should be rectified by bleeding
mainly on safety aspects although other points the system as described under ‘Other Mainten-
are also checked and may result in a failure if ance.
’

not considered serviceable. If you have carried

out the routine maintenance on your car Lights
correctly and at regular intervals as shown Switch on all the lights and check that they
earlier in this book you have a far better chance are all functioning correctly. Check the oper-
of passing the test than if the car has been ation of the headlamps on full beam and dipped
neglected in any way. The points the tester will beam. Also check that the main beam warning
be looking for are as follows:- light operates when the lights are on full beam.
Back the car up against a wall and check that
Steering the brake stop lights work both with and
Jack up the front end of the car and check without the side lights on in the reflection.
that there is no play in the steering mechanism Check the operation of the indicator lights
balljoints. With the road wheels in the straight both front and rear. They should flash at
ahead position, there should be no backlash at between 50 and 120 times per minute.
the steering wheel rim. Excessive play or wear Check that the lenses of the stop and brake
anywhere in the system should be rectified lights are not broken or faded; they must show
before submitting the car for the test. a positive, bolt red light.
The degree of wear allowed in the steering
gear is not laid down precisely but it is up to Bodywork and underframe
the individual judgement of the tester as to The tester will examine the car thoroughly
whether he considers the car to be in a safe
condition. Some testers may be more stringent
than others but do not risk having a car with
faulty steering: always have worn parts replaced
as a matter of course.
Lower the car to the ground and check the
car on full lock in both directions and make
sure that the wheels do not foul the bodywork
and chafe the tyres.

Brakes
Carefully examine all the metal and flexible
hydraulic pipes and hoses for signs of leaking,
corrosion and chafing. Clean off the mud, dirt,
etc. from the flexible rubber hoses and examine
them for any signs of perishing, bulging or
fraying caused by rubbing or stones thrown up.
Check all the brake pads and examine the
calipers carefully for signs of fluid leakage.
Check that the handbrake operates satisfactor-
ily and does not travel to its mechanical stop. Check hydraulic pipes and hoses for splitting and rusting
Examine the linkage and cable carefully for any
52 Preparing your Car for the MOT Test

for excessive signs of rust and corrosion, parti- the brakes by using an ordinary brick. Get the
cularly where the corrosion points may affect car onto a reasonably long, deserted, straight
the safety of the car, such as the steering box and smooth piece of road, place the brick on
and suspension mounting points. the front passenger floor on one of its narrow
He will also examine the state of the exhaust longer sides and gently accelerate up to 30
system and if this is badly rusted, loose or has mph. Checking that it is safe to do so, apply the
obvious holes in it the car may fail its test. brakes hard without actually locking the
wheels. The brick should fall over at this point
Windscreen washer and wipers quite quickly. Repeat the test and stop the car
Check that the washer reservoir is full and using the handbrake only; this time the brick
that the system works properly. The wipers should just topple over quite gently.
should give a full sweep without leaving any lf the car pulls violently to one side or the
smears on the windscreen and then park auto- other on heavy braking this may well cause a
matically. If a satisfactory wipe is not obtained, failure of the test. Refer in this case to the fault
renew the blades. finding section.

Seat belts
Examine the seat belts carefully for signs of Conclusion
fraying. Look for any rust around the anchor- If all appears to be well the car can now be
age points and make sure all the bolts which submitted for its test. Before taking it in make
secure them are tight. Where inertia reel belts sure you have the log book and the old test
are fitted, they should be checked as stated in certificate to hand for the tester. Have enough
Paragraph 26 of Section 1 in the ‘Routine petrol in the tank to enable the road test to be
Maintenance’ Section of this handbook. carried out.
It is advisable to leave instructions with the
Road test garage telling them that should any minor
The purpose of the tester driving the car on faults be found they should be put right on the
the road is to ensure himself that it handles spot to prevent a further waste of time and
properly. If there is anything major wrong with money. Any major faults should be told to you
the steering, you will probably already have before the repair work is begun. If your car fails
spotted this fault and had it rectified before the its test because of a fault of this nature do not
test. get upset about it. Remember that the tester is
The tester will check the efficiency of the thinking of your safety and the safety of other
brakes by using a decelerometer, a piece of road users and be thankful that any fault was
equipment which is not readily available to the discovered before it may have caused an acci-
public. However, you can do a rough test on dent.
Buying and Selling a Used Rover 2000
When you are looking for a suitable car do Get out of the car and open the bonnet.
not look at any one in detail till you have seen Have a thorough check round all the engine
a number to get a feel of the sort of prices compartment for signs of either oil or water
being asked for cars in various conditions. In leaks. Remove the dipstick and check the
the guide that follows various things to look for colour and level of the oil. If it is very black it
are listed. Very likely your car will have some will need changing. If there is evidence, by
of the defects you look out for. You will not feeling grittiness and faint traces of white metal
find a perfect car. The object is to find out in the oil the engine is probably badly worn.
what faults the car has so you know what has Check the condition of all ignition HT leads.
to be done to it before it is usable, what it If they are cracked they will need renewing at
likely to go wrong soon after, and what sort of an early date. Check that the distributor and its
bills you will have to meet in the first few cap are firm and not damaged in any way.
months of ownership. Ask someone to start the engine and have a
Walk round the car a few yards away from it look at the colour of the exhaust gases. If it is
and see if it sits evenly on the ground. very smoky or blue this indicates considerable
Does the paintwork on the body panels wear in the engine. The colour of the interior
match up perfectly? If not the car has probably exhaust pipe outlet only may be indicative if
been in an accident. the car has been run for at least 10 miles before
If you suspect respraying check closely looking at it. Basically it should be light grey in
round the chrome strips and windscreen colour - black and sooty may indicate a tired
rubbers to see if there is any evidence of paint engine.
on them. Listen to the engine while it is running.
If you suspect signs of filler a good way of There should be no prominent taps or rattles of
checking this is to run along the suspect area any kind. When the engine is revved up sudden-
with a magnet. The magnet will not grip on ly there should be no evidence of any excessive
areas which have been filled. noise other than normal engine noise; any
Check the operation and tight fitting of the heavy thumping at this stage may indicate worn
doors, boot lid and bonnet. big end bearings.
Look for signs of rust round the wings and Turning to the electrical system check that
sills, and for any signs of paintwork bubbling. all the lights, including the indicators, work
This will indicate rust coming through from correctly and are consistently bright and do not
underneath which may have been covered up fluctuate in intensity with engine speed. Check
by a quick spray but which will eat its way that the ignition warning light goes out
through again very quickly. immediately the engine speed is increased from
Look at the condition of the upholstery in idling.
the car, even when the seats have been covered. Have a good look round the battery for signs
This will give a fair idea as to the way the car of seepage, cracking, etc and check the condi-
was treated by its previous owner. Also look at tion of the battery terminals. (The battery on
the wear on the carpets and, if not replaced, the later models is in the luggage boot).
pedal rubbers. Replacement too indicates age. Walk round the car again and examine the
Whilst in the car try the handbrake to see if state of the tyres. Check that, if worn, they
it is correctly adjusted, the footbrake and have done so evenly. If they have worn uneven-
clutch to check the pedal travel and free ly or show signs of scuffing there possibly may
movement. Move the gear stick into all posi- be something wrong with the suspension
tions to see if it is positive and precise. geometry or the steering. Also check the
points
ing

Arrows
indicate
potential
rust
 Buying and Selling a Used Rover 2000 55

condition of the spare and ensure that it is Selling

inflated. Whilst checking the spare, make sure Much of what has been said with regard to
that there is a jack and a wheel brace of the buying a used car is relevant in selling one
correct type for the car. except, of course, that the boot is on the other
Try to rock the front wheels, both vertically foot.
and horizontally. Any movement may indicate Whatever the reasons are for selling, be they
maladjusted front wheel bearings or wear in the that you want a bigger, better or different car,
steering linkage. you simply need the money, or your circum-
stances have changed, there is the relatively
Get back in the car and check how much
movement there is on the steering wheel rim simple, standard approach-you want the best
price for your car. With this end in view, whilst
before the wheels move. There should not be
more than two inches as an absolute maximum. we hope that you will be given value for money
Any more than this indicates wear in the link- at the same time, a basic method of preparation
age. for the car exists. Cleanliness is all. The cleaner
Check the condition of the shock absorbers the car, the higher the price. The bodywork’s
by bouncing the car on its suspension at all four condition, both inside and out, is usually the
corners. Good shock absorbers will return the main selling point. Mechanical repair work is
car to rest almost immediately; with worn often cheaper and faster to undertake than
shock absorbers the car will continue to bounce extensive bodywork repairs or renovation. The
for a second or so. condition of the bodywork is usually indicative
of the total condition of the car because it will
Having checked all these points, tell the show signs of age and disrepair sooner than the
seller of the car that you would like a road test engine or gearbox, particularly on cars more
(this is not possible at car auctions). Do not than three years old. It is unlikely that owners
immediately drive the car yourself, but spend will keep their cars in excellent condition
the first few minutes in checking a few more mechanically and allow the body to drop off
points such as the interior noise level, excessive around it. Attend to the paintwork, chrome
transmission noise, clonks on taking up the and all exterior trim, clean the outside thor-
drive indicating worn universal joints or final oughly and polish the car, clean out the boot,
drive unit. the engine compartment and ‘spring clean’ the
When you start driving yourself check the interior. Methods of doing this are explained in
following points:- the Bodywork Chapter of this book. Because of
a) Does the car steer well without wandering the short time usually taken to actually
and too much correcting? complete a sale there can only be something
b) Is the gearbox smooth and does the synchro- less than a complete detailed check by a poten-
mesh operate well without crunching the tial purchaser and rather more, a quick visual
gears? one.
c) Try the brakes, first gently then hard, As there are various ways of buying a used
warning your passenger of your intention to car so there are similar methods of selling but
do so. Dothey pull the car up quickly, they are considered on their merits from com-
without judder and without pulling the car pletely different standpoints. The way in which
to one side? you sell your car will depend on why you are
selling. The best prices are often obtained when
Once your road test has been completed
part exchanging your car for a new one from an
open the bonnet again and check that there still
accredited dealer. However, shop around from
are no signs of leaking oil and water.
dealer to dealer; their buying-in prices will vary
If you want to make sure you are paying a according to how eager they are to sell the new
reasonable price for the car it is worth pur- car you want, and how eager they are to have
chasing a copy of the ‘Motorists Guide to New your present car to re-sell. Nevertheless, with
and Used Car Prices’ which is published many dealers not wanting used cars of more
monthly and can be found on most bookstalls. than three years old it may be better to sell
It gives a very fair assessment as to the value of privately whatever your circumstances. Here
a used car, according to model, year, condition, local papers, notice boards etc are the best
etc. The decision to buy or not now rests with media.
you. It is unlikely that you will receive the best
56 Buying and Selling a Used Rover 2000
me
price from a used car dealer at least as a cash and you may be fortunate enough to live in a
transaction, unless he requires a good example high demand area such as London or eastern
for a particular customer, because he will have England where prices will again be marginally
to put his mark-up onto the car to re-sell. higher than elsewhere.
Remember when selling your car that the
Auctions do not often provide the best
law exists both to protect you and the buyer.
recompense. You can, of course, put on a
The Trades Description Act does affect you as
reserve price. They usually do provide a sale
the seller. If the car you are selling is under a
though, if you are finding it difficult to sell
hire purchase agreement, the permission of the
your particular car.
finance company must be obtained first.
The same premise applies when you are Irrespective of the age of your car it must have
selling your car as when you are buying one a current road fund licence, MOT certificate
with regard to the actual selling price. The same (when applicable) and insurance before it can
guide is valid. However, there are other even be tested on the road. Always give a
indications. Go around to various dealers and receipt and do not part with the car and log
ask them for the prices of used cars of a similar book until you are sure you have the money if
age and condition to yours and look at the you are paid by cheque. Do not forget to make
prices in the local papers, and then fix a reason- sure your name is removed from the log book,
able price and be prepared to bargain. There are and the buyer’s inserted and that the local
obviously price trends with regard to time and Taxation Office is informed of a charge of
place to sell. Prices creep upwards in the spring ownership.
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70

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

1 Inhibitor switch ) All LHD automatic models with 12 Gear change illumination
2 Reverse light switch ) inertia-type starter motors 13 Ignition switch terminal number ) Germany
3. Ignition coil ) 14 Ignition switch oak
4 Ballast resistor ) All LHD 2000 15 Ignition coil )
5 Starter relay ) automatic 16 To distributor )
6 Starter motor solenoid ) models
7 In-line connector ) with pre-
8 Terminal post ) engaged
9 Inhibitor switch ) starter
10 Ignition and starter switch terminal number ) motor
11 Reverse light switch

OPTIONAL EXTRAS CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

1 Radio feed and illumination pick-up point 8 Auxiliary lamp, RH

2 In-line fuse (10 amp) for heated backlight 9 Auxiliary lamp, LH
3 Illuminated switch for heated backlight 10 Switch for headrest lamp
4 Heated backlight 11 Headrest lamp
5 Fog lamp, RH 12 Plug and socket for headrest lamp
6 Foglamp, LH 13 Pick-up points when two lamps are fitted
7 Switch, auxiliary lamp 14 In-line fuse (10 amp) for rear seat light
Fault Finding Charts
How to use the fault finding section
The fault finding section has been compiled to help the owner deal with two very different sets of
circumstances. The most annoying and frustrating type of fault is when the car will not start or when
it breaks down on a journey. For this there is an elimination chart that goes methodically through
various tests. The other type of fault is the worrying kind: odd noises, or the car not going properly.
These have been tabulated under the heading of the symptom. Even if you cannot rectify one of
these latter faults, you must at least be able to find whether it is safe to continue.
The following main groups have been used to separate the information:

The Chart The Tables

Engine stoppages General engine faults
Electrical failures
Clutch defects
Brake defects
Running problems
Tyre wear

Engine stoppage: It will not start, or stops on in the chart as ‘starter cranks sluggishly’.
the road 5 In the stoppage chart reference is made to
various tests. These are listed after the chart.
1 There are many possible defects, so finding
the cause will be difficult, and nigh impossible, Engine stoppages: test for use in conjunction
unless a logical course is followed. with the chart
2 From statistical surveys at causes of a large
number of breakdowns, it is apparent that the
ignition system is more often to blame than the TESTS OF THE IGNITION SYSTEM
petrol system. The fault finding sequence there-
fore aims to eliminate the fuel system at an Test 1.1
early stage.
3 Failure to start from cold is usually a com- Check ignition HT at a plug
bination of damp and dirt on the ignition
system and that system anyway giving a weak a) Switch on ignition
spark because of overdue maintenance, all b) Take an HT lead off a plug
aggravated by a weak battery. c) Hold metal contact of the fitting on the end
4 It may be misleading to treat a car’s failure of the lead 1/8 inch froma bright metal ‘earth’
to start as a definite defect. On a cold damp such as the cylinder head. If the plug lead
day it is often best to try a push start before fitting has a shroud to cover the plug, stick a %
going into the fault finding sequence. The inch bolt into the contact as a probe
slightest lack of verve in the way the starter d) Operate the starter
spins the engine should therefore be interpreted e) There should be an easily noticeable spark
 Engine will |

Starter ¢ Starter
does NOT turn cranks sluggishly
or will not engage

Ignition warning Ignition warning

light stays bright. light goes dim
or out, or never
came on.

Starter or wiring Flat battery.

fault. Get push-start.
Recharge battery.

Loose battery
terminal.
Clean and tighten.

Fuel checks.
i]
Check flow into float
chamber: (Test P. 1.)

oS
FLOW
ee NO FLOW
Check carburettor. Remove pipe at
Raise piston lifting pin pump outlet and
and check that piston operate starter.
is free to move. Check igni
| timing.
NO FLOW
Clean carburettor.

Check at pump
Inlet (Test P.2.)

SUCTION “FLOW” FLOW

but NO “FLOW” but no suction.
| Pipe to
Check filler cap carburettor blocked:
breather clear. Remove and clean.

Check pipes back

to tank. Check Pump.
 Starter cranks
engine well
Engine stops
on the road

Recheck controls: Ignition on?

Choke set?

Foolish Faults: Fuel in tank?

Engine soused by floods?
Ignition leads fallen off?
Parts left off on assembly?
Carburettor flooding: float stuck?

Ignition on, use starter:

Check HT spark at plug lead.
(Test | 1.)

NO SPARK
’
Check HT spark at
lead from coil. (Test |. 2.)

SPARK NO SPARK

Check distributor cap for visual check of all leads

cracks, dirt, moisture. |
| Check LT flash at c.b.
Check Rotor arm (Test |. 3.)
(Test |. 4.)

FLASH NO FLASH
'
Visual check of Trace back down
c.b. components and cleanliness wiring to eliminate
of points. wiring fault or
! coil failure.
Check points actually
open and close as
engine turns.

Change condenser.
74 Fault finding

Test 1.2 f) Continuous sparks mean there is current

flow to somewhere, thus a faulty rotor arm
Ignition HT at source
TESTS OF THE PETROL SYSTEM
a) If possible take the central, King, lead from
the distributor cap and hold it 1/8 inch from Test P.1
earth and repeat as for test 1
b) If the king lead is not readily detachable Fuel flow into carburettor
from the distributor cap, remove it from the
coil and rig up a temporary lead a) Remove the fuel pipe where it enters the
carbilrettor
Test 1.3 b) Prime the pump by hand. (Take care the
pipe is not pointed at ignition leads or a hot
Check ignition LT at contact breaker exhaust pipe)
c) Fuel should gush out of the pipe
a) Remove distributor cap
b) Switch on ignition Test P.2
c) Open contact breaker points with a thin
screwdriver or if the engine has stopped so that Check fuel flow into the pump
they are already open, short them with the
screwdriver a) This is difficult to check as the pump draws
d) There should be a small but definite spark fuel up by suction
b) Remove the pipe into the pump from the
Test 1.4 tank
c) Suck on the end of the pipe and find if
Check the rotor arm petrol can be drawn up. But beware petrol does
not get into the mouth. Ideally lengthen the
a) This test is to see of there is a short through pipe with some clear plastic tubing so that the
the body of the rotor arm to the spindle flow of petro! can be seen coming. If by mis-
beneath chance fuel gets into the mouth spit it out at
b) Rig up the king lead as for test 1.2, or a once, cough and spit some more
substitute lead d) If petrol can not be drawn up by sucking try
c) But hold the lead, not to the block, but near blowing. Have an assistant listen at the tank for
the centre of the metal contact on the top of the bubbling of the blowing. If there is resist-
the rotor arm ance at first, and then it eases, it could be that
d) Operate the starter the blowing has pushed out a blockage
e) There should be only one small spark as the e) Also whilst the pipe is off the pump inlet,
metallic mass of the rotor arm contact is elect- prime the pump by hand. The suction of the
rically charged and then no further sparks pump should be felt.
 75

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 95

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100

Three quarter front view of Base Unit

Note: Shaded panels are non-serviceable

Three quarter rear view of Base Unit

Note: Shaded panels are non-serviceable
 101

Layout of ‘Three Can’ Exhaust System (3rd type) SC models

102

Layout of ‘Three Can’ Exhaust System (4th type)

Layout of ‘Two Can’ Exhaust System (5th type) SC, TC and Automatic models
Metric Conversion Tables

Inches Millimetres

0.001 0.0254
0.002 0.0508
0.003 0.0762
0.004 0.1016
0.005 0.1270
0.006 0.1524
0.007 0.1778
0.008 0.2032
0.009 0.2286
0.01 0.254
0.02 0.508
0.03 0.762
0.04 1.016
0.05 1.270
0.06 1.524
0.07 1.778
0.08 2.032
0.09 2.286

Torque Wrench Settings

Kgm

—
AWN
SCOMOOANOO =SSCBYHFHMAWA
885 88s
 Metric Conversion Table

Distance

Kilometres Kilometres

1.61
3.22
4.83
6.44
8.05
9.66
11.27
12.88
14.48 —
OONOOARWN
16.09
32.19
48.28
64.37
80.47
96.56
112.65
80 128.75
90 144.84
100 160.93

Capacities

Litres Litres Pints Gallons _ Litres Gallons

0.57 1.76 4.55 0.22

1.14 3.52 0.09 0.44
1.70 5.28 13.64 0.66
aH 7.04 18.18 0.88
2.84 8.80 22.73 1.10
3.41 10.56 27.28 12s2
3.98 12.32 31.82 1.54
4.55 14.08 36.37 1.76
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=
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WNH
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OMNOA 1.98
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5.58 ——
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6.25 50.01 4.40
6.82 =NN
— 54.56 6.60
 105
Metric Conversion Table

Tyre Pressures

Ib/sq in Kg/sq cm Kg/sq cm Ib/sq in

0.07 14.22
0.14 28.50
0.21 42.67
0.28 56.89
0.35 FAA
0.42 85.34
0.49 99.56
0.56 113.79
0.63 OANDOAWN128.00
0.70 142.23
nN
— 1.41 284.47
SScSwvmvonawn=e 2.11 426.70

Decimals Millimetres

0.3969
0.7937
1.5875
BsH750
4.7625
6.3500
7.9375
9.5250
LAA25
12.7000
14.2875
15.8750
17.4625
19.0500
20.6375
22.2250
23:02 5
Index

A Carpets - cleaning - 45
Air cleaner - replacement - 34, 39 Choke control - 25
Anti-freeze - 27 Chromium plating - cleaning - 46
Automatic transmission - controls - 21 Cigar lighter - 25
data - 9 Clutch - data - 9
downshift cable setting - 34 - fault finding - 87
driving technique - 21, 24 - fluid reservoir topping up - 31
fluid level check - 31 Compression ratio - 9
normal driving conditions - 23 Controls - 20, 25
special driving conditions - 23 Coolingsystem ~- data- 10
starting the engine - 23 - draining -'42
- filling - 42
B - flushing - 42
Battery - faults - 84 - loss of water - 79
- maintenance - 37 Crankcase breather filter - maintenance - 39
Bodywork - cleaning - 45, 46
- lubrication - 38
- minor repairs - 47 D
- paint touch-up - 46 De Dion tube - lubrication - 38
- rust prevention - 47 Dimensions - car - 12
- steam cleaning underside - 45 Direction indicators - 25
Braking system - bleeding - 41 Distributor - contact points servicing - 35
- checking for wear - 37, 38, 51 - faults - 80
- data- 11 - lubrication - 37
- fault finding - 89 Dynamo - lubrication - 34
- fluid level warning switch - 31 - Lucas C42 - 85
- fluid reservoir topping up - 31
- front caliper (Girling) - 92
- general information - 27
- layout (Dunlop) - 90 E
- layout (Girling) - 91 Electrical system - data - 10
Bulbs - 12, 42 Engine -data-9
Buying - 53 - excessive mechanical noise - 81
- excessive oil consumption - 80
Cc - fault finding - 72, 73
Capacities - 13 - lack of power - 76
Carburettor - adjustment - 34 - misfires - 78
- air intake (TC) - 27 - overheating - 78
- damper dashpot lubrication - 34 - pinking - 80
- faults - 76 - stalling - 76
- general lubrication - 38 - stoppages - 71
- SC models - 77 Exhaust system - checking - 38
 Index

F
O
Facia- 20 Oil changing - engine - 30
Fan belt - adjustment - 39 - final drive - 40
Fault finding - brakes - 89 - gearbox - 40
- clutch - 87 Oil leaks - 80
- engine - 72, 73 Oil pressure - low - 81
- fuel system - 74
- ignition system - 71
Pp
- steering - 98
Final drive - lubrication - 31 Panel light switch - 25
- oil changing - 40 Performance data - 15
Flame trap - replacement - 39 Propeller shaft - lubrication - 34
Flasher light - 42
Fuel pump - maintenance - 40
Fuel reserve - 25
R
Rear light - 42
Fuel system - data - 10
Road test - after maintenance - 38
G - data- 15
Gearbox - data - 10 - MOT test - 52
- lubrication - 31 Routine maintenance - safety - 29
- oil changing - 40 - weekly - 29
Rust prevention - 47
H
Handbrake - checking - 37
S
- lubrication - 38
Seat belts - 26, 38, 52
Hazard switch - 25
Seats (front) - adjustment - 21, 22
Headlamps - alignment - 40 Selling - 55
- dipper - 25 Side light - 42
- flasher - 25 Spares - ordering - 28
- removal - 42 - to carry - 17
Heating syste, - 26 Spark plugs - faults - 78
History of marque/models - 7 - maintenance - 35
Horn - 25 - replacement - 39
Steering - checking for wear - 51
| - column adjustment - 22
Ignition - timing - 44 - column lock - 24
Iynition system - data - 11 - data - 11, 97
- fault finding - 71 - fault finding - 98
- wiring diagram - 75 - lubrication - 39
Instruments - 20, 22 - maintenance - 37, 39
Interior light switch - 25 Suspension - data- 11
- front - 95
J - rear - 94
Jacking points - 27
T
L
Lights - bulb replacement - 42 Tachometer - 25
- checking - 51 Thermostat - faults - 79, 80
- failure - 84 Tools - 16
Lubricants - recommended - 19 Touring pack - 17
Lubrication chart - 18 Transmission - judder - 96
Tyres - checking for wear - 38
M - data- 12
Model identification - 7 - pressures - 12
MOT test - 51 - wear - 99
108 Index

U WwW
Upholstery - cleaning - 45 Warning lights - 25
Weights - car - 13
Wheels -changing - 27
- type- 12
Windows - heated rear - 25
V Windscreen washers - 25, 52
Vehicle identification - 28 Windscreen wipers - 25, 44, 52
Ventilating syste, - 26 Wiring diagrams - 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64,
Vibration - 96 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70
 109

Castfol craves
Castrol Engine Oils Castrol Gear Oils (continued) Castrol Greases (continued)

Castrol GTX Castro! Hypoy Light (80 EP) Castrol CL

An ultra high performance SAE 20W/50 motor A very light-bodied powerful extreme pressure A semi-fluid calcium based grease, which is
oil which exceeds the latest API MS gear oil for use in hypoid rear axles in cold both waterproof and adhesive, intended for
requirements and manufacturers’ specifications. climates and in some gearboxes. chassis lubrication.
Castrol GTX with liquid tungstent generously
protects engines at the extreme limits of Castrol Hypoy B (90 EP) Castrol Medium
performance, and combines both good cald A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear A medium consistency calcium based grease.
starting with oil consumption control. oil that complies with the requirements of the
Approved by leading car makers. MIL-L-2105B specification, for use in certain Castrol Heavy
gearboxes and rear axles, A heavy consistency calcium based grease,
Castrol XL 20/50
Contains liquid tungstent; well suited to the Castrol Hi-Press (140 EP) Castrol PH
majority of conditions giving good oil A heavy-bodied extreme pressure gear oil for A white grease for plunger housings and
consumption control in bath new and old cars. use in spiral beyel rear axles and some other moving parts on brake mechanisms.
gearboxes. /t must NOT be allowed to come into.contact
Castrolite (Multi-grade)
with brake fluid when applied to the moving
This is the lightest multi-grade oil of the Castrol ST (90) parts of hydraulic brakes.
Castro] motor oil family containing liquid A light-bodied gear oil with fortifying additives
tungstent. It is best suited ta ensure easy Castrol Graphited Grease
winter starting and for thase car models whose Castrol D (140) A graphited grease for the lubrication of
manufacturers specify lighter weight oils. transmission chains.
A heavy full-bodied gear oil with fortifying
Castro! Grand Prix additives.
Castrol Under-Water Grease
An SAE 50 engine oil for use where a heavy, Castrol Thio-Hypoy FD (90 EP) A grease for the under-water gears of
full-bodied lubricant is required. outboard motors.
A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear
Castrol Two-Stroke-Four oil. This is a special oil for running-in certain
hypoid gears.
A premium SAE 30 motor oil possessing good
Anti-Freeze
detergency characteristics and corrosion
inhibitors, coupled with low ash forming Castrol Anti-Freeze
tendency and excellent anti-scuff properties. Contains anti-corrosion additives with ethylene
It is suitable for all two-strake motor-cycles, Automatic Transmission Fluids
glycol. Recommended for the cooling systems
and for two-stroke and small four-stroke of all petrol and diesel engines.
horticultural machines. Castrol TOF
(Automatic Transmission Fluid)
Castrol CR (Multi-grade) Speciality Products
Approved for use in all Borg-Warner
A high quality engine oil of the SAE-20W /30 Automatic Transmission Units. Castrol TOF
multi-grade type, suited to mixed fleet also meets Ford specification M2C 33F. Castrol Girling Damper Oil Thin
operations. The oil for Girling piston type hydraulic
Castrol TO Dexron® dampers.
Castrol! CRI 10, 20, 30
(Automatic Transmission Fluid)
Primarily for diesel engines, a range of Castrol Shockol
heavily fortified, fully detergent oils, covering Complies with the requirements of
Dexron® Automatic Transmission Fluids A light viscosity oil for use in some piston
the requirements of DEF 2101-D and type shock absorbers and in some hydraulic
Supplement 1 specifications. as laid down by General Motors
Corporation.
systems employing synthetic rubber seals. It
must not be used in braking systems.
Castrol CRB 20, 30
Primarily for diesel engines, heavily fortified, Castrol Penetrating Oil
fully detergent oils, covering the requirements A leaf spring lubricant possessing a high
of MIL-L-2104B. Castrol Greases degree of penetration and providing protection
against rust.
Castrol R 40 Castrol LM
Primarily designed and developed for highly Castrol Solvent Flushing Oil
A multi-purpose high melting point lithium
stressed racing engines. Castrol ‘R’ should not A light-bodied solvent oil, designed for
based grease approved for most automotive
be mixed with any other oil nor with any applications including chassis and wheel flushing engines, rear axles, gearboxes and
grade of Castrol. bearing lubrication. gearcasings.
tLiquid Tungsten is an oil soluble long
chain tertiary alky/ primary amine tungstate Castrol MS3 Castrollo
covered by British Patent No. 882,295.
A high melting point lithium based grease An upper cylinder lubricant for use in the
containing molybdenum disulphide. proportion of 1 fluid ounce to two gallons
of fuel.
Castrol Gear Oils
Castrol BNS
Everyman Oil
Castrol Hypoy (90 EP) A high melting point grease for use where
A light-bodied powerful extreme pressure gear recommended by certain manufacturers in A light-bodied machine oil containing anti-
oil for use in hypoid rear axles and in some front wheel bearings when disc brakes are corrosion additives for both general use and
fitted. cycle lubrication.
gearboxes.
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 Titles in the Haynes Owners Handbook/Maintenance
Manuals Series

er

Austin A35 and A40 (101) Hillman Hunter/Minx (145)

Austin Allegro (142) MGB (146)
Austin Maxi (075) Morris Marina (066)
BLMC 1100/1300 (042) Morris Minor 1000 (058)
BLMC 1800 (105) Sprite/Midget (143)
BLMC Mini (041) Rover 2000 (151)
Ford Anglia 105E/123E (045) Triumph Herald (060)
Ford Capri 1300/1600 (063) Triumph 1300/1500 (077)
Ford Corsair 1500 (065) Triumph 2000, 2.5 PI (102)
Ford Corsair V4 (100) Vauxhall Viva HA (059)
Ford Cortina Mk 1 (046) Vauxhall Viva HB (043)
Ford Cortina Mk 2 (056) Vauxhall Viva HC (064)
Ford Cortina Mk 3 (099) Vauxhall Victor FB (061)
Ford Escort (057) Vauxhall Victor 101 (FC) (149)
Ford Transit (144) Vauxhall Victor FD (076)
Ford Zephyr Mk IV (103) Vauxhall Victor FE (104)
Hillman Avenger (062) VW Beetle (106)
Hillman Imp (044)

More titles are in preparation Retail price 75p each

A full range of Owner’s Workshop Manuals also is available
from the publishers

GS TOT RE OE PET SEL SIE IE IE TE LT LEELL,LEBEL EATE LOGEEDED EDEL LEY

Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it
Must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within
the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability
can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by errors or omissions in
the information given.
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 All Rover 2000 models, SC and TC, from 1 963

This Maintenance Manual/Owners Handbook is\for all Rover 2000 owners

who want to reduce their motoring costs, enjoy reliable trouble free
motoring, extend their car's life and maintain its resale Value.‘Written speci-
fically for the Rover 2000. owner ,the contents |bie how to main-
tain and service all‘models correctly to help give sa more ‘enjoyable
motoring. A further advantage is that,t,by doing your aur maintenance you
will dramatically reduce your motoring bills not waste'time while your
car is in the garage. Minor repairs are carefully ained -even inexperienced
amateurs can follow everything clearly. Extepsive ault finding charts pinpoin
troubles and will help get you moving if Yeu: cannot start, or break down
There is also a complete section showing how to check and‘prepare yo ==
Rover 2000. for the MOT test. Specifications, road test data, productio:
history, model identification and ‘how to buy a good used Rover 2000’ are als
included. »
Carry this book in your car and it F should save you its modest cost
times over. Won

Price 75p “a 0 85696 151

un