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380110 5
VNU

Triumph 00TC
& Dolomite1500—
Owners

Manual
byJH Hayr~*
Member of the Guild * .ers

and Alec cS BSc Eng, C Eng \

Models cove.

Triumph 1500TC. 1493 cc

Dolomite 1500 and 1500OHL. 1493 cc |

Covers overdrive, manual and automatic transmission

ISBN O 85696 369 O

© Haynes Publishing Group 1978 2292/60

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission
in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

/s. » PUBLISHING GROUP

--& 3D YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND
ie i BL / ‘JINS INC
vi IMENCE O-1VE
IEV AY PP OK
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to British Leyland UK Limited for the supply of Son (Wimborne) Ltd., and in particular Mr S P White.
technical information and certain illustrations, and the Champion
Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the Lastly, special thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who
various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used assisted in the production of this manual. Particularly, Brian Horsfall
in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries who supply Turtle and Leon Martindale who carried cut the mechanical work and took
Wax’, ‘Dupli-Color Holts’, and other Holts range products. the photographs respectively; Pete Ward who edited the text and
We acknowledge with gratitude the help received from Tice and Stanley Randolph who planned the layout of each page.

About this manual

[ts aims numbered Sections, eg. 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or Sub-
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they
car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work are in, (eg. 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc).
must be done (even should you choose to get it done*by a garage), It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a
provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms
logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in
However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the werk sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the
yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car Chapter: eg. Fig. 6.4 is the 4th drawing/illustration in Chapter 6.
into a garage, and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps Photographs are numbered (either individually or in related groups) the
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the same as the Section or Sub-section of the text where the operation
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. they show is described.
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual! as well as
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Thén a contents list at the front.
the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a
so that even a novice can do the work. person in a seat facing forwards.
Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this
/ts arrangement manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or
The manual is divided into twelve Chapters, each covering a publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into omissions from, the information given.
Chapter Sections Page Section Page

Introductory sections Buying spare parts 8 Lubrication chart \\2

Routine maintenance 9 Tools and working facilities 13

1 Engine Removal 19 Reassembly ALT]

Renovation 24 ~~ Refitting 36

2 Cooling system Draining/fiiling 38 Flushing 40

Antifreeze 39 Thermostat 40
Radiator 39 ~Fan belt 42

3 Fuel and exhaust systems Air cleaner 43 Fuel pump 50

Carburettors bs 43 Fuel tank 50
Throttle 48 Exhaust system 51

4 Ignition system Distributor 53 Ignition timing 57

Contact breaker points 54 Spark plugs 60

5 Clutch Bleeding 62 Removal and refitting 65

Slave cylinder ; 62 Release mechanism 66
Master cylinder 64 Pedal and support bracket 66

6 Gearbox, overdrive and Three rail gearbox 70. ~=Overdrive 92

automatic transmission Single rail gearbox 84 Automatic transmission 99

7 Propeller shaft Propeller shaft 84 Universal joints “99

8 Rear axle Halfshafts ; 111. Pinion oil seal 115

Differential assembly 113. Removal and refitting aS

9 Braking system Bleeding 119 Handbrake 122

Master cylinder 119 Front brake 123
Servo unit 120. Rear brake WAS)

10 Electrical system Battery 129 Lights 138

Alternator 130 Switches 140
Starter motor 431 Instruments 142
Windscreen wipers 134 Wiring diagrams 145

11 Suspension and steering Front suspension 153 Steering gear 162

Rear suspension : 160 Wheel alignment 167

12 Bodywork and underframe Maintenance 169 Heater WAS,

Damage repair WA Bonnet 181
Doors 172 Boot 181
Seats ; 178 Bumpers 182

!n addition each Chapter contains, where applicable, Specifications, General description and Fault diagnosis

Metric conversion tables 183

Index 185
Use of English
As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these
differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare
parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

Glossary -

English American English American

ea a i>

Accelerator Gas pedal Leading shoe (of brake) Primary shoe

Alternator Generator (AC) Locks Latches
Anti-roll bar we Stabiliser or sway bar Motorway Freeway, turnpike etc.
Battery at Energizer Number plate Licence plate
Bonnet (engine cover Hood Paraffin Kerosene
Boot lid fr a Trunk lid Petrol Gasoline
Boot (luggage compartment) Trunk Petrol tank Gas tank
Bottom gear 1st gear ‘Pinking’ ‘Pinging’
Bulkhead a Firewall Propellor shaft Driveshaft
Camfollower or tappet Valve lifter or tappet Quarter light Quarter window
Carburettor Carburetor Retread Recap
Catch Latch Reverse Back-up
Choke/venturi Barrel Rocker cover Valve cover
Circlip Snap ring Roof rack Car-top carrier
Clearance Lash Saloon Sedan
Crownwheel Ring gear (of differential) Seized ae Frozen
Disc (brake) Rotor/disk Side indicator lights Side marker lights
Drop arm Pitman arm Side light 3 Parking light
Drop head coupe Convertible Silencer Muffler
Dynamo Generator (DC) Spanner seg Wrench
Earth (etectrical) Ground Sill panel (beneath doors) Rocker panel
Engineer's blue Prussion blue Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Lock (for valve spring retainer)
Estate car Station wagon Split pin = Cotter pin
Exhaust manifold Header Steering arm Spindle arm
Fast back (Coupe) Hard top Sump Oil pan
Fault finding/diagnosis Trouble shooting Tab washer Tang; lock
Float chamber Float bowl Tailgate Liftgate
Free-play Lash Tappet Valve lifter
Freewheel Coast Thrust bearing Throw-out bearing
Gudgeon pin Piston pin or wrist pin Top gear a High
Gearchange Shift Trackrod (of steering Tie-rod (or connecting rod)
Gearbox Transmission Trailing shoe (of brake) Secondary shoe
Halfshaft Axle-shaft Transmission “i Whole drive line
Handbrake Parking brake Tyre Tire
Hood Soft top Van Panel wagon/van
Hot spot Heat riser Vice Vise
Indicator Turn signat Wheel nut Lug nut
Interior light Dome lamp Windscreen Windshield
Layshaft (of gearbox) Counter shaft Wing/mudguard Fender

Cen
a ease Selena Sbesentaeiansaremert

Miscellaneous points
EE SSeS

An “Oil seal’’ is fitted to components lubricated by grease!

A “Damper” is a “Shock absorber’ it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both
are used haphazardly.
Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result
The shoe end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most
uncommon. Therefore the phrase “Primary” or ‘‘Secondary”’ shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading or Trailing. A “Leading”
shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the
anchor end. The opposite is a trailing shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.
Introduction to the Triumph
1500 TC and the Dolomite 1500 and 1500 HL
ee ee ee
The Triumph 1500 TC was introduced in October of 1973 with a bar. The 1500 HL is a more luxurious version of the Dolomite 1500.
conventional rear wheel drive to replace the earlier front wheel drive All models have the same basic body styling, and use engines and
models. It was superseded in March 1976 by the Dolomite 1500 gearboxes which have been used on other Leyland models.
which was basically the same, but had the addition of a front torsion

General dimensions, weights and capacities

1500 TC ‘Dolomite 1500
8 fi OF in (2454 mm) 8 ft 02 in (2454 mm)

BRONICME ee, cc ee ear Pea IL ERE oat chou Pet chee accheae Ae e ike 4 ft 5 in (1346 mm) 4 ft 54 in (1352 mm)
4 ft 2 in (1270 mm) 4 ft 2 in (1270 mm)

LUPNING CICIG: ocr ks ie rata ohca ene Wane Sleate e e Nne, ck 30 ft 6 in (9.3 m) 30 ft 6 in (9.3 m)

Cverall dimensions
LISTHTC)1)PaaS Saou OMCe eehe One Ses ey Ge nee Olas a ieee cee eer eee 13 ft 6 in (4110 mm) 13 ft 64 in (4122 mm)
ICE Pian cose toes ke tere Ae en A A Techn ect Vite I AR Cn Mesa 5ft 12 in (1568 mm) 5 ft 24 in (1588 mm)
4 ft6 in (1372 mm) 4 ft 6 in (1372 mm)

Weights (approx)
Diy exiextrarcQuipmelt) meky oemera cern aid oe oeiioiansi a uae i chawa ean o.6 1960 Ib (888 kg) 2006 Ib (910 kg)
Basic kerb (inc. tools, fuel, oil and water) .............0000 eves 2072 Ib (937 kg) 2116 |b (960 kg)
Grossi veniclewwelgntiitax) mee aeteccei trance cee ccats sen toivgy aethiie icons 2884 Ib (1314 kg) 2954 |b (1340 kg)

Interior dimensions (seats empty)

Front
VViclthi— lOO GOON mmr eae ciee rene) eyarees. os ecient crsgegnl ea cco)2 edhe 49.25 in (1251 mm) 49.25 in (1251 mm)
Seat widths mecnees sei ee ceceae, cadens melas BiGaNa tic nie lus 23 in (584 mm) 23 in (584 mm)
Seatheight (floortoicuishion) ia: + ecco. 2 cle oot eoeecniens mc eae 12 in (305 mm) 12 in (305 mm)
Seat depth: Bere sete ee se Foss Mw soate . Suereimrescaens Eats 19 in (483 mm) 19 in (483 mm)
Headroom fronmiseavcushiOM) mest. cet 5 misesic tay eso niteloner asics nl aMells fe 36 in (914 mm) 38 in (965 mm)
Squab to clutch pecdalnrax) cases cieiew ae ericson trometotr, lteter os larelles 38 in (965 mm) 38.5 in (978 mm)
Steering wheel clearance from seat squab (max) .............0055 19 in (483 mm) 19 in (483 mm)
UPILA) Seka Cache tones eehrRO Rene 9 in (229 mm) 10 in (254 mm)
Steering wheel clearance from seat cushion (nominal) ............. 4.63 in (118 mm) 6.50 in (165 mm)

Rear
Reatrseat cirective WiGtil menue lias cws kere iincttcaic Dha eerakssacetoie & o 46 in (1170 mm) 46 in (1170 mm)
Reariseat height— floor tO CUSMION as cerns mie i die ales lasso eet temins 14 in (356 mm) 14 in (356 mm)
Rearseat deptinee nec temsritr chery aie neniae eofeuaselcun isis etersum ciliohiateo =)2 19 in (483 mm) 19 in (483 mm)
Rear headroom idroniseaticushiOm) meres cic eeie mitts: oll) sive bale elshat 36 in (914 mm) 36 in (914 mm)
Rearsquab to back of frommseauinax}me- sn stelts) sialon eie cables sce er 32 in (813 mm) 32 in (813 mm)
, LIVI) ere ea Oe ak ee end tee 26 in (661 mm) 26 in (661 mm)

Luggage compartment
Be potin,(aX) mereesnee sparse Pisce dhe eoshencsipsz ceavicyorte ac cone] Nun e Doniee Oa a 37 in (939 mm) 37 in (939 mm)
Viticl tibetWweenlWiheelranChOS) ontuwelelosshete
5cyl oie acoue race listen dele, pes: (oe 39.50 in (1003 mm) 40 in (1016 mm)

Capacities
RGtiGlitan meee entre eee ay actin cee geno chers sree urseyoain le Mies 12.5 gallons (57 litres) 12.5 gallons (57 litres)
Ae TOUT OFso earetes Paco Uo coubroso p Ore o-o,01E OU 0 oromct OIDs Coma ucmennnc 7.50 pints (4.25 litres) 7.50 pints (4.25 litres)
CEA ore= eOelnye tfc ase Ro ee 6 WR Oke Oo GO pete Sloat o orcnano weaNONOeG 1.375 pints (0.75 litres) 1.375 pints (0.75 litres)
GEATOXTanG OVElGhiVelmen am cious aires etait acres cers a loan iite wens is a,0.ayn 2.9 pints (1.65 litres) 2.9 pints (1.65 litres)
Retr ada =hennGhny suche de oe ee Ob 64 OD o Sid come Sune cet olnorae 1.5 pints (0.85 litres) 1.5 pints (0.85 litres)
Coolingisystemwithiheater 2% j.e 58s eee weet hte ee ewe ee 8.5 pints (4.8 litres) 9.5 pints (5.4 litres)

Maximumitowing weight 9 2p ee ets eee eee 1680 Ib (762 kg) 1680 |b (762 kg)
yduinuy00S)91
O0G1 auWwojog yduinuy
Buying spare parts
and vehicle identification numbers
Buying spare parts affixed to the top of the left-hand front wing valance.
Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Leyland The Engine number is stamped on a flange on the left-hand side of
garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our the cylinder block.
advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: The Gearbox number is stamped on the top right-hand face of the
Officially appointed Leyland garages: This is the best source of gearbox casing.
parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally avail- The Rear Axle number is stamped on the bottom flange of the axle
able (eg. complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, casing.
badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should Paint and Trim numbers are included on the Commission number
buy parts if your car is still under warranty as non-Leyland components plate.
may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it When obtaining new parts, remember that many assemblies can
will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and be exchanged. This is very much cheaper than buying them outright
chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive and throwing the old part away.
identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory
exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It
obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your
car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you.
Other garages aid accessory shops: These are often very good
places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of
your car (eg. oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases,
touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories,
usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can
often be found not far from home.
Motor factors: Good factors will stock all of the more important (J PAINT a
components which wear out relatively quickly (eg. clutch components, GROSS LADEN WEK ry
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/- MINIMUM KERB Gn
hoses/seals/shoes and pads, etc). Motor factors will often provide new
or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save
| MANUFACTURED
a considerable amount of money. “BRITIS HOLL
Vehicle identification numbers
When ordering new parts it is essential to give full details of your
car to the storeman. He will want to know the car model and details
found on the engine identification plate, and the chassis type. Year of
manufacture is necessary too. If at all possible take along the part to
be renewed.
If you want to re-touch the paintwork you can obtain an exact
match (providing the original paint has not faded) by quoting the paint
colour in conjunction with the model details. The commission number plate
The Commission number (Chassis number) is stamped on a plate
Routine maintenance
Routine maintenance is essential for ensuring safety, and desirable necessary a proprietary brand of cleaning fluid may be added.
for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and 4 When the tyres are cold (ie. before a run) check their pressures,
economy from any vehicle. In many instances, the largest element of not forgetting the spare. The correct pressures are given in Chapter 11.
maintenance is visual examination and a general sense of awareness. 5 When the engine is cool, check the level of the coolant. Top-up if
This may lead to repairs or renewals, but should help to avoid roadside necessary using rain water if possible; alternatively cooled boiled
breakdowns. water.
The maintenance summary is basically that recommended by the 6 Check the level of the fluid in the clutch and brake master cylinder
vehicle manufacturer, but in certain instances has been altered by the reservoirs. If necessary top-up with fluid of the correct specification
author where additional or more frequent checks are thought to be (photos). Note: /f the /eve/ has fallen drastically, refer to paragraphs 9
advisable. and 10.
7 Check the operation of all the lights, warning instruments,
windscreen washer, windscreen wipers, direction indicators, hazard
Weekly or before a long journey warning indicators, heated rear window, horns and luggage boot light.

1 With the car standing on level ground, check the oil level. Top-up,
if necessary, using a high quality multigrade engine oil. Do not overfill Every 3000 miles (5000 km) or three months
but always maintain the level at, or near, the full mark (photo).
2 Check the level of the battery electrolyte and top-up if necessary 8 Check the condition of the fan belt and renew if frayed or at the
with distilled water. limit of its adjustment. The procedure for fan belt adjustment and
3 Top-up the windscreen washer reservoir with clean water. lf renewal is given in Chapter 10 (photo).

Topping-up the engine oil Brake master cylinder reservoir

Clutch master cylinder reservoir Checking fan belt adjustment

10 Routine maintenance
i

9 Check for any leakage of oil, fuel and/or hydraulic fluid. This is best door, boot and bonnet hinges, lock strikers and seat adjusters.
done by giving the car a warming up run, then leaving overnight and 24 Top-up the carburettor piston dampers using engine oil (see
checking for any drips beneath. Remove the brake drums and also Chapter 3).
check around the calipers for any signs of brake fluid leakage. If any is 25 Give the car a warming up run, then wipe around the sump drain
present here, refer to Chapter 9 for information about renewing the plug. Remove the plug and drain the oil into a container of at least 8
rubber seals. pints (5 litres) capacity. When all the oil has drained, clean the drain
10 Inspect all rigid and flexible pipes in the hydraulic and fuel systems plug then refit it but do not replenish the system until the requirements
for corrosion, chafing and generai deterioration. Renew parts as of paragraph 26 has been carried out (photo).
necessary. 26 Unscrew the oil filter element, catching any oil spillage in a suit-
11 Check the exhaust system for security of fixing and any signs of able container. Clean the filter housing, fit a new element and refit to
gasket leakage or blow-holes in the silencer or pipes. the car. Top-up the system with a high quality multigrade engine oil
12 Check the condition of the gaiters on the steering rack, and the and run the engine at a fast idle until the oil pressure warning light ext-
steering and suspension balljoints, for deterioration. Also check all the inguishes.
balljoints for wear, making reference to Chapter 11 as necessary. Note: Your car manufacturer recommends more frequent oil and oil
13 Check the brake discs for scoring and the pads for wear. Renew tilter changes when the foilowing adverse motoring conditions apply:
pads which have worn down to 1/16 in (1.6 mm) or which are likely to
have worn down to this thickness before the next 3000 mile check. a) Stop/Start motoring with prolonged engine idling.
14 Check the tightness of the road wheel nuts. b) Regular short journey use.
15 Check the condition of the tyres, renewing any that have worn c) Frequent cold weather starting.
down to the statutory limit of 1 mm of tread. Radial ply tyres are fitted
as standard equipment and replacements of the same type are recom- 27 Clean the distributor contact points as described in Chapter 4.
mended. If excessive tyre wear is occurring, consult a Leyland dealer Apply two or three drops of engine oil to the lubrication points and
since it may be necessary to carry out a suspension alignment check. contact pivot, and smear a little general purpose grease over the cam
16 Arrange for a headlamp alignment check to be carried out. profile.
Although the beams can be readily reset (see Chapter 10) the only 28 Check the ignition timing and adjust if necessary as described in
really reliable method is to use the proper alignment equipment at a Chapter 4.
garage. 29 Clean the spark plugs, and inspect the electrodes and insulators
17 Check the condition of the wiper blades and renew them if they do for deterioration.
not give a satisfactory wiping action over the whole range of travel. 30 Remove the air cleaner elements. Using a stiff paint brush, clean
18 Check that there is no undue free travel of the brake pedal and any dust and dirt deposits from the elements and their housing.
handbrake lever. If this is found, adjust the handbrake cable and check 31 Check the carburettor mixture and idle settings, and balance the
the operation of the automatic adjusters on the rear brakes. Refer to carburettors if necessary. The procedure is given in Chapter 3. Note
Chapter 9 for further information. the special instructions for tamperproof carburettors.
19 Check the condition of the seat belts and the security of the 32 Apply a few drops of erigine oil or light lubricating oil to the linkage
attachment points. If any fraying of the webbing is found, the belts and pivot points of the carburettors.
should be renewed, since your life may depend on them. If any corro- 33 Check the battery terminals for security and corrosion. Clean off
sion around the attachment points is evident, seek the advice of a any corrosion deposits and smear the terminals with petroleum jelly
Leyland dealer without delay. (Vaseline).
20 Check the condition of the interior and exterior rear view mirrors 34 Carefully examine all the hoses in the cooling system for leaks,
both for security of attachment and damage to the glass. renewing any hoses which are either leaking or are showing any signs
21 Road test the car to check for general performance, satisfactory of cracking and/or crazing. Check the radiator and water pump for
operation of the brakes and steering, and for general rattles and leakage also.
knocks. 35 Check the oil level in the gearbox and top-up if necessary using
SAE 90 EP hypoid gear oil (photo). Where automatic transmission is
fitted, first drive the car for about five miles (8 km) then apply the
Every 6000 miles (10000 km) or 6 months handbrake and leave the engine running, with ‘P’ selected, for about
two minutes. With the engine still running, remove the dipstick, wipe it
22 Apply a few drops of engine oil or light lubricating oil to the pivot clean then re-insert it and check the level. Add type F automatic
points of the brake, clutch and accelerator pedals. transmission fluid to bring the level to the ‘High’ mark on the dipstick.
23 Apply a few drops of engine oil or light lubricating oil to the locks, On completion, switch the engine off then remove any dirt, etc from

Sump drain plug Manual gearbox filler and drain plugs (arrowed)
 Routine maintenance 11

Steering rack grease nipple Handbrake clevis pins

the cooling apertures beneath the unit. 44 Remove the engine oil filter cap, wash thoroughly in petrol using a
36 Check the rear axle oil level after first cleaning around the stiff paintbrush then shake off the surplus petrol. Wipe clean with a
filler/level plug then removing it. Top-up if necessary using SAE 90 EP lint-free rag then refit it on the engine.
hypoid gear oil. 45 Renew the elements in the carburettor air cleaners.
37 Remove the blanking p!ug on the suspension top balljoint and fit a 46 Check the tightness of all the nuts and bolts securing the suspen-
grease nipple. Apply three or four strokes of a grease gun charged with sion, subframe, steering unit, shock absorbers, propeller shaft coupl-
general purpose grease. ings and rear axle.
38 Apply five strokes of the grease gun to the nipple on the base of 47 With the handbrake on and the car firmly supported on axle
the steering rack assembly (photo). stands, remove the front wheel, hub dust cap and split pin. Carefully
39 Remove the blanking plug on the propeller shaft, fit a grease tighten the castellated nut whilst turning the wheel until resistance is
nipple then apply about five strokes from the grease gun. felt. Slacken the nut half a flat (ie. 30°) then fit a new split pin. Refit
40 Smear a little general purpose grease around the handbrake com- the dust cap and roadwheel, then lower the car to the ground.
pensator and clevis pins (photo), around the brake drum clevis pins, 48 Remove the rear brake drums and inspect the linings for wear.
and around the exposed ends of the inner cable. Renew any linings that have worn down to the rivet heads, or will have
41 Road test the car as described in paragraph 21. worn down by the next 12000 mile check. The procedure is given in
Chapter 9.
49 Road test the car as described in paragraph 21.
Every 12000 miles (20000 km) or 12 months

42 Remove the top cover of the fuel pump and clean any sediment Every 36000 miles (60000 km) or 3 years
from the filter and sediment bowl. On completion, fit the cap then run
the engine to check that there are no fuel leaks. 50 Renew the air filter in the brake servo.
43 Fit new spark plugs of the recommended type. See Chapter 4 for 51 Renew all the rubber seals, flexible pipes and brake fluid in the
further informatien. braking system.

Jacking and towing

For normal wheel changing, the jack supplied with the car should panels. Wherever possible use a wooden block on the jack-head to
be used. There are two jacking points on each side of the car, one at avoid possible damage.
each end of the sill panel. When using this method of jacking, always
chock one of the wheels remaining on the ground and apply the car If the car is used for emergency towing, or needs to be towed, a
handbrake. tow-rope may be attached around the rear axle-tube or around the
When working beneath the car, never rely solely upon the car jack, front subframe. Models with automatic transmission may be towed for
but use a trolley-type jack, axle-stands or concrete blocks for recovery purposes provided that the transmission is undamaged, the
additional support. The vehicle weight may be taken beneath the front oil level is correct and the selector is at N. Do not exceed a towing
subframe, beneath the rear axle-tube or at the jacking points on the sill distance of 20 miles (32 km) or a towing speed of 30mph (48 km/h).
 Lubrication chart

1 Radiator 8 Rear axle

2 Engine oil 9 Handbrake linkage and cable
3 Steering rack-and-pinion 10 Locks, hinges and catches
4 Carburettors 171 Distributor
5 Brake and clutch reservoirs 12 Battery terminals
6 Pedal pivots 73 Oil filter element
7 Gearbox/automatic transmission

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Component Type of lubricant or fluid Correct Castrol Products

Engine 20W/50 multigrade engine Castrol GTX

Carburettor piston dampers As for the engine Castrol GTX
Gearbox and overdrive 90 EP hypoid extreme pressure gear oil Castrol Hypoy
Rear axle As for the gearbox Castrol Hypoy
All chassis, steering and suspension Multi-purpose high melting point lithium Castrol LM Grease
greasing points based grease
Clutch and brake system reservoirs Brake and clutch fluid Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch
Fiuid :
Approved antifreeze solution Ethylene glycol type Castrol Antifreeze
Automatic transmission Automatic transmission fluid Castrol TOF
eeeer

In addition, Castrol Everyman Oil can be used to lubricate all hinges, locks, pivots, etc
ereeee
Tools and working facilities
Introduction Repair and overhaul tool kit
A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any
contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in
owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a consider- the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a com-
able expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it- prehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be
yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives
quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely are included in the set. We recommend the 3 in square-drive type, as
worthwhile investment. this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot
To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular
carry Out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled box spanners are a useful alternative.
three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by
minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to tools from the Spec/a/ list.
practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor
repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the
vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can
undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list
are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be Socket for crankshaft pulley nut (1 in x 16 TPI bolt)
built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period Socket for steering wheel nut (jin Whitworth)
of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it- Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets)
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repairs and over- Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets)
haul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he Universal joint (for use with sockets)
feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
put to. ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch
It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. Ball pein hammer
For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber
book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the Screwdriver - 6 in long x % in dia (flat blade)
publishers of this manual. Screwdriver - 2 in long x 2 in square (flat blade)
Screwdriver - 14 in long x 4 in dia (cross blade)
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit Screwdriver - 3 in long x } in dia (electricians)
The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum Pliers - electricians side cutters
requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair opera- Pliers - needle nosed
tions are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combina- Pliers - circlip (internal and external)
tion spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more Cold chisel - 3 inch
expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both Scriber
types of spanner. Scraper
Centre punch
Combination spanners - %, 4, % 2, + j, B inAF Pin punch
Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Hacksaw
Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable) Valve grinding tool
Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Steel rule/straight-edge
Spark plug gap adjustment too! Allen keys
Set of feeler gauges Selection of files
Brake bleed nipple spanner Wire brush (large)
Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (flat blade) Axle stands
Screwdriver - 4 in long x 4 in dia (cross blade) Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)
Combination pliers - 6 inch
Hacksaw, junior
Tyre pump
Tyre pressure gauge Special tools
Grease gun The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are
Oil can expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their
Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs
Wire brush (small) are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of
Funnel (medium size) these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing
14
hteTools and working facilities
eles Ese es
together with friends (or a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and
borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as
specialist. clean as possible.
The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely
available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find
occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text Spanner jaw gap comparison table
of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job
without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the Jaw gap (in.) Spanner size
case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have
to entrust the work to a franchised garage 0-250 tin. AF
0.275 7 mm AF
Valve spring compressor 0-312 2 in. AF
Piston ring compressor 0-315 8 mm AF
Balljoint separator 0-340 11/32 in. AF;% in. Whitworth
Universal hub/bearing puller 0-354 9 mm AF
/mpact screwdriver 0-375 2 in. AF
Micrometer and/or vernier gauge 0-393 10 mm AF
Carburettor flow balancing device 0.433 11mm AF
Dial gauge 0-437 & in.AF
Stroboscopic timing light 0-445 2 in. Whitworth;7 in. BSF
Dwell angle meter/tachometer 0-472 12 mm AF
Universal electrical multi-meter 0-500 sin.AF
Cylinder compression gauge 0.512 13 mm AF
Lifting tackle 0-525 z in. Whitworth;3 in. BSF
Trolley jack 0-551 14 mm AF
Light with extension lead 0-562 2 in.AF
0-590 15 mm AF
0-600 2 in. Whitworth; in. BSF
0-625 8 in. AF
Buying tools 0-629 16 mm AF
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will 0-669 17 mm AF
have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage 0-687 Bin.AF
or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer 0-708 18 mm AF
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. 0-710 3 in. Whitworth; in. BSF
Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the 0-748 19 mm AF
shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. 0-750 3 in. AF
There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the 0-812 Bin.AF
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a 0-820 % in. Whitworth;3 in. BSF
purchase. 0-866 22 mm AF
0.875 = in. AF
Care and maintenance of tools 0-920 + in. Whitworth; in. BSF
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the 0-937 in.AF
tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any 0-944 24 mm AF
dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting 1-000 1 in. AF
the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been 1-010 2 in. Whitworth;2 in. BSF
used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items 1-023 26 mm AF
such as screwdrivers and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal span- 1-062 1% in. AF;27 mm AF
ners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, 1-100 3 in. Whitworth;# in. BSF
meters, etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged 1-125 14 in. AF
or become rusty. 1-181 30 mm AF
Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably 1-200 % in. Whitworth;$ in. BSF
become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades 1-250 14 in. AF
from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file 1-259 32 mm AF
will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish. 1-300 3 in. Whitworth;Z in. BSF
eZ 13 in. AF
Working facilities 1-390 #3 in. Whitworth; in. BSF
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If 1.417 36 mm AF
anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some 1-437 12 in. AF
form of suitable working area becomes essential. 1-480 4 in. Whitworth;1 in. BSF
It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by 1-500 14 in. AF
circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit 1-574 40 mm AF; in. Whitworth
of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always 1-614 41 mm AF
be done under the cover of a roof. 1-625 18 in. AF
Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat 1-670 1 in. Whitworth;14 in. BSF
workbench or table at a suitable working height. 1-687 12 in. AF
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 1:811 46 mm AF
mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean 1-812 12 in. AF
dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, 1-860 13 in. Whitworth;14
in. BSF
cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary. 1-875 1Z in. AF
Another item which may be required, and which has a much more 1-968 50 mm AF
general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 3 in 2-000 2 in. AF
(8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually 2-050 14 in. Whitworth;12
in. BSF
essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing 2-165 55 mm AF
lights. 2-362 60 mm AF
Chapter 1 Engine
Contents

Ancillary engine components—removal ................0 7 Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems — description
Big-end and main bearings — examination and renovation ..... 28 Major operations necessitating removal of engine
am Shaiteremova \ie.wews tga Aree oar a eran. Goce ra kt a 14 Major operations possible with engine in place
Camshaft and camshaft bearings — examination and renovation . 31 Oil filter — removal and refitting
Camshaft and front endplate — refitting ................... 49 Oil pressure relief valve — removal and refitting
Connecting rods to crankshaft— reassembly ............... 48 Oil pump — examination and renovation
Crankshaft — examination andrenovation ................. 2, Oil pump — refitting
Crankshatt i enctinG swim teen oe cute sesusia oe ents nets 44 Oil pump — removal and dismantling
Crankshaft and main bearings—removal ................. 20 Pistons — refitting
Crankshaft rear seal, housing, endplate and flywheel — refitting .. 55 Piston rings — refitting
Cylinder bores — examination and renovation .............. 29 Piston rings — removal
Cylinder head'— decarbonisation; ... os... ...e.25 cenveuen 40 Pistons and connecting rods — reassembly
CVlinGenNeatieenttinGaeany- tr. cuncce fc Gaels sake eon EPR cre ore 53 Pistons and piston rings — examination and renovation
Cylinder head removal—engineincar ................05. 9 Rocker arms/valves — adjustment
Cylinder head removal—engine onbench ................. 8 Rocker assembly — dismantling
Distributor and distributor drive — refitting ................ 58 Rockers and rocker shaft — examination and renovation
Distabutondnive removal: ai, aks dcn as Fee ee een ee ee 15 Rocker shaft and tappets — reassembly
EROING ain allaSSOODlY musmaart crea cack mae e lclive iment eee eee Bg Sump — examination and renovation
Engine — initial start-up after overhaul or majorrepair ........ 61 Sump — refitting
Engine —imetnoG Onremoval o. 5 wih.) oe a eee os eee es 4 Sump, pistons, connecting rods, and big-end bearings — removal
EMIS CO MttinG miei eecs ta eeeS Seek Mae GOR Wwhaa eee Rae 60 Tappets — examination and renovation
Engine —removal'withigearbox . 2... 2.6.46 6h2 eb os Fee oes 5 Timing chain tensioner — examination and renovation
ENQGING ChSMAntING = GEMCTAle sailors oe Nees ore thee Ae os we 6 Timing chain tensioner — removal and refitting
Enginereassembly —general co 4 Swiss beers
Geta Hoe es 43 Timing cover, gears and chain — removal
Examination and renovation—general ................0.4. 26 Timing gears and chain — examination and renovation
Fad icMaGgnOSiS PRGING = cect ieinn =)eek die Matinee Gene 62 Timing gears, chain tensioner and cover — refitting
Flywheel — examination andrenovation ...............0.. 38 Valves — removal
Flywheel and engine endplate—removal ................. 19
Flywheel starter ring — examination and renovation .......... SI Valves and valve springs — reassembly
Generalideseniptiony pass) esarcioraciesar pected uesscabs pntaaciaani enon? 1 Valve guides — examination and renovation
Gudgeon DIN TemjIOVallone tee oh otnis 4.Sh sep shia oa ia Valve guides — removal
ee

Specifications
a

Engine (general)
Number of cylinders
Bore 2.9 in (73.7 mm)
Stroke 3.44 in (87.5 mm)
Cubic capacity 91 cu in (1493 cc)
Compression ratio 9:1(1500TC) 8.5: 1 (Dolomite 1500)
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Oversize bores +0.020 in (+0.51 mm)
Valve operation Overhead, pushrod

Crankshaft
Main journal dia. 2.3115 to 2.3120 in (58.713 to 58.725 mm)
Minimum regrind dia. 2.2815 to 2.2820 in (57.935 to 57.948 mm)
CrankpinjOurnaliGidawa ace eksime eae LUa ekeles sae reenneny ahr MMs 1.8750 to 1.8755 in (47.625 to 47.638 mm)
Minimum regrind dia. 1.8450 to 1.8455 in (46.865 to 46.878 mm)
Crankshaft end thrust Via rear main bearing thrust washer
Crankshaft endfloat 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.10 to 0.20 mm)

Main bearings
Number 3
Thin wall
Length (front, centre and rear) 0.840 to 0.855 in (21.34 to 21.72 mm)
End thrust Via rear main bearing thrust washer
Diametrical clearance 0.0005 to 0.002 in (0.013 to 0.050 mm)
Undersizes 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 in (0.25, 0.50, 0.76 mm)
16 Chapter 1 Engine

Connecting rods
Length between centres 5.748 to 5.752 in (145.90 to 146.10 mm)
Small end bush diameter (reamed in position) 0.8126 to 0.8129 in (20.64 to 20.65 mm)

Big-end bearings
Length 0.672 to 0.692 in (17.20 to 19.58 mm)
Diametrical clearance . 0.001 to 0.003 in (0.03 to 0.08 mm)
Undersizes 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 in (0.25, 0.51, 0.76 mm)

Gudgeon pin
Type Fully floating
Connectingrodfit ... Hand push-fit
Outside diameter 0.8123 to 0.8125 in (20.63 to 20.64 mm)

Pistons
Type Solid skirt, aluminium alloy
Bore size:
‘F’ grade 2.8995 to 2.9000 in (73.647 to 72.660 mm)
‘G’ grade 2.9001 to 2.9006 in (73.663 to 73.673 mm)
Clearance in skirt in bore:
0.0041 to 0.0051 in (0.104 to 0.129 mm)
0.002 to 0.003 in (0.05 to 0.076 mm)
Number of rings 2 compression and 1 oil
Width of ring grooves:
Top/second 0.064 to 0.065 in (1.625 to 1.650 mm)
Oil control 0.157 to 0.158 in (3.99 to 4.02 mm)
0.8123 to 0.8125 in (20.63 to 20.64 mm)

Piston rings
Compression:
Top Plain type, chrome plated
Second Tapered periphery
Width (top/second) .. 0.121 to 0.128 in (3.073 to 3.251 mm)
Fitted gap (top/second) 0.012 to 0.022 in (0.305 to 0.559 mm)

Camshaft
Journal diameter 1.9649 to 1.9654 in (49.91 to 49.92 mm)
Bore in block 1.9680 to 1.9695 in (49.980 to 50.025 mm)
Diametrical clearances:
Front and rear 0.0016 to 0.0036 in (0.04 to 0.09 mm)
Centre 0.0026 to 0.0046 in (0.07 to 0.12 mm)
End thrust At front and location plate
Endfloat 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.110 to 0.216 mm)
Drive Chain and gear from crankshaft

Rocker gear
Rocker shaft outside diameter 0.5607 to 0.5612 in (14.24 to 14.25 mm)
Rocker arm bore diameter 0.563 to 0.564 in (14.30 to 14.33 mm)

Tappets (cam followers)

Outside diameter 0.7996 to 0.8000 in (20.30 to 20.32 mm)
Length 1.75 in (44.45 mm)

Valves
Rocker arm to valve clearance (inlet and exhaust) 0.010 in (0.25 mm) — cold
Seat angle (inlet and exhaust) 45.5°
Valve face angle (inlet and exhaust) 45°
Head diameter:
Inlet 1.429 to 1.433 in (36.31 to 36.40 mm)
Exhaust 1.168 to 1.172 in (29.66 to 29.76 mm)
Stem diameter:
Inlet 0.3107 to 0.3113 in (7.89 to 7.91 mm)
Exhaust 0.3100 to 0.3105 in (7.874 to 7.887 mm)
Stem guide clearance:
Inlet 0.0008 to 0.0023 in (0.02 to 0.06 mm)
0.0015 to 0.0030 in (0.04 to 0.07 mm)

Valve guides
Length (inlet and exhaust) 2.0625 in (52.387 mm)
Fitted height 0.75 in (19.050 mm)
Diameter (inlet and exhaust):
Outside 0.501 to 0.502 in (12.72 to 12.75 mm)
Inside 0.312 to 0.313 in (7.92 to 7.95 mm)
 Chapter 1 Engine 17
Ree
SSS SSS SSS sss" Ss SSS

Valve springs
Free-length:
Outer 1.52 in (38.60 mm)
Inner 1.14 in (30.0 mm)

Valve timing
RIL U.N ieee ee er eee ON ee kn a Ie Notch on crankshaft pulley — pointers on timing chest
Rocker arm/valve clearance — numbers 7 and 8 valves
(for valve timing only) 0.050 in (1.27 mm)
Inlet valve opens 132 BUDGE
fOletvalVerclaSeS many gata wake mee meee ie Mah) ome 58° ABDC
ExXhaustvalVerOPensine. nc air ce ee at eae aon” 58° BBDC
ExhatistValVeicloSeses. 5 nae entne eae ee es ons ee 18° ATDC

Lubrication system
US oy. Bars RA oe ae te ee ee eS, oh en rr Wet sump pressure feed
System pressure:
RUUD Ws Be ape: use “ak, Ce Oat fe one eee 40 to 60 Ibf in? (2.81 to 4.2 kgf cm’)
Oil pump type Habourn Eaton eccentric lobe
Clearance between inner and outer rotor 0.010 in (0.25 mm) maximum
Clearance between outer rotorandbody ..................0. 0.008 in (0.20 mm) maximum
BOcOenicdilOcatumnm mar rae ype Re ee ee CEU, fs ceo ccx cd dae eee et 0.004 in (0.10 mm) maximum
Oil filter Full flow replaceable element
3 to 5 Ibf in? (0.21 to 0.35 kgf cm?) oil pressure

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft kgf m

AVacleaneattach teal taeda ticeeiiep os 2. oa, Sows Aa iene hb 8 ai)
Alternator mounting bracketto block: $0. 5.02 see. myer eee oo oe 20 2.8
Alternator to adjusting link 20 2.8
Alternator to mounting bracket and front engine plate 20 228
Beating capSitGiplockas Neches aeons, Sens kei ss aoev nnd ae oe ble 65 9.0
Clutch to flywheel 11 15
Connecting rod bolts 45 6.2
SEANKS Maran Ukumeme nae tess eM NS i eA Gay eh Eee ater amie owas eset 150 20.7
CUUNGEMDIOCKGRANT OIG nse nce topes nus.t Jo RRA ime aude a brine Ss 38 5
CYUNACHDIOCK OW GAC Vers aa sca bas. 41ers eee riet kes eee ce 14 1.9
Cyincerblocwoilgallery-Seals) 4 tions «ued © so cue oe wee yn 20 2.8
Cylinder head to block 46 6.4
Exhaust manifold to cylinder head 14 (ES
Flywheel to crankshaft 40 S15)
Gearbox andirearengine plate to blocking... <2 le ee ee ne 2 14 8)
Mam Deannig Capos circ iris cs ante Gal RASS lon em wig a a 65 9.0
Intake manifold to cylinder head Z5 315
OMUCeTFAattaGhIeMinne emo eeetn oscko Noa te ae Se ea eae 3 20 2.8
On Sealhousingitorcylinden DiIOCK™ set-rar «sf Gees Fhe ers oR ayes 20 2.8
Oil sump drain plug 25 3.5
ReaerankShatisGdlian..7 5 alecAitrec oswed ste cake & Goadie ee > 20 2.8
Rocker cover attachment 2 0.3
Rocker oil feed to block 20 2.8
Rocker pedestalitoicylinder head, Wan 2.5. 5 aid we Wee aes Be 34 4.7
Sealing blocktOscVINnGdemDlOCK Mapas lene c eran ee ome wee ee 14 we
Sealingibiockito~engineblate: 4. cies ose s class time hs «abe 20 2.8
SOA DIUGS eae One ees Mev) aint Sn Se Cue te eames 20 Ps)
StanterinmotorattachtMwent ac. «suc eteksis cic ote brace whe fheres sey meets cslaets 34 4.7
Water pump to cylinder head 20 2.8

enclosed in a pressed steel cover. The timing chain is tensioned

1 General description automatically by a spring blade, attached to the inside of the cover,
which presses against the non-driving side of the chain.
The engine is a four cylinder, overhead valve type and is supported
The camshaft is supported on four bearings, bored directly into the
on a single rubber mounting at each side. There are two valves per
cylinder block and the bearings are non-renewable. Camshaft endfloat
cylinder, which are mounted vertically in the cast iron cylinder head,
is controlled by a forked locating plate, positioned on the front end-
the guides for the valves being pressed into the head. The valves are
plate.
operated by overhead rocker arms, controlled by pushrods and
tappets, in conjunction with a camshaft which is at the bottom left- The centrifugal water pump, radiator cooling fan and the alternator
hand side of the engine. are driven by a V-belt from a pulley, keyed to the crankshaft.
The cylinder block and the upper half of the crankcase are a one The distributor is mounted in the middle of the left-hand side of
piece iron casting. The bottom part of the crankcase is a steel pressing the cylinder block and is driven from a short shaft and a skew gear,
which is also the oil sump. which engages with a gear on the camshaft. The distributor has
The pistons are aluminium alloy with solid skirts and have two automatic control of ignition timing, to suit varying engine load and
compression rings and one oil control ring. speed.
The crankshaft is supported on three bearings of the thin wall, A pressure-fed, oil-circulating system, with continuous filtration, is
renewable type, the end thrust being taken by thrust washers on the provided by an oil pump in the crankcase. The pump shares a common
rear bearing. drive with the distributor. The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft by
At the front of the engine, a single chain drives the camshaft from four bolts and the rim is fitted with a ring gear, with which the pinion of
the crankshaft, the chain and associated sprocket wheels being the starter motor engages.
 Fig. 1.1 Exploded view of engine — typical

Cover — rocker gear Sump drain plug Valve spring cup Rocker shaft bracket
Cover — joint gasket Self locking nut Valve cotter Rocker cover nut and washer
Cylinder head Washer Rocker Rocker cover securing stud
Cylinder head gasket Fibre washer Rocker shaft bracket ‘
Valve guide
Cylinder block Oil filler cap Spacer Rocker shaft bracket and stud
Cylinder liner Lifting bracket Tappet adjusting screw and /ocknut Core plugs
Crankshaft Exhaust valve Split pin Induction manifold stud
Starting ring and flywheel Inlet valve Rocker shaft Exhaust manifold stud
Sump gasket Valve spring Nut and washer — rocker shaft bracket Piston rings
Sump
~DOANDAAWNH™ Shroud for valve guide 30 Rocker spacing spring Piston
 Chapter 1 Engine 19

Plug 73 Core plugs 107 Dowel

41 Spring washer 74 Stud 108 Distributor drive adaptor
42 Gudgeon pin 75 Dowel 109 Oil pressure sensing unit
43 Circlip 76 Camshaft 110 Flywheel bolt
44 Smallend bush 77 ~ Gasket 1771 Oil filter andjoint washer
45 Connecting rod 78 Front engine plate 112 Sleeve
46 Sleeve 79 Timing chain 113 Plug
47 Big-end cap and bolt 80 Camshaft sprocket 114 Oil pressure relief valve
48 Big-end bearing shells 81 Chain tensioner 115 Relief valve nut
49 Pushrod 82 Sprocket bolt 7116 Crossmember
50 Tappet 83 Chaincase gasket 117 Gasket
51 Water pump elbow 84 Chaincase 718 Seal
52 Elbow securing stud, nut and lockwasher 85 Chaincase securing nut and lockwasher 719 Oil pump
53 Dipstick 86 Chaincase securing bolt and lockwasher (long) 120 Sleeve (flywheel to crankshaft)
54 Thermostat . 87 Chaincase securing bolt and lockwasher (short) 121 Fuel pump
55 Top gasket — water pump 88 Camshaft locating plate 122 Fuel main bearing thrust washer
56 Adaptor for temperature sensor 89 Core plug and lockwasher
57 Temperature sensor unit 90 Drain tap (water) 123 Rear main bearing thrust washer
58 Hose adaptor 91 Head securing studs (grooved) 124 Main bearing shells
59 Water pump securing bolt 92 Head securing stud (standard) 125 Main bearing cap
(medium) and washer 93 Dowel 126 Bearing cap bolt and lockwasher
60 Water pump securing bolt (long) and washer 94 Stud 127 Crankshaft key
61 Spindle and vane 95 Core plugs 128 Thrust washers
62 Spindle housing gasket 96 Gearbox bearer plate 129 Crankshaft sprocket
63 Spindle housing plug (securing) 97 Rear oil seal housing 130 Oil thrower
64 Seal 98 Seal housing bolt and lockwasher 131 Crankshaft pulley
65 Spindle and bearing housing 99 Rear oil seal 132 Pulley retaining bolt
66 Spindle housing nut and 100 Oil seal housing gasket 133 Sump securing bolt
lockwasher 101 Bolt and lockwasher (bearer plate) 134 Securing bolt and lockwasher
67 Fan pulley and hub 102 Oil gallery piug
68 Dipstick guide 103 Drain plug and washer
69 Water pump housing gasket 104 Securing plug for fue! pump
70 Water pump securing bolt (short) and washer 105 Core plug
71 Fan 106 Securing plug for distributor
72 Fansecuring bolt and lockwasher housing

; F ; ; ras 4 Place a suitable receptacle, with a capacity of at least 7 pints,

2 Major operations possible with engine in place beneath the engine sump. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to
drain for several minutes. Refit the plug when draining is complete.
Removal and refitting of the cylinder head. 5 Remove the top and bottom hoses from the engine and the
Removal and refitting of the sump. smaller bore hose from the expansion tank. When pulling these hoses
Removal and refitting of the big-end bearings. off their pipes, do not lever them about too much since it is quite easy
Removal and refitting of the pistons and connecting rods. to fracture the joint where the stub pipes are connected to the radiator.
—
OWN Removal and refitting of the timing chain, sprockets and timing Open the clips fully and ease the hoses off gradually.
cover oil seal. 6 Remove the radiator by releasing the four bolts either side; this
Removal and refitting of the camshaft. will leave the mounting brackets, with horns attached, in the car. Alter-
ne) Removal and refitting of the oil pump. natively, remove the radiator with horns attached.
7 Loosen the clips securing the two heater hoses to the engine rear;
these are small bore hoses and can easily be pulled off the stub pipes
3 Major operations necessitating removal of engine (photo).
8 Disconnect the throttle cable linkage from the carburettors. With-
1 Removal and refitting of the crankshaft. draw the split pin from the clevis pin on the linkage, and then slacken
2 Removal and refitting of the main bearings. the adjuster nuts securing the outer cable to the bracket. Lift the com-
3 Removal and refitting of the flywheel. plete cable away from the linkage and tie back.
9 Disconnect the choke cable by releasing the screw securing the
cable inner to the choke cam, first loosening the locknut; then pulling
4 Engine — method of removal on the choke control knob until the inner cable is withdrawn suf-
ficiently to separate the cable outer at the rocker box connector. The
The engine may only be removed with the gearbox attached. inner cable will be left hanging and should be tied out of the way.
10 Remove the nuts and washers securing the exhaust front pipe to
the manifold. Retain the gasket released by this operation.
5 Engine and gearbox — removal 11 Release the HT and LT leads from the distributor. Identify each
lead.
The following sequence of operations is in the order that we 12 Disconnect the starter cable by removing the nut and washer that
recommend, but strict adherence to the sequence is not critical; where secures it to the terminal post.
an operation must be performed prior to another operation, we will 13 Withdraw the multi-socket connector from the alternator.
state this. 14 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wire, the water temperature
+ Remove the bonnet by unscrewing the two setscrews from each transmitter wire, and the battery earth lead from the alternator mount-
of the front hinges, and withdrawing the split pin from the clevis pin ing bracket. Identify each wire with some form of tag and carefully tie
securing the bonnet stays. back out of the way of the engine.
2 Disconnect and remove the battery. Do not tilt it when lifting out 15 Remove the fuel feed pipe to the fuel pump inlet and plug the end
of the car or some electrolyte may be spilled on the paintwork or your of the pipe to prevent the ingress of dirt or fuel syphoning out.
clothes. 16 Working underneath the car, disconnect the propeller shaft from
3. Drain the cooling system (Chapter 2). the gearbox drive flange by removing the four bolts and locknuts. Mark
20 Chapter 1 Engine

5.16 Disconnecting the propeller shaft 5.20 Disconnecting the speedometer driv2

Saasguernr 4 oy
eer ¢ 3
on
eee Saye

: re
5.25a Engine mounting attachments 5.25b Removing the engine 5.26 Gearbox separated from engine

a line across the flange-to-shaft joint before breaking the joint (photo). from the splines. The weight of the gearbox should never be allowed to
17 Working underneath the car, disconnect the gear lever from the hang on the clutch splines (photo).
gearbox extension by unscrewing the nut connecting the lever to the
extension rod and withdrawing the bolt and washer.
18 Remove the nut and washer securing the gearbox rear mounting 6 Engine dismantling — general
to the sub-frame; it is advisable to support the gearbox extension with
a jack or blocks before disconnecting the mounting. This will leave the 1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand, but if one is
mounting attached to the gearbox when it is removed from the car. Rot available, stand the engine on a strong bench to be at a comfort-
19 Remove the nut and bolt securing the exhaust pipe clip to the able working height.
gearbox support arm. 2 During the dismantling process the greatest care should be taken
20 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the gearbox exten- to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this,
sion by undoing the locking plate and pulling the cable out (photo). thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, removing all traces
21 Remove the clamp bolt securing the clutch slave cylinder to its of oil and congealed dirt.
housing; ease the cylinder away from the gearbox and lift it into the 3 Use paraffin or a grease solvent. The latter compound will make
engine compartment. Tie the cylinder out of the way of the engine. the job much easier for, after the solvent has been applied and allowed
22 Working inside the car, remove the gear lever knob and locknut, to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off the solvent
gearbox carpet, and*the four screws securing the clamp ring to the with all the grease and filth. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded,
grommet. Lift the grommet and clamp ring away from the gear lever. work the solvent into it with a wire brush.
23 Release the gear lever cap by twisting anti-clockwise and thus 4 Finally, wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only
releasing it from the two projections on the extension boss. Withdraw then, when it is quite clean, should the dismantling process begin. As
the steel and nylon cups over the gear lever and then remove the the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of paraffin or petrol.
circlip and spring. Pull the gear lever out of the extension; the nylon 5 Never immerse parts with oilways in paraffin, eg. the crankshaft,
half-sphere will remain on the bottom of the lever. but to clean, wipe down carefully with a petrol dampened rag. Oilways
24 Attach the lifting equipment to the engine lifting eyes and take the can be cleaned out with pipe cleaners. If an air line is available, all
weight of the engine on the sling. parts can be blown dry and the oilways blown through as an added
25 Remove the two nuts and bolts securing each front mounting to precaution.
the sub-frame (photo). Lift the engine slightly to raise the sump above 6 Re-use of old engine gaskets is false economy and can give rise to
the sub-frame and make a final check to ensure that all connections oil and water leaks. Always use new gaskets throughout.
are free of the engine. Raise the hoist slowly and manoeuvre the 7 Do not throw the old gaskets away, for it sometimes happens that
engine and gearbox clear of the vehicle. It is sound practice to place an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then
some form of padding over the perimeter of the engine compartment very useful as a template. Hang up the old gaskets as they are
in case the paintwork or chrome is damaged when removing the removed, on a suitable hook or nail.
assembly (photo). 8 To strip the engine it is best to work from the top down. The sump
26 With the combined engine/gearbox safely on the workshop floor it provides a firm base on which the engine can be supported in an
is necessary to remove the gearbox before work can commence on the upright position. When the stage where the sump must be removed is
engine. Remove the bolts and washers securing the bellhousing to the reached, the engine can be turned on its side and all other work carried
engine rear plate. Pull the gearbox and bellhousing away from the out with it in this position.
engine, endeavouring to keep the input shaft central as it is withdrawn 9 Wherever possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers finger-tight from
 Chapter 1 Engine 21

where they were removed. This helps avoid later loss and muddle. If
they cannot be refitted then lay them out in such a fashion that it is
clear from where they came.

a a ee ee
7 Ancillary engine components -- removal
en ee
1 Before basic engine dismantling can begin, the engine should be
stripped of all its ancillary components. These items should also be
removed if a factory exchange reconditioned unit is being purchased.
The items comprise:

Alternator and alternator brackets

Water pump and thermostat housing
Starter motor
Distributor and spark plugs -
Inlet and exhaust manifold and carburettor
Fuel pump and fuel pipes
Oil filter and dipstick
Oil filler cap
Clutch assembly

2 All these items can be removed with the engine in the car, if it is
merely an individual item which requires attention. It is easy to renew
the clutch with engine and gearbox still in the car.
3 Starting work on the left-hand side of the engine, slacken off the
alternator retaining bolts and remove the unit and then the support
brackets.
4 Take off the distributor and housing, after undoing the two nuts
and washers which hold the bottom flange of the distributor housing
to the cylinder block. Retain and note the shims between the housing
and the block. Do not loosen the square nut on the clamp at the base
of the distributor body, or the timing will be lost. Undo the spark plugs.
5 Note that the fuel pump is held in place by two studs.
6 Undo the nuts and lift off the fuel pump.
7 Undo and remove the low oil pressure warning switch located
beneath the distributor mounting.
8 Undo and remove the oil filter. The complete body screws off anti-
clockwise.
9 Moving to the front of the engine, undo the two thermostat
housing cover securing bolts. Lift away the cover and the thermostat.
10 Undo the nuts and washers which hold the inlet and exhaust
manifolds to the cylinder head. The inner nuts are very difficult to get
at and are best loosened with a thin ring spanner.
11 Lift off the inlet and exhaust manifolds together with the car-
burettor. If stiff, tap the manifolds gently with a piece of wood.
12 Undo the bolts which hold the water pump in place on the front
face of the block (photo).
13 Undo a quarter of a turn at a time, the six bolts which hold the 7.15 Starter motor and distance piece
clutch pressure plate assembly to the flywheel.
14 Lift off the pressure plate together with the loose friction plate.
15 Undo the two bolts holding the starter motor in place and lift off
the motor. Note and retain the distance piece and any shims that are
fitted (photo).

8 Cylinder head removal — engine on bench

1 With the engine out of the car and standing on the bench or floor,
remove the cylinder head as follows:
2 Unscrew the two rocker cover nuts and lift away the nuts, plain
washers, rocker cover and cork gasket.
3. Unscrew the four rocker pedestal nuts, and lift away the nuts and
washers. Carefully lift the rocker assembly from the top of the cylinder Fig. 1.2 The loosening and tightening sequence for cylinder head
head. nuts (Secs. 8 and 53)
4 Undo the ten cylinder head nuts half a turn at a time. When all the
nuts are no longer under tension they may be screwed off the cylinder circumstances try to prise it apart from the cylinder block with a
head retaining studs, one at a time. Lift away the lifting bracket from screwdriver or cold chisel, as damage may be done to the faces of the
the two rear right-hand studs. The cylinder head nuts should be head or block. If the head will not free readily, turn the engine over by
removed in the reverse order to that given in Fig. 1.2. the flywheel or starter ring gear carrier, as the compression in the
5 Remove the pushrods keeping them in the relative order in which cylinders will often break the cylinder head joint. If this fails to work,
they were removed. The easiest way to do this is to push them through strike the head sharply with a plastic headed hammer or wooden
a sheet of thin card in the correct sequence. Make sure the tappets hammer, or with a metal hammer with an interposed piece of wood to
remain in their bores. cushion the blows. Under no circumstances hit the head directly with a
6 The cylinder head can now be removed by lifting upwards. If the metal hammer, as this may cause the iron casting to fracture. Several
head is jammed, try to rock it to break the seal. Under no sharp taps with the hammer, at the same time pulling upwards, should
22 Chapter 1 Engine
ee

free the head. Lift the head off and place on one side. Recover the with a suitable hard steel punch, drive the guides out of the cylinder
cylinder head gasket. head.

9 Cylinder head removal — engine in car 12 Rocker assembly — dismantling

To remove the cylinder head with the engine still in the car, the 1 To dismantle the rocker assembly, release the rocker shaft locating
following additional procedure should be carried out before that listed screw, remove the split pin from the front of the shaft, and slide the
in Section 8. shaft from the pedestals, rocker arms and rocker spacing springs. The
1. Disconnect the battery earth terminal for safety reasons. rear pedestal is secured to the shaft by a Phillips screw.
2 -Drain the water by undoing the taps at the base of the radiator and 2 From the end of the shaft, undo the plug which gives access to the
the rear of the cylinder block. inside of the rocker, which can now be cieaned of sludge etc. Ensure
3 Loosen the clip at the thermostat housing end on the top water the rocker arm lubricating holes are clear.
hose, and pull the hose from the thermostat housing pipe.
4 Slacken the alternator securing bolts and move the alternator en St
inwards towards the cylinder head. Remove the fan belt. 13 Timing cover, gears and chain — removal
5 Undo and remove the alternator mounting bolts and nuts and lift
away the alternator. Unscrew the two bolts and spring washers secur- The timing cover, gears and chain can be removed with the engine
ing the alternator mounting bracket to the side of the cylinder head. in the car, provided that the radiator, fan blades and fan belt ere
Lift away the bolts, spring washers and the alternator mounting removed. The procedure is identical whether the engine is in the car, or
bracket. out of it and is as follows:
6 Disconnect the fuel line at the carburettor installation end. Also 1. Fit a ring spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut and tap the spanner
detach the vacuum advance/retard pipe at the distributor vacuum unit. with a heavy hammer to release the nut. Unless the nut has rusted
7 Mark the HT leads to the spark plugs for correct identification and badly, it should not be necessary to put the car into gear and apply the
detach the leads from the spark plugs. Release the HT lead from the brakes to lock the crankshaft and it is better to avoid this if possible.
centre of the ignition coil. Remove the crankshaft nut.
8 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the 2 Pull off the crankshaft pulley, if necessary prising it with two levers
distributor clamping plate to the cylinder block and lift away the placed behind the pulley.
distributor. 3 Unscrew the bolts and screws securing the timing cover. There are
9 Disconnect the choke and throttle controls at the carburettor five screws, six bolts and one nut and when refitting them, it should be
installation. noted that screws are used in the positions where the timing cover is
10. Undo and remove all securing nuts and washers holding the inlet only attached to the engine front plate.
and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head. Detach the exhaust
4 Pull off the timing cover and its gasket. Check the chain for wear
manifold connection from the exhaust system down pipe and lift away
by measuring how much it can be depressed and if this is more than +
the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Recovery the gaskets.
in (12.7 mm) a new chain should be fitted (Fig. 1.3).
12 Disconnect the rubber hose connection at the thermostat housing
5 Remove the oil thrower, noting that its dished side is towards the
by slackening the clip and drawing off the hose.
timing chain cover.
13 Undo the heater pipe connection union nut at the rear of the water
6 Using a drift or screwdriver, tap back the tabs of the lockwasher
pump body. Detach the temperature gauge sender unit cable terminal
on the two camshaft gear retaining bolts and remove the bolts (photo).
from the unit on the thermostat housing.
7 Remove the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets with the chain by
14 Slacken the bottom radiator hose clip at the water pump and
pulling the camshaft sprocket off its dowels and at the same time
detach the hose from the water pump.
prising off the crankshaft sprocket.
15 Undo and remove the three bolts securing the water pump to the
8 Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft, then the shims
front of the cylinder head and lift away the water pump. Recover the
from behind the crankshaft sprocket and store them safely.
paper gasket.
16 The procedure is now the same as for removing the cylinder head
when the engine is on the bench or floor.

10 Valves — removal RULE OR STRAIGHT

EDGE
It is essential that the valves are kept in their correct sequence
unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed. If they are
going to be kept and used again, place them in a sheet of card having
eight holes numbered 1 to 8 corresponding with the relative positions
the valves were in when fitted. Also keep the springs and collets in the
correct order.
1 Compress each spring in turn with a valve spring compressor until
the two halves of the collets can be removed. Release the compressor
and remove the cap, spring, shroud and valve.
2 If, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the valve
spring retaining cap refuses to free and expose the split collet, do not
continue to screw down on the compressor as there is a likelihood of
damaging it. CHECK AND NOTE ADJACENT
3 Gently tap the top of the tool directly over the cap with a light TIMING MARKS
hammer. This will free the cap. To avoid the compressor jumping off
the valve spring retaining cap when it is tapped, hold the compressor
firmly in position with one hand. Drop each valve out through the com-
bustion chamber.

st ee Fig. 1.3 Method of checking timing chain wear (Sec. 13)

11 Valve guide — removal
A = 0:5 in(12.7 mm) orless
If it is wished to remove the valve guides they can be removed B = Timing marks
from the cylinder head in the following manner.
Place the cylinder head with the gasket face on the bench and
 Chapter 1 Engine 23
adjacent sides of the big-end caps and connecting rods, indicating
14 Camshaft — removal which cap fits on which rod and which way round the cap fits. If no
numbers or lines can be found, then with a sharp screwdriver or file
The camshaft can be removed with the engine in place in the car, scratch mating marks across the joint from the rod to the cap. One line
or with the engine on the bench. If the camshaft is to be removed with for connecting rod No 1, two for connecting rod No 2, and so on. This
the engine in the car, the radiator, fan blades and belt, andthe radiator will ensure there is no confusion later as it is most important that the
left-hand grille should be removed after the cooling system has been caps go back in the correct position on the connecting rods from which
drained. The inlet and exhaust manifolds, rocker-gear, pushrods and they were removed.
tappets, and fuel pump must also be removed. The timing cover, gears 6 If the big-end caps are difficult to remove, they may be gently
and chain, must be removed as described in Section 13. It is also tapped with a soft hammer.
necessary to remove the distributor drive gear as described in Section 7 To remove the shell bearings, press the bearing opposite the
15. With the drive gear out of the way, proceed as follows: groove in both the connecting rods, and the connecting rod caps and
1 First measure the camshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge placed the bearings will slide out easily.
between the keeper plate and the flange. If endfloat exceeds 0.008 in 8 Withdraw the pistons and connecting rods upwards and ensure
(0.216 mm) it will be necessary to fit a new plate. Then remove the they are kept in the correct order for replacement in the same bore.
two bolts and spring washers which hold the camshaft locating plate Refit the connecting rod caps and bearings to the rods, if the bearings
to the block. The bolts are normally covered by the camshaft do not require renewal, to minimise the risk of getting the caps and
gearwheel. rods in the wrong order.
2 Remove the plate (photo). The camshaft can now be withdrawn.
Take great care to remove the camshaft gently. It may be necessary to
remove the engine mountings and jack-up the engine sufficiently to
17 Gudgeon pin — removal
enable the camshaft to be withdrawn through the radiator grille.
1 To remove the gudgeon pin and free the piston from the connect-
ing rod, remove one of the circlips at either end of the pin with a pair of
15 Distributor drive — removal circlip pliers (photo).
2 Press out the pin from the rod and piston with your fingers.
1 To remove the distributor drive with the sump still in position first 3. If the pin shows reluctance to move, then on no account force it
undo the two nuts which hold the distributor housing in place. out, as this could damage the piston. Immerse the piston in a pan of
2 Lift off the distributor, distributor housing and the associated boiling water for three minutes. On removal the expansion of the
gasket, which should be stored for possible re-use. Then, with a pair of aluminium should allow the gudgeon pin to slide out easily.
long nosed pliers, lift out the driveshaft. As the shaft is removed turn it 4 Make sure the pins are kept with the same piston for ease of refitt-
slightly to allow the shaft skew gears to disengage from the camshaft ing and are refitted the same way round.
skew gear.

18 Piston rings — removal

16 Sump, pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings —
removal
1 Toremove the piston rings, slide them carefully over the top of the
piston, taking care not to scratch the aluminium alloy. Never slide
1 The sump, pistons and connecting rods can be removed with the
them off the bottom of the piston skirt. It is very easy to break the iron
engine still in the car or with the engine on the bench. If in the car,
piston rings if they are pulled off roughly, so this operation should be
proceed as for removing the cylinder head with the engine in the car,
done with extreme caution. It is helpful to make use of an old hacksaw
as described in Section 9. If on the bench, proceed as for removing the
blade with the teeth ground off, or better still, an old 0.020 in feeler
cylinder head with the engine in this position, as described in Section
gauge.
8. The pistons and connecting rods are drawn up out of the top of the
2 Lift one end of the piston ring to be removed, out of its groove, and
cylinder bores.
insert the end of the feeler gauge under it.
2 If the engine is in the car it will be necessary to drain the sump oil,
3 Turn the feeler gauge slowly round the piston and, as the ring
remove the engine mountings and raise the engine sufficiently to lower
comes out of its groove, apply slight upward pressure so that it rests
the sump, turn it 90° and withdraw. The sump itself is removed by
on the land above. It can then be eased off the piston with the feeler
releasing the sixteen bolts that secure it to the crankcase. Retrieve the
gauge stopping it from slipping into any empty groove, if it is any but
sump gasket. Note the longer bolts fitted at the rear of the sump.
the top piston ring that is being removed.
3 Remove the oil pump strainer by releasing the locknut and un-
screwing the strainer.
4 Knock back with a cold chisel the locking tabs on the big-end
retaining bolts, and remove the bolts and locking tabs. 19 Flywheel and engine endplate — removal
5 Remove the big-end caps one at a time, taking care to keep them
in the right order and the correct way round. Also ensure that the shell Having removed the clutch (see Chapter 5), the flywheel and
bearings are kept with their correct connecting rods and caps unless engine endplate can be removed. It is only possible for this operation
they are renewed. Normally, the numbers 1 to 4 are stamped on to be carried out with the engine out of the car.

, = hy ’, Ma @ *.

SS

13.6 Timing chain and sprockets 14.2 Camshaft fixing plate 17.1 Removing a gudgeon pin circlip
24 Chapter 1 Engine
eee

1. Bend back the locking tabs from the four bolts which hold the possibility of crankcase fumes entering the interior of the car.
flywheel to the flywheel flange on the rear of the crankshaft.
2 Unscrew the bolts and remove them, complete with the locking
plates if fitted (photo).
3 Lift the flywheel away from the crankshaft flange in order to clear 22 Oil filter — removal and refitting
the locating dowel. Note: Some difficulty may be experienced in
removing the bolts because of the rotation of the crankshaft every time 1 The oil filter on all models is readily accessible and can be replaced
pressure is put on the spanner. To lock the crankshaft in position while very quickly. It is located on the left-hand side of the engine towards
the bolts are removed, use a screwdriver as a wedge between a back- the front. Unscrew the complete filter unit by grasping it firmly and
plate stud and the ring gear. Alternatively a wooden wedge can be turning it anti-clockwise (photo).
inserted between the crankshaft and the side of the block inside the 2 Throw the complete filter unit away, clean the mating faces on a
crankcase.
new filter and the crankcase, and ensure the sealing ring on the new
4 The engine endplate is held in position by a number of bolts and filter is undamaged.
spring washers of varying sizes. Release the bolts noting where W Smear oil round the sealing ring and screw the new filter on
different sizes fit and place them together to ensure none of them handtight.
fe
become lost. Lift away the endplate from the block.
5 The front engine endplate is removed in identical fashion.
23 Oil pressure relief valve — removal and refitting
20 Crankshaft and main bearings — removal
=: To prevent excessive oil pressure, for example when the engine is
cold, an oil pressure relief valve is built into the left-hand side of the
With the engine out of the car, remove the timing gears, sump, oil
engine immediately above the crankcase flange and in line vertically
pump, and the big-end bearings, pistons, flywheel and engine end-
with the distributor.
plates as has already been described in Sections 13, 16 and 19.
2 The relief valve assembly is dismantled by undoing the large
Removal of the crankshaft can only be attempted with the engine on
hexagonal headed bolt which holds the relief valve piston and spring in
the bench or floor. Take off the front sealing block and the packing
place (photo).
pieces.
3 Always renew the spring at a major overhaul. To refit the
1 Undo by one turn, the bolts which hold the three main bearing
assembly, fit the valve piston into its orifice in the block, then the
caps in place.
spring followed by the bolt, ensuring that the sealing washer is in place
2 Unscrew the bolts and remove them, together with the washers.
on the latter.
3. At the rear of the engine, remove the seven bolts which hold the
rear oil seal housing in place and remove the housing and its gasket
(photo).
4 Remove the main bearing caps and the bottom half of each
24 Oil pump — removal and dismantling
bearing shell, taking care to keep the bearing shells in the right caps.
5 When removing the rear bearing cap, NOTE the bottom semi-
1 Undo the three bolts and spring washers which hold the pump to
circular halves of the thrust washers, one half lying on either side of
the underside of the cylinder block.
the main bearing. Lay them with the centre bearing along the correct
Nh Removal of these bolts also releases the end cover so the pump
side.
can be taken from the engine and the outer and inner rotors pulled off,
6 Slightly rotate the crankshaft to free the upper halves of the
together with the pump and strainer (photo).
bearing shells and thrust washers which should now be extracted and
placed over the correct bearing cap.
7 Remove the crankshaft by lifting it away from the crankcase.
25 Timing chain tensioner — removal! and refitting

21 Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems — description 1 With time, the spring bladed timing chain tensioner will become
worn and it should be renewed at the same time as the timing chain.
1 A forced feed system of lubrication is fitted, with oil circulated Wear can besclearly seen as two grooves on the face of the tensioner
round the engine from the sump below the block. The level of engine where it presses against the chain.
oil in the sump is indicated on the dipstick which is fitted on the right- 2 To remove the tensioner, bend it back then pull it out from its
hand side of the engine. It is marked to indicate the optimum level securing pins.
which is the maximum mark. Ww On refitting, fit the open end of the tensioner over the pin and
2 The level of the oil in the sump, ideally, should not be above or press the blade with the aid of a screwdriver until it snaps into place.
below this line. Oil is replenished via the filler cap on the rocker cover.
3 The eccentric rotor-type oil pump is bolted in the left-hand side of
the crankcase and is driven by a short shaft from the skew gear on the
camshaft which also drives the distributor shaft. 26 Examination and renovation — general
4 The pump is the non-draining type to allow rapid pressure build-up
when starting from cold. With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly cleaned, it
5 Oil is drawn from the sump via the pick-up strainer. From the oil is now time to examine everything for wear. The following items
pump, the lubricant passes through a non-adjustable relief valve to the should be checked and, where necessary, renewed or renovated as
full flow filter. Filtered oil enters the main gallery which runs the length described in the following Sections.
of the engine on the left-hand side. Drillings from the main gallery
carry the oil to the crankshaft and camshaft journals.
6 The crankshaft is drilled so that oil under pressure reaches the
crankpins from the crankshaft journals. The cylinder bores, pistons and 27 Crankshaft — examination and renovation
gudgeon pins are all lubricated by splash and oil mist.
7 Oilis fed to the valve gear via the hollow rocker shaft, at a reduced Examine the crankpins and main journal surfaces for signs of
pressure, by means of a scroll and two flats on the camshaft rear scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the crankpins at different
journal (photo). positions with a micrometer. If more than 0.001 in (0.025 mm) out of
8 Drillings and grooves in the camshaft front journal lubricate the round, the crankpins will have to be reground. They will also have to be
camshaft thrust plate, the timing chain and gearwheels. Oil returns to reground if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the
the sump by gravity, the pushrods and cam followers being lubricated journals in the same fashion. If it is necessary to regrind the crankshaft
by oil returning via the pushrod drillings in the block. and fit new bearings, your local Leyland garage or engineering works
9 The crankcase ventilation is of the closed-circuit type, with a pipe will be able to decide how much metal to grind off and the correct
connecting the rocker cover to the air intake filter. This reduces the undersize shells to fit.
 Chapter 1 Engine 25

19.2 Flywheel attachment bolts 0.3 Crankshaft oil seal housing 21.7 Camshaft oil scroll and flat

22.1 Oil filter 23.2 Oil pressure relief valve 24.2 Oil pump and strainer (dismantled)

piston rings.
28 Big-end and main bearings — examination and renovation 2 Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer,
and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is
Big-end bearing failure is often accompanied by a noisy knocking not subject to wear. If the difference between the two measurements
from the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. Main bearing is more than 0.006 in (0.152 mm) then it will be necessary to fit
failure is accompanied by vibration, which can be quite severe as the special pistons and rings to have the cylinders rebored and to fit over-
engine speed rises and falls, and a drop in oil pressure. size pistons. If no micrometer is available, remove the rings from a
Bearings which have not broken up, but are badly worn will give piston and place the piston in each bore in turn about 3 in below the
rise to low oil pressure and some vibration. Inspect the big-ends, main top of the bore. If a 0.010 in feeler gauge can be slid between the
bearings and thrust washers for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting piston and the cylinder wall on the thrust side of the bore, then
and scratches. The bearings should be matt grey in colour. With lead- remedial action must be taken.
indium bearings, should a trace of copper colour be noticed, the bear- 3 Pistons are available in an oversize of 0.020 in (0.52 mm). These
ings are badly worn as the lead bearing material has worn away to are accurately machined to just below these measurements to provide
expose the indium underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in this con- correct running clearances in bores bored out to the exact oversize
dition, or if there is any sign of scoring or pitting. dimensions.
The undersizes available are designed to correspond with the 4 If the bores are slightly worn, but not so badly worn as to justify
regrind sizes, ie. —O.010 in (0.254 mm) bearings are correct for a reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted
crankshaft reground —O.010 in (0.254 mm) undersize. The bearings which will restore compression and stop the engine burning oil.
are in fact, slightly more than the stated undersize, as running Several different types are available, and the manufacturers’ instruc-
clearances have been allowed for during their manufacture. tions concerning their fitting must be followed closely.
Very long engine life can be achieved by changing big-end bear- 5 If the block is to be sent away for reboring, it is essential to remove
ings at intervals of 30000 miles and main bearings at intervals of the cylinder head studs. Lock two nuts together on a stud and then
50000 miles, irrespective of bearing wear. Normally, crankshaft wear wind the stud out by turning the bottom nut anti-clockwise.
is infinitesimal and a change of bearings will ensure mileages of 6 If new pistons are being fitted and the bores have not been
between 100000 to 120000 miles before crankshaft regrinding reground, it is essential to slightly roughen the hard glaze on the sides
becomes necessary. Crankshafts normally have to be reground of the bores with fine glass paper so the new piston rings will have a
because of scoring due to bearing failure. chance to bed in properly.

29 Cylinder bores — examination and renovation 30 Pistons and piston rings — examination and renovation

i The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, scoring and If the old pistons are to be refitted, carefully remove the piston
scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If rings and then thoroughly clean them. Take particular care to clean out
they are at all worn, a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side. the piston ring grooves. At the same time do not scratch the
This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good aluminium in any way. If new rings are to be fitted to the old pistons,
indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine, or remov- then the top ring should be stepped so as to clear the ridge left above
ing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption, accompanied by blue the previous top ring. If a normal but oversize new ring is fitted, it will
smoke from the exhaust, is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and hit the ridge and break, because the new ring will not have worn in the
26
a a a a a i
Chapter Ee
St
7 Engine ee

same way as the old, which will have worn in unison with the ridge. a

Before fitting the rings on the pistons, each should be inserted 33 Timing gears and chain — examination and renovation
approximately 3 in (76 mm) down the cylinder bore and the gap
measured with a feeler gauge. This should be between 0.015 and Examine the teeth on both the crankshaft gearwheel and the
0.038 in (0.381 and 0.965 mm). It is essential that the gap should be camshaft gearwheel for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted V with the
measured at the bottom of the ring travel, as if it is measured at the gearwheel periphery, and if worn, the side of each tooth, ie. one side of
top of a worn bore and gives a perfect fit, it could easily seize at the the inverted V, will be concave when compared with the other. If any
bottom. If the ring gap is too small, rub down the ends of the ring with sign of wear is present the gearwheels must be renewed.
a very fine file until the gap, when fitted, is correct. To keep the rings Examine the links of the chain for side slackness, and renew the
square in the bore for measurement, line up each in turn by inserting chain if any slackness is noticeable when compared with a new chain.
an old piston in the bore upside down and using the piston to push the It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 30000 miles
ring down about 3 in (76 mm). Remove the piston and measure the and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major over-
piston ring gap. haul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly
When fitting new pistons and rings to a rebored engine, the piston grooved.
ring gap can be measured at the top of the bore as the bore will not
taper. It is not necessary to measure the side clearance in the piston
ring grooves with the rings fitted, as the groove dimensions are 34 Timing chain tensioner — examination and renovation
accurately machined during manufacture. When fitting new oil control
rings to old pistons, it may be necessary to have the grooves widened 1 If the timing chain is badly worn it is more than likely that the
by machining to accept the new wider rings. tensioner will be too.
2 Examine the side of the tensioner which bears against the chain
and renew it if it is grooved or ridged. See Section 25 for details.

31 Camshaft and camshaft bearings — examination and renova- 35 Rockers and rocker shaft — examination and renovation
tion
Remove the threaded plug from the end of the rocker shaft with a
In the majority of engines the camshaft runs direct in the cylinder screwdriver and thoroughly clean out the shaft. As it acts as the oil
block, and wear of the journals and bearings is negligible. If pre-formed passage for the valve gear also, ensure the oil holes in it are quite clear
camshaft bearings are fitted, it is possible for these to be renewed, but after having cleaned them out. Check the shaft for straightness by
it is an operation for the local Leyland garage or the local engineering rolling it on the bench. It is most unlikely that it will deviate from
works as it demands the use of specialised equipment. The bearings normal, but if it does, then a judicious attempt must be made to
are removed with a special drift, after which new bearings are pressed straighten it. If this is not successful, purchase a new shaft. The
in, care being taken to ensure the oil holes in the bearings line up with surface of the shaft should be free from any worn ridges caused by the
those in the block. On no account can the bearings be reamed in posi- rocker arms. If any wear is present, renew the snaft. Wear is only likely
tion. to have occurred if the rocker shaft oi! holes have become blocked.
The camshaft itself should show no signs of wear, but, if very Check the rocker arms for wear of the rocker bushes, for wear at
slight scoring on the cams is evident, the score marks can be removed the rocker arm face which bears on the valve stem, and for wear of the
by very gentle rubbing down with a very fine emery cloth. The greatest adjusting ball ended screws. Wear in the rocker arm bush can be
care should be taken to keep cam profiles smooth. checked by gripping the rocker arm tip and holding the rocker arm in
place on the shaft, noting if there is any lateral rocker arm shake. tf
shake is present, and the arms are very loose on the shaft, a new bush
or rocker arm must be fitted.
Check the tip of the rocker arm where it bears on the valve head
32 Valves and valve seats — examination and renovation for cracking or serious wear on the case hardening. !f none is present,
re-use the rocker arm. Check the lower half of the ball on the end of
1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially the rocker arm adjusting screw. On high performance engines, wear on
the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be the ball and top of the pushrod is easily noted by the unworn ‘pip’
examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very which fits in the small central oil hole on the ball. The larger this ‘pip’,
slight, the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves the more wear has taken place to both the ball and the pushrod. Check
together with coarse, and then fine, grinding paste. Where bad pitting the pushrods for straightness by rolling them on the bench. Renew any
has occurred to the valve seats, it will be necessary to recut them and that are bent.
fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut,
then it will be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two
jobs should be entrusted to the local Leyland garage or engineering 36 Tappets — examination and renovation
works. In practice, it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn
that they require renewal. Normally, it is the exhaust valve that is too Examine the bearing surface of the tappets which lie on the
badly worn to be refitted, and the owner can easily purchase a new Set camshaft. Any indentation in this surface, or any cracks, indicate
of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. serious wear and the tappets should be renewed. Thoroughly clean
2 Valve grinding is carried out as follows: them out, removing all traces of sludge. It is most unlikely that the
Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and sides of the tappets will prove worn, but if they are a very loose fit in
apply a suction grinder taci to the valve head. With semi-rotary their bores and can be rocked readily, they should be exchanged for
motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to new units. It is very unusual to find any wear in the tappets, and any
redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is wear present is likely to occur only at very high mileages.
produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the paste
and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and
turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring 37 Flywheel starter ring — examination and renovation
placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a
smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are badly worn, or if some
valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is completed. are missing, then it will be necessary to remove the ring. This is
3 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. achieved by splitting the ring with a cold chisel. The greatest care
Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking care to should be taken not to damage the flywheel during this process. It is
leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and sometimes advantageous to drill a j in hole at the intersection point of
valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then with a clean rag, and two teeth, and to strike this point with the cold chisel.
finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve To fit a new ring, heat it gently and evenly with an oxyacetylene
ports clean. flame until a temperature of 200° C maximum is reached. This is
 Chapter 1 Engine 27

indicated by a light metallic blue surface colour. With the ring at this carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump.
temperature, fit it to the flywheel with the front of the teeth facing the There are two schools of thought as to how much carbon should
flywheel register. The ring should be tapped gently down onto its be removed from the piston crown. One school recommends that a
register and left to cool naturally when the shrinkage of the metal on ring of carbon should be left around the edge of the piston and on the
cooling will ensure that it is a secure and permanent fit. Great care cylinder bore wall as an aid to low oil consumption. Although this is
must be taken not to overheat the ring, as if this happens the temper of probably true for older engines with worn bores, on newer engines the
the ring will be lost. A safer method is to place the ring in an oil bath thought of the second school can be applied, which is that for effective
and heat the oil to 200° C maximum. A maximum gap of 0.025 in decarbonisation, all traces of carbon should be removed.
(0.635 mm) is tolerable between the ring gear and the flywheel face If all traces of carbon are to be removed, press a little grease into
around the circumference. Ring gear eccentricity must not exceed the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to
0.010 in (0.254 mm). be worked on. With a blunt scraper, carefully scrape away the carbon
from the piston crown, taking great care not to scratch the aluminium.
Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder
38 Flywheel — examination and renovation wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away all the grease
which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not
If the flywheel clutch face is déeply scored, a new flywheel should to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up, the
be obtained. !t is possible for the surface to be skimmed using a lathe. piston crown can be polished with a metal polish such as Brasso.
The maximum allowable flywheel face run-out relative to the spigot Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders, and
face is 0.002 in (0.051 mm) at a radius of 3 in (76.2 mm). turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom
are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which
have been decarbonised and proceed as just described.
If a ring of carbon is going to be left round the piston, this can be
39 Oil pump — examination and renovation
helped by inserting an old piston ring into the top of the bore to rest on
the piston and ensure that carbon is not accidentally removed. Check
Thoroughly clean all the component parts in petrol, then check the
that there are no particles of carbon in the cylinder bores. Decarbonis-
rotor endfloat and lobe clearances in the following manner:
ing is now complete.
1 Position the rotors in the pump and place the straight edge of a
steel ruler across the joint face of the pump. Measure the gap between
the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the rotors with a feeler
gauge. If the measurement exceeds 0.004 in (0.102 mm) then check 41 Valve guides — examination and renovation
the lobe clearances as described in the following paragraphs. if the
lobe clearances are correct, then lap the joint face on a sheet of plate Examine the valve guides internally for wear. If the valves are a
glass (photo). very loose fit in the guides and there is the slightest suspicion of lateral
2 Measure with a feeler gauge the gap between the inner and outer rocking using a new valve, then new guides will have to be fitted. If the
rotors. It should not be more than 0.010 in (0.254 mm) (photo). valve guides have been removed compare them internally by visual
3 Then measure the gap between the outer rotor and the side of the inspection with a new guide as well as testing them for rocking with a
pump body which should not exceed 0.008 in (0.203mm). It is essen- new valve. The valve guide height above the cylinder head should be
tial to renew the pump if the measurements are outside these figures. 0.75 in (19.05 mm).
It can be safely assumed that at any major reconditioning the pump
will need renewal (photo).
42 Sump —- examination and renovation

40 Cylinder head — decarbonisation 1 It is essential to thoroughly clean out the sump with petrol and a
stiff brush.
With the cylinder head off, carefully remove with a wire brush and 2 Scrane all traces of the old sump gasket from the flange.
blunt scraper al! traces of carbon deposits from the combustion spaces 3 Examine the sump for cracks, splits or any sign of oil leakage.
and the ports. The valve head stems and valve guides should also be
freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the combustion spaces and
ports down with petrol and scrape the cylinder head surface free of any 43 Engine reassembly — general
foreign matter with the side of a steel rule, or a similar article.
Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are 1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt
still in the block, then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but all the
that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the parts must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways must be clear, locking
cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated,
does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly
at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores, or seal lubricated during assembly. Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be or studs the threads of which are in any way damaged, and whenever
covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent particles of possible, use new spring washers.

Yo

39.1 Measuring rotor end clearance 39.2 Measuring the inner to outer rotor 39.3 Measuring outer rotor to body
clearance clearance
28 Chapter 1 Engine
i

2 Check the core plugs for signs of weeping and always renew the with, but the gudgeon pins should be fitted on the basis of selective
plug at the front of the engine as it is normally covered by the engine assembly.
endplate. 2 Because aluminium alloy, when hot, expands more than steel, the
3 Drive a punch through the centre of the core plug. gudgeon pin may be a very tight fit in the piston when cold. To avoid
4 Using the punch asa lever, lift out the old core plug. damage to the piston, it is best to heat it in boiling water when the pin
5 Thoroughly clean the core plug orifice and, using a small diameter will slide in easily.
headed hammer as an expander, firmly tap a new core plug in place, 3 Lay the correct piston adjacent to each connecting rod and
convex side facing out. remember that the same rod and piston must go back into the same
6 Apart from normal tools, a supply of clean rag, an oil can filled with bore. If new pistons are being used, it is only necessary to ensure that
engine oil (an empty plastic detergent bottle thoroughly cleaned and the right connecting rod is placed in each bore (photo).
washed out, will invariably do just as well), a new supply of assorted 4 Fit a gudgeon pin circlip in position at one end of the gudgeon pin
spring washers, a set of new gaskets and preferably a torque wrench, hole in the piston.
should be collected together. 5 Locate the connecting rod in the piston with the arrow on the
piston crown towards the front of the engine, ie. the timing cover end,
and the connecting rod cap towards the camshaft side of the engine
44 Crankshaft -— refitting (photo).
6 Slide the gudgeon pin in through the hole in the piston and
Ensure that the crankcase is thoroughly clean and that all oilways through the connecting rod little end, until it rests against the pre-
are clear. A thin twist drill or a nylon pipe cleaner is useful for cleaning viously fitted circlip. Note: That the pin should be a push fit.
them out. If possible, blow them out with compressed air. 7 Fit the second circlip in position. Repeat this procedure for all four
Treat the crankshaft in the same manner and then inject engine oil pistons and connecting rods.
into the crankshaft oilways. 8 Where special oil control pistons are being fitted, should the posi-
Commence work on rebuilding the engine by refitting the crank- tion of the top ring be the same as the position of the top ring on the
shaft and main bearings: old piston, ensure that a groove has been machined on the top of the
1 If the old main bearing shells are to be refitted (it is false economy new ring so no fouling occurs between the unworn portion at the top
to do so unless they are virtually new), fit the three upper halves of the of the bore and the piston ring, when the latter is at the top of its
main bearing shells to their location in the crankcase, after wiping the stroke.
locations ciean (photo).
2 Note that at the back of each bearing is a tab which engages in the
locating grooves in either the crankcase or the main bearing cap hous- 46 Piston rings — refitting
ings.
3 If new bearings are being fitted, carefully clean away all traces of 1 Check that the piston ring grooves and oilways are thoroughly
the protective grease with which they are coated. clean and unblocked. Piston rings must always be fitted over the head
4 With the three upper bearing shells securely in place, wipe the of the piston and never from the bottom.
lower bearing cap housings and fit the three lower shell bearings to 2 The easiest method to use when fitting rings, is to wrap a 0.020
their caps, ensuring that the right shell goes into the right cap if the old feeler gauge round the top of the piston and place tne rings one at a
bearings are being refitted (photo). time, starting with the bottom oil control ring, over the feeler gauge.
5 Wipe the recesses either side of the rear main bearing which 3 The feeler gauge, complete with ring, can then be slid down the
locates the thrust washers. Smear some grease onto the thrust piston over the other piston ring grooves until the correct groove is
washers and place the upper halves in position (photo). reached. The piston ring is then slid gently off the feeler gauge into the
6 Note the milled faces of the thrust washers face outwards as groove.
shown in the photo 44.5. 4 An alternative method is to fit the rings by holding them slightly
7 Generously lubricate the crankshaft journals and the upper and open with the thumbs and both index fingers. This method requires a
lower main bearing shells. steady hand and great care as it is easy to open the ring too much and
8 Carefully lower the crankshaft into position (photo). break it.
9 Fit the main bearing caps in position ensuring they locate
correctly. The mating surfaces must be spotlessly clean or the caps will
not seat correctly. As the bearing caps were assembled to the cylinder 47 Pistons — refitting
block and then line-bored during manufacture, it is essential that they
are returned to the same positions from which they were removed The pistons, complete with connecting rods can be fitted to the
(photo). cylinder bore in the following manner:
10 Refit the main bearing cap bolts and washers and tighten the bolts 1 With a wad of clean rag, wipe the cylinder bores clean.
to a torque wrench setting of 65 Ibf ft (9 kgf m) (photo). 2 The pistons, complete with connecting rods, are fitted to their
11 Test the crankshaft for freedom of rotation. Should it be stiff to bores from the top of the cylinder block.
turn or possess high spots, a most careful inspection must be made, 3 Before each piston is inserted make sure that the piston ring gaps
preferably by a qualified mechanic, with a micrometer to get to the are apart from each other to ensure a gas tight joint. Endeavour to
root of the trouble. It is very seldom that any trouble of this nature will avoid a gap on the thrust side of the cylinder bore.
be experienced when fitting the crankshaft. ; 4 Aseach piston is inserted into its bore, ensure that it is the correct
12 Check the crankshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge measuring the piston/connecting rod assembly for that particular bore, that the con-
longitudinal movement between the crankshaft and the rear main necting rod is the correct way round, and also that the front of the
bearing cap. Endfloat should be between 0.004 to 0.008 in (0.102 to piston is towards the front of the bore, ie. towards the front of the
0.203 mm). If endfloat is excessive, oversize thrust washers can be engine. An arrow (thus >) points to the front of the piston. The con-
fitted (photo). necting rod cap should be towards the camshaft side of the engine.
13 The sealing block may next be fitted over the front main bearing 5 Lubricate the piston before inserting into the bore.
cap. Smear the ends of the block with jointing compound and fit the 6 The piston will only slide into the bore as far as the oil control ring.
block in place (photo). Fit the securing screws but do not tighten fully. It is then necessary to compress the piston rings using a clamp
Fit new wedge seals at each end and line up the front face of the block (photo).
with the front of the cylinder block. Tighten the screws fully and cut 7 Gently push the piston into the bore with the wooden handle of a
the wedge seals flush with the crankcase flange (photo). hammer (photo).

eee
45 Pistons and connecting rods — reassembly 48 Connecting rods to crankshaft — reassembly
—————————— eee
1 If the same pistons are being used, then they must be mated to 1 Wipe clean the connecting rod half of the big-end bearing cap and
the same connecting rod with the same gudgeon pin. If new pistons the underside of the shell bearing and fit the shell bearing in position
are being fitted, it does not matter which connecting rod they are used with its locating tongue engaged with the corresponding rod.
 aS

44.1 Fitting a crankcase bearing 44.5 Crankshaft thrust washer

44.10 Tightening the main bearing cap

bolts

44.12 Measuring crankshaft endfloat 44.13b Crankshaft sealing block and

wedge flush with casting

45.3 Crankshaft rod identification, No. 3 45.5 Arrow on piston crown 47.6 Piston ring clamp fitted to piston
cylinder
 SA

48.4 Location of bearing tongue in bearing 48.6 Tightening a connecting rod bolt
cap w

49.2 Inserting the camshaft

49.7 Camshaft locating plate and bolts 50.2 Crankshaft Woodruff key 50.5 Timing marks on centre line between
shafts

50.12 Bent rod holding chain tensioner 50.13 Fitting the timing chain cover
 Chapter 1 Engine 31
2 If the bearings are nearly new and are being refitted, then ensure
they are refitted in their correct locations on the correct rods.
3 Generously lubricate the crankpin journals with engine oil, and
turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in the most advantageous
position for the connecting rod to be drawn onto it.
4 Wipe clean the connecting rod bearing cap and back of the shell
bearings and fit the shell bearing in position, ensuring that the locating
tongue at the back of the bearing engages with the locating groove in
the connecting rod cap (photo).
5 Generously lubricate the shell bearing and offer up the connecting
rod bearing cap to the connecting rod.
6 Fit the connecting rod bolts and tighten them to a torque wrench
setting of 45 Ibf ft (6.2 kgf m) (photo).
7 When all the connecting rods have been fitted, rotate the crank-
shaft to check that everything is free and that there are no high spots
causing binding (photo).

49 Camshaft and front endplate — refitting

1 Wipe the camshaft bearing journals clean and lubricate them

generously with engine oil.
2 Insert the camshaft into the crankcase gently, taking care not to
damage the camshaft bearings with the cams (photo).
3 Fit a new gasket over the front of the cylinder block using the Fig. 1.4 Timing cover showing position of screws, bolts and nut
dowel to locate it correctly. (Sec. 50)
4 Carefully fit the front endplate aligning it with the dowel (photo).
5 Fit the one securing bolt located immediately above the crankshaft 12 Lubricate the front cover oil seal, fit a new gasket in place on the
nose.
endplate and fit the cover at an angle so as to catch the spring
6 Refit the camshaft locating plate. tensioner against the side of the chain. Alternatively, it can be hooked
7 Tighten the two camshaft locating plate securing bolts and spring
back using a piece of bent rod (photo).
washers (photo). 13 Swing the cover into its correct position and insert one or two
screws fingertight (photo).
14 Refit the five screws, six bolts and one nut that secure the cover.
50 Timing gears, chain tensioner and cover — refitting
Fig. 1.4 gives the position of these items. Do not tighten at this stage.
15 Insert the crankshaft pulley over the Woodruff key and through the
1 Place the gearwheel in position without the timing chain, and
seal.
place the straight edge of a steel rule from the side of the camshaft
16 Refit the pulley securing nut and tighten to a torque of 90 to 100
gear teeth to the crankshaft gearwheel, and measure the gap (if any)
Ibf ft (12.4 to 13.8 kgf m).
between the steel rule and the crankshaft gearwheel. If a gap exists, a
17 Tighten the screws, bolts and nut that secure the timing Cover. —
suitable number of packing washers must be placed on the crankshaft
nose to bring the crankshaft gearwheel onto the same plane as the
camshaft gearwheel.
2 Fit the Woodruff key to the slot in the crankshaft nose (photo). 51 Valves and valve springs — reassembly
3. It is possible to fit the sprocket wheel the wrong way round on the
camshaft. The best way of ensuring that the wheel is fitted the right To refit the valves and valve springs to the cylinder head proceed
way round is to make certain the two slot marks on the back of the as follows:
wheel correspond with the slots on the rear surface of the camshaft. 1 Rest the cylinder head on its side.
4 Lay the camshaft gearwheels on a clean surface so that the two 2 Fit each valve and valve spring in turn, wiping down and lubricat-
timing marks are adjacent to each other. Slip the timing chain over ing each stem as it is inserted into the same valve guide from which it
them and pull the gearwheels back into mesh with the chain so that was removed (photo).
the timing marks, although further apart, are still adjacent to each 3 Build up each valve assembly by first fitting the lower collar
other. Note: The camshaft timing sprocket is provided with four holes (photo).
which are equally spaced but are offset from a tooth centre. A half- 4 Fit the valve springs (photo).
tooth adjustment is obtained by turning the sprocket 90° from its posi- 5 Move the cylinder head towards the edge of the work bench if it is
tion. A quarter-tooth adjustment is obtained by turning the sprocket facing downwards, and slide it partially over the edge of the bench so
‘back to front’ and a three-quarter-tooth variation by turning it on the as to fit the bottom half of a valve spring compressor to the valve head.
bolt locations by 90° in this reverse position. Slide the upper collar over the valve stem.
5 With the timing marks adjacent to each other, hold the gearwheels 6 With the base of the valve compressor on the valve head, com-
above the crankshaft and camshaft. Turn the camshaft and crankshaft press the valve spring until the collets can be slipped into place in the
so that the Woodruff key will enter the slot in the crankshaft collet grooves. Gently release the compressor (photos).
gearwheel, and the camshaft gearwheel is in the correct position rela- 7 Repeat this procedure until all eight valves and valve springs are
tive to the camshaft (photo). fitted.
6 Fit the timing chain and gearwheel assembly onto the camshaft
and crankshaft, keeping the timing marks adjacent (photo 50.5)
7 Fit a new double tab washer in place on the camshaft gearwheel 52 Rocker shaft and tappets — reassembly
and fit the two retaining bolts to a torque wrench setting of 26 Ibf ft
(3.59 kgf m). 1 Fit the rear pedestal over the rocker shaft with its associated
8 Bend up the tabs on the lockwasher. rocker; secure in position with a Phillips screw, ensuring that it
9 The oil seal in the front of the timing cover should be renewed. To engages with the rocker shaft.
remove it, carefully prise it out with a screwdriver taking care not to 2 Slide the rockers, pedestals, springs and spacers over the front end
damage the timing cover in the process. of the shaft (Fig. 1.5).
10 Evenly press a new seal into the cover using a vice, ensuring that 3 When all is correctly assembled, fit the split pin to the front of the
the seal lip is towards the crankshaft sprocket wheel. shaft and oil the components thoroughly.
11. Fit the oil thrower in place on the nose of the crankshaft making 4 Generously lubricate the tappets internally and externally, and
sure that the dished periphery is towards the cover. insert them in the bores from which they were removed (photo).
32 Chaptery 1 Engine

51.3 Fitting a lower collar

51.6a Compressing a valve spring 51.6b Fitting the collets

Fig. 1.5 The component parts of the rocker shaft assembly (Sec. 52)

camshaft front bearing.

53 Cylinder head — refitting 4 Fit a new gasket in place. One side of the gasket is marked TOP
and must be fitted with this side facing upwards (photo).
1. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head block face then refit the 5 Generously lubricate each cylinder with engine oil.
cylinder head studs using the double nut method. 6 Ensure that the cylinder head face is perfectly clean and then
2 Note that the two slightly longer studs must be fitted to the last lower the cylinder head into place, keeping it parallel to the block to
two holes towards the rear of the block on the right-hand side for the avoid binding on any of the studs (photo).
engine lifting lug (photo). 7 With the head in place, lift the lifting eye over the two rear right
3. Apply a little jointing compound around the oil hole to the hand studs (photo).
 Chapter 1 Engine 33

ae)

53.6 Fitting the cylinder head

53.7 Cylinder head with lifting lug fitted 53.8 Tightening the cylinder head 53.9 Cylinder head with pushrods fitted

8 Fit the cylinder head nuts and washers and tighten down the nuts the hexagonal locknut with a spanner while holding the ball pin against
half a turn at a time in order shown in Fig. 1.2 to a torque wrench rotation with the screwdriver. Then, still pressing down with the
setting of 46 Ibf ft (6.4 kgf m) (photo). screwdriver, insert a feeler gauge in the gap between the valve stem
9 Insert the pushrods into the block so the ball end rests in the head and the rocker arm and adjust the ball pin until the feeler gauge
tappet. Ensure the pushrods are refitted in the same order in which will just move in and out without nipping. Still holding the ball pin in
they were removed (photo). the correct position, tighten the locknut (photo).
10 Then refit the rocker shaft assembly ensuring that the rocker arm
balljoints seal in the pushrod cups.
11. Refit the four rocker pedestal nuts and plain washers and tighten
them down evenly. 55 Crankshaft rear seal, housing, endplate and flywheel — refitting

1 A lip-type crankshaft rear oil seal is used and is located in the rear
seal housing.
2 Coat both sides of a new gasket with jointing compound and posi-
54 Rocker arms/valves — adjustment tion the gasket on the crankcase joint face.
3 Press a new seal into the oil seal housing with the lip of the seal
1 The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold. The facing the crankshaft. Oil the seal and carefully fit the housing, making
importance of correct rocker arm/valve stem clearances cannot be sure that the lip of the seal is not turned over.
overstressed as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. 4 Replace the housing bolts fingertight, turn the crankshaft over
2 If the clearances are set too open, the efficiency of the engine is several times to centralise the seal and tighten the bolts down firmly.
reduced as the valves open late and close earlier than was intended. If, The top bolt must have a copper washer under its head (photo).
on the other hand, the clearances are set too close, there is a danger 5 Fit a new input shaft bush into the hole in the centre of the crank-
tnat the stems will expand upon heating and not allow the valves to shaft (photo). ;
close properly. This will cause burning of the valve head and seat, and 6 No gasket is fitted between the endplate and the cylinder block. Fit
possible warping. the endplate in position and tighten down the securing bolts and
3. If the engine is in the car, to get at the rockers it is merely washers (photo).
necessary to remove the two holding down studs from the rocker 7 Make certain that the flange of the flywheel and crankshaft are
cover, and then to lift the rocker cover and gasket away. perfectly clean, and offer up the flywheel to the end of the crankshaft.
4 |t is important that the clearance is set when the tappet of the Ensure that the dowel enters the locating hole in the flywheel.
valve being adjusted, is on the heel of the cam (ie. opposite the peak). 8 Refit the four bolts and lockwashers (if fitted). Tighten down the
This can be done by carrying out the adjustments in the following four retaining bolts in a diagonal manner to a torque wrench setting of
order, which also avoids turning the crankshaft more than necessary: 4O Ibf ft (5.5 kgf m). Bend over the lockwasher tabs (photo).
9 Smear the crankshaft spigot bush with a small quantity of zinc
Adjust valves Valves fully open oxide grease.
1 and3 8 and6é
§ and2 4 and7
8 and6 7 and3
4 and/7 5 and2 56 Oil pump -— refitting

5 The correct valve clearance of 0.010 in is obtained by slackening 1 Wipe the mating faces of the oil pump and crankcase, and fit the
54.5 Adjusting the valve clearances 55.4 Copper washer on top bolt of oil seal 55.5 Crankshaft bush
housing "

56.3 Fitting the oil pump cover

58.2a Insert the gear with the slot in this 58.2b ... it will engage with the gear and turn
position ... to this position

58.3 Fitting the distributor boss 58.5 Fitting the distributor — clamping plate 59.1 Fitting the rocker cover
bolt arrowed
 Chapter 1 Engine 35
a eee

pump and driveshaft. If the drivegear shaft is fitted, ensure the oil between the underside of the housing flange and the block and sub-
pump driveshaft engages it correctly. tract this latter figure from the former to determine the endfloat with
2 Prime the pump to preclude any possibility of oil starvation when the standard gasket.
the engine starts. 5 Turn the distributor so that the rotor arm is pointing to the terminal
3 Refit the cover to the pump and tighten down the three securing in the cap which carries the lead to No 1 cylinder, and fit the distributor
bolts and washers (photo). to the distributor housing. The lip on the distributor should mate
4 Fit the pick-up strainer to the pump, if not previously fitted, and perfectly with the slot in the distributor driveshaft. Fit the bolt whichs
ensure the locknut is secure. the distributor clamp plate to the housing (photo).
6 Tighten down the two nuts and washers which hold the distributor
housing in place.
57 Sump - refitting 7 \lf the clamp bolt on the clamping plate was not previously
loosened and the distributor body was not turned in the clamping
1 After the sump has been thoroughly cleaned, scrape all traces of plate, then the ignition timing will be as before. If the clamping bolt
the old sump gasket from the sump and crankcase flanges, fit a new has been loosened, then it will be necessary to re-time the ignition as
gasket in place and then refit the sump (photo). described in Chapter 4.
2 Insert and tighten down the sump bolts and washers remembering
to fit the longer bolts at the rear of the sump, where they mate with the
holes in the oil seal housing. 59 Engine — final assembly

1 Fit a new rocker cover gasket and carefully fit the cover in place
58 Distributor and distributor drive — refitting (photo).
2 Refit the washers over the rocker cover studs, ensuring that the
It is important to set the distributor drive correctly as otherwise sealing washer lies under the flat steel washer. Refit the rocker cover
the ignition timing will be totally incorrect. It is easy to set the nuts.
distributor drive in apparently the right position, but in fact exactly 3 Make sure the mating faces of the water pump body and cylinder
180° out, by omitting to select the correct cylinder which must not head are clean and fit a new gasket holding it in position with a little
only be at TDC but must also be on its firing stroke with both valves jointing compound.
closed. The distributor should, therefore, not be fitted until the cylinder 4 Place the water pump body in position on the cylinder head face.
head is in position and the valves can be observed. Alternatively, if the 5 Secure the water pump body with the three bolts and reconnect
timing cover has not been replaced, the distributor drive can be the pipe union (photo).
replaced when the marks on the timing wheels are adjacent to each 6 Make sure that the mating faces of the water pump and body are
other. clean and fit a new gasket to the water pump body.
1 Rotate the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is at TDC and on its 7 Refit the water pump over the three studs (photo).
firing stroke. When No 1 piston is at TDC the inlet valve on No 4 8 Replace the three nuts and spring washers and tighten fully.
cylinder is just opening and the exhaust valve closing. The notch on the 9 Refit the starter motor into its aperture; replace the identical
pulley hub should be aligned with the 10 degree before graduation on packing and shims that were removed on dismantling.
the timing cover scale. 10 Secure the starter motor with the two nuts, bolts and spring
2 Insert the distributor drive into its housing (photo) so that when washers.
fully home, the slot in the top of the driveshaft is positioned with the 11. The alternator should be refitted next. Position the alternator and
larger segment facing downwards. Ensure that the slot is in line with fit the main mounting bolt assembly to the block (photo).
the threaded hole for oil filter attachment (photo). The end of the shaft 12 Fit the alternator adjustment bracket to the head.
engages with a slot in the top of the oil pump rotor shaft. It may be 13 Swing the alternator towards the head and fit the adjustment bolt
necessary to turn the pump rotor shaft to allow the distributor drive to assembly through the bracket and alternator.
engage fully. 14 Refit the fan belt. Adjust the tension until there is 2 in (19 mm) of
3. It is essential that between 0.003 and 0.007 in (0.076 and 0.178 lateral movement at the mid-point position of the belt between the
mm) endfloat exists between the top side of the gear driven by the alternator pulley wheel and the crankshaft pulley wheel. Tighten the
skew gear on the camshaft and the underside of the pedestal boss nuts.
(photo). If the same components are being used, it will be safe to 15 Refit the fuel pump using a new joint gasket, easing the rocker
assume that the endfloat is correct, but ensure the same number of arm to the outside of the cam.
packing washers are used (if any) and always fit a new gasket. 16 Secure the fuel pump with two nuts and spring washers.
4 lf the drivegears are assembled without endfloat, wear on the 17 Refer to Chapter 3 and refit the carburettor and inlet manifold.
crankshaft gearwheels, chain and distributor drivegear, will be very Reconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburettor installa-
heavy. If new components are being fitted then cut a small notch in the tion (photos).
outer edge of the distributor housing flange gasket and bolt the 18 Smear a little engine oil onto the threads of a new oil filter and
housing down firmly. Measure the thickness of the gasket with a feeler screw in the filter.
gauge placed in the notch. Then remove the distributor housing and 19 Fit new spark plugs, and the complete unit is now ready for refitt-
gasket and replace the housing without the gasket. Measure the gap ing the clutch and gearbox (Chapters 5 and 6).

59.5 Water pump pipe union 59.7 Fitting the water pump 59.11 Fitting the alternator pivot bolt
36 Chapter 1 Engine

59.17a Fitting the manifold ...

o) Water temperature cable

60 Engine - refitting p) Vacuum advance and retard pipe
q) Battery
Although the engine and gearbox can be refitted by one man anda 3. Finally check that the drain taps are closed, and refill the cooling
suitable winch, it is easier if two are present. One to lower the unit into system with water and the engine with the correct grade of oil.
the engine compartment, and the other to guide the unit into position
and to ensure that it does not foul anything. Generally speaking engine
replacement is a reversal of the procedures used when removing the 61 Engine — initial start-up after overhaul or major repair
engine (see Sections 4 and 5) but one or two added tips may come in
useful. 1 Make sure the battery if fully charged and that all lubricants,
1 Ensure all the loose leads, cables etc., are tucked out of the way. If coolants and fuel are replenished.
not, it is easy to trap one and cause much additional work after the 2 If the fuel system has been dismantled, it will require several
engine is replaced. revolutions of the engine on the starter motor to get the petrol up to
2 Carefully lower the unit into position and then refit the following: the carburettor.
a) Engine mountings and gearbox mounting 3 As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep it going at a fast
b) Propeller shaft to gearbox tickover only (no faster) and bring it up to normal working temperature.
c) Clutch slave cylinder to its hausing, tightening the clamp bolt 4 Asthe engine warms up, there will be odd smells and some smoke
d) Speedometer cable from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. Look for leaks of oil
e) Gear change lever and linkage or water, which will be obvious if serious. Check also the clamp con-
f) Multi-socket connector to alternator nections of the exhaust pipes to the manifolds.
g) Oil pressure switch and cable 5° When running temperature has been reached, adjust the idling
h) Wires to coil and distributor speed as described in Chapter 3.
i) Carburettor controls 6 Stop the engine and wait a few minutes to see if any lubricant or
J) Air cleaner coolant is dripping dbut when the engine is stationary.
k) Exhaust manifold to downpipe 7 Road test the car to check that the timing is correct and giving the
!) Earth and starter motor cables necessary smoothness and power. Do not race the engine — if new
m) Radiator and hoses bearings and/or pistons and rings have been fitted, it should be treated
n) Heater hoses as a new engine and run in at reduced revolutions for 500 miles.
a
rra a a
Chapter 1 Engine 37

62 Fault diagnosis — engine

ee
Symptom Reason/s
ee ee ese
Engine fails to turn over when starter switch is operated Discharged or defective battery.
Dirty or loose battery leads.
Defective solenoid or starter switch.
Loose or broken starter motor leads.
Defective starter motor.

Engine spins, but does not start Ignition components damp or wet.
Disconnected low tension lead.
Dirty contact breaker.
Faulty condenser.
- Faulty coil.
No petrol, or petrol not reaching carburettor.
Faulty fuel pump.
Too much choke, leading to wet plugs.

Engine stops and will not re-start Ignition failure.

Fuel pump failure.
No petrol in tank.
Water in fuel system.
Carburettor dashpot piston stuck.

Engine lacks power Burnt out exhaust valve.

Incorrect timing.
Blown cylinder head gasket.
Leaking carburettor gasket.
Incorrect mixture.
Blocked air intake, or dirty air filter.
Ignition automatic advance faulty.

Excessive oil consumption Defective valve stem oil seals.

Worn pistons and bores.
Blocked engine breather.

Engine noisy Incorrect valve clearances.

Worn timing chain.
. Worn distributor drive.
Worn bearings.
Chapter 2 Cooling system
Contents

XGtiineeZe — GOMelali) eis ciecde ote sis co arenas ear euebertingety alee 4 Fault diagnosis — cooling system +-++
.........essere rees 12
Coline Sain — Clee) ooocccn nocs
done ano0 om omc oo 2 Géneralidescription. = . ase ne rere eee a teen 1
neneies 3 Header tank — removal and refitting ............+...+--++. 6
Coolingisystennatilling’ sss sneer ice terencienette okt atin
Comm orncim—auteiive) sicacocnmoouoc moon amas o cm ce yf Radiator — removal and refitting ...........+.-+++:++s02: 5
Fan belt — removal, refitting and adjustment ...........+55: 11 Thermostat — removai, testing and refitting . «-..--.++++s+- 8
Faniblades=atemovaland) retittingn . aerctectan cs
rele. « ota 9 Water pump — removal and refitting .........-.-+++5+055 10

Specifications
eee

Type of system Pressurised, no loss, pump circulated with fan cooling

Thermostat
Wax filled
180°F (82°C) normal
190°F (88°C) cold climate

Expansion tank
EIGMCADeaLV DC Mma tote sions Gi eects ois she es. sMeucenerc lelMalena e Grates AC
Filletaea PiloneSSUTC mm. crea uate eee epsech its,ie, caMellsi ce3,tte saa. “oie a, oie) opens 13 Ibf/in? (0.91 kgf/cm?)

Fan blades
Number 7
Diameter 114 in (292 mm)

System capacity including heater ..................... 84 pints (4.83 litres)

Torque wrench settings ibf ft kgfm

Water elbow to water pump attachment .............500 0005: 18-20 2.5 -2.75
Water pump attachment (bolt) 18-20 Fags Pp T/i9}
Water pump attachment (stud) 12-14 1.7-2.0
Cyiinderblockidrainip|U Gimeaeestcn. ores aku \/awebawcite cits ciematto tae carare yore ie 30-35 4.2-4.9
RACIAUOMAIXG) GHDOItS mmmemrp nena Glsnlekrdc (sineieae <a) cease je olehalia'= aie 6-8 0.8 -- 1.1

open.
1. General description 2 Place a receptacle of about two gallons capacity beneath the
bottom nose connection of the radiator.
The engine is liquid cooled using a pressurised, fan-assisted 3 Turn the pressure cap on the header tank (photo) slowly to unlock
thermo-syphon system, which is thermostatically controlled. The it and then remove the cap. If the engine is hot, this operation requires
system is of the ‘no loss’ type and is pressurised so that the coolant great care because a sudden release of pressure can result in the
does not boil unless it reaches a temperature of about 225°F (107°C). coolant boiling and it is therefore advisable to cover the cap with a rag
The cooling system consists of an engine driven pump, which when unscrewing it.
circulates the coolant through the passages round the cylinders and 4 Remove the bottom hose (photo) and allow the coolant to start
combustion chambers to the thermostat. When the engine has draining into the receptacle, then remove the radiator filler plug.
achieved normal operating temperature and the thermostat is open, 5 When the coolant has drained from the radiator, move the
the coolant passes to the top of the radiator and in passing down the receptacle to beneath the cylinder block. Remove the cylinder block
radiator it is cooled rapidly by the flow of air which results from the drain plug and drain the block. The plug is on the right-hand side of the
forward motion of the car and the rotation of the fan behind the engine, towards the rear.
radiator. Coolant from the bottom of the radiator is fed to the inlet of
the pump and is then recirculated.
The radiator is connected to an expansion tank which retains the
coolant expelled from the radiator as the coolant expands on being 3 Cooling system —filling
heated. When the system cools, coolant is sucked from the expansion
tank back into the radiator. The header tank has a pressure relief valve 1 Reconnect the hose to the bottom of the radiator and tighten the
incorporated in its cap, the valve being closed unless the pressure in clip, then refit the cylinder block drain plug and tighten it.
the system exceeds 13 Ibf/in? (0-91 kgf/cm’). Above this pressure the 2 Pour soft water into the radiator filler plug until the radiator is full,
valve opens and vents the system to atmosphere, through the header then pour soft water into the header tank until the header tank is half
tank overflow pipe. full.
3 Refit the radiator filler plug and the header tank cap.
4 Run the engine at a fast idling speed for about three minutes or
until the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, then switch
2 Cooling system — draining the engine off.
5 Carefully remove the cap of the header tank and pour in soft water
1 Turn the heater control to HOT so that the heater water valve is until the tank is half full; then refit the cap.
eee eee . I Chapter 2 Coolingeesystem
ee ee 39

Sanaa

2.3 Header tank and pressure cap 2.4 Radiator bottom hose connection (arrowed)

3 Remove the four bolts from each side of the radiator which secure
4 Antifreeze — general the radiator to the mounting brackets, and lift out the radiator.
4 An alternative method is to remove the radiator complete with the
1 It is essential that the cooling system is filled with antifreeze mounting brackets and horns. In this case pull off the Lucar connectors
during the winter as protection against frost. to the horns and remove the four screws securing the radiator brackets
2 Some proprietary brands of antifreeze have a corrosion inhibitor to the body (photo).
added which can be left in the cooling system for up to two years, but 5 Refit the radiator in the reverse order of dismantling and refill the
after six months, and thereafter every three months, it is advisable to cooling system as described in Section 3.
have its specific gravity checked to ensure that it is still effective.
3 Antifreeze should be of the ethylene glycol type, conforming to
BS3151 or BS3152 and the degree of protection given by various
concentrations is shown in the Table (Fig. 2.1). 6 Header tank — removal and refitting

1 Remove the header tank filler cap to ensure that the cooling
system is no longer pressurised.
5 Radiator — removal and refitting 2 Release the clip and pull off the tank end of the hose to the
radiator (photo).
1 Drain the radiator as described in Section 2. 3 Pull off the overflow pipe.
2 Disconnect the radiator top hose (photo) and the hose to the 4 Remove the two bolts securing the tank retaining strap to the
header tank. body; remove the strap and the packing piece.

ANTI-FREEZE CONCENTRATION 7% 25 30 35

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF COOLANT AT 15:5°C (60°F) 1-039 1-048 1-054

PINTS orl 2°6 3:0

ANTI-FREEZE QUANTITY
LITRES yA

Z Complete
© Car may be driven immediately from cold
s=is
=
)
cm Safe Limit
fo Coolant mushy. Engine may be started and car —18°C
ice driven after short warm-up period 0°F
)
=is
Lower Protection
ex Prevents frost damage to cylinder head, block and —26°C
Co
rs radiator. Thaw out before starting engine —15°F
Q
Fig. 2.1 Anti-freeze concentration table (Sec.
40 Chapter 2 Cooling system
—————_——————

ee E ae

5.2 Radiator top hose 5.4 Radiator to body fixing bolt (arrowed) 6.2 Header tank to radiator hose

5 Lift out the tank and drain the coolant from it. 4 Place the thermostat in a container of water and place a ther-
6 Refit the tank as the reverse of the above, and then top up the mometer capable of indicating at least 212°F (100°C) in the water.
cooling system with soft water until the expansion tank is half full. 5 Heat the water and note the temperature at which the thermostat
valve opens. This temperature should be the one stamped on the ther-
mostat. The correct valve for the model is given in the Specifications.
7 Cooling system — flushing 6 Continue heating until the thermostat opens fully, then allow the
water to cool and check that the thermostat closes fully.
1 After prolonged use, the cooling system efficiency is reduced by an 7 lf the thermostat does not open or close fully when tested, fit a
accumulation of rust and sediment which tends to block the radiator. new one.
To clear the system, first drain it and then with the bottom hose still 8 Before refitting the thermostat, carefully clean the recess into
disconnected, put a hosepipe in the top of the radiator and allow water which it fits and remove ai! traces of old gasket and corrosion from
to flow through until there is no sign of dirt in the water which is both the thermostat housing face and also the face of the water pump
running to waste. housing.
2 Alternatively, remove the radiator, insert the hosepipe in the 9 Fit the thermostat, taking care that it seats snugly, then fit a new
bottom of the radiator and allow water to flow out of the filler hole. gasket. Refit the thermostat housing and retaining bolts, and tighten
3. Refit the radiator and hoses, refill the system and turn the engine them to a torque of 15 to 20 Ibf ft (2.1 to 2.8 kgf m).
until it is at normal operating temperature. Drain the cooling system 10 Add coolant to the header tank until the tank is half full.
again and refill with clean soft water.
4 For very badly corroded systems there are proprietary compounds
for flushing the system. These should be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions.
9 Fan blades — removal and refitting

8 Thermostat — removal, testing and refitting 1 Unscrew and remove the four screws and washers which secure
the fan blades to the hub of the water pump pulley.
1 Drain enough coolant from the system to bring the level down to 2 Pull the fan blades from the hub (photo).
below the thermostat. 3 When refitting the fan blades, fit one of the fixing bolts to the fan
2 Remove the two bolts securing the thermostat cover to the water blades and use this to locate the blades on the hub, then insert the
pump housing, then lift off the thermostat cover and gasket. other three bolts.
3 Remove the thermostat (photo) and inspect it for obvious damage. 4 Tighten the bolts until their spring washers are compressed.

: ae a“

8.3 Thermostat partially removed

 Chapter 2 Cooling system 41

——_—_—_—_-. fan assembly and withdraw the assembly from the housing.
10 Water pump — removal and refitting 3 If the pump is defective, remove the fan blades and refit an
exchange assembly of impeller and pulley.
1 Partially drain the cooling system so that the level of coolant is 4 Clean both faces of the joint, fit a new gasket, then refit the pump.
below the level of the water pump. 5 Refit the three nuts and washers, and tighten to a torque of 10 to
2 Remove the three nuts and washers securing the water pump and 14 Ibf ft (1.4 to 1.9 kgf m).

Spring washer
Bolt
Bearing housing assembly
complete with pulley
Nut
Gasket
Pump body stud
Pump body
Pump body-to-block gasket
Thermostat gasket
Spring washer
Bolt
Bolt
Spring washer
Water e/bow
Thermostat
Temperature transmitter
Spring washers
Pump body retaining bolts.
Note the different lengths
Pump body retaining bolts.
Note the different lengths
Pump body retaining bolts.
Note the different lengths
Fan assembly

Fig. 2.2 Component parts of water pump (Sec. 10)

42 Chapter 2 Cooling system

11 Fan belt — removal, refitting and adjustment

1 Slacken the alternator hinge bolt, unscrew the locknut on the

alternator adjustment bolt and then unscrew the bolt.
2 Push the alternator towards the engine until the adjuster bolt is at
the inner end of the slot.
3 Ease the bolt off the alternator pulley and then the crankshaft
pulley before lifting it off the water pump pulley and clear of the fan
blades.
4 When refitting the belt, fit it to the pulleys in the reverse order of
removal.
5 Push the alternator outwards until the belt is taut and temporarily
tighten the adjuster bolt.
6 Check belt tension by pressing the belt at the mid point of the span
between the alternator pulley and the crankshaft pulley. If the tension
is correct, the belt can be moved between 0.75 and 1.0 inch (20 and
25 mm).
7 Adjust the tension if necessary and when correct, tighten the
adjuster bolt and then its locknut. Finally, tighten the hinge bolt.
8 If a new fan belt js fitted, re-check the belt tension after about a
week. Fig. 2.3 Fan belt adjustment. The arrows indicate alternator
9 Do not overtighten the fan belt because this can damage the bear- securing points (Sec. 11)
ings of the alternator and water pump.

12 Fault diagnosis — cooling system

Symptom Reason/s

Engine overheating Insufficient coolant in the system.

Fan belt slipping.
Radiator core blocked or restricted.
Water hose kinked, restricting flow.
Thermostat defective.
Ignition timing incorrect (retarded).
Carburettor setting incorrect (mixture too lean).
Oil level in sump too low.
Blown cylinder head gasket causing loss of coolant.
Defective or incorrect pressure cap.

Engine too cool Thermostat jammed open.

No thermostat.
Outside temperature excessively low.

Loss of coolant Loose clips on hoses.

Water hoses perished and leaking.
Radiator core leaking.
Defective pressure cap.
Blown cylinder head gasket.
Leaking core plug.
Cracked cylinder or cylinder head.
Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems
Contents

Air cleaner — removal and refitting ..................-00. 7 Evdelipump = removaliand retittingm ar -ieens ie ieee 13
Carburetors = Gisinanthad as. as. . oe bax owes sav nu ce oe 4 Euvelpump:=testing: -rtssassssie sn ae meh ae elec tees 14
Carburetors — inspection»... Sames ones «cele eee. 5 Evelspumprtilten— cleanit ieee semen ae ae in a n aeere 1S
Carpurettors—-reassembly =. ..g6een .. oc a eae 6 Fuelitank —removaliand retitting essere cient aetna nee 16
Carburettors — removal andrefitting ..................00. 3 Generalidescription™ vs4-<-4...5.. . ee ee ee 1
Carburettors= tuning mre ee eee te ee 7 kamperproof canbUreltOr mous sence cen aie nan eee 8
Choke cable — removal and refitting ...................0.. 12 Throttleicable— removaland refitting) .. a5. 02.46. sneer y
Exhaust system — complete system removal and refitting) =a. 17 Throttle linkage —removal andrefitting ................... 1a
Rallitdiagnosis—fuelsystems tas salon elon 2-4 eee es 18 Throttle pedal —removal andrefitting .................... 10

ee ee ee eee

Specifications

Air cleaner
IVDO gas Wa ioe On sic, Soka cS eea RN ee ei Cs emai) Combined air cleaner and silencer. Twin renewable paper elements

1500TC up to engine 1500TC from engine No.

Carburettor No. YC25000 YC25001 and Dolomite
hg ee a eS Sas > eke eee eer ene Rema s ie. Bement Twin SU Type HS2E Twin SU Type HS4
Needle size AAX ABT
ACER 1a Se SCRE ceteris LAP ican 7 A oan ME es rea AR i 0-090 in 0-090 in

Fuel pump
MAKGIAONY DE ptt kets esterad. shale Ee Sear ke tus Ae as es AC diaphragm type, mechanicaliy operated
Pressure 2-5 to 3-5 Ibf/in? (0-18 to 0-25 kgf/cm?)

TWEE). ataot 8 Wer oy ae a cde eo SD, ee ENE oe Float-operated resistance

Fuel tank
TRYSie a iar deca AEE EARS Ae eS, A ee, en ete OE eee es Flat tank in !uggage compartment
Capacity 124 gal. (57 litres)

carburettor joint face gaskets and replace them with new ones if the
1. General description old ones are damaged.
6 Check that the cover plate seal is fitted properly, then refit the
The elements of the fuel system are a rear mounted tank, which cover and insert and tighten its retaining screw.
forms part of the floor of the luggage compartment, a mechanical fuel 7 Fit the carburettor joint gaskets over the two pairs of bolts
pump driven from the camshaft, and twin carburettors having separate protruding from the air cleaner, then fit the air cleaner and bridge pipe
air cleaners within a common housing. The carburettors are of the side and tighten the fixing bolts.
draught, variable orifice, SU Type HS2 or HS4. Note:Where a 8 Fit the two air hoses on to the air cleaner.
tamperproof carburettor is fitted, see Section 8. 9 Dirty filter elements result in poor engine performance and high
The exhaust system is in three pieces, a front pipe with a flange fuel consumption, and new elements should be fitted after intervals of
mounting on to the exhaust manifold, a centre section with main not more than 12000 miles or once a year. Under very dusty condi-
expansion chamber, and a tail pipe with a secondary expansion tions, more frequent renewal of the elements may be necessary.
chamber.

3 Carburettors - removal and refitting

2 Air cleaner — removal and refitting
1 Remove the air cleaner as described in Section 2 and pull off the
1 Pull the two air intake hoses off the air cleaner housing (photo). air breather pipes.
2 Remove the four bolts and washers securing the air cleaner 2 Disconnect the choke cable by unscrewing the clamping screw
housing to the carburettor, pull off the bridge pipe between the two and pulling out the wire, then remove the cable nipple so that it does
carburettor float chambers, then remove the air cleaner assembly and not fall out and become lost (photo).
<he air cleaner to carburettor gaskets. 3 Disconnect the link rod of the throttle lever from the shaft con-
3. Remove the central screw securing the air cleaner cover plate, necting the throttle of the two carburettors (photo).
(photo), remove the cover plate, (photo), and take out the two paper 4 Disconnect one end of each of the three throttle return springs.
elements. If new elements are to be fitted, discard them. 5 Pull off the vacuum pipe and remove the main fuel feed pipe.
4 Clean the inside of the air cleaner case and check that the two 6 Remove the four nuts and washers securing the carburettor
flexible air intake pipes are free of obstruction. flanges to the manifold and carefully pull the carburettors off their
5 Fit the bolts and washers through the air cleaner housing and slide mounting studs. Do not undo or remove any of the carburettor linkages
the paper elements on to the bolts. Inspect the cover plate seal and the unless it is unavoidable.
44 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

2.3a Air cleaner cover plate screw 2.3b Air cleaner with cover removed

3.2 Choke cable connection 3.3 Throttle lever link rod

7 When refitting the carburettors, use new gaskets and make sure three screws and washers from the float chamber lid and lift the lid off,
that all the joint faces are clean. with its gasket and the float.
14 Grip the serrated end of the float hinge pin, pull the pin out,
remove the float and the float needle, then unscrew the float needle
4 Carburettors — dismantling seating from the float chamber lid.
15 Close the throttle and put mating marks on the face of the throttle
1 Remove the carburettors as described in Section 3 and clean the valve and on the carburettor mounting flange so that the valve is not
outside of them thoroughly with petrol, or a proprietary cleaner. refitted the wrong way up, or the wrong way round, then remove the
2 Put mating marks on the suction chamber and the carburettor two screws securing the disc to the spindle. Open the throttle and
body to ensure that the suction chamber is refitted in exactly the same push the disc out of the spindle then put the disc and its screws in a
position. safe place.
3 Remove the damper and its washer from the top of the suction 16 Withdraw the throttle spindle and if further dismantling is
chamber and then remove the three fixing screws and lift the suction required, bend back the tabs of the lockwasher securing the spindle
chamber off. nut and screw the nut off, then remove the lever arm and washer. Take
4 Remove the piston spring, noting which way up it is fitted, then note of the relationship between the lever arm and the side of the
carefully lift out the piston assembly and pour the oil out of the centre spindle which has the countersunk holes of the throttle retaining
rod. screws.
5 Remove the locking screw from the piston guideway and with-
draw the jet needle and its spring, taking care not to bend the needle.
Slide the spring off the needle. 5 Carburettors — inspection
6 If the piston lifting pin is to be removed, push the pin upwards and
remove its circlip, then withdraw the pin and its spring downwards. Although the SU carburettor is simple and reliable, there are some
7 Unhook the end of the pick-up lever return spring, from the projec- parts which are susceptible to wear and other parts whose function
tion on the carburettor boay. can be impaired by dirt. The most common faults are the piston stick-
8 Support the plastic moulding at the base of the jet and remove the ing, the float needle sticking, the float chamber flooding and the
jet link and the link bracket if fitted. presence of water and dirt in the float chamber. The parts most liable
9 Unscrew the union where the jet flexible pipe enters the float to wear are the throttle valve, the needle and jet, and the needle valve
chamber, then carefully pull the jet out. Do not lose the gland washer and its seating.
and ferrule from the end of the jet flexible tube. 1 Examine the parts of the dismantled carburettor, check the fitting
10 Remove the jet adjusting nut and spring, then unscrew the jet of the throttle spindle in the body and if the play is excessive, fit a new
locking nut and remove the nut and jet. spindle. If the wear is in the bearings of the carburettor body, an
11 Remove the hexagon headed pivot bolt and its spacer, then exchange carburettor must be fitted, because new bodies are not
carefully take off the parts of the lever assembly and its springs, being supplied.
very careful to lay all the parts out, to keep them in the same relative 2 Examine the float needle for wear, which is indicated by a ridge or
positions as when assembled. groove on the tapered portion and also check to see that the spring
12 Remove the bolt securing the float chamber to the carburettor plunger at the opposite end of the needle operates freely. If the needle
body and separate the float chamber from the body. shows signs of wear, renew both the needle and the seating.
13 Put mating marks on the float chamber lid and body, remove the 3 Inspect all other components for wear and damage and renew any
 Fig. 3.1 SU carburettor components — typical (Sec. 4)

Jet assembly Identity label Pivot bolt Spring

Pin Hinge pin Bolt Stop screw
Spring Needle spring Stop screw Needle securing screw
Jet bearing Jet needle Spring Suction chamber and
Washer Needle guide Nut piston assembly
Carburettor body Screw Washer, tab Piston spring
Circlip Spring Throttle lever assembly Screw
Adaptor Screw Spring washer Screw
Float chamber
WNH®
BANDANA Bracket Plain washer Damper assembly
Gasket Skid washer Spring, cam lever Washer
Float assembly Cam lever Pick-up lever and link Screw
Needle and seat assembly Tube assembly Throttle disc
Float chamber lid Tube Return spring Carburettor throttle spindle
Washer Distance washer Washer Jet adjustment nut
46 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems
sa

parts which are unserviceable. After a mileage in excess of 50000 it is then locate the key in the piston keyway, fully insert the piston, refit
advisable to fit a new jet and needle, and a new set of gaskets and the spring, refit the suction chamber with the mating marks aligned
seals will be required. and insert the screws. Tighten the three suction chamber securing
screws evenly.
18 Refit the lever assembly, return springs and pivot bolt tubes. Refit
—
EEE the pivot bolt and spacer, and engage the end of the pick up return
spring with the lug on the carburettor body.
6 Carburettors — reassembly
a
eeeeee ee 19 Hold the choke lever to take the spring pressure off the jet pick-up
link, refit the link bracket (where applicable), then support the end of
1. Refit the throttle spindle to the carburettor body with the the plastic jet and insert and tighten the screw securing the link to the
countersunk holes in the spindle towards the air cleaner. jet.
2 Fit the spacing washer, lever lock washer and nut on to the 20 As an initial mixture setting, unscrew the jet adjusting nut two
spindle, ensuring that the end of the idling screw is against the cast complete turns.
stop on the carburettor body when the throttle is closed. Tighten the
spindlenut and bend the tabs on the lock washer to prevent it from
rotating.
3 Insert the throttle disc into the spindle slot so that the mating 7 Carburettors — tuning
marks are aligned. The correct position is with the limit valve at the
bottom of the disc and the head of the valve towards the engine.
Manoeuvre the disc in the spindle until the throttle can be closed and 1 Before any adjustments are made to the carburettors, check the
then snap the throttle fully open and then fully closed, to centratise the contact breaker gap and ignition timing to ensure that they are correct.
disc in the bore of the carburettor. 2 Carburettor adjustments are best done by a garage having
4 Fit two new screws to the spindle, but do not tighten them until specialised equipment, or by a car owner having the use of a car-
further checking that the disc is properly centralised. After tightening burettor balancing gauge and a ‘Colortune’ spark plug, but in the
the screws, slightly burr one end of their slots to prevent them from absence of these the following method will give a reasonable, although
coming undone. not ideal, result.
5 Screw the needle valve seating into the float chamber lid firmly, 3. Check the piston damper oil level and if necessary top them up
but do not overtighten it, then insert the coned end of the needle into with engine oil until the level is + in (13 mm) above the top of the
the seating. hollow piston rod.
6 Fit the float to the chamber lid and insert the hinge pin with its 4 Check that the throttles move freely with no trace of sticking, and
plain end first. that the choke cable has % in (1-6 mm) of free movement.
7 Fit a new gasket to the float chamber body, fit the cover with the 5 Remove the air cleaners (Section 2) and then refit the bridge pipe
mating marks aligned, then insert and tighten the three cover retaining between the two carburettors.
screws, taking care to tighten them evenly. 6 Connect up a suitable tachometer, start the engine and run it at
8 Fit the float chamber to the carburettor body, then insert and about 2500 rpm until the temperature gauge indicates normal running
tighten their fixing bolts. temperature and then let it run for about another minute. If the
9 If the piston lifting pin was removed, refit it and its spring, press it temperature of the engine falls below normal before the test is com-
upwards and fit the circlip into the groove in its upper end. pleted, the test must be interrupted and the engine run again to restore
10 Clean the inside of the suction chamber and the outside of the it to operating temperature.
piston with a soft rag soaked in petrol or methylated spirit, but do not 7 Stop the engine and raise the piston of each carburettor in turn by
use any abrasive. pushing its lifting pin (photo). Release the pin and allow the piston to
11 Check the operation of the suction chamber by inserting the fall, ensuring that when it reaches its bottom stop there is a distinct
damper rod and its washer in the top of the suction chamber and metallic click. If either piston fails to do this, check the damper opera-
screwing it in firmly, then with the assembly upside down, inserting tion as described in Section 6 paragraphs 11 and 12.
the damper piston without its spring. Fit a nut, bolt and large washer to 8 Start the engine again and check that the idling speed is between
one of the mounting holes in the flange, so that the washer protrudes 750 and 800 rpm. If this is not the case, stop the engine and loosen
over the rim of the suction chamber and acts as a stop to prevent the the throttle interconnection clamp bolts and the choke interconnection
piston from coming out of the bore. clamp bolts (photo). Start the engine, and with a piece of flexible pipe
12 The exposed end of the piston has two transfer holes drilled in it inserted into the air intake of each carburettor in turn, listen to the hiss
and these must be plugged temporarily with pieces of rubber or of the ingoing air. Adjust the throttle screw of each carburettor until no
plasticine. When this has been done, lift the piston until it is against difference in hiss can be discerned between them and the tachometer
the stop, then release it and allow it to fall under its own weight. indicates correct idling speed.
Measure the time which it takes to complete its travel, which should 9 With the idling speed correct and the carburettors balanced, it may
be between five and seven seconds. If it takes longer than this check be necessary to adjust the carburettor mixture settings if the engine
the piston and bore for cleanliness and damage, then repeat the test. If does not run smoothly.
the time taken is not within the limits, fit a new assembly. 10 Turn the jet adjusting nut (photo) of both carburettors so that the
13 Fit the spring and guide to the needle, and insert the assembly into jet moves upwards as far as it will go, then undo each jet nut two com-
the bottom of the piston. Ensure that the bottom face of the guide is plete turns.
flush with the bottom face of the piston and that the etched locating 11 With the engine running at idling speed, simultaneously turn the
mark on the guide points towards the piston transfer holes and is mid- nuts of both carburettors one flat at a time, in whichever direction is
way between, then clamp ihe guide, using a new locking screw. If the necessary to obtain smooth running. Turning the nuts upwards will
guide has a flat machined on its side, this flat must be placed so that weaken the mixture and turning them downwards will enrich it.
the locking screw tightens on to it and if the screw remains proud of 12 When the engine is running smoothly, re-check the idling speed
the piston when tightened, it is an indication that the guide has not and if necessary turn the idling screw of each carburettor equally, until
been positioned correctly (Fig. 3.2). the correct speed is restored.
14 Check that the screw securing the damper piston key in the car- 13 Set the throttle interconnecting clamp levers until the lever pins
burettor body is tight. rest on the lower arm of the forks, then insert feeler gauges totalling
15 Insert the jet bearing and secure it in place with its locknut, then fit 0-030 in (0-76 mm) between the heel of the fulcrum plate and the
the spring and screw on the jet adjusting nut, screwing the nut on as machined surface of the manifold. While keeping the feeler gauges and
far as possible. the clamping levers in position, tighten the clamp nuts.
16 Fit the jet into its bearing and if the brass sleeve nut, washer and 14 Set the choke interconnecting rod so that it has an end clearance
ferrule were removed they must now be refitted with at least 2 in (4.8 of about in (0-8 mm), then tighten its clamp nuts.
mm) of the tube projecting beyond the ferrule. Tighten the sleeve nut, 15 Pull out the choke control until the linkage is just about to move
so that the ferrule is compressed, but do not crush it because this will the jet. Start the engine and adjust the fast idle screws to give an
cause leaks. engine speed of 1100 to 1200 rpm.
17 Make sure that the piston transfer holes are no longer plugged, 16 Disconnect and remove the tachometer and re-fit the air cleaner.
 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems 47

cM

MM aX

Fig. 3.2 Location of different needle types in the piston (Sec. 6)

Needles with machined flats must be inserted so that the flat faces the locating screw
Edge of the needle guide is (1) flush with the piston (2) etch mark in line with transfer holes (3)

7.7 Piston lifting pin 7.8 Throttle interconnection clamp bolt 7.10 Jet adjusting nut

speed. The remaining adjustments either cannot be carried out without

8 Tamperproof carburettor special tools, or legislation prohibits them.

General Dismantling
1 Later vehicles may have tamperproof carburettors which, although 4 If any attention is required to the float chamber, float or needle
still of the SU HS4 type, differ in many details (Fig. 3.3). assembly, refer to Sections 4, 5 and 6 for further information.
2 They can be identified by a sealed mixture control nut, and a 5 For any further dismantling or adjustment, other than the items
throttle return spring acting directly on the throttle butterfly spindle. given in the following paragraphs, contact your Leyland dealer.
These carburettors may also have a temperature compensated jet
(capstat), a ball-bearing suction chamber assembly and a sealed slow- Needle assembly — removal and refitting
running adjustment screw. 6 Index mark the suction chamber and carburettor body so that the
3 The only readily accessible external adjustment is the fast idle parts can be reassembled in the same relative positions.
48 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

Ball bearing suction chamber piston damper — removal

and refitting
11 Unscrew the cap and pull the damper out until resistance is felt,
then steadily force the damper up to release the clip from the piston.
Take care not to bend the damper rod.
12 When refitting, insert the damper assembly into the suction
chamber and engage the clip securely into the piston. To prevent the
piston from moving downwards, use finger pressure, and make sure
that the clip is securely seated in the piston rod. Note: If the car-
burettor is still fitted to the manifold, better access will be obtained by
removing the air cleaner.
13 Top-up the piston damper oil level as described in the following
paragraphs.

Piston damper oil level (ball bearing suction chamber

type) — topping-up
14 Unscrew the cap carefully, and raise the piston and damper until
Fig. 3.3 Tamperproof carburettor (Sec. 8)
resistance is felt.
15 Fill the recess in the damper retainer with clean engine oil tien
Sealed mixture contro/ nut
lower the damper until the cap contacts the suction chamber.
Throttle return springs
16 Repeat this procedure until the oil level is just visible at the bottom
Temperature compensated jet (capstat)
of the recess.
Ball bearing suction chamber assembly
17 Refit the damper cap.
Sealed slow running adjustment screw
Idle adjustment screw
Piston damper assembly
Suction chamber
Piston assembly
9 Throttle cable — removal and refitting
Needle assembly
KROM~AMOODSL
] 1 Pull the cable retaining clip off the top of the throttle pedal lever,

»
pull on the exposed end of the cable and lift it upwards out of the slot
in the pedal lever (Fig. 3.6).
2 Compress the fingers of the ferrule which secures the outer cable
S to the bu!khead (Fig. 3.7) at the pedal end and withdraw the outer and
inner cables complete.
3 Remove the split cotter from the clevis pin at the carburettor end
of the cable; take off the washer and pull out the pin.
4 Slacken the locknut of the cable adjuster (Fig. 3.8) and then screw
the lower nut off the end of the adjuster.
5 Remove the cable assembly through the slot in the adjuster
bracket.
6 When refitting the cable, first thread the pedal end of the cable
through the bulkhead then push the ferrule on the outer cable until its
fingers spread out and lock. Slot the inner cable into the end of the
pedal, making sure that the cable nipple fits properly into its recess,
Fig. 3.4 Piston and needle assembly (Sec. 8) then fit the cable retaining clip.
7 Position the cable so that it is not kinked and has no sharp bends.
1 Needle assembly retaining Unscrew the lower nut off the end of the adjuster and screw the upper
screw nut to the top of the adjuster.
2 Needle assembly 8 Slot the cable through the adjuster bracket, lift the fulcrum plate
and fit the clevis pin securing the cable eye to the fulcrum plate. Fit the
washer on to the clevis pin, insert a new split cotter and spread it to
make it secure.
9 Screw down the top adjuster nut until the cable is tensioned and
the heel of the fulcrum plate is just touching the machined face of the
manifold, then screw up the lower adjuster nut so that the screwed
adjuster is locked.

10 Throttle pedal — removal and refitting

1 Remove the cable retaining clip from the top of the pedal lever,
Fig. 3.5 Piston damper retaining clip (arrowed) (Sec.8) pull the exposed end of the throttle cable and lift it out of the slot in the
pedal.
7 Remove the three screws and take off the suction chamber. 2 Remove the two bolts with spring and plain washers which secure
8 Lift off the spring and remove the piston and needle assembly. the peda! bracket to the front bulkhead, and remove the bracket
Note: if the piston damper has not been removed, the suction assembly.
chamber, spring and piston will all lift off together. 3 Dismantle the assembly by withdrawing the split cotter, removing
9 Release the retaining screw and withdraw the needle assembly. the washer and withdrawing the clevis pin.
10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, but if replace- 4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure but make sure
ment parts are needed make sure that they are renewed as an that the pedal spring is fitted so that the pedal returns positively, and
assembly, not individually. Make sure that the lower edge of the guide the cable and cable clip are positioned so that the cable cannot slip out
is flush with the face of the piston, and that the guide is positioned so of the slot in the pedal rod. When refitting the clevis pin, use a new."
that the locking screw locates on the flat. split cotter. s al
 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems 49

Fig. 3.7 Bulkhead ferrule (Sec. 9)

SSS
SS

Ss

Fig. 3.8 The throttle cable fitting at the carburettors (Sec. 9)

Fig. 3.6 Throttle pedal and cable assembly (Sec. 9) 1 Locknut 4 Adjustment sleeve on outer
2 Locknut cable
1 Retaining clip 5 Split pin 3 Cable end fitting
2 Throttle cable inner 6 Clevis pin
3 Bracket retaining bolt 7 Pedal and return spring
4 Pedal bracket

11 Throttle linkage — removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the throttle cable from the fulcrum plate by removing

the clevis pin, then remove the cable from the adjuster bracket
(Section 9, paragraphs 4 and 5).
2 Unhook the upper ends of the two throttle return springs and
release the clip at each end of the link rod between the fulcrum plate
and the throttle interconnection lever, then remove the link rod.
3 Remove the two bolts securing the linkage bracket to the manifold
and remove the bracket assembly.
4 Refitting is the reversal of the removal operation.

12 Choke cable — removal and refitting

1 Unscrew the nipple from the carburettor end of the cable, pull the
inner and outer cables free of the carburettor and remove the nipple
and put it in a safe place.
2 From inside the car, pull the choke knob and remove it and the
inrer cable compiete, then carefully unscrew the bezel and remove it.
3 Push the screwed ferrule of the outer cable through its fixing hole,
feel for it underneath the dashboard, then locate the clutch switch Fig. 3.9 Choke cable components (Sec. 12)
attached to the outer cable and pull off its lead.
4 From inside the engine compartment, locate the rubber coupling 1 Choke control knob 4 Cable outer
which joins the two parts of the outer cable. Pull the carburettor 2 Ferrule 5 Rubber connector in engine
‘section of the outer cable out of the rubber coupling. and remove this 3 Locknut bay
50 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems
nS ee ee ee
section, then remove the remaining section by pulling it from inside the 2 Start the engine and observe the pressure, which should be
car. between 2.5 and 3.5 Ibf/in? (0.18 to 0.25 kgf/cm’). if the pressure is
5 When refitting the choke cable, which is the reverse of the forego- above this, fit additional gaskets between the pump and the cylinder
ing, clean and lightly oil the inner cable before inserting it and make block, which has the effect of reducing the stroke of the pump. If the
sure that the cable is not kinked, or bent sharply, when fitted. pressure of the pump is below 2.5 Ibf/in? (0.18 kgf/cm’), a new pump
must be fitted.
3 After completing the test, disconnect and remove the pressure
13 Fuel pump — removal and refitting gauge.

1. Disconnect the pipes from the inlet and outlet sides of the pumps,
taking care that any fuel which escapes does not get ignited. 15 Fuel pump filter — cleaning
2 Remove the two bolts and washers securing the pump to the
cylinder block and pull the pump outwards and downwards to remove 1 The fuel pump which is fitted is one of the throw-away types and
it, then remove the gasket (photo). the only dismantling which is possible is the removal of the cover to
3 When refitting the pump, reverse the order of operations used for clean the filter.
its removal. Use a new gasket and after refitting the fuel pipes, make 2 Remove the screw from the dome sealing ring and filter (photo).
sure that there are no leaks. When offering the pump up to the engine, 3 Clean the pump dome and turn the filter upside down and blow
take care to ensure that the pump lever is in contact with the top of the through it. If the filter is damaged, fit a new one.
camshaft, otherwise the arm will be damaged. 4 Refit the filter to the dome, examine the dome seal and fit a new
one if necessary, then refit the dorne and tighten the retaining screw.

14 Fuel pump — testing

16 Fuel tank — removal and refitting
1 Connect a pressure gauge having a range of O to 5 Ibf/in? (O to
0-35 kgf/cm’) in the fuel line between the pump and the carburettor. 1 With the car in a place where there is no possibility of naked
flames or sparks, isolate the battery and drain the contents of the fuel
tank into a metal container having a well fitting screw top. Disconnect
the fuel outlet pipe.
2 Open the boot lid and remove the luggage compartment carpet,
the spare wheel cover and spare wheel.
3 Undo the hose clamps connecting the filler pine to the tank and
disconnect the hose from the tank.
4 Undo the hose clamp and disconnect the breather hose from the
tank.
5 Remove the cover over the fuel tank gauge unit. pull off the two
Lucar connectors and free the cableform from the tank (photo).
6 Remove the four bolts and washers securing the tank to the body,
and lift the tank up and out of the luggage compartment, taking care
not to damage the fuel outlet pipe.
WARNING: Do not attempt to do any soldering or welding on the
tank unless it has been steam-cleaned for at least an hour. If it has
not been steam-cleaned, store it away from any source of heat, or
sparking.
7 Refit the tank by reversing the removal instructions, taking care to

13.2 Removing the fuel pump

Fig. 3.10 Fuel tank installation (Sec. 16)

15.2 Fuel pump with cover removed 1 Retaining bolts 4 Cable connections to fuel
2 Clip securing breather pipe gauging unit
3 Tank-to-tiller pipe hose
 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems 51

17.3 Exhaust pipe rubber mounting

a : :
17.5 Front pipe support bracket 17.7 Front pipe to intermediate pipe joint 17.10 Throttle spring anchor bracket

connect the fuel tank contents gauge correctly. One of the Lucar con- and detach the throttle spring anchor bracket.
nectors is uninsulated and should be connected to the contact on the 6 Remove the temporary support of the intermediate pipe and take
case of the unit. The Lucar connector with the plastic sleeve over it the front and intermediate pipes as an assembly out from beneath the
should be connected to the insulated contact on the tank unit. car.
8 It is preferable not to put the fuel which was drained from the tank 7 To separate the front and intermediate pipes (photo), saturate the
back again, because it is likely to contain dirt and water. If it is returned joint in a proprietary anti-corrosion fluid, remove the bolt of the joint
to the tank, it should first be strained. clamp and separate the two pipes.
8 When refitting the system, use a new gasket on the front pipe to
manifold joint, and new rubbers for the other two support points.
17 Exhaust system — complete system removal and refitting S Insert the intermediate pipe into the front pipe with the joint clip in
place, but not tightened, and place the assembly beneath the car in
1 If possible have the car over a pit, or jack the near side of the body approximately its fitted position.
as high as possible and support the body on firmly based stands. 10 Fit a new gasket to the manifold to front pipe joint, fit the front
2 Undo the clip which clamps the intermediate pipe to the tailpipe pipe over the manifold studs, re-fit the throttle spring anchor bracket
(photo) and separate the two pipes. It is usually necessary to saturate (photo) and the washers, then screw on and fully tighten the three
the joint with a proprietary anti-corrosion preparation before one pipe nuts.
will move relative to the other. 11. Refit the bolt through the front pipe support bracket and tighten it.
3 Remove the rubber mounting which holds the tail pipe to its 12 Fit the new rubber to the intermediate pipe mounting, then thread
mounting bracket (photo), then pull the tail pipe over the rear axle and the tail pipe over the rear axle and insert its end into the intermediate
remove it. pipe.
4 Remove the rubber mounting from the intermediate pipe and 13 Fit the new rubber to the tail pipe mounting, carefully align the
temporarily support the pipe. intermediate and tail pipes so that they will not knock against any part
5 Remove the bolt from the front pipe support bracket (photo) and of the body and then tighten the joints at each end of the intermediate
the three nuts holding the front pipe to the manifold. Separate the joint section, ensuring that they are gas-tight.

See overleaf for ‘Fault diagnosis-fuel system’

52 Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

18 Fault diagnosis — fuel system

Symptom Reason/s

Smell of petrol with engine stopped Leaking fuel tank.

Leaking fuel pipe orjoints.

Smell of petrol with engine running Leaking fuel pipe

Carburettor needle valve set wrongly, or punctured float.

Excessive fuel consumption without obvious petrol leakage Worn needle. f

Sticking needle.
Dirty air cleaner.

Failure to start or difficult starting Choke control not operating properly.

Fuel blockage.
Fuel pump defective.
Intake manifold gasket leaking.
Carburettor loose on manifold.
Carburettor piston stuck.
rr
Chapter 4 Ignition system
Contents

Condenser—removaliandirefitting. . ..4..<ce.+..90-.100.0- 6 Fault diagnosis — engine starts but misfires ................ 1s

Contact breaker points— adjustment .................00. 2) Faultciagn Osis —IghitiOniSYStemn. sina saocieercnn en ar eae 11
Contact breaker points — removal and refitting ............. 4 General description
Distributor — dismantling, inspection and reassembly ......... 3 Ignition coil and ballast resistor — description, removal and
Distributor — lubrication 8 FOTICEIOGu ce5e o.cvete, eine -4 1 SRC ena CRC Cae ae 9
Distributor — removal and refitting ................00000- 2 Ignitionstiming adjustment, ccs castes oes es eeeeee rn WZ
Fault diagnosis — engine fails to start 2 Sparkiplugs:andgil Wleads: aw oc wccen en tects eee one teen eee eae 10
cS

Specifications
SS

Ignition coil
VuaKe
lv DC mae oat ta icy Ar OL = Os, Ae ae Lucas 15C6 or 15P6
bia GV WVIMCIIIG MESIStANCE ta otk Wokee, nance: Gace! kc sik ays useiu sie ewous 1.30 to 1.45 ohms
Ballast resistor (incorporated in harness) .............0.00005 1.3 to 1.5 ohms

Distributor
Make/type
Up to engine No. YC8740 Lucas 25D4
From engine No. YC8741 Lucas 45D4

25D4 45D4
OMLACIO A Pea te ema Sie al acag Mesa ve),shia ties Tuly, aera SMesaste aewete 0.014 to 0.016 in 0.014 to 0.016 in
(0.36 to 0.41 mm) (0.36 to 0.41 mm)
HOparOn vie WOO SCOM POD mean cucusee ier corners doyekOn tc fo)seer kee heli aa Anticlockwise Anticlockwise
VENTA ISG setries hier sy Sheet Nr eh age eter tan wuts Basel ve Sakis, rege mage 6ORaSe Bilieter oe.
MOVINGiCONLACL SPHIRG TENSION « seinecis-oa w.6,2 250 dod eens age g ee 18 to 24 oz (500 to 700 g) 18 to 24 oz (500 to 700 g)
APA CH ONCADACITViewer, reo ee chnay eaeateer le lated eases mGlogspear dhcero 0.20 mfd 0.20 mfd
AITO MUMIIGNSTAUCIE oon, dee Seeger iocaroucys sue oye orauctemunas, sce hcnain aay. 10° BTDC 10° BTDC

Spark plugs
Make/type
Up to engine No. 25083 Champion N9Y
From engine No. 25084 Champion N12Y
Electrode gap 0.025 in (0.64 mm)

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft kgf m

SAT Saaaege oo Gas das: Soul Gaba phate, wa Goons loao th ahi elles oie Ghee wins 20 2.8

motor is in use and if the normal rated voltage of the ignition coil is 12
1. General description volts, it can only produce a very weak spark under starting conditions.
To overcome this, the ignition coil is rated at 6 volts, so that it can
For an engine to run at maximum efficiency, the spark must ignite receive its full voltage under starting conditions. To prevent it from
the fuel/air charge in the combustion chamber at exactly the right being overloaded under normal conditions, a voltage dropping resistor
moment for the particular engine speed and load conditions. is connected in series with it unless the starter motor is in use.
The ignition system comprises the ignition coil, which is two wind-
ings which are coupled electromagnetically; and the distributor which
is a mechanically operated switch. The distributor contacts apply
battery voltage to the low tension winding of the ignition coil, and at
the instant when the low tension, or primary winding is switched off, a 2 Distributor — removal and refitting
very high voltage is induced in the high tension secondary winding.
This very high voltage is switched to the appropriate cylinder by the 1 Pull the high tension connection from the centre of the ignition coil
distributor rotor and jumps to earth across the electrodes of the spark and remove the caps from the four spark plugs (photo).
plug. 2 Release the two spring clips securing the distributor cover, then
A vacuum diaphragm, which is controlled by the suction of the remove the distributor cover with the ignition harness attached.
intet manifold, causes the instant of switching of the low tension 3 Remove the Lucar connector from the low tension connection to
winding of the coil to be varied according to inlet manifold suction and the contact breaker.
therefore engine load, while a centrifugally operated cam, produces a 4 Note the position of the rotor arm, so that the distributor can be
variation in switching which is dependent upon engine speed. Because refitted with the rotor arm in the same position.
the car battery has an internal resistance, which cannot be avoided, 5 Pull the vacuum pipe from the vacuum control unit.
the voltage between its terminals falls as the load on the battery 6 Remove the nut, spring washer and bolt (photo) to release the
increases. Because the starter motor imposes a very heavy load on the clamp plate from the pedestal and then lift *he distributor from the
battery, its terminal voltage falls to about 6 volts while the starter pedestal.
54 Chapter 4 Ignition system

2.1 High tension leads

7 When refitting the distributor, turn the rotor arm to the same posi- condition and moves smoothly.
tion as it was when removed and fit the distributor to the pedestal. If 11 To reassemble the distributor, first smear the shaft with oil, then
the drive does not engage, turn the rotor arm slightly first in one direc- insert it with its spacer and steel washer. :
tion and then in the other, until the distributor drive is fully engaged. 12 Refit the drive dog and thrust washer, making sure that it is fitted
8 Insert and tighten the fixing bolt, refit the cap, and reconnect the to the spindle the same way as before it was removed. Insert and drive
high and low tension wires. the taper pin in fully.
13 Fit the centrifugal weights to the pivots on the underside of the
cam, oil the pivots sparingly and also smear aii over the faces of the
weights and on their heels which make contact with the cams on the
3 Distributor — dismantling, inspection and reassembly shaft assembly.
14 While holding the cam upside down to keep the weights in place,
1500TC, up to engine No. YC8740 lower the distributor body on to the cam, ensuring that the mating
1 Remove the distributor as described in the previous section and marks on the cam and body will line up. Turn the distributor body first
pull off the rotor arm. in one direction and then the other through a small angle, so that the
2 Remove the two screws securing the contact plate assembly, lift centrifuga! weights fit against the cams on the shaft assembly, then
off the eye of the vacuum control unit rod and lift out the assembly. ‘insert and tighten the cam retaining nut.
Remove the nut from the terminal post, the clamp screw and washers 15 Reconnect the control springs and check that the cam can move
from the contact plate and the condenser fixing screw, then remove relative to the distributor spindle.
the condenser, fixed point and moving point assembly. 16 Refit the vacuum unit, taking care to fit the spring, the spring clip
3 Turn the two parts of the plate assembly until the peg of the upper against the knurling and the wire clip to retain the nut.
part can be disengaged from the keyhole slot in the lower part, then 17 Reassemble the two parts of the baseplate, smearing oil on to the
separate the two parts. sliding surfaces. Fit new contacts and a new condenser unless the
4 Remove the small wire clip from the end of the vacuum unit ones removed were almost new.
threaded spindle, taking care not to lose it. Unscrew and remove the 18 Re-fit the baseplate and contact assembly; re-fit and tighten the
adjuster nut; remove, and take care not to lose, the spring clip which fixing screws, taking care to fit the contact tag on to one of the screws.
bears against the knurled rim of the nut. Remove the spring from the 19 Adjust the contact breaker gap (Section 5), then refit the rotor arm
spindle, then pull the vacuum unit out of the distributor body. and distributor cap.
5 Before proceeding further with the dismantling, it is essential to
put mating marks on the distributor drive dog and distributor body, and 1500TC after engine No. YC8740, and Dolomite
also the cam and the distributor body. Failure to do this can result in The distributor used on later models in the range is the Lucas
the distributor being assembled so that the engine timing will be 45D4 which has a vacuum unit, but is not provided with a micrometer
wrong by 180° and the engine will not start. . adjustment. Dismantling and reassembly is the same except for
6 After putting mating marks, disengage the two control springs, paragraph 4. Removal of the vacuum unit on the 45D4 distributor is by
taking care not to damage them. It is good practice to remove the cam removing the two screws which attach the vacuum unit to the
end of one spring and the body end of the other, leaving the opposite distributor body.
end of each spring attachea. This ensures that the cam is refitted in the
same position as it was before removal.
7 Remove the screw from the centre of the cam and while holding 4 Contact breaker points — removal and refitting
the cam, turn the distributor upside down and pull the distributor body
off the cam. This will leave the two centrifugal weights on their pivots 1 If the contact breaker pcints are pitted, or burnt they should be
on the underside of the cam. Note the position of the weights and then renewed, and it is recommended that a new contact breaker assembly
remove them. is fitted at the same time as new Spark plugs are fitted.
8 The drive coupling is secured by a taper pin. If the drive coupling is 2 Two types of contact breaker assembly are available, the one-
to be removed, first ascertain which is the smaller diameter end of the piece type and the one consisting of separate contacts (photo) which is
pin and drive it out from this end. Put mating marks on the coupling more likely to be found on earlier modeis.
and spindle, so that the coupling is not refitted the wrong way round. 3 For the one-piece type, unscrew and remove the nut from the
9 Remove the coupling and thrust washer, then pull the spindle from threaded nylon post and remove the contact breaker and condenser
the distributor body. connections. Remove the clamping screw with its spring washer and
10 Carefully clean all parts of the distributor and examine for signs of plain washer, and remove the contact breaker assembly.
excessive wear. Inspect the cap for signs of “tracking” and burning and 4 To fit a new one-piece assembly, position the pivot of the contact
ensure that the carbon brush in the top of the distributor is in good breaker cam over the projection on the distributor baseplate, fit the
 Fig. 4.1 25D4 distributor components (Sec. 3)

Nut Clamp plate

Insulating sleeve Rotor arm
Insulating washer LT terminal
Fixed contact securing screw Spring contact Fig. 4.2 45D4 Exploded view of the distributor (Sec. 3)
Fixed contact /nsulating washer
Contact plate Capacitor Cap and rotor arm Shaft assembly with spacer

| Base plate securing screws

Base plate
Capacitor fixing screw
Thrust washer
Vacuum unit
LT lead
and steel washer
Terminal plate
! Cam securing screw Distributor body Baseplate assembly Condenser
Cam Ratchet spring Drive dog to shaft pin
! Contact set screw
Centrifugal spring Coil spring Drive dog and thrust washer
NQOAARGwWN Lubrication pad
Centrifugal weights Adjusting nut
Action plate and shaft Circlip
assembly Washer
Vacuum unit Driving dog
Ojl seal Securing pin
Clamp plate bolt
56 Chapter 4 ignition system

distributor connections on top of the spring and in contact with it, then
insert the flanged nylon bush so that the spring and the two connec-
tions are in contact with each other, but are insulated from the pin. Fit
the steel washer on top of the nylon bush, then screw on the nut.
7 Smear the surface of the cam with the special grease which may
have been supplied with the contact breaker assembly, otherwise use
engine oil.
8 Adjust the contact breaker gap as described in the following
Section.

5 Contact breaker points — adjustment

SS eee
1 Undo the two clips securing the distributor cap and lift the cap off.
Clean the inside of the cap with a dry cloth and inspect its surface for
signs of tracking. Check that the carbon brusly at the centre of the cap
protrudes by at least 7 in (6 mm).
2 Push the carbon brush in several times, to check that it moves
freely.
3. Remove the rotor arm, then prise the contacts open to check their
condition. If the contacts are burnt, or pitted, it is false economy not to
fit a new set.
4 If the condition of the points is satisfactory, turn the engine until
the contact breaker arm is on the peak of one of the cam lobes and
insert a 0.015 in (0.4 mm) feeler gauge between the points.
5 Slacken the contact plate clamp screw and adjust the contact
breaker gap by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole in the end of
the plate (Fig. 4.5). When the gap is such that the feeler gauge just fits
between the points, tighten the clamp screw and recheck the gap
(photo). :
6 By using a contact setting gauge (photo) it is possible to set the
gap without having to turn the engine because the sleeve which is put
over the cam ensures that the points are open regardless of the posi-
tion of the lobes. The special feeler gauges attached to the sleeve com-
pensate for the thickness of the sleeve (photo).

6 Condenser — removal and refitting

Fig. 4.3 The contact set (Dolomite) (Sec. 4) 1 The purpose of the condenser is to reduce the sparking which
occurs when the points open. Besides improving the efficiency of the
spark, the condenser prolongs the life of the contacts.
2 The condenser is fitted in parallel with the contact breaker points
and, if it develops a short circuit, will cause ignition failure by prevent-
ing the points from interrupting the low tension circuit.
3 If the engine becomes very difficuit to start, misfires intermittently
or the contact breaker points show signs of excessive burning, the con-
denser is suspect. Without access to specialist test equipment, the
easiest way of checking a suspect condenser is to replace it with a

Fig. 4.4 Contact and LT lead connections (Secs. 4 and 6)

spring washer and then the plain washer to the clamp screw, and
clamp the contact breaker assembly to the baseplate. Remove the nut
from the nylon pillar, fit the contact breaker and condenser leads on to
the pillar and on top of the eye of the spring, then re-fit the nut and
tighten it firmly. For contact breakers not having a contact screw (Fig.
4.3) pull the contact spring sideways and disengage the terminal plate
from the hooked end of the spring (Fig. 4.4).
5 When a one-piece contact breaker is not fitted, unscrew and
remove the terminal nut and the steel washer under its head. Remove
the flanged nylon bush and then the condenser and distributor connec-
tions from the terminal pin. Lift off the contact breaker arm and
remove the large fibre washer from its pivot pin. Remove the clamping
screw and lift off the contact plate.
6 When fitting a contact breaker assembly of the above type, it is Fig. 4.5 Adjusting contact breaker gap (Sec. 5)
important to ensure that the large fibre washer is fitted to the pivot pin
before the contact breaker arm is fitted. Make sure that there is an 1 Contact plate securing screw
insulating bush at the bottom of the terminal pin and that the eye of 2 Notch for adjusting the contact plate position
the spring has the bush fitted into it. Place the condenser and 3 Moving contact on the heel of operating cam
 Chapter 4 Ignition system 57

& 8iS

5.5 Measuring the contact breaker gap

5.6b Using the gauge to set the points

new one.
4 To remove the condenser from the distributor, remove the
distributor cap and the rotor arm. On the earlier models unscrew the
nut securing the leads to the moving contact and lift off the orange
wire. On later models which have the condenser lead cold-welded to
the terminal plate (Fig. 4.4) cut the orange wire off, then, in both cases,
remove the condenser clamping screw and lift the condenser out
(photo).
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. With the older
type of distributor, the tag on the end of the condenser lead can be
secured beneath the nut of the moving contact terminal post. On the
later type of distributor, the condenser wire should be soldered to the
contact plate.

7 Ignition timing — adjustment

Static timing
1 Check the setting of the contact breaker gap (Section 5).
2 Remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine, and
fit a suitable spanner to the crankshaft pulley nut.
3 Connect two pieces of insulated cable to the contacts of a 12 volt
bulb of low wattage, such as a side or tail light.
4 With the distributor cap removed, turn the engine until the notch Fig. 4.6 Crankshaft pulley notch and timing scale on timing case
in the crankshaft pulley is opposite the ‘O’ on the timing plate which cover. ‘O’ is TDC (Sec. 7)
58 Chapter 4 Ignition system

indicates that No. 1 piston is at the top of its cylinder. It is then

necessary to check that No. 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke and
this may be done either by turning the crankshaft pulley anticlockwise
about 60°, placing a thumb over the spark plug hole of No. 1 cylinder
and turning the engine clockwise to see if compression is felt as the
pulley notch approaches the ‘O’ mark. Alternatively, remove the rocker
box cover and check that one valve of No. 4 cylinder begins to open as
the engine is turned a few degrees back from the ‘O’ mark and the
other valve opens as the engine is turned a few degrees forward from
the ‘O' mark.
5 When this has been ascertained, look at the rotor arm and check
that the brass contact on it is pointing towards the contact to No. 1
plug lead, when the distributor cap is fitted (photo).
6 Remove the wire from the negative terminal of the coil (the white
wire with a black tracer) and connect one of the test lamp wires to this
wire. Connect the other wire of the test lamp to the positive terminal of
the battery.
7 Turn the crankshaft anticlockwise about 45° then turn it clockwise
until the pulley notch is opposite the 24 degrees BEFORE mark on the
timing plate.
8 Turn on the ignition switch and the test lamp should illuminate.
Rotate the crankshaft slowly and carefully clockwise and note the
position of the pulley notch against the scale when the lamp just goes 7.5 Position of rotor arm for No. 1 cylinder firing
out. If the timing is correct, this will be when the notch is opposite the
10 degrees BEFORE mark.
9 If asmall adjustment is required and the car has one of the earlier
type of distributors with a micrometer adjustment, turn the knurled nut
in the ‘A’ direction if the lamp goes out at less than 10 degrees
BEFORE and in the ‘R’ direction if the lamp goes out more than 10
degrees BEFORE.
10 If the micrometer adjustment is insufficient, and on distributors
without a micrometer adjustment, undo the clamp bolt on the base of
the distributor (Fig. 4.7).
11 Align the pulley notch with the 10 degrees BEFORE mark, turn the
distributor body anticlockwise until the lamp is illuminated, then rotate
it clockwise slowly and carefully until the lamp just goes out. Switch
the ignition OFF.
12 Tighten the clamp bolt with the distributor in the above position,
remove the test lamp and refit the wire on the negative terminal of the
ignition coil.
13 Refit the distributor cap and press on its fixing clips.

Dynamic timing
14 Connect the timing light according to the manufacturer's instruc-
tions and disconnect the pipe from the distributor vacuum unit.
15 Start the engine and let it run at a low idling speed while using the
timing light to see where on the timing scale the notch of the crank-
shaft pulley is when ignition takes place.
2
16 Make the necessary adjustment as in paragraph 9 of this Section Fig. 4.7 Distributor adjustments (Sec. 7)
for distributors having a micrometer adjustment, otherwise loosen the
distributor clamp bolt and turn the distributor body until ignition takes 1 Adjusting screw 3 Scale
place with the notch on the crankshaft pulley opposite the 10 degrees 2 Clamp plate bolt
BEFORE mark. If this adjustment is made with the engine running,
take great care that no part of the body, or any clothing, becomes
trapped by the fan or fan belt. and note the ignition point at idling speed.
17 After making the adjustment, switch the engine OFF, tighten the 5 Increase the engine speed and check that the ignition advances as
distributor clamp bolt and disconnect the timing light. engine speed increases and is retarded again as engine speed drops.
6 Reconnect the vacuum pipe and repeat the test, noting that there
Automatic advance — checking is a greater degree of advance when the vacuum pipe is connected. If
1 There is a tendency for petrol vapours from the carburettor to pass the amount of advance is not greater, the vacuum unit is defective and
down the vacuum pipe to the distributor and rot the diaphragm of the should be renewed.
vacuum unit. To test that the vacuum advance is working, disconnect
the vacuum pipe from the carburettor and take off the distributor cap.
2 Suck the end of the vacuum pipe and watch to see if the contact 8 Distributor — lubrication
breaker assembly rotates on sucking and returns to its former position
when suction is released. If this is the case, the vacuum automatic 1 It is important that the distributor cam is kept lubricated with a
advance is satisfactory. If there is no resistance to sucking and no leak slight smear of grease and that the rotor spindle and centrifugal
can be found in the pipe, the diaphragm is defective and the vacuum weights are lubricated with a thin oil such as Castro! Everyman.
unit must be renewed. 2 Every 6000 miles, remove the distributor cap and rotor arm and
3 The ignition advance with engine speed is controlled by centrifugal lightly smear the cam surface with genera! purpose grease. Apply two
weights and if the distributor is kept lubricated (Section 8) there is no or three drops of oil to the centre of the rotor spindle and let two or
reason why this should not work satisfactorily, but its operation cannot three drops fall between the rotor and contact plate and the casing and
be checked without a timing light. the contact plate, so that the centrifugal weights are iubricated (Fig.
4 To check the ignition advance with a timing light, connect the 4.8).
timing light in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, 3 Wipe away any surplus oil and grease, refit the rotor arm and refit
disconnect the vacuum pipe to the distributor then start the engine the distributor cap.
Measuring plug gap. A feeler gauge of the correct size (see Adjusting plug gap. The plug gap is adjusted by bending the
ignition system specifications) should have a slight ‘drag’ when earth electrode inwards, or outwards, as necessary until the
slid between the electrodes. Adjust gap if necessary correct clearance is obtained. Note the use of the correct tool

Normal. Grey-brown deposits lightly coated core nose. Gap Carbon fouling. Dry, black, sooty deposits. Will cause weak spark
increasing by around 0.001 in (0.025 mm) per 1000 miles and eventually misfire. Fault: over-rich fuel mixture. Check:
(1600 km). Plugs ideally suited to engine and engine in good carburettor mixture settings, float level and jet sizes; choke
condition operation and cleanliness of air filter. Plugs can be re-used after
cleaning

Oil fouling. Wet, oily deposits. Will cause weak spark and Overheating. Electrodes have glazed appearance, core nose very
eventually misfire. Fault: worn bores/piston rings or valve white - few deposits. Fault: plug overheating. Check: plug value,
guides; sometimes occurs (temporarily) during running-in ignition timing, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture
period. Plugs can be re-used after thorough cleaning (too weak). Discard plugs and cure fault immediately

Electrode damage. Electrodes burned away; core nose has Split core nose (may appear initially as a crack). Damage is self-
burned, glazed appearance. Fault: initial pre-ignition. Check: evident, but cracks will only show after cleaning. Fault: pre-
for ‘Overheating’ but may be more severe. Discard plugs and ignition or wrong gap-setting technique. Check: ignition timing,
remedy fault before piston or valve damage occurs cooling system, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture
(too weak). Discard plugs, rectify fault immediately
60 Chapter 4 Ignition system

9 Ignition coil and ballast resistor — description, removal and

refitting

The system is designed to ensure easy starting by using a 6 volt

coil, which under normal running conditions has a ballast resistor wire
in series with it so that the coil is not overloaded. During engine start-
ing, the ballast resistor wire is shorted out and battery voltage (which
is temporarily reduced to well below 12 volts by the load of the starter
motor) is fed to the coil directly. This produces a slight overload on the
ignition coil and ensures a good spark for starting.
1 To remove the ignition coil, pull off the two LT leads (Lucar con-
nectors) and the central HT lead.
2 Remove the two screws and washers that secure the coil, and lift
it away (photo).
3 Refitting is the reversal of removal, but itis important to ensure
that the two LT leads are connected to the correct terminals. On some
ignition coils the terminals are different so that the Lucar conneciors
cannot be connected to the wrong terminal. Where the terminals are
the same, ensure that the white/black wire goes to the negative — ter-
Fig. 4.8 Distributor lubrication points (Sec. 8) minal of the coil and the white/yellow wire to the positive + terminal
(photo).
1 Moving contact pivot post 4 Apertures to centrifugal timing
2 Cam spindle contro/
3 Cam exterior 10 Spark plugs and HT leads

1 An engine will not run correctly and efficiently unless the spark
plugs are of the correct grade, are clean and properly adjusted.
2 At intervals of 6000 miles (10000 km) the plugs should be
removed, cleaned and examined. If they ere in poor condition it is false
economy not to fit a new set.
3 If possible, get the plugs cleaned and tested by a garage having a
spark plug cleaning machine, otherwise clean them with a wire brush
and adjust the plug gap to 0.025 in (0.64 mm).
4 \f new plugs are required, fit the correct type (see Specifications)
and check that their gap is set at 0.025 in before fitting them.
5 The appearance of the spark plugs gives a lot of information about
the operation and condition of the engine, and ideally the nose of the
centre electrode shculd be covered with a light tan to greyish brown
deposit indicating correct mixture and an engine in good condition.
6 If the nose of the insulator is white and the central electrode is
burned away, it is likely that the mixture is too weak, and a sooty black
appearance indicates too rich a mixture. A black and oily plug indicates
that the bores are worn and oil consumption is excessive (see the
illustrations on page 59).
7 Plug leads require no routine attention other than being kept clean
and the plug leads, plug caps and the outside of the plug porcelain
insulator should be wiped with a clean dry cloth at intervals of no more
than 6000 miles. During damp misty weather, it is particularly

9.3 Ensure that the two LT leads are connected to the correct
terminals
Fig. 4.9 Distributor HT lead connections (Sec. 10)
 Chapter 4 Ignition system 61

important to have clean plug leads and insulators because under these 3. If the engine does not spin normally, but the battery is known to
conditions, dirt and moisture will result in the engine failing to start. be in good condition, check the battery terminals for cleanliness and
8 If the plug leads are removed, be careful to refit them on the same tightness.
plug. The rotation of the distributor rotor is anticlockwise and the firing 4 lf the engine fails to start and it is proved that the LT circuit is
order is 1 —- 3-— 4-2 (Fig. 4.9). satisfactory, remove one of the spark plugs and with its HT lead
attached, lodge it so that the plug casing is in contact with the engine
and spin the engine to see if there is a spark at the plug. If there is no
11 Fault diagnosis — ignition system spark, check that the carbon brush is in contact with the distributor
rotor. If this is so and there is no spark, the coil could be defective, but
There are two distinct symptoms of ignition faults. Either the this is a rare fault.
engine will not start or fire, or it starts with difficulty and does not run
normally. !f the starter motor spins the engine satisfactorily, there is
adequate fuel and yet the engine will not start, the fault is likely to be 13 Fault diagnosis — engine starts but misfires
on the LT side. If the engine starts, but does not run satisfactorily, it is
more likely to be an HT fault. 1 Bad starting and intermittent misfiring can be an LT fault such as
an intermittent connection of either the distributor, coil LT leads, or a
loose condenser clamping screw.
12 Fault diagnosis — engine fails to start 2 lf these are satisfactory, look for signs of tracking and burning
inside the distributor cap, then check the plug leads, plug caps and
1 If the starter motor spins the engine satisfactorily but the engine plug insulators for signs of damage.
does not start, first remove the petrol pipe to the carburettor, spin the 3. If the engine misfires regularly, it indicates that the fault is on one
engine and check that fuel is being pumped to the carburettor. Check particular cylinder. While the engine is running, grip each plug cap in
that the carburettor piston damper is not stuck, by pressing the pin on turn with a piece of clean dry rag to avoid getting an electric shock and
the underside of the carburettor body (Chapter 3, Section 7). pull the cap off the plug. If there is no difference in engine running
2 Check that none of the LT wires to the coil or to the contact when a particular plug lead is removed, it indicates a defective plug or
breaker have broken away from their connecting tags, then connect a lead. Stop the engine, remove the suspect plug and insert it in a
12v lamp across the LT terminals of the coil and see whether the lamp different cylinder. Repeat the test, to see whether the plug performs
flashes on and off as the engine spins. If it does, there is no LT fault. If satisfactorily in the new position and whether a different plug is
it does not, check the contact breaker, condenser and LT wiring. satisfactory in the position from which the suspect one was removed.
Chapter 5 Clutch
Contents

Clutch — removal, inspection and refitting Clutch slave cylinder — dismantling, examination and reassembly
Clutch master cylinder — dismantling, inspection and reassembly Clutch slave cylinder — removal and refitting
Clutch master cylinder — removal and refitting .............. Clutch system — bleeding
Clutch pedal support bracket — removal and refitting Fault diagnosis — clutch
Clutch release mechanism — removal, inspection and refitting General description
OaononN

Specifications

Borg and Beck

Single dry plate, diaphragm spring

7% in (184 mm)

Facing material 11046

ReleasenmechaniSitic set is cee re ee es or ef Girling hydraulic

Torque wrench settings ibf ft kgfm

Clutch to flywheel 11 1.5
Clutch bellhousing to engine 14 1.9
work has been done on any component of the hydraulic system. While
1. General description bleeding the system, it is important to ensure that the level of fluid in
the reservoir is never allowed to fall below the half way mark. Failure
The function of the clutch is to allow the engine to be run without to do this will allow more air into the system and necessitate starting
it being coupled to the transmission. It enables engine torque to be bleeding afresh.
applied to the gearbox progressively, so that the car can move off from 1 Obtain a clean and dry glass jam jar, plastic tubing at least 12 in
rest smoothly and it permits the gears to be changed easily, as car (300 mm) long and able to fit tightly over the bleed nipple of the slave
speed increases, or decreases. cylinder, a supply of Castrol Girling Brake Fluid and someone to help
The principal parts of the clutch assembly are the driven or friction (Fig. 5.1).
plate, the driving plate and cover assembly and the release bearing 2 Check that the master cylinder reservoir is full, and if not, fill it, and
assembly. When the clutch is engaged, the driven plate, which is cover the bottom inch (25 mm) of the jar with hydraulic fluid.
splined to the gearbox input shaft, is sandwiched between the flywheel 3 Remove the rubber dust cap from the bleed nipple on the slave
and the driving plate by the pressure of the diaphragm spring and so cylinder and, with a suitable spanner, open the bleed nipple one turn.
engine torque is transmitted from the flywheel and driven plate to the 4 Place one end of the tube securely over the nipple and insert the
input of the gearbox. other end in the jar so that the tube orifice is below the level of the
When the clutch pedal is pressed, the piston in the master cylinder fluid.
pressurises the hydraulic fluid there and this pressure is transmitted to 5 The assistant should now pump the clutch pedal up and down
the slave cylinder, causing its piston to move and operate the clutch quickly until the air bubbles cease to emerge from the end of the
release lever, to which it is connected by a push rod. The release arm tubing. He should also check the reservoir frequently to ensure that the
and its bearing assembly are pushed against the centre of the hydraulic fluid does not drop too far, so letting air into the system.
diaphragm spring, releasing the pressure on the driven plate and so 6 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten the bleed nipple on the
disconnecting the drive between the engine and the gearbox. downstroke.
When the clutch pedal is released, the diaphragm spring forces the 7 Refit the rubber dust cap over the bleed nipple. Note: Never re-
pressure plate against the friction plate, which moves forward until it is use the fluid bled from the hydraulic system. Always use new hydraulic
against the flywheel. When the friction plate is again clamped between fluid which has been allowed to stand for 24 hours to top up the
the flywheel and the driving plate, the drive is re-connected. reservoir (photo).
As the friction linings on the clutch driven plate wear, the pressure
plate automatically moves nearer to the driven plate and the centre of
the diaphragm spring moves nearer to the release bearing and 3 Clutch slave cylinder — removal and refitting
decreases the release bearing clearance. Because wear is com-
pensated for automatically in this way, no clutch adjustment is The removal of the slave cylinder can be facilitated by driving the
required and no facility for it is provided. Car up on a ramp, or jacking up the front end and supporting it on axle
stands.
1 Before removing the slave cylinder, take off the master cylinder
2 Clutch system — bleeding cap and place a piece of thin polythene over the top of the master
cylinder. Screw down the cap tightly. This should prevent the fluid
Whenever any part of the clutch hydraulic system is dismantled, or having to be drained off prior to slave cylinder removal.
if the level of fluid in the reservoir is allowed to fall too far, air will enter 2 Disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the slave cylinder inlet and
the system. Because air can be compressed when pressure is applied ease it out of the way.
to it, the presence of air in the system makes the system spongy and 3 Unscrew the clamp nut sufficiently to puil the slave cylinder out of
less effective. Expelling air, or bleeding, must be carried out whenever its housing (Fig. 5.2).
 Chapter 5 Clutch 63

Fig. 5.2 Slave cylinder location (Sec. 3)

Fig. 5.1 Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system (Sec. 2) 1 Supply line 3 Clamp bolt and nut
2 Slave cylinder 4 Slave cylinder housing
1 Slave cylinder bleed nipple 3 Clean glass container
2 Plastic or rubber tubing

2.7 Topping up the clutch reservoir

4 Refitting is the reversal of the removal instructions. Remember to Fig. 5.3 Slave cylinder components (Sec. 4)
centralise the push rod in the housing before fitting the slave cylinder
in position. Line up the groove in the slave cylinder body with the 1 Bleed nipple cap 7 Seal
clamp bolt hole and tighten the clamp bolt. Reconnect the hydraulic 2 Bleed nipple 8 Piston
pipe line and bleed the system. 3 Clamp bolt 9 Circlip
4 Slave cylinder 170 Retainer
5 Spring 171 Dust cover
4 Clutch slave cylinder — dismantling, examination and 6 Clamp nut
reassembly
a rag over the open end so that when the piston is ejected, it does not
1 Clean the exterior of the slave cylinder using a dry non-fluffy rag. fly out.
2 Carefully ease back the dust cover (11), (Fig. 5.3) and lift it away, 4 Remove the piston seal using a non-metallic pointed rod or
together with the retainer (10). fingers. Do not use a metal screwdriver, as this could scratch the
3 Using a pair of pointed pliers, extract the circlip (9) and, if possible, piston. Note which way round the seal is fitted. Remove the spring (5).
shake out the piston and seal assembly (8,7). If a low pressure air jet is 5 Inspect the inside of the cylinder for score marks caused by
available, the piston and seal may be ejected using this method. Place impurities in the hydraulic fluid. If there are any found, the cylinder and
64 Chapter 5 Clutch

piston will require renewal.

6 If the cylinder is sound, thoroughly clean it out with fresh hydraulic
fluid.
7 The old rubber seal will probably be swollen and visibly worn.
Smear the new rubber seal with fresh hydraulic fluid and refit to the
stem of the piston ensuring that the smaller diameter end, or back of
the seal, is against the piston. Insert the spring ensuring the small end
is towards the piston.
8 Wet the piston and seal in fresh hydraulic fluid, and insert the
piston and seal into the bore of the cylinder. Gentiy ease the edge of
the seal into the bore so that it does not roll over.
9 Refit the circlip (10) and then the dust cover (11). The slave
cylinder is now ready for refitting.

5 Clutch master cylinder — removal and refitting

1 Wipe the top of the clutch master cylinder and remove the filler
cap. Place some polythene sheet over the reservoir to stop loss of fluid
once the hydraulic pipe is disconnected. Refit the cap (Fig. 5.4).
2 Working inside the car, extract the split pin (16), (Fig. 5.5); lift
away the plain washer and clevis pin (14) connecting the push rod to
the clutch pedal.
3 Wipe the area around the union on the master cylinder and
unscrew the union. Withdraw the pipe from the master cylinder.
4 Undo and remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the
master cylinder to the two studs on the pedal support bracket.
5 Very carefully manoeuvre the master cylinder from the bulkhead,
making sure that no hydraulic fluid is spilled on the paintwork as
hydraulic fluid acts as a solvent.
6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. It will be necessary Fig. 5.4 Master cylinder location (Sec. 5)
to bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section 2. 1 Master cylinder-to-slave-cylinder supply line
2 Reservoir
3 Master cylinder retaining nuts
6 Clutch master cylinder — dismantling, examination and
reassembly

If a new master cylinder is to be fitted, it will be necessary to

lubricate the seals before fitting to the car as they have a protective
coating when originally assembled. Remove the blanking plug from the
hydraulic pipe union seating. Ease back and remove the pushrod dust
cover so that clean hydraulic fluid can be injected at these points.
Operate the piston several times so that the fluid will spread over all
the internal working surfaces.
If the:master cylinder is to be dismantled after removal, proceed as
follows:
1 Ease back the pushrod cover (10), (Fig. 5.5) and remove the circlip
(13) so that the pushrod (11) and dished washer can be withdrawn.
This exposes the plunger (9) witn a seal (8) attached, and this must be
removed as a unit. The assembly is separated by lifting the retainer leaf
(7) over the shouldered end of the plunger. The seal (8) should then be
eased off, using the fingers only.
2 Depress the plunger retaining spring (6) allowing the valve stem
(3) to slide through the keyhole in the retainer, thus releasing the
tension in the spting.
3 Detach the valve spacer distance piece (5) taking care of the
spring dished washer (4) which will be found under the valve head.
4 Remove the valve seal (2) from the valve shank (3).
5 Examine the bore of the cylinder carefully for any signs of scores or
ridges and, if it is found to be smooth all over, new seals can be fitted.
If there is any doubt of the condition of the bore, then a new cylinder Reservoir
must be fitted. Seal
6 If examination of the seals shows them to be apparently oversize Valve
or swollen, or very loose in the plunger, suspect oil contamination in Spring washer
the system. Ordinary lubricating oil will swell these rubber seals, and if Distance piece
one is found to be swollen it is reasonable to assume that all seals in Spring
the clutch hydraulic system will need attention. Spring retainer
7 Thoroughly clean all parts in either Castrol Girling Cleaning Fluid Seal
or Industrial methylated spirits. Ensure that the by-pass ports are Piston
clean. Dust cover
8 All components should be assembled wet by dipping in clean So
oNPushrod
brake fluid. Fit a new valve seal (2) the correct way round so that the 12 Abutment plate
flat side is seating on the valve head. Place the spring dished washers Circlip
(4) with the dome against the underside of the valve head. Hold it in Clevis pin
position with the valve spacer distance piece (5) ensuring that the legs Washer
face towards the valve seal (2). Split pin
9 Refit the plunger return spring (6) centrally on the spacer, insert
 Chapter 5 Clutch 65

the retainer (7) into the spring and depress it until the valve stem There should be at least % in (0.8 mm) of lining material left clear of
engages in the keyhole of the retainer. the rivet faces, or the driven plate is not worth refitting. Check that the
10 Ensure that the spring is central on the spacer before fitting a new friction linings show no signs of heavy glazing or oil impregnation. If
plunger seal (8) onto the plunger with the flat face against the face of evident a new assembly must be fitted. If a small quantity of lubricant
the plunger. has found its way onto the facing, due to heat generated by the
11 Insert the reduced end of the plunger (9) into the retainer (7) until resultant slipping, it will be burnt off. This will be indicated by darken-
the leaf engages under the shoulder of the plunger, and press home ing of the facings. This is not too serious provided that the grain of the
the leaf. facing material can be clearly identified. Fit a new assembly if there is
12 Check that the master cylinder bore is clean and smear with clean any doubt at all. It is important that if oil impregnation is present, the
hydraulic fluid. With the plunger suitably wetted with hydraulic fluid, cause of the oil leak is found and rectified to prevent recurrence.
carefully insert the assembly into the bore with the valve end first. 8 Carefully inspect the driven plate and flywheel contact faces for
Ease the lips of the plunger seal carefully into the bore. signs of overheating, distortion, cracking and scoring: if any serious
13 Refit the pushrod (11) and the circlip (13) into the groove in the evidence of scoring exists, then it will probably be necessary to renew
cylinder body. Smear the sealing areas of the dust cover with Girling the flywheel; if you simply renew the driven plate, you could very soon
Rubber Grease and pack the cover (10) with the rubber grease so as to be faced with the same fault condition.
act as a dust trap. Fit the cover to the master cylinder body. The 9 Mount the driven plate onto the input shaft and check for
master cylinder is now ready for refitting to the car. looseness or wear on the hub splines. Also check the driven plate
cushion springs for damage or looseness.
10 Inspect the clutch throw-out lever assembly for wear, and obtain a
7 Clutch —- removal, inspection and refitting new lever assembly if evident (Section 8).
11 Inspect the release bearing for wear as indicated by roughness or
1 Remove the gearbox as described in Chapter 6. sloppiness between the inner and outer tracks.
2 Mark the clutch cover and flywheel so that the clutch may be 12 Refitting the clutch components is the reverse sequence to
refitted in its original position, unless it is to be renewed. The clutch removal, but the following points should be noted.
cover, pressure plate and diaphragm spring assembly must be 13 Smear a light coating of high melting point grease to the bore of
renewed as a unit if it is found to be faulty. Only the driven plate is able the input shaft.
to be renewed as a separate entity. 14 Refit the pressure and driven plate assemblies making sure that
< Progressively slacken the six pressure plate to flywheel cap head the alignment marks previously noted, or made, are correctly matched.
screws, a turn at a time, so releasing them evenly. As they are being 15 Place the clutch disc against the flywheel with the longer end of
released, check that the pressure plate flange is not binding on the the hub facing outwards away from the flywheel. On no account
dowels, otherwise it could fly off causing an accident. should the clutch disc be refitted with the longer end of the centre hub
4 Lift away the six screws and spring washers, followed by the cover facing in to the flywheel as on reassembly it will be found quite
assembly and driven plate. Note which way round the driven plate is impossible to operate the clutch with the friction disc in this position
fitted. The longer boss is facing towards the gearbox (photo). (photo).
5 Using stiff brush or clean rags, clean the face of the flywheel, the 16 Refit the clutch cover assembly loosely on the dowels. Refit the six
pressure plate assembly and the driven plate. Note: the dust is screws and spring washers and tighten them finger tight so that the
harmful to the lungs as it contains asbestos, so do not inhale it. clutch disc is gripped but can still be moved.
6 It is important that neither oil nor grease comes into contact with 17 The clutch disc must now be centralised so that when the engine
the clutch facings and that absolute cleanliness is observed at all and gearbox are mated, the gearbox input shaft splines will pass
times. through the splines in the centre of the driven plate hub.
7 inspect the friction surfaces of the driving plate and if worn, a 18 If the gearbox has been dismantled, centralisation can be carried
complete new assembly must be fitted. The linings are completely out easily by using the gearbox input shaft and inserting it through the
worn out when the faces of the rivets are flush with the lining face. clutch plate splines and locating its end in the crankshaft pilot bearing
(photo).
19 In the absence of an input shaft or a clutch aligning tool a mock
tool can be made with a piece of metal or wooden rod and adhesive
tape. Wind adhesive tape round one end of the rod until it is a snug fit
in the end of the crankshaft, then wind tape on to that part of the rod
which passes through the centre of the clutch plate, until a snug fit at
this point is achieved.

Fig. 5.6 Clutch components (Sec. 7)

1 Driven plate 6 Diaphragm spring

2 Pressure plate 7 Fulcrum ring 7.4 Removing the clutch
3 Clip and rivet 8 Clutch cover
4 Fulcrum ring 9 Cover bolt and washer
5 Rivet
66 Chapter 5 Clutch

7.15 Flywheel side marking on clutch plate

8.5 Separating the bearing from the sleeve 8.6 Pressing a new bearing into the old 8.7 Refitting the pins that secure the sleeve
sleeve plugs

20 With the clutch plate supported in place on the centraliser, fit the 3 Place the operating lever on top of a vice and with the aid of a
clutch cover assembly then insert the fixing screws. : sawn off nail drive out the pins (8) (photo).
21 Tighten the clutch screws firmly in a diagonal sequence to ensure 4 The retaining plugs (7) can then be partially levered out so as to
that the cover plate is pulled down evenly, and without distortion of release the bearing sleeve (9) and bearing (10), (photo).
the flange. The flywheel is prevented from turning by a spanner located 5 Place the old bearing in a vice and carefully lever off the bearing
between the teeth of the starter ring and a bellhousing stud. sleeve (photo).
22 Mate the engine and gearbox, bleed the slave cylinder if the pipe 6 Note that the raised edge of the bearing is away from the sleeve
was disconnected, and check the clutch for correct operation. and, with the aid of a block of wood and a vice, press the new bearing
onto the old sleeve (photo).
7 Refit the sleeve to the operating arm, tap back the retaining plugs,
8 Clutch release mechanism — removal, inspection and refitting and refit the pins. Replace the arm in the bellhousing, and finally drift
in the pin and lightly stake it in place (photo).
In order to remove the clutch release lever and bearing it is
necessary to remove the gearbox (Chapter 6), and the release
mechanism is then accessible inside the bellhousing. 9 Clutch pedal and support bracket — removal and refitting
1 Using a thin metal drift, drive the operating lever pivot pin out of
the bellhousing trunnions (1), (Fig. 5.7), (photo). 1 Working inside the car, remove the parcel shelf as detailed in
2 Remove the operating lever (3) complete with the release bearing Chapter 12.
and sleeve (10, 9), (photo). 2 Working in the engine bay unscrew and remove the two nuts and
 Chapter 5 Clutch 67

Fig. 5.8 Clutch pedal

Pedal pivot bolt

Bracket
Plain washer
Spring washer
Nut
Fig. 5.7 Clutch release lever and bearing (Sec. 8)
Bolt
Bush
7 Trunnion 6 Pushrod pivot pin
Pedal
2 Pivot pin 7 Plug
Rubber pad
DANDAAWNH™
3 Release lever 8 Retaining pin
70 Bush
4 Slave cylinder pushrod 9 Sleeve
11 Distance tube
5 = Trunnion 10 Bearing
72 Return spring
spring washers that secure the bracket to the bulkhead. pivot bolt (1). The pedal assembly (8), return spring (12) and distance
3 Working inside the car, extract the split pin, plain washer and the tube (11) may now be lifted away from the support bracket (2).
clevis pin that secures the master cylinder clutch rod to the pedal. 7 Check the bushes for wear by inserting the tube (11) and testing
4 Unscrew the bolt (6) (Fig. 5.8) and remove, together with the for excessive movement. If evident, the bushes may be drifted out and
spring washer (4), and plain washer (3). new bushes fitted.
5 Lift away the clutch pedal and support bracket from inside the car. 8 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Lubricate the bushes
6 To dismantle the assembly, unscrew the nut (5) and remove the and pivot bolts with Castrol LM Grease.

10 Fault diagnosis — clutch

Symptom Reason/s

Squealing noise when clutch is used Worn clutch release bearing.

Clutch slips Friction plate worn down to rivets

Oil on clutch facing.
Release arm travel insufficient.
Clutch plate splines in need of lubrication.

Gears difficult to engage, even though clutch pedal is depressed Air in hydraulic system.
fully Defective seal in master or slave cylinder.
Clutch plate facing sticky due to partially burnt oil.
Clutch plate splines in need of lubrication.
Diaphragm spring needs replacing.

Clutch judder Engine or gearbox rubber mounting defective.

Oil on friction faces of driven plate.
Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive
and automatic transmission
Contents

Part A — Three rail gearbox A

Rauiliectagnosisi ge af OOXe sisters ae sacen a Sla0 a)sacha gona Hae 12 Overdrive — dismantling, overhaul and reassembly ........... 30
GOs OO —CIGMEINIS ES eed oahee Save eens eee iie= erCeee 3 Pressure filter — removal, cleaning and refitting ............. 28
Gearbox — examination and renovation ................08. 6 Principlevofioperationues «a. ater ae ie ane een ce cae ee 22
GeanlOxe ieaS Sein Ol VAMMie wi sls orc an FeGero aa myaiauialta ca bug 7 Relief valve and dashpot assembly — removal, repair and refitting 26
Geaooxsremovaleancd inethtull@ins «ins a 5 oyna mae auger 2 Solenoid control valve — removal and checking ............. 25
Gearbox cover extension* removal, overhaul andreassembly ... 8 Theshivdrauliosvstemix. Seow eaeaaes eee ee ets ieee ee 23
Gearbox top cover — removal, overhaul andreassembly ....... 9
GererdtdeschiptlOimma mete ete: arya) amd. 4,5, a Meemmoeter eee ues 1 Part D — Automatic transmission
Input shaft — dismantling andreassembly ...............4.4. 5 Automatic transmission — notes and general description ...... 32
Mainshaft — dismantling and reassembly ................. 4 Automatic transmission — removal and refitting ............. So
Rear extension — removal, overhaul and reassembly .......... Ha Downshifticable= pressure testes. ns it ay Chennai mo meno 48
Reaeoseal—removallana refitting «.. 6.4 14 se eene ees anna 10 Downshift cable — remova!, refitting and adjustment ......... 34
Extensionrearoiliseali—=nenewall Sasumeps 8 eet =cet yey seas 40
Part B — Single rail gearbox Fault diagnosis — automatic transmission .............+.5. 51
ZaultmalagnosisesqeanbOx wae tee as ccna se de ot oe ties re 20 Erontibrake:band—adjustmemt. som cy ris occ ene erican 35
Gearbox — dismantling Front servo — removal, overhaul and refitting ............... 37,
Gearbox— reassembly Governor — removal, overhaul and refitting ................ 41
Gearbox removalramcdmenitting: a.4.06 a6 s+ see sae es oo ae 14 Hand turret lever —removal andrefitting .................. 47
Gearbox components — examination and renovation Rear brake bandi—adjastimentina meme e-c: ene nets nensae ees 36
General description Rear extension — removal and refitting .................+. si)
Input shaft — dismantling and reassembly ................. 17 Rear servo — removal, overhaul and refitting ............... 38
Mainshaft — dismantling and reassembly ................. 18 Restrictor valve and bypass pipe — removal, cleaning andrefitting 42
Road test to be carried out in conjunction with the fault diagnosis
Part C — Overdrive procedured(Section:5:1)eeyemceeete ke eras rice ae eee 50
RAUeclagnosis=-OVENGHIVE. a... e pata hs ae 6s ce Oe Si Selectomrod adjustments cuamem-martenencetrisite es acre cn arrears 43
GemeraaeScmDuOnumece cine een eth. talecnnia cae ere tig acto 21 Sitall Mestre ies ores ce weak cern ea, ok Pe cet eee oe se 49
Hydraulic pump non-return valve — removal, cleaning and refitting 27 Starter inhibitor/reverse lamp switch — removal and refitting .... 46
Oil pressure checks Transmission sump — draining and refilling ................ 44
Overdrive:-iremovalrand refitting .:.0..0..:0+0.s.s0..... 2S Transmission sump — removal and refitting ................ 45
SS ee eS ee

Specifications
eee

Three rail gearbox

NimpbemOnQearSe wre cic fw eee teins usmercaee ae 4 forward, 1 reverse

SVITCHTOMLESIME WEN ent ere ees teh Ph WC Pee a eee On all forward gears

Gear ratios

8.39 :1
13.63:1
15.51: 1
1.4 pints (0.8 litres)

Qilty 0 Creare ra ed siriatoula tsé Men kah Mayet Wan tece eet SAE 90EP gear oil
Laygear endfloat 0.007 to 0.013 in (0.18 to 0.33 mm)
Mainshaft 2nd and 3rd gear endfloat 0.000 to 0.006 in (0.00 to 0.15 mm)
FirsugedmmalgstantienGtlOdtwe sori oo -syqnucecears
cts Ricca eee 0.000 to 0.002 in (0.00 to 0.05 mm)
Synchromesh hub springs, axial release load .................. 19 to 21 |b (8.6 to 9.5 kg)
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 69
ee ee

Single rail gearbox (gearbox prefix YD in serial number)

ROUGE OLOORLSH, .w iy Ge Fe sats bee ber eos Eup am S 4 forward, 1 reverse

SVCHTO MOS turk tt cess, alii e 2.0 che con ate Leer” oon: On all forward gears

Gear ratios
UGYS) osaat oasnn Colo cark oh Cee ens ie he = ol | Oo (ea
UU iySorta a anes ohGen orcue one in ene ot eee ee (433e4
SNEXCCIKelis amsen ha SB Sab CRO on ee ce nee ee nT DNV Syor 4
TGS MIRE tether tr Ae biel Matt de ee et ee), Tele ey S41 18 a4
ROVERS Clim eee mw ane OOP AC RNLS chin time cy Mage 9 Oaks PTAC Seda dy 375291

Overall ratios
Omer he ote a we oN oc ode es oe Sac, Marne nr 5 er aid te aa es Seo Ore
UCL. paiten eines saad icg catAen hacesGhINE er a en. aaa 5.602 +1
SECON ME TENET ote tne nh ee, UR ARR. Se Be 825541
LFLFRE. os eda cetcaren a Coane cia I Sa Sa ne Ry a a 13:337)31
SENSI ISTE” len iif Feat he2 14.670 : 1

Road speed per 1,000 rpmintopgear ................. 16.4 mph (26.24 kph)

OiMICADACILY me ee ee oe ee SEN ee EO 14 pints (0.85 litres)

COUITS TONED Saag Sheet Sho SS As Rn a ena a | oA SAE 90EP gear oil

2nd and 3rd gear endfloaton bushes ................... 0.062 to 0.006 in (0.050 to 0.152 mm)

Enafloatvot busnes on shatters eon one eee 0.004 to 0-006 in (0-101 to 0.152 mm)

Washer sizes available

Colour code:
DIE HAY ayalproltonatone Sieoese aecohta a Omen Pe eae Fra oer CoM ar Oc ones eine 0.152 to 0.154 in (3.860 to 3.911 mm)
GTC Cr me ee etree ee hed eeu ectin cuit Sawada a) eaten 0.156 to 0.158 in (3.962 to 4.013 mm)
ACM ae I el Went (Sig ieee orcec a eR Ree eoble seELE 0.161 to 0.163 in (4.089 to 4.140 mm)
OPATICOS ecemeceriey stem gee SUS Led Me cts seaaviv cette alm! ciiesiyanid- seuhy esotclece Deane 0.165 to 0.167 in (4.191 to 4.241 mm)
Ye
| GNA) Mae a a aes Le noReN eS, 2,SG 6 H Newe'd GOR 0.169 to 0.171 in (4.293 to 4.343 mm)

Laygear needle roller retaining rings

Fitted depth:
Ltnriel ee ete ee, nee Seno, Sa Sec ist apatterusr ibang cee een 0.840 to 0.850in (21.336 to 21.590 mm)
OCTCL erA Te ee ee te Funes Poe Ribweee Womens! as he 0.010
to 0.015 in (0.254 to 0.381 mm)

Centre bearing to circlip endfloat ...................... 0.000 to 0.002 in (0.000 to 0.050 mm)

Washer sizes available

Colour code:
PTT Men eee Feo i tr a oh rues Sue Orie maetnss SB 4, Sie Rae 0.119to 0.121 in (3.022 to 3.073 mm)
GG ripe oo ha We Benes a Meee ante te ae Be in (3.123 to 3.173 mm)
0.122to 0.124
Bi pan a Cee re tks, ery ane he arias ag avis Osae ea cestale ete oe 0.125 to 0.127
in (3.198 to 3.248mm)
ORAM nye syaie cine 0 1 Ae fee tyMEd teeg, DCM eo an Oana err cee in (3.273 to 3.323 mm)
0.128to 0.130

Reverse idler gear bush-— fitted depth .................. Flush to 0.010 in (0.254 mm) below gear face

Overdrive

TRY OVS Mee Woke o boo 6 oe Grate thts Ono CRN nec mac aoeA meee roarae GKN (Laycock), type J

PCa ATIVe TALION eit Site See ee tarp os 0.797 :1

Automatic transmission

Gear ratios
"(OY ° GAP BiteroOo. oi.g Ora yO Rog IEnO) OfGeREED Ora hcl aCe scch Re CRM IaR dave
Se eave ee ree ee eee eae Ola ar eo ues 6 a aca te (eeley S|
SGD on a Oe alee ORME cn Alo bolt oh a cighe Boner ct ieee prey meer aer ecm Zool
PGVETSC ued Mactan ee AUR aca RS PESO Oe SMeca dase ot sae ZO

COnVETtOLTeGUCTION MT RE er toe as
trainee Infinitely variable between 1:1 and 1.91 : 1
70 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

Gearshift speeds

Throttle Closed Light Part Kick-

Throttle Throttle Throttle down

Selection 1 2 D D D D D 1 D 2) 2;
Shift 2-1 1-2 2-3 3-2 1-2 2-3 3-2 2-1 3-1 1-2 2-1
Carspeedmph 24-30 7-10 12-15 27-34 30-37 47-54 23-31 27-34 (30°37 17-26
km/h 38-48 11-16 19-24 43-55 48-59 75-86 36-49 43-55 48-59 28-40

Oil capacity
Without oil cooler 10.5 pints (6 litres)
With oil cooler 11.5 pints (6.5 litres)

Transmission fluid type Type F automatic transmission fluid "

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft kgf m

Three rail gearbox
Gearbox extension setscrews 20 2.8
Filler plug 25 155
Gearbox case to clutch housing 34 4.7
Selector fork attachment 10 1.4
Top cover attachment 8 We.

Single rail gearbox

Flywheel housing retaining bolts 28 to 30 3.9 to 4.1
Rear extension to gearbox bolts 18 to 20 2.4 to 2.7
Drive flange nut 90 to 100 12.4 to 13.8

Overdrive
Adaptor to gearbox 9 1-22
Overdrive to adaptor 7 1.0
Overdrive to rear engine mounting 25 SS
Rear engine mounting attachment 38 5.2
Steady strap to overdrive unit ZO 2.8

Automatic transmission
Engine to transmission attachment 15 to 20 2aVtOr2eo
Rear engine mounting (2 in set screw) 38 to 48 5.2 to 6.6
Engine mounting (rear) (% in bolt) 15 to 20 PLi\ toy 7248)

Part A — Three rail gearbox

and propeller shaft. The bottom of the gearbox casing houses a drain
1. General description plug, while a combined filler/level plug is on the side of the casing.

The gearbox is a constant mesh four forward and one reverse

speed unit, with synchromesh fitted on all four forward speeds. 2 Gearbox — removal and refitting
The input shaft and mainshaft are mounted in the casing on ball
bearings and locate into each other on needle rollers. The gearbox can be removed with the engine, as described in
The laygear cluster revolves on needle roiier bearings on the fixed Chapter 1, or, alternatively, as a separate entity. This latter method is
layshaft; endfloat is controlled by a thrust washer at each end fitted relatively straightforward and may be used if only the gearbox requires
between the casing and the laygear. With the exception of reverse, all attention.
gears are helically cut. If the gearbox rear extension, or the selector mechanism, is faulty,
Gear selection is by three forks running on three separate rails. The there is no need to remove the gearbox completely, because these
forks are held in their neutral and selection positions by spring loaded units can be dealt with separately.
detent balls housed in each fork, which engage in grooves in the rails. 1 The vehicle should be driven onto a ramp or be jacked up and
The selector lever operates the forks through a remote control supported on axle stands or blocks. The maximum clearance between
which permits a short, positive action lever to be used. the car and the ground should be obtained to provide the easiest
The gearbox input shaft is splined and it is onto these splines that possiole access.
the clutch driven plate is located. The gearbox end of the input shaft is 2 Disconnect the battery, take out the carpets and drain the gearbox
in constant mesh with the laygear cluster, and the gears formed on the oil.
laygear are in constant mesh with the gears on the mainshaft with the 3 In order to remove the gearbox tunnel cover, it is necessary to
exception of the reverse gear. The gears on the mainshaft are able to remove the front seats and the parcel shelf first; details of these opera-
rotate freely which means that when the neutral position is selected tions are given in Chapter 12.
the mainshaft does not rotate. 4 Remove the reinforcement tube that straddles the tunnel, by
When the gear change lever moves the synchromesh unit outer undoing the two set screws that secure it. Consideration should be
sleeve via the selector fork, the synchromesh cup first moves and fric- given to carrying out operations 3 to 8 before the car is jacked up,
tion caused by the conical surfaces meeting takes up initial rotational dependent on what method of jacking is being used.
movement until the mainshaft and gear are both rotating at the same 5 Unscrew the gear lever knob after loosening the locknut.
speed. This condition achieved, the sleeve is able to slide over the dog 6 Remove the rubber grommet from the base of the gear level by
teeth of the selected gear thereby giving a firm drive. The synchromesh releasing the four screws that secure the clamp ring and grommet to
unit inner hub is splined to the mainshaft and because the outer sleeve the structure.
is splined to the inner hub, engine torque is passed to the mainshaft 7 Pull off the handbrake lever grip.
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 71

|
8 Remove the fifteen bolts and four nuts (set screws on early
models) that secure the tunnel to the floor. Carefully break the seal
between the tunnel and the floor and lift the tunnel cover over the gear
lever.
9 From beneath the car, scratch a mating mark across the propeller
shaft front flange and the mainshaft drive flange, then undo the four
nuts and bolts that connect them.
10 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox by undoing
the knurled retaining cap.
11 Slacken the pinch bolt that secures the slave cylinder to its
housing, and withdraw the cylinder. There is no need to disconnect the
hydraulic pipe to the cylinder, but ensure the complete assembly is
tucked out of the way so that it will not hamper gearbox removal from
the car.
12 Place a support beneath the engine sump ready io take the engine
weight when the gearbox is removed. A jack with a block of wood
between the jack head and sump will suffice.
13 Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the support bracket bolted to
the gearbox, then disconnect the inner end of the bracket from the
gearbox, mounting plate (photo).
14 Remove the nut and washer that secures the gearbox mounting
bracket to the structure.
15 Remove the bellhousing-to-engine plate bolts that are accessible
from beneath the car; the starter motor lower mounting bolt should 2.13 Disconnecting inner end of exhaust pipe support bracket
also be removed. The remaining bellhousing retention bolts can be
removed from inside the car, as can the gearbox rear mounting
bracket.
16 Working in the engine bay, remove the starter motor upper mount-
ing bolt. Remove the starter motor but note very carefully the number
of spacers and distance pieces used.
17 The gearbox is now free to be manoeuvered out from inside the
car. It may be necessary to raise the rear of the engine slightly to
facilitate removal. Never allow the weight of the gearbox to hang on
the clutch plate splines.
18 Refitting of the gearbox is the reverse of the removal procedure,
but the following points should be borne in mind:

a) The clutch friction disc must be properly centred if the clutch

assembly has been disturbed (Chapter 5 refers).
b) The propeller shaft should be refitted so that the mating
flanges line up in the same position.
c) The same warning given in paragraph 17 also applies during
reassembly: the gearbox must not be allowed to hang
unsupported on the splines of the input shaft.
d) When the gearbox is in position, refit the locating bolt and nut;
this will assist in replacing the remaining nuts and bolts.
e) Do not forget to refill the gearbox with oil.

3 Gearbox — dismantling

1 Before any dismantling begins, thoroughly clean off the gearbox Fig. 6.1 Gearbox and bellhousing securing bolts (Sec. 2)
exterior with paraffin or a proprietary solvent. This will keep the
working area clean and minimise the possibility of dirt and grit being 1 Slave cylinder pinch bolts 4 Special locating nut
transferred from the exterior to the interior. Undo the four nuts and 2 Mounting bracket nut 5 Starter motor lower mounting
spring washers which hold the remote control extension in place and 3 Bellhousing nuts bolt
lift off the extension and joint washer.
2 Undo the eight bolts which hold the gearbox cover to the top of
the gearbox, and lift off the cover. 12 Gently drive the layshaft out of the gearbox — preferably with a
3 The peg bolt which retains the speedometer drive housing is then length of rod, 0.655 in (16.6 mm) in diameter and 6.5 in (165 mm)
unscrewed. long. This rod will then retain the needle roller bearings in the bore of
4 Pull the housing complete with the speedometer drive pinion out the laycluster. The layshaft will have to be driven out from the front of
of the gearbox extension. the box since there is a restraining pin at the rear of the box. Now
5 Place the mainshaft drive flange in a vice and undo the nut and allow the laycluster to drop out of mesh with the mainshaft gear, into
spring washer which retains it in place. the bottom of the gearbox.
6 Pull the mainshaft flange from the mainshaft. 13 With a soft metal drift carefully tap out the input shaft, complete
7 Undo the bolts which retain the aluminium alloy extension to the with bearings, forwards from inside the gearbox.
rear of the gearbox. Note the position of the longer bolt. 14 As soon as the bearing is clear of the gearbox casing lift the input
8 Remove the extension by tapping the underside of the mounting shaft out.
lug with a rawhide hammer. Lift the extension off the gearbox, 15 Turning to the mainshaft, remove the centre bearing circlip and
together with the joint gasket. washer, and drive the mainshaft forwards into the gearbox,
9 Then lift the rear idler gear from the reverse gear shaft. approximately 14 in (32 mm).
10 From inside the bellhousing undo the bolts which hold the 16 Next, drive the bearing out of the casing from the inside. The
bellhousing to the front of the gearbox. mainshaft can then be lifted out from the inside of the casing. Place it
11 Separate the bellhousing from the gearbox and place the former on one side for dismantling later.
on one side. Note the single bolt with the copper washer. 17 Raise the laygear so it is in its normal position and measure the
72 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

Fig. 6.2 Exploded view of gearbox external components

1 Joint washer 10 Gearbox extension assembly 18 O-ring

2 Drain plug 11 Bearing 79 Bolt
3 Slave cylinder housing 12 Oil seal 20 Spring washer
4 Locknut 13 Thrust bearing 21 Setscrew
§ Spring washer 14 Speedo driven gear assembly 22 Pinchbolt, slave cylinder
6 Setscrew 15 O-ring 23 Dowel, top cover locating
7 Joint washer 16 Speedometer drive housing 24 Screwed plug — oil filler level
8 Spring washer assembly 25 Gearbox case
9 Setscrew 17 Oil seal

endfloat with a feeler gauge. The laygear

is then free to be lifted out. 20 The gearbox is now stripped right out and must be thoroughly
18 Remove the reverse gear shaft by undoing the peg bolt and spring cleaned. The component parts of the gearbox should be examined for
washer which holds it in place. wear, and the laygear, input shaft and mainshaft assemblies broken
19 Finally undo the nut and bolt, and remove them together with the down further as described in the following Section.
operating lever.
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 73

Fig. 6.3 Gearbox components (Sec. 3) Fig. 6.4 Reverse idler shaft removal (Sec. 3)

71 Gear lever 5 Drive flange retaining nut 1 Idler shaft retaining bolt 3 Distance piece
2 Bellhousing 6 Drive flange 2 Idler shaft
3 Top cover bolts 7 Extension securing bolt
4 Top cover extension 8 Rear extension

15 Fit the two halves of the split collar into the groove in the
4 Mainshaft — dismantling and reassembly mainshaft and push the 1st gear hard up against the collar (photo).
16 Fit the synchromesh cup onto the cone of the 1st gear (photos).
1 The component parts of the mainshaft are shown in Fig. 6.5. 17 Slide the 1st and 2nd gear synchromesh hub and reverse gear
2 Lift the 3rd and 4th gear synchromesh hub and operating sleeve sleeve on the mainshaft and engage it with the synchromesh cup
assembly from the end of the mainshaft. (photo).
3 Remove the 3rd gear synchromesh cup. 18 Fit the 2nd gear synchromesh cup to the synchromesh hub
4 Using a smal! screwdriver ease.the 3rd gear retaining circlip from (photo).
its groove in the mainshaft. Lift away the circlip. 19 Fit the 2nd gear washer onto the end of the mainshaft splines so
5 Lift away the 3rd gear thrust washer. that the oil groove face is towards the front of the mainshaft (photo).
6 Slide the 3rd gear and bush from the mainshaft followed by the 20 Slide the 2nd gear bush onto the mainshaft (photo).
thrust washer. Note this is a selective thrust washer. 21 Fit the 2nd gear onto the bush on the mainshaft and engage the
7 Detach the 2nd gear synchromesh cup from inside the 2nd and taper with the internal taper of the synchromesh cup (photo).
1st gear synchromesh hub and lift away. 22 Fit the 2nd and 3rd gear selector washer (photo).
8 Slide the 2nd and 1st gear synchromesh sleeve assembly from the 23 Slide the 3rd gear bush onto the mainshaft (photo).
mainshaft. Recover the 1st gear synchromesh cup (photo). 24 Fit the 3rd gear onto the bush on the mainshaft, the cone facing
9 Using a small electricians’ screwdriver lift out the two split collars the front of the mainshaft (photo).
from their groove in the mainshaft. 25 Slide the 3rd gear thrust washer onto the mainshaft splines
10 Slide the 1st gear and thrust washer from the mainshaft (photo). (photo).
11 The mainshaft is now completely dismantled. Before reassembly, 26 Ease the 3rd gear retaining circlip into its groove in the mainshaft.
the inspection and checking of tolerances detailed in Section 6 should Make quite sure it is fully seated (photo).
be carried out. If it is considered necessary to remove the speedometer 27 Fit the 3rd gear synchromesh cup onto the cone of the 3rd gear
drive gear, remove the circlip and tap off the drive gear; recover the (photo).
locking ball. 28 Slide the 3rd and 4th gear synchromesh hub and operating sleeve
12 Before reassembly, ensure that all component parts are thoroughly assembly and engage it with the synchromesh cup (photo).
cleaned. 29 To refit the speedometer drivegear, turn the mainshaft until the
13 Place the thrust washer against the back face of the 1st gear. ball detent is uppermost, refit the ball and slide the drive gear over the
14 Slide the 1st gear and the thrust washer onto the mainshaft. ball. Refit the circlip.

4.8 Removing 1st/2nd synchro sleeve 4.10 Remove the 1st gear and thrust 4.16 Locate the split collars
assembly washer
74

Fig. 6.5 Exploded view of mainshaft components (Sec. 4)

Flange and stone guard Synchro cup (baulk ring) Washer

Locknut Split collar Synchro sleeve assembly
Washer 1st speed gear Ball
Synchro cup (baulk ring) Washer Spring
Synchro cup (baulk ring) Speedometer driven gear (nylon) Shim
Circlip Ball Mainshaft
3rd speed gear Circlip Bearing, mainshaft
Bush 3rd speed gear Ball bearing Snap ring
Bush 2nd speed gear
DOANDAAARWHR Spring Washer
710 Gear 2nd speed Shim Circlip
11 Washer Synchro cup (baulking) Washer
1712 Synchro sleeve assembly Thrust washer
4.17a The 1st synchro cup must be in an 4.17b The 1st gear, split collars and 4.18 Align the ‘large’ splines
unworn condition synchro cup on the mainshaft

4.20 Oil groove to the front of the

mainshaft

4.23 A selective washer — 2nd and 3rd gear 4.24 The 3rd gear bush

4.25 Note the direction of the cone 4.26 3rd gear thrust washer 4.27 Make sure that it seats fully
76 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

2 Examine the gearwheels for excessive wear and chipping of teeth.

Renew them as necessary. If the laygear endfloat is above the per-
mitted tolerance of 0.007 to 0.013 in (0.18 to 0.33 mm) the thrust
washers must be renewed. New thrust washers will almost certainly
be required on any car that has completed more than 50000 miles
(80000 km). It is permissible to rub down the backs of the thrust
washers to achieve the correct tolerance. The copper face must never
be rubbed down (Fig. 6.6).
3 Examine the layshaft for signs of wear where the laygear roller
bearings bear on it, and check the laygear on a new shaft for worn
bearings.
4 The three synchroniser rings are bound to be worn and it is false
economy not to renew them. New rings will improve the smoothness
and speed of the gearchange considerably.
5 The needle roller bearing and cage located between the nose of
the mainshaft and the annulus in the rear ofthe input shaft is also
liable to wear, and should be renewed.
6 Examine the condition of the three ball bearing assemblies, one on
the input shaft, one on the mainshaft and the other in the tail of the
gearbox extension. Check them for noisy operation, looseness between
the inner and outer races, and for general wear. Normally they should
be renewed when a gearbox is rebuilt.
7 Examine the mainshaft bushes and fit them on the mainshaft to
4.28 Another synchro cup (3rd)
check for overall endfloat.
8 Fit the inner thrust washer onto the mainshaft, then one of the
bushes, the washer, the remaining bush, the thrust washer, and finally
the circlip. With a feeler gauge measure the endfloat between the
inner thrust washer and the adjacent bush. This should be between
0.000 and 0.006 in (0.00 to 0.15 mm). If outside these figures, experi-
ment with alternative thrust washers until the endfloat is correct. (Fig.
6.8)
9 Measure the endfloat of the 2nd and 3rd gears on their bushes.
The correct end float should be 0.002 to 0.006 in (0.05 to 0.15 mm).
Either fit new bushes, or lap the old ones to achieve inis figure.
10 Fit the split collars, the first speed gear, the thrust washer, the
bearing (or a distance tube of the same size to simulate the bearing)
the distance washer and a circlip to the mainshaft. Measure the end-
float and adjust it to the correct limits of 0.000 to 0.002 in (0.00 to
0.05 mm) by selectively fitting the right width washer.
11 To dismantle the synchromesh units, first wrap a length of clean
rag completely round a unit and then pull off the outer synchro sleeve.
The cloth will catch the spring loaded balls and springs which are
bound to fly out. Compare the length of the old springs with new ones
and renew any that are of incorrect length or are worn. Note that an
interlock plunger and ball is fitted to the second speed synchromesh
hub.
12 The remote control gearchange is likely to be worn and this is
dealt with in Section 8.
4.29 Installing 3rd/4th synchro hub

5 Input shaft + dismantling and reassembly

1 Place the input'shaft splined end upwards in a vice and, with a pair
of circlip pliers, remove the circlip which retains the ball bearing in
place. Lift away the spacer.
2 With the bearing resting on the top of open jaws of the vice and
splined end upwards, tap the shaft through the bearing with a soft
faced hammer. Note that the offset circlip groove in the outer track of
the bearing is towards the front of the input shaft.
3 Lift away the oil flinger.
4 Remove the caaed needle roller bearing from the centre of the rear
of the input shaft if it is still in place.
5 Remove the circlip from the bearing outer track and transfer to the
new bearing.
6 Refit the oil flinger and with the aid of a block of wood and vice tap
the bearing into place. Make sure it is the right way round.
7 Finally refit the spacer and bearing retaining circlip.

6 Gearbox — examination and renovation

1 Carefully clean and then examine all the component parts for
Fig. 6.6 Checking layshaft endfloat (Sec. 6)
general wear, distortion, slackness and fit, and damage to machined
faces and threads. 1 Inserting feeler gauge between l/ayshaft gears and thrust washer
 Fig. 6.7 Exploded view of input shaft, layshaft and reverse idier shaft components (Sec. 5)

Spring washer Layshaft dowel Bolt, reverse idler

Spindle Layshaft Circlip
Distance piece Needle roller Snap ring
Reverse idler gear assembly Needle roller Oil thrower
Bush Thrust washer Constant pinion shaft (input)
Reverse operating lever Retaining ring Needle roller bearing
assembly Countershaft cluster gear Bearing
Retaining ring Locknut Washer
Thrust washer Fulcrum, reverse operating lever
78 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

7 Gearbox — reassembly
oS
1 Screw the pivot pin into the reverse actuator until one full thread
protrudes through the lever boss. Fit the actuator and pivot pin into the
gear casing. Fit the plain washer and tighten the nut.
2 \f the needle rollers were removed from the layshaft, refit them,
holding them in with thick grease and finally retaining them in position
using a tube of the dimensions given earlier. Fit the front thrust washer
into place in the casing so that its tag locates in the recess provided.
Hold it in place with thick grease and centralise it by partially entering
the layshaft. Lower the layshaft gear cluster assembly into position and
press in the layshaft so that it ejects the tube and supports the gear
cluster (photos).
3. Fit the rear thrust washer correctly into place and pass the layshaft
through it. Recheck the layshaft endfloat in a¢écordance' with Section
6.2. Once the endfloat is satisfactory, press back the bearing retaining
tube and allow the cluster to slide to the bottom of the casing.
4 Insert the mainshaft into the gearbox from the top. Hold it parallel
in its approximate position and then press the centre bearing over the
mainshaft until it can be drifted in position in the casing bearing
housing (photos).
5 _|t will probably be necessary to place a lever in the position shown
in this photo to support the mainshaft spigot when the bearing is
drifted in position.
6 Fit the fourth gear synchromesh baulk ring onto the end of the
input shaft.
7 Lubricate the needle roller bearing and fit it into the end of the
input shaft (photo).
8 Fit the input shaft to the front of the gearbox casing, taking care to
engage the baulk ring with the synchromesh hub (photo).
9 Tap the input bearing until the circlip is hard up against the front
gearbox casing. Check that the mainshaft bearing outer track snap-ring
is hard up against the rear casing. Refit the washer and circlip.
10 Invert the gearbox. Fit the pin into the drilled hole in the layshaft
and insert the layshaft from the rear of the casing through the layshaft
gear assembly. This will push out the previously inserted tube. Line up
the layshaft pin with the groove in the rear face of the casing and push
the layshaft fully home (photos).
11 Fit the reverse gear shaft into the casing, align the locating hole
with the hole in the casing and insert the dowel bolt and washer. Insert
the idler and its bush over the shaft with the operating groove on the
inside (photos).
12 Carefully engage the pin on the lower arm of the operating lever,
with the groove cut on one side of the reverse gear.
13 Finally push the reverse gear fully home. TAKE GREAT CARE
that the reverse gear does not move forwards and disengage with the
operating lever when the rear extension is being fitted.
14 If the gearbox is being rebuilt it is false economy not to renew the
rear oil seal and ball race. Mount the rear extension in a vice and with
the aid of a drift, drive out the oil seal and ball race from inside the
extension.
15 Carefully tap a new bearing into place ensuring it is square in the
bore (photos).
16 Then tap the oil seal into place with the sealing lip facing forward
(photo).
17 Fit a new gasket to the rear face of the gearbox casing, and a new
distance washer over the neck of the mainshaft so that it will be
located behind the bearing in the rear extension (photo).
18 Carefuily lower the rear extension into position, tapping it home
with a soft headed hammer, if necessary.
19 Refit the bolts and washers securing the extension in place.
20 Refit the mainshaft drive flange: fit and tighten the locknut and
washer that holds it in place (photo).
21 Refit the speedometer drive gear assembly making sure the two
O-rings are in position in their grooves and that the hole for the lock
Fig. 6.8 Checking gearbox tolerances (Sec. 6)
bolt and washer is in line with the hole in the casing.
22 Fit a new gasket to the bellhousing/gearbox flange. If a new gasket
1 Measuring the endfloat of the 2nd and 3rd gears to their bushes is not to hand cut a new gasket from stiff brown paper. Lay the paper
2 Checking bush to thrust washer endfloat over the bellhousing endface, and holding the paper taut, make a
3 Checking 1st gear bearing endfloat series of rapid gentle taps with a ball headed hammer. This will soon
4 Discarded bearing inner race cut the paper to the desired shape. Proper gasket paper is even better
than brown paper.
23 Offer up the bellhousing to the gearbox, and fit and tighten the
bottom bolt and copper washer (photo).
24 Select first gear on the top cover and the gearbox.
 7.4A Support the casing on a block of wood

as
bis

7.4B Note the position of the large circlip

7.10B The pin in its groove 7.11A Drilled end first 7.11B This is the dowel bolt. Note the shaped
end
80 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

7.15A Face upwards for the bearing coding 7.15B Drive it in like this

7.17 Fitting distance washer over the 7.20 Offer up the flange 7.23 Mating bellhousing to gearbox
mainshaft

25 Fit the top cover with a new gasket; assemble the remaining bolts washers securing the extension to the top cover.
and washers and fully tighten according to the specifications. 3 Lift off the extension and remove the joint washer.
26 Fill the gearbox with the specified quantity and grade of oil. 4 Certain items in the remote control gearchange are prone to wear
and these should always be renewed when the gearbox is being over-
hauled. The items concerned are smali and relatively inexpensive and
8 Gearbox cover extension — removal, overhaul and reassembly comprise the plate, reverse gear spring, a smaller spring, the nylon ball,
the bonded rubber bush and washers, and the bush and washers.
The gearbox cover extension is normally removed when evidence 5 To renew the items on the gear lever, press down and twist off the
suggests that there is something wrong with gear selection rather than cover and remove the shield plate and larger spring (photo).
the gears themselves. 6 Undo and remove the nut and bolt which holds the gear lever to
1 Remove the gear change lever as described in Section 2. the rear remote control shaft (photo).
2 Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the nuts and 7 Lift out the gear lever and place it in a vice, so the circlip which

Poll
8.5 Removing gearbox extension cover 8.6 Removing gear lever extension nut
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82 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

retains the small spring in place can be removed, followed by the the assembly (photo).
spring and nylon ball (photo). 15 If trouble has been experienced in selecting reverse gear, or it has
8 Fit a new nylon ball and spring and, with the aid of a spanner been possible to select reverse gear without depressing the gear lever,
which just fits over the gear lever, tap the circlip home until it rests in the reverse gear stop bolt should be adjusted. !f problems are still
its groove (photo). experienced after adjustment, the reverse stop boit and plate should be
9 Fit anew bush and washer to the end of the gear lever (photo). renewed.
10 Undo the nut and bolt which holds the rear remote control rod to 16 If the gearchange mechanism is still faulty after overhauling the
the fork (photo). extension, then the next step, detailed in Section 9, is to remove and
11 As can be seen in the photo the old bush (bottom) had completely service the gearbox top cover.
broken up. Press out the remains of the old bush.
12 This is most easily done in a vice using two sockets, one con-
siderably larger, and one fractionally smaller than the bush. Place the 9 Gearbox top cover — removal, overhaul and refitting
sockets either side of the shaft and use the small socket to push the
bush into the larger socket (photo). 1 Select top gear and remove the cover extension as detailed in
13 Carefully press the new bush into place and reconnect the rod to Section 8.
the shaft using new washers. Fit the gear lever to the extension and 2 Working in the engine bay, unscrew and remove the nine dolts
refit the nut and bolt which secures the gear change lever to the that secure the top cover. Note that the two longer bolts fit at the rear
remote control shaft (photo). of the cover, through the raised flange.
14 Refit the larger spring and the remaining components to complete 3 Remove the top cover and the joint gasket.

8.7 Lifting out gear lever with integral

components

8.10 Disconnecting remote control rod from

fork

a
8.13 Reconnecting gear lever to extension rod 8.14 Refitting larger spring and washers
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 83

4 Position the selector shafts so that they are as far forward as 10 Refit the threaded tapered lock bolts and refit the welch plugs,
possible and then drive out the welch plugs with a 1/8 in (3 mm) using sealing compound to give a leakproof joint.
punch positioned in turn through the small holes just inside the end of
the cover (photo).
5 Undo the threaded tapered locking bolts.
6 Push the reverse gear selector shaft out, followed by the other
two. The two interlock balls, plunger, three selector plungers, and
springs can then be removed. One spring and one plunger will emerge
from each of the three holes indicated in the photo.
7 Reassembly commences by fitting the springs and plunger in place
and then sliding the third and top selector shaft through the third and
top selector fork in the top cover. Press down the selector plunger to
allow the shaft to pass over it, and continue pushing the shaft home
until it is in the neutral position, ie., the plunger is resting in the centre
one of the three cut outs on the shaft.
8 Refit the reverse gear selector shaft and selector fork in the same
way, ensuring it too is in neutral.
9 Fit the interlock plunger to the first and second gear selector shaft,
and slide the shaft into place in the selector fork, noting that the shaft
also passes through the third and top selector fork. Before the shaft is
fully home, drop the two interlock balls in through the centre selector
shaft hole, so that one ball seats each side of the transverse bore
which connects the selector shaft bores. The centre selector shaft can
then be pushed further in until the plunger is resting in the centre of
the three cut outs and the interlock balls and plunger are held by the
shafts, (Fig. 6.11). Fig. 6.10 Exploded view of top cover (Sec. 9)

1 Cover 8 1st/2nd selector shaft

2 Welch plugs 9 3rd/4th selector shaft
3 Reverse selector 70 Interlock balls
4 1st/2nd selector 11 Interlock plunger
5 3rd/4th selector 12 Plungers
6 Taper locking pins 13 Springs
7 Reverse selector shaft

a! “*

9.4 Positioning the selector shafts forward

Fig. 6.11 Inserting the interlock balls (Sec. 9)

9.6 Showing the holes from which the springs and plungers will
1 Interlock balls
emerge
fe)4 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission
i

with a piece of wood interposed between the jack head and the sump
10 Rear oil seal — removal and refitting to spread the load.
4 Disconnect the exhaust support bracket from the front exhaust
In order to fit a new oil seal behind the drive flange, it is necessary pipe.
to disconnect the propeller shaft from the drive flange as described in 5 Remove the gearbox mounting bracket by releasing the nut and
washer that secures the rubber-mounted part of the bracket to the
Section 2.
1 Select first gear, then remove the drive flange locknut and washer. body sub-frame.
2 Using either a puller, or gently tapping the inside of the flange 6 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the rear extension.
right round the circumference, ease the flange out of the extension. 7 Remove the bolts and spring washers that secure the extension to
the gearbox rear face. Retain the gasket thus released. This operation
3. The rear oil seal will now be visible in the neck of the extension
and can be prised out with some blunt-faced tool to avoid scratching
will also release the gearbox upper mounting bracket from its rubber-
the inside face of the extension. mounted main bracket.
4 Refitting is the reversal of the removal instructions. Dip the new 8 Withdraw the extension over the mainshaft and place in a safe
seal in some light oil before reassembly and note that the protruding position.
lip on the seal faces the bearing. Ensure that the seal enters the exten- 9 The speedometer drive pinion can be removed from the mainshaft
sion squarely, then use a tubular drift of the correct diameter to drive by releasing the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers; then sliding the gear
the seal in fully. off the mainshaft; take care not to lose the detent ball.
10 To remove the rear roller bearing it is first necessary to prise out
the old seal then drive out the bearing with a suitable drift.
11 Thoroughly clean all the components, especially the mainshaft and
11 Rear extension — removal, overhaul and reassembly the inside of the casing. Inspect the casing for cracks, or oval bolt
holes. Check that the area where the bearing and oil seal seats is free
The rear extension houses the speedometer drive gear and the rear from scoring; if necessary rub down the area with a fine grade glass
roller bearing; should either of these items malfunction, it is possible to paper.
remove the extension without removing the gearbox. 12 Refitting is the reverse of the above procedures; ensure absolute
1 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands or blocks. cleanliness when refitting tne seal and bearing. Drive the bearing in
Drain the gearbox oil and disconnect the propeller shaft from the position, ensuring that it is absolutely square with the face of the
gearbox drive flange as described in Section 2. extension, then press in the oil seal with the lip facing the bearing. Fit
Nh Remove the drive flange (Section 3). the extension carefully over the mainshaft to avoid damaging the
3 Support the engine under the sump, using either blocks or a jack bearing or oil seal inner surfaces.

12 Fault diagnosis — gearbox

Symptom Reason/s

Sloppy gear lever and rattles Worn balljoint and pins, or loose reverse stop plunger.
Loose selector lever in top cover over gearbox.

Ineffective synchromesh on one or more gears Worn baulk rings. Worn blocker bars.

Jumps out of one or more gears Weak detent springs.

Worn selector forks.
Worn engagement dogs.
Worn synchro hubs.

Whining, roughness, vibration, allied to other faults Bearing failure and/or overall wear.

Noisy and difficult gear engagement Clutch not operating correctly.

Part B — Single rail gearbox

The gearbox input shaft is splined and it is onto these splines that
13 General description the clutch driven plate is located. The gearbox end of the input shaft is
in constant mesh with the laygear cluster, and the gears formed on the
The gearbox contains 4 forward and 1 reverse gear. Synchromesh laygear are in constant mesh with the gears on the mainshaft with the
is fitted to all forward gears. exception of the reverse gear. The gears on the mainshaft are able to
The gear lever is mounted on the extension housing and operates rotate freely which means that when the neutral position is selected
the selector mechanism in the gearbox by a long shaft. When the the mainshaft does not rotate.
gearchange lever is moved sideways the shaft is rotated so that the When the gear change lever moves the synchromesh unit outer
pins in the gearbox end of the shaft locate in the appropriate selector sleeve via the selector fork, the synchromesh cup first moves and fric-
fork. Forward or rearward movement of the gear change lever moves tion caused by the conical surfaces meeting takes up initial rotational
the selector fork which in turn, moves the synchromesh unit outer movement until the mainshaft and gear are both rotating at the same
sleeve until the gear is firmly engaged. When reverse gear is selected, speed. This condition achieved, the sleeve is able to slide over the dog
a pin on the selector shaft engages with a lever and this in turn moves teeth of the selected gear, thereby giving a firm drive. The syn-
the reverse idler gear into mesh with the laygear reverse gear and chromesh unit hub is splined to the mainshaft and because the outer
mainshaft. The direction of rotation of the mainshaft is thereby sleeve is splined to the inner hub engine torque is passed to the
reversed. mainshaft and propeller shaft.
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 85
_

14 Gearbox — removal and refitting

1 Remove the engine and gearbox from the car and separate the
engine from the gearbox as described in Chapter 1, Section 5.

15 Gearbox — dismantling

Refer to Fig. 6.12.

1 Prior to commencing work, clean the exterior of the gearbox using
paraffin or a water-saluble solvent. After the solvent has been applied
and allowed to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off
the solvent together with the oil and dirt. Finally wipe down the
exterior of the unit with a dry non-fluffy rag.
2 Undo and remove the five bolts securing the clutch housing to the
gearbox casing. Note that the lowermost bolt has a plain copper
washer as opposed to the spring washers of the other bolts.
3 Withdraw the clutch housing. Recover, if possible, the paper
gasket from the front face of the gearbox casing, and then withdraw
the three laygear preload springs from their respective apertures in the
gearbox front face, and store in a safe place.
4 Unscrew the top cover retaining bolts and remove the cover 15.21 Method of removing a speedometer drive gear
together with its gaskets. Lift out the interlock spool plate, noting
which way up it is fitted.
5 Withdraw the oil seal carrier from the clutch housing and ease off
the rubber O-ring. If signs of oil leaks from the front of the gearbox to 25 invert the gearbox and this will allow the laygear cluster to drop
clutch housing are present, the oil seal should be renewed using a into the bottom of the casing.
screwdriver, and a new one obtained for refitting. Note that the seal lip 26 Using a small drift placed on the bearing outer track, tap out the
faces outwards. gearbox input shaft. If necessary, recover the caged needle roller
6 Undo and remove the one bolt and spring washer securing the bearing from the end of the mainshaft.
reverse lift plate to the rear extension. Lift away the lift plate. 27 The mainshaft may now be driven rearwards slightly, in order to
7 Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the rear extension end remove the bearing and locating circlip. Using a screwdriver between
cover. the circlip and gearbox casing, ease the bearing out of its bore and its
8 With a mole wrench, hold the drive flange and using a socket locating shoulder on the mainshaft. Lift away the bearing from the end
wrench undo and remove the locking nut and plain washer. of the mainshaft.
9 Tap the drive flange from the end of the mainshaft. 28 The complete mainshaft may now be lifted away through the top
10 Lift out the speedometer drive pinion and housing assembly from of the gearbox main casing.
the rear extension. 29 Unscrew the dowel boit that locks the reverse idler shaft to the
11 Make a special note of the location of the selector shaft pegs and gearbox casing. Lift away the bolt and spring washer.
interlock spool, so that there will be no mistakes on reassembly. 30 Using a small drift, tap the reverse idler shaft rearwards, noting the
12 Using a suitable diameter parallel pin punch, carefully remove the hole in the shaft into which the dowel bolt locates.
roll pin from the bellhousing end of the selector shaft. 31 Note which way round the reverse idler is fitted and lift it from the
casing.
13 Undo and remove the eight bolts and spring washers securing the
rear extension to the gearbox casing. 32 Lift out the laygear cluster noting which way round it is fitted.
14 Draw the rear extension rearwards whilst at the same time feeding 33 Recover the two thrust washers, noting that the tags locate in
the interlock spool from the selector shaft. grooves in the gearbox casing.
15 With the rear extension and selector shaft away from the gearbox
casing, lift out the interlock spool.
16 Recover the paper gasket from the rear face of the gearbox casing. 16 Gearbox components — examination and renovation
17 \f oil was leaking from the end of the rear extension or the bearing
requires renewal, the oil seal must be removed and discarded. It must 1 The gearbox has been stripped, presumably, because of wear or
never be refitted, but always renewed. Ease it out with a screwdriver malfunction; possibly excessive noise, ineffective synchromesh, or
noting which way round the lip is fitted. failure to stay in a selected gear. The cause of most gearbox ailments
18 To remove the bearing, obtain a long metal drift and tap it out is failure of the ball bearings on the input or mainshaft and wear on the
working from the inside of the rear extension. Note which way round synchro-rings, both the bore surfaces and dogs. The nose of the
the bearing is fitted as indicated by the lettering. mainshaft which runs in the needle roller bearing in the input shaft is
19 Slide the thrust washer from over the end of the mainshaft. also subject to wear. This can prove very expensive as the mainshaft
20 Make a special note of the location of the speedometer drive gear would need renewal and this represents about 20% of the total cost of
on the mainshaft, if necessary by taking a measurement. a new gearbox.
21 To remove the speedometer drive from the mainshaft, place an 2 Examine the teeth of all gears for signs of uneven or excessive
open-jawed spanner of 2W or similar size firmly in a vice with jaws wear and, of course chipping. If a gear on the mainshaft requires
protruding. With the aid of an assistant, support the gearbox and posi- renewal check that the corresponding laygear is not equally damaged.
tion it with the mainshaft into the jaws of the spanner, so that the If it is the whole laygear may need renewing.
speedo gear is held against the spanner jaws. Temporarily refit the nut 3 All gears should be a good running fit on the shaft with no signs of
on the end of the mainshaft and with a soft-faced hammer or mallet, rocking. The hubs should not be a sloppy fit on the splines.
strike the shaft nut on the end (photo), to remove the speedometer 4 Selector forks should be examined for signs of wear or ridging on
gear from the shaft. Do not strike the gear — it can easily break or the faces which are in contact with the operating sleeve.
distort. 5 Check for wear on the selector rod and interlock spool.
22 Using a suitable diameter drift, tap out the selector fork shaft 6 The ball bearings may not be obviously worn, but having gone to
towards the front of the gearbox casing. the trouble of dismantling the gearbox it is false economy not to renew
23 Note the location of the two forward gear selector forks and lift them. The same applies to the four synchroniser rings, although for
these from the synchromesh sleeves. these the mainshaft has to be completely dismantled for the new ones
24 Using a suitable diameter drift, tap out the layshaft, working from to be fitted.
the front of the gearbox casing. This is because there is a layshaft 7 The input shaft bearing retainer is fitted with an oil seal and this
restraining pin at the rear to stop it rotating. should be removed if there are any signs that oil has leaked past it into
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 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 87
So

the clutch housing or, of course, if it is obviously damaged. The rear

Fig. 6.12 Exploded view of the gearbox component parts (Secs. extension has an oil seal at the rear as well as a ball bearing race. If
15, 17, 18 and 19) either have worn or oil has leaked past the seal the parts should be
renewed.
8 Before finally deciding to dismantle the mainshaft and renew any
1 Gearbox case 49 Ball bearing parts, it is advisable to make enquiries regarding the availability of
2 Oj filler level plug 50 Synchromesh cup parts and their costs. It may be still worth considering an exchange
3 Spacer 51 Ball gearbox even at this stage, but the gearbox will have to be
4 Joint gaskets 52 Spring reassembled before it will be accepted for exchanging.
5 Top cover 53 3rd and 4th speed sync-
6 Top cover bolt and washer hromesh hub
7 Joint gasket 54 3rd and 4th speed operating 17 Input shaft — dismantling and reassembly
& Plug sleeve
9 Detent plunger 55 Synchromesh cup 1 Place the input shaft, splined end upwards in a vice and, with a
10 Detent spring 56 Mainshaft circlip pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip which retains the ball bearing in
11 Rear extension 57 3rd speed gear thrust washer place. Lift away the backing washer.
12 End cover ~ 58 3rd speed gear 2 With the bearing resting on the top of open jaws of the vice and
13 Reverse light switch 59 Gear bush with the shaft splined end upwards, tap the shaft through the bearing
14 Reverse lift plate 60 Selective washer with a soft faced hammer. Note that the offset circlip groove in the
15 Oil seal 67 Gear bush outer track of the bearing is towards the front of the input shaft.
16 Interlock spool 62 2nd speed gear 3 Lift away the oil flinger.
17 Selector shaft ro// pin 63 Thrust washer 4 Remove the caged needle roller bearing from the centre of the rear
18 Reverse operating lever pin 64 Synchromesh cup of the input shaft, if it is still in place.
719 Reverse operating lever 65 Ball 5 Remove the circlip from the bearing outer track and transfer it to
20 Gear selector shaft 66 Spring the new bearing.
21 Magnet 67 1st and 2nd speed operating 6 Replace the oil flinger and with the aid of a block of wood and vice
22 Interlock spool plate sleeve tap the bearing into place. Make sure it is the right way round.
23 Retaining clip 68 Mainshaft reverse gear 7 Finally refit the backing washer and bearing retaining circlip.
24 Seal 69 Synchromesh cup
25 Housing 70 Split collar
26 O-ring 71 1st speed gear 18 Mainshaft — dismantling and reassembly
27 Speedometer pinion 72 Thrust washer
28 Gear lever yoke 73 Mainshaft centre bearing 1 The component parts of the mainshaft are shown in Fig. 6.12.
29 Seat 74 Snap-ring 2 Lift the 3rd and 4th gear synchromesh hub and operating sleeve
30 Spring 75 Selective washer assembly from the end of the mainshaft.
31 Anti-rattle plunger 76 Circlip 3 Remove the 3rd gear synchromesh cup.
32 Lower gearchange lever 77 Speedometer wheel 4 Using a small screwdriver, ease the 3rd gear retaining circlip from
33 Upper gearchange lever 78 Oil flinger its groove in the mainshaft. Lift away the circlip.
34 Dust cover washer 79 Front thrust washer 5 Lift away the 3rd gear thrust washer.
35 Dust cover 80 Bearing outer retaining ring 6 Slide the 3rd gear and bush from the mainshaft, followed by the
36 Knob 81 1st motion shaft thrust washer. Note this is a selective thrust washer.
37 Drain plug 82 Needle roller bearing 7 Slide the 2nd gear and bush from the mainshaft, followed by the
38 Reverse idler spindle locating 83 Mainshaft grooved washer. Note which way round it is fitted.
screw 84 Washer 8 Detach the 2nd gear synchromesh cup from inside the 2nd and
39 Reverse idler spindle 85 Ball bearing 1st gear synchromesh hub and lift away.
40 Reverse idler gear bush 86 Drive flange 9 Slide the 2nd and 1st gear synchromesh hub and reverse gear
41 Reverse idler gear 87 Washer sleeve assembly from the mainshaft. Recover the 1st synchromesh
42 Reverse idler distance piece 88 Self-locking nut cup.
43 3rd and 4th speed selector 89 Laygear gear cluster 10 Using a small electrician’s screwdriver, lift out the two split collars
forks 90 Bearing inner retaining ring from their groove in the mainshaft.
44 1st and 2nd speed selector 91 Needle rollers 11 Slide the 1st gear from the mainshaft, together with the thrust
forks 92 Rear thrust washer washer.
45 Selector fork shaft 93 Layshaft 12 The mainshaft is now completely dismantled.
46 Circlip 94 Layshaft dowel 13 Before reassembling, measure the endfloat on the 2nd and 3rd
47 Backing washer 95 Laygear pre-load springs gears on their respective bushes. The endfloat should be within the
48 Snap-ring limits quoted in the Specifications. Obtain a new bush if necessary to
achieve the correct endfloat.
14 Temporarily refit the 2nd gear washer, (oil grooved face away from
the mainshaft shoulder) to the mainshaft. Assemble to the mainshaft
the 3rd gear bush, selective washer, 2nd gear bush, 3rd gear thrust
washer with its oil grooved face to the bush, and fit the 3rd gear
mainshaft circlip. Measure the endfloat of the bushes on the
mainshaft, which should be within the limits quoted on the Specifica-
tions. Fit a new selective washer to obtain the correct endfloat. (Figs.
6.13 and 6.14). Remove the parts from the mainshaft.
15 To reassemble, slide 1st gear onto the mainshaft (photo).
16 Fit the two halves of the split collar into the groove in the
mainshaft and push the 1st gear hard up against the collar (photo).
17 Fit the synchromesh cup onto the cone of the 1st gear.
18 Slide the 1st and 2nd gear synchromesh hub and reverse gear
sleeve on the mainshaft and engage it with the synchromesh cup
(photo).
19 Fit the 2nd gear washer onto the end of the mainshaft splines so
that the oil grooved face is towards the front of the mainshaft (photo).
20 Fit the 2nd gear synchromesh cup to the synchromesh hub.
21 Slide the 2nd gear bush onto the mainshaft (photo).
 Fig. 6.13 The mainshaft gear endfloat (Sec. 18)
A = 0-002 to 0.006 in (0-050 to 0:0152 mm)

18.18 Fitting synchromesh hub and

reverse gear

18.19 Fitting 2nd gear washer-note oil 18.21 Fitting 2nd gear bush 18.22 Fitting 2nd gear onto bush
groove

18.23 Fit the selective washer 18.24 Fit 3rd gear bush 18.25 Fitting 3rd gear onto the bush
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 89

18.26 Fitting 3rd gear thrust washer 18.28 Fit the circlip 18.29 Fit 3rd/4th gear synchro hub

22 Fit the 2nd gear onto the bush on the mainshaft and engage the 7 Ease the mainshaft bearing up the mainshaft, circlip offset on the
taper with the internal taper of the synchromesh cup (photo). outer track towards the rear (photo).
23 Fit the 2nd and 3rd gear selective washer (photo). 8 Place a metal lever in the position shown in this photo so support-
24 Slide the 3rd gear bush onto the mainshaft (photo). ing the mainshaft spigot (photo).
25 Fit the 3rd gear onto the bush on the mainshaft, the cone facing 9 Using a suitable tube carefully drift the mainshaft bearing into
the front of the mainshaft (photo). position in the rear casing (photo).
26 Slide the 3rd gear thrust washer onto the mainshaft splines 10 Fit the 4th gear synchromesh cup onto the end of the input shaft.
(photo), with the grooved side facing forwards. 11 Insert the spacer and needle roller bearing into the end of the input
27 Fit the 3rd gear synchromesh cup onto the cone of the 3rd gear. shaft. Lubricate with grease, prior to assembly (photo).
28 Ease the 3rd gear retaining circlip into its groove in the mainshaft. 12 Fit the input to the front of the gearbox casing, taking care to
Make quite sure it is fully seated (photo). engage the synchromesh cup with the synchromesh hub (photo).
29 Finally slide on the 3rd and 4th gear synchromesh hub and operat- 13 Tap the input bearing until the circlip is hard up against the front
ing sleeve assembly and engage it with the synchromesh cup (photo). gearbox casing. Check that the mainshaft bearing outer track circlip is
30 If the assembled mainshaft is not being inserted directly into the hard up against the rear casing. Refit the washer and circlip.
gearbox, it is a good idea to retain the gears on the shaft by 14 Invert the gearbox. Fit the pin into the drilled hole in the layshaft
temporarily securing it with a Jubilee clip, as shown in photo 19.6b, or and carefully insert the layshaft from the rear of the main casing. This
by using a rubber band. will push out the previously inserted tube. The pin must be to the rear
of the main casing (photo).
15 Line up the layshaft pin with the groove in the rear extension, and
19 Gearbox — reassembly push the layshaft fully home.
16 Fit the 3rd and 4th gear selector fork to the synchromesh sleeve.
1 Position the laygear needle bearing roller inner retainers into the 17 Fit the 1st and 2nd gear selector fork to the synchromesh sleeve
laygear bore. Apply grease to the ends of the laygear and replace the (photo).
needle rollers. Retain in position with the outer retainers (photo). 18 Slide the selector fork shaft from the front through the two
2 Make-up a piece of tube the same diameter as the layshaft and the selector forks and into the rear of the main casing (photo).
length of the laygear plus thrust washers, and slide the tube into the 19 Fit a new gasket to the rear face of the main casing and retain in
laygear. This will retain the needle rollers in position. Apply grease to position with a little grease.
the thrust washers and fit to the ends of the laygear. The tags must 20 Place the speedometer drive gear into the mainshaft and using a
face outwards. tube, drive the gear into its previously noted position (photo).
3 Carefully lower the laygear into the bottom of the gearbox casing 21 Slide the washer up the mainshaft to the shoulder (photo).
(photo). 22 Place the rear extension bearing into its bore, letters facing out-
4 Fit the reverse gear operating lever to the operating lever pivot. wards.
Hold the reverse idler in its approximate fitted position and slide in the 23 Tap the bearing into position,using a suitable diameter socket.
idler shaft, drilled end first (photo). 24 Fit a new rear extension oil seal and tap into position with the pre-
5 Carefully line up the drilled hole in the idler shaft and gearbox viously used socket. The lip must face inwards (photo).
casing, and refit the dowel bolt and spring washer (photo). 25 Place the interlock spool on the selector forks with the flanges
6 The assembled mainshaft may now be fitted into the gearbox correctly engaged.
casing (photo), and the Jubilee clip removed (if fitted) (photo). 26 Offer the gearbox rear extension to the rear of the main casing, at

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19.1 Refit the laygear needle rollers 19.3 The laygear and thrust washers 19.4 Locating the reverse idler gear shaft
located in the gearbox
19.5 Inserting the dowel bolt and spring 19.6A Refitting the mainshaft 19.6B The retaining jubilee clip, arrowed,
washer can now be removed (if fitted)
ca

19.7 Refit the mainshaft bearing. Note 19.8 Supporting the mainshaft with a metal
position of offset circlip bar

ba.
19.11 Insert the input shaft spacer and 19.12 Fit the input shaft 19.14 Inserting the layshaft — note the roll
needle roller bearing pin

19.17 The 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector 19.18 Inserting the selector fork shaft 19.20 Driving the speedometer gear into
forks located position as marked by pen
19.21 Fit the mainshaft washer 19.24 New seal and bearing fitted to rear
extension

- AK Se

19.26B Guide the selector shaft through 19.28 The refitted roll pin in the selector 19.29 Refit the speedometer driven gear
the interlock spool shaft

5)

19.34 Refit the interlock spool plate

. fi na

19.37 Inserting the laygear preload spring 19.39 Refit the clutch housing 19.40 Location of bolt with copper washer
92 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission
pT ee ee Ee
the same time feeding the selector shaft through the interlock spool. It SS eat

will be necessary to rotate the selector shaft to obtain correct engage- 22 Principle of operation
ment (photos).
27 Secure the rear extension with the eight bolts and spring washers. The overdrive gears are epicyclic and comprise a central sunwheel
28 Refit the roll pin into the end of the selector shaft, ensuring the meshing with three planet gears, which in turn mesh with an internally
ends are equidistant from the shaft (photo). toothed annulus gear. The planet carrier is attached to the input shaft
29 Insert the speedometer driven gear and housing into the rear and the annulus gear is integral with the output shaft. All gears are
extension (photo). maintained in constant mesh.
30 Fit the drive flange onto the mainshaft splines (photo). Power is transmitted from the gearbox mainshaft to the inner
31 Hold the drive flange and tighten the retaining nut and washer member of a one-way clutch and then to the outer member when
fully. direct drive is being used. The outer member of the one way clutch
32 Refit the reverse lift plate to the rear extension and secure with the forms part of the combined annulus and output shaft and the gear train
bolt and spring washer. is inoperative.
33 Refit the rear extension end cover and tap into pesition with the A spring loaded cone clutch engages with the friction surface on
end of the lip flush with the end of the casting. the annulus and therefore the clutch rotates with the annulus and
34 Refit the interlock spool late in the same position as was noted output shaft. The sunwheel is splined to the clutch member; hence the
before removal (photo). whole gear train is locked and over-run and®reverse torque can be
35 Fit a new gasket to the gearbox casing and replace the top cover transmitted. Due to the helix angle of the sunwheel gearteeth,
(photo). additional load is imparted during over-run and reverse as the
36 Secure the top cover with the nine bolts and spring washers which sunwheel reacts against the cone clutch.
should be progressively tightened in a diagonal manner. When overdrive is engaged, hydraulic pressure causes the clutch
37 Re-insert the three laygear preload springs into their respective to move. It disengages from the annulus and engages with the brake
holes in the front gearbox face (photo). ring in the overdrive casing. The sunwheel, to which the clutch is
38 Fit a new gearbox casing front face gasket and retain in position attached, is held stationary. The planet carrier rotates with the input
with a little grease. shaft and the annulus is therefore driven by the planet wheels as they
39 Move the gearbox to the end of the bench and offer up the clutch rotate about their own axes. Since the output shaft speed is greater
housing (photo). than the input shaft speed, the outer member of the one-way clutch
40 Replace the five bolts securing the clutch housing to the main over-runs the inner member to permit this drive.
casing. Note four bolts have spring washers and the fifth (lowermost)
has a copper washer (photo).
41 Slide the clutch release bearing assembly onto its guide, at the
23 The hydraulic system
same time engaging the release lever.
42 If the gearbox was removed with the engine, it may now be
The hydraulic pressure required to operate the hydraulic cone
reattached. Secure in position with the retaining nuts, bolts and spring
clutch is developed from an integral plunger type pump. Oil is drawn
washers.
from an air-cooled sump and passed, via a pressure filter, to the clutch
43 Fill the gearbox with the specified quantity and grade of oil.
operating pistons. When overdrive is selected, a solenoid valve
operates and allows oil to pass, via a damping orifice, to the relief
valve. This allows a controlled bleed of pressure back to the oil sump
20 Fault diagnosis — gearbox

Refer to Section 12.

Part C — Overdrive

21 General description

An optional extra for fitment to the Dolomite 1500 and 1500HL is

the ‘Laycock type J’ overdrive unit. It is attached to the rear of the
gearbox by eight studs and nuts, and takes the form of an hydraulically
operated epicyclic gear. Overdrive operates on third and fourth speeds
to provide fast cruising at lower engine revolutions. The overdrive ‘in-
out’ switch on the top of the gear change lever actuates a solenoid
attached to the side of the overdrive unit. In turn the solenoid operates
a valve which opens the hydraulic circuit which pushes the cone clutch
into contact with the annulus when overdrive is engaged.
During high speed motoring, the engine speed is decreased with
the engagement of overdrive, so that with continual use of the unit,
there will be a considerable increase in engine lift with a corresponding
decrease in engine wear. Fuel consumption will be reduced con-
siderably, also.
A special switch, called an inhibitor switch, is incorporated in the Fig. 6.15 Items accessible with the overdrive installed
electrical circuit and prevents the engagement of overdrive in reverse,
first or second gears. The switch is fitted to the gearbox. Overdrive can 7 Sump bolt and washer 9 Dashpot assembly
be engaged or disengaged at any speed, but 30 mph in top gear is 2 Sump 10 Residual pressure spring
about the minimum. It should be operated without using the clutch 3 Sump gasket 11 Relief valve piston assembly
pedal and at any required throttle opening, since the unit is designed to 4 Sump filter 12 Non-return valve plug
be engaged and disengaged when transmitting full power. The only 5 Pressure filter plug 13 Spring
precaution necessary is to avoid disengaging overdrive third gear into 6 Aluminium washer 714 Ball
direct third gear at road speeds in excess of 78 mph (125 km/h), or this 7 Pressure filter element 15 Valve seat
would over rev the engine. 8 Relief valve plug 16 Valve body
 21)
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94 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

but maintains a high system pressure. Smooth engagement of over- of which is earthed. With the ignition ON and top gear engaged, check
drive is assured by the combined effect of the orifice and a spring that the lamp illuminates when overdrive is selected. If there is no
dashpot within the relief valve. When overdrive is switched out, the illumination of the lamp, trace through the wiring and check the over-
solenoid is de-energised and the relief valve opens fully. The system drive inhibitor switch.
pressure falls to about 20 Ibf/in? (1.4 kgf/cm’) but the relief valve does
not immediately open, since the relief valve pressure is restricted by
the orifice. Therefore a smooth disengagement of overdrive is assured. 26 Relief valve and dashpot assembly — removal, repair and refitt-
A tapping at the inlet to the relief valve is utilised for the purpose ing
of lubricating the one-way clutch, gears and bearings.
Note: The procedure given in Sections 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28 can be Before attempting to carry out any work on the relief valve it must
carried out without removing the overdrive from the car. be appreciated that if the relief valve body is to be removed, it will be
necessary to purchase Churchill tool number L401A.
1 Drain the overdrive unit, but if the car has been in recent use take
24 Oil pressure checks care that the hot oil does not burn your hands. Remove the overdrive
sump and gauze filter.
1 Initially check that the oil level is correct then remove the plug 2 Using a suitable locally manufactured tool, or alternatively
adjacent to the solenoid and fit a pressure gauge suitable for reading Churchill tool number L354, remove the relief Valve plug.
up to 500 Ibf/in? (35.2 kgf/cm’). 3 Withdraw the dashpot piston complete with its compcnent
2 Raise the rear wheels and adequately chock the front wheels. Run springs and cup, followed by the residual pressure spring. Using a pair
the engine and transmission in top gear at an indicated speed of 25 of long nosed pliers, the relief valve piston can be withdrawn. At this
mph (40 kph) and check that a pressure of 20 Ibf/in? (1.41 kgf/cm’) stage it is advisable to clean the control orifice, which can be done
(approximately) is recorded. using a clean dry air line. This will need to be done with the solenoid
3 Engage overdrive and check that the pressure rises to 430/460 removed. Under no circumstances should a wire or pin be inserted into
Ibf/in? (30.2/32.3 kg/cm?) and then returns to around 20 Ibf/in? (1.41 the orifice, since even the slightest damage, scoring or burring can
kgf/cm’) when overdrive is switched out. impair its calibration.
4 if it is intended to remove the relief valve body and sleeve insert
the special tool number L401A into the exposed relief valve bore,
25 Solenoid control valve — removal and checking taking care not to damage or score any working parts and withdraw
the relief valve body together with the dashpot sleeve.
1 Remove the solenoid using a 1 in(25 mm) AF spanner. Do not use 5 Do not dismantle the preset dashpot and piston assemblies or .
a wrench on the solenoid valve body, or irreparable damage may the operating datum will be disturbed. Examine all parts for freedom
result. of movement, scoring, corrosion, cracks etc. Check the residual pre-
2 Do not attempt to dismantle the solenoid valve as it is a sealed ssure spring and O-rings for damage. Renew any defective or suspect
unit. Examine the O-rings and sealing washer, and renew them if they parts.
are damaged in any way. 6 When refitting, make sure that all the parts are clean and lightly
3 Using a 12 volt battery and an ammeter, check that the unit oiled. Insert the relief valve body in the bore and using the relief valve
operates at a current of approximately 2 amps. It will not be possible outer sleeve push fully home, making sure that the O-ring is nearest to
to hear the solenoid move, but a clean brass pin or piece of copper the outside of the casing.
wire can be inserted at the end to detect movement of the valve stem. 7 Position the relief valve spring and piston assembly into the
If the solenoid draws the correct current, but does not move, the dashpot cup taking care that the residual pressure spring is correctly
operating valve may be cleaned in paraffin to remove any deposits. If located. Position the components in the relief valve outer sleeve and at
this does not cure the fault, or if no current is drawn, the solenoid must the same time engage the relief valve piston in its housing.
be renewed. 8 Finally, fit the base plug and tighten it flush with the casing to a
4 To check the electrical control system to the solenoid, connect the torque of 16 Ibf ft (2.21 kgf m).
line solenoid feed connection to a 12 volt test lamp, the other terminal

Ze)
27 Hydraulic pump non-return valve — removal, cleaning and
refitting

pate a8
1 Drain the overdrive oil and remove the sump and gauze filter as
described in the previous Section.
2 Using a locally manufactured tool, or alternatively Churchill tool

J
a
SOE
LIN Os
LA
LG

eo A
s es
= is:

coc

Fig. 6.18 Using tool No. L401A to withdraw the relief valve and
Fig. 6.17 Using a gauge to check the oil pressure (Sec. 24) dashpot sleeve (Sec. 26)
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 95
A

number L354, remove the pump plug taking care not to lose the non- 2 Remove the overdrive from the gearbox as described in the pre-
return valve spring and ball. Withdraw the pump valve seat. vious Section.
3 If it is required to remove the pump body, rotate the propeller shaft 3 Carefully clean the exterior of the overdrive with petrol or a
until the pump plunger is at the top of its stroke and very carefully proprietary solvent before any dismantling is commenced.
withdraw the pump body, by hooking a piece of clean wire into the 4 Mount the unit vertically in a vice, which is fitted with jaw clamps
now exposed inlet port. to prevent superficial damage.
4 Clean and inspect all parts, looking particularly for damage or 5 Remove the nuts securing the four bridge pieces, then the bridge
corrosion to the ball and valve seat. Examine the O-rings for condition pieces.
and renew any defective or suspect parts. 6 Using a pair of pliers on the centre boss, carefully pull out the
5 When refitting, fit the body (if previously removed) then place the pistons.
spring in the recess in the plug and carefully balance the ball on the 7 Progressively release the six nuts around the casing to release the
spring. The return seat can then be placed on the ball and the plug pressure of the clutch return spring.
torque tightened to a value of 16 Ibf ft (2.21 kgf m). 8 Remove the washers from the casing, paying particular attention
to the position of the two copper washers.
9 Withdraw the main casing, complete with the brake ring, from the
rear casing (Fig. 6.22).
28 Pressure filter — removal, cleaning and refitting
10 Carefully lift out the sliding member assembly, complete with the
sunwheel, from the rear casing.
1 Drain the overdrive unit of oil; then remove the sump and gauze
11. Lift out the planet carrier assembly, but take great care that the oil
filter, as previously described.
thrower which is attached to the underside of the carrier, is not
2 Using a locally manufactured tool, or Churchill tool number L354,
damaged.
remove the pressure filter plug. The filter element will come away with
12 Reverting to the main casing, use a suitable drift and carefully tap
the plug, but take care not to lose the aluminium washer which locates
the brake ring from its spigot.
on the shoulder of the filter bore.
13 Remove the sump and suction filter.
3 Wash the filter element in petrol or paraffin and allow it to dry.
14 Remove the relief valve assembly as described in Section 26.
4 When refitting, check that the aluminium washer is undamaged
15 Remove the hydraulic pump plug, non-return valve as described in
and renew if necessary, then torque tighten the plug to a value of 16
Section 27.
Ibfft (2.21 kgf m).
16 Remove the oil pump plug, non-return valve spring, ball and valve
seat.
17 Work the oil pump body out of the main casing then take out the
29 Overdrive — removal and refitting pump plunger assembly.
18 Remove the pressure filter as described in Section 28.
1 Raise the rear wheels and run the transmission normally. Engage 19 Remove the solenoid control valve as described in Section 25.
overdrive, then disengage with the clutch pedal depressed. (This 20 Remove the circlip which retains the sunwheel extension, then
releases the spline loading between the planet carrier and one-way take out the sunwheel.
roller clutch). 21 Remove the circlip from the groove in the hub of the cone clutch.
2 Remove the gearbox and overdrive from the car by reference to 22 Using a soft faced mallet, carefully tap out the clutch from the
Chapter 1, Section 5. thrust ring bearing.
3 Remove the gearbox from the overdrive by removing the 8 nuts 23 Remove the large circlip then press the bearing out of its housing.
securing the adaptor to the unit. Remove the overdrive over the 24 Using a screwdriver, remove the oil thrower circlip, then the oil
mainshaft 'eaving the adaptor plate in position on the gearbox. thrower, from the one-way clutch in the rear casing.
Note: If difficulty is experienced, remove the plug adjacent to the
solenoid, energise the solenoid then force clean oil from an oil gun
through the plug orifice. This will require the use of a locally
manufactured adaptor or Churchill tool number L402. De-energise the
solenoid once the two units have started to separate.
4 When refitting, first use a screwdriver to rotate the inner member
of the one-way clutch (ie, the innermost set of splines) in an
anticlockwise direction until they align with the splines in the planet
carrier.
5 Check that the oil pump cam and sungear spring ring are correctly
located on the mainshaft of the gearbox.
6 Rotate the gearbox mainshaft, to get the peak of the pump cam
lowermost. This will assist with the engagement of the pump strap.
7 Select first gear on the gearbox.
8 With a new face gasket in position, offer-up the overdrive to the
gearbox.
9 Rotate the output shaft clockwise, whilst applying slight end pres-
sure until the splines engage.
10 Check that the pump strap assembly rides smoothly on to the cam
and that the overdrive can be pushed fully to the adaptor plate face
without excessive force. Note: If a gap of approximately 2 in (16 mm)
remains, it means that the planet carrier and one-way roller clutch
splines have become disengaged. If this occurs, re-align them as
detailed in paragraph 4, of this Section.
11. Fit and tighten the eight gearbox/overdrive nuts.

30 Overdrive — dismantling, overhaul and reassembly

Note: Before commencing to dismantle the overdrive, it will be Fig. 6.19 Operating pistons and lubrication non-return valve (Sec.
necessary to obtain Churchill tool number L178A for removal of the 30)
one-way roller clutch and tool number L401 for removal of the relief
valve and dashpot sleeve. 1 Main casing 3 Securing nut
1 Removal of the gearbox and overdrive from the car is described in 2 Lubrication non-return valve 4 Bridge piece
Chapter 1, Section 5. assembly 5 Operating pistons
 96

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98 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission
ED

25 Place tool number L178A over the exposed clutch, then lift out the
inner member complete with its rollers.
26 Remove the bronze thrust washer from the rear casing.
27 Remove the speedometer drive bolt and retaining bracket.
28 Using a pair of pliers, remove the speedometer drive and its bush,
then separate the bush from the driven gear.
29 Remove the drive flange nut and washer, then use a suitable
extractor to withdraw the flange.
30 Using a soft faced hammer on the end of the driveshaft, drive the
annulus forward through the rear casing. The forward bearing,
speedometer drive gear and spacer will be withdrawn with the annulus
and can then be removed separately.
31 Remove the oil seal and bearing from the rear of the casing.
32 Examine the main casing for cracks. If any are evident, it may be
possible for a firm of specialist welders to make a satisfactory repair.
33 Examine the piston surfaces and cylinder bores for wear. If any is
present the only satisfactory answer is to renew them. The pistons
seals should be renewed even if apparently satisfactory in view of tne
complicated procedure of renewal; it is false economy to try and-get
away with the existing ones.
34 Examine the clutch linings on the sliding member for wear and
signs of charring. If any are present, the sliding member must be
renewed; it is not possible to renew the linings which are bonded to
the casing and are precision machined.
35 Ensure all the ball races are free spinning and renew them if
necessary.
36 Examine the clutch return springs for distortion and collapse —
renew as necessary.
37 Inspect the teeth of the sunwheel and planet gears for any signs of
wear, damage, discolouration or corrosion — renew as necessary.
38 Check the planet gear bearings for excessive clearance and signs
of rough running, renewing as necessary.
39 Check the oil thrower for damage and renew if necessary.
40 Inspect the teeth and the cone surface of the annulus for wear,
chipping and scoring. If any are present the annulus should be
renewed.
41 Check the rollers, and inner and outer members of the one-way
clutch, for chipping and other damage. Examine the spring and cage
for distortion. Renew parts as necessary.
42 Examine the speedometer drive and driven gears for wear and
chafing. Also examine the bush for wear. If any is present, renew the
parts as necessary.
30) 43 Renew any O-rings, oi! seals, and circlips which are burred,
distorted or damaged in any other way.
44 To reassemble, first fit the speedometer drive with shoulder
towards the front bearing, then press the bearing into position. Ensure
that the outer race is fully pressed home.
45 With the front face of the annulus suitably protected, press on the
rear casing (with the speedometer drive gear and bearing fitted) until
the bearing abuts on the locating shoulder.
46 Fit the spacer, then press the rear bearing into the casing and on
to the annulus shaft. Make sure that the outer bearing is fully home,
and the annulus also.
47 Lubricate the rear oil seal with engine oil, then carefully fit it with
the lips towards the bearings.
48 Press on the drive flange, then fit the washer and tighten the nut
to 80 to 120 Ibfft (11.1 to 16.6 kgf m).
49 Fit the spring and inner member of the one-way roller clutch into
the cage, locating the spring so that the cage is spring !oaded in an
anticlockwise direction, as viewed from the front.
50 Place the one-way roller clutch in tool number L178A, open side
of the cage uppermost, then rotate the clutch clockwise until all the
rollers are in place.
51 Refit the bronze thrust washer into the recess of the annulus then
transfer the clutch (in the special tool) into its outer member inside the
annulus.
52 Fit the oil thrower and circlip, then check that the clutch is
assembled correctly. It should rotate anticlockwise only.
53 Fit the remaining ballrace into its housing in the thrust ring and fit
the circlip.
54 Position this assembly onto the hub of the cone clutch and fit the
Fig. 6.23 Using tool L178A to assemble the one-way clutch (Sec. circlip. Ensure that the latter is properly in its groove.
30) 55 Insert the sunwheel into the hub and fit the circlip on the sunwheel
extension.
7 Inner member 3 Assembly tool 56 Lightly smear the operating pistons with oil, then fit them into
2 Cage 4 Roller their respective housings.
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 99
ee
es
57 Refit the solenoid control valve, pressure filter, oil pump assembly with the gears of the planet carrier.
and pump non-return valve assembly. Refer to the appropriate Sec- 64 Apply a gasket cement such as ‘Wellseal’ to the faces of the brake
tions in this Chapter if necessary. ring gaskets, noting the two different types, then fit the brake ring on
58 Lightly oil the component parts of the relief valve, then insert the to its spigot in the rear casing. Check that the stud holes are aligned.
body into the bore. Push it fully home using the relief valve outer 65 Position the main casing over the thrust pins whilst
sleeve, ensuring that the O-ring end is nearest the outside of the simultaneously entering the studs in the brake ring.
casing. 66 Apply a gasket cement such as ‘Wellseal’ to the two copper
59 Position the relief valve spring and piston assembly in the cup of washers and thread of the two top studs.
the dashpot, taking care to correctly locate both ends of the spring. 67 Fasten the earth strap to the stud immediately above the solenoid
Now carefully position these items in the relief valve outer sleeve, aperture.
whilst at the same time engaging the relief valve piston in its housing. 68 Fit the six nuts to secure the main, and rear casing, and
60 Fit the base plug and tighten it to a torque of 16 Ibf ft (2.2 kgf m). progressively tighten to a torque of 13 to 15 Ibf ft (1.8 to 2.1 kgf m).
61 Refit the pump and suction filter, as detailed earlier in the Chapter. As the two halves of the casing go together, clutch spring pressure will
62 Mount the rear casing vertically in a vice (with soft jaws fitted) and be felt.
insert the planet carrier assembly. 69 Fit the two bridge pieces over the operating pistons and secure
63 Fit the clutch springs to the thrust pins on the sliding member then with new self-locking nuts to a torque of 6 to 8 Ibf ft (0.8 to 1.1 kgf m).
fit this assembly onto the cone of the annulus. Engage the sunwheel

31 Fault diagnosis — overdrive

Symptom Reason/s

Overdrive will not engage Insufficient oil.

Solenoid will not energise.
Solenoid energises but will not operate.
Insufficient hydraulic pressure.
Faulty pump.
Internal fault.
Electrical circuit fault.
Solenoid sticking.
High residual pressure.

Overdrive will not release* Blocked control orifice

Sticking cone clutch.
Internal fault.

*/f the overdrive will not release it is essential that an immediate examination is made. Do not reverse the car or serious damage may result.

Clutch slips when in overdrive Insufficient oil.

Low operating pressure.
Solenoid sticking.
Clutch linings badly worn or glazed.

Slow overdrive disengagement and/or free-wheeling on overrun and/or Relief valve sticking.
reverse gear slipping Sluggish operation of control valve.
Blocked orifice.
Internal fault.

Part D — Automatic transmission

Selection of the required ratio is by means of a ‘T’ lever, mounted

32 Automatic transmission — notes and general description on the gearbox tunnel, which has a fixed quadrant with the selector
positions ‘P’, ‘R’, ‘N’, ‘D’, ‘2’, ‘1’ marked.
It is not possible to start the engine unless the selector is in the ‘P’
The ‘Borg-warner model 65’ automatic transmission is available as an or ‘N’ positions. This prevents inadvertent movement of the vehicle
optional extra for the 1500TC and Dolomite 1500HL models. It is a and is controlled by an inhibitor switch mounted on the transmission
lightweight version of the earlier ‘Borg-warner 35 model’ and due to unit.
the re-siting of the hydraulic control unit within the sump, the unsigh- The gate is suitably shaped to prevent accidental engagement of
tly bulge in the transmission tunnel, which was associated with former ‘1','2','R’ or ‘P’ positions.
versions, is no longer necessary. The system comprises two main com- Note: If it is intended to use a car fitted with automatic transmission
ponents: for towing purposes it is essential that a transmission oil cooler be
fitted.
a) A three element hydrokinetic torque converter coupling, Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission unit, it is not
capable of torque multiplication at an infinitely variable ratio recommended that stripping the unit is attempted. Where the unit is
between 2:1 and 1:1. known to be faulty and the fault cannot be rectified by following the
b) A torque/speed responsive hydraulic epicyclic gearbox com- procedures given in the following Sections of this Chapter, the repair
prising a planetary gearset, providing three forward ratios and should be entrusted to a Leyland dealer or automatic transmission
one reverse ratio. specialist.
100 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

33 Automatic transmission — removal and refitting

1 Drive the car on to a ramp, or have available adequate jacks and

axle stands to permit access to the underside of the car.
2 Select ‘N’ and chock the front road wheels.
3 Open the bonnet and disconnect the battery earth strap.
4 Drain the cooling system.
5 Take off the three top cooling hoses.
6 Disconnect the downshift cable at the throttle linkage.
7 Disconnect the transmission unit breather pipe.
8 Raise the ramp, or jack the car up and use axle stands, to gain
access to the underside.
9 Remove the exhaust system.
10 Detach the propeller shaft at the drive flange and support its
weight so that it cannot fall (see Chapter 7).
11 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the rear extension.
12 Remove the selector rod after unclipping it at each end. Do not
alter the adjustment.
13 Pull off the connectors on the reverse lamp switch and inhibitor
switch.
14 Unscrew the union at the base of the filler pipe and drain the fluid
into a container of at least 10.5 pints (6 litres) capacity, or 11.5 pints
(6.5 litres) capacity if a transmission oil cooler is fitted.
15 Mark the fitted position of the steering column intermediate shaft
and disconnect it from the rack.
16 Jack up the front of the vehicle and place axle stands under the
jacking points. If jacks are already being used, these may need to be
raised higher at a later stage.
17 Lower the ramp (if being used).
18 Remove all the torque converter housing/engine attachment bolts
accessible from above. Remove the filler/dipstick tube also.
19 Raise the ramp (if in use) and support the unit with a suitable jack
placed beneath the sump. Use a baulk of timber to spread the load.
20 Remove the subframe rear mounting nuts and lower the subframe
as far as possible.
21 Remove the rear mounting platform of the transmission unit.
22 Carefully lower the engine/transmission assembly and take out the
remaining attachment bolts.
23 Manoeuvre the transmission unit clear of the car and lower it to
the ground. Some fluid is certain to flow out during this operation so
conveniently placed newspapers and rag will be useful.
24 When refitting the automatic transmission unit, first align the slots
in the pump driving gear with the driving fingers of the converter hub.
25 Whilst employing an assistant to turn the crankshaft pulley as
necessary, raise the transmission unit and insert the input shaft into
the torque converter. As the input shaft splines align, the unit can be
pushed fully home.
26 Fit the upper transmission unit/engine bolts and nuts,.and position
the filler tube to enable its clip to be fitted at the same time.
27 Raise the ramp or jacks; then, locate and fit the mounting

Fig. 6.25 Renewal of the downshift cable (Sec. 34)

Fig. 6.24 General view of the transmission mounting showing the 1 Adjustment locknut 4 Cable nipple and cam
washers and spacers (Sec. 33) 2 Linkage bracket 5 Cable end fitting
3 Clevis pin assembly 6 Special tool or tubular drift
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 101

platform.
28 Raise the subframe and refit the securing nuts.
29 Remove the axle stands and lower the ramp or remove the jacks.
30 Refit the filler tube to the union.
31 Fit the remaining transmission unit/engine attachment bolts.
32 Refit the three coolant hoses.
33 Raise the ramp, or jacks, as appropriate.
34 Fit the propeller shaft to the drive flange.
35 Reconnect the speedometer drive to the rear extension.
36 Reconnect the selector rod. Do not alter the adjustment unless
subsequent road testing shows it to be necessary.
37 Connect the electrical leads to the reverse light and inhibitor
switches.
38 Fit the dipstick tube to the sump union.
39 Fit the exhaust system; then lower the ramp orjacks.
40 Fit the downshift cable to the throttle linkage.
41 Fill the transmission unit with the correct amount of fiuid.
42 Fill the cooling system and reconnect the battery earth strap.
43 Road test the vehicle then check the transmission unit fluid level.

34 Downshift cable - removal, refitting and adjustment

1 Drive the car onto a ramp or have available a jack. Select ‘N’ and
apply the handbrake.
2 Open the bonnet and disconnect the cable at the carburettor
linkage bracket. Also remove the split pin, washer and clevis pin.
3 Raise the ramp, or jack up the car, and then remove the transmis-
sion unit sump. Refer to Section 45, if necessary. Fig. 6.26 Front brake band adjustment (Sec. 35)
4 Disconnect the cable from the cam, then use a suitable tubular
drift, or alternatively tool number ‘CBW 62’, to push the cable out of ‘ 1 Cover plate 3 Locknut
the transmission unit. The cable can now be removed completely. 2 Adjuster
5 When refitting, first fit the cable nipple to the cam, then insert the
outer cable endfitting into the transmission unit and press fully home.
6 Fit the other parts in the reverse order to removal and refill the
sump with fluid.
7 Set the cable in the bracket so that there is ¢ in (1.5 mm) gap
between the crimped stop and the outer ferrule. Tighten the locknuts
in this position.
8 To adjust the cable to correct the ‘kick-down’ point, it will be
necessary to run the engine with the handbrake on and ‘D’ selected.
9 Set the idle speed to 750 rpm and stop the engine.
10 With the cable already correctly set at the bracket (paragraph 7)
remove the transmission unit sump (Section 45).
11 Check that the cam is in the idle position, then arrange for an
assistant to fully depress the accelerator pedal whilst checking that the
cam moves to the ‘kick-down’ position. If this is not achieved with the
existing outer cable adjustment, further adjustment can be made as
required.
12 Finally tighten the locknuts, refit the sump, and refill with fluid.

Fig. 6.27 Rear brake band adjustment point (Sec. 36)

35 Front brake band — adjustment
1 Adjuster 2 Locknut
1 Remove the transmission cover carpet and remove the access
selector lever and rod.
plate.
2 Slacken the locknut on the adjustment screw then torque tighten 2 Take out the four cover bolts and withdraw the servo assembly,
spring and joint washer.
the screw to 5 Ibf ft (0.7 kgf m).
3. Back the screw off 3/4 of a turn then hold it stationary in this posi- 3. Remove the spring and withdraw the piston (Fig. 6.28).
4 Take off all the O-rings from the piston and body, and discard
tion whilst tightening the locknut.
them.
4 Fit the access plate and refit the carpet.
5 Clean all the parts in petrol and wipe them dry with a lint-free rag.
6 Inspect the piston for scoring, corrosion or other damage and
36 Rear brake band — adjustment renew if necessary.
7 Inspect the cover for damage and check that the passages are
1 Drive the car onto a ramp or raise it on jacks. Apply the handbrake. unobstructed.
2 Select ‘P’; raise the ramp and slacken the adjuster locknut. 8 It is preferable to renew the spring, unless it is known to be
3 Torque tighten the screw to 5 Ibf ft (0.7 kgf m) then back it off } of serviceable.
a turn. 9 Assemble the unit in the reverse order to dismantling, using new
4 Hold the screw stationary in this position and tighten the locknut. O-rings and a new gasket.
5 Lower the car to the ground.

38 Rear servo — removal, overhaul and refitting

37 Front servo — removal, overhaul and refitting
1 Remove the front exhaust pipe, then take out the six bolts on the
1 With the handbrake on and ‘N’ selected, remove the gearbox rear servo cover.
102 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

Fig. 6.28 Component parts of front servo (Sec. 37)

1 Joint washer (gasket) 5 Piston

2 O-ring 6 Cover O-rings
3 Spring 7 Cover
4 Piston O-rings 8 Screw

Fig. 6.29 Component parts of rear servo (Sec. 38)

1 Screw 5 Spring
2 Cover 6 Pushrod
3 Piston O-rings 7 Joint washer (gasket)
4 Piston 8 O-rings

2 Withdraw the servo assembly, joint washer, spring and pushrod.

3 Remove the pushrod and spring; then withdraw the piston.
4 Take off all the O-rings from the piston and body and discard
them.
5 Clean alt the parts in petrol and wipe them dry with a lint-free rag.
6 Inspect the piston for scoring, corrosion or other damage and
renew if necessary.
7 Inspect the cover for damage and check that the passages are
unobstructed.
8 It is preferable to renew the spring if possible unless it is known to
be serviceable.
9 Assemble the unit in the reverse order to dismantling, using new
O-rings and a new gasket.
10 Finally refit the front exhaust pipe.
Fig. 6.30 Rear extension oil seal (Sec. 40)

39 Rear extension — removal and refitting 1 Ojl seal 4 Washer

2 Rear extension 5 Nut
1 Drive the car on to a ramp or have jacks available. Chock the 3 Drive flange
wheels and select ‘N’.
2 Remove the propeller shaft flange connection and support the
weight of the shaft.
3 Remove the exhaust pipe bracket from the transmission unit. 40 Extension rear oi! seal — renewal
4 Support the transmission unit under its sump, using a suitable
jack. 1 Carry out the procedure given in paragraphs 1, 2 and 8 of the pre-
5 Remove the four nuts which secure the support cradle to the vious Section.
underframe and the two nuts which secure the rear extension to the 2 Prise out the existing oil seal.
support cradle. Note the washers and spacers used. 3 Using a suitable drift, carefully drive in a new oil seal. Lightly
6 Lift away the cradle. lubricate the lip of the seal.
7 Disconnect the speedometer drive gear. 4 Refit the parts in the reverse order to removal.
8 Whilst restraining the flange from turning, unscrew the locking nut
then pull the flange off. _————————
9 Unscrew the flange restraining bolts (note the special head on 41 Governor — removal, overhaul and refitting
some bolts and their respective positions). ee
10 Withdraw the rear extension. 1 Remove the rear extension as described in Section 39.
11 Refitment is a straightforward reversal of the removal procedure, 2 Take off the speedometer drive clamp tube and withdraw the drive
but make sure that a new flange gasket is used. gear.
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 103

3 Unscrew the counterweight from the base of the governor, taking

note of the spring washer.
4 Withdraw the governor from the shaft.
5 Prise off the weight retaining circlip and remove the weight.
6 Withdraw the stem, spring and valve.
7 Wash all the parts in petrol and dry with a lint-free rag.
8 Check the parts for burrs and scoring and for any signs of thread
damage.
9 Itis best to renew the spring, even if it is apparently satisfactory.
10 When reassembling, first insert the valve into the body.
11 Next, fit the spring to the stem; then fit both parts into the body.
12 Refit the weight and a new circlip.
13 Refit the governor and refit the counterweight and spring washer.
14 Refit the speedometer drive gear and clamp tube.
15 Refit the rear extension.

42 Restrictor valve and bypass pipe — removal, cleaning and 7 weors

refitting

1 Select ‘P’ and apply the handbrake.

2 Unscrew both union nuts on the bypass pipe and withdraw it.
3 Unscrew the restrictor valve.
4 Wash the pipe and restrictor valve in petrol and shake dry before Fig. 6.31 Removing the governor (Sec. 41)
refitting.
5 Refitment is the reverse procedure to removal. 1 Circlip 5 Counterweight
2 Weight 6 Valve
3 Governor body 7 Stem
43 Selector rod — adjustment 4 Spring washer 8 Spring
1 Select ‘N’ and apply the handbrake.
2 Slacken the locknut on the adjuster and disconnect the rod at the
selector lever (transmission end).
3 Check that the transmission is in neutral, or move the lever to
neutral if necessary.
4 Alter the adjuster position as necessary to obtain neutral on the
selector lever and hand ‘T’ lever.
5 Tighten the locknut and finally fit the lever when the adjustment is
correct.

44 Transmission sump — draining and refitting

1. Drive the vehicle on to a ramp, or have available adequate jacks to

provide access to the underside of the car.
2 Select ‘P’ and apply the handbrake.
3 Raise the ramp, or jacks.
4 Wipe around the drain plug and then remove it (Fig. 6.34); drain
the contents of the sump into a container of at least 10.5 pints (6
litres) capacity, or 11.5 pints (6.5 litres) capacity if a transmission oil
cooler is fitted. Nete: It is not possible to drain the torque converter
completely.
5 Refit the drain plug on completion; then add fresh fluid up to the
level of the ‘C’ mark on the dipstick — no higher.
6 Give the car a warming-up run and re-check the fluid level when
hot.

45 Transmission sump — removal and refitting

1 Unscrew the filler/dipstick pipe at the union on the lower sidewall

of the sump, (Fig. 6.35) and allow the oil to drain into a container of at
least 10.5 pints (6 litres) capacity, or 11.5 pints (6.5 litres) capacity if a
transmission oil cooler is fitted. Note: It is not possible to drain the
torque converter compietely.
2 Unscrew the sump bolts then remove the sump and its gasket.
3 When refitting the sump, make sure that the mating surfaces are
clean. Use a new gasket and refit the bolts.
4 Refit the filler/dipstick pipe then fill the sump as described in the
previous Section.
Fig. 6.33 Selector rod adjustment (Sec. 43)

46 Starter inhibitor/reverse lamp switch — removal and refitting 7 Selector rod 2 Adjuster
_ EEE EEE
1 Drive the car on to a ramp or have available adequate jacks to
permit access to the transmission.
104 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission

2 Select ‘P’ and apply the handbrake.

3. Take off the thread protector from the switch cover (where fitted).
4 Disconnect the switch leads, noting their colour coding and rela-
tive positions for when refitment is required.
5 Unscrew the bolt and remove the switch.
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure

47 Hand lever turret — removal and refitting

1. Apply the handbrake and select position ‘1’.

2. Slacken the locking collar beneath the ‘T’ handle then remove the
handle and collar.
3 Remove the three screws retaining the console then lift the latter
off.
4 Disconnect the electrical leads to the illumination bulb.
5 Take out the screws retaining the Turret assembly then lift the
assembly off.
6 Release the clip on the end of the selector rod, by pushing it
forward; then disconnect the rod from the hand lever.
7 Refitting is the reverse of removal, but select position ‘1’ and
finally tighten the ‘T’ handle collar, so that the handle is squarely fitted.

48 Downshift cable — pressure test

1 Run the engine until the normal operating temperature is reached.

2 Set the idling speed to 750 rpm (approximately).
3 Stop the engine ard raise the car to provide access to the
transmission. If jacks are used, adequately chock the wheels. Remove
the plug situated in the cut-away on the lower edge of the transmis-
sion rear extension flange and fit a pressure gauge suitable for reading
up to 100 Ibf/in? (7 kgf/cm?).
4 Lower the car to the ground and apply the footbrake and hand-
brake, as well as having the wheels chocked.
5 Start the engine and select ‘D’, and check that the gauge pressure
is between 60 and 75 Ibf/in? (4.2 and 5.3 kgf/cm?) at idle speed.
6 Increase the speed to 1000 rpm and check that the pressure
increases by 15 to 20 Ibf/in? (1.0 to 1.4 kgf/cm).
7 Stop the engine.
8 If the pressure increase is too small, increase the effective length
of the downshift outer cable. If the pressure increase is too great,
3 decrease the effective length of the downshift outer cable. Repeat the
operation until the correct pressure increase is achieved. Switch the
Fig. 6.34 Transmission sump (Sec. 44) engine off afterwards.
7 Bolt 9 Disconnect the pressure gauge and refit the plug on completion.
2 Washer
3 Sump
4 Gasket
5 Magnet
6 Drain plug

i HIGH

HOT

ere
G — HIGH

COLD

D— Low
Fig. 6.35 The transmission dipstick and filler tube (Sec. 45)
 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission 105

aA YX
i 1
—< 4
i,
LS

(Eiger Pea Se
TSS 3

KS
ot ZY.

>,
a

oe
eS ee
Fig. 6.38 Downshift cable pressure test (Sec. 48)

1 Plug 2 Pressure gauge

Fig. 6.36 Starter inhibitor/reverse light switch (Sec. 46)
49 Stall test
1 Electrical leads 3 Bolt
2 Thread protector 4 Switch This test can only be satisfactorily carried out with an engine
which is in good condition and capable of developing full power.
1 Run the engine until its normal operating temperature is achieved.
Connect a tachometer to engine if one is not fitted.
2 Chock the wheels and apply both foot and handbrakes.
3 Select ‘1’ or ‘R’ and depress the throttle to the ‘kick-down’ posi-
tion for a period not exceeding 10 seconds (to avoid overheating the
transmission). Note the tachometer reading which should be
approximately 2200 rpm. If the reading is lower than 1400 rpm,
suspect stator slip in the torque coverter; if the reading is about 1600
rpm, the engine is not developing full power; if the reading is around
2400 rpm, suspect brake band or clutch slip in the transmission unit.
4 lf the test is to be repeated, allow 10 to 15 minutes for the
transmission fluid heat to dissipate.

50 Road test to be carried out in conjunction with the fault

diagnosis procedure (Section 51)

Note: The term full throttle refers to approximately seven-eighths of

the available pedal travel and kickdown is equivalent to full pedal
travel.
Procedure
a) Check that the starter motor operates only with the selector
lever at ‘P’ or ‘N’ and that the reverse lights operate only at ‘R’.
b) Apply the handbrake. With the engine idling select ‘N-D’, ‘N-2’,
‘N-R’. Engagement should be positive (a cushioned ‘thump’
under fast idling conditions is to be expected).
c) With the transmission at normal running temperatures, select
‘D’. Release the brakes and accelerate with mininum throttle.
Check the 1—2 and 2-3 shift speeds and the smoothness of the
change.
d) Stop the vehicle, select ‘D’, then re-start using ‘full throttle’.
Check 1-2 and 2-3 shift speeds and the smoothness of the
change.
e) At 40 mph (65 km/h) apply ‘full throttle’. The car should
accelerate in third gear and should not downshift to second.
f) At a maximum speed of 58 mph (93 km/h) ‘kick-down’ fully.
The transmission should downshift to second.
g) At a maximum speed of 39 mph (62 km/h) ‘kick-down’ fully.
The transmission should downshift to first.
h) Stop the vehicle, select ‘D’, then re-start using ‘kick-down’;
check the 1-2 and 2-3 shift speeds.
Fig. 6.37 The hand turret lever (Sec. 47) j) At 30 mph (50 km/h), select ‘2’ and release the throttle; check
the 2—3 downshift.
1 T-handle 5 Electrical leads k) At 34 mph (54 km/h), select ‘1’ and release the throttle; check
2 Locking collar 6 Turret retaining screws the 2—1 downshift.
3 Console securing screws 7 Selector rod clip |) With ‘1° still engaged, stop the vehicle and using ‘kick-down’
4 Console 8 Selector rod accelerate to over 40 mph (65 km/h). Check for ‘slip’, ‘squawk’,
106 Chapter 6 Gearbox, overdrive and automatic transmission
ee
and the loss of upshifts. from rest and low stall speeds (1400 rpm), indicates that the converter
m) Stop the vehicle. Select ‘R’ and reverse at ‘full throttle’ (if stator unidirectional clutch is slipping. This permits the stator to rotate
possible), checking for ‘slip’ and ‘squawk’. in an opposite direction to the impeller and turbine, and torque mul-
n) Park the vehicle on a gradient. Apply the handbrake and select tiplication cannot occur. Poor acceleration in third gear above 30 mph
‘P’, then release the handbrake and check the parking pawl (50 km/h) and reduced maximum speed, indicates that the stator
hold. Check that the selector lever is firmly in the gate in ‘P’. unidirectional clutch has seized. The stator will not rotate with the
turbine and impeller, and the ‘fluid flywheel’ effect cannot occur. This
Converter diagnosis condition will also be indicated by excessive overheating of the
Inability to start on steep hills, combined with poor acceleration transmission although the stall speed will be satisfactory.
107

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wom duund juol14
UayO1g Qny 4a~aAUOD UO Shue} BAP dwind JUudI4
uayoug yeus iNdu|

Mechanical faults
paezias YydIN|O jeUo!NasIP-1uy)
payjeisul
Aj}9a1409u! 40 Burddijs yoyn|9 |eUONdasIP-1U/
pueg uJom JO onsas Ajjney 0} anp Bulddijs pueq 1e9y
pueq uwiom 410 Oas Ajjnej 0} anp Buiddijs pueg }u014
pepyojsip sajejd 10 pazias yojnjo weay
Buiddijs yoynjo weey
paeojsip sajejd 10 pazias yond yUOI4
Buiddijs yoynjo }UO14
Buissiw 410 Buiyans anjea 498Y4D
Chapter 6/Gearbox, overdrive and automatic

Burssiw 410 Buiyais aajea yOaYD NO, aSAUOD

Burjois saBunjd anjen yiys €-Z
Buryois anjen yiYys €-Z

pe|quwasse
The letters indicate the suggested sequence of investigation in the road test (see Section 50)

Buryous anjen yiys Z- |

Hydraulic control
Buryons aaje j0s}U09 Bd1jUC
Ajy0a1100uU! JO Bulyea] ‘HBuryoiys aajeA JOUIaAOD
Buryons anjen s0le|Npoy
Buryons anjen ajqosyy
Bulyois anjea sOje|NBas Avepuodasg
Bunjans anjen sojyejnBas Auewig
@SOO} 10 Bulssiw SMasOS YDO}q anje/,
uayoug 10 Buissiw Buu Buijeas
Buryea| 40 Buissiw ‘payjersul Ajjd9s109U! S3qgni |IO
juawysnipe pueg Jedi 199s00u|
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Adjustment
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paisnipe 10 pajqwasse AjjOa100UI 8jqed YIYSUMOG
JUSIDIVJNSU! [BAB] PIN|4
Faultd iagnosis — automatic transmi ission

Below normal speed

Above normal speed

Above normal speed
Below normal speed

Seizure reverse
Involuntary 3-2

None forward
None reverse
Seizure 1-2
Seizure 2-3

No neutral
ylysumog

yiysdy
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AujenoD
Ayeno
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51
Chapter 7 Propeller shaft
Contents
ST

Fault diagnosis— propeller shaft ........... 005s ee eee eee 5 Universal joints — dismantling and fitting new bearings
Generalidescniptiomieraced nets a ilo. ate ee cu ones Feasueemel eeonienct 1 Universal joints and splines — inspection and repair
Propeller shaft — removal andrefitting ............0+0000- 2

Specifications

Two-piece tubular, with centre bearing. Sealed universal joints with

needle roller bearings.

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft kgf m

Companion flange bolts 34 4.4

1. General description 2 Propeller shaft — removal and refitting

Engine power is transferred from the engine to the rear axle and 1 As the two piece shaft with its centre bearing is rather an unwieldy
wheels through the gearbox and a two piece tubular propeller shaft object it is better to remove the rear portion of the shaft first.
supported in the centre by a totally enclosed bearing which is bolted to 2 Jack up the rear of the car, or position the rear of the car over a pit
the underframe. Fitted at each end of the rear portion, and at the front or ramp.
end of the front portion, are universal joints which allow for vertical 3 If the rear wheels are off the ground, place the car in gear and put
movement of the rear axle. Each universal joint comprises a four the handbrake on, to ensure that the propeller shaft does not turn
legged centre spider, four needle roller bearings and two yokes when an attempt is made to loosen the four nuts securing the propeller
(photo). shaft to the rear axle.
Fore and aft movement of the rear axle is absorbed by a splined 4 The propeller shaft is carefully balanced to fine limits and it is
yoke in the front half of the propeller shaft. This sliding joint must not important for it to be refitted in exactly the same position that it was in
be dismantled and excessive wear in the splines will mean renewing prior to removal. Scratch a mark on the propeller shaft and rear axle
the front half of the propeller shaft. flanges, also on the flanges at the front end of the rear portion, and the

Fig. 7.1 Propeller shaft assembly (Sec. 2)

 Chapter 7 Propeller shaft 109

gearbox-to-propeller shaft flange, to ensure accurate mating when the repair kit, comprising new universal joint spiders, bearings, oil seals,
time comes for reassembly. and retainers purchased. Check aiso by trying to lift the shaft and
5 Remove the retaining nut and washer and disconnect the right- noticing any movement in the joints.
hand side of the rear guard strap if fitted.
6 Release the four self-locking nuts and bolts that secure the flanges
at either end of the propeller shaft rear section. Remove the rear 4 Universal joints — dismantling and fitting new bearings
section from the vehicle.
7 Release the nut, washer and bolt that secures the right-hand side 1 Clean away all traces of dirt from the whole assembly and then
of the front guard strap to the floor panel, where applicable. remove the circlips which hold each set of needle roller bearings in
8 Remove the four self-locking nuts and bolts that join the gearbox position (Fig. 7.2). If the circlip is tight, tap the face of the bearing cup
flange to the propeller shaft front section flange. Some form of support inside it which may be jamming it in its groove (photo).
should now carry the front of the shaft while the next operation is 2 The bearing should come out if the edges of the yoke ears are
being carried out. tapped with a mallet. If, however, they are very tight, it should be
9 Moving to the centre bearing housing, remove the nuts, bolts and possible to shift them by pressing them between the jaws of a vice,
washers that secure the housing to the support brackets. using two distance pieces. Two different size socket spanners are
10 The front section of the propeller shaft, complete with centre ideal, and it will be possible to force one out sufficiently far to enable it
bearing, can now be removed from the car. to be gripped by another suitable tool (pliers or vice again) and drawn
11 Refitment of the propeller shaft is a reversal of the above pro- out. Take care not to damage the yokes. An alternative method of
cedure. Make sure that the mating marks made on the rear portion removing the bearings is to use a socket and hammer. If the bearings
line up correctly. have seized up or worn so badly that the holes in the yokes are oval,
then a new yoke will be needed — and if this is on the propeller shaft
then that will have to be acquired too, as the whole assembly is
3 Yniversal joints and splines — inspection and repair balanced and parts are not supplied separately.
3 New bearings will be supplied with new seals and circlips. Make
1 Wear in the needle roller bearing is indicated by vibration or sure the needles are correctly in position and the cup 1/3 full of grease.
‘ciunks’ in the transmission, particularly when the drive is being taken 4 Fit the spider to the propeller shaft yoke (photo).
up or when going to over-run. (Backlash in the rear axle has the same 5 Engage the spider trunnion in the bearing cup and insert the cup
effect, so check that also, if symptoms occur). into the yoke (photo).
2 It is easy to check the needle roller bearings whilst the propeller 6 Fit the opposite bearing cup to the yoke and carefully press both
shaft is still in position. Try to turn the shaft with one hand and grip the cups into position, ensuring that the spider trunnion engages the cups
flange or sleeve on the other side of the joint with the other hand. and that the needle bearings are not displaced (photo).
There should be no movement between the two. If there is any, the 7 Using a suitable socket, press the cups into the yokes until they
bearings will need renewal. reach the lower land of the circlip grooves. Do not press the bearing
3. The splines of the sliding yoke should be a smooth sliding fit, and cups below this point or damage may be caused to the cups and seals
no trace of rotational backlash or damaged splines should be apparent. (photo).
4 If worn, the old bearing and spiders will have to be discarded and a 8 Fit the circlips.

4.1 Removing 4a circlip 4.5 Inserting the bearing cup in the yoke

*% aN
4.6 Fitting a bearing cup — first step 4.7 Fitting a bearing cup — second step
110 Chapter 7 Propeller shaft

Fig. 7.2 Exploded view of universal joint (Sec. 4)

1 Circlip 4 Washer
2 Cup 5 Seal
3 Needle rollers 6 Spider

5 Fault diagnosis — propeller shaft

Symptom Reason/s

Vibration Wear in sliding sleeve splines.

Worn universal joint bearings.
Propeller shaft unbalanced.
Propeller shaft bent.
Worn centre bearing.

Knock or "clunk” when taking up drive Worn universal joint bearings.

Loose bolts in flange couplings.
Differential fault.
Chapter 8 Rear axle
Contents

Differential assembly — removal and refitting ... . Halfshafts, bearings and oil seals — removal and refitting
Fault diagnosis — rear axle Pinion oil seal — removal and refitting
General description Rear axle — removal and refitting

Specifications

Live axle with hypoid bevel gears and two-pinion differential

14 pints (0.85 litres)

Ratio
Final drive 3.89 to 1

PinionibeatinGi ple lOAGMMPe. 56 o.cS 7 ot ey A tee See 15 to 18 Ibf in (0.17 to 0.21 kgf m)

Crownwheel run out

Maxirnum 0.003 in to 0.006 in (0.076 mm to 0.152 mm)
OptimUni: weasas
ae e Le- 0.005 in (0.127 mm)

Differential case maximum stretch 0.008 in (0.20 mm)

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft kgfm

FYVpoidsnousmea beaningeap retainer wren... salons
Ae gs wee 38 5a
Brake backplate attachment 16 24
(COMING CULETANICK Ian 0x Ns = een Chee 5 el aos OMe wf Sino eee 45 O.2
Drain plug = Rae 24 $3.8)
PY OOIGMIOLSGeatachnaenite . 1. Merete -ne snciteatpes clears on aoeine eile 20 2.8
Hypoid flange-to-pinion nut* 120 16.6
Hub to axle shaft 120 16.6
Halfshaft nut 85 Witev/
* Early models only — see text

axle, Support it on a firm axle stand and remove the road wheel.
1 General description 3 Remove the halfshaft nut and plain washer, then the two brake
drum fixing screws and the brake drum (photo).
The main component of the rear axle is the hypoid differential unit, 4 Attach a hub puller to the wheel mounting studs and pull the hub
which has an integral crownwheel and two-pinion differential. The off the shaft (Fig. 8.2).
crownwheel and pinions are mounted as an assembly on the differen- 5 Remove the split cotter and washer from the handbrake clevis pin
tial carrier, which is bolted to the front of the banjo-type axle housing, (photo), and withdraw the pin to disconnect the cable from the wheel
This arrangement makes it possible to remove the differential unit, cylinder operating lever.
without having to remove the rear axle. 6 Place a drip tray beneath the end of the axle to collect any spillage
The crownwheel and pinion run on opposed taper roller bearings, of oil and hydraulic fluid.
and the pre-loading of the bearings and the meshing of the crown 7 Disconnect the brake pipe from the wheel cylinder (photo).
wheel and pinion are controlled by shims. Lip-type oil seals prevent 8 Remove the four nuts, spring washers and bolts which secure the
loss of oil at the ends of the pinion and drive shafts. brake backplate to the axle casing, then take off the oil catcher and the
backplate assembly (Fig. 8.3).
9 Remove the rear hub oil seal and housing assembly and carefully
2. Halfshafts bearings and oil seals — removal and refitting drive the seal out of its housing, ensuring that the housing is not
damaged (Fig. 8.4).
1 The halfshafts may be withdrawn without disturbing the differen- 10 Remove the halfshaft key.
tial gear and the oil seals can be renewed without removing the half- 11 To remove the halfshaft, bearing and inner oil seal, screw an
snafts. Changing the bearings necessitates removing the halfshafts, impact extractor (slide hammer) onto the threaded end of the halfshaft
and if this operation is attempted without the use of a special impact and withdraw the shaft and bearing. It is not possible to remove the
extractor, it is unlikely to be successful and will probably result in shaft by a direct pull, and no part of the axle must be struck, because
damage to the shaft. This tool may be hired from some Leyland dealers this may result in damage.
or tool hire specialists. 12 Remove the inner oil seal from the end of the shaft.
2 Remove the hub cap and loosen the wheel nuts, then jack up the 13 Drive the bearing off the halfshaft.
112 Chapter 8 Rear axle

Fig. 8.1 Rear axle components (Sec. 2)

1 Nuts, washers and studs. Differential to 7 Axle casing assembly 14 Oil catcher
axle casing 8 Axle casing-to-backplate bolts, washer and 15 Oil seal housing
2 Hypoid housing assembly, complete with nuts 16 Key
gears 9 Rear oil seal 17 Gasket
3 Clip 10 Bearing, rear hub 18 Nut
4 Breather pipe 11 Gasket 19 Washer
5 Breather pipe-to-axle connector 12 Oil seal, rear hub 20 Rear hub and stud assembly
6 Screwed plug 73 Stud 21 Rear axle shaft

14 Pack the bearing with lithium based grease, such as Castro! LM paragraphs 2 to 12, noting that a new oil seal should be fitted to the oil
Grease, and dip the new oil seals in engine oil before fitting them. seal housing and a new gasket should be fitted to the end of the axle
15 Fit a new oil seal to the axle casing with the lip of the seal facing casing.
inwards. 18 Tighten the halfshaft nut to the specified torque.
16 Press the bearing on to the halfshaft until the front face of the 19 Do not forget to top-up the axle oil and brake fluid reservoir, and
bearing is 2.84 in (69.94 mm) from the threaded end of the shaft. bleed the brake hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
17 The remainder of the refitting operation is the reverse of
 Chapter 8 Rear axle 113

2.5 Handbrake lever clevis pin 2.7 Brake pipe connection

Fig. 8.3. Exploded view of backplate-to-axle casing securing

methods (Sec. 2)

7 Bolt 4 Oil catcher

2 Woodruff key 5 Front (outer) oil seal housing
3 Brake backplate

Fig. 8.2 Removing the various items prior to halfshaft removal

(Sec. 2)

1 Axleshaft casing screws Fig. 8.4 Oil seal positions (Sec. 2)

2 Brake backplate 5 Puller for removing hub
3 Wheel hub securing nut and 6 Clevis pins securing. the 1 Inner oil seal — locates in the axle casing (lip inwards)
washer handbrake cable 2 Outer (front) oil seal — locates in the oil seal housing
4 Brake drum securing 7 Brake pipe unions

and safe place.

3 Differential assembly — removal and refitting 6 Dismantling and reassembly of the differential requires special
tools and it is not advisable to attempt the job without them. A new or
1 Jack up the car and support the rear axle on firmly based stands. exchange unit should be obtained.
2 Put mating marks on the two flanges of the propeller shaft to rear 7 When refitting the differential, make sure that the joint faces of the
axle coupling, and remove the four bolts and nuts (photo). differential and the axle casing are absolutely clean, and use a new
3 With the aid of a special impact extractor and as described in gasket.
Section 2, withdraw both halfshafts until their inner ends are free of 8 Tighten the differential assembly retaining nuts to the specified
the differential pinions. torque.
4 Place a drip tray underneath the differential to catch the oil when 9 Refit the halfshafts and road wheels as the reverse of removal, and
the unit is removed, then remove the eight nuts and washers securing reconnect the propeller shaft to the rear axle.
the differential assembly to the axle casing. 10 Top up the oil in the rear axle with Castrol Hypoy or an equivalent
5 Carefully withdraw the differential assembly and place it in a clean oil.
114

14

: A Uy)

10

12
V3

1 : 4 :
Fig. 8.5 Differential assembly components (Sec. 3)

1 Nut hypoid housing 24 Hypoid housing assembly

2 Seal, oil pinion 12 Lockwasher 25 Bearing, pinion nose
3 Shims (early axle) OR 73 Bolt 26 Flange, pinion and stone
collapsible spacer (later axle) 14 Shims guard
4 Spacer 715 Thrust washer 27 Split pin
5 Dowel 16 Pinion differential (10 teeth) 28 Washer
6 Bearing cap 17 Differential gear (16 teeth) 29 Shims
7 Differential casing 718 Thrust washer 30 Pinion differential (10 teeth)
8 Spring washer 19 Cross pin 31 Bearing, differential casing to
9 Bolt 20 Thrust washer hypoid housing
710 Crownwheel and pinon 21 Shim ; 32 Thrust washer
assembly 22 Roller bearing, pinion head 33 Locating pin
11 Bearing, differential casing to 23 Bearing cap

Fig. 8.6 Removing the differential assembly (Sec. 3)

1 Aligning marks
2 Drive flange retaining nut
3 Propeller shaft-to-differential flange nuts and bolts
4 Differential carrier assembly nuts
5 Differential assembly
 Chapter 8 Rear axle 115

brake backplate lever, disconnect the cable from the rear suspension
4 Pinion oil sea! — removal and refitting bracket and from the rear axle tube clip.
5 Disconnect the brake pipe union at the flexible hose, taking care
NOTE: Early models in the range covered by this Manual use shims as not to twist the hose, then use two spanners to disconnect the hose
a method of setting the pinion bearing preload, whereas /ater models from the axle bracket. Cover or seal the ends of the pipe and the hose
use a Collapsible pinion spacer. The torque wrench setting for the to prevent loss of fluid and the entry of dirt.
pinion flange nut on earlier models is given in the Specifications, but if 6 Remove the nuts, washers and bushes securing the radius rods to
this torque is used on later models the collapsible spacer will collapse the axle casing, then remove the nuts and bolts securing the rear
completely, necessitating a complete strip of the differential assembly. suspension arms to the axle (photo).
Later models have a protective cap fitted over the pinion flange nut for 7 Raise the axle and then with an assistant steadying it on the jack,
identification, but if there is any doubt about the type of axle fitted to slide the jack rearwards until the axle is clear of the suspension arms.
your car, contact your Leyland dealer quoting the axle serial number. 8 Lower the axle on the jack and remove it from beneath the car.
When tightening the pinion flange nut on later models, follow the 9 When refitting the axle, position it underneath the car and support
procedure given in this Section. the differential on a jack.
1 If possible, position the car over a pit, or have the rear of the car on 10 Raise the jack until the axle is above the ends of the radius arms,
a ramp to give a good working clearance underneath. engage the rear ends of the radius rods through the axle brackets, then
2 Put mating marks on the two faces of the propeller shaft to rear fit the washers, nuts and split cotters.
axle drive flange, remove the four nuts and bolts, and separate the two 11 Lower the jack until the axle casing engages the ends of the
halves of the flange. suspension arms, then fit and tighten the bolts.
3 Tie the free end of the propeller shaft out of the way. 12 Reconnect the propeller shaft to the rear axle.
4 Place a drip tray beneath the nose of the differential to collect any
oil spillage.
5 Early type axles: Prevent the flange from rotating, by inserting two
bolts in the flange and placing a metal bar between them. While the
bar is being held, the nut can be unscrewed and the washer removed.
6 Later type axles: Remove the nut shield, then carefully mark the
installed position of the flange, pinion shaft and nut using a centre
punch. Remove the nut and washer as described in paragraph 5, but Py
count the exact number of turns required to unscrew the nut.
7 Using a puller, draw the splined drive flange off the shaft. If no
puller is available, the flange may be tapped off, using a soft faced
mallet, or a hammer and a block of wood.
8 Prise out the oil seal, using a screwdriver and taking care not to
damage the oil seal housing.
9 Soak the replacement oil seal in engine oil for one hour, then fit it
into the housing with its lip facing inwards.
10 Early type axles: Refit the flange to the splines, then fit the nut and
washer. Tighten the nut to the specified torque while preventing the
flange from turning.
11 Later type axles: Refit the flange to the splines, so that the centre
punch marks are aligned, then fit the nut and washer. Screw on the nut
by the exact number of turns counted when removing, finally aligning
the centre punch marks, while at the same time preventing the flange
from turning. Install the nut shield.
12 Check the level of oil in the axle and top up if necessary (photo).
13 Reconnect the propeller shaft and the rear axle.

Fig. 8.7 Removing the pinion oil seal (typical) (Sec. 4)

Drive flange retaining nut (split pin not shown)
5 Rear axle — removal and refitting
Aligning marks
Propeller shaft-to-drive flange nuts and bolts
1 Jack-up the rear of the car and support the body on firmly based
Socket spanner removing the nut while the drive flange is locked
stands, then place a jack underneath the differential.
Special tool that prevents drive flange turning while the nut is being
2 Remove the hub caps and the rear wheels.
removed
3 Put mating marks on the two faces of the propeller shaft to rear
Drive flange puller
axle coupling, remove the four nuts and bolts and separate the two
NDOil seal
AAwWNH™
halves of the coupling.
4 Remove the clevis pins connecting the handbrake cable to the

3.2 Differential flange coupling bolts 4.12 Rear axle filler/level plug 5.6 Rear axle to rear suspension arm fixing
116 Chapter 8 Rear axle

13 Reconnect the handbrake cables to the axle clips, suspension 14 Reconnect the brake hoses and bleed the braking system (Chapter
brackets and backplate levers. 9 Section 2).

6. Rear axle breather

——_—_——

6 Fault diagnosis — rear axle

Symptom Reasons

Vibration Worn axleshaft bearings

Loose drive flange bolts

Excessive noise Insufficient lubricant

Incorrect lubricant
Excessive wear

‘Clunk’ on acceleration or deceleration Incorrect meshing of crownwheel and pinion

Excessive backlash of gears
Worn splines on axleshaft or pinion
Loose drive flange bolts
Propeller shaft fault

Oil leakage Faulty oil seal

Blocked axle housing breather (photo)
Chapter 9 Braking system
Contents

Brake master cylinder — removal, overhaul and ieiihadite| oaookoc 4 Rrontdisc brakeicalipen— OVenhauliesevervis
sheryl ieteense uence 16
Brake pedal and stoplight switch — removal and refitting ...... 8 Front disc brake calipers — removal and refitting ............ 14
Brake servo non-return valve and filter— renewal ............ v Handbrake:—adjustmentiie 1 ci. c5. 212s oeke pelea cece enema 10
BLaKersehvounit description: = and ski ana
es sania oe 5 Handbrake cable — removal and refitting .................. 11
Brake servo unit — removal and refitting .................. 6 Handbrake lever assembly — removal, overhaul and refitting .... 9
Brakersystemi: bleeding mam ernie vis.
tasea inne oe 2 Hydraulic pipes — inspection, removal and refitting .......... 3
Ee UIT HERDS CRO IS wr NR ikem ncad ow Ae pute ce 1 Rear brake backplates — removal and refitting .............. 19
Fault diagnosis —brakingjsystem) = 4...<.002..20. 5000. .0-: 20 Rear brake shoes — inspection, removal and refitting ......... 17
Front brake discs — removal and refitting ................. 13 Rear brake wheel cylinder — removal, inspection, overhaul
Front brake disc shields — removal and refitting ............. 15 andireassempbly:- iccsis ote. a:cmemave zo ale ode thats Se oraeeee ae en wena 18
Front brake pads — removal and refitting ...............05. 2

Specifications

SYSCOIMN CV DO ae erro eet eaetancl rede ee os AM A ae Hydraulic, vacuum servo assisted

Front brakes
ERISCICATINGTChiae et rae eee es Tcl eeects aa ths Ne asCo aes: 83 in (222 mm)
0.006 in (0.152 mm)
% in (1.6 mm)

Drum, leading and trailing shoe

8 in diameter x 13 in wide (204 x 38 mm)

IRV
De ope eee cette: Raed choy fevteinsos ) Uiaslas calamity ateats relives alate Petastes Direct acting
2.2 to 1 nominal

Type Centrally mounted lever, operating rear brakes mechanically

SAE J1703C

Torque wrench settings Ibf ft kgf m

Brake master cylinder and servo to body ..........-ee
eee eueee 14 1.9
Brakepedalimountingnemey rt ctaite a ss oleuueeemolste
ce helrageueis) ocaca 20 2.8
Brake pedal support bracket to scuttle (angled bolts) 9 1.2
Brake pedal support bracket to scuttle (vertical bolts) ............ 45 6.2
Handbrakevand bracketiclampito TOON © cis. ce ne eee nos ws eee 9 V2
Handbrake cable to abutment bracket on floor ...............+. se) ez
Handbrake fulcrum pin 24 3.3
Master cylinder support bracket to turret ... 0... 2.0 c cece ne enae 20 2.8

the brake pads, and these are then pressed against the brake disc.
1 Disc/Drum brakes — general description Two rubber seals are fitted to each cylinder of the caliper. The
outer seal prevents dirt and moisture from entering the cylinder. The
Disc brakes are fitted to the front wheels of all models and drum inner seal, which is retained in a groove in the cylinder bore, prevents
brakes of the single, leading shoe type to the rear. The mechanically fluid leakage. It also provides a running clearance for the pad, irrespec-
operated handbrake works on the rear wheels only. tive of pad wear, by moving the pad back a very small amount when
The front brakes are of the rotating disc and static caliper type, pressure is released.
with one caliper per disc. Each caliper has two pistons and when the As the friction pads wear, the pistons move further out of their
brakes are applied, the rotating disc is pinched by the caliper. cylinders, automatically taking up the wear. This causes the level of
Pressing the brake pedal creates hydraulic pressure in the master hydraulic fluid in the reservoir to fall.
cylinder and this pressure is transmitted by steel and flexible pipes to The rear brakes have a single cylinder, operating both shoes. A
the piston on each side, of the caliper. The pistons are in contact with lever assembly is fitted betwen the two shoes of each brake unit and
118

Fig. 9.1 Layout of braking system (Sec. 1)

1 Offside flexible hose 4 Master cylinder

2 Nearside flexible hose 5 Four-way pipe union
3 Rear flexible hose

2.6 Bleed nipple, with spanner and tubing attached 3.4 Flexible hose connection. Keep hexagon at hose end from turning
when removing hose
 Chapter 9 Braking system 119
SS

attached to this, is a system of cables connecting the brake to the which it will be necessary to bleed the system as described in Section
handbrake lever. The rear brake cylinders are fitted with ratchet 2e
adjusters, which operate automatically to take up wear.
Connected to the brake pedal is a vacuum operated servo unit, on
which is mounted the master cylinder. The servo boosts the pressure 4 Brake master cylinder — removal, overhaul and refitting
applied to the brake pedal, giving high braking pressures, without the
need for high pedal effort. 1 Ensure that the handbrake is on and effective.
2 Remove the bolt which secures the earth wires and the front end
of the master cylinder bracket to the valance.
2 Brake system — bleeding .3 Slacken slightly the two nuts which secure the bracket and master
cylinder to the servo. Do not remove them, but make sure that they
1 Removal of all air from the hydraulic system is essential for the can be removed easily when required.
correct working of the braking system; but before undertaking this, 4 Disconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder and plug the hole
obtain a small clean jar, a 9 inch (230 mm) length of tubing of a size with a finger to prevent loss of fluid.
suitable for fitting over the bleed nipples and a tin of the correct type of 5 Remove the slackened nuts; withdraw the master cylinder and
brake fluid. j empty the fluid from the reservoir into a suitable container. Cover the
2 Chock the wheels and release the handbrake. To gain better end of the brake pipe to prevent the ingress of dirt.
access to the bleed nipples, it may be found easier to jack the wheel 6 Apply a low pressure air line to the fluid outlet and eject the piston
while the cylinder is being bled. and seal assembly from the cylinder. Hold a piece of cloth over the end
3 Check all brake line unions and connections for signs of leaking to prevent the piston from falling to the floor, or becoming lost.
and at the same time examine the flexible hoses to ensure that none 7 Release the piston from the spring thimble, by straightening the
are perished. If there is any doubt about the condition of the wheel thimble prong. The valve stem can then be slid out of the keyhole slot.
cylinders, check them for signs of leakage. 8 Slide the valve spring spacer along the valve stem and remove the
4 Enlist the help of an assistant and, starting with the front brake seal from the stem.
which is furthest from the master cylinder, proceed as follows: 9 Remove the old seai from the piston.
5 Check that the master cylinder reservoir is full and if not, fill it with 10 Examine the bore of the cylinder carefully for any signs of scores or
clean hydraulic fluid. ridges; if this is found to be smooth all over, new seals can be fitted. If
6 With the assistant in a position to operate the brake pedal, fit the there is any doubt about the condition of the bore, a new cylinder must
tubing over the bleed nipple (photo) after removing the dust cap (if be fitted.
fitted). Dip the other end of the tube into the jar and pour in brake fluid 11 If examination of the seals shows them to be apparently oversize
to a depth sufficient to cover the end of the tube. or swollen, or very loose on the plunger, suspect oil contamination in
7 Open the bleed nipple by unscrewing it about half a turn, then in- the system. Ordinary lubrication oil will swell these rubber seals, and if
struct the assistant to push the pedal down fully and hold it down until one is found to be swollen it is reasonable to assume that all seals in
the bleed nipple has been closed again. When the bleed nipple has the braking system will need renewal.
been closed, instruct the assistant to release the pedal. 12 Thoroughly clean all parts in methylated spirits. Ensure that the
8 Repeat this operation as many times as is necessary until there are bypass ports are clean.
no signs of any bubbles in the fluid when the pedal is pressed, but 13 All components should be assembled wet by dipping in clean
pause after every third or fourth cycle to top up the level of fluid in the brake fluid. Fit a new valve seal the correct way round so that the flat
reservoir, using new fluid only, and not fluid which has been pumped side is seating on the valve head. Place the spring dished washer with
out. This is very important, because if the reservoir becomes empty, or the dome against the underside of the valve head. Hold it in position
if ejected fluid is used, air will enter the system nullifying all the pre- with the valve spacer, ensuring that the legs face towards the valve
vious work. It is equally important that the brake pedal is never seal.
released unless the bleed nipple is closed. 14 Refit the piston return spring centrally on the spacer; insert the
9 Carry out the same sequence on the other front brake, the rear spring thimble into the spring and depress it, until the valve shank
brake cylinder with the two brake pipes attached to it, and finally the engages in the keyhole of the thimble.
rear brake cylinder with the single pipe attached to it. 15 Ensure that the spring is central on the spacer, then fit a new seal
10 When the system has been bled completely, the pedal action onto the piston, with the flat face against the face of the piston.
should be very firrn, with no suspicion of spring, or sponginess. If any is 16 Insert the tapered end of the piston into the spring thimble until
still present, it is likely that one of the seals in the master cylinder has the leaf engages under the shoulder of the piston, and press home the
failed.

3 Hydraulic pipes — inspection, removal and refitting

1. Inspection of the braking system hydraulic pipes and flexible hoses

is part of the 3000 mile (5000 km) maintenance schedule. Carefully
check the rigid pipes along the rear axle, underbody and in the engine
compartment, not forgetting the short runs to the front wheel calipers.
Any pipes showing signs of corrosion or damage should be renewed,
following which it will be necessary to bleed the system as described
previously.
2 Carefully inspect the flexible hoses. There is one flexible pipe to
the rear axle, and one on each suspension arm. Look for any signs of
swellings, cracking and/or chafing. If any of these defects are evident,
renew the hoses without delay, to avoid the risk of brake failure.
3 Where flexible hoses are to be renewed, unscrew the metal pipe
union nut from its connection to the hose, and then holding the
hexagon on the hose with a spanner, unscrew the attachment nut and
washer, taking care not to allow the hose to twist.
4 After removing the nut, withdraw the end of the hose from its
mounting bracket (photo).
5 Disconnect the flexible hydraulic hose at the backplate by un-
screwing it from the brake cylinder. Fig. 9.2 Master cylinder removal (Sec. 4)
Note: When releasing the hose from the backplate, the chassis end
must always be freed first. 1 Brake pipe union 3 Rear securing bolt
6 Refitting is a straight reversal of the removal procedure, following 2 Front securing bolt
120 Chapter 9 Braking system

ATIC

Fig. 9.4 Sectional view of servo unit (Sec. 6)

1 Front shell 13 Control valve

2 Sealand plate assembiy 14 Filter
3. Retainer (sprag washer) 15 Dust cover
4 Pushrod — hydraulic 16 Endcap
5 Diaphragm return spring 17 Valve operating rod assembly
6 O-ring 18 Bearing
7 Non-return valve 19 Retainer
8 Rear shell 20 Control piston
9 Diaphragm 21 Valve retaining plate
10 Diaphragm plate 22 Reaction disc
711. Vacuum port 23 Atmospheric port
Fig. 9.3 The component parts of the master cylinder (Sec. 4) 12 Seal

1 Master cylinder reservoir 6 Spacer Insets:

2 Assembled piston 7 Return spring A Control valve closed, contro! piston moved forward atmospheric
3 Valve seal 8 Piston seal port open
4 Valve stem 9 Piston B Pressure from diaphragm plate causes reaction disc to extrude,
5 Spring thimble 10 Spring cup washer presses back control piston and closes atmospheric port

leaf. is cut off and the chamber opened to atmospheric pressure. The con-
17 Check that the master cylinder bore is clean, and smear with clean sequent rush of air pushes the servo piston forward in the vacuum
brake fluid. With the piston wetted with brake fluid, carefuily insert the chamber and operates the main pushrod to the master cylinder. The
assembly into the bore with the valve end first. Ease the lips of the controls are designed so that assistance is given under all conditions
piston seal carefully into the bore. and when the brakes are not required, vacuum in the rear chamber is
18 Refit the master cylinder to the servo, and the earth leads to the established when the brake pedal is released. Air from the atmosphere
securing bolt on the valance. i entering the rear chamber is passed through a small air filter.
19 Reconnect the hydraulic pipes, top-up the reservoir and bleed the
system as described in Section 2.
6 Brake servo unit — removal and refitting

5 Brake servo unit — description 1 Unscrew the hose clip and disconnect the vacuum hose from the
non-return valve.
A vacuum servo unit is fitted into the brake hydraulic circuit in 2 Remove the bolt and washers which secure the earth wires and
series with the master cylinder, to provide power assistance to the the master cylinder bracket.
driver when the brake is depressed. 3 Remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the bracket and
The unit operates by vacuum obtained from the induction manifold master cylinder flange to the servo, and remove the bracket.
and comprises basically abooster diaphragm and a non-return valve. 4 Taking care to avoid damaging the master cylinder outlet pipe,
The servo unit and hydraulic master cylinder are connected ease the master cylinder clear of the servo.
together so that the servo unit piston rod acts as the master cylinder 5 Remove the split cotter, plain washer and clevis pin connecting
pushrod. The driver's braking effort is transmitted through another the servo operating rod to the brake pedal.
pushrod to the servo unit piston and built-in control system. The servo 6 Remove the four nuts and washers securing the servo to the
unit piston is attached to a diaphragm, which forms an air tight seal scuttle and lift the servo out from the engine compartment.
between the parts of the servo body shell. The forward chamber is held Note: // the servo is faulty it is recommended that a service exchange
under vacuum conditions created in the inlet manifold of the engine unit is fitted rather than an attempt made to repair it because only
and during periods when the brake pedal is not in use, the controls minor replacement parts are available.
open a passage to the rear chamber so placing it under vacuum. When 7 When refitting the servo, first secure it to the scuttle with the nuts
the brake pedal is depressed, the vacuum passage to the rear chamber and spring washers, then engage the brake pedal in the pushrod fork
 Chapter 9 Braking system 121

and fit the clevis pin.

8 Refit the master cylinder in the reverse order to its removal, and
refit and clamp the vacuum pipe..

7 Brake servo non-return vaive and filter — renewal

UE
EIEIO

1 To remove the non-return valve, first destroy the vacuum in the

servo, by depressing the brake pedal when the engine is not running.
2 Slacken the clip securing the hose to the valve and remove the
hose.
3 Pull the non-return valve and its seal out of the servo housing
4 When fitting a non-return valve, ensure that the seal is in good
condition. Fit the seal to the valve and then press it into the servo
housing.
5 Fit the vacuum hose and tighten the clamp.
7 Under normal conditions the filter will not need renewal, but after
a very high mileage, or if the servo has to be removed at any time, it is
worth fitting a new filter.
8 Remove the servo as described in Section 6, then remove the
rubber boot and end cap.
9 Pull the filter out of the neck of the housing, fit the new filter, and
refit the end cap and rubber boot.
10 Refit the servo to the car.

8 Brake pedal and stoplight switch — removal and refitting

1 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the parcel shelf.

2 Working inside the car, extract the split cotter nin and remove the
plain washer from the end of the clevis pin securing the master
cylinder pushrod yoke to the pedal.
3 Disconnect the pedal return spring.
4 Toremove the pedal from the bracket, unscrew the nylon nut and
withdraw the bolt retaining the pedal assembly in the bracket. Lift
away the pedal assembly return spring and distance tube from the
support bracket.
5 Clean the component parts and check the pedal bushes for wear,
by refitting the distance tube. If excessive rocking movement is
Fig. 9.6 Brake pedal components (Sec. 8)
evident, carefully drive out the old bushes and insert new ones.
6 Reassembling and refitting the pedal is the reverse sequence to Pedal bracket
removal. Bush
7 ‘If it is required to remove the brake pedal mounting bracket, it will Distance tube
also be necessary to remove the facia (Chapter 12) and the Pivot bolt
windscreen wiper linkage (Chapter 10). Pedal
8 The brake stop light switch is near the top of the brake pedal lever Bush
(photo). Having located it, disconnect the two ‘Lucar’ connectors. Locknut
9 Slacken the !arge hexagon nut and unscrew the switch from the Bracket securing bolts
nut, which, together with the washer, can remain in situ. Connection hole for master cylinder yoke
10 When a new switch is fitted, take care not to overtighten the nut, O Return spring
~DANDAAWNH™
or the plastic threads of the switch may be damaged. A little time is
necessary to set the adjustment for a new switch. Remember that the
ignition-must be switched on to get the battery feed to the switch.

Hae lh
8.8 Brake light switch

Fig. 9.5 Removing the non-return valve (Sec. 7)

122 Chapter 9 Braking system
ne

5 Remove the handbrake lever rubber gaiter and, using a socket,

9 Handbrake lever assembly — removal, overhaul and refitting undo and remove the four handbrake assembly floor mounting bolts.
6 Pull the handbrake lever assembly upwards and forwards so as to
1 Chock the front wheels, release the handbrake, jack up the rear of expose the cable attachment clevis pin. Extract the split cotter, lift
the car and support on firmly based stands. away the plain washer and withdraw the clevis pin.
2 Working under the car, extract the split cotter securing the com- 7 Lift the handbrake lever assembly away from the inside of the car.
pensator clevis pin. Lift away the plain washer and withdraw the clevis 8 Todismantle the handbrake assembly, remove the nut and fulcrum
pin noting that the head is uppermost. pin from the handbrake mounting bracket. Withdraw the ratchet and
3 Working inside the car, take out the two bolts securing each front bushes from the handbrake lever.
seat slide to the floor panel and lift away the two front seats. 9 Using an electric drill, cut away the riveted head of the pawl
4 Fold back the carpet to fully expose the handbrake lever. fulcrum pin. With a suitable diameter parallel pin punch, drive out the

7 Pawl, handbrake Setscrew 2g Plug

2 Ratchet Nut 30 Clevis pin
3 Clamp plate, between handbrake and boot Spring washer 31 Washers
4 Boot Split pin 32 Split pin
5 Split pin Washer 33 Grip, handbrake lever
6 Washer Fork end, handbrake cable 34 Spring, pawl release
7 Clevis pin Nut - locking 35 Rod assembly, pawl release
8 Compensator link cable Pin, clevis 36 Lever, handbrake
9 Bracket — handbrake mounting Nut 37 Compensator (handbrake)
Washer Handbrake cable assembly 38 Locknut
Pin, fulcrum, handbrake lever Grommet handbrake cable 39 Pin fulcrum — pawl to lever
Bush Nut 40 Bolt
Spring washer Washer 41 Washer
Bolt Spring compensator support 42 Bush
 Chapter 9 Braking system 123

pin and remove the pawl. 6 Withdraw the cable sheath rearwards clear of the front bracket
10 The handbrake button and spring will tend to fly off unless and ease the cable wire downwards.
restrained, when the pawl is removed. Withdraw the release rod 7 Release the nipple on the front end of the cable from the hand-
button and spring. brake compensator, and withdraw the cable.
11 The parts should be cleaned and the teeth of the ratchet segment 8 Engage the nipple on the front end of the cable in the handbrake
and pawl examined for wear. Also examine the handbrake lever for compensator.
cracks, and the various holes for ovality. Obtain new parts if worn. 9 Slide the cable sheath in the bracket. Fit the bolt, plain washers
12 To reassemble, first fit the spring over the release rod, apply a little and nut. Do not overtighten the pinch bolt. Slide the rubber boot
general purpose grease to the rod and spring, and insert both through rearwards to engage the cable sheath.
the hole in the grip. 10 Thread the cable fork through the bracket on the axle casing.
13 Holding the grip in one hand, depress the button at the end of the 11 Insert the rubber bush and cable sheath into the axle casing clip.
release rod with the thumb and fit the radiused lug of the pawl into the 12 Attach the cable sheath rear support to the suspension bracket
hooked end of the release rod. and secure it with the nut.
14 Carefully line up the hole in the pawl with the holes in the lever 13 Adjust the fork at the rear end of the cable so that the clevis pin
and insert the pin after it has been lightly greased. Rivet over the end engages the fork and backplate lever, ensuring that the handbrake
of the pin. compensator remains central.
15 Refitting the handbrake lever assembly is the reverse sequence to 14 Fit a new split cotter to each clevis pin and apply two or three
removal. drops of engine oil to the pivot points. If adjustment of the cable is
necessary, refer to the previous Section in this Chapter.
15 Lower the car to the ground and remove the chocks from the front
10 Handbrake — adjustment wheels.

1 The handbrake adjustment is normally taken up automatically as

the rear brakes adjust themselves. However, after a very high mileage, 12 Front brake pads — removal and refitting
it is possible that the cables will have stretched slightly and will,
therefore, require some adjustment. 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
2 To adjust the cables, first chock the front wheels effectively, the car and support on firmly based axle stands. Remove the
release the handbrake, then raise the rear wheels. Support the rear of roadwheel (photo).
the car on firmly based axle stands. 2 Extract the two pad retaining pin spring clips and withdraw the
3 Remove the clevis pins from the fork ends behind the rear back- two retaining pins (photos).
plates. 3 Lift away the brake pads and anti-rattle shims noting which way
4 Operate the handbrake lever on the rear backplates to ensure that round the shims are fitted (photo).
minimim shoe/drum clearance exists. 4 Inspect the thickness of the lining material and, if it is less than %
5 Whilst maintaining the handbrake cable compensator in the inch (1.6 mm) the pads must be renewed. If one of the pads is slightly
central position, adjust the cable forks, so that the clevis pins can be more worn that the other, it is permissible to change these round.
entered without straining the cables at all. 5 If new pads are being fitted, always renew them with high quality
6 Fit the clevis pins and new split cotters and apply two or three branded pads and check that they are the correct part number for the
drops of engine oil to the pivot points. model to which they are being fitted.
7 Check that the locknuts on the cable ends are tight, then lower the 6 When renewing pads, due to their additional thickness, it will be
car to the ground and remove the chocks from the front wheels. necessary to press the pistons back further into the bores. At the same
time, the fluid level in the master cylinder will rise and it may be
necessary to remove some fluid from the reservoir to prevent its over-
11 Handbrake cable — removal and refitting flowing.
7 Fit the new pads in the reverse sequence to removal, noting that
1 Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and support the arrows on the anti-squeal shims point in the direction of rotation of
with stands or blocks. Release the handbrake. the disc (photo).
2 Disconnect the cable fork from the backplate lever by removing 8 Check the level of fluid in the reservoir then repeat the operation
the split cotter and clevis pin. Remove the nut securing the cable rear for the other caliper.
support to the suspension bracket and detach the cable support. 9 It is not normally necessary to bleed the brakes afterwards, but on
3. Release the cable sheath and rubber bush from the clip on the axle completion always road test the car to bed the brakes in and check for
casing. braking efficiency and any ‘sponginess’ of the pedal. If found
4 Withdraw the cable fork through the bracket on the axle casing. necessary, bleed the system as described in Section 2.
5 Remove the pinch bolt, nut and plain washers from the cable 10 Always discard any brake fluid which was taken out of the system
sheath front bracket. when repositioning the pistons.

nee Ae ke Me
12.1 Front brake assembly 12.2a Pad retaining spring clip 12.2b Withdrawing a retaining pin
124 Chapter 9 Braking system

12.3 Removing a brake pad and shim

13 Front brake discs — removal and refitting

1. Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and support on firmly based axle stands. Remove the road
wheel.
2 Remove the caliper assembly as described in the following
Section. ;
3 Using a wide bladed screwdriver ease off the hub grease cap.
4 Straighten the hub nut retainer locking split pin ears and extract
the split pin. Remove the nut retainer, then undo and remove the nut
and splined washer.
5 Withdraw the complete front hub assembly from the spindle as
described in Chapter 11.
6 To separate the disc from the hub, first mark*the relative position
of the hub and disc. Undo and remove the four bolts securing the hub
to the disc and separate the two parts.
7 To refit the disc to the hub, make sure that the mating faces are
clean and then line up the previously made alignment marks if the
original parts are to be used. Secure with the four bolts, which should
be tightened in a progressive and diagnoal manner to a final torque
wrench setting of 38 to 45 Ibf ft (5.25 to 6.22 kgf m).
8 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal, but the following
additional points should be noted:

a) Before refitting the caliper, check the disc run-out at a 4.75 in

(120 mm) radius of the disc, The run-out must not exceed
0.006 in (0.152 mm). lf necessary. remove the disc and check
for dirt on the mating faces. Should these be clean re-position
the disc on the hub.
b) The hub bearing endfloat, must be adjusted as described in
Chapter 717.
Fig. 9.8 Section through front wheel hub showing the brake disc
(Sec. 13)

14 Front disc brake calipers — removal and refitting 1 Disc

1 Apply the handbrake, chock the rear wheels, jack up the front of
the car and support it on firmly based stands. Remove the road wheel. De
2 Wipe the top of the master cylinder reservoir, unscrew the cap and 7 After bleeding, depress the pedal several times to set the pads to
place a piece of polythene sheet over the top. Refit the cap. This is to their correct operating positions.
stop hydraulic fluid draining out during subsequent operations.
3 Wipe the area around the caliper flexible hose/metal pipe union
and also the metal pipe/caliper connection. Unscrew the union nuts, 15 Front brake disc shields — removal and refitting
and lift away the metal pipe.
4 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers securing the 1 The lower disc shield can be removed after first taking out the
caliper to the vertical link. Lift the caliper from the disc. - bolts and spring washers which secure the lower balljoint and steering
5 Refitting the caliper is the reverse sequence to removal. The two arm to the vertical link.
caliper securing bolts should each be tightened to a torque wrench 2 Toremove the upper disc shield, take out the upper bolt and spring
setting of 50 Ibf ft (6.9 kgf m). washer which secure the caliper, then the two bolts and spring
6 Oncompletion, bleed the hydraulic system as described in Section washers which secure the shield to the vertical link.
 Chapter 9 Braking system 125

open so as bleed the system, and then close the nipple. Depress the
footbrake again and this will push the piston in the rim half of the
caliper outwards. Release the dust cover retaining ring and the cover.
Depress the footbrake again until the piston has been ejected suf-
ficiently to continue removal by hand. It is advisable to have a con-
tainer or tray available to catch any hydraulic fluid once the piston is
removed.
4 Using a tapered wooden rod or an old plastic knitting needle,
carefully extract the fluid seal from its bore in the caliper half.
5 Remove the G-clamp from the mounting half piston. Temporarily
refit the rim half piston and repeat the operations in paragraphs 3 and
4.
6 Thoroughly clean the internal parts of the caliper using methylated
spirits. Any other fluid cleaner will damage the internal seals.
Do not separate the two haives of the caliper.
7 Inspect the caliper bores and pistons for signs of scoring and if
evident, a new assembly should be fitted.
8 To reassemble the caliper, first wet a new fluid seal with clean
brake fluid and carefully insert it into its groove in the rim half of the
caliper seating, ensuring that it is correctly fitted. Refit the dust cover
into its special groove in the cylinder.
9 Release the bleed screw in the caliper one complete turn. Coat the
side of the piston with hydraulic fluid and with it positioned squarely in
the top of the cylinder bore, ease the piston in until approximately 2 in
(8 mm) is left protruding. Engage the outer lip of the dust cover in the
piston groove and push the piston into the cylinder as far as it will
go.Fit the dust cover retaining ring.
Fig. 9.9 Disc brake caliper mounting details (Sec. 14) 10 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 8 and 9 for the mounting half
of the caliper.
1 Flexible hose 3 Caliper retaining bolts 11 Fit the pads and anti-squeal shims into the caliper and retain in
2 Brake pipe union connection 4 Caliper body position with the two pins and spring clips.
to caliper 12 Refit the caliper assembly.

3 In both cases the refitting procedure is the reverse of the removal

sequence. 17 Rear brake shoes — inspection, removal and refitting

1 Chock the front wheels, then raise the relevant road wheel.
16 Front disc brake caliper — overhaul Support the car on an axle stand, then release the handbrake.
2 Remove the road wheel, then take out the countersunk-head
1 Remove the caliper as described in Section 14. Extract the two screws which are used to secure the brake drum and remove the drum
pad retaining pin spring clips and withdraw the two retaining pins. (photo). This may require tapping outwards around its periphery using
2 Lift away the brake pads and anti-squeal shims, noting which way a soft-faced mallet.
round the shims are fitted. 3. The brake linings should be renewed.if they are so worn that the
3 Temporarily reconnect the caliper to the hydraulic system. Do not rivet heads are flush with the surface of the lining. If bonded linings are
allow the caliper to hang on the flexible hose but, supporting its weight fitted, they must be renewed when the lining material has worn down
using a small G-clamp, hold the piston in the mounting half of the to 4 in (1.6 mm) at its thinnest point.
caliper. Carefully depress the foot-brake pedal! with the bleed nipple 4 To remove the brake shoes, first spring the self adjuster operating

LLL
S
GAVAAAARANANVARS
So
SS
PESSSSSSSSS

Fig. 9.10 Front disc brake caliper components parts (Sec. 16)

Pad 6 Sealing ring Inset: Correct fitted pasition of piston seal and dust cover
Anti-squeal shim 7 Spring clip 1 Piston seal
Dust cover retaining ring 8 Retaining pin 2 Dust cover
Dust cover 9 Bleed screw 3 Piston
Piston 10 Caliper body
126 Chapter 9 Braking system

17.2 Rear brake with drum removed 17.4 Brake shoe adjuster and ratchet wheel 17.6 Brake shoe steady pin

17.14 Correct position for upper spring 17.16 Correct position for lower spring

lever on the underside of the wheel cylinder clear of the ratchet wheel fitted inboard (photo).
(photo). 17 Engage the leading shoe in the handbrake operating lever, ensur-
5 Rotate the ratchet wheel as far as possible, to release the brake ing that the lever pad is properly located in the shoe web.
adjustment. 18 Fit the trailing shoe into the slot in the adjuster spindle.
6 Remove the brake shoe steady cups, springs and pins (photo). 19 Refit the brake shoe steady pins, springs and cups.
7 Release the leading shoe (ie, the one operated by the wheel 20 Centralize the brake shoes, then refit the brake drum and
cylinder piston) from the anchor plate at the top and then from the roadwheel.
wheel cylinder at the bottom. 21 Lower the car to the ground and operate the handbrake lever
8 Repeat the procedure for the trailing shoe. several times to adjust the position of the shoes. It will not normally be
9 Disconnect the shoe return springs and pull the brake shoes taking necessary to bleed the brakes, unless any fluid has escaped from the
care that the wheel cylinder piston does not come out. Strong rubber system during the time when the brake shoes were removed.
bands can be used to hold the pistons in place. On no account should
the brake pedal be depressed whilst the brake shoes and drums are off.
10 Thoroughly clean all traces of dust from the shoes, backplates and 18 Rear brake wheel cylinder — removal, inspection, overhaul and
brake drums using a stiff brush Tne use of compressed air is not reassembly
recommended. Brake dust impairs the efficiency of braking, so that it is
important to clean out the brakes thoroughly. 1 Remove the brake drum and shoes as described in Section 17.
11 Check that the piston is free in its cylinder, that the dust covers are Clean the rear of the backplate, using a stiff brush. Place a quantity of
undamaged and in position, and that there are no hydraulic fluid leaks. rag or a tray under the backplate to catch any hydraulic fluid that may
Ensure that the handbrake lever assembly is free and also that the issue from the open pipe or wheel cylinder.
brake adjuster operates correctly. Unscrew the adjuster fully, cleanthe 2 Place a piece of polythene under the reservoir cap and screw
threads then smear them with a little ‘Castro! PH Grease’ and refit down the cap tightly. Carefully detach the hydraulic pipe from the rear
them. Adjust the ratchet wheel so that the adjuster spindle is fully into of the wheel cylinder. The left-hand rear cylinder has only one feed
the wheel cylinder recess, and ensure that the brake shoe locating slot pipe while the right-hand cylinder has a feed pipe and a transfer pipe.
is vertical. Also disconnect the handbrake cable from the handbrake lever
12 Prior to reassembly, smear a little ‘Castrol PH Grease’ on to the assembly at the rear of the backplate, by removing the split cotter and
sliding surfaces of the backplate. Check that the wheel cylinder is free extracting the clevis pin, noting that the head is uppermost. Remove
to move in the slot in the backplate (If it is found that the wheel the rubber boot.
cylinder is not free to move, it should be removed as described in the 3 Using a wide bladed screwdriver, separate the horseshoe clip and
following Section). wheel cylinder retaining spring plate and carefully pull the horseshoe
13 Taking great care that no grease or dirt is allowed to contact the clip towards the front of the car.
brake lining material, arrange the shoes in the manner in which they 4 Withdraw the handbrake lever assernbly from the wheel cylinder,
will be offered up to the backplate. followed by the spring plate and shaped distance washer which is held
14 Engage the upper spring ends in the webs of the shoes, with the in position by a retaining spring. Carefully pull the wheel cylinder
spring fitted inboard (behind the web) (photo). assembly from the hub side of the brake backplate.
15 Offer both shoes up to the backplate and engage the ends of the 5 Remove the piston seal using a non-metallic pointed rod, or
shoes in the anchor plate. fingers. Do not use a metal screwdriver, as this could scratch the
16 Fit the lower spring ends in the webs of the shoes, with the spring piston.
 Chapter 9 Braking system 127

7 If the cylinder is sound, remove the self adjuster spindle and

ratchet wheel. Clean the parts and smear a little ‘Castrol PH Grease’
onto the screw threads. Thoroughly clean the cylinder interior, using
hydraulic fluid and a lint free rag.
8 Regardless of the condition of the old rubber seal, fit a new one.
Wet-assemble it to the piston, and the piston to the cylinder, using
brake fluid. Fit a new rubber dust cover and spring clip. Replace the
adjuster.
9 Using ‘Castrol PH Grease’, smear the backplate where the wheel
cylinder slides, then refit the wheel cylinder to the backplate with the
adjuster ratchet wheel facing towards the front of the car.
10 Screw the adjuster back fully and ensure that the slot is vertical,
then refit the handbrake lever assembly, not forgetting the shaped
distance washer and its retaining spring. Install the spring plate with
the open end towards the front of the car and with the dimples
towards the differential. Fit the horseshoe clip from the front of the
cylinder, ensuring the hoies in the end engage with the dimples on the
spring plate. Check that the cylinder is free to float in the backplate.
11 Refit the rubber cover, connect the hydraulic pipe to the wheel
cylinder and the handbrake cable to the handbrake lever. Refit the
clevis pin with the head uppermost, and lock using a new split cotter.
12 Refit the brake shoes, drum and road wheel then adjust the brakes
by pulling the handbrake on and off, several times.
13 Remove the polythene from the master cylinder reservoir and
bleed the brakes as described in Section 2.

5 —©
Fig. 9.11 The component parts of the rear brake mechanism
18)
4

(Sec.
19

1
Rear brake backplates — removal and refitting

Remove the brake shoes as described in Section 17. If it is

intended to remove the wheel cylinder before removing the backplate,
1 Steady rest kit 5 Spring plate 10 Piston refer to Section 18. Alternatively the wheel cylinder can be removed
2 Assembled brake 6 Wheel cylinder 11 Rubberboot from the backplate at a later stage, in which case it will only be
3 Adjuster 7 Bleed nipple 12 Clip necessary to disconnect the hydraulic pipe/s and handbrake cables.
4 Plate 8 Dust cover 13 Spring 2 Remove the rear hub as described in Chapter 11.
5 Plate 9 Piston seal 3. Remove the four nuts, spring washers and bolts which secure the
6 Inspect the inside of the cylinder for score marks. If any are found backplate to the axle flange, then pull the backplate off.
the cylinder and piston will require renewal. 4 Refitting is the reverse procedure to removal.
Note: /f the wheel cylinder requires renewal, ensure that the replace- 5 On completion, set the brake adjustment by operating the hand-
ment is the same diameter as originally fitted. brake lever several times; bleed the brakes as described in Section 2.

20 Fault diagnosis — braking system

Symptom Reason/s

Pedal travels a long way before the brakes operate Brake shoes set too far from the drums (auto. adjusters seized)

Stopping ability poor, even though pedal pressure is firm Linings discs or drums badly worn or scored

One or more wheel hydraulic cylinders seized, resulting in some

brake shoes not pressing against the drums (or pads against discs)
Brake linings contaminated with oil
Wrong type of linings fitted (too hard)
Brake shoes wrongly assembled
Servo unit not functioning

Car veers to one side when the brakes are applied Brake pads or linings on one side are contaminated with oil
Hydraulic wheel cylinder(s) on one side partially or fully seized
A mixture of lining materials fitted between sides
Unequal wear between sides caused by partially seized wheel cylinders

Pedal feels spongy when the brakes are applied Air is present in the hydraulic system

Pedal feels springy when the brakes are applied Brake linings not bedded into the drums (after fitting new ones)
Master cylinder or brake backplate mounting bolts loose
Severe wear in brake drums causing distortion when brakes are
applied. Discs out of true

Pedal travels right down with little or no resistance and brakes Leak in hydraulic system resulting in lack of pressure for operating
are virtually non-operative wheel cylinders
If no signs of leakage are apparent the master cylinder internal
seals are failing to sustain pressure

Binding, juddering, overheating One or a combination of causes given in the foregoing sections
Chapter 10 Electrical system
Contents
———
ne EEEEEEEEIEE EEE

Aitermaton—-Ggeneralidescriptiom jc. wi. ciere © ise @)oes oe 4 Rear direction indicators, tail/stop and reversing lights —
Alternatom—removaltandiretittimg: mean. «iste. arene ent oa 7 removal and refitting
PAItenmatOn— SeLviCinGmmmare want ie ees hurmaeiedelia wie fee lest ew ass 6 Reversing light switch (single rail gearbox) — removal and
PAITeTMatOlk—CGStinG mira ckecis aber cine, seen slieelo 6.aie sais &ieee S} refitting
Battervemaintenancesamocpcscat:
corel cee aos mie teens a nil ee 3 Reversing light switch (three rail gearbox) — removal and
Battery —removalancdirenttimop ees c cys sirds ae stave ve ote tol 72 MINTal? eae olan ote aren an OliiRe.A ola Co Dg O GeO concn dole
Choke'switch—removalandrefitting ...........5..2+...5..: 51 Selector panel lamp (automatic transmission) — removal
Cigarette lighter — removal andrefitting ................4. 53 and refitting
Door switch — removal and refitting ................0005. 42 Speedometer — removal arid refitting
Ealiitidragnosis=—electhicalisyStemium. cma coste es| uate and 60 Speedometer cable (complete) — removal and refitting
Fitment of accessories — generalnote ...............0000% 29 Speedometer cable (inner) — removal and refitting
Flasher unit — fault diagnosis and rectification Starter motor — dismantiing, overhaul and reassembly
Front parking lights and direction indicators — removal and Starter motor — general description
LOTCtiMGMerrmeweneee it..ore outa ehig fhe trace Ries benkeeus te-sp-e tions dae S-aMeps 32 Starter motor — removal and refitting
EuseiboxsremovaliandirefittinGi vans «vier qr oer eie serosa al 55 Starter motor roller clutch — removal and refitting
GeneraliGescniption g mx.jeescussopatch elseake chads ascae: areleyecchs, wee! outers 1 Starter motor — testing on engine
Handbrake switch — removal andrefitting ................. 16 Steering column combination switch — removal and refitting
Headlamps_sbealmiadjustimemtarncpercatetey cnet ieee ete eke een 31 Stop lamp switch — removal and refitting
Headlamps — removal and refitting .............-2.00000- 30 Voltage stabilizer — removal and refitting
Heated backlight switch — removal and refitting ............ 47 Warning light cluster (1500TC) — removal and refitting
Homs—taultdiagnosis andrectification) 4... .4. 00600072 27, Windscreen washers— dismantling and reassembly
Ignition/starter switch — removal and refitting .............. 40 Windscreen washers — general
lnstruments—aremovaliand)iretitting) aso iaet sass eeccie sepsis ea 56 Windscreen washer jets — removal and refitting
Interior lamp — removal andrefitting .................-.. 37 Windscreen washer pump and reservoir — removal and refitting
Luggage boot switch — removal and refitting ............... 45 Windscreen washer/wiper switch — removal and refitting
Master light switch —removal and refitting ................ 41 Windscreen wiper arm — removal and refitting ..............
Nightaimmingirelay — general a. aa ce el cae a dois en ets 25 Windscreen wiper blades — removal and refitting
Night dirnming relay — removal and refitting ............... 26 Windscreen wipers’ — fault finding) 225.55 5. ce eae ees
Number plate lamp (Dolomite) — removal and refitting ........ 35 Windscreen wipers — general description ...............-.
Number plate lamp (1500TC) — removal and refitting ......... 34 Windscreen wiper linkage — removal andrefitting ...........
Oil pressure switch — removal and refitting ................ 46 Windscreen wiper motor — dismantling, overhaul and
Panel lamps (Dolomite) — removal and refitting ............. 39 FEASSEMDIY. codices SUL ae Sa ees at oreo Se ere
RAGiOm nttiGimeren munis cir hence aia team ive wtRudd dee ylecv slaw ae 28 Windscreen wiper motor — removal and refitting

Specifications

Battery
VV PC rmeigeenie scorer estate ser eas as lel a Petes ate geal eDeemmettiartel dada Grate 12 volt
CADACITV MEM aioe ont ok fae me i) aaah eK GL amacrine et aS 40 amp hour at 20 hour rate

Alternator
NDC eats ae arene Meee ivi aon ademas tenneeen aa acy whee ous one danced gi etna lars Lucas 16ACR or 17ACR
RegUiatOGty Domne cte-re Molar ime claw. soaictia che) otcteemerenatetes sk ita 14 TR (integral with alternator)
ROlahifymncmrsetre ty) Re Kee tetera ares te Siete teens ee alata ots Negative earth only
Brush length
(TREKWAL Ate. oS ORAS eeCan Eo SOREN Sa ohhig AE IRL oneAue ae 0.5 in (12.70 mm)
TRRNITHARLEL
ARH, dic cee (apd. coceceMee OPO an Ri Mee rar ean tl cP ich: 0.2 in (5.00 mm)
Fieldiwinding resistance cat as ee a eae ea elt es Me va eee es 3.2 ohms + 5% (at 20°C)

Starter motor
Type Lucas M-35JPE
Commutator minimum thickness 0.080 in (2.03 mm)
Brush length
(new) 0.500 in (12.70 mm)
(MINIM) eee ne err aero eras haa ee eee 0.375 in (9.50 mm)
Shattrendtloats(maxinitim) meme cesioctcte oie kek abmeec a riae naman cee 0.010 in (0.25 mm)
Solenoid pull-in winding resistance ................00+ee0ce- 0.21 to 0.25 ohms
Solenoid hold-in winding resistance 0.90 to 1.10 ohms
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 129
a a a ee a a ee ee eee ee
Night dimming relay (early models only)
lVDerren eee meen ne age RR re oes Lucas 11RA
36 ohms

Windscreen wiper
VyDOlen eee hee
fies oe eee Lucas 15W
1.5 amp (normal speed)
2.0 amp (high speed)
46 to 52 rpm (normal speed)
60 to 70 rpm (high speed)
Aria ture end tloatmrmmrrr dase era vc cee iate ean ae 0.002 to 0.008 in (0.05 to 0.20 mm)
Brush length
(new) 0.250 in (6 mm)
0.125 in (3 mm)

Fuses
NUMOEK-ANGnAatiNG eapamiay isects bee earn ie iss 5 ane ee ee re 2x35 amp
Location On engine compartment bulkhead

Bulbs 1500 TC and HL 1500 Dolomite

Wattage Wattage
Headiamps
LH dip — normal
Outer 37.5/60 75/60
NC Oe he scores ek Ae ie eee hl Ee ee aes 50

Outer 45/40 45/40

GOEL Se seeto. tlea Sa ne PR poesia elma ene hswi ends, Mie Ra ees 45/40

Outer 45/40
MNGi an, weer Renee peur | Peer ho. ee O ehcen tan etre es, ln eis 45/40
Front parking lamps 5 5
rONCASNCTHAMIDSEa peter Cer es oc nets cen tis, wood eee 225) Zl
Rear flasher lamps 21 21
Nail StODlaMpSe wee eee ewe) by Anon pic ane eee oe enema h 5/21 5/21
ROVELSING lalnDS Paw. Ors ome co aye cts ore tice fis eader erent satis he 21 21
NUmbDerb ate WAMPS weet ieye cc auaia ee austs we ed Ore eto elektwee oe 5 5
CAGE DO OtIAMD ke ten arses shu leut tutacas caustics maavca eyAiouerenont os eles 22, Zee.
ROO MAMID mest eee sche ls nos erese wale ais ARGS wl) sean cue acaemoma neal» 5 5
InStrumentntininatiOn wer. © s.r iysnuene onc cee un hceoes em etea DZiZ Pa@2
Clocks MMIMINANON ee eto ao: ceo eins ie casio! swe w chi Rute aude 2 =

VV UAC A CIUSLOG cn ue aye crue 2 eyieea ial cue laNe’avers ne aaes least net's 155) -
Cigarette lighter illumination 2.2 -
Heated backlight switch 2 2
Selector panel (automatic transmission) ................00005 3 =

5 Smear the battery terminals with petroleum jelly, then fit the
1. General description battery lugs and tighten their screws. Do not hammer the lugs, or the
terminals.
The electrical system operates at 12 volts and is negative earth.
Power is supplied by a Lucas alternator with integral rectifiers and
voltage control system, which is able to cater for all the car's require- 3 Battery — maintenance
ments, even at low engine speeds.
There are two main electrical circuits, each of which is protected 1 The essentials of battery maintenance are to ensure that the level
by a 35 amp fuse. One circuit supplies the horn, headlamp flash, of electrolyte is maintained, the terminals and leads are free from
cigarette lighter and internal lights which are fed directly from the corrosion and the battery is maintained charged.
battery. The other supplies the instruments, windscreen wiper, washer, 2 At least once a month, remove the battery cover, or the filler plug
heater, reversing lights and indicators which are controlled by the igni- of each cell as appropriate, and check that the level of electrolyte is
tion switch. just above the top of the separators. Add distilled water as required,
A supply for a radio is provided from an auxiliary contact on the but do not overfill the cells. Take care not to spill any water on the top
ignition switch and it is important to ensure that any radio or other of the battery and in the event of doing so, wipe it off immediately.
accessory which is fitted, is suitable for a negative earth supply. 3 If there is any corrosion on the battery terminals, leads or battery
clamp, clean it off and apply a preparation such as ‘No-Crode’.
4 When a battery remains in a low state of charge, its plates
2 Battery — removal and refitting deteriorate and its capacity is lessened. If the car is not used for
several days at any time of the year, the battery's life will be prolonged
1 Unscrew the nuts of the battery lugs, twist the lugs slightly to if it is put on charge.
loosen them, and pull them off the battery terminals. 5 During the winter, when much of the car's electrical equipment is
2 Unscrew the two nuts of the battery retainer until they are near to in use and there is little spare capacity for the alternator to charge the
the ends of their threads, then push the battery retainer downwards battery, the use of an external charger every week is well worth while.
and lift the battery out of its tray. 6 Do not exceed the maximum charge rate recommended by the
3 When refitting the battery, ensure that the tray is clean and dry, battery manufacturer, because excessive rates of charge can damage
and that the top of the battery and its terminals are clean. the battery.
4 Lift the battery into the tray and lift the battery retainer upwards. 7 Ifa charger with an output of 3 or 4 amps is available, a charge of
Locate the retainer against the edge of the battery and screw down the about eight hours is likely to be adequate. Alternatively if a trickle
nuts just sufficiently to hold the battery firmly. charger is used, it may safely be used overnight.
130 Chapter 10 Electrical system

3 Remove the screw which secures the surge protection diode and
4 Alternator — general description disconnect the three Lucar connectors from the rectifier pack, noting
the position of each one before removal.
An alternator has the advantages of being of simpler construction 4 Remove the two screws securing ‘the assembly of brush box and
than a dynamo and of having an output which is almost independent regulator, and lift it away (photo).
of speed. 5 With the brush assemblies in position, check that the brushes
The Lucas 16ACR and 17ACR alternators, which are used on all protrude by at least 0.2 in (5 mm) and that they move freely in their
models, are of the rotating field, ventilated design, having a three housing.
phase star-connected stator winding. Rectification of the output is 6 If the brushes are worn so that they do not protrude sufficiently,
achieved by a rectifier pack of six silicon diodes, connected as a full- remove their fixing screws, discard the brushes and fit new ones
wave bridge. Current for the excitation of the field windings is supplied (photo).
by three additional diodes and is fed to them by slip rings and brushes. 7 Clean the slip rings with a piece of cotton rag moistened with
A semiconductor regulator is incorporated in the alternator and petrol (photo).
provision is made for an ignition warning light, so that the need for an 8 Refit the brush box assembly (photo), refit the surge protection
external voltage regulator and cut out is eliminated. diode and reconnect the three Lucar connectors to the terminals from
The alternator rotor is mounted on two sealed-for-life ball bear- which they were removed.
ings, and no periodic lubrication is necessary. 9 Refit the end cover. E

5 Alternator — testing 7 Alternator — removal and refitting

Because of its simplicity, an alternator is reliable and is unlikely to 1 Pull the multi-socket connector from the end of the alternator.
give trouble. To check the alternator output requires equipment which 2 Slacken the locknut of the adjustment bo!t, then slacken the bolt.
only an automobile electrical specialist is likely to possess, and a 3. Slacken the main mounting bolt and push the alternator as far as
suspect machine should be taken to an auto electrical workshop. possible towards the engine, so that the drive can be removed from
the pulley.
4 Remove the locknut of the adjustment bolt, and then unscrew and
6 Alternator — servicing remove the bolt and its washer.
5 Remove the nut and washer from the main mounting bolt.
Dismantling of the alternator should not be undertaken by anyone 6 Support the weight cf the alternator and spacer, withdraw the
who is not experienced in soldering semiconductor devices. mounting bolt and lift the alternator away.
If alternator trouble is suspected, anyone inexperienced, should do 7 When refitting the alternator, first position it and its spacer and
no more than inspect and if necessary renew the brushes, proceeding then insert the main mounting boit from the rear.
as follows. 8 Fit the washer and nut, and screw the nut, sufficiently to take up
1 Remove the alternator from the car as described in Section 7. the end play of the bolt.
2 Remove the two screws securing the end cover and lift the cover 9 Push the alternator towards the engine as far as possible and refit
off (photo). the drive beit.

Vi; "APa
6.2 Alternator end cover screws 6.4 Removing the brush box moulding

ie

6.7 The alternator slip rings 6.8 The b rush box and rectifier lead refitted
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 131

10 Insert the adjustment bolt and washer and screw it in sufficiently

to allow the locknut to be screwed on.
11 Push the alternator away from the engine to tension the belt and
while holding the alternator, tighten the adjustment bolt.
12 Check the belt tension by pressing the mid-point of its longest
span and if it can be deflected by between 0.75 and 1 inch, the tension
is correct. Adjust if necessary and when correct, fully tighten the
adjusting bolt, then tighten the locknut (see Fig. 2.3 in Chapter 2).
13 Fully tighten the main mounting bolt and nut.
14 Refit the multi-socket connector to the end of the alternator.
endring23
ring
Slip NutRectifier
bearing
21 moulding
Slip
22 pack
24 Brushbox
assembly
25

8 Starter motor — general description

The motor is of the four pole, series-wound type and has a shaft
which incorporates the drive pinion and a solenoid-operated roller
clutch drive. The shaft end remote from the pinion carries a face-type
commutator; a plastic brush box riveted to the commutator end
bracket carries four wedge-shaped brushes and captive coil springs.
The armature shaft rotates on two porous bronze bushes. Its end-
float is controlled at the commutator end bracket by a thrust washer
internally, and by external shims, thrust plate and split cotter mounted
on the shaft extension.
The starter solenoid is integral with the starter motor and has two
windings. One winding is a heavy gauge pull-in winding and the other
is a lighter gauge hold-in winding.
When battery voltage is applied to unmarked terminal of the
plate
retaining solenoid, to which the white/red wire is connected, both the pull-in
and hold-in windings are energised, causing the solenoid plunger to
felt 718
and
ring
Pressure
17 bearing
end
Drive
Circlip
19 Rotor
20 pull in. This action closes the main contacts to energise the starter
motor, causes the pull-in winding to be shorted out and also operates
the lever which locks the roller clutch. With the starter motor
energised, the clutch locked and the pinion engaged in the flywheel
starter ring, the engine is cranked. When the engine starts, the roller
clutch drive is over-ridden, so that the engine cannot drive the starter
motor armature and damage it.
When the ignition/starter switch is released, the solenoid is de-
energised, the solenoid plunger moves out under the influence of its
return spring and in so doing, opens the main contacts to de-energise
the starter motor and operates the lever to disengage the roller clutch.

NutSpring
72 washer
13 74 FanSpacer
Pulley
715 16 9 Starter motor — removal and refitting

The starter motor is removed from beneath the car and the opera-
6)
(Sec.
10.1
Fig.
Alternator
components tion is made easier if the car is over a pit, or the front wheels are on
ramps.
1 Remove the lugs from the battery terminals to disconnect the
battery.
2 Disconnect the two Lucar connectors, after noting the colour
coding of the wire connected to each.
3 Using a 10 mm spanner, remove the nut and spring washer, then
take off the three eyelet tags from the stud (photo).
4 Remove the upper mounting nut, spring washer, bonding strap
and bolt.
5 From beneath the car, remove the nut, spring washer and bolt of
the lower mounting, then manoeuvre the starter motor downwards
from the engine.
6 Recover the packing piece if it falls out of the engine rear mount-
7Key8 ring10
Bearing
plate ringbracket
Felt
retaining Drive
171
end
9Pressure
ing plate.
7 When refitting the starter motor, first ensure that the packing
piece has its spigot fitted into the engine rear mounting plate.
8 Reverse operations 1 to 5, ensuring that the bonding strap is
refitted to the upper mounting bolt. Tighten the starter mounting bolts
to a torque of 34 Ibf ft (47 kgf m).
9 Refit the three eyelet tags to the screwed terminal and refit the
two Lucar connectors with the white/red wire to the numbered tag and
the white/yellow wire to the IGN tag.

10 Starter motor — dismantling, overhaul and reassembly

NOTE: Before starting to dismantle the starter motor, obtain a ‘Pivot

pin kit’, Lucas part No. 54247023 or Stanpart No. 519947, because
Moulded
cover
the dismantling operation necessitates the destruction of the spire
1 O-ring
Rubber
2 bracket
end
ring
Slip § winding
3 Through
bolt Field
6
4 windings
Stator retaining ring on the pivot pin.
132

Fig. 10.2 The starter motor, exploded view (Sec. 10)

1 Seal 710 Spring 20 Spring washer

2 Star washer 171 Reaction arm pin and washer 21 Shakeproof washer
3 Bush 72 Reaction arm 22 Nut
4 Brush 13 Packing 23 Bush
5 Commutator end bracket 14 Spring 24 Bolt and washer
6 Through bolt, nuts and 15 Drive pinion assembly 25 Bolt
washers 76 Bolt 26 Spring washer
7 Body and field coils 17 Washer 27 Jump ring
8 Armature 18 Endcasting 28 Thrust collar
9 Solenoid assembly 79 Bolt
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 133

Mee. w

9.3 Starter motor connections 10.17 ‘STA’ terminal with lead fitted

1 Remove the nut and spring washer securing the cable from the
solenoid and remove the cable. 11 Starter motor roller clutch — removal and refitting
2 Using a screwdriver, prise off the plastic end cap.
3 Remove the split cotter and take off the shims and thrust plate. 1 Remove the starter motor from the car and dismantle it as
4 Remove the two bolts from the drive end bracket and pull the drive described in the two previous Sections.
end bracket back as far as it will go easily. 2 Using a piece of tubing, or a suitable sized box spanner as a drift,
5 Pull off the assembly of the yoke and commutator end bracket, drive the thrust collar. along the armature shaft towards the roller
then remove the four screws and lift the commutator end bracket off clutch until the snap-ring underneath it is exposed.
the yoke. It will be necessary to pull the two field winding brushes out 3 Remove the snap-ring from its groove, then draw the thrust collar
of the brush box, to achieve complete separation. off the shaft.
6 Remove the thrust washer from the commutator end of the 4 Pull the roller clutch assembly off the shaft.
armature shaft and the rubber sealing block between the yoke and the 5 Clean the splines and then smear them with grease.
solenoid. 6 Grease the pinion bearing, then fit the new roller clutch assembly
7 Prise off the spire retaining ring and tap the pivot pin out. to the shaft.
8 Remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the solenoid to 7 Fit the thrust collar with its recessed end facing the end of the
the end bracket. shaft, driving it along to the shaft until it is beyond the snap-ring
S§ Withdraw the armature, roller clutch drive and solenoid assembly groove.
from the drive end bracket. 8 Fit the snap-ring in its groove in the shaft and then pull the thrust
10 Remove the solenoid, by carefully withdrawing its studs from the collar along the shaft until it fits with its recess covering the snap-ring.
solenoid seal moulding and pull the return spring off the plunger.
11 Turn back tne solenoid seal moulding and unhook the plunger
from the engaging lever. 12 Starter motor — testing on engine
12 Clean all the components and inspect them for damage and wear.
The commutator should be cleaned with a cotton rag moistened with 1 If the starter motor fails to operate, check the condition of the
petrol. Measure the length of the brushes and if they are less than battery by turning on the headlamps and seeing whether they
0.312 in (8.00 mm) obtain new ones. obviously begin to dim after about a minute. If this is the case, it
13 If the porous bronze bushes are worn and need renewing, it is indicates a battery in a low state of charge.
recommended that this is done by an auto-electrical workshop 2 If there is no reason to suspect the battery, check the tightness of
because they need to be pressed in with an accurately fitting the battery terminals and also their cleanliness. Because of the very
shouldered mandrel. It is very important that the bushes are not high current taken by the starter motor, a resistance of only a fraction
damaged, or distorted on insertion, because they must not be reamed of an ohm, such as is caused by a dirty or loose connection, can cause
to rectify damage, as reaming will impair their porosity and destroy a voltage drop of several volts at the starter motor terminals and the
their self-lubricating property. motor power can easily be reduced to only a quarter of its rated
14 The roller clutch unit should be cleaned with a petrol moistened output.
cloth. Do not wash the clutch with petrol, because this will remove the 3 Connect a test lamp, or voltmeter between the starter solenoid
lubricant from the sealed unit. terminal to which the white/red wire is connected and operate the
15 Check that the clutch locks in one direction and rotates smoothly starter switch. If the lamp or meter indicates normal voltage, the
in the opposite direction, and that it moves freely on the armature starter circuit is correct.
splines. Renew the centre unit if any of the above requirements are not 4 Repeat the above test on the terminal to which the white/yellow
met. wire is connected, to ensure that when the starter switch is operated
16 Check that the solenoid windings are electrically continous and the solenoid closes and switches full battery voltage to the ignition
that the plunger moves freely. The plunger is matched to the solenoid coil.
and if either is defective, they must be renewed by a matched pair and 5 If all the above checks are satisfactory, repeat the test on the STA
a new spring. terminal of the solenoid, to check whether the main contacts of the
17 Reassemble in the reverse order to dismantling, ensuring that solenoid are closing properly.
when the solenoid is fitted, the STA terminal is nearest to the yoke 6 Having proved from the tests that voltage is being applied to the
(photo). starter motor, remove the motor and examine it.
134 Chapter 10 Electrical system

4 Unscrew the three motor fixing bolts and withdraw them from
13 Windscreen wipers — general description their rubber mounting bushes. Collect up a total of six washers (one
from each face of each bush).
The windscreen wipers are driven by a permanent magnet motor 5 Disconnect the harness plug (photo).
with integral gearbox, the output shaft of which is connected to a 6 Lift out the motor.
crank arm. The motor is capable of operation at either of two pre-set 7 When refitting the motor, note that three of the washers have
speeds, due to there being three brushes around its commutator. centre holes larger than the centre holes in the other three. Thread the
Normal speed is provided by using the two brushes which are three larger bore washers on to the fixing bolts, push the bolts through
diametrically opposite and a higher speed can be selected by switching the rubber bushes and place the three other washers on the threaded
the supply voltage to the asymmetrically positioned brush. portion of the bolts before screwing them into the motor.
The gearbox incorporates a changeover limit switch, associated 8 Refit the crank arm with the blades in their parked position; refit
with a cam on the gear, which ensures that the blades stop in their the washer, and screw on and tighten the nut.
parked position regardless of when the motor is switched off. When
the steering column switch is turned to OFF, the supply to the motor is
maintained by the limit switch; when the cam operates the switch, the
17 Windscreen wiper motor — dismantling, overhaul and
contacts change over and the two motor brushes are connected
reassembly Le
together to provide regenerative braking.
The motor crank arm provides the semi-rotary motion to the
1 Remove the windscreen wiper motor from the car, as described in
wipers, by means of a connecting rod attached to the lever arm of one
the previous Section.
of the wiper spindles and a slave rod transfers the motion to the
2 Pull the rubber seal off the drive shaft end.
second wiper arm.
3 Remove the three screws securing the gearbox cover and take the
cover off.
4 Withdraw the gear and its shaft. If the snaft is difficult to with-
14 Windscreen wiper arm — removal and refitting draw, do not force it, but locate and remove any burr at the crank arm
end. Take care not to lose the dished washer on the gear shaft.
1 Lift the wiper arm from the screen until it locks in its outward posi- 5 Remove the two through-bolts securing the cover and pull the
tion.
cover back until the brushes are exposed.
2 Using a screwdriver, press the clip (photo) so that it disengages 6 Continue withdrawing the cover and armature very slowly until the
from the spindle groove, and at the same time pull the wiper arm boss brushes drop clear of the commutator and then withdraw the armature
off the splines of the spindle. completely, taking care not to get grease from the shaft on the
3 When refitting, ensure that the spindles are in their park position, brushes.
which will not be the case if the ignition has been switched off while 7 Pull the armature against the magnetic attraction of the case, until
the wiper switch is selected to either of its wiper operating positions. the two are completely separated.
4 Hold the arm so that the blade is in its normal parked position with 8 Remove the three screws securing the brush assembly, then pull
the blade parallel to the bottom of the windscreen, and press the boss
the assembly out of its recess.
of the arm on to the spindle splines, until the clip engages in the
9 Lift the limit switch to release its spring clip and slide it out
spindle groove.
sideways, without removing the wires joining it to the brush assembly.
10 Clean off all dirt and old lubricant from all the components.
11 Examine the commutator for damage and wear and clean it witha
15 Windscreen wiper blades — removal and refitting cloth moistened with petrol. If there is any evidence of burning of the
commutator, fit a new armature.
1 Lift the wiper arm from the screen until it locks in its outward posi- 12 Having dismantled the motor, it is worth fitting new brushes
tion. regardless of the condition of the old ones, but they must be renewed
2 Grip the arm and the blade attachment and press the end of the if they are shorter than 0.125 in (3 mm). Note that the high speed
blade attachment to disengage the ‘pip’ on the arm from the hole in brush has a shouldered end and must be renewed if the shouldered
the blade attachment then pull the attachment off the arm. portion has worn away. To renew the brushes, unsolder the pigtails of
3 When refitting, locate the end of the arm in the blade attachment the old brushes and remove them. Fit the new brushes and ensure that
and push on until the ‘pip’ in the arm engages the hole in the attach- the pigtails are soldered without dry joints. A correctly soldered joint
ment (photo). has a bright appearance when cold, whereas a dry joint goes dull when
the solder cools and solidifies.
13 Start reassembly by sliding the limit switch in sideways until its
16 Windscreen wiper motor — removal and refitting spring clip secures it in place.
14 Position the brush assembly in the recess and refit the three fixing
1 Remove the battery connections. screws.
2 Prise out the two button clips and pull off the fibreboard cover 15 Lubricate the cover bearing and saturate the cover bearing felt
giving access to the motor crank. washer with thin oil.
3 Remove the nut and washer and pull off the crank arm. 16 Bend pieces of wire to hold the brushes completely within their

14.2 Retaining clip of windscréen wiper 15.3 Attachment of wiper blade to wiper 16.5 Windscreen wiper motor harness plug
arm boss arm, showing spring clip
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 135

Fig. 10.3 The windscreen wiper motor parts (Sec. 17)

1 Through bolt 6 Rubber seal

2 Cover 7 Gearbox, washer and nut
3 Armature 8 Shaft
4 Brush assembly 9 Gearbox cover and screw
§ Limit switch

9
housings, insert the helical screw end of tite armature into the end should be loosened, but not removed.
bearing and remove the wire clips to allow tne brushes to come into 5 Manoeuvre the wiper spindles out of the holes in the front deck
contact with the commutator. panel, allowing the sixth bolt in the mounting plate to take the weight
17 Fit the cover and turn it until the mating marks line up, then insert of the assembly.
and tighten the through bolts. 6 When the assembly is free, unhook the plate from the remaining
18 Measure the gap between the end of the armature shaft and the bolt, leaving the bolt in place.
end of the thrust screw, which should be between 0.002 and 0.008 in 7 Refitting the linkage, motor and wiper blades is the reversal of
(0.05 and 0.2 mm). Adjust if necessary with the adjuster, if fitted. operations 1 to 6.
When a non-adjustable thrust screw is fitted, endfloat can be
increased by placing shim washers under the bolt head. To decrease
endfloat it is necessary to remove metal from the underside of the
screw head.
19 Lubricate the final gear bushes with thin oil and the gears with
grease, and smear grease on the cam of the final gear.
20 Thread the dished washer onto the final gear shaft so that the
concave surface of it is towards the gear, then insert the gear shaft into
its bearing.
21 Pack grease round the final gear and worm shaft, then refit the
cover.
22 Refit the rubber seal over the output shaft bearing.

18 Windscreen wiper linkage — removal and refitting

1 Remove the windscreen wiper arms as described in Section 14.

2 Remove the windscreen wiper motor as described in Section 16.
3 Unscrew and remove the two wiper arm spindle nuts, then pull off
the rubber bushes. Fig. 10.4 The windscreen wiper linkages (Sec. 18)
4 Remove five of the six mounting bolts of the motor and linkage
mounting plate, leaving the one in the bottom right-hand corner, which
=
36 Chapter 10 Electrical system

19 Windscreen wipers — fault finding

1 If the windscreen wipers fail to operate properly, the cause may be

a wiring fault, a motor fault, or a failure of the linkage. The fault area
can be ascertained quickly as follows.
2 Remove the motor harness plug and connect a test lamp or
voltmeter between the red/light green wire and the black wire. With
the wiper switch selected to NORMAL SPEED, turn the ignition switch
ON and if there is normal voltage between the two wires being tested,
there is no wiring fault. Turn off the ignition switch and refit the plug.
3 Having proved that voltage is being applied to the motor, discon-
nect the crank arm from the end of the motor shaft as described in
Section 16. Refit the battery leads, switch on the ignition and the
wiper switch and check to see if the motor drive spindle rotates
satisfactorily. Remove and dismantle the motor if a faulty motor is
indicated.
4 |f the motor is satisfactory, the fault must lie in the linkage, which
should be removed as described in the previous Section.

20 Windscreen washers — general

20.1 Windscreen washer jet
1 All models have two metal jets, fitted to brackets attached to the
rear side of the front bulkhead (photo). The jets are fed from an
electrically driven centrifugal pump and there are differences in the
pumps and reservoirs used on different models. Two basic washers are
used, the Lucas Type 5SJ and Lucas Type 9SJ as described later.

21 Windscreen washer — dismantling and reassembly

Lucas Type 5SJ

1 Rotate the cover anticlockwise to release the bayonet fitting and
lift the pump assembly from the reservoir.
2 Remove the screw from the centre of the motor cover and lift the
motor off its mounting spigots.
3 Remove the coupling between the motor and the pump, by gripp-
ing the motor shaft with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers and using a
second pair of pliers on the coupling.
4 Remove the two fixing screws and take off the bearing plate and
rubber gasket.
5 With the clamping member held in position, remove the distance
tube from the shaft; remove the terminal screws, connector blades and
nuts, then carefully lift out the brushes using a pair of snipe-nosed
pliers.
6 Lift the clamping member out.
7 Lift out the armature and permanent magnet, and pull them
against the magnetic attraction to separate them.
8 Clean the brushes with a cloth moistened with petrol. Check the
Fig. 10.5 Lucas 9SJ washer (later type) (Sec. 21)
length of the brushes and if shorter than 0.062 in (1.60 mm) fit new
ones.
1 Cover 7 Seal
9 Clean the commutator with a cloth moistened with petrol. If the
2 Screws 8 Plate
commutator is burnt or pitted, fit a new armature.
3 Pump housing 9 Rubber disc
10 When reassembling, lubricate the motor bearing by filling the
4 Rotor 70 Suction tube
recess with molybdenized grease. Wipe away any excess grease.
5 O-ring 11 Reservoir
11 Fit the permanent magnet in the motor case, so that its narrower
6 Seal housing
pole piece is towards the terminal position and ensure that the poles
locate properly around the circular spigot. If the magnet is not fitted
and reservoir cover should be fitted. It is possible to dismantle the
the right way round, the motor will run in the wrong direction and the
pump to clean its interior and this can be done as follows.
pump will not work unless the motor connections are reversed.
For the later type having the pump attached to the reservoir cover (Fig.
12 Position the clamping member and hold it in place while the
10.5).
armature is inserted, the brushes fitted, and the terminals and shaft
16 Turn the cover anticlockwise to release the bayonet fitting and
distance tube are fitted. Fit the brushes, by using snipe-nosed pliers
lift the pump and cover assembly off the reservoir.
and, if the old brushes are being refitted, ensure that they bear firmly
For both the later type and the earlier separately mounted pump
against the commutator. If this cannot be achieved, new brushes must
(photo) proceed as follows:
be fitted. Ensure that the ends of the brush arms are inserted into their
slots in the motor case. 17 Remove the two screws from beneath the cover and lift away the
pump housing.
13 Refit the bearing plate and rubber gasket, refit the coupling and
18 Carefully withdraw the rotor and rotor drive plate.
refit the screw securing the motor assembly.
19 Remove the O-ring and then remove the seal housing.
Lucas Type 9SJ 20 Remove the seal from the motor shaft, remove the pump top plate
14 The motor is a sealed unit and cannot be dismantled and it is not and then pull the small rubber disc off the motor shaft.
advisable to attempt to overhaul the pump, because no replacement 21 Clean all the parts using warm water and detergent to wash away
parts are available. any loose dirt. If any parts are encrusted with scale, carefully scrape
15 If pump operation is suspect, a complete assembly of motor, pump these with a finger nail, or a piece of wood.
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 137

oe ne : ‘
21.16 Lucas 9SJ washer with separately mounted pump 24.1 The flasher unit withdrawn from its mounting

22 Windscreen washer jets — removal and refitting 25 Night dimming relay — general

1 Remove the two screws and washers which secure the jet mount- The night dimming relay is mounted behind the panel at the left-
ing bracket to the front bulkhead, and lift away the bracket and jet. hand side of the boot on early models only. It switches resistors in
2 Pull the plastic pipe off the jet. series with the stop lamps and rear flasher lamps whenever the
3 Reverse the two previous operations when refitting the jet, then parking lights are illuminated, so that atnight there is less tendency for
close the bonnet and operate the pump to make sure that the jet is not the drivers of following vehicles to be dazzled. The contacts of the unit
obstructed by the bonnet air intake louvres and that it strikes the are set during manufacture and should not need adjusting.
screen in a position which gives satisfactory washing.
4 If necessary adjust the jet. Lateral positioning can be done by
loosening the bracket fixing screws and moving the bracket sideways. 26 Night dimming relay — removal and refitting
The height at which the jet hits the screen, should be adjusted by
carefully bending the jet tube. 1 Open the luggage boot lid and remove the floor mat.
2 Remove two screws and prise out one button clip, then
manoeuvre out the left-hand side trim panel
23 Windscreen washer pump and reservoir — removing and refitt- 3 Remove the two screws and withdraw the relay, being careful not
ing to disturb any of the connections.
4 Label each of the eight wires and note the terminals to which they
1 Disconnect the two Lucar connectors. are connected. In the case of the green/red wires and the green/white
2 For vehicles fitted with Lucas 5SJ washers, puil off the outlet pipe. wires, it is important which one of each pair is connected to a
Vehicles fitted with Lucas 9SJ washers must first have the cover particular terminal.
removed, then the pipe can be pulled off hand withdrawn from the 5 Remove the eight Lucar connectors and take the relay away.
cover. 6 When refitting the relay, the following procedure must be carried
3. Lift the unit upwards and out of its carrier. out If any of the wire identifications is in doubt.
4 Refit the unit as the reverse of removal. 7 Connect a short slave wire to the red terminal, making sure that
5 When reconnecting the Lucar connectors, tne green wire must be the wire cannot come into contact with any bare metal, then switch on
connected to the positive terminal and the green/black wire to the the side lamp switch to make the wire ‘live’.
negative terminal. If the wires are connected wrongly, the motor will 8 Touch the slave wire on each of the green/red wires in turn; the
run in the reverse direction and the pump will not run properly. one which causes the left-hand rear flasher lamp to light must be con-
nected to terminal 6. Connect the other green/red wire to terminal 3.
9 Repeat the test on the green/white wires in turn, to find out which
24 Flasher unit — fault diagnosis and rectification of the two causes the right-hand rear flasher lamp to light and connect
it to terminal 5. Connect the other green/white wire to terminal 3.
1. The direction flasher unit is a small rectangular boss, mounted ina 10 Switch off the sidelight switch, remove the slave wire and connect
clip on the lower edge of the facia. It lies behind the instrument panel, the red wire to terminal W2.
but can be reached by hand (photo). 11 Connect the black wire to terminal W1.
2 If the flasher unit operates at twice normal speed, it is due to one 12 Connect the two green/purple wires to terminals 1 and 4. It does
of the flasher indicators not working because the bulb filament is not matter which of these wires is connected to which one of these
broken, or because of a wiring fault. two terminals..
3. +If the external flashers work normally without any indication by the
internal warning light, it is likely that the warning bulb has failed.
4 tf the flasher unit does not make any sound when the flashers are 27 Horns — fault diagnosis and rectification
switched on, the flasher unit is defective. Repair of the unit is not
possible and a new one must be fitted. 1 If a horn works intermittently, or fails completely, first establish
5 When fitting a new unit, connect the two Lucar connectors with whether the fault is with the horn, or its associated wiring.
the green wire to terminal B of the unit and the light green/brown wire NO Remove the two Lucar connectors from the horn, clean the horn
to terminal L. contacts and connect a pair of wires directly from the battery to the
138 Chapter 10 Electrical system

horn. If the horn operates normally, check the switch and the wiring. 3 Accessories which are to be controlled by the ignition switch,
3 If the horn sounds, but not satisfactorily, it may require adjust- should be connected to the end of the fuse to which green wires are
ment. There is a small adjuster screw on the back of the horn which is connected and particular care is required to ensure that no heavy loads
sealed on manufacture and should not be tampered with unless are connected, because the contacts of the ignition switch may be
absolutely necessary. overloaded.
4 Turn the adjuster screw anticlockwise until the horn ceases 4 Accessories which are to be protected by the existing fuses, Cut
making any sound, then turn the screw clockwise by a quarter of a not controlled by the ignition switch, should be connected to one of
turn. the fuse tags where the purple wires are connected.

28 Radio — fitting 30 Headlamps — removal and replacement

1 The wiring harness includes provision for fitting a radio and the
1 Although some of the models covered have a single rectangular
aerial and speaker are fitted as standard equipment.
headlamp and others have twin circular headlamps, the procedure is
2 To locate the wire for the radio supply, open the front right-hand
essentially the same (photos).
door and look upwards into the space between the side of the parcel
2 On single headlamp models, remove thé front grille. On *win
tray and the gearbox cover. Locate the wiring harness and look for a
headlamp models remove two screws and take off the bezel panel.
pink/white wire, termiXating in a 3 mm connector. This connector
3 On circular lamps which have keyhole slots in the lamp retaining
provides a 12 volt positive supply, controlled by the ignition switch.
rim, slacken the screws and rotate the retaining rim anticlockwise. On
3 It is important that any radio which is fitted is suitable for a
rectangular lamps, remove the three screws.
negative earth supply, otherwise the radio is likely to be damaged
4 Remove the lamp retaining rim and hold the lamp in place by
severely as soon as it is switched on.
hand.
4 The speaker grille is retained by three plastic spigots which locate
5 Grip the larnp, pull it forward until the wiring connector at the rear
in sockets secured to the facia. Using a wide bladed screwdriver,
is accessible, pull off the connector and remove the lamp (photos).
carefully prise off the grille.
6 Refitting a lamp is a direct reversal of the removal operations
5 Any radio which is fitted should have a line fuse of not more than
(photos).
one amp rating.

29 Fitment of accessories — general note 31 Headlamps — beam adiustment

1. Before fitting any accessories, such as additional lights or horns, 1 Each lamp unit is provided with two spring — loaded adjuster
care must be taken to ensure that they are wired with cable of ade- screws to control beam aiming. The screw which is above the centre of
quate size and that they are not connected so that any of the car the lamp adjusts beam height and the screw below the centre line
circuits are overloaded. adjusts the position of the beam in the horizontal plane.
2 Ensure that all cables are either taped to existing cable harnesses, 2 Remove the beze! panel or front grille.
or are clipped into place separately, and ensure that all cables are 3 With the car standing on level ground and loaded normally, switch
protected by a grommet at all places where they pass through a panel. the headlamps to the high beam position.
oN

Se
ae

30.1a Removing the headlamp bezel 30.15 Removing the headlamp bezel 30.5a Removing the plug-in connector
(rectangular headlights) (circular headlights) (rectangular headlights)

30.5b Removing the plug-in connector 30.6a Fitting the lamp unit (rectangular 30.6b Fitting the lamp unit (circular
(circular headlights) headlights) headlights)
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 139

4 Using the lower adjuster screws, adjust the beams so that they are
directed straight-ahead.
5 With the upper adjuster screws, adjust the beams so that they are
directed very slightly below horizontal.
6 Refit the grille or bezel.
7 The foregoing adjustment should only be regarded as approximate
and it is recommended that the setting is checked by a garage having
photo-electric beam setting equipment.

NN

32 Front parking lights and direction indicators — removal and

refitting
ee
Remove the two screws and lift off the lens (photo).
Np
— Remove the two bulbs from their bayonet fitting.
3 Lift the bonnet and disconnect the three wires from their con-
nectors to the main wiring harness.
4 Withdraw the complete lamp assembly from the front of its
mounting panel.
5 When refitting the lamp assembly, which is the reverse of removal,
remove any corrosion from the wiring connectors and fit a new lens
gasket if there is any sign of the old one not being watertight.
32.1 Removing the front parking and flasher lamp lenses

33 Rear direction indicators, tail/stop and reversing lights —

removal and refitting

1 Open the boot and remove the floor mat. For access to the right-
hand lamp, also remove the floor panel.
2 Remove sufficient screws from the rear trim panel to allow it to be
swung forward to give access to the lamp.
3 Pull back the edge of the side trim panel.
4 To remove a bulb, pull the bulb holder from the lamp base and
remove the bulb from its bayonet fitting (photo).
5 To remove the fitting, remove all three bulb holders and discon-
nect two red wire Lucar connectors from the resistor unit.
6 Remove the nut, spring washer and plain washer and remove the
resistor unit.
7 Remove the Lucar earth connection.
8 Remove five nuts, spring washers and plain washers and withdraw
the lamp assembly.
9 The lenses are held in place by Posidriv screws and individual
lenses can be renewed after removing the lamp assembly.
10 Refitting is the reverse of removal and the two red wires may be
connected either way round to the resistor unit.
11 Remove any corrosion from the wiring connectors and fit a new
lens gasket if there is any sign of the old one not being watertight.

33.4 Access to rear lamp cluster bulbs

34 Number plate lamp (1500TC) — removal and refitting

1 Remove two‘’screws and lift off the chromium-plated cover.

2 Disengage the lenses from the rubber mounting and remove the
two bulbs from their bayonet fittings (photo).
3 To remove the lamp fitting, open the boot, release three press
studs and pull up the rear edge of the floor mat.
4 Remove sufficient screws from the rear trim panel to give access
to the wiring harness, then disconnect the two lamp wires.
5 Pull the lamp wires through the panel grommet.
6 Remove two nuts, washers and earthing tags and lift the lamp off
the bumper.
7 Refit the lamp in the reverse order of the removal operations.

35 Number plate lamp (Dolomite) — removal and refitting

1 Remove the chromium plated bezel and disengage the lens from
the recess in the rubber mounting (photo).
2 Remove the lamp from its bayonet fitting.
3 Pull the lamp moulding out of the hole in the bumper
4 To remove the lamp assembly, remove sufficient screws from the
rear trim panel to gain access to the wiring harness, then disconnect
the two lamp wires.
5 Pull the lamp wires through the panel grommet.
34.2 Access to the rear number plate bulbs (1500 TC)
6 When refitting the lamp, fit the bulb, the lens and the chromium
plated bezel, then push the assembly into place in the hole in the
140 Chapter 10 Electrical system

35.1 Access to the rear number plate bulbs 37.2 Interior lamp with lens removed 40.2 Upper half of “nacelle and master
(Dolomite) lighting switch

bumper.
40 Ignition/starter switch — removal and refitting

36 Selector panel lamp (automatic transmission) — removal and 1 Remove the battery connections.
refitting 2 Remove two screws and washers securing the upper part of the
instrument nacelle. Disconnect the three Lucar connectors from the
1 Insert a bolt or pin into the drilling in the ferrule underneath the master light switch and remove the upper part of the nacelle (photo).
selector lever and unscrew it, then screw off the selector handle and 3 Remove the screw securing the lower half of the nacelle (photo).
the ferrule. 4 Remove the nut, spring washer, plain washer and screw to release
NO Remove three screws and lift off the centre console moulding. The the harness cover clip and then remove it.
front screw is not very accessible and requires the use of a very short 5 Push down the corrugated sleeve and remove it from the column.
screwdriver. 6 Remove the two fixing screws and lift off the harness cover.
3 Torenew the festoon lamp, prise the bulb out from its contacts. 7 Remove two small Pozidriv screws and remove the ignition/starter
4 Toremove the lamp, disconnect the two snap connectors, remove switch and its harness.
the screw and washer, and renew the lamp moulding. 8 Reverse the removal procedure to refit the switch. When recon-
5 Refitting is the reverse of removal. necting the master light switch, connect the brown wire to terminal 4,
the red wire to terminal 1, and the blue wire to terminal 8.

37 Interior lamp — removal and refitting

41 Master light switch — removal and refitting
1 Remove the battery connections.
2 Gently press in the sides of the lens, to disengage the lens clips 1 Remove the upper part of the nacelle with the switch, as described
from the lamp base and lift the lens off (photo). in the first two paragraphs of the preceding Section.
3. Prise the festoon bulb from its contacts. 2 Insert a suitable sized rod or screw into the hole in the switch
4 Note the colour of the wire attached to each of the lamp terminals knob. Depress the spring plunger and at the same time pull the knob to
and disconnect the wires. remove it.
5 Remove the two screws and lift the lamp base off. 3 Remove the nut and spring washer, and withdraw the switch.
6 Refit the lamp by reversing the removal operations. 4 When refitting the switch as the reverse of the above, ensure that
the brown wire is connected to terminal 4, the red wire to terminal 1
and the blue wire to terminal 8.
38 Warning light cluster (1500TC) — removal and refitting

1 Remove the instrument panel fixings (Chapter 12 Section 16) and 42 Door switch — removal! and refitting
ease the panel forward to gain access to its rear.
2 Carefully pull the harness plug off the back of the assembly. Open the door fully.
3 To renew a bulb, remove the screw, spring washer and: plain [eyesRemove the single fixing screw and withdraw the switch, or pull
washer securing the back plate and take the back plate off. Unscrew the switch out if it is of the spring-claw type.
and change the appropriate bulb. 3 Disconnect the Lucar connector, or bullet connector as
4 To remove the housing assembly, rotate the retaining ring to appropriate.
disengage it from from the iugs on the housing. Remove the retaining
ring and spring, then pull the housing from the front of the panel.
43 Reversing light (three rail gearbox) — removal and refitting

39 Panel lamps (Dolomite) — removal and refitting 1 Remove the rubber gaiter from around the gear lever.
2 Open the bonnet and, working in the engine compartment, remove
1 Reach behind the dashboard to locate the two knurled nuts secur- the four nuts and spring washers securing the gearbox top cover
ing the instrument. Remove the fixing clips from the screws, taking extension.
particular care to note if any earthing tags are also attached. 3 Lift the extension off its dowels, then manoeuvre it out.
2 Carefully pull the instrument forward through the panel. 4 Disconnect the two floating Lucar connectors, then screw out the
wo Pull out the lamp mounting from the instrument and screw the switch by using a spanner on the hexagon.
bulb out. 5 Note if any fibre washers are fitted and collect them up.
4 To refit, reverse the removal operations, taking particular care to 6 When refitting the switch, use new fibre washers if fitted, but be
refit the earthing tags. very careful to use exactly the same number as were fitted originally.
 Chapter 10 Electrical system 141

44 Reversing light switch (single rail gearbox) — removal and 48 Windscreen washer/wiper switch — removal and refitting
refitting
1 Remove the upper and lower parts of the instrument nacelle as
1 The reversing light switch on later models is mounted on the left- described in Section 40, paragraphs 1 to 7.
hand side of the gearbox turret and there is no top cover extension to 2 Remove the two screws from the mounting bracket and withdraw
the gearbox (photo). the switch and its harness.
2 Remove the rubber gaiter from around the gear lever, then 3 Separate the harness connector.
proceed as in the previous Section, paragraphs 3°to 5. 4 Refit the switch by reversing the removal operations.

49 Handbrake switch — removal and refitting

45 Luggage boot switch — removal and refitting
1 Pull apart the Nelcro fastenings at the top edge of the handbrake
1 Open the boot lid and locate the switch which is mounted on the
gauntlet.
right-hand hinge.
2 Disconnect the Lucar connector, remove the single Pozidriv screw
2 Pull the switch off its bracket and disconnect the bullet connector.
and remove the switch.
3 Reverse the operations to refit the switch, taking care to ensure a
3 When refitting the switch, ensure that there is a good electrical
good electrical contact between the switch and the metal of the car
contact between the switch and its mounting
body.

50 Stop lamp switch — removal and refitting

46 Oil pressure switch — removal and refitting
1 The removal and refitting of this is described in Chapter 9 Section
1 Locate the switch, which is on the left-hand side of the engine
(photo).
2 Disconnect the Lucar connector, then use a spanner on the
hexagon to screw the switch out of the engine block. 51 Choke switch — removal and refitting
3 When refitting the switch, smear jointing compound on to the
threads and screw the switch in until it is firm. Do not attempt to 1 Remove the clutch control, as described in Chapter 3 Section 11,
screw the switch in the full extent of its thread, because the thread is paragraphs 1 to 3.
tapered. 2 Remove the small screw which clamps the switch to the cable,
then slide the clip off the switch and remove the switch and clip.
3 When refitting, position the assembly so that the switch plunger is
located in the hole in the outer cable housing, then refit the clip and
47 Heated backlight switch — removal and refitting clamp screw.

1 On later models the heated backlight switch is a single hole fixing

to the main instrument panel and is removed by unscrewing the knob, 52 Steering column combination switch — removal and refitting
then removing the bezel ring.
2 On models having the illuminated switch fitted to a bracket 1 Remove the upper and lower parts of the instrument nacelle as
beneath the instrument panel, proceed as follows. described in Section 40, paragraphs 1 to 7.
3. Isolate the battery. 2 Remove the two screws and remove the windscreen washer/wiper
4 Slacken the steering column clamp bolt and push the steering switch.
column up as far as possible to make access easier. 3 Measure the exposed length of the two fixing screws and then
5 Unscrew the switch knob and remove the bulb and spring. remove the screws.
6 Disconnect the switch from the harness by withdrawing its plug. 4 Collect up the clamp and then remove the switch and its harness.
7 Remove the parcel shelf supporting screws from the right-hand 5 When refitting the switch, first position the switch and its harness.
end of the shelf, so that the shelf can be flexed. 6 Assemble the switch with the clamp member and with the screws
8 Remove the screw and washer from the right-hand side of the air finger tight.
outlet console. 7 To ensure that the switch stalk operates centrally through the
9 Remove the four screws securing the switch bracket and nacelle aperture, tighten the two screws so that their exposed length is
manoeuvre the switch and bracket out. the same as was measured when the switch was removed.
10 Unscrew the bezel, remove the switch and its spring washer. 8 Refit the windscreen washer/wiper switch and reconnect the
11 When refitting the switch, fit the top flange of the bracket between master lighting switch, making reference to Sections 41 and 48 as
the facia and the console air outlet assembly. necessary.

40.3 Access to starter switch 44.1 Reversing light switch (single rail 46.1 Oil pressure switch
gearbox)
—" 42 Chapter 10 Electrical system
5 When reconnecting the wires, connect the brown wire or wires to
53 Cigarette lighter — removal and refitting one end of one of the fuses and connect all the purple wires to its other
end.
1 Isolate the battery. 6 Connect the white wire or wires to one end of the second fuse and
2 Disconnect the inner choke cable from the trunnion at the car- connect all the green wires to its other end.
burettors, then pull the knob from inside the car to remove the inner
cable.
3 Unscrew and remove the bezel from the choke outer cable. 56 Instruments — removal and refitting
4 Remove the two screws and washers to release the console air
outlet assembly and then carefully withdraw it. 1 The same general procedure should be adopted for the removal
5 Withdraw the cigarette lighter and disconnect the two bullet con- and refitting of any instrument.
nectors and one Lucar connector. 2 Remove the screw from each of the four corners of the instrument
6 Squeeze the sides of the bulb cowl and slide it off the body of the panel and pull the panel assembly forward as far as the cable har-
lighter, unclip the bulb holder from the bulb cowl and if it is necessary nesses will allow.
to change the bulb, remove the bulb from its bayonet fitting. 3 Note the positions of the indicator lamps and the colours of the
7 Insert a pair of snipe-nosed pliers into the body of the lighter to cables attached to the instrument and then remove them.
engage with the cross-piece at the bottom of the bore. Turn the cross- 4 Remove the instrument cluster complete by undoing and remov-
piece while holding the duter casing and screw out the inner well. ing its retaining clips, or remove the two screws to remove an
8 Assemble and refit in the reverse order. Locate the lighter so that individual instrument from a cluster as appropriate.
the dots for the bulb cowl are uppermost. 5 When refitting the instrument clusters, make sure that any earth
9 Reconnect the wires as follows:- tags attached to their mounting screws are refitted.
6 Take care not to trap any part of tne wiring harness when refitting
Purple wire to centre terminal the instrument panel and after fitting it, pull any excess speedometer
Red/blue wire to bulb red/white wire cable through the front bulkhead into the engine compartment.
Black wire to body earth terminal

10 When refitting the console air inlet, ensure that the top flange of
the heated backlight switch (1500TC) is between the facia and the 57 Speedometer — rernoval and refitting
console air outlet assembly.
1 Either remove the fixing screw from each of the corners of the .
facia panel and pull the panel forward to gain access to its rear, or
reach up behind the panel and perform the operations blind.
54 Voltage stabilizer — removal and refitting
2 Pull out the panel light bulb holder.
1 Open the bonnet and secure the lid. 3 Disconnect one Lucar earth connector.
4 Remove two knurled nuts, spring washers and clamp legs, and
2 Locate the voltage stabilizer on the bulkhead above the fusebox
(photo). withdraw the instrument from the panel.
5 After refitting the speedometer as a reverse of removal, pull any
3 Disconnect two Lucar connectors and remove two fixing screws.
spare speedometer drive cable through into the engine compartment.
4 Reverse the operations to refit the unit; connect the green wire tc
terminal B and the light green wire to terminal |.

58 Speedometer cable (complete) — removal and refitting.

55 Fuse box — removal and refitting
1 Remove the instrument panel fixing sctews and lower the panel to
1 Open the bonnet and secure the lid. ensure easy access to the speedometer.
2 Locate the fuse box on the bulkhead and remove its lid if fitted 2 Either unscrew the knurled ring attaching the drive cable to the
(photo). instrument, or release the clip as appropriate and disconnect the drive
3 Pull off all the Lucar connectors and remove the two fuses. from the instrument.
4 Remove the two Pozidriv fixing screws and lift off the fuse box. 3 Note the route of the cable from the front bulkhead to the gearbox,

54.2 The voltage stabilizer 55.2 The fusebox

 Chapter 10 Electrical system 143

; S
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20

Fig. 10.6 Instruments and switches on the facia panel (1500TC & Dolomite) (Sec. 16)

7 Hazard warning switch 712 Retaining plate 23 Windscreen wiper switch

2 Choke outer cable — primary 13 Locking nut 24 Light selector switch
3 Flasher unit 14 Spring washer 25 Bezel
4 Grommets 715 Rubber washer 26 Rubber washer
5 Connecting sleeve 16 Bezel 27 PVC washer
6 Choke outer cable — secondary 17 Screw 28 Spacer nut
7 Choke inner cable 718 Voltage stabilizer 29 Locknut
8 Pivot and screw assembly 19 2" in 1" instrument gauge 30 Light switch unit
9 Speedometer outer cable 20 Dual brake warning light 31 Windscreen wiper and washer switch
10 Speedometer — inner cable 21 Speedometer assembly 32 Spacer
11 Clip 22 Bezel

so that the cable may be refitted using exactly the same route..
4 Remove the speedometer drive from the rear of the gearbox 59 Speedometer cable (inner) — removal and refitting
(Chapter 1, photo 5.20). This connection may be a plate held by a
single screw, or it may be a knurled ring. 1 Remove the instrument panel fixing screws and pull the panel
5 Release the speedometer cable from the clip securing it to the assembly forward.
gearbox. 2 Disconnect the speedometer drive from the instrument as in
6 Puli the cable and its grommet through the hole in the front Section 58, paragraph 2.
bulkhead and then remove the cable assembly from below the vehicle. 3 Withdraw the inner cable, taking care not to allow it to come into
7 Refit the instrument end of the cable first and refit the instrument contact with any of the car upholstery or carpets.
panel. Refit the grommet to its panel and pull any slack drive cable into 4 Torefit the cable, first grease it sparingly. Do not use oil.
the engine compartment. 5 Carefully feed the inner cable into the outer one, turning it in a
8 Re-route the cable to the gearbox, being careful to follow the clockwise direction, to assist the threading and the engagement of the
same route as the cable which was removed. squared end into the drive gear.
9 Refit the gearbox connection and tighten it. If there is a knurled 6 Withdraw about 8 in (200 mm) of the inner cable, wipe off the
ring connection, take great care not to get the ring cross-threaded and surplus grease and then insert the inner cable fully.
tighten it fully to prevent erratic movement of the speedometer needle. 7 Reconnect to the instrument and refit the instrument panel.
144 Chapter 10 Electrical system
ee

60 Fault diagnosis — electrical system

Symptom Reason/s

Starter
Fails to turn engine Battery discharged, or defective
Battery terminal loose, or dirty
Starter motor solenoid faulty
Starter motor defective
Starter motor lead, or earthing strap loose

Turns engine slowly Battery discharged, or defective

Battery terminal loose, or dirty
Starter motor solenoid faulty
Starter motor lead, or earthing strap loose

Spins, but does not turn engine Starter motor clutch defective

Noisy on engagement Loose mounting bolts

Battery
Does not hold charge Battery defective
Electrolyte level low
Fan belt slipping
Alternator or regulator defective

Ignition light stays on Broken fan belt

Alternator defective

Horn
Operates all the time Horn push stuck, or horn cable is earthed

Fails to operate Blown fuse

Wiring fault
Defective horn

Sounds intermittently Intermittent wiring fault such as dirty connection

Defective horn

Lights
Give poor illumination Dirty contact or corroded earth connection

Wipers
Motor fails to work Blown fuse
Switch or wiring fault
Worn brushes

Work slowly, or erratically Excessive load caused by worn linkage or lack of lubrication
Worn or dirty brushes
 145

See pages 146 to 157 for wiring diagrams

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Chapter 11 Suspension and steering
Contents we

Fault diagnosis — suspension and steering Outer balljoint assembly — inspection, removal and refitting
Front anti-roll bar — removal, rebushing and refitting (Dolomite) . 7 Rack-and-pinion steering gear — dismantling, overhaul and
ErOnitanuUb beatings aGjUStIMEM(Son sma se Se eis. se es @ oes 3 reassembly
Front hub bearings — removal and refitting ................ 2) Rack-and-pinion steering gear — removal and refitting
Front spring and damper — removal and refitting ............ 4 Radius rod — removal and refitting
Front suspension lower wishbone arm and radius rod — removal, Rear damper — removal, inspection and refitting
renewing the balljoint and rubber bushes, and refitting ........ 6 Rear hub assembly — removal and refitting
Front suspension upper wishbone arms — removal, rebushing and Rear suspension arm — removal and re‘itting
REL (itmeareN eye tra comet cach. ccaccety cs abe titare alqeinrehe wcowes 3 5 Rear wheel alignment
Front suspension vertical link upper balljoint — removal, overhaul and Steering column — dismantiing, overhaul and reassembly
OUMMUTRYS) ‘ancy 6/Askhe three ey oes Res otc ceCree en eee ee ee 8 Steering column lock and ignition switch — removal and refitting
rOMmWVNESlalGmMMonts men. mee cio wists pose 4 oe eee ko eee 22 Steering column — removal and refitting
EFrontwheelicamber—'settingup ... 0.20.5... -..06.5a se we 24 Steering wheel — removal and refitting
GeENeTAlCeSCHDUOM parent. Mekvncce titi sence Geceeuc acre cue thoe, ah 1 Vertical link lower balljoint — removal, joint overhaul and refitting
Intermediate shaft — removal, inspection and refitting ........ 20

Specifications

Suspension
Front Independent, with coil springs and telescopic dampers operating on
upper wishbones. Single lower transverse wishbones with trailing
radius rods.
Live rear axle with coil springs and telescopic dampers.

Steering
Type Rack-and-pinion.
Steering wheel diameter 16 in (407 mm)
Number of turns, lock to lock 3y
Turning circle 30 ft 6 in (9.3 metres)
Geometry
Wheelbase 96.6 in (245.4 cm)
Front track
1500TC 53.0 in (134.6 cm)
Dolomite 53.2 in (135.2 cm)

Rear track
1500TC 50.0 in (127.0 cm)
Dolomite 49.9 in (126.7 cm)
Front wheel alignment O to Xin (0 to 1.6 mm) toe-in
Camber angle
Unladen 14° positive to 4° negative
4-up Zero to 14° negative

Unladen 23 ° °

4-up 27 ° °

King pin inclination

Unladen

Wheels Steel disc type, 13 x 44J rims

155SR — 13 radial ply

Pressures Front Rear

1500TC 22 Ibf/in? (1.54 kgf/cm?) 26 Ibf/in? (1.82 kgf/cm?)
Dolomite 26 Ibf/in? (1.82 kgf/cm?) 30 Ibf/in? (2.1 kgf/cm?)
|
a Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 153
Torque wrench settings
Front suspension Ibf ft kgf m
Ball pin to vertical link 50 7.0
Calipertowventicalilinkieemene ite ne ats kts Wesel cian vee. 65 9.0
Dampenplatetonwvishbonemmrs. ers icra at weno cree 34 47
Dampemtomppemnwishbomern mamiaer. sn ein ca wae: oor. . 34 47
Dust shields to vertical links 65 9.0
MMATOMCIISLOEIME NUS) Sonic po owe ontadllenolhcssconae hoemonue 34 47
Erontsubtrame:to) bodymountings: aust see. oa aacie ees ai. aie 48 6.6
Suspension mounting bracket to subframe (2 in) 32 4.4
Suspension mounting bracket to subframe (8 in) 20 D7
LOW eDAll PintONVIShbOMe mcm carb witense easels «ernie er cate Pe 45 6.2
Lower wishbone to suspension mounting bracket 38 5.2
Strut to lower wishbone 65 9.0
STU tetOYSUlO anne waewat eet y ee Ree hie, 4. A Gen, hares. J.1 Rtn eg),- 38 5.2
Stub axle to vertical link ....... cya ogee rane,ele 80 11.0
Ne-rod| lever, and balljoint to'verticalilink .................0...0: 65 9.0
Upper balljoint and damper plate to upper wishbone .............. 34 47
Upper wishbone to fulcrum shaft 38 5.2
Wheel to hub 48 6.6
Rear suspension
LOVE TAI KaLO: DOCV Mencia ta (a. CREA RO NcRS IT osUm ted weer maviton cies 48 6.6
RUSEIPOR LenChale =2 ae gua,Sle See) COR. coe Cy ea ete es 9 12
Re aigClamp ClatOuOvve FaultKaen t apsnn mines suse estore Sue eS eee eo 37 5.1
ReatealibsslOuLecin cm menaeccuyem eens cin rah 4S codesteslerete nce eycere ees 5 0.69
REaESUSHENSIONMLACKEIMININGS: crcucwtmons cisksnentii arc @ ae ran wanes 20 2.6
Upper tinksto body brackets and axles iiss bc dans sneha ccs twats 38 5.2
Steering
BOVE COMDUNGIDINGI OOMS zum: 2 eke chk bakerc rots chonchar ayera olen aaa serena we 14 1.9
Lower coupling shoulder boit 9 12
Lower support tube to body 9 ve
PEEVES Wen Ovare NM seshg A.ate att cacy AEA oC A RTE AIRED SI Gan oe a ee 14 1.9
SIiCEKING. COMMMNAAOWER Sup DO ntererspsuc: sates iiseeireas ) Alecc “arioreaese semtieiss Saas 9 1.2
Steering column support bracket to lower rail 9 2
Steering column support tube to support bracket ................. 9 1.2
Steering wheel nut 32 4.4
Universal joint to steering column 20 2.6

the top of the axle tube. These combine the-functions of torque reac-
1. General description tion links and stiffening members.
The steering system is a rack-and-pinion type, accommodated in
The front suspension is of the independent type, using double an oil-tight housing. It comprises a rack, having teeth which engage
wishbones. The combined coil spring and telescopic damper is fitted with a pinion carried on a short shaft, the lip of which is splined to
between the upper wishbones and a turret in the front wheel arch accept a universal joint coupling.
inner panel. The pinion gear is mounted at an angle to the rack and is positively
The front suspension units are mounted on a subframe which is located by a bush at the bottom of the housing, and a ball bearing and
rubber insulated at its four points of attachment to the body side retainer at its upper end. The rack is fitted with a spring loaded damper
members. to ensure constant mesh between the pinion and the teeth of the rack.
The inner ends of the upper wishbones are carried on rubber Lubrication is by grease, and a plug is fitted to the top of the
bushes on a long fulcrum bolt, which is located in a shimmed mount- damper cap nut. When lubrication is required, the plug must be
ing bracket bolted to the subframe. The camber angle may be adjusted removed and a grease-nipple fitted.
by altering the thickness of the shim pack. The outer ends of the rack housing tubes are fitted with rubber
The outer ends of the upper wishbones are double-bolted, and gaiters, which enclose the inner tie-rods, and prevent loss of lubricant
sandwich a flanged bracket; this is an integral part of the upper ball and the ingress of dirt.
housing for the vertical link and the two damper mounting plates. The An adaptor is splined and locked to the upper end of the pinion
upper hole in each of the damper mounting plates locates the through- shaft and this is coupled by means of a shaft and universal joint to an
bolt for the lower rubber mounting of the telescopic damper. upper splined adaptor fitted to a rubber-mounted plate. The lower end
There is a flange on the outside of the damper body, which of the steering column inner member is fitted to this upper adaptor,
provides a seating for the lower end of the coil spring. The upper end of and its upper end has the steering wheel fitted to it. The inner member
the spring fits into a dished plate which is attached to the turret is mounted on two ball races within the steering column outer
incorporated into the wheel arch, and the upper end of the damper is member.
secured to the turret. ' The steering column is adjustable for height and reach on some
The lower wishbones comprise a strut and an arm which has a models by slackening a clamp knob beneath the facia. All models have
spherical nylon bearing at its inner end, where it connects to the a steering lock.
wishbone bracket. The open end of the strut holds the wishbone arm
and its upper end is bolted to the wishbone.
The inner end of the strut is rubber insulated from, and secured to, 2 Front hub bearings — removal and refitting
the subframe, by a nylon nut. The strut also acts as a radius arm and
on models having a front anti-roll bar, the bar is fitted to it. 1. Jack-up the front of the car and support it on firmly based axle
The rear suspension consists of coil springs and concentrically stands or blocks. Remove the appropriate wheel trim and roadwheel.
mounted dampers, carried on trailing arms. The arms are anchored to 2 Remove the nut and bracket which secure the brake hose to the
the vehicle body at their forward ends and their rear ends support the vertical link.Ifnecessary refer to Chapter 9 for further information.
axle casing. Two upper radius rods connect the body and brackets on 3 Remove the two bolts and spring washers used to secure the
 154 Chapter 11 Suspension
haired and steering ke a Se
a cd hide
caliper to the vertical link. renewed in sets.
4 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver, carefully ease off the grease cap. 12 Inspect the oil seal journal face of the stub axle shaft for signs of
5 Straighten the split cotter and extract it (photo). Undo and remove damage. If evident, polish with very fine emery paper and metal polish,
the hub nut and withdraw the thrust washer. Draw the hub from the or if very bad it will be necessary to renew the stub axle.
axle stub, complete with the oil seal. 13 To reassemble, first carefully drive the outer bearing tracks inte the
6 Remove the outer bearing cone. hubs using a piece of tubing of suitable diameter. Make sure that the
7 Using a screwdriver, ease out the felt seal from the inner bearing taper is facing outwards from the centre of the hub and that they are
shield, then remove the inner bearing shield and inner bearing cone. fully pressed home.
8 Whether or not the intention is to renew the bearings, it is advis- 14 Partially pack the hub with a multi-purpose high melting point
able to remove them from the hub for inspection. This can be done by grease. Work some grease into the inner bearing cone and fit it into the
carefully driving out the outer track from the hub. hub.
9 Before any cleaning, loosely assemble the bearing parts together 15 Fit the inner bearing shield with the lip facing outwards. Lubricate
and check that there is no ‘grittiness’ when the parts are rotated. If the a new felt seal and press it into the inner bearing shield.
parts do not run smoothly renew them in sets. 16 Fit the hub to the axle stub. Work some high melting point grease
10 If the bearings are satisfactory, wash all the parts carefully in into the outer bearing cone and fit it in the hub.
paraffin or petrol. Shake off the surplus then dry them using a lint-free 17 Refit the washer and nut. he
cloth. 18 Adjust the hub bearing endfloat as detailed in Section 3 ani fit a
11 Inspect the bearings for any signs of pitting, scoring, corrosion, new split cotter when adjustment is complete.
over-heating or other damage. If evident, the bearings must be 19 Refit the grease cap, roadwheel and wheel trim. Lower the front of
the car to the ground.

3 Front hub bearings — adjustment

1 Jack up the front of the car and support on firmly based axle
stands.
2 Remove the wheel trim, roadwheel and grease cap.
3 Straighten and remove the split cotter.
4 Tighten or slacken the castellated nut as necessary to obtain
0.002 to 0.008 in (0.05 and 0.2 mm) endfloat between the inner face
of the locknut and the washer.
5 Fit a new split cotter and place in position without moving the
locknut more than one section. Lock the assembly by opening the end
of the split cotter.
6 Fit the grease cap and replace the roadwheel and whee! trim. It
will be observed that the endfloat setting achieved can cause a con-
siderable amount of movement when the tyre is ‘rocked’. Do not
reduce the endfloat any further provided it has been set correctly as
described. The bearings must not on any account be pre-loaded.

4 Front spring and damper — removal and refitting

1 Before commencing work, a special tool (Fig. 11.4) will be

Fig. 11.1 Section through front wheel hub (Sec. 2) necessary to compress the coil spring so that the dampers can be
released from the spring. Due to the strong tension of the spring, do
1 Outer bearing 3 Oil seal
not attempt to remove the spring without a spring compressor.
2 Inner bearing 4 Stub axle locknut 2 Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the wheel on the opposite
side of the car to that being worked upon. Remove the front wheel trim
and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place on axle stands.

Fig. 11.2 Exploded view of front wheel hub (Sec. 3)

us > , 17 Hub grease cap 7 Hub

2. Split pin 8 Bearing track
3 Locknut 9 Inner bearing
2.5 Front hub grease cap removed, showing nut and split cotter
4 Washer 10 Bearing shield
5 Outer bearing 771 Oilseal
6 Bearing track 12 Brake disc
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 155
Remove the roadwheel.
3 Support the weight of the front disc and hub assembly to prevent
it dropping in the subsequent operations.
4 Undo and remove the nut and bolt that connects the bottom of the
damper to the suspension upper wishbone fishplates. Slacken the two
bolts securing the damper mounting plates to the wishbone and ball-
joint.
5 Undo and remove the three nuts with plain and spring washers
from the top of the turret in the side of the engine compartment
(photo).
6 Lift away the front spring and damper from the wheel arch.
7 If it is necessary to separate the spring from the damper, take the
assembly along to the local Leyland garage who will have the
necessary equipment to do the work. Should, however, the special tool
be available, follow the instructions in the subsequent paragraphs.
8 Using the press, compress as many coils as possible of the road
spring, just enough to relieve the load from the damper top nuts.
9 Undo and remove the locknut, nut, washer, rubber bush and cap
from the top of the damper.
10 Very carefully release the load from the road spring and then lift
away the parts from the press. :
11 Withdraw the damper from the upper spring plate and road spring.
12 Unless the car has completed a very high mileage, has been used
under very arduous conditions or involved in an accident, it will not be
necessary to renew the spring. If the car has shown signs of a list it
nay well be that the spring requires renewal; your Leyland dealer will
be able to tell you whether the spring is at fault and also to advise
whether a chassis alignment check is required. If one spring is
renewed the other one should be renewed also.
13 Inspect the damper for signs of a damaged or dented body, bent
piston rod, slackened mounting flange or fluid leakage. If evident, a
new damper should be fitted as it is not a repairable item.
14 If the damper appears to be mechanically sound, hold the unit
vertically, and slowly extend and compress it approximately ten times
Fig. 11.3 Front spring and damper (Sec. 4) through its full operating range. Resistance must be considerable and
constant whilst being extended and compressed. It is well worth while
1 Locknut 6 Plate assembly fitting a new rubber bush (Fig. 11.5) to the eye at the bottom of the
2 Full nut 7 Fixing bolts damper because this can sometimes eliminate squeaks and knocks. A
3 Cup washer 8 Spring little rubber grease will ease the fitting of the bush.
4 Stem rubber 9 Damper 15 Should there be no resistance, only slight resistance in one or both
5 Cap directions, excessive resistance, or a region of no resistance when the
direction is reversed, a new damper must be obtained.
16 To reassemble the spring and damper, first fit the washers and
rubber to the top of the damper.
17 Extend the damper and insert it into the road spring and upper
spring plate.
18 Using the special spring compressor, compress the road spring
sufficiently to enable the fitting of the damper attachment to the upper
spring plate.
19 Refitting the spring and damper assembly is the reverse sequence
to removal. It is however, important that before the bolt is fully

4.5 Front damper upper attachment nuts

Fig. 11.4 Using the special tool to compress a coil spring (Sec. 4)
156 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

17 Fit the outer plain washer, upper rear wishbone arm (cranked end
away from nuts) and inner plain washer to the fulcrum shaft.
18 Insert the fulcrum shaft into the rear of the wishbone bracket.
19 Fit the inner plain washer, upper front wishbone arm (cranked end
towards rear arm), plain washer and Nyloc nut. Do not tighten the
Nyloc nut at this stage. Note:/t is recommended that the Nyloc nut is
renewed since it can easily be damaged during removal and would
therefore give an incorrect ‘run-down’ torque when tightened /ater.
20 Fit the wishbone bracket and shim(s) to the subframe and secure
with the four bolts and nuts. It is extremely important that the same
shims that were removed are refitted, or the correct wheel camber will
be lost.
21 Fit the lower wishbone to the wishbone bracket and secure with
the bolt and nut. Do not tighten at this stage.
22 Engage the balljoint in the upper wishbone and insert the
triangular plates. Fit the two bolts and nutswto the wishbone arms,
olates, and balljoint stem.
23 Fit the lower end of the damper to the wishbone, and secure with
the nut and bolt.
24 Tighten the three nuts and bolts securing the balljoint and damper
SPD to the wishbone.
25 Whatever was used to support the weight of the disc and hub
should now be removed.
26 Fit the roadwheel and remove the axle stands which were used for
Fig. 11.5 Sectional view of damper bush (Sec. 4) support.
27 Now tighten the nut and bolt securing the lower wishbone to the
tightened, the vehicle is loaded by placing 150 Ibs (68 kg) on each suspension bracket.
seat (the rear seat must be considered as two seats). Tighten the bolt 28 Tighten the Nyloc nut on the forward end of the upper fulcrum
securely. shaft to 46 to 50 Ibf ft (5.23 to 6.77 kgf m).
29 |f any new component has been fitted, it is recommended that the
wheel camber angle is checked at a Leyland garage and reset if
5 Front suspension upper wishbone arms — removal, rebushing necessary.
and refitment

1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the wheels on the opposite
side of the car to that to be worked upon. Remove the front wheel trim 6 Front suspension lower wishbone arm and radius rod —
and slacken the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and support on axle removal, renewing the balljoint and rubber bushes, and refitting
stands. Remove the roadwheel.
2 Support the weight of the disc and hub. 1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the wheels on the opposite
3 Remove the two bolts which clamp the upper wishbone arms to side of the car to that worked upon. Slacken the wheel nuts, jack-up
the steering upper balljoint. the car and support on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
4 Release the bolt and nut securing the inner end of the lower 2 Support the weight of the disc and hub.
wishbone to the wishbone bracket; ease the lower wishbone out ofthe 3 Disconnect the anti-roll bar, if fitted, from the attachment point on
bracket. the subframe and radius rod on whichever side of the car you are
5 Detach the balljoint from the wishbone. working. Refer to the following Section, if necessary, for further infor-
6 Remove the four nuts and bolts (three upper and one lower) that mation.
secure the wishbone bracket to the subfrarne. Withdraw the wishbone 4 If it isnecessary to remove the radius rod, first take out the cotter,
bracket and any packing shims that are fitted behind it. Carefully note the nut, dished washer and outer rubber bush from the subframe end
exactly what shims are removed. This is vital, because they are used to of the radius rod. Withdraw the radius rod complete with its inner
set the wheel camber. rubber bush and flat washer.
7 Remove the Nyloc nut and washer at the forward end of the upper 5 Using a universal balljoint separator and suitable thrust pad,
wishbone fulcrum shaft, and withdraw the front wishbone arm and separate the lower wishbone arm from the steering arm.
inner washer. 6 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securing the radius arm to the
8 Withdraw the fulcrum shaft, rear wishbone arm and plain washers. lower wishbone arm.
9 Inspect the rubber bushes for wear. If evident, new bushes will 7 Undo and remove the nut and bolt securing the lower wishbone
have to be fitted, and for this operation either a press or a large bench arm to the lower wishbone bracket.
vice will be necessary. 8 Withdraw the lower wishbone arm and take off the water shield
10 Obtain a piece of tube with an internal diameter slightly larger and balljoint seal from the balljoint at the inner end.
than the external diameter of the bush. Place it behind the bush and, 9 Inspect the balljoint assembly for any tendency to seize and for
using a piece of rod slightly smaller in diameter than the bush outer any sloppiness. If either is present, the balijoint must be renewed. At
diameter, push out the old bush. the same time check the water shield and balljoint seal for wear and
11 Using coarse emery cloth, clean the eye of the suspension arm and general deterioration. Any unserviceable or suspect parts should be
lubricate with rubber grease. renewed.
12 Place a bolt in the tube of the new rubber bush and press into 10 If it is found necessary to renew the balljoint assembly, it must be
position. renewed as a complete item.
13 Inspect the wishbone bracket for fractures or evidence of corro- 11 If the radius rod was removed previously, carefully examine the
sion, and check the fulcrum shaft for fractures, corrosion or score rubber bushes for wear and general deterioration. If the condition of
marks. Renew if damaged. the rubber bushes is unsatisfactory, or that of the plain and dished
14 Dismantling and inspection of the balljoints is covered in Section washers, they must be renewed.
8. 12 When refitting the radius rod, first fit the flat washer with the
15 Refitting the bracket and wishbones is essentially the reverse of radiused inner diameter towards the spigot, followed by the outer bush
dismantling, and is as follows. with the plain face towards the flat washer. Fit the radius rod to the
16 Check the position and tightness of the two nuts on the end ofthe subframe, the inner rubber bush to the radius rod (with the plain face
fulcrum shaft. They should be located on the shaft with one full thread towards the front of the car), and then the dished washer.
projecting beyond the locknut. The locknut should be tightened to 46 13 Fit the rear end of the radius rod to the lower wishbone, then fit
to 50 Ibf ft (6.23 to 6.77 kgf m). the nut and cotter. If the cotter has been damaged in any way a new
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 157

Fig. 11.6 Front suspension components

1 Lower wishbone arm 7 Coil spring 13 Nut

2 Mounting bracket 8 Wishbone bracket mounting bolts 14 Locknut
3 Bolts securing balljoint and damper 9 Fulcrum shaft 15 Vertical link
4 Balljoint 10. Inner washer 16 Steering arm
5 Radius arm 11 Wishbone arm 17 Steering tie-rod
6 Damper 72 Outer washer

one must be fitted. not tighten the bolt and nut securing the wishbone to the inner bracket
14 If the radius rod was not removed, the lower wishbone and anti- until all other components have been fitted, the car has been lowered
roll bar can be refitted. This is the reverse procedure to removal, but do to the ground and is resting on its wheels.
158 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering
a

the radius rods.

7 Front anti-roll bar — removal, rebushing and refitting 5 If the brackets have not been removed previously, they can now be
(Dolomite) removed with the links from the anti-roll bar. It may be necessary to
grip the plain shank of the link stud in a vice to enable it to be pulled off
1 Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the rear wheels. Raise the the anti-roll bar.
front of the car and support it securely on axle stands, or blocks. It is 6 If the rubbers underneath the brackets have deteriorated, they
not necessary to remove the front roadwheels. must be cut from the anti-roll bar and one of the end links must be
2 Remove the Nyloc nuts which secure the anti-roll bar to the radius removed, so that new rubbers can be fitted. Clean the anti-roll bar
rods. carefully and lubricate it with rubber grease, or brake fluid, then slide
3 Remove the two bolts from each of the subframe fixings of the the new rubbers into position.
mounting brackets. The brackets can be removed if desired. 7 Inspect the rubber bushes in the links and if they have deteriorated
4 Remove the anti-roll bar links, complete with their spacers, from and are not satisfactory, renew them.

Fig. 11.8 Front anti-roll bar attachments (Sec. 7)

EE
Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 159
8 When refitting the anti-roll bar, just press the brackets on to the
rubbers and then fit the assembly to the subframe loosely. 8 Front suspension vertical link upper balljoint — removal, over-
9 Fit the spacers to the radius rods and connect the anti-roll bar haul and refitting
links. If the links were removed from the anti-roll bar they will need to
be refitted and the ends of the anti-roll bar should be smeared with 1. Apply the handbrake firmly and chock the rear wheels. Slacken the
rubber grease to facilitate this. wheel nuts, jack the car and support it on an axle stand or blocks, then
10 Fit the Nyloc nuts to the anti-roll bar links and tighten them to a remove the roadwheel.
torque of 14 Ibf ft (2.0 kgf m). 2 Support the vertical link and hub assembly so that the flexible
11 Tighten the mounting brackets to the subframe. brake hose cannot be strained.
12 Fit the wheels if they have been removed, then lower the car to the 3 Detach the hose support bracket from the vertical link.
ground. 4 Undo and remove the nut and plain washer securing the balljoint
to the vertical link, then use a balljoint separator to release the balljoint
pin from the vertical link.
5 Undo and remove the two nuts and bolts clamping the wishbone
arms to the joint and remove the joint.
6 Check the endfloat, which should not exceed 0.004 in (0.102
mm). If endfloat is excessive, remove the gaiter clip, the gaiter and the
internal circlip and carefully wash all the parts in petrol or paraffin. Dry
them with a lintfree cloth and inspect them carefully for signs of corro-
sion, scoring, or pitting. Any defective parts, including the gaiters and
gaiter clips, should be renewed.
7 (If it is necessary to remove the plastic socket, chisel this out
carefully, taking care not to damage the housing.
8 If a new socket is being fitted, press it into the housing using the
ball.
9 Assemble the pin and the lower seat without any grease.
10 Fit the circlip and measure the balljoint endfloat. The bearing
should rotate freely and the endfloat should not exceed 0.004 in
(0.102 mm). Select a suitable lower ball seat and shims to meet this
requirement. Three sizes are available and shims of 0.005 in and
0.010 in (0.127 mm and 0.254 mm) enable this requirement to be
met.
11 Dismantle the joint, lubricate with multi-purpose grease and
reassemble. Ensure that the open end of the circlip is at right angles to
the shank of the ball housing.
12 Partially pack the gaiter with grease, then fit the gaiter and its clip.
13 Fit a grease nipple to the hole in the plug (photo) and charge the
assembly with multi-purpose grease, taking care not to over-fill it and
burst the gaiter. Remove the grease nipple and refit the plug and
washer (photo).
14 Complete the reassembly operations as a reversal of removal.

Fig. 11.9 Upper balljoint details (Sec. 8)

9 Vertical link lower balljoint — removal, joint overhaul and refitt-
1 Rubber boot 5 Plug ing
2 Circlip 6 Washer
3 Balljoint 7 Ball upper seat 1. Apply the handbrake fully and chock the wheels on the opposite
4 Ball lower seat side of the car to that to be worked upon. Slacken the wheel nuts, jack
up the car and support on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.
2 Undo and remove the nut and plain washer securing the steering

es ,

8.13a Hole for grease nipple 8.13b Plug and washer refitted
160 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

—_ > >

1 Fig. 11.10 Lower bailjoint details (Sec. 9)

1 Rubber boot § Circlip

2 Bailljoint 6 Top cover
3 Ball upper seat 7 Spring disc
4 Sealing cap 8 Lower ball seat

rack outer balljoint to the steering arm

3 Using a universal balljoint separator and suitable thrust pad,
separate the balljoint pin from the steering arm.
4 Undo and remove the two bolts and spring washers which secure
the arm to the vertical link. acs yes
5 Separate the steering arm from the lower wishbone, first undoing 5 & TIO TAA MA
and removing the nut and spring washer, and then using a universal | cals
balljoint separator and suitable thrust block.
6 To dismantle the ballioint for inspection, take out the sealing cap,
circlip, top cover, spring disc and ball upper seat. Wash all the parts
thoroughly in petrol or paraffin and dry with a lint-free cloth.
7 Carefully inspect the parts for corrosion, scoring and pitting, and
renew any which exhibit these symptoms. Also renew the gaiters and
gaiter clips.
8 If it is necessary to remove the lower socket, a suitable chisel can
be used, but a good deal of care must be taken to prevent damage to
the housing. Fit a new socket with the elongation of the ball pin hole at
right angles to the steering arm mounting face. This will place the two
tags on a diameter which lies parallel to the mounting face. Insertion
of the socket will be easily accomplished by using the ball to press it
into the steering arm in a bench vice. Tap the end of the ball with the
threads suitably protected to ensure that the socket seats fully.
9 Reassembly and refitting is now the reverse sequence to dismantl-
ing and removal. All joint components should be liberally coated with
grease. The spring disc must be fitted with its outer tip upwards.

10 Rear hub assembly — removal and refitting

1 Chock the front wheels, jack-up the rear of the car and place on
firmly based axle stands.
2 Remove the roadwheel. Apply the handbrake.
3. Undo and remove the halfshaft nut and washer.
4 Release the handbrake and back off the brake adjuster (refer to
Chapter 9 for further information if necessary). Remove the two
countersunk head screws that retain the brake drum, then pull the
drum off. Fig. 11.11 Section through rear wheel hub (Sec. 10)
5 Using a universal puller and suitable thrust block, pull the hub from
the end of the axleshaft. 1 Halfshaft 5 Wheel nut
6 Remove the axleshaft key. 2 Inner oil seal 6 Hub
7 Refitting the rear hub assembly is the reverse sequence to 3 Bearing 7 Hub retaining nut and washer
removal. The halfshaft nut must be tightened to the torque wrench 4 Outer oil seal 8 Brake drum
setting given in the Specifications.
8 Refitting a rear hub oil seal is covered in Chapter 8 which details
removal of halfshafts and their associated bearings and oil seals.
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 161

dismantling could well result from the spring ‘flying’.

6 Either compress the spring with the special tool or fit the spring
‘keep’. Remove the locknut and plain nut securing the damper rod to
the mounting flange. Then withdraw the mounting flange complete
with upper rubber bush, washers and spring insulating ring. This will
leave the lower rubber bush and washers on the damper rod; withdraw
these and then lift away the coiled spring (still compressed).
7 Inspect the damper for signs of damaged or dented body, bent
piston rod, slackened mounting flange or fluid leakage. If evident, a
new damper should be fitted as it is not a repairable item.
8 If the damper appears to be mechanically sound, hold the unit
vertically, and slowly extend and compress it approximately ten times
— through its full operating range. Resistance must be considerable
and constant whilst being extended and compressed. It is well worth
while fitting a new rubber bush to the eye at the bottom of the damper,
as a worn bush sometimes causes quite a few squeaks and knocks. A
little rubber grease will! ease the fitting of the bush.
9 Should there be no resistance, only slight resistance in one or both
directions, excessive resistance, or a region of no resistance when the
direction is reversed, a new damper must be fitted.
10 Unless the car has completed a very high mileage, has been used
under very arduous conditions or involved in an accident, it will not be
necessary to renew the spring. If the car has shown signs of a list it
may well be that the spring requires renewal; your Leyland dealer will
be able to tell you whether the spring is at fault and also advise
whether a chassis alignment check is required. If one spring is
Fig. 11.12 Illustrating the correct method of tightening the rear renewed, the other one should be renewed also.
nub retaining nut: this prevents any undue load being placed on 11 Refitting the parts should be carried out in the reverse sequence to
the crownwheel-and-pinion (Sec. 10) removal. If the anti-roll bar was removed, and shims had originally
been used between the clamping faces on the suspension arm, these
must be refitted.
11 Rear damper — removal, inspection and refitting

1 Jack-up the rear of the car and support on firmly based axle stands 12 Radius rod — removal and refitting
located under the main longitudinal chassis members. Support the
weight of the axle on the side from which the damper is to be 1. Under normal circumstances it will not be necessary to remove
removed. the radius arms except when the rubber bushes have worn. To remove
2 Remove the four nuts and plain washers securing the damper the radius rod, jack-up the rear of the car and support on firmly based
upper mounting studs to the top of the rear spring turret, inside the stands. Also support the weight of the rear suspension by placing a
boot (photo). jack under the rear axle. Remove the roadwheels.
3 Release the nut and bolt securing the lower end of the damper to 2 Undo and remove the front securing nut and bolt, and withdraw
the rear suspension arm. from the radius rod eye. Draw the radius rod from its mounting and
4 Remove the nut and bolt that secures the front end of the rear recover the rubber bushing.
3. Now working at the rear of the radius rod, release the hairpin type
suspension arm to the body. Lower the rear suspension arm from its
cotter, remove the clamping nut and lift away the plain washer. Lift off
mounting bracket; this will provide sufficient access to withdraw the
the rear half of the rubber bushing. Draw the radius rod forwards and
damper complete with coil spring, from its location.
lift away from the underside of the car. Remove the second half of the
5 lf it is considered necessary to separate the spring from the
damper it is necessary to either obtain a special tool, ‘S4221A’ with rubber bushing.
adaptors 5 and 18, from a Leyland Agent, or use a spring ‘keep’. If
4 Inspect the rubber bushes for damage and deterioration. If any is
present it is essential that they are renewed; the same applies to the
these precautions are not followed, injury to the person doing the
plain and dished washers. If new bushes are to be fitted a little rubber
grease will facilitate the operation — no other lubrication should be
used.
5 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. The order of
assembly of the washers and rubber bushes is shown in the illustration
(Fig. 11.13).

13 Rear suspension arm — removal and refitting

1 Jack-up the rear of the car, support the body side members on axle
stands and place a jack under the rear axle.
2 Remove the bolt and nut securing the lower end of the damper to
the suspension arm.
3 Remove the bolt and nut securing the forward end of the suspen-
sion arm to the body bracket.
4 Remove the bolt and nut securing the rear end of the suspension
arm to the rear axle tube bracket.
5 Detach the suspension arm from the damper, axle bracket and
body bracket.
6 When refitting, engage the rear end of the suspension arm in the
axle bracket and fit the retaining bolt and nut.
7 Engage the lower end of the damper in the suspension arm and fit
11.2 Rear damper upper attachment nuts the retaining bolt and nut.
8 Engage the front end of the suspension arm in the body bracket
and fit tne retaining bolt and nut.
162 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

9 Remove the jack from the axle, and lower the car to the ground.
10 Tighten the attachment bolts at the damper, axle bracket and body
bracket.

14 Steering wheel — removal and refitting

1 Remove the two screws securing the steering wheel pad and lift
the pad off.
2 Remove the nut and washer securing the steering wheel to the
steering mast.
3 Put mating marks on the steering wheel hub and boss so that the
wheel can be refitted in exactly the same position on the splines.
4 Draw the steering wheel off its splines.
5 When refitting the wheel which has not had mating marks scribed
on disassembly, put the roadwheels in the straight-ahead position and
engage the steering wheel on the splines with the spokes of the wheel
horizontal.
6 Refit the washer and nut, and tighten to a torque of 32 Ibf fi (4.4
kgf m).
7 Refit the steering wheel pad.

15 Rack-and-pinion steering gear — removal and refitting

1. Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, jack-up the front of
the car and support on firmly based stands. Additionally remove the
front roadwheel on the side of the car which is nearest to the steering
column.
2 Undo the Nyloc nut securing the tie-rod ends to the steering arms.
Lift away the nut and plain washer.
3 Using a universai balljoint separator, detach the tie-rod ends from
Fig. 11.13 Rear suspension components and ancillaries the steering arms.
4 Undo and remove the nuts, washers, U-bolts. and locating plates
Handbrake cable support 9 Radius rod connection to securing the steering rack assembly to the front subframe.
bracket body 5 Mark the relative positions of the intermediate shaft coupling and
Handbrake cable 70 Suspension arm the rack pinion shaft.
Cable location point 11 Radius rod spring pin 6 Remove the pinch bolt from the intermediate shaft lower flexible
Brake hose union 12 Radius rod to axle securing coupling.
Damper nut 7 Ease the rack forward to disengage the pinion shaft from the
Suspension
DAaAAWNH arm connection 13 Washer flexible coupling and withdraw the rack from the vehicle.
to axle 14 Outer rubber bush 8 If the assembly is to be dismantled, remove all traces of road dirt
Damper lower mounting 15 Inner rubber bush or oil by washing in paraffin and wiping dry with a lint-free cloth, then
anchorage 16 Dished washer+ refer to the following Section.
Suspension arm connection 17 Dished washer 9 To refit the steering rack assembly first fit new rubber bushes and
718 Radius rod a new nylon damping plug.
10 Carefully position the rack in the subframe in a reverse manner to
Inset: Section through radius rod bushes removal.
11 Engage the pinion shaft splines in the intermediate shaft flexible
coupling, ensuring that the previously marked scribe-marks are
aligned. If no scribe-marks are present it will be necessary to centralize
the rack shaft, locate the rack in its fitted position and ensure that the
steering wheel spokes are horizontal before engaging the pinion shaft
in the flexible coupling.
12 Fit and tighten the pinch bolts in the flexible coupling, and check
that the rack mounting rubbers are correctly located.
13 Fit the bearer plate under the rack mounting rubber (not pinion
side).
14 Fit the rack clamp brackets and U-bolts, then compress the rack
rubbers ana tighten the U-bolts.
15 Refit the tie-rod ends to the steering arms and refit the roadwheel.
Lower the car to the ground.
16 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position, and secure the
steering couplings with the upper column and the steering wheel and
direction indicator cancelling clip in the straight-ahead position.
17 As the front wheel alignment will probably have been disturbed,
the car should be taken to the local Leyland garage to have the wheel
alignment reset. This should be carried out as soon as possible, and is
of particular importance after the steering gear has been dismantled.

a er
16 Rack-and-pinion steering gear — dismantling, overhaul and
reassembly
———
ee
1 With the exterior of the assembly clean, and free of dirt and oil,
Fig. 11.14 Rear suspension arm bushes (Sec. 13) release the gaiter clips and slide both gaiters outwards.
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 163

2 Slacken the locknuts and unscrew both tie-rod assemblies from

the rack.
3 Withdraw the small coil spring from each end of the rack.
4 Bend up the tab washer tab, unscrew the sleeve nut and remove
the tab washer, shims and thrust cap. Slacken the locknuts and
unscrew the tie-rod ends from their tie-rods.
5 Remove the locknut, gaiters, clips and cap nut from each tie rod.
6 Undo and remove the locknuts. Unscrew the cap nut and remove
the shims, spring and pressure pad from the housing.
7 Unscrew and withdraw the plug holding the pinion assembly to
the rack housing.
8 Carefully detach the rubber O-ring from its groove in the retainer.
Invert the plug and fit into the pinion shaft. Engage the two short bolts
in the tapped holes in the plug and tighten to grip the pinion shaft.
Using two screwdrivers, prise the pinion shaft clear of the housing.
Next, remove the circlip securing the ball-race to the pinion shaft and
withdraw the ball-race (Figs. 11.16 and 11.19).
9 Finally, withdraw the rack from the tube.
10 Thoroughly wash all components and then inspect for wear or
damage. Should the pinion bearings be worn, a complete new steering
rack must be obtained.
11 Check the bush in the end of the rack tube for wear. If evident, it
may be removed, using a suitable diameter drift; and a new one
inserted using a bench vice to press it into position.
12 With all parts ready for reassembly, carefully insert the rack into
the tube and refit the pinion.
13 Fit the pressure pad and cap nut to the rack tube. Tighten the plug
to just remove all endfloat and, using feeler gauges, measure the
clearance between the cap nut and housing faces.
14 Unscrew and remove the cap nut and pad.
15 Make up a shim pack equal to the cap/housing clearance pre-
viously determined plus 0.006 in (0.152 mm) nominal endfloat.
16 Pack the assembly with grease and assemble the cap nut, shim
pack, spring and pad to the housing. Tighten the cap nut.
17 Obtain a small spring scale and a piece of metal bar about twelve
inches (305 mm) long. Attach the metal bar to the pinion and, with the
spring scale, measure the force required to rotate the pinion shaft at a
radius of eight inches (203 mm) through three-quarters of a turn either
side of the mid-position. This force must not exceed 2 Ibs (0.95 kg)
and for the remainder of the rack travel, 3 Ibs (1.36 kg).
18 Should these figures be exceeded, adjust by adding or subtracting
shims from beneath the cap nut.
19 Continue reassembly by sliding the cap nut over the tie-rod and
insert the thrust cap into the cap nut.
20 Position the tab washer over the sleeve nut and screw this fully
into the cap nut.
21 With the cap nut held in a vice, pull and push the tie-rod so as to
estimate the approximate amount of ball lift.
22 Make-up a shim pack slightly thicker than the estimated ball lift
and insert this between the thrust cap and the sleeve nut.
23 Add or remove shims to obtain the required 0.0005 to 0.003 in
(0.0127 to 0.0762 mm) ball lift when the sleeve nut is firmly screwed
into the cap nut.
24 Test the ball to make sure that it can now move freely in the joint.
Should tightness occur at any point, increase the shim thickness suf-
ficiently to overcome this. Shims are available in 0.002, 0.004 and
0.010 in (0.051, 0.102 and 0.254 mm) sizes.
25 When adjustment is correct, lock the assembly by bending the
tabs of the tab washer over the sleeve nut and the cap nut.
26 Repeat the above sequence for the second inner balljoint.
27 Fit one locknut and spring to each end of the rack, and screw on
the tie-rod assemblies. Adjust the position of the tie-rod assemblies.
The distance between the inner and outer tie-ball joint centres should
be 93 in (233.4 mm). Tighten the two locknuts to a torque of 80 Ibf ft
(11 kgf m).
28 Pack the ends of the rack shafts and tie-rod inner balljoints with
clean grease, and fit and secure the gaiters. The unit is now ready for
refitting to the vehicle as described in the previous Section.
Fig. 11.15 Disconnection points to remove rack-and-pinion steer-
ing gear (Sec. 15) ja
17 Outer balljoint assembly — inspection, removal and refitting
4 U-bolts Se
1 Tie-rod
2 U-bolt nuts 5 Intermediate shaft pinch bolts 1 If the tie-rod outer balljoints are worn it will be necessary to renew
3 Rubber mountings the whole balljoint assembly as they cannot be dismantled and
repaired. To remove a balljoint, free the balljoint shank from the steer-
ing arm and mark the position of the locknut on the tie-rod accurately
 Fig. 11.16 Rack-and-pinion steering gear components (Sec. 16)

Nut, locking ballpin on rack Sleeve, adaptor Steering rack

Balljoint locknut Tab washer, locking ball housing to sleeve Gaiter securing clip
Washer Locating plate Gaiter (rubber)
Gaiter assembly Washer Gaiter securing clip
Outer balljoint assembly Shim (0-004 inch) pinion adjusting Outer balljoint assembly
Locknut, balljoint to ball pin Nut Mounting rubber
Ball pin Plunger Clamp, rack-and-pinion housing
Ball housing Spring plunger Bush, rack tube
Gaiter (rubber)
DANAAAWH™ Screwed cap, retaining plunger Plug (fitted in housing)
710 Ball socket Grease plug in screwed cap Pinien
11. Shim (0-002 inch) Pinion lower bush Pinion ball race
12 Shim (0-004 inch} Grease nipple in screwed cap Circlip
13° Shim (0.010 inch) End cover O-ring
14 Gaiter inner locking wire Housing Pinion end plug
715 Spring, inner balljoint

Note: All shims are a selective-fit on assembly

 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 165

Fig. 11.18 Section through the pinion shaft and pressure pad (Sec. Fig. 11.19 Removing the pinion shaft (Sec. 16)
16)
to ensure near accurate toe-in on reassembly. A universal balljoint
separator will be necessary for removing the shank from the steering
arm.
2 Slacken off the balljoint locknut, and holding the tie-rod by its flat
with a spanner, to prevent it from turning, unscrew the complete ball
assembly from the rod. Refitting is a straightforward reversal of this
process but it is very important to visit your local Leyland agent to
ensure that toe-in is correct.

18 Steering column -— removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery as a safety measure.

2 Disconnect the plug-in connectors for the ignition starter circuits
and for the horn/direction indicators/lights. It is well worth while
marking the respective plugs and sockets in order to facilitate refit-
ment.
3. Withdraw the ignition key and remove the three screws clamping Fig. 11.20 The steering column clamp (Sec. 18)
the nacelle halves together; remove the nacelle.
4 Remove the pinch bolt which secures the intermediate shaft to the 1 Clamp bracket bolt 3 Spring
lower end of the steering column, working from the engine compart- 2 Clamp 4 Bolt retaining pin
ment.
166 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering
Se
pe)
5 Slacken the steering column adjusting nut. 6 While the column is dismantled, thoroughly clean all the com-
6 Using a pin punch, extract the clamp bolt retaining pin from the ponent parts. Besides checking the bearings, also check the column for
bracket (Fig. 11.20). damage (ie., cracks, damaged splines, etc) and distortion. Renew any
7 Remove the clamp bracket bolt and wing nut, then take off the defective parts.
bracket by spreading the two halves apart at the top. Note the internal 7 When refitting the column, if a new lower bearing was fitted it
spring. should be greased and the spire washer fitted loosely at first.
8 The steering column can now be withdrawn. Note the steel 8 Next tighten the tapered nut fully, ensuring that backlash is
washer on the engine compartment side of the lower bush and the eliminated but that axial movement is freely obtainable.
plastic washer on the interior side. 9 Slide the column upwards into the housing, making sure that the
9 When reassembling, fit the steering column through the lower upper bearing is correctly positioned. Fit the retaining washer and
bush. Don’t forget the correct order for refitting the steel and plastic circlip at the upper end of the shaft, and load the assembly
washers. downwards.
10 With the roadwheels in the straight-ahead position and the steer-
ing wheel centralised, fit the splines on the steering column into the
intermediate shaft. Fit the pinch bolt when it is correctly located.
11 Fit the clamping bracket to the steering column, making sure that
the spring is properly located.
12 Fit the clamping bracket into the steering column support bracket
and insert the clamp bolt, ensuring that the flats on the bolt head are
properly located in the steering column support bracket.
13 Screw on the adjusting nut, check that the milled slot in the
adjusting bolt is aligned with the retaining pin hole, then fit the pin.
The pin should be flush with the surface of the clamp bracket and must
not be a loose fit. A new pin should be used if it is not a firm fit in the
hole.
14 The electrical connections can now be refitted and also the two
halves of the nacelle.
15 Finally, adjust the steering column as required and reconnect the
battery.

19 Steering column — dismantling, overhaul and reassembly

1 Remove the steering column as previously described. Also remove

the steering wheel and hub.
2 Remove the brackets which secure the switch clusters to the
column, followed by the direction indicator trip cam.
Fig. 11.21 The steering column upper bearing (Sec. 19)
3 Take off the circlip and washer which retain the steering mast
upper bearing and carefully slide the upper column downwards from
1 Bearing 3 Washer
the housing.
2 Circlip 4 Alignment holes
4 If the upper ball-race shows any sign of rough running or excessive
play, it can be prised out of the housing. If all is satisfactory it should
be greased with a multi-purpose grease.
5 If the lower ball-race is satisfactory it can also be regreased;
otherwise it will be necessary to remove the spire washer and tapered =
nut. A C-spanner will be required for the latter item and when replac-
ing, it will be necessary to fit a new spire washer.

Fig. 11.22 The steering column parts (Sec. 19)

1 Tapered nut 3 Spire washer

2 Shaft 4 Lower bearing
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 167

10 Carefully press the lower bearing into the housing fully and evenly,
ensuring that the upper bearing does not move.
11 Move the spire washer into contact with the lower bearing until all
the endfloat of the column is eliminated.
12 Fit the thrust washer to the lower end of the shaft and lightly stake
it in position.
13 The rest of the reassembly procedure is the reverse. of removal.

20 Intermediate shaft — removal, inspection and refitting

1 The intermediate shaft is normally renewed when it is apparent

that any play in the steering is not in the rack and pinion, or the ball-
joints, but is in the intermediate shaft universal joints. This can be
detected by disconnecting the pinion shaft universal joint, and, with an
assistant holding the steering wheel firmly, twisting the intermediate
shaft in both directions and noting any excess play or knocks.
2 To remove the intermediate shaft, remove the upper and lower
pinch bolts and nuts securing the intermediate shaft to the steering
column and steering rack pinion.
3 Ease the sliding member of the steering column upwards, clear of
the intermediate shaft, and then withdraw the intermediate shaft.
4 In order to remove the flexible coupling, it is necessary to remove
the pinch bolt securing the coupling and pull it off the shaft.
5 Inspect the shaft for fractures or corrosion, and the universal joint
and flexible couplings for excessive play or other evidence of deteriora-
tion. Fit new parts where necessary.
6 Reassembly is the reverse to removal. Remember to set the
roadwheels to the straight-ahead position, and with the steering wheel
centralised, connect the intermediate shaft universal joint to the
column and the flexible joint to the rack pinion.

21 Steering column lock and ignition switch — removal and refitt-

ing

1 Disconnect the battery.

2 Remove the ignition key from the steering column lock/ignition Fig. 11.23 The intermediate shaft (Sec. 20)
switch.
3 Remove the two halves of the nacelle after first removing the three 1 Pinch bolts 3 Pinch bolts
fixing screws. 2 Pinch bolts
4 Centre-punch the tops of the shear-head screws which secure the correct. .
steering lock to the column, then remove the screws by using a small 3. This is a job best left to your local Leyland garage, as accurate
chisel to turn them or by drilling them and using a suitable extractor alignment requires the use of special equipment. If the wheels are not
(eg, an ‘Easiout’ extractor). in alignment, tyre wear will be heavy and uneven, and the steering will
5 Disconnect the plug-in connector to the ignition switch, then be stiff and unresponsive.
remove the steering column lock.
6 Refitting the lock is a straightforward operation after aligning the
lock with the mounting holes on the column. Tighten the shear head 23 Rear wheel alignment
screws until the heads shear off.
7 The rest of the refitting operation is the reverse sequence to It is important that the rear wheel alignment is always checked
removal. every time the rear suspension has been dismantled. To do this
accurately, measuring equipment is necessary and will usually be
found at Leyland garages. This check should be entrusted to them.
22 Front wheel alignment

1. The front wheels are correctly aligned when they are turning in at 24 Front wheel camber — setting up
the front zero to 4 in (zero to 1.6 mm). It is important that this
measurement is taken on a centre line drawn horizontally and parallel Apart from checking toe-in, the only other adjustment possible is
to the ground through the centre line of the hub. The exact point the camber of the wheels. This is accomplished by removing or fitting
should be in the centre of the sidewall of the tyre and not on the wheel shims behind the front suspension bracket. However, since this opera-
rim, which could be distorted and so give inaccurate readings. tion requires specialised measuring equipment, it is virtually
2 The adjustment is effected by loosening the locknut on each tie- impossible for the home owner to do it himself with anything like the
rod balljoint and also slackening the rubber gaiter clip holding it to the degree of accuracy that is required. For that reason we recommend
tie-rod, both tie-rods being turned equally until the adjustment is that the operation be carried out by a Leyland agent.

See overleaf for ‘Fault diagnosis-suspension and steering’

168 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

25 Fault diagnosis — suspension and steering

Symptom Reason/s

Steering feels vague, car wanders and ‘floats’ at speed Tyre pressures uneven.
Dampers worn.
Steering gear balljoints badly worn.
Suspension geometry incorrect.
Steering mechanism free-play excessive.
Front suspension and rear suspension. pick-up points out of
alignment.

Stiff and heavy steering Tyre pressures too low.

No grease in steering gear. .
No grease in steering and suspension balljoints.
Front wheel toe-in incorrect.
Suspension geometry incorrect.
Steering gear incorrectly adjusted too tightly.
Steering column badly misaligned.

Wheel wobble and vibration Wheel nuts loose.

Front wheels and tyres out-of-balance.
Steering gear free play excessive.
Steering balljoints badly worn.
Hub bearings badly worn.
Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe
Contents

Bonnet—removalanaretittingy susan) im wer cee eee 24 Heater airflow control cable — removal and refitting .......... 19
Bonnet lock control cable — removal and refitting ............ 23 Heater fan motor switch — removal and refitting ............ 21
Bonnet lock — removal and refitting ..................005 eZ. Heater unit and fan motor —removal andrefitting ........... 18
Boot lid lock and striker — removal and refitting ............. 26 Heater water valve — removal andrefitting ................ 20
BOouid—iTemovaland retittinge ©. ee «1 eee eeene 25 Maintenance — bodywork and underframe ...............4. 2
Bumpers: —removallandsentungun 1.9 6 aoa nee ee oi) Maintenance — upholstery andcarpets ............-..000- 3
Door hinges (front and rear) — removal and refitting .......... 10 Maintenance PVG Covenings emacs ick euorenen dene cate eee 4
Door rattles — tracing and rectification ................... if Major subframe and body damage — general ............... 6
Facia panel — removal and refitting (including renewal of Minor body damage—epait) = S24 a ©) etc) eee 5
speedometer cable and access toinstruments) ............. 16 Rarcelishelfi=removaliandinetittingm 0c.) ornate ean nan 17
Front and rear seat — removal andrefitting ................ is Rear door — dismantling and reassembly ...........-...08- 12
Front door—dismantling andreassembly ...............-4 11 Reargoor— removalland)rerittimGuay-:sr-ne-et aeons reaemee meen tee )
Erontdoor—femoval'andretitting) 1... ea. > seas schon s 8 Striker plate — removal, refitting and adjustment ............ 13
Gearbox tunnel cover — removal and refitting .............. 28 Windscreen glass — removal and refitting ................. 14
General description

renovations are necessary. Steam cleaning is available at many

1. General description garages and is necessary for removal of the accumulation of oily grime
which sometimes is allowed to cake thick in certain areas near the
The body shell is similar to that which has been used previously on engine, gearbox and back axle. If steam cleaning facilities are not avail-
the 1300, 1500, Toledo and Dolomite, and consists of a monocoque able, there are one or two excellent grease solvents available which
shell, with a subframe to support the engine, gearbox and front can be brush applied. The dirt can then be simply hosed off.
suspension. 4 After washing paintwork, wipe off with a chamois leather to give
The car is manufactured in four-door versions only, with an unspotted clear finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will give
toughened glass fitted to all windows and a laminated windscreen. A added protection against chemical pollutants in the air. If the
heated rear window is optional on the 1500TC and is a standard paintwork sheen has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher com-
fitment on the Dolomite range. Seats are upholstered in a brushed bination to restore the brilliance of the shine. This requires a little
nylon material, the front seats being reclinable and fitted with head effort, but is usually necessary because regular washing has been
rests. There is a full width wood-veneered facia panel, a lockable glove neglected. Always check that the door and ventilator opening drain
box and a full width parcel shelf. The facia houses the speedometer, holes and pipes are completely clear so that water can be drained out.
fuel and temperature gauges, and warning lights as standard equip- Bright work should be treated the same way as_ paintwork.
ment. The 1500HL has additionally a tachometer, battery condition Windscreens and windows can be kept clear of the smeary film which
indicator and a clock. often appears, if a little ammonia is added to the water. If they are
An air-mix heater control system is fitted and has a two-speed scratched, a good rub with a proprietary metal polish will often clear
booster fan to provide additional airflow. ‘Eyeball’ outlets are fitted at them. Never use any form of wax or other body or chromium polish on
each end of the facia, these being fed by ram air only. glass.

2 Maintenance — bodywork and underframe 3 Maintenance — upholstery and carpets

1 The general condition of a car's bodywork is the one thing that sig- 1 Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum cleaned regularly
nificantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy but needs to be to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained remove them from
regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to the car for scrubbing or sponging and make quite sure they are dry
further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by a
watch on those parts of the car not immediately visible, for instance, wipe over with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be
the underframe, inside all the wheel arches and the lower part of the more apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid
engine compartment. detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of
2 The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing — pre- the material. Do not forget to keep the head lining clean in the same
ferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the car do not
solids which may have stuck to the car. It is important to flush these over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp could get into
off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. the seams and padded interior causing stains, offensive odours or even
The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way rot. If the inside of the car gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking
to remove any accumulated mud which will retain moisture and tend some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are
to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the car for this
underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud is purpose.
thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather the underframe is usually
cleaned of large accumulations automatically and this is a good time
for inspection. 4 Maintenance — PVC coverings
3. Periodically it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the car steam cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a Plain soap and water is all that is required to remove dirt from
thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and PVC. If dirt is ingrained, a soft nailbrush can be used. Under no
170

in cm in cm
*Front seat headroom A 38 96-5 *Rear set leg reach — min. -1500 M 24-5 62-2
(Uncompressed) -1500HL M 26 66-1
*Rear seat headroom Luggage boot height — max. N 16-5 41-9
(uncompressed) -1500 B 35-5 90-2 Luggage boot height — min. N 12 30-5
-1500HL B 36 91-4 Luggage boot depth — max. 6) 37 93-9
Front seat cushion depth -1500 Cc (7a 44.5 Luggage boot depth — min. O 34-5 87-6
-1500HL C 19 48-3 Luggage boot width P 52-5 133-4
Rear seat cushion depth -1500 D 18 45.7 *Front seat cushion width -1500 Qi 20-75 52-7
-1500HL D 19 48.3 -1500HL Q1 23 58.4
Front seat squab height E 19-5 49-5 *Front cushions overall -1500 Q2 44.5 113-0
Rear seat squab height F 19-75 50-2 width -1500HL Q2 46-5 118-1
Front seat cushion height G 12 30-5 *Rear cushion overall width R 51 129-5
Rear seat cushion height -1500 H 12 30-5 Width between front doors (at
-1500HL H 14 35-6 waist) Ss 49.25 125-1
*Distance between seats — Width across rear seat T 51 129-5
max. I ile 33-0 Shoulder width over front U 49.25 125-1
*Distance between seats — seat
min. I 7 17-8 Shoulder width over rear seat -1500 Vv 48.75 123-8
*Steering wheel to squab — -1500HL V 48-5 123-1
max. -1500 J 19 48-3 Wheelbase Ww 96-6 245.4
-1500HL J 19 48-3 Overall height max. unladen x 54 137-2
*Steering wheel to squab — Overall width iY. 62-5 158-8
min. 1500 J 13 33-0 Overall length Zz 162-2 412-2
-1500HL J 10 25-4 Front door entry width AA 30-75 78-1
*Steering wheel to cushion — Rear door entry width AB 17 43-2
max. -1500 K 6-5 16-5 Track at front 53-2 135-2
-1500HL K 9 22-9 Track at rear 49-9 126-7
*Front seat leg reach— max. -1500 L 39 99-1 Kerbside weight (approx.) -1500 2097 Ib 951 kg
-1500HL L 38-5 97-8 -1500HL 2108 lb 956 kg
*Front seat leg reach — min. -1500 L 6 i6} 83-8 Maximum towing weight 1680 Ib 762 kg
-1500HL L 32-5 82-6 Maximum roof rack load 110 Ib 50 kg
*Rear seat leg reach— max. -1500 M 30:5 hi -5 *Approximate
-1500HL M 32 81-3
 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe 171
ooo

circumstances use detergents, caustic soaps or spirit cleaners since brush on a power drill. If these are not available a few sheets of abra-
irreparable damage may result. sive paper will do the job just as effectively. With the paint removed
you will be able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and therefore
decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to
ee repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as
5 Minor body damage - repair most people think and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a
new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion.
The photographic sequence on pages 174 and 175 illustrates the Remove all fittings from the affected area except those which will
operations detailed in the following sub-Sections. act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork
(headlamp shells etc.,). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade,
Repair of minor scratches in the car’s bodywork remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corro-
If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the sion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order to create a slight
metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the depression for the filler paste.
scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the
remove loose paint from the scratch and to clear the surrounding surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible treat this
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a thin paint brush, con- also.
tinue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the Before filling can take place it will be necessary to block the hole
scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at in some way. This can be achieved by the use of one of the following
least two weeks to harden; then, blend it into the surrounding materials: Zinc gauze, Aluminium tape or Polyurethane foam.
paintwork by rubbing the paintwork, in the scratch area, with a Zinc gauze is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut
paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
polish. position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the sur-
An alternative to painting over the scratch is to use a paint patch. rounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of
Use the same preparation for the affected area; then simply pick a filler paste around its periphery.
patch of a suitable size to cover the scratch completely. Hold the patch Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull
against the scratch and burnish its backing paper; the patch will a piece ‘off the roll and trim it to the approximate size and shape
adhere to the paintwork, freeing itself from the backing paper at the required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape
same time. Polish the affected area to blend the patch into the sur- over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
rounding paintwork. Where the scratch has penetrated right through to insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a
the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to
technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the the metal underneath.
scratch with a penknife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the Polyurethane foam is best used where the hole is situated in a
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill section of bodywork of complex shape, backed by a small box section
the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be (eg; where the sill panel meets the rear wheel arch — most cars). The
mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste, which is an usual mixing procedure for this foam is as follows: Put equal amounts
ideal way of filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the of fluid from each of the two cans provided in the kit, into one con-
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a tainer. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken, then quickly pour this
finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly sweep it mixture into the hole, and hold a piece of cardboard over the larger
across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure apertures. Almost immediately the polyurethane will begin to expand,
that the surface of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch gushing out of any small holes left unblocked. When the foam hardens
can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section. it can be cut back to just below the level of the surrounding bodywork
with a hacksaw blade.
Repair of dents in the car’s bodywork
When deep denting of the car’s bodywork has taken place, the first
Bodywork repairs — filling and re-spraying
task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains
Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch,
its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original
rust hole, and gash repairs.
shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking
stretched on impact and cannot be reshaped fully to its original
those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or
about 4 in (3 mm) below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In
nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to
well contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board — use the
hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or
hardener sparingly (follow the maker's instructions on the packet)
plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly
otherwise the filler will set very rapidly.
against the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large
Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area;
area of the bodywork from being ‘belled-out’.
draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the
Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has a
correct contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that
double skin or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a
approximates the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste — if
different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the
you carry on too long the paste will become sticky and begin to ‘pick
metal inside the dent area — particularly in the deeper sections. Then
up’ on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at
screw long self-tapping screws into the holes just sufficiently for them
twenty minute intervals until the level of the filler is just ‘proud’ of the
to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out
surrounding bodywork.
by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be removed using a metal
The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the
plane or file. From then on, progressively finer grades of abrasive paper
damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding ‘sound’
should be used, starting with a 40 grade production paper and
bodywork. This is accomplished more easily by using a wire brush or
finishing with 400 grade ‘wet-or-dry’ paper. Always wrap the abrasive
abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as
paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block — otherwise the
effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the
surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of
preparations for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a
the filler surface the ‘wet-or-dry’ paper should be periodically rinsed in
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the filler
affected area. This will provide a really good ‘key’ for the filler paste.
at the final stage.
To complete the repair see the Section of filling and re-spraying. At this stage the ‘dent’ should be surrounded by a ring of bare
Repair of rust holes or gashes in the car's bodywork metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely ‘feathered’ edge
Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the surrounding ‘sound’ bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone.
172 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

Spray the whole repair area with a light coat of primer — this will
show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more
smooth the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a really thin paste which is
ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of
the paintwork are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for spraying. Paint spraying must be
carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. This
condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to
pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the
floor in the work area with water will ‘lay’ the dust which would
otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one
body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise
the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colour. Bodywork fittings (eg.
chrome strips, door handles etc.,) will also need to be masked off. Use
genuine masking tape and several thicknesses of newspaper for the
masking operation.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly,
then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the
thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade ‘wet-or-dry’ paper, rub down the
surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the ‘wet-and-
dry’ paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on
more paint.
Spray on the top coat again building up the thickness by using
several thin layers of paint. Start spraying in the centre of the repair Fig. 12.2 Front door securing poiats (Sec. 8)
area and then, using a circular motion, work outwards until the whole
repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is 1 Hinge plate bolts 2 Check strap
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying
on the final coat of paint. 2 Mark the outline of the hinge plate on the door frame using a soft
Allow the new paint at least 2 weeks to harden fully, then, using a pencil.
paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the 3 Remove the water curtain, then having gained access to the door
new paint into the existing paintwork. Finally apply wax polish. inner section, drill out the rivet that retains the check strap. Remove
the check strap.
4 With an assistant taking the weight of the door, remove the six
bolts and spring washers that secure the door.
6 Major subframe and body damage — general 5 Refitting the door is the reverse sequence to removal. Should it be
necessary to adjust the position of the door in the aperture, leave the
1 Major subframe and body repair work cannot be successfully locknuts slightly loose and reposition the door by trial and error. Fully
undertaken by the home mechanic. Work of this nature should be tighten the locknuts when the correct position is obtained.
entrusted to a competent body repair specialist who should have the
necessary jigs, welding and hydraulic equipment as well as skilled
panel beaters, to ensure a proper job is done.
9 Rear door — removal and refitting
2 If the damage is severe, it is vital that on completion of repair the
chassis is correctly aligned. Less severe damage may also have twisted
1 Remove the two bolts and spring washers that secure the retain-
or distorted the chassis although this may not be visibie immediately.
ing strap.
It is therefore, always best on completion of a repair to check for twist
2 Mark the position of the hinge plates on the door frame and, with
and squareness to ensure that all is correct. It is recommended that
the door supported, remove the six bolts and spring washers that
these checks are made by a Leyland main agent, who will have the
secure them.
necessary body checking jigs.
3. Refitting is the reverse to removing. Adjust the position of the
hinges as necessary to achieve an accurate fit in the door frame.
7 Door rattles — tracing and rectification

1 The most common cause of door rattles is a misaligned, loose or 10 Door hinges (front and rear) — removal and refitting
worn striker plate but other causes may be:
1 Remove the door (Sections 8 or 9).
2 To remove the front door hinges, first remove the two bolts and
a) Loose door handles, window winder handles or door hinges. washers that secure the driver's side of the parcel shelf, and the two
b) Loose, worn or misaligned door lock components. screws and washers that retain the side trim.
c) Loose or worn remote control mechanism.
3 Ease the parcel shelf slightly upwards and the side trim slightly
away from the door frame, in order to gain access to the inner hinge
or a combination of these items. fixings.
2 If the striker catch is worn as a result of door rattles renew it and
4 Mark the outline of the hinge plates, then undo the three nuts and
adjust as described later in this Chapter.
washers that secure each hinge plate to the door frame. Withdraw the
3 Should the hinges be badly worn then they must be renewed also. hinges.
5 To remove the rear door hinges it is only necessary to remove the
Cee
rear door and then release the three bolts and washers that secure
8 Front door— removal and refitting each hinge to the door.
Cee
Te
6 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Line up the hinges with the pre-
1 Refer to Section 11 and remove the trim pad. viously made marks. Adjust the hinge position as necessary.
 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe 173

Fig. 12.4 Removing front door hinges (Sec. 10)

Fig. 12.3 Rear door securing points (Sec. 9)
1 Hinge bolts beneath the trim 3 Trim retaining screws
1 Hinge plate bolts 2 Check strap bolts 2 Parcel shelf bolts

7 The next series of operations concerns the removal of the window

11. Front door — dismantling and reassembly glass so take extra care(Fig. 12.6).
8 Remove the anti-drum stiffener.
1 Unscrew and remove the interior lock plunger knob. 9 Wind the glass fully down and detach the regulator arm from the
2 To remove the window winder, depress the bezel and press out channel (photo).
the retaining pin (photo). The shank of a nail will do for this. Remove 10 Remove the single bolt and washer that secures the forward glass
the handle and bezel, then the arm rest (photo). stop to the bottom of the regulator assembly.
3. Itis now possible to remove the trim pad; prise off the sixteen clips 11 Release the glass vertical channel by removing the single bolt and
that secure it. Use a wide bladed tool without any sharp edges and two washers that secures it at the bottom bracket.
apply gentle but firm pressure. Take out the screws which retain the 12 Carefully remove the window channel rubbers by easing them out
capping, then remove the capping (photo). of the door glass apertures and the associated clips.
4 Pull out the ashtray bowl then pull out the retainer after removing 13 Taking extreme care, turn the glass sideways and lift it out through
the two securing screws. the aperture; try and avoid scratching it on the seal clips.
5 In order to remove the door lock, the water curtain must first be 14 The regulator can now be removed, by releasing the four bolts and
removed. Then release the four linkage clips and undo the four screws washers that secure it to the door frame (photo). Withdraw the
that secure the lock. Pull the lock clear (Fig. 12.5). R regulator. :
6 The remote control linkage is released by removing the three 15 The final part to be removed from the door is the ventilator. First
screws and washers that retain the handle, and detaching the clip from remove the top glass sealing rubber (Fig. 12.7).
the handle (photo). 16 Then, using an electric drill, remove the two pop rivets located in

11.2a Window handle and fixing pin 11.2b Removing the arm rest 11.3 Removing the door trim
This sequence of photographs deals with the repair of the dent In the case of a dent the first job - after removing surrounding
and scratch (above rear lamp) shown in this photo. The trim - is to hammer out the dent where access is possible. This
procedure will be similar for the repair of a hole. It should be will minimise filling. Here, the large dent having been hammered
noted that the procedures given here are simplified - more out, the damaged area is being made slightly concave
explicit instructions will be found in the text

aera a casei Soe: 2 ae e , bubs si sisi tiyryienas id Se een mis aii = = Boa Laibachah
Now all paint must be removed from the damaged area, by In the case of a hole caused by rusting, all damaged sheet-metal
rubbing with coarse abrasive paper. Alternatively, a wire brush should be cut away before proceeding to this stage. Here, the
or abrasive pad can be used in a power drill. Where the repair damaged area is being treated with rust remover and inhibitor
area meets good paintwork, the edge pf the paintwork should before being filled
be ‘feathered’, using a finer grade of abrasive paper

ii mr besa weer p 83h i Re ica

Mix the body filler according to its manufacturer's instructions. ... applying the filler. Filler should be applied with a flexible
In the case of corrosion damage, it will be necessary to block applicator, as shown, for best results: the wooden spatula being
off any large holes before filling - this can be done with zinc used for confined areas. Apply thin layers of filler at 20-minute
gauze or aluminium tape. Make sure the area is absolutely clean intervals, until the surface of the filler is slightly proud of the
before ... surrounding bodywork
 hes act " URES rs ore Lage 5 So aaat
Initial shaping can be done with a Surform plane or Dreadnought The whole repair area can now be sprayed or brush-painted
file. Then, using progressively finer grades of wet-and-dry paper, with primer. If spraying, ensure adjoining areas are protected
wrapped around a sanding block, and copious amounts of clean from over-spray. Note that at least one-inch of the surrounding
water, rub-down the filler until really smooth and flat. Again, sound paintwork should be coated with primer. Primer has a
feather the edges of adjoining paintwork ‘thick’ consistency, so will fill small imperfections

aie Mh

Again, using plenty of water, rub down the primer with a fine When the stopper has hardened, rub-down the repair area again
grade of wet-and-dry paper (400 grade is probably best) until it before applying the final coat of primer. Before rubbing-down
is really smooth and well blended into the surrounding paint- this last coat of primer, ensure the repair area is biemish-free - use
work. Any remaining imperfections can now be filled by more stopper if necessary. To ensure that the surface of the
carefully applied knifing stopper paste primer is really smooth use some finishing compound

didi . st ct aeons st cavities

The top coat can no After a period of about two-weeks, which the paint needs to
pick a dry, warm and wind-free day. Ensure surrounding areas harden fully, the surface of the repaired area can be ‘cut’ with a
are protected from over-spray. Agitate the aerosol thoroughly, mild cutting compound prior to wax polishing. When carrying
then spray the centre of the repair area, working outwards out bodywork repairs, remember that the quality of the finished
with a circular motion. Apply the paint as several thin coats. job is proportional to the time and effort expended
 2) 4A 3
Fig. 12.6 Removing window glass and winder mechanism (Sec. 11)
: F 1 Vertical channel bolt 5 Bolt
Fig. 12.5 Removing the door lock (Sec. 11) 2 Glass bottom stop 6 Vertical channel
1 Lock retaining screws 2 Linkages 3 Stiffener 7 Rubber seals
4 Regulator
arm 8 Window glass

@ -
11.9 Regulator arm and channel 11.14 Door regulator fixings

Fig. 12.7 Removing the ventilation window (Sec. 11)

1 Vertical channel bolt 6 Vertical channel!
2 Stiffener 7 Rivets (2)
3 Glass bottom stop 8 Rubber seals
4 Window glass 9 Ventilation window
5 Bolt
 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe 177
the angled frame.
17 Pull the glass clear of the vent runner and lift out the vent
assembly.
18 The parts are now ready for inspection and refitting. Should the
window winder or door lock mechanism prove to be faulty, the com-
plete unit must be renewed as individual service parts are not avail-
able.
19 Refitting the door parts is the reverse sequence to removal.
Lubricate well all moving parts. It is recommended if there are signs of
excessive internal rusting of the door panels, that the rust be removed
with a suitable solvent and the interior of the door be painted with a
rust inhibiting paint. Check that the drain holes are free of rust and dirt.

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12 Rear door — dismantling and reassembly
a
The rear door is dismantled in essentially the same manner as the
front door (Section 11) from the point of removing the various control
handles. The next step is the removal of the trim pad and door internal
mechanisms.
1 Using a wide bladed screwdriver carefully prise away the door trim
pad from the door inner panel. There are fifteen spring clips securing it
in position. Unscrew the lock plunger knob and take out the screws
which retain the capping.
2 To detach the remote control linkage, remove the spring clips by
prising them out of their recesses with a screwdriver.
3 Undo and remove the three screws securing the handle to the
door inner panel.
4 Lift away the window regulator control linkage.
5 To remove the regulator, undo the three screws securing the glass
stop. Lift away the glass stop.
6 Carefully lower the door glass. Undo and remove the four screws,
disengage the regulator arm from the door glass channel and lift the
regulator mechanism away from the door.
7 Toremove the door lock, undo and remove the four screws and lift
away the lock assembly. Fig. 12.8 Rear window components (Sec. 12)
8 To remove the door handle, undo and remove the three screws
and lift away the door handle. 1 Winder mechanism 5 Vertical channel
9 The door glass and ventilator may next be removed. Allow the 2 Screw 6 Rubber seals
glass to rest in the bottom of the door and remove the inner and outer 3 Regulator
arm 7 Rivet
weather strips. 4 Bolt
10 Undo and remove the two screws and clips which secure the anti-
drum stiffener. Lift away the stiffener.
11 Carefully pull the weatherstrip from the ventilator area of the door,
to expose the securing pop rivet.
12 Remove the pop rivet using a drill.
13 Remove the glass sealing rubber from the top of the door.
14 Undo and remove the screw located at the bottom of the quarter
light stanchion. Carefully pull the stanchion away from the glass and
remove it.
15 The door quarter light glass assembly may now be lifted out of the
door frame.

13 Striker plate — removal, refitting and adjustment

1 If it is wished to renew a worn striker plate, mark its position on

the door pillar, so a new plate can be fitted in the same position.
2 To remove the plate, simply undo and remove the two screws
which hold the plate in position. Refitting is equally straightforward.
3 To adjust the striker plate, close the door and then push it hard Fig. 12.9 Fitting a new windscreen (Sec. 14)
against its sealing rubber. The door edge furthest from the hinges if (GOlKe)
should move in approximately 3/32 in (2.4 mm).
4 Slacken the door striker plate screws and adjust the plate until the
clearance is correct. Tighten the screws and check that the door closes 2 Ensure that the windscreen wipers are in their OFF position.
properly without lifting or dropping and that on the road it does not 3 Remove the windscreen wiper arms, by prising them off with a
rattle. screwdriver blade.
4 Using a piece of tapered hardwood, break the seal around the
eee outside of the windscreen sealing rubber.
14 Windscreen glass — removal and refitting 5 An assistant will now be required, and he should be prepared to
e
(ar ee e _ catch the glass as it is released from the aperture.
1 If you are unfortunate enough to have a windscreen shatter, fitting 6 Sit in the passenger's seat and, with one foot placed on the
a new windscreen is one of the few jobs that the average owner is windscreen glass, and a soft pad interposed between the shoe and the
advised to leave to a body repair specialist. For the owner who wishes glass, carefully push the glass out. Ensure the foot is protected in case
to do the job himself, however, the following instructions should be the glass breaks and your foot goes through.
followed. 7 Carefully pull the weatherstrip and finisher strip from the glass and
178 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

inspect for signs of stretching or perishing. If evident, a new weather-

strip or finisher should be obtained.
8 Clean the glass, weatherstrip and aperture with petrol or white
spirit to remove all old sealant from the windscreen aperture edge.
9 Fit the weatherstrip to the windscreen with the joint at the bottom.
Seal the rubber to the glass with a mastic sealant such as Seelastik.
Insert the finisher at this stage as it is easier to do now than when the
weatherstrip is back in the aperture.
10 Insert a thick cord, longer than the perimeter of the glass, into the
inner channel of the rubber strip in such a manner that the ends
protrude from the bottom edge of the weatherstrip.
11 Smear some soapy water solution to the flange of the windscreen
aperture. Position the windscreen centrally on the aperture after
passing the ends of the cord through into the car.
12 The services of an assistant should be obtained again, this time to
maintain a steady pressure on the outside of the glass. The ends of the
cord may now be pulled so as to bring the lip of the weatherstrip over
the body flange.
13 Make quite sure that the lip is firmly pushed down behind the Fig. 12.10 Front seat channel fixings (Sec. 15)
facia. To obtain a good seating, it may be necessary to strike the
outside of the weatherstrip with a rubber faced hammer. 1 Front bolt 2 Rear bolt
14 Completely withdraw the cord and then seal the weatherstrip to channel.
body joint with mastic sealant. Remove surplus sealant with a cloth
moistened in petrol or white spirit. Do not allow any excess cleaning
Rear seat
1 Lift the front of the rear seat cushion up by about two inches (50
liquid to seep into the joint and destroy the seal.
mm) until it is clear of its retaining clip. Draw the cushion forwards and
lift away from inside the car.
2 To remove the rear seat squab, undo and remove the two bolts
15 Front and rear seat — removal and refitting located in the centre of the lower edge, and lift the squab from its two
hooks.
Front seat 3. Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
1 Move the front seat forwards as far as it will go and remove the
bolt from the rear of each channel.
2 Push the seat fully rearwards and remove one bolt from the front 16 Facia panel — removal and refitting (including renewal! of
of each channel. speedometer cable and access to instruments}
3. The front seat may now be lifted away complete with side chan-
nels. 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead for safety reasons.
4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. To ensure smooth 2 Pull off the rubber hoses to the ‘eyeball’ ventilators. Note: This /s
operation of the seat in its channels, apply a little grease to each not necessary if access to the clock only is required. If it is only

ih a SyG@zy=ris re
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vee

Fig. 12.11 Removing the facia panel (Sec. 16)

1 Ventilator hoses 4 Instrument panel securing 7 Top facia panel securing screws
2 Ventilation console securing Screws 8 Steering column adjustment
Screws 5 Connections to the clock bracket screws
3 Heater control knobs 6 Demister grille 9 End facia panel securing screws
and brackets
 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe 179

required to withdraw or remove the instrument panel, then the rubber reconnect the speedometer cable before finally fitting the instrument
hose on the driver's side only needs to be removed. panel, and the rubber hoses to the ‘eye-ball’ ventilators if removed.
3 Remove the lining of the glovebox by taking out the screws which
secure the check link, and the four screws which retain the lining and
striker at the top. The lining can then be prised out and the clock 17 Parcel shelf — removal and refitting
removed. Note: This is not necessary if access to the instrument panel
only is required. 1 Initially, pull off the duct tubes on the rear of each ‘eyeball’
4 Remove the four crosshead screws which retain the instrument ventilator.
panel then, working from beneath, ease the panel forward. Now slip a 2 Remove the cap nuts, nuts, washers and screws which are used to
hand in above the speedometer and pull off the cable. If it is required hold the parcel shelf to the central support tube and to the angle
to remove the inner (drive) cable it can be pulled out. If the outer cable support at each end.
is to be removed, first unscrew the collar on the right-hand side of the 3 Remove the four crosshead screws which hold the heated rear
gearbox and remove the rubber grommet on the bulkhead in the window switch.
engine compartment. The cable can now be pulled out through the 4 Remove the fasteners which hold the parcel shelf to the heater
engine compartment. (Also see Chapter 10, Sections 56 to 59). (one at each side).
5 Remove all the electrical leads from the instrument panel, noting 5 Take out the crosshead screws, washers and clips which secure
their respective colours for refitting. the parcel shelf to the reinforcement strap (two each side of the steer-
6 Remove the demister grille and the three screws beneath it which ing column).
retain the facia panel at the top. 6 Slacken the bolt at each end of the support tube, then remove
7 Unscrew the grub screws which retain the heater control knobs, each remaining bolt, spring washer and plain washer.
and puil the knobs off. 7 Now pull the support tube downwards and remove the angle
8 Remove the three bolts, spring washers and plain washers which supports at each end of the parcel shelf.
screw the steering column support/adjustment bracket to the facia. 8 The parcel shelf can now be pulled carefully away.
9 Take out the two screws, spring washers and plain washers which 9 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
retain the central ventilation outlet console.
10 Take out the two bolts, spring washers and plain washers at each
end which secure the facia panel end brackets to the sidewall, then 18 Heater unit and fan motor — removal and refitting
carefully draw the facia panel forwards.
11 Refitting is the reverse procedure to removal, but take care that all 1. Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 2.
the electrical leads are connected correctly and, where instruments 2 Remove the facia panel as described previously in this Chapter
have been removed, that they are refitted squarely. Do not forget to and remove the front carpet.

) “ease

2
Fig. 12.12 Parcel shelf securing points (Sec. 17)
1 Ventilator hose 4 Heated rear window switch Support tube bolt
2 Support tube screws screws Support tube bolt
3 Angle support screws 5 Fasteners Support tube
6 Reinforcement strap screws ~ O Parcel shelf bracket screws
COON
180 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

3 Place a container of approximately 1 pint (1 litre) capacity beneath 12 Slacken the two clips and ease off the moulded plastic air hose.
the heater, then take off the hoses taking care to catch any coolant 13 Undo the three bolts securing the blower motor to the bulkhead
which flows out. and lift away the blower assembly. Note that the earth cable is con-
4 Remove the demister duct from the heater. nected to the lower of the two mounting bolts.
5 Disconnect the hooked end of the air vent control cable from the 14 In both cases, refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Refer to
central lever. Chapter 2, and refill the cooling system. A mastic sealant sucn as
6 Disconnect the two electrical leads from the central lever, noting Seelastik should be used to sea! the fan motor to the bulkhead. Before
their respective colours to prevent mix-up when refitting. refitting the control cable, ensure the central control lever is in the OFF
7 Remove the nuts, bolts and washers which secure the heater unit position and the fan motor flap lever is positioned fully to the left.
to the air distribution duct (one bolt each side).
8 Remove the four bolts, washers and spring washers which secure
the heater unit to the bulkhead. 19 Heater airflow control cable — removal and refitting
9 The heater unit can now be removed but take care not to damage
the matrix. Have a supply of rags handy, or cover the floor with news- 1 Slacken the trunnion on the blower flap lever and detach the
papers, to absorb any spillage of coolant as the unit is withdrawn. cable.
10 If it is necessary to remove the heater blower motor, note the 2 Detach the inner cable from the fan switch and pull the cable
cable connections to the motor and disconnect the cables from their assembly clear.
connectors. Then remove the screen washer bottle. 3. To refit, reverse the removal instructions, ensuring that the fan
11. Slacken the trunnion bolt and detach the air control cable from the switch is in the OFF position and the fan motor flap lever is positioned
air valve. fully to the left.

20 Heater water valve — removal and refitting

1 Detach the control rod from the locating hole in the end of the
valve stem.
2 Slacken the screw that secures the valve retainer on the shoulder
of the valve; withdraw the retainer and valve.
3 Refit in the reverse order to removal, ensuring that the contro! rod
is positioned to allow free movement of the valve. ,

Fig. 12.13 Heater unit disconnection points (Sec. 18)

21 Heater fan motor switch — removal and refitting
1 Bulkhead gaskets 5 Control cable
2 Hose clips 6 Motor leads
1 Remove the three grub screws securing the control knobs and pull
off the knobs.
3 Rear gasket 7 Bottom bracket bolts
4 Switch knob 8 Rear bracket bolts
2 Next, remove the escutcheon by releasing the two boits, nuts and
washers that secure it to the facia.

Fig. 12.14 Fan motor, flap valve and ducting hose (Sec. 18) Fig. 12.15 Heater water valve (Sec. 20)

71 Windscreen washer bottle 3 Flap valve lever and trunnion bolt 7 Control rod 3 Valve components
2 Motor leads 4 Hose and clips 2 Retainer and screw
 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe 181

23 Bonnet lock control cable — removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and support on its stay.

2 Slacken the nut and detach the release cable from the trunnion
located at the lock lever. Loosen the pinch bolt.
3 Detach the release cable and its clip from the bonnet lock.
4 Remove the screw that secures each combined rubber buffer and
cable clip to the wing valance. Lift away the two rubber clips.
5 Undo and remove the nut and shakeproof washer that secures the
outer cable to the body side bracket mounted below the facia panel.
6 Carefully withdraw the control cable assembly through the body
grommet.
7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. It is however,
necessary to adjust the inner cable. Push the release knob in fully and
make sure that the lock release lever is not pre-loaded by the release
cable.
8 There must be a minimum movement of 0.5 in (12.7 mm) prior to
the release of the bonnet. To adjust, slacken the cable trunnion nut and
re-adjust the cable so that the bonnet is released within 0.5 to 2.0 in
(30 to 50 mm) of cable movement.
Fig. 12.16 Removing fan motor switch (Sec. 21) Note: /f at any time the release cable breaks when the bonnet is
7 Control knobs and clips 4 Motor leads
closed, careful manipulation of a screwdriver through the air intake
grille in the bonnet lid will release the catch.
2 Escutcheon and locating bolts 5 Switch screws
3 Control cable

3 Unhook the control cable from the switch and disconnect the two 24 Bonnet — removal and refitting
leads: it is best to note the connection points of the leads before
removal, rather than have confusion when refitting. 1 Open the bonnet and hold open using the bonnet stay. To act as a
4 Remove the two screws that secure the switch and lift it out of the datum for refitting, mark the position of the hinges using a soft pencil.
panel. 2 If wished, the bonnet stay can be removed at this stage by taking
5 Refit in the reverse order to removal. out the split pin, washers and clevis pin (photo). Alternatively, remove
the hinge bolts first as described in paragraph 3.
3 With the help of an assistant to take the weight of the bonnet,
22 Bonnet lock — removal and refitting remove the four bolts, spring washers and plain washers, then the two
location plates, which secure the hinges (photo).
1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay. 4 Lift the bonnet away from the car. If the stay has not yet been
2 Slacken the nut and detach the release cable from the trunnion removed, ease the bonnet first towards the rear of the engine compart-
located at the lock lever, loosen the pinch bolt. ment a little and withdraw the stay from the large opening in the stay
3. Detach the release cable and its clip from the bonnet lock (photo). support. In this way the stay need not be removed from the bonnet.
4 Undo and remove the three bolts, plain and spring washers secur- 5 Refitting the bonnet is the reverse of removal for whichever
ing the bonnet lock. Lift away the bonnet lock. method was adopted.
5 Undo and remove the two nuts, plain and shakeproof washers that
secure the catch assembly to the underside of the bonnet.
6 Detach the return spring and catch assembly. 25 Boot lid — removal and refitting
7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
8 Carefully lower the bonnet and check the alignment of the catch 1 It is recommended that a blanket be placed under the top side of
with the lock hole. If misaligned, slacken the fixing bolts and move the the lid and spread over the wing panels to act as a precaution against
assembly slightly. Retighten the fixing bolts. scratching of the paintwork during removal or refitting.
9 Close the bonnet and check its alignment with the body wing 2 For safety reasons disconnect the battery earth terminal. Also
panels. If necessary reposition the catch assembly. detach the wires leading to the lid from the top left-hand corner of the
10 The bonnet must contact the rubber stops. To adjust the position ‘luggage compartment.
of the stops, remove the screws and place packing beneath the stops 3 With the help of an assistant to take the weight of the boot lid,
until the bonnet will close sufficiently to just compress the stops, thus remove the four securing bolts.
eliminating any rattle. 4 Should it be necessary to remove the hinges, disconnect the lead
11. Lubricate all moving parts and finally check the bonnet and release from the boot light switch and pull it clear of the hinge.
operation. 5 Remove the single nut, bolt and washers from the inside of the

a s re

24.2 Bonnet stay clevis 24.3 Removing the bonnet hinge and
location plate
182 Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe

¥
\

26.1 Bonnet latch fixings 27.8 Rear bumper fixings

left-hand hinge.
rider support.
6 Finally remove the four nuts and washers and lift away the hinge
and torsion bar assemblies. 3 Whilst supporting the bumper, remove the two screws at each
fixing bracket then lift the bumper and brackets clear of the car.
7 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
4 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Rear bumper
5 Disconnect the two number plate lamp leads.
26 Boot lid lock striker — removal and refitting 6 Remove the side trim pads in the luggage boot. There are two
screws and one clip on each pad.
Lock 7 Remove the bolt, spring washer and plain washer which secure
1 Open the boot lid and remove the three bolts, spring washers and each end of the bumper.
plain washers then lift off the latch (photo). 8 Remove the four bolts, spring washers and plain washers which
2 Rotate the locking ring through 90°. Withdraw the lock assembly secure the bumper to the fixing brackets (photo).
and sealing ring, taking care not to damage the later. 9 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
3. Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Lock striker
4 Remove the eleven crosshead screws, which retain the trim pad. 28 Gearbox tunnel cover — removal and refitting
5 Remove the three bolts, spring washers and plain washers, then
lift off the striker. ; 1 Remove the front seats as described in Section 15 of this Chapter.
6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal but before finally 2 Remove the carpeting from the gearbox tunnel cover.
tightening the striker check that the boot lid is correctly aligned when 3 Take out the two bolts at each end of the parcel shelf support tube
closed. and the two crosshead screws which secure the front edge.
4 Pull off the hand grip from the handbrake lever.
5 Take out the fifteen bolts and four nuts which secure the tunnel to
the floor.
27 Bumpers — removal and refitting 6 Break the seal between the tunnel cover and the floor, then
carefully lift out the tunnel over the gear lever.
Front bumper 7 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure but apply a film of
1 Remove the bolt, spring washer and plain washer at each end of mastic sealant such as Seelastik to the mating surfaces of the tunnel
the bumper. and floor. Also ensure that the seal retainers are correctly located in
2 Remove the bolt, spring washer and plain washer on each under- the cover.
Metric conversion tables
Millimetres to Inches to
Inches Millimetres
Inches Decimals Millimetres mm Inches Inches mm
1/64 0.015625 0.3969 0.01 0.00039 0.001 0.0254
1/32 0.03125 0.7937 0.02 0.00079 0.002 0.0508
3/64 0.046875 1.1906 0.03 0.00118 0.003 0.0762
1/16 0.0625 1.5875 0.04 0.00157 0.004 0.1016
5/64 0.078125 1.9844 0.05 0.00197 0.005 0.1270
3/32 0.09375 2.3812 0.06 0.00236 0.006 0.1524
7/64 0.109375 2.7781 0.07 0.00276 0.007 0.1778
1/8 0.125 3.1750 0.08 0.00315 0.008 0.2032
9/64 0.140625 3.5719 0.09 0.00354 0.009 0.2286
5/32 0.15625 . 3.9687 0.1 0.00394 0.01 0.254
11/64 0.171875 4.3656 0.2 0.00787 0.02 0.508
3/16 0.1875 4.7625 0.3 0.01181 0.03 0.762
13/64 0.203125 5.1594 0.4 0.01575 0.04 1.016
7/32 0.21875 5.5562 0.5 0.01969 0.05 1.270
15/64 0.234375 5.9531 0.6 0.02362 0.06 1.524
1/4 0.25 6.3500 0.7 0.02756 0.07 1.778
17/64 0.265625 6.7469 0.8 0.03150 0.08 2.032
9/32 0.28125 7.1437 0.9 0.03543 0.09 2.286
19/64 0.296875 7.5406 1 0.03937 0.1 2.54
5/16 0.3125 7.9375 2 0.07874 0.2 5.08
21/64 0.328125 8.3344 3 0.11811 0.3 7.62
11/32 0.34375 8.7312 4 0.15748 0.4 10.16
23/64 0.359375 9.1281 5 0.19685 0.5 12.70
3/8 0.375 9.5250 6 0.23622 0.6 15.24
25/64 0.390625 9.9219 7 0.27559 0.7 U7ie7ks)
13/32 0.40625 10.3187 8 0.31496 0.8 20.32
27/64 0.421875 10.7156 9 0.35433 0.9 22.86
7/16 0.4375 11.1125 10 0.39370 1 25.4
29/64 0.453125 11.5094 11 0.43307 2 50.8
15/32 0.46875 11.9062 12 0.47244 3 76.2
31/64 0.484375 12.3031 13 0.51181 4 101.6
1/2 0.5 12.7000 14 0.55118 5 127.0
33/64 0.515625 13.0969 15 0.59055 6 152.4
17/32 0.53125 13.4937 16 0.62992 7 177.8
35/64 0.546875 13.8906 U?/ 0.66929 8 203.2
9/16 0.5625 14.2875 18 0.70866 9 228.6
37/64 0.578125 14.6844 19 0.74803 10 254.0
19/32 0.59375 15.0812 20 0.78740 11 279.4
39/64 0.609375 15.4781 21 0.82677 12 304.8
5/8 0.625 15.8750 22 0.86614 13 330.2
41/64 0.640625 16.2719 23 0.90551 14 355.6
21/32 0.65625 16.6687 24 0.94488 15 381.0
43/64 0.671875 17.0656 25 0.98425 16 406.4
11/16 0.6875 17.4625 26 1.02362 17 431.8
45/64 0.703125 17.8594 27 1.06299 18 457.2
23/32 0.71875 18.2562 28 1.10236 19 482.6
47/64 0.734375 18.6531 29 1.14173 20 508.0
3/4 0.75 19.0500 30 1.18110 21 533.4
49/64 0.765625 19.4469 31 1.22047 22 558.8
25/32 0.78125 19.8437 32) 1.25984 23 584.2
51/64 0.796875 20.2406 64} 1.29921 24 609.6
13/16 0.8125 20.6375 34 1.33858 25 635.0
53/64 0.828125 21.0344 35 1.37795 26 660.4
27/32 0.84375 21.4312 36 1.41732 27 685.8
55/64 0.859375 21.8281 37 1.4567 28 iallez
7/8 0.875 22.2250 38 1.4961 29 736.6
57/64 0.890625 22.6219 39 1.5354 30 762.0
29/32 0.90625 23.0187 40 1.5748 31 787.4
59/64 0.921875 23.4156 41 1.6142 32 812.8
15/16 0.9375 23.8125 42 1.6535 33 838.2
61/64 0.953125 24.2094 43 1.6929 34 863.6
31/32 0.96875 24.6062 44 1.7323 35 889.0
63/64 0.984375 25.0031 45 1.7717 36 914.4
184 Metric Conversion Tables

i Imperial gallon = 8 Imp pints = 1.16 US gallons = 277.42 cu in = 4.5459 litres

1 US gallon = 4 US quarts = 0.862 Imp gallon = 231 cu in = 3.785 litres

1 Litre = 0.2199 Imp gallon = 0.2642 US gallon = 61.0253 cu in = 1000 cc

Miles to Kilometres Kilometres to Miles

1 1.61 1 0.62
2 $.22 2 1.24
3 4.83 3 1.86
4 6.44 4 2.49
5 8.05 5 3.11 :
6 9.66 6 3.73
7 11.27 7 4.35
8 12.88 8 4.97
9 14.48 9 5.59
10 16.09 10 6.21
20 32.19 20 12.43
30 48.28 30 18.64
40 64.37 40 24.85
50 80.47 50 31.07
60 96.56 60 37.28
70 112.65 70 43.50
80 128.75 80 49.71
90 144.84 90 55.92
100 160.93 100 62.14
Ib fft to Kg fm Kg fmto Ib f ft Ib f/in2 :Kg f/cm2 Kg f/cm2: Ib f/in2

1 0.138 1 7.233 1 0.07 1 14.22

2 0.276 2 14.466 2 0.14 2 28.50
3 0.414 3 21.699 3 0.21 3 42.67
4 0.553 4 28.932 4 0.28 4 56.89
5 0.691 5 36.165 5 0.35 5 7142
6 0.829 6 43.398 6 0.42 6 85.34
7 0.967 7 50.631 7 0.49 7 99.56
8 1.106 8 57.864 8 0.56 8 113.79
9 1.244 9 65.097 9 0.63 Ke) 128.00
10 1.382 10 72.330 10 0.70 10 142.23
20 2.765 20 144.660 20 1.41 20 284.47
30 4.147 30 216.990 30 2.11 30 426.70
index

removal — 23
Air cleaner — 43 renovation — 26
Alternator — 130 Capacities
Antifreeze — 39 general — 5
Automatic transmission Carburettors
description — 99 dismantling — 44
downshift cable — 101, 104 inspection — 44
extension rear oil seal — 102 reassembly — 46
fault diagnosis — 107 removal and refitting — 43
front brake band— 101 tamperproof — 47
front servo — 101 tuning — 46
governor — 102 Choke cable — 49
hand lever turret — 104 = Clutch
rear brake band— 101 bleeding — 62
rear extension — 102 description — 62
rear servo — 101 fault diagnosis — 67
removal and refitting — 100 master cylinder — 64
restrictor valve and bypass pipe — 103 pedal — 66
road test — 105 release mechanism — 66
selector rod — 103 removal and refitting — 18
specifications — 69 slave cylinder dismantling and reassembly — 63
stall test — 105 slave cylinder renewal and refitting — 62
starter inhibitor/reverse lamp switch — 103 specifications — 62
torque wrench settings — 70 torque wrench settings — 22
transmission sump — 103 Coil — 60
Condenser
removal and refitting — 56
Connecting rods
Battery —- 129 reassembly — 28
Big-end bearings reassembly to crankshaft — 28
renewal — 23 removal — 23
renovation — 25 Contact breaker points
Bodywork adjustment — 56
bonnet — 181 removal and refitting — 55
boot lid— 181 Cooling system
bumpers — 182 description — 38
description — 169 draining — 38
dimensions — 170 fault diagnosis — 42
facia panel — 178 filling — 38
gearbox tunnel cover — 182 flushing — 40
maintenance — 169 specifications — 38
major damage repair — 172 torque wrench settings — 38
minor damage repair — 171 Crankcase ventilatign system — 24
parcel shelf — 179 Crankshaft
Braking system housing refitting — 33
bleeding — 199 rear seal refitting — 33
disc brakes description — 117 refitting — 28
drum brakes description — 117 removal — 24
fault diagnosis — 127 renovation — 24
front brake disc shields — 124 Cylinder bores
front brake discs — 124 renovation — 25
front brake pad — 123 Cylinder head
front disc brake calipers — 124, 125 decarbonisation — 27
handbrake adjustment — 123 refitting — 32
handbrake cable — 123 removal (engine in car) — 22
handbrake lever assembly — 122 removal (engine on bench) — 21
hydraulic pipes — 119
master cylinder— 119 D
pedal — 121 Decarbonisation — 27
rear brake backplates — 127 Dimensions
rear brake shoes — 125 general — 5
rear brake wheel cylinders — 126 Distributor
servo non-return valve and filter — 121 dismantling and reassembly— 54
servo unit description — 120 drive refitting — 23
servo unit removal and refitting — 120 drive removal — 23
specifications — 117 lubrication — 58
stoplight switch — 121 refitting — 53
torque wrench settings — 117 removal — 53
Bumpers — 182 Doors
front, dismantling and reassembly — 173
front, removal and refitting — 172
Camshaft hinges — 172
refitting — 31 rattles —172
186 Index
ET

rear, dismantling and reassembly — 177 G

rear, removal and refitting — 172 Gearbox
striker plate — 177 specifications — 68
Gearbox (single rail)
description — 84
Electrical system dismantling — 85
accessories fitment — 138 fault diagnosis — 84
cigarette lighter — 142 input shaft — 87
description — 129 mainshaft — 87
fault diagnosis — 144 reassembly — 89
flasher unit — 137 removal and refitting — 85
fusebox 142 renovation — 85
headlamps— 138 Gearbox tunnel cover — 182
instruments —142 Gearbox (three rail)
lights — 138, 189, 140 cover extension — 80
night dimming relay— 137 description — 70
specifications — 128 dismantling — 70
speedometer — 142 fault diagnosis — 84
speedometer cable — 142, 143 input shaft — 76
switches— 140, 141 mainshaft — 73
voltage stabilizer — 142 rear extension — 84
wiring diagrams — 145 — 151 rear oil seal — 84
Engine reassembly — 78
ancillary components removal — 21 removal and refitting — 70
assembly final — 35 renovation — 76
dismantling — 20 top cover — 82
endplate refitting — 31 torque wrench settings — 70
endplate removal — 23 Gudgeon pin
fails to start — 61 removal — 23
fault diagnosis — 37
misfires — 61 H
operations necessitating engine removal — 19 Headlamps — 138
Operations with engine in place — 19 Heater — 179, 180
refitting — 36 Horns — 137
reassembly general — 27 Hubs
removal — 19 front bearings — 133, 154
removal method — 19 rear bearings — 160
renovation — 24
specifications — 15 |
start-up after overhaul — 36
Ignition system
torque wrench settings — 17
coil and ballast resistor — 60
Exhaust system — 15
description — 33
fault diagnosis — 61
F specifications — 53
Fan belt — 42 timing adjustment — 57
Fan blades — 40
Fault diagnosis
automatic transmission — 107 ’ J
braking system — 127 Jacking — 11
clutch — 67
cooling system — 42 L
electrical system — 144 Lights — 138, 139, 140
engine — 37 Lubricants recommended — 12
fuel system — 52 Lubrication chart — 12
gearbox — 84 Lubrication system — 24
ignition system — 61
overdrive — 99 M
propeller shaft — 110 Main bearings
rear axle— 116 removal — 24
steering — 168 renovation — 25
suspension — 168 Maintenance routine — 9
Flywheel
refitting — 33 O
removal — 23 Oil filter — removal and refitting — 24
renovation — 27 Oil pressure relief valve — removal and refitting — 24
Flywheel starter ring Oil pump
renovation — 26 dismantling — 24
Fuel pump refitting — 33
filter cleaning — 50 removal — 24
removal and refitting — 50 renovation — 26
testing — 50 Overdrive
Fuel system description — 92
description — 43 fault diagnosis — 99
fault diagnosis — 52 hydraulic pump non-return valve — 94
specifications — 43 hydraulic system — 92
Fuel tank — 50 oil pressure checks — 94
 Index 187
EE
overhaul — 95 removal — 23
pressure filter — 95 renovation — 27
principle of operation — 92 Suspension
relief valve and dashpot — 94 description — 153
removal and refitting — 95 fault diagnosis — 168
solenoid control valve — 94 front anti-roll bar — 158
specifications — 69 front lower wishbone arm and radius rod — 156
torque wrench settings — 70 front spring and damper — 154
front upper wishbone arms — 156
radius rod — 161
Piston rings rear damper— 161
refitting — 28 rear suspension arm — 161
removal — 23 specifications — 152
renovation — 25 torque wrench settings — 153
Pistons vertical link lower balljoint — 159
reassembly — 28 Switches — 140, 141
refitting — 28
removal — 23 Yr
renovation — 25 Tappets
Propelier shaft reassembly — 31
description — 108 renovation — 26
fault diagnosis — 110 Thermostat — 40
removal and refitting — 108 Throttle
torque wrench settings — 108 cable — 48
type — 108 linkage — 49
universal joints — 109 pedal —.48
Timing chain
removal — 22
Radiator renovation — 26
header tank — 39 tensioner refitting — 24, 31
removal and refitting — 39 tensioner removal — 24
Radio fitting — 138 tensioner renovation — 26
Rear axle Timing cover
bearings— 111 refitting — 31
description — 111 removal — 22
differential assembly — 113 Timing gears
fault diagnosis — 116 refitting — 31
halfshafts — 111 removal — 22
oilseals— 111 renovation — 26
pinion and refitting — 115 Tools — 13
removal and refitting — 115 Towing — 11
specifications — 111 Tyre pressures — 152
torque wrench settings — 111 Tyres — 152
Rocker assembly
dismantling — 22
reassembly — 31 Universal joints — 109
renovation — 26
Routine maintenance — 9
Valve guides
removal — 22
Seats — 178 renovation — 27
Spare parts buying — 8 Valves
Spark plugs — 60 adjustment — 33
Speedometer — 142 reassembly — 31
Starter motor removal — 22
description — 131 renovation — 26
overhaul — 131 Vehicle identification numbers — 8
removal and refitting — 131
roller clutch — 133 WwW
testing on engine — 133 Water pump — 41
Steering Weights, general — 5
column — 165, 166 Wheels — 152
column lock and ignition switch — 167 Windscreen glass — 177
description — 153 Windscreen washers
fault diagnosis — 168 dismantling and reassembly — 136
front wheel alignment — 167 general — 136
front wheel camber — 167 jets -— 137
intermediate shaft — 167 pump and reservoir — 137
outer balljoint assembly — 163 Windscreen wipers
rack and pinion gear — 162 arms — 134
rear wheel alignment — 167 blades — 134
specifications — 152 description — 134
torque wrench settings — 153 fault finding — 136
wheel — 162 linkage — 135
Sump motor — 134
refilling — 35 Wiring diagrams — 145 — 151
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 Printed by
Haynes Publishing Group
Sparkford Yeovil Somerset
England
 Models covered
Triumph 1500TC Saloon. 1493 cc. 1973 to 1976
Triumph Dolomite 1500 & 1500HL Saloon. 1493 cc. 1976 to 1977
Covers overdrive, manual and automatic transmission versions of above

P w

Haynes Owners Workshop Manuals are written with the home mechanic in mind who does not have the
luxury of a well equipped workshop or factory service tools. Each manual covers a specific make and
model. A second-hand example is purchased and is used as the basis for the manual. Before overhaul
begins the author undertakes considerable research into the model range and modification history, talking
with the manufacturers, dealers, repair specialists and owners.
Each manual presents the dismantling, overhaul and reassembly in a logical sequence describing the
component parts in the minutest: detail. Also included are comprehensive specifications and extensive
fault finding charts together with details of routine maintenance.

‘These are really worthwhile manuals which can save you a lotof money.’ Autocar
-175
‘Haynes manuals are outstanding for giving the learner mechanic an easy to follow guide to doing |
of repair or maintenance work on hisorhercar. Road & Track
HIV7 te<< xe}-)

. written for the intelligent owner who wants to understand the construction and working « , and
who is not afraid to pick up a spanner and dismantle it... Safer Motoring
KQ-32
AAT
‘These authentic manuals are actually written from practical experience .. .’ Car Mechanics

- ‘Excellent value for money, beginners and experts should find it equally useful, overall a mine of i:
Motor

‘It is thus opportune that a simply splendid Owners Workshop Manual has just come out. Every imaginable job is
illustrated . . .. Autosport

‘For the home mechanic Haynes DIY workshop manuals show clearly step-by-step servicing operations in
pictures. Sunday Mirror

plus some very useful photographically illusuated step-by-step assembly and reassembly procedures.’
Motor

‘Another book well worth buying.’ Hot Car

‘All instructions given on a step-by-step basis with a minimum of cross-references and vast number of illustra-
tions roughly one per step. Great use of photographs but well taken and clearly printed.’ Motor

. written particularly for the do-it-yourself chap with the object and aim of saving money.’ Cars and Car
Conversions

. covers absolutely everything you could wish to know.’ Popular Motoring

‘Every conceivable aspect is covered down to the minutest accessory. . . excellent value for money, and is an
invaluable asset.’ Safer Motoring

ISBN 0 85696 369 0 2292/369