Rear Wheel

Drive Models

1974 thru 1987 □ V6 and V8

Regal □ Century □ Wagons

Owners Workshop Manual

 «nuo«LUUr^L!U LIHKAKT

Buick Regal 343 7379

and Century
Owners
Workshop
Manual
by Peter D du Pre
and John H Haynes
Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:
Regal: Regal, Regal Limited, Regal Sport Coupe
Century: Century, Century Custom, Century Limited, Century Sport Coupe,
Century Special, Century Wagon

196, 231 <including Turbo), 252, 256, 301, 305, 307, 350, 403 and 455 cu in engines

ISBN 1 85010 386 0

© Haynes Publishing Group 1982, 1984, 1987

All riqhts reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission
in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England (4N2 - 627)

Haynes Publishing Group

Sparkford Nr Yeovil
Somerset BA22 7JJ England
Library of Congress

Haynes Publications, Inc Catalog card number

861 Lawrence Drive
87-80839
Newbury Park
California 91320 USA
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to the Buick Motor Division of the General Motors showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair
Corporation for their assistance with technical information and the photographs used in this manual were supplied by Holt Lloyd Limited,
supply of certain illustrations. distributors of "Turtle Wax", "Dupli-Color Holts", and other Holts
The Champion Spark Plug Company supplied the illustrations products.

About this manual

Its aim It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best from your car. detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms
It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in
be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the
information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical Chapter - Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6.
course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related
is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate.
simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as
and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own
a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must individual contents list.
charge to cover its labour and overheads. References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards.
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning
the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise.
so that even a novice can do the work. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications
Its arrangement and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into
The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters, each covering a our manuals at the earliest opportunity.
logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into While every care is taken to ensure that the information in this
Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or
paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
the Section they are in, eg 5.1. 5.2 etc. omissions, from the information given.

Introduction to the Buick Regal and Century

The seven year period that this manual covers marks a unique greater economy, and improved styling are all hallmarks of the new
period of development in the history of the American automobile, Buick.
particularly for Buick. 1974 marked the last year that truly large From a mechanical point of view, the cars remain basically
displacement engines were offered in Buick’s "A" body automobiles unchanged in design since 1974. Suspension, brakes and drivetrains
(The Regal and Century lines). The great fuel shortage of early 1974 are virtually the same, except for very minor improvements. Engines
brought home the need for smaller and more efficient cars. Because of are still available in V6 and V8 configurations, though the large 455
this, Federal regulations, and consumer leanings towards smaller CID V8 is no longer available. The big change for Buick are the High
autos, Buick has had to totally rethink just what a mid-size car is all Energy Ignition (electronic) introduced in 1975 and a turbocharger for
about. the 231 V6, introduced in 1978. Another change for Buick is the
Beginning in 1976, Buick began down-sizing its entire line of introduction of other General Motors engines into its line up. Since
automobiles and today the Century wagon is 23.6 inches shorter, 1977, engines installed in Buicks have been manufactured by Buick,
overall, than it was in 1974. The Regal has shrunk, also, and is 12.4 Oldsmobile, Pontiac and Chevrolet. Detailed descriptions of these
inches shorter than it was in the mid-seventies. Wheelbase is also less innovations, and others, are covered in detail in the appropriate
than it used to be, having shrunk an average of 6.3 inches since 1 974. sections of this manual. Stripdown procedures are basically the same
In spite of producing smaller cars, ride and comfort have not for all years and the Haynes step-by-step photo coverage is applicable
suffered as was first supposed, in fact they have been improved. to all engine models. Differences between engine models are dis¬
Today's Buicks actually have more interior room than many earlier cussed in detail.
models. More room, less overall length and width, better comfort,
Contents Page

Acknowledgements 2

About this manual 2

Introduction to the Buick Regal and Century 2

General dimensions and capacities 14

Spare parts and vehicle identification numbers 16

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 18

Jacking and towing 23

Automotive chemicals and lubricants 24

Recommended lubricants 25

Troubleshooting 26

Safety first! 33

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 34

Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 58

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 91

Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger 103

Chapter 3 Cooling system 114

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 123

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 163

Chapter 6 Emissions systems 178

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission 192

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission 206

Chapter 8 Driveline 213

226
Chapter 9 Braking system

Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system 241

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 263

285
Chapter 12 Bodywork

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on 1981 and later models 296

332
Conversion factors
333
Index
Sausalito Public Library
Sausalifo, California 94965
 4

V
1974 Buick Century 350 Landau Coupe
1975 Buick Century Special
 6

1976 Buick Century Custom Coupe

1977 Buick Century Sedan
7
 8

1978 Buick Century Special Coupe

1980 Buick Century Limited Sedan
 10

1974 Buick Regal 4-door Sedan

 r

1977 Buick Regal Coupe

11
 12

1979 Buick Regal Limited Coupe

1980 Buick Regal Sport Coupe
13
General dimensions and capacities
Dimensions (in inches) Wheelbase Length Height Width
1974
Century 2-door coupes. . 112.0 209.5 55.0 79.0
Regal 2-door formal sedan. . 112.0 212.0 55.0 79.0
Century 4-door sedans. . 116.0 213.5 55.0 79.0
Regal 2-door sedan. . 116.0 216.0 55.0 79.0
Century 4-door wagons. . 116.0 218.2 55.9 79.0
1975
Century 2-door coupes. . 112.0 209.5 53.5 79.0
Regal 2-door coupe/sedan. . 112.0 212.0 53.3 79.0
Century 4-door sedan. . 116.0 213.5 54.1 79.0
Regal 4-door sedan. . 116.0 216.0 54.1 79.0
Century 4-door wagons.. 116.0 218.2 55.3 79.0
1976
Century 2-door coupe. 209.7 52.8 79.0
Century Custom/Special. . 112.0 209.7 52.6 79.0
Regal 2-door coupe.. 112.0 213.5 53.6 79.0
All 4-door sedans.. 116.0 213.5 53.6 79.0
All 4-door wagons. 218.2 55.3 79.0
1977
All 2-door coupes. 209.8 52.7 76.5
All 4-door sedans. 213.6 53.6 79.0
All 4-door wagons. . 116.0 218.3 55.3 79.0
1978 through 80
Century Special coupe. . 108.1 195.6 53.3 72.2
Regal coupe. 199.6 53.4 72.2
Century Special sedan. . 108.1 195.6 54.2 72.2
Century Special wagon. . 108.1 194.6 54.5 72.2

Capacities
Cooling system us qts
1974
350 CID V8
W/heater. 1 7,3
W/air conditioning or HOC (Heavy Duty Cooling) 20"
fan shroud. 1 7.6
W/air conditioning or HDC 22" fan shroud. 17.2
455 CID V8
W/heater. 1 9.4
W/air conditioning and/or HDC. 19 9
1975
231 CID V6
Heater only. 15.35
HDC.. 15.32
350 CID V8
Heater only. 1 6.88
HDC. 17.16
1976
231 CID V6
Heater only. 15.35
HDC. 15.32
350 CID V8
Heater only. 1 6.88
HDC. 17.16
1977
231 CID V6
Manual transmission
W/heater and/or HDC. 12.9
W/air conditioning and/or HDC. 12.8
 General dimensions and capacities 15

Automatic transmission
W/heater or HDC. 12.8
W/air conditioning and/or HDC. 12.7
305 and 350 CID V8 (VIN codes U and L)
W/heater. 14.8
W/air conditioning. 15.4
W/H DC. 16.9
350 CID V8 (VIN code H and J)
W/heater. 14.3
W/air conditioning. 14.9
W/H DC. 16.4
350 CID V8 (VIN code R)
W/heater. 15.3
W/air conditioning. 15.9
W/H DC. 17.4
403 CID V8 (VIN code K)
W/heater. 16.4
W/air conditioning. 17.0
W/H DC. 18.5
1978
196 and 231 CID V6
Manual transmission
W/heater. 13.1
W/air conditioning. 13.2
Automatic transmission
W/heater amd HDC. 13.0
W/air conditioning and HDC. 13.1
305 CID V8
W/heater. 19.2
W/air conditioning. 18.9
W/HDC. 19.6
350 CID V8
W/heater. 19.2
W/air conditioner. 18.9
W/H DC. 19.6
1979 and 1980
196 and 231 CID V6
Manual transmission. 13.4
Automatic transmission. 13.3
301 CID V8 (VIN code Y)
W/heater. 20.3
W/HDC. 20.8
301 CID V8 (VIN code W)
W/heater. 20.3
W/air conditioning. 21.0
20.8
W/H DC.
305 CID V8 (VIN code H)
17.6
W/heater.
18.1
W/H DC.
350 CID V8
17.6
W/heater.
18.1
W/air conditioning.
18.1
W/H DC.
US gallons
Fuel tank capacity (approx)
22
1 974 through 1 977 .
18.1
1978 through 1 980.
Rear axle 4-J- pints
1974 through 1980 (all).
Engine oil 4 qts
Refill (all).
With new filter
4 qts
1979 amd 1980 Pontiac 265/301 engines
5 qts
All others.
Spare parts and vehicle identification numbers
Spare parts Body identification plate
Spare parts are available from many sources and generally fall into Located on the upper surface of the shroud, the body identification
one of two categories - authorized factory replacement parts and plate contains information about the manufacture of the automobile
aftermarket replacement parts. and how it is equipped. This plate is particularly useful when matching
Authorized factory replacement parts: Your General Motors Cor¬ body paint, interiors, and when having body repair work done.
poration Buick dealer is the best source of parts which are peculiar to Engine identification number
your Century or Regal car (major engine components, body panels, Due to the fact that various manufacturers have supplied the
trim pieces, and so on). If your auto is still covered under terms of the engines that are installed in Buick automobiles, the engine ident¬
factory warranty, the dealer is also the only place that you should buy ification numbers may appear in different locations. The easiest way to
all spares, as use of non-approved replacement parts will often determine who made the engine is to consult the VIN number.
invalidate your warranty. (Chapter 2 gives the details). Once you have identified the manufac¬
Aftermarket replacement parts: Auto parts and discount stores are turer, consult the figures in this section that show various locations of
good places to purchase frequently needed components for your car ID numbers. Some Buick engines have the ID number stamped on a
(brake linings, filters, hoses, spark plugs, exhaust systems, etc.). pad located on the right front corner of the block. Other engines may
Generally, routine maintenance items will cost considerably less at an have the number located on the front of the rocker arm cover on the
aftermarket store than they will at a factory dealer. These stores often left cylinder head. Finally, some engines have the number attached to
supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis. You bring in the oil filler tube.
the old part and "trade it in" on a new one, often at quite a saving.
These stores are also a good place to purchase general maintenance
items such as oil, grease, car wax, cleaners and head lamps. Other
items such as tools and accessories are also available.
Wherever you purchase spare parts, it is essential to provide the
parts counterman with correct information concerning the manufac¬
turer, model, year, engine serial number and VIN code. It also helps to
take along the old parts whenever possible.

Vehicle identification number (VIN)

This important code number is stamped onto a plate that is
located on the upper left side of the dashboard and can be easily seen
while looking through the car's windshield (from the outside). The VIN
also appears on the title and the registration. This number is required
by Federal law and gives such valuable information as where and
when the atomobile was manufactured, the body style and model year
of manufacture, and the type of engine installed in the car.
Buick vehicles use a variety of engines supplied by various GM
divisions (Oldsmobile, Chevrolet, Pontiac); knowing the manufacturer A Typical VIN plate as seen from outside the car looking through
of the engine is imperative to purchasing the correct spare parts. You the windshield
can identify which type of engine your Buick has by using the VIN
information supplied at the beginning of Chapter 2.
 Spare parts and vehicle identification numbers 17

Manual transmission number:

SEAT OPTION BODY
3- speed Saginaw - Lower right-hand side of the case, adjacent to
the cover.
4- speed Borg Warner - Rear vertical surface of the extension
housing.
4-speed Muncie - Rear right-hand side of the case flange
4-speed Saginaw — Lower right-hand side of case adjacent to the
cover.
Automatic transmission number:
The ID number for automatic transmissions is either on the right-
hand vertical surface of the case or on the tag at the right-hand side
of the transmission.
Rear axle number: Located on the right or left axle tube, adjacent to
the center.
Generator: On top drive end frame
Starter: Stamped on outer case, toward rear.
Tune-up decal: Located in various positions inside the engine compart¬
ment (See Chapter 1 for details).

C Typical body identification plate attached to the engine

compartment firewall
Maintenance techniques,
tools and working facilities
There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and (property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on
repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of automobiles).
these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex
better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, nuts from metric hex nuts. Standard nuts have dots stamped into one
which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete. side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the
number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of
Fastening systems the nut.
Fasteners, basically, are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property
two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts),
when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.
of some type; either a lock washer, locknut, locking tab or thread It should be noted that many fasteners, especially grades 0
adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the
undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where case, the only way to determine whether a particular fastener is
the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing damaged nuts and bolts standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a
with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be known fastener of the same size.
used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may
be replaced with new ones. have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or
Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when
ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has
in a spout type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.
penetrant, let it "work" for a few minutes before trying to loosen the
Tightening sequences and procedures
nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed
off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque
If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled out and value (torque is simply a twisting force). Over tightening a fastener can
removed with a special tool called an E-Z out. Most automotive weaken it and lead to eventual breakage, while under tightening can
machine shops can perform this task, as well as others (such as the cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending
repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out). on the materials they are made of and their thread diameters, have a
Flat washers and lock washers, when removed from an assembly, specific torque value (many of which are noted in the Specifications
should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace damaged Section at the beginning of each Chapter). Be sure to follow the torque
washers with new ones. Always use a flat washer between a lock recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque,
washer and any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. As was
metal or plastic. previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the
amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed
Fastener sizes here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners (higher grades
can tolerate higher torque values).
For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making
Fasteners laid out in a pattern (i.e. cylinder head bolts, oil pan
wider and wider use of metal fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be
bolts, water pump bolts, differential cover bolts, etc.) must be loosened
able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S.,
and tightened in a definite sequence to avoid warping the component.
English or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be inter¬
Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger tight only. Next,
changed.
they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal
All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to
pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the
diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard {-13x1
first one and tighten them all one-half turn, return to the first one and
bolt is y inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long.
tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally,
An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread
tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until they have all been
pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long.
tightened to the proper torque value. To loosen and remove them, the
The 2 bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not
procedure would be reversed.
interchangeable.
In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, Component disassembly
metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to
bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard help ensure that the parts go back together properly during re¬
bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric assembly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are
bolt is measured in millimetres (the same is true for nuts). As a result, removed. Make note of special characteristics or markings on parts
a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric that can be installed more than one way (such as a grooved thrust
wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, standard bolts washer on a shaft). Its a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out
have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be
grade or strength of the bolt (which is an indication of the amount of helpful to make simple sketches or take instant photos of components
torque that can be applied to it). The greater the number of slashes, the before removal.
greater the strength of the bolt (grades 0 through 5 are commonly When removing fasteners from an assembly, keep track of their
used on automobiles). Metric bolts have a property class (grade) locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the
number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mixups later. If nuts and
strength. In this case, the higher the number the stronger the bolt bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept
 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities 19

ft-lb Nm
Metric thread sizes
M 6. 6 to 9 9 to 12
M-8. 14 to 21 19 to 28
M 10. 28 to 40 38 to 54
M-12. 50 to 71 68 to 96
M-14. 80 to 140 109 to 154
Pipe thread sizes
J_
8 . 5 to 8 7 to 10
1
T . 12 to 18 1 7 to 24
3
e
1
. 22 to 33 30 to 44
2. 25 to 35 34 to 47
U.S. thread sizes
20.
| - 6 to 9 9 to 12
4-18. 12 to 18 17 to 24
4-24. 14 to 20 19 to 27
1-16. 22 to 32 30 to 43
1-24. 27 to 38 37 to 51
4-i4. 40 to 55 55 to 74
4-20. 40 to 60 55 to 81
1-13. 55 to 80 75 to 108

in a compartmented box or a series of small boxed. A cupcake or can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts (which must
muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts remain smooth). If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom
and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, handle, but keep in mind that extra clean-up will be necessary if the
engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when wood splinters.
working on assemblies with very small parts (such as the carburetor, After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully
alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces). The cavities can scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material
be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical
Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, to soften it so that it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be
it's a good idea to identify them with numbered pieces of masking tape fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening
so that they can be easily reconnected. one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the
surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part.
Gasket sealing surfaces Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the
Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for
surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick
enough to fill scratches will have to be used upon reassembly of the
pressure contained in an assembly.
Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste type components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying)
gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can gasket sealer is best.
sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they
are very difficult to separate. Often the assembly can be loosened by Hose removal tips
striking it with a soft-faced hammer near the mating surfaces. A Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precau¬
regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the tions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates
hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could against or the connection may leak. Because of various chemical
be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that
recheck to see that every fastener has been removed. the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that
Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they secure it to the spigot. Then, with a slip joint pliers, grab the hose at

Grade 1 or 2 Grade 5 Grade 8

D SAE system bolt identification (slash marks indicate strength rating; increasing number of marks means higher strength)
20 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

G Metric system hex nut identification (the higher the number,

F SAE system hex nut identification (increasing dots represent the greater the strength rating)
an increasing strength rating)

needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the Repair and
overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-
yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair
and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Special category
when he feels the expense is justified by the frequency of use.
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

© © ©
The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required
for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair
work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box end
and open end combined in one wrench); while more expensive than
open-ended ones, they offer the advantages of both types or wrench.
CLASS CLASS CLASS
Combination wrench set (\ in to 1 in or 6 mm to 19 mm)
10.9 9.8 8.8 Adjustable wrench - 8 in
Spark plug wrench Iwith rubber insert)
H Metric stud identification (large studs are marked with
Spark plug gap adjusting tool
strength rating numbers which increase as strength increases;
Feeler gauge set
smaller studs are marked with a geometric code)
Brake bleeder wrench
Standard screwdriver (^ in x 6 in)
the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until
Phillips screwdriver (No 2x6 in)
it is completely free, then pull it off (silicone or other lubricants will
Combination pliers - 6 in
ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the spigot).
Hacksaw and assortment of blades
Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of
Tire pressure gauge
the spigot to simplify installation.
Grease gun
If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Also, do not
Oil can
reuse hoses that are cracked, split or torn.
Fine emery doth
Wire brush
Tools
Battery post and cable cleaning tool
A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who
OH filter wrench
plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who
Funnel (medium size)
has few tools, if any, the initial investment might seem high, but when
Safety goggles
compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and
Jack stands (2)
repair, it is a wise one.
Drain pan
To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the
tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Note: if basic tune-ups are going to be a part of routine
Maintenance and minor repair. Repair and overhaul and Special. The maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality
newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Mainten¬ stroboscopic timing light and a combination tachometer/dwell meter.
ance and minor repair tool set, which is adequate for the simpler jobs Although they are included in the list of Special tools, they are
performed on a vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, mentioned here because they are absolutlly necessary for tuning most
he can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are vehicles properly.

I Valve spring compressor J Piston ring compressor

 J

K Universal hub puller L Micrometer set M Dial caliper

R Hydraulic lifter extractor S Piston ring groove cleaner

Q Piston ring expander

V Cylinder bore gauge

U Cylinder ridge reamer
T Cylinder surfacing hone
22 Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Repair and overhaul tool set Brake spring removal and installation tools
These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major Floor jack
repairs and are in addition to those in the Maintenance and minor
repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which,
Buying tools
though expensive, will be found to be invaluable because of their For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in
versatility (especially when various extensions and drives are avail¬ vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a couple of options available
able). We recommend the in drive over the f in drive. Although the when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent
larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capability of of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory.
accepting a very wide range of large sockets (ideally, the mechanic If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good
would have a f in drive set and a j in drive set). idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain
stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the
Socket set(s) individual tool prices (and they often come with a tool box). As
Reversible ratchet additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger
Extension - 10 in tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool
Universal joint set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer
Torque wrench (same size as sockets) period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only
Ball pein hammer - 8 oz those tools that will actually be used.
Soft-faced hammer (plastic/rubber) Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special
Standard screwdriver (\ in x 6 in) tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to
Standard screwdriver (stubby - ^ in) avoid cheap ones (especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets)
Phillips screwdriver (No 3x8 in) because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing
Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No 2) cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality
Pliers - Vise grip tools.
Pliers - lineman's
Care and maintenance of tools
Pliers - needle nose
Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with
Pliers - circlip (internal and external)
respect. Keep thim in a clean and usable condition and store them
Cold chisel - \ in
properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal
Seri be r
chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the
Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)
work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the
Center punch
hood for tools that may have been left there (so they don't get lost
Pin punches (^ ^ A in)
during a test drive).
Steel rule/straight edge - 12 in
Some tools, such as a screwdriver, pliers, wrenches and sockets,
Allen wrench set (^ to f in or 4 mm to 10 mm)
A selection of files can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall,
Wire brush (large) while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring
instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they
Jack stands (second set)
cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools.
Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)
When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last
Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill motor a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used
with a chuck capacity of f in (and a set of good quality drill bits). frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent
jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.
Special tools
For those who desire to learn more about tools and their uses, a
The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are
book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools is available from the
expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their
publishers of this manual.
manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently,
it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration
Working facilities
would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or
friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If
rental shop on a temporary basis. anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some
This list contains only those tools and instruments widely available sort of suitable work area is essential.
to the public, and not those special tools produced by vehicle It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do
manufacturers for distribution to dealer service departments. Oc¬ not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing
casionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included an engine or doing major repairs outside (it is recommended that the
in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof).
the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there A clean, flat workbench or table of suitable working height is an
is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise
cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to that has a jaw opening of at least 4 inches.
the dealer, a repair shop or an automotive machine shop. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also
required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents,
Valve spring compressor etc. which soon becomes necessary.
Piston ring groove cleaning tool Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or
Piston ring compressor transmission during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal
Piston ring installation tool problem. To avoid pouring oil on the ground or into the sewage
Cylinder compression gauge system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, saal them
Cylinder ridge reamer with caps and deliver them to a local recycling center or disposal area.
Cylinder surfacing hone Plastic jugs (such as old anti-freeze containers) are ideal for this
Cylinder bore gauge purpose.
Micrometers and/or dial calipers Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available.
Hydraulic lifter removal tool Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use
8alljoint separator rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available
Universal-type puller and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large
impact screwdriver cupboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or
Dial indicator set shop floor.
Stroboscopic timing tight (inductive pickup) Whenever working over a painted surface (such as when leaning
Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump over a fender to service something under the hood), always cover it
Tachometer/dwell meter with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered
Universal electrical multi-meter pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts
Cable hoist stores.
Jacking and towing
Jacking speeds of 35 mph or less. For each towing, the steering must be free,
The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used to raise the the transmission placed in Neutral' and the parking brake released.
car for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Under no Hook towing cables or chains to the chassis, not to the bumpers or
circumstances should work be performed beneath the vehicle nor bumper brackets.
should the engine be started while the jack is being used as the only It is possible to tow your car for distances greater than 50 miles
means of support. Before attempting to jack up your automobile, make if the driveshaft is disconnected and removed from the vehicle. This is
sure it is parked on level ground. Block the wheels and put the important. Transmission damage can result from towing a car with the
transmission in Park' (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Detailed driveshaft connected (particularly with automatic transmission).
instructions on jack positioning and use of the bumper jack are Safety is always an important consideration. Use a tow bar
supplied in the car owner's manual. whenever possible. Install a safety chain and obey all traffic laws.
Remember that power brakes and power steering will not operate
when the engine is not running. Also, the tow vehicle will require more
Towing maneuvering room and a longer braking/stopping distance when
If the driveline and steering are operable, the car may be towed
with all wheels on the ground for distances up to 50 miles and at towing another vehicle.
Automotive chemicals and lubricants
A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their
use in vehicle maintenance and repair. They represent a wide variety chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve
of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubri¬ gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They
cants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside
Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper
and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings.
from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can
to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices. withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care
Carburetor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted
but it is usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to
residue. It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or prevent contamination by water or dirt.
connections.
Undercoating is a petroleum-based tar-like substance that is
Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from designed to protect metal surfaces on the under-side of a vehicle from
brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely corrosion. It also acts as a sound deadening agent by insulating the
necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also bottom of the vehicle.
leaves no residue.
Weatherstrip cement is used to bond weatherstripping around
Silicone based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim
hoses, weatherstripping and grommets, and are used as lubricants for pieces as well.
hinges and locks.
Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and
Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grime that accumulates on engine and chassis components. They can
grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multi¬ be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the tire, are rinsed with
purpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more either water or solvent.
resistant to water than ordinary grease.
Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to
Bearing grease/wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home
where increased loads and friction are encountered (i.e. wheel mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do
bearings, universal joints, etc.). not produce irritating fumes.
High temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with
the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal-
equipped vehicles. It usally contains molybdenum disulfide, which is a to-metal joints. Many gaskets can withstand extreme heat, some are
'dry' type lubricant.
impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of
Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use,
used in differentials, manual transmissions and manual gearboxes, as gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They
well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket
required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various sealing surfaces.
applications.
Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents
Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available
the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent in a variety of types for different applications.
corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out
weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight electrical components such as the distributor, fuse block and wiring
of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and
the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks.
conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated
encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use
of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weiqhts of different types of wax or polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or
from 5W-20 to 20W-50.
abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint in
Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to slick older vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a
chemical treatments that are supposed to reduce friction. It should be wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been
noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with introduced. These non-wax polishes are usally easier to apply and last
their oils.
longer than conventional waxes and polishes.
25
 Troubleshooting
Contents

Engine Noisy in all gears. 34

Engine backfires. 13
Noisy in Neutral with engine running. 33
Engine 'diesels' (continues to run) after switching off. 15 Noisy in one particular gear. 35
Engine hard to start when cold. 4 Slips out of high gear. 35
Engine hard to start when hot. 5
Automatic transmission
Engine lacks power. 12
Engine will start in gears other than 'P' (Park) or 'N'
Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically. 8
(Neutral). 42
Engine misses at idle speed. g
Fluid leakage. 3g
Engine misses throughout driving range. 10
General shift mechanism problems. 40
Engine rotates but will not start. 2
Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in
Engine stalls. 1 i
forward or reverse. 43
Engine starts but stops immediately. 7
Transmission will not downshift with the accelerator pedal
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start. 1
pressed to the floor. 41
Pinging or knocking engine sounds on acceleration or uphill. 14
Driveshaft
Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement. 6
Starter motor operates without rotating engine. 3 Knock or clunk when the transmission is under initial load (just
Engine electrical after transmission is put into gear). 45
Leakage of fluid at front of drive shaft. 44
Battery will not hold a charge. 16
Metallic grating sound consistent with road speed. 46
Ignition light fails to come on when key is turned on. 18
Vibration. 47
Ignition light fails to go out. 17
Rear Axle
Engine fuel system
Noise - same when in drive as when vehicle is coasting. 48
Excessive fuel consumption. ig
Oil leakage. 50
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor. 20
Vibration. 4g
Engine cooling system
Brakes
External water leakage. 23
Brake pedal appears spongy when depressed. 54
Internal water leakage. 24
Brake pedal pulsates during brake application. 57
Overcooling. 22
Excessive brake pedal travel. 53
Overheating. 21
Excessive effort required to stop vehicle. 55
Poor coolant circulation. 26
Noise (high-pitched squeal without the brakes applied). 52
Water loss. 25
Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance. 56
Clutch
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking. 51
Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged. 32 Suspension and steering
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in road
Car pulls to one side. 58
speed). 28
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during
Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does not
braking. 60
move freely in and out of reverse). 27
Excessive play in steering. 62
Grabbing (juddering) on take-up. 29
Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area). 64
Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal
Excessive tire wear on inside edge. 66
depressed). 3^
Excessive tire wear on outside edge. 65
Squeal or rumble with clutch fully engaged (pedal released). 30
Excessively stiff steering. 61
Manual transmission Lack of power assistance. 63
Difficulty in engaging gears. 37
Shimmy, shake or vibration. 5g
Fluid leakage. 30
Tire tread worn in one place. 67

1 Engine will not rotate when attempting to start the engine. Remove starter (Chapter 5) and inspect pinion and
flywheel (Chapter 2) at earliest convenience.
1 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. Check the cable 6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
terminals at the battery; tighten or clean corrosion as necessary. 7 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5).
2 Battery discharged or faulty. If the cable connectors are clean and 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 10).
tight on the battery posts, turn the key to the 'On' position and switch
on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If these fail to function, the
battery is discharged.
2 Engine rotates but will not start
3 Automatic transmission not fully engaged in 'Park' or manual
transmission clutch not fully depressed. 1 Fuel tank empty.
4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Inspect 2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation of
all wiring and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid (at lower right electrical components as described in previous Section (see Chap.1).
side of engine) and ignition switch (on steering column). 3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous
5 Starter motor pinion jammed on flywheel ring gear. If manual Section.
transmission, place gearshift in gear and rock the car to manually turn 4 Carburetor flooded and/or fuel level in carburetor incorrect. This
 Troubleshooting 27

will usually be accompanied by a strong fuel odor from under the hood.
Wait a few minutes, depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the 8 Engine Topes' while idling or idles erratically
floor and attempt to start the engine.
5 Choke control inoperative (Chapters 1 and 4). 1 Vacuum leakage. Check mounting bolts (nuts) at the carburetor
6 Fuel not reaching carburetor. With ignition switch in 'Off' position, and intake manifold for tightness. Check that all vacuum hoses are
open hood, remove the top plate of air cleaner assembly and observe connected and are in good condition. Use a doctor's stethoscope or a
the top of the carburetor (manually move choke plate back if length of fuel line hose held against your ear to listen for vacuum leaks
necessary). Have an assistant depress accelerator pedal fully and while the engine is runnng. A hissing sound will be heard. A soapy
check that fuel spurts into carburetor. If not, check fuel filter (Chapters water solution will also detect leaks. Check the carburetor and intake
1 and 4), fuel lines and fuel pump (Chapter 4). manifold gasket surfaces.
7 Excessive moisture on, or damage to, ignition components 2 Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (see Chapter 6).
(Chapter 1). 3 Air cleaner clogged and in need of replacement (Chapter 1).
8 Worn, faulty or incorrectly adjusted spark plugs (Chapter 1). 4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the carburetor (see
9 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (see Section 7).
previous Section). 5 Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4).
10 Distributor loose, thus changing ignition timing. Turn the dis¬ 6 Leaking head gasket. If this is suspected, take the car to a repair
tributor body as necessary to start the engine, then set ignition timing shop or GM dealer where this can be pressure checked without the
as soon as possible (Chapter 1). need to remove the heads.
1 1 Ignition condenser faulty (Chapter 5). 7 Timing chain or gears worn and in need of replacement (Chap.2).
12 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil, or faulty 8 Camshaft lobes worn, necessitating the removal of the camshaft
coil (Chapter 5). for inspection (Chapter 2).

3 Starter motor operates without rotating engine 9 Engine misses at idle speed

1 Starter pinion sticking. Remove the starter (Chapter 5) and 1 Spark plugs faulty or not gapped properly (Chapter 1).
inspect. 2 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1).
2 Starter pinion or engine flywheel teeth worn or broken. Remove 3 Faulty or incorrectly set contact breaker points (1974 models
the inspection cover at the rear of the engine and inspect. only). Also check for excessive moisture on distributor components
and/or damage (Chapter 1).
4 Carburetor choke not operating properly (Chapter 1).
4 Engine hard to start when cold 5 Sticking or faulty emissions systems (see Troubleshooting in
Chapter 6).
1 Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Section 1. 6 Clogged fuel filter and/or foreign matter in fuel. Remove the fuel
2 Choke control inoperative or out of adjustment (Chapters 1 and 4). filter (Chapter 1) and inspect.
3 Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). 7 Vacuum leaks at carburetor, intake manifold or at hose connec¬
4 Fuel supply not reaching the carburetor (see Section 2). tions. Check as described in Section 8.
5 Carburetor worn and in need of overhauling (Chapter 4). 8 Incorrect idle speed (Chapter 1) or idle mixture (Chapter 4).
9 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1).
10 Uneven or low cylinder compression. Remove plugs and use
compression tester as per manufacturer's instructions.
5 Engine hard to start when hot

1 Choke sticking in the closed position (Chapter 1).

2 Carburetor flooded (see Section 2). 10 Engine misses throughout driving speed range
3 Air filter in need of replacement (Chapter 1).
4 Fuel not reaching the carburetor (see Section 2). 1 Carburetor fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system
5 Thermae air cleaner faulty (Chapter 1). (Chapter 1). Also check fuel output at the carburetor (see Section 7).
6 EFE (heat riser) sticking in the closed position (Chapter 1). 2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
3 Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter 1).
4 Contact points faulty or incorrectly set (1974 models only). At the
6 Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement same time check for a cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor
wires, or damage to the distributor components (Chapter 1).
1 Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken. Remove the 5 Leaking spark plug wires (Chapter 1).
inspection cover at the rear of the engine and inspect. 6 Emissions system components faulty (see Troubleshooting sec¬
2 Starter motor retaining bolts loose or missing. tion, Chapter 6).
7 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Remove spark
plugs and test compression with gauge.
8 Weak or faulty ignition coil or condenser (1974 models, see
7 Engine starts but stops immediately
Chapter 5).
9 Weak or faulty HEI ignition system (1975 - 1980 models, see
1 Loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or
Chapter 5).
alternator. . , .. 10 Vacuum leaks at carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (see
2 Insufficient fuel reaching the carburetor. Disconnect the fuel line at
the carburetor and remove the filter (Chapter 1). Place a container Section 8).
under the disconnected fuel line. If equipped with HEl system (197b
- 1980), disconnect wiring connector marked BAT from distributor
cap. If conventional system (1974), disconnect the coil wire rom e 11 Engine stalls
center of the distributor cap. These steps will prevent the engine from
1 Carburetor idle speed incorrectly set (Chapter 1).
starting. Have an assistant crank the engine several revolutions by
2 Carburetor fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the
turning the ignition key. Observe the flow of fuel from the line If lit le
fuel system (Chapter 1).
or none at all, check for blockage in the lines and/or replace the fuel
3 Choke improperly adjusted or sticking (Chapter 1).
4 Distributor components damp, points out of adjustment or dam¬
3 Vacuum leakat the gasket surfaces or the intake manifold and/or
age to distributor cap, rotor, etc. (Chapter 1).
carburetor. Check that all mounting bolts (nuts) are tightened to
5 Emission system components faulty (Troubleshooting section.
specifications and all vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor and
Chapter 6).
manifold are positioned properly and are in good con it ion.
28 Troubleshooting

6 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. (Chapter 1). Also check 3 Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
spark plug wires (Chapter 1). 4 Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).
7 Vacuum leak at the carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. 5 Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5).
Check as described in Section 8. 6 Short in vehicle circuitry causing a continual drain on battery.
8 Valve lash incorrectly set (Chapter 2). 7 Battery defective internally.

12 Engine lacks power 17 Ignition light fails to go out

1 Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1). 1 Fault in alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).
2 Excessive play in distributor shaft. At the same time check for 2 Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter 1).
worn or maladjusted contact points, faulty distributor cap, wires, etc.
(Chapter 1).
3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
18 Ignition light fails to come on when key is turned
4 Carburetor not adjusted properly or excessively worn (Chapter 4).
5 Weak coil or condensor (Chapter 5).
1 Ignition light bulb faulty (Chapter 10).
6 Faulty FHEI system coil (Chapter 5).
2 Alternator faulty (Chapter 5).
7 Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
3 Fault in the printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter 10).
8 Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect, causing slippage
(Chapter 1).
9 Manual transmission clutch slipping (Chapter 1). Engine fuel system
10 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
1 1 Emission control systems not functioning properly (see Trouble¬
shooting, Chapter 6). 19 Excessive fuel consumption
12 Use of sub-standard fuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel.
13 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Test with com¬ 1 Dirty or choked air filter element (Chapter 1).
pression tester, which will also detect leaking valves and/or blown 2 Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter 1).
head gasket. 3 Choke sticking or improperly adjusted (Chapter 1).
4 TCS emission system not functioning properly (not all cars, see
Chapter 6).
13 Engine backfires 5 Carburetor idle speed and/or mixture not adjusted properly (Chap¬
ters 1 and 4).
1 Emissions systems not functioning properly (see Troubleshooting, 6 Carburetor internal parts excessively worn or damaged (Chap.4).
Chapter 6). 7 Low tire pressure or incorrect tire size (Chapter 1).
2 Ignition timing incorrect (Section 1).
3 Carburetor in need of adjustment or worn excessively (Chapter 4).
4 Vacuum leak at carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. 20 Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor
Check as described in Section 8.
5 Valve lash incorrectly set, and/or valves sticking (Chapter 2). 1 Leak in a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 6).
2 Tank overfilled. Fill only to automatic shut-off.
3 ECS emission system filter in need of replacement (Chapter 6).
14 Pinging or knocking engine sounds on hard acceleration or 4 Vapor leaks from ECS system lines (Chapter 6).
uphill 5 Carburetor internal parts excessively worn or out of adjustment
(Chapter 4).
1 Incorrect grade of fuel. Fill tank with fuel of the proper octane
rating. Engine cooling system
2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).
3 Carburetor in need of adjustment (Chapter 4).
4 Improper spark plugs. Check plug type with that specified on tune- 21 Overheating
up decal located inside engine compartment. Also check plugs and
wires for damage (Chapter 1). 1 Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
5 Worn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 1). 2 Fan belt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
6 Faulty emission systems (see Troubleshooting, Chapter 6). 3 Radiator core blocked or radiator grille dirty and restricted
7 Vacuum leak. (Check as described in Section 8). (Chapter 3).
4 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
5 Freewheeling clutch fan not functioning properly. Check for oil
15 Engine diesels' (continues to run) after switching off leakage at the rear of the cooling fan, indicating the need for
replacement (Chapter 3).
1 Idle speed too fast (Chapter 1). 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure. Flave cap pressure
2 Electrical solenoid at side of carburetor not functioning properly tested by gas station or repair shop.
(not all models, see Chapter 4). 7 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).
3 Ignition timing incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
4 Thermae air cleaner valve not operating properly (see Trouble¬
shooting, Chapter 6). 22 Overcooling
5 Excessive engine operating temperatures. Probable causes of this
are: malfunctioning thermostat, clogged radiator, faulty water pump. 1 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
(See Chapter 3).
2 Inaccurate temperature gauge (Chapter 10).

Engine electric
23 External water leakage

16 Battery will not hold a charge 1 Deteriorated or damaged hoses. Loose clamps at hose connec¬
tions (Chapter 1).
1 Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1). 2 Water pump seals defective. If this is the case, water will drip from
2 Electrolyte level too low or too weak (Chapter 1). the 'weep' hole in the water pump body (Chapter 3).
 Troubleshooting 29

3 Leakage from radiator core or header tank. This will require the
radiator to be professionally repaired (see Chapter 3 for removal 30 Squeal or rumble with clutch fully engaged (pedal released)
procedures).
4 Engine drain plugs or water jacket freeze plugs leaking (see 1 Improper adjustment; no lash (Chapter 8).
Chapters 2 and 3). 2 Release bearing binding on transmission bearing retainer. Remove
clutch components (Chapter 8) and check bearing. Remove any burrs
or nicks, clean and relubricate before reinstallation.
3 Weak linkage return spring. Replace the spring.
24 Internal water leakage

Note: Internal coolant leaks can usually be detected by examining

the oil. Check the dipstick and inside of valve cover for water deposits 31 Squeal or rumble with clutch fully disengaged (pedal de¬
and an oil consistency like that of a milkshake. pressed)
1 Faulty cylinder head gasket. Have the system pressure-tested
professionally or remove the cylinder heads (Chapter 2) and inspect. 1 Worn, faulty or broken release bearing (Chapter 8).
2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head. Dismantle engine and 2 Worn or broken pressure plate springs (or diaphragm fingers)
inspect (Chapter 2). (Chapter 8).

25 Water loss 32 Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged

1 Overfilling system (Chapter 1). 1 Bind in linkage or release bearing. Inspect linkage or remove
2 Coolant boiling away due to overheating (see causes in Section clutch components as necessary.
15). 2 Linkage springs being over-traveled. Adjust linkage for proper lash.
3 Internal or external leakage (see Sections 22 and 23). Make sure proper pedal stop (bumper) is installed.
4 Faulty radiator cap. Have the cap pressure tested.
Manual transmission

Note: AH the following Section references contained within Chapter 7.

26 Poor coolant circulation

1 Inoperative water pump. A quick test is to pinch the top radiator

33 Noisy in neutral with engine running
hose closed with your hand while the engine is idling, then let loose.
You should feel a surge of water if the pump is working properly
1 Input shaft bearing worn (Sections 10 and 1 1).
(Chapter 3).
2 Damaged main drive gear bearing (Sections 10 and 11).
2 Restriction in cooling system. Drain, flush and refill the system
3 Worn countergear bearings (Sections 10 and 11).
(Chapter 1). If it appears necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter 3)
4 Worn or damaged countergear anti-lash plate (Sections 10 and
and have it reverse-flushed or professionally cleaned.
3 Fan drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
11).
4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

Clutch 34 Noisy in all gears

1 Any of the above causes, and/or:

27 Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever does 2 Insufficient lubricant (see checking procedures in Chapter 1).
not move freely in and out of reverse

1 Improper linkage adjustment (Chapter 8).

2 Clutch fork off ball stud. Look under the car, on the left side of 35 Noisy in one particular gear
transmission.
1 Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth for that particular gear
3 Clutch disc warped, bent or excessively damaged (Chapter 8).
(Sections 10 and 1 1).
2 Worn or damaged synchronizer for that particular gear (Sections
10 and 1 1).
28 Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in road
speed)
36 Slips out of high gear
1 Linkage in need of adjustment (Chapter 8).
2 Clutch disc oil soaked or facing worn. Remove disc (Chapter 8) 1 Transmission loose on clutch housing (Section 3).
and inspect. 2 Shift rods interfering with engine mounts or clutch lever (Section
3 Clutch disc not seated in. It may take 30 or 40 normal starts for 2).
a new disc to seat. 3 Shift rods not working freely (Section 2).
4 Damaged mainshaft pilot bearing (Section 9).
5 Dirt between transmission case and clutch housing, or misalign¬
ment of transmission (Section 9).
6 Worn or improperly adjusted linkage (Section 2).
29 Grabbing (juddering) on take-up

1 Oil on clutch disc facings. Remove disc (Chapter 8) and inspect.

Correct any leakage source. 37 Difficulty in engaging gears
2 Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts. These units may
move slightly when clutch is released. Inspect mounts and bolts. 1 Clutch not releasing fully (see clutch adjustment, Chapter 8).
3 Worn splines on clutch gear. Remove clutch components (Chapter
2 Loose, damaged or maladjusted shift linkage. Make a thorough
8) and inspect. , , . inspection, replacing parts as necessary. Adjust as described in
4 Warped pressure plate or flywheel. Remove clutch components
Section 2.
and inspect.
 30 Troubleshooting

2 Before taking the vehicle to a specialist, check the level of the fluid
38 Fluid leakage and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct fluid level
as necessary or change the fluid and filter if needed. If problem
1 Excessive amount of lubricant in transmission (see Chapter 1 for persists, have a professional diagnose the probable cause.
correct checking procedures. Drain lubricant as required).
2 Side cover loose or gasket damaged (Sections 7 and 8).
Driveshaft
3 Rear oil seal or speedometer oil seal in need of replacement
(Section 6).

Automatic transmission 44 Leakage of fluid at front of driveshaft

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is 1 Defective transmission rear oil seal. See Chapter 7 for replacing
difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this procedures. While this is done, check the splined yoke for burrs or a
component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should rough condition which may be damaging the seal. If found, these can
be taken to a reputable mechanic. be dressed with crocus cloth or a fine dressing stone.

39 Fluid leakage
45 Knock or clunk when transmission is under initial load (just
after transmission is put into gear)
1 Automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color, and fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil which can easily be blown by 1 Loose or disconnected rear suspension components. Check all
air flow to the transmission.
mounting bolts and bushings (Chapter 1).
2 To pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from
2 Loose driveshaft bolts. Inspect all bolts and nuts and tighten to
around the transmission. Degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning torque specifications (Chapter 8).
will achieve this. With the underside clean, drive the car at low speeds
3 Worn or damaged universal joint bearings. Test for wear (Chapter
so the air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the car 8).
and determine where the leak is coming from. Common areas of
leakage are:
a) Fluid pan: tighten mounting bolts and/or replace pan gasket as
necessary (see Chapter 1). 46 Metallic grating sound consistent with road speed
b) Rear extension: tighten bolts and/or replace oil seal as necess¬
ary (Chapter 8). 1 Pronounced wear in the universal joint bearings. Test for wear
c) Filler pipe: replace the rubber oil seal where pipe enters (Chapter 8).
transmission case.
d) Transmission oil lines: tighten connectors where lines enter
transmission case and/or replace lines. 47 Vibration
e) Vent pipe: transmission over-filled and/or water in fluid (see
checking procedures. Chapter 1).
Note: Before it can be assumed that the driveshaft is at fault, make
f) Speedometer connector: replace the O-ring where speed¬
sure the tires are perfectly balanced and perform the following test.
ometer cable enters transmission case.
1 Install a tachometer inside the car to monitor engine speed as the
car is driven. Drive the car and note the engine speed at which the
vibration (roughness) is most pronounced. Now shift the transmission
40 General shift mechanism problems
to a different gear and bring the engine speed to the same point.
2 If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed (rpm) regardless
1 Sections 4 and 5 in Chapter 7B deal with checking and adjusting of which gear the transmission is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault since
the shift linkage on automatic transmissions. Common problems the driveshaft speed varies.
which may be attributed to maladjusted linkage are:
3 If the vibration decreases or is eliminated when the transmission
a) Engine starting in gears other than 'P' (Park) or 'N' (Neutral). is in a different gear at the same engine speed, refer to the following
b) Indicator on quadrant pointing to a gear other than the one probable causes.
actually being used.
4 Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and replace as necessary
c) Vehicle will not hold firm when in *P' (Park) position. (Chapter 8).
Refer to Sections 4 or 5 in Chapter 7B to adjust the manual 5 Undercoating or built-up dirt, etc. on the driveshaft. Clean the
linkage.
shaft thoroughly and test.
6 Worn universal joint bearings. Remove and inspect (Chapter 8).
7 Driveshaft and/or companion flange out of balance. Check for
41 Transmission will not downshift with accelerator pedal press¬ missing weights on the shaft. Remove driveshaft (Chapter 8) and
ed to the floor reinstall 180° from original position. Retest. Have driveshaft pro¬
fessionally balanced if problem persists.
1 Sections 6 and 7 in Chapter 7B deal with adjusting the downshift
cable or downshift switch to enable the transmission to downshift
properly. Rear axle

42 Engine will start in gears other than 'P' (Park) or 'N' (Neutral) 48 Noise - same when in Drive as when vehicle is coasting

1 Sections 9 in Chapter 7B deals with adjusting the neutral start 1 Road noise. No corrective procedures available.
switch used with automatic transmissions. 2 Tire noise. Inspect tires and tire pressures (Chapter 1).
3 Front wheel bearings loose, worn or damaged (Chapter 1).

43 Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in

forward or reverse gears 49 Vibration

1 There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the 1 See probable causes under 'Driveshaft'. Proceed under the guide¬
home mechanic should concern himself only with one possibility; fluid lines listed for the driveshaft. If the problem persists, check the rear
level.
wheel bearings by raising the rear of the car and spinning the wheels
 Troubleshooting 31

by hand. Listen for evidence of rough (noisy) bearings. Remove and

inspect (Chapter 8). 56 Pedal travels to floor with little resistance

1 Little or no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir caused by: leaking

wheel cylinder(s); leaking caliper piston(s); loose, damaged or discon¬
50 Oil leakage nected brake lines. Inspect entire system and correct as necessary.

1 Pinion oil seal damaged (Chapter 8).

2 Axle shaft oil seals damaged (Chapter 8). 57 Brake pedal pulsates during brake application
3 Differential inspection cover leaking. Tighten mounting bolts or
replace the gasket as required (Chapter 1). 1 Wheel bearings not adjusted properly or in need of replacement
(Chapter 1).
Brakes 2 Caliper not sliding properly due to improper installation or obstruc¬
Note: Before assuming a brake problem exists, check: that the tions. Remove and inspect (Chapter 9).
tires are in good condition and are inflated properly (see Chapter 1); 3 Rotor not within specifications. Remove the rotor (Chapter 9) and
the front end alignment is correct; and that the vehicle is not loaded check for excessive lateral run-out and parellelism. Have the rotor
with weight in an unequal manner. professionally machined or replace it with a new one.

Suspension and steering

51 Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
58 Car pulls to one side
1 Defective, damaged or oil contaminated disc pad on one side.
Inspect as described in Chapter 1. Refer to Chapter 9 if replacement 1 Tire pressures uneven (Chapter 1).
is required. 2 Defective tire (Chapter 1).
2 Excessive wear of brake pad material or disc on one side. Inspect 3 Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 1).
and correct as necessary. 4 Front end in need of alignment. Take car to a qualified specialist.
3 Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and 5 Front brakes dragging. Inspect braking system as described in
tighten all bolts to specifications (Chapter 1). Chapter 1.
4 Defective caliper assembly. Remove caliper and inspect for stuck
piston or damage (Chapter 9).
59 Shimmy, shake or vibration

1 Tire or wheel out of balance or out of round. Have professionally

52 Noise (high-pitched squeak without brake applied) balanced.
2 Loose, worn or out-of-adjustment wheel bearings (Chapter 1).
1 Front brake pads worn out. This noise comes from the wear sensor 3 Shock absorbers and/or suspension components worn or damag¬
rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new ones immediately ed (Chapter 1 1).
(Chapter 9).

60 Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during

53 Excessive brake pad travel braking

1 Partial brake system failure. Inspect entire system (Chapter 1) and 1 Defective shock absorbers. Replace as a set (Chapter 1 1).
2 Broken or weak coil springs and/or suspension components.
correct as required.
2 Insufficient fluid in master cylinder. Check (Chapter 1) and add Inspect as described in Chapter 1 1.
fluid and bleed system if necessary.
3 Rear brakes not adjusting properly. Make a series of starts and
stops while the vehicle is in R (Reverse). If this does not correct the
61 Excessively stiff steering
situation remove drums and inspect self-adjusters (Chapter 1).
1 Lack of lubricant in steering box (manual) or power steering fluid
reservoir (Chapter 1).
2 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1).
54 Brake pedal appears spongy when depressed 3 Lack of lubrication at steering joints (Chapter 1).
4 Front end out of alignment.
1 Air in hydraulic lines. Bleed the brake system (Chapter 9).
5 See also Section 63 'Lack of power assistance'.
2 Faulty flexible hoses. Inspect all system hoses and lines. Replace
parts as necessary.
3 Master cylinder mountings insecure. Inspect master cylinder bolts
(nuts) and torque-tighten to specifications. 62 Excessive play in steering
4 Master cylinder faulty (Chapter 9).
1 Loose wheel bearings (Chapter 1).
2 Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapter 1).
3 Steering gear out of adjustment (Chapter 1 1).
55 Excessive effort required to stop vehicle _

1 Power brake servo not operating properly (Chapter 9).

63 Lack of power assistance
2 Excessively worn linings or pads. Inspect and replace if necessary

1 Steering pump drivebelt faulty or not adjusted properly (Chapter

3° One or'more caliper pistons (front wheels) or wheel cyders (rear
wheels) seized or sticking. Inspect and rebuild as required Chapter ). 1).
2 Fluid level low (Chapter 1).
4 Brake linings or pads contaminated with oil or grease. Inspect an
3 Hoses or pipes restricting the flow. Inspect and replace parts as
replace as required (Chapter 1). -n 0
necessary.
5 New pads or linings fitted and not yet 'bedded in . It will take a
4 Air in power steering system. Bleed system (Chapter 1 1).
while for the new material to seat against the drum (or rotor).
32 Troubleshooting

4 Suspension arm bent or twisted.

64 Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area)

1 Incorrect tire pressures (Chapter 1). 66 Excessive tire wear on inside edge
2 Tires out of balance. Have professionally balanced.
3 Wheels damaged. Inspect and replace as necessary. 1 Inflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).
4 Suspension or steering components excessively worn (Chapter 1). 2 Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out). Have professionally
aligned.
3 Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter 1).

65 Excessive tire wear on outside edge

67 Tire tread worn in one place
1 Inflation pressures not correct (Chapter 1).
2 Excessive speed on turns. 1 Tires out of balance. Balance tires professionally.
3 Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have pro¬ 2 Damaged or buckled wheel. Inspect and replace if necessary.
fessionally aligned. 3 Defective tire.
Safety first!
Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with Fire
the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopard¬ Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke
ized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle.
failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short
an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static
considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are in¬ electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite
tended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety con¬ gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do
scious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle. not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an
approved safety solvent.
Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before
working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk
Essential DOs and DON'Ts spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component.
DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use ap¬ It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use
proved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop
under the recommended lift or support points. at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.
DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts)
while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. Fumes
DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious¬
is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into
DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any drain¬
or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. ing or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated
DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled area.
to the point that it will not burn you. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on
DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers.
cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust
DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you
by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have
DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see the rear of the vehicle outside the work area.
Asbestos below) If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never
DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is
before someone slips on it. over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the
DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and pit with possibly lethal results.
cause injury.
DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. The battery
Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They
pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly
knuckles if the wrench should slip. explosive.
DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before
help you. working on the fuel or electrical systems.
DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery
DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-
are working on it. free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may
DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, burst.
bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and
DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very
parts. . corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin.
DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent
adequate for the job. the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.
DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on
a vehicle. Household current
DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which
is correctly assembled and tightened. operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is cor¬
DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of rectly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly
children and pets. , ., , grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do
DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.
vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage

Asbestos A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the
Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as
ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is run¬
brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets,
ning or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insula¬
etc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation
tion is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secon¬
of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt,
dary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.
assume that they do contain asbestos.
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance
Contents

Air filter and PCV filter replacement. 12 Fuel filter replacement. 18

Automatic transmission fluid change. 25 Fuel system check. 10
Brakes check. 26 Ignition timing adjustment. 19
Carburetor choke check. 20 Introduction. i
Carburetor mounting torque. 27 Oil and filter change. 4
Chassis lubrication. 5 Point replacement, dwell angle adjustment and distributor
Clutch pedal free travel check. 13 check (1974 models only). 30
Cooling system check. 6 Positive crankcase valve replacement. 11
Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and Rear axle fluid change. 22
refilling) . 29 Spark plug replacement. 23
EFE system (heat riser) check. 17 Spark plug wires check. 28
Engine drive belt check and adjustment. 9 Suspension and steering check. 8
Engine idle speed adjustment. 16 Thermo controlled air cleaner check. 15
Evaporative Control System (ECS) filter replacement. 31 Tire and tire pressure check. 3
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve check. 21 Tire rotation. 14
Exhaust system check. 7 Wheel bearing check and repack. 24
Fluid levels check. 2

Specifications

Note: Additional specifications and torque settings can be found in each individual Chapter.
Engine oil capacity
Refill (all). 4 qts
With new filter
1979 and 1980 Pontiac 265/301 engines 4 qts
All others. 5 qts

Filters and emission control devices

Crankcase vent filter type. FB59
PCV valve type
1974 and 1975 . CV768C (all)
1976 . CV768C (V8), CV770C (V6)
1977 and 1978 . CV797C (V6), CV774C (V8)
1979 and 1980. CV792C (VIN codes W-Y), CV774C (VIN codes L-H)
Fuel filter type
1974 and 1975 . GF441 (4bbl 350 V8), GF427 (V6, 2bbl 350 V8)
1 976 through 1 978 . GF470 (V6), GF427 (V8)
1979 and 1980. GF471 (all)
Oil filter type
1 974 through 1 976 . PF39 (V6), PF24 (V8)
1 977 and 1978 .' PF 40 (V6), PF25 (V8)
1979 and 1980. PF47 (VIN codes W-Y), PF25 (VIN codes L-H), PF40 (V6)

Ignition system
Distributor type
1974 . Mechanical breaker
1 975 through 1 980. Breakerless, electronic (designated HEI)
Direction of distributor rotation Clockwise
Breaker point gap (1 974). 0.016 in
Dwell angle (1974). 30°±2°
Dwell variation. 3° max
Firing order
V8. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
V6. 1-6-5-4-3-2
Spark plug gap. See tune-up decal in engine compartment or Specifications in Chapter
5
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 35

Ignition timing See tune-up decal in engine compartment or specifications in Chapter

5

Clutch pedal free-play. 1,0±0.3 in (measured at center of pad)

Torque specifications ft-lb

Oil pan drain plug. 20
Spark plugs. 15
Carburetor mounting nuts. 12
Fuel inlet nut (fuel filter). 18
Manual transmission fill plug:
All except Muncie 4-speed .. 18
Muncie 4-speed. 30
Automatic transmission pan bolts 12
Rear axle filler/inspection plug. 22
Rear axle cover bolts. 27
Brake caliper mounting bolts. 35
Wheel nuts:
1 974 through 1 975 . 70
1976 through 1980. 80

1 Introduction Every 3750 miles or 6 months - whichever comes first

This Chapter was designed to help the home mechanic maintain Change engine oil and filter (Section 4)*.
his (or her) car for peak performance, economy, safety and longevity. Lubricate the chassis components (Section 5).
On the following pages you will find a maintenance schedule Check the cooling system (Section 6).
along with sections which deal specifically with each item on the Check the exhaust system (Section 7).
schedule. Included are visual checks, adjustments and item replace¬ Check the suspension and steering components (Section 8).
Check and adjust (if necessary) the engine drive belts (Section 9).
ments.
Servicing your car using the time/mileage maintenance schedule Check the fuel system components (Section 10).
and the sequenced sections will give you a planned program of Check the brake master cylinder fluid level (Section 2).
maintenance. Keep in mind that it is a full plan, and maintaining only Check the manual transmission fluid level (Section 2).
a few items at the specified intervals will not give you the same Check the rear axle fluid level (Section 2).
Replace the (PCV) valve (Section 1).
results.
You will find as you service your car that many of the procedures Replace the air filter and PCV filter (Section 12).
can, and should, be grouped together, due to the nature of the job at
hand. Examples of this are as follows:
If the car is fully raised for a chassis lubrication, for example, this Every 7500 miles or 12 months - whichever comes first
is the ideal time for the following checks: manual transmission fluid,
rear axle fluid, exhaust system, suspension, steering and the fuel Check the clutch pedal free-play (manual transmission only
system. (Section 13).
If the tires and wheels are removed, as during a routine tire Rotate the tires (Section 14).
rotation, go ahead and check the brakes and wheel bearings at the Check the Thermo Controlled air cleaner for proper operation
same time. (Section 1 5).
If you must borrow or rent a torque wrench, you will do best to Check and adjust (if necessary) the engine idle speed (Section 16).
service the spark plugs, repack (or replace) the wheel bearings and Check the EFE system (Section 17).
check the carburetor mounting torque all in the same day to save time Replace the fuel filter (Section 18).
Check and adjust (if necessary) the engine ignition timing (Section
and money.
The first step of this or any maintenance plan is to prepare yourself 19).
before the actual work begins. Read through the appropriate sections Check the operation of the choke (Section 20).
for all work that is to be performed before you begin. Gather together Check the operation of the EGR valve (Section 21).
Change rear axle fluid (if car is used to pull a trailer) (Section 22).
all necessary parts and tools. If it appears you could have a problem
during a particular job, don't hesitate to ask advice from your local
parts man or dealer service department.
Every 15 000 miles or 12 months - whichever comes first

Replace the spark plugs (Section 24).

Routine maintenance intervals
Check and repack the front wheel bearings (perform this pro¬
cedure whenever brakes are relined, regardless of maintenance
interval) (Section 25).
Every 250 miles or weekly - whichever comes first Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter (if mainly driven
under following conditions: heavy city traffic in hot-climate regions: in
Check the engine oil level (Section 2). hill or mountain areas: frequent trailer pulling (Section 26).
Check the engine coolant level (Section 2). Check the braking system (Section 27).
Check the windshield washer fluid level (Section 2). Check the mounting torque of the carburetor (Section 28).
Check the battery water level (if equipped with removable vent
Check the spark plug wires (Section 29).
caps) (Sec 2). Drain, flush and refill the cooling system (Section 30).
Check the tires and tire pressures (Section 3). Replace the contact points, adjust dwell angle and check the
Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 2).
distributor (1974 models only) (Section 31).
Check the power steering fluid level (Section 2).
 36 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Engine oil
Every 30 000 miles or 24 months - whichever comes first 2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick which is located at
the side of the engine block. This dipstick travels through a tube and
Change the rear axle fluid (if car is used to pull a trailer, change at into the oil pan to the bottom of the engine.
7500 miles) (Section 2). 3 The oil level should be checked preferably before the car has been
Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter (if driven under driven, or about 1 5 minutes after the engine has been shut off. If the
abnormal conditions, see 15 000 miles servicing) (Section 26). oil is checked immediately after driving the car, some of the oil will
Check the ECS emissions system and replace the charcoal canister remain in the upper engine components, thus giving an inaccurate
filter (Section 32). reading on the dipstick.
*Note: Buick recommends 3000 mile oil/filter change intervals for 4 Pull the dipstick from its tube and wipe all the oil from the end
engines equipped with a turbocharger. It is advisable, where practical, with a clean rag. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into the oil
to shorten the interval even more to further protect against turbo¬ pan and pull it out again. Observe the oil at the end of the dipstick
charger wear and damage. (photo). At its highest point, the level should be between the 'Add' and
Full' marks.
5 It takes approximately 1 quart of oil to raise the level from the
Add' mark to the 'Full' mark on the dipstick. Do not allow the level to
drop below the 'Add' mark as this may cause engine damage due to
2 Fluid levels check oil starvation. On the other hand, do not overfill the engine by adding
oil above the Full' mark as this may result in oil-fouled spark plugs, oil
1 There are a number of components on a vehicle which rely on the leaks or oil seal failures.
use of fluids to perform their job. Through the normal operation of the 6 Oil is added to the engine after removing a twist-off cap located
car, these fluids are used up and must be replenished before damage either on the rocker arm cover or through a raised tube near the front
occurs. See the Recommended Lubricants Section for the specific fluid of the engine. The cap should be duly marked 'Engine oil' or similar
to be used when adding is required. When checking fluid levels it is wording. An oil can spout or funnel will reduce spills as the oil is
important that the car is on a level surface. poured in.

ft n n n 1)

Fig- Checking brake fluid in the master cylinder (Sec 2)

COOL

WARM
Fig. 1.3 The power steering dipstick is built into the cap (check
Fig. 1.2 Automatic transmission dipstick and markings (test for fluid level with engine running) (Sec 2)
fluid level after car has been fully warmed up and with engine
running) (Sec 2)

2.4 Checking the oil level at the bottom of the 2.1 7 Maintenance-free batteries have an eye 2.18 On conventional batteries, remove the
dipstick which indicates battery condition by changing vent caps and check the fluid level (use only
color distilled water for topping up)
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 37

7 Checking the oil level can also be a step towards preventative 17 Vehicles equipped with Freedom' or maintenance-free batteries
maintenance. If you find the oil level dropping abnormally, this is an require no maintenance as the battery case is sealed and has no
indication of oil leakage or internal engine wear which should be removal caps for adding water (photo).
corrected. If there are water droplets in the oil, or it is milky looking, 18 If a maintenance-type battery is installed, the caps on the top of
this also indicates component failure and the engine should be the battery should be removed periodically to check for a low water
checked immediately. The condition of the oil can also be checked level (photo). This check will be more critical during the warm summer
along with the level. With the dipstick removed from the engine, take months.
your thumb and index finger and wipe the oil up the dipstick, looking 19 Remove each of the caps and add distilled water to bring the level
for small dirt particles or engine filings which will cling to the dipstick. of each cell to the split ring in the filler opening.
This is an indication that the oil should be drained and fresh oil added 20 At the same time the battery water level is checked, the overall
(Section 4). condition of the battery and its related components should be
inspected. If corrosion is found on the cable ends or battery terminals,
remove the cables and clean away all corrosion using a baking
Engine coolant
soda/water solution or a wire brush cleaning tool designed for this
8 Most vehicles are equipped with a pressurized coolant recovery
system which makes coolant level checks very easy. A clear or white purpose. See Chapter 5 for complete battery care and servicing.

coolant reservoir attached to the inner fender panel is connected by a

hose to the radiator cap. As the engine heats up during operation, Brake master cylinder
coolant is forced from the radiator, through the connecting tube and 21 The brake master cylinder is located on the left side of the engine
into the reservoir. As the engine cools, this coolant is automatically compartment firewall and has a cap which must be removed to check
drawn back into the radiator to keep the correct level. the fluid level.
9 The coolant level should be checked when the engine is cold. 22 Before removing the cap, use a rag to clean all dirt, grease, etc.
Merely observe the level of fluid in the reservor, which should be at or from around the cap area. If any foreign matter enters the master
near the 'Full cold' mark on the side of the reservoir. If the system is cylinder with the cap removed, blockage in the brake system lines can
completely cooled, also check the level in the radiator by removing the occur. Also make sure all painted surfaces around the master cylinder
cap. Some systems also have a 'Full hot' mark to check the level when are covered, as brake fluid will ruin paintwork.
the engine is hot. 23 Release the clip(s) securing the cap to the top of the master
10 If your particular vehicle is not equipped with a coolant recovery cylinder. In most cases, a screwdriver can be used to pry the wire
system, the level should be checked by removing the radiator cap. clip(s) free.
However, the cap should not under any circumstances be removed 24 Carefully lift the cap off the cylinder and observe the fluid level. It
while the system is hot, as escaping steam could cause serious injury. should be approximately -j-inch below the top edge of each reservoir.
Wait until the engine has completely cooled, then wrap a thick cloth 25 If additional fluid is necessary to bring the level up to the proper
around the cap and turn it to its first stop. If any steam escapes from height, carefully pour the specified brake fluid into the master cylinder.
the cap, allow the engine to cool further. Then remove the cap and Be careful not to spill the fluid on painted surfaces. Be sure the
check the level in the radiator. It should be about 2 to 3 inches below specified fluid is used, as mixing different types of brake fluid can
cause damage to the system. See Recommended Lubricants or your
the bottom of the filler neck.
11 If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system owner's manual.
up to the proper level, regular water can be used. However, to 26 At this time the fluid and master cylinder can be inspected for
maintain the proper antifreeze/water mixture in the system, both contamination. Normally, the braking system will not need periodic
should be mixed together to replenish a low level. High-quality anti¬ draining and refilling, but if rust deposits, dirt particles or water
freeze offering protection to -20° should be mixed with water in the droplets are seen in the fluid, the system should be dismantled,
proportion specified on the container. Do not allow antifreeze to come drained and refilled with fresh fluid.
in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the car. Flush 27 Reinstall the master cylinder cap and secure it with the clip(s).
Make sure the lid is properly seated to prevent fluid leakage and/or
contacted areas immediately with plenty of water.
12 On systems with a recovery tank, coolant should be added to the system pressure loss.
28 The brake fluid in the master cylinder will drop slightly as the brake
reservoir after removing the cap at the top of the reservoir. Coolant
shoes or pads at each wheel wear down during normal operation. If
should be added directly into the radiator on systems without a
the master cylinder requires repeated replenishing to keep it at the
coolant recovery tank.
proper level, this is an indication of leakage in the brake system which
13 As the coolant level is checked, observe the condition of the
should be corrected immediately. Check all brake lines and their
coolant. It should be relatively clear. If the fluid is brown or a rust color,
connections, along with the wheel cylinders and booster (see Chapter
this is an indication that the system should be drained, flushed and
9 for more information).
refilled (Section 29).
29 If upon checking the master cylinder fluid level you discover one
14 If the cooling system requires repeated additions to keep the
or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty, the braking system should
proper level, have the pressure radiator cap checked for proper sealing
be bled (Chapter 9). When the fluid level gets low, air can enter the
ability. Also check for leaks in the system (cracked hoses, loose hose
system and should be removed by bleeding the brakes.
connections, leaking gaskets, etc.).

Manual transmission
Windshield washer 30 Manual shift transmissions do not have a dipstick. The fluid level
1 5 The fluid for the windshield washer system is located in a plastic
is checked by removing a plug in the side of the transmission case.
reservoir. The level inside the reservoir should be maintained at the
Locate this plug and use a rag to clean the plug and the area around
'Full' mark. . ,
it.
16 General Motors 'Optikleen' washer solvent or its equivalent should
31 With the vehicle components cold, remove the plug. If fluid
be added through the plastic cap whenever replenishing is required.
immediately starts leaking out, thread the plug back into the trans¬
Do not use plain water alone in this system, especially in cold climates
mission because the fluid level is alright. If there is no fluid leakage,
where the water could freeze. completely remove the plug and place your little finger inside the hole.
The fluid level should be just at the bottom of the plug hole.
32 If the transmission needs more fluid, use a syringe to squeeze the
Note: There are certain precautions to be taken when working on or appropriate lubricant into the plug hole to bring the fluid up to the
near the battery: a) Never expose a battery to open flame or sparks proper level.
which could ignite the hydrogen gas given off by the battery b) Wear 33 Thread the plug back into the transmission and tighten it securely.
protective clothing and eye protection to reduce the possibility of the Drive the car and check for leaks around the plug.
corrosive sulfuric acid solution inside the battery harming you if the
fluid is splashed or spilled, flush the contacted area '""P***”'.* Automatic transmission
plenty of water): c) Remove all metal jewelry which C0U,* °°"™J t 34 The fluid inside the transmission must be at normal operating
positive terminal and another grounded metal source reach temperature to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. This is done by
short circuit: d) Always keep batteries and battery acid out of the rea driving the car for several miles, making frequent starts and stops to
of children.
 38 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

allow the transmission to shift through all gears. overall riding comfort of the car.
35 Park the car on a level surface, place the selector lever in 'Park' 3 When inspecting the tire, first check the wear on the tread.
and leave the engine running at an idle. Irregularities in the tread pattern (cupping, flat spots, more wear on
36 Remove the transmission dipstick (located on the right side, near one side than the other) are indications of front end alignment and/or
the rear of the engine) and wipe all the fluid from the end of the balance problems. If any of these conditions are found you would do
dipstick with a clean rag. best to take the car to a competent repair shop which can correct the
37 Push the dipstick back into the transmission until the cap seats problem.
firmly on the dipstick tube. Now remove the dipstick again and observe 4 Also check the tread area for cuts or punctures. Many times a nail
the fluid on the end. The highest point of fluid should be between the or tack will imbed itself into the tire tread and yet the tire will hold its
'Full' mark and | inch below the 'Full' mark. air pressure for a short time. In most cases, a repair shop or gas station
38 If the fluid level is at or below the Add' mark on the dipstick, add can repair the punctured tire.
sufficient fluid to raise the level to the 'Full' mark. One pint of fluid will 5 It is also important to check the sidewalls of the tire, both inside
raise the level from Add' to 'Full'. Fluid should be added directly into and outside. Check for the rubber being deteriorated, cut or punctured.
the dipstick guide tube, using a funnel to prevent spills. Also inspect the inboard side of the tire for signs of brake fluid leakage,
39 It is important that the transmission not be overfilled. Under no indicating a thorough brake inspection is needed immediately (Section
circumstances should the fluid level be above the Full’ mark on the 26).
disptick, as this could cause internal damage to the transmission. The 6 Incorrect tire pressure cannot be determined merely by looking at
best way to prevent overfilling is to add fluid a little at a time, driving the tire. This is especially true for radial tires. A tire pressure gauge
the car and checking the level between additions. must be used. If you do not already have a reliable gauge, it is a good
40 Use only transmission fluid specified by GM. This information can idea to purchase one and keep it in the glove box. Built-in pressure
be found in the Recommended Lubricants Section. gauges at gas stations are often unreliable. If you are in doubt as to the
41 The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the accuracy of your gauge, many repair shops have 'master' pressure
level. If the fluid at the end of the dipstick is a dark reddish-brown gauges which you can use for comparison purposes.
color, or if the fluid has a 'burnt' smell, the transmission fluid should be 7 Always check tire inflation when the tires are cold. Cold, in this
changed with fresh. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, case, means the car has not been driven more than one mile after
purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell. sitting for three hours or more. It is normal for the pressure to increase
4 to 8 pounds or more when the tires are hot.
Rear axle 8 Unscrew the valve cap protruding from the wheel or hubcap and
42 Like the manual transmission, the rear axle has an inspection and firmly press the gauge onto the valve stem. Observe the reading on the
fill plug which must be removed to check the fluid level. gauge and check this figure against the recommended tire pressure
43 Remove the plug which is located either in the removable cover listed on the tire placard. This tire placard is usually found attached to
plate or on the side of the differential carrier. Use your little finger to the rear portion of the driver's door or on the inside of the glovebox
reach inside the rear axle housing to feel the level of the fluid. It should door.
be at the bottom of the plug hole. 9 Check all tires and add air as necessary to bring all tires up to the
44 If this is not the case, add the proper lubricant into the rear axle recommended pressure levels. Do not forget the spare tire. Be sure to
carrier through the plug hole. A syringe or a small funnel can be used reinstall the valve caps which will keep dirt and moisture out of the
for this. valve stem mechanism.
45 Make certain the correct lubricant is used, as regular and
Positraction rear axles require different lubricants. You can ascertain
which type of axle you have by reading the stamped number on the 4 Engine oil and filter change
axle tube (See Vehicle Identification Numbers at the front of this
manual).
1 Frequent oil changes may be the best form of preventative
46 Tighten the plug securely and check for leaks after the first few
maintenance available for the home mechanic. When engine oil ages,
miles of driving.
it gets diluted and contaminated which ultimately leads to premature
parts wear.
Power steering 2 Although some sources recommend oil filter changes every other
47 Unlike manual steering, the power steering system relies on fluid oil change, we feel that the minimal cost of an oil filter and the relative
which may, over a period of time, require replenishing. ease with which it is installed dictates that a new filter be used
48 The reservoir for the power steering pump will be located near the whenever the oil is changed.
front of the engine, and can be mounted on either the left or right side. 3 The tools necessary for a normal oil and filter change are: a
49 The power steering fluid level should be checked only after the car wrench to fit the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan; an oil filter
has been driven, with the fluid at operating temperature. The front wrench to remove the old filter; a container with at least a six-quart
wheels should be pointed straight ahead. capacity to drain the old oil into; and a funnel or oil can spout to help
50 With the engine shut off, use a rag to clean the reservoir cap and pour fresh oil into the engine.
the areas around the cap. This will help to prevent foreign material 4 In addition, you should have plenty of clean rags and newspapers
from falling into the reservoir when the cap is removed. handy to mop up any spills. Access to the underside of the car is
51 Twist off the reservoir cap which has a built-in dipstick attached to greatly improved if the car can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps
it. Pull off the cap and clean the fluid at the bottom of the dipstick with or supported by jack stands. Do not work under a car which is
a clean rag. Now reinstall the dipstick/cap assembly to get a fluid level supported only by a bumper, hydraulic or scissors-type jack.
reading. Remove the dipstick/cap and observe the fluid level. It should 5 If this is your first oil change on the car, it is a good idea to crawl
be at the 'Full hot' mark on the dipstick. underneath and familiarize yourself with the locations of the oil drain
52 If additional fluid is required, pour the specified lubricant directly plug and the oil filter. Since the engine and exhaust components will
into the reservoir using a funnel to prevent spills. be warm during the actual work, it is best to figure out any potential
53 If the reservoir requires frequent fluid additions, all power steering problems before the car and its accessories are hot.
hoses, hose connections, the power steering pump and the steering 6 Allow the car to warm up to normal operating temperature. If the
box should be carefully checked for leaks. new oil or any tools are needed, use this warm-up time to gather
everything necessary for the job. The correct type of oil to buy for your
application can be found in Recommended Lubricants near the front of
3 Tire and tire pressure checks this manual.
7 With the engine oil warm (warm engine oil will drain better and
1 Periodically inspecting the tires can not only prevent you from more built-up sludge will be removed with the oil), raise the vehicle for
being stranded with a flat tire, but can also give you clues as to access beneath. Make sure the car is firmly supported. If jack stands
possible problems with the steering and suspension systems before are used they should be placed towards the front of the frame rails
major damage occurs. which run the length of the car.
2 Proper tire inflation adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, allows 8 Move all necessary tools, rags and newspaper under the car.
the car to achieve maximum miles per gallon figures, and helps the Position the drain pan under the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil
4.9 On certain models, the oil drain plug is located on the side of the 4.14 Install the oil filter wrench over the outer edge of the canister
pan otherwise the canister may collapse and jam

4.19 A thin coat of engine oil rubbed on the new filter gasket will help
4.18 Clean the filter mounting pedestal and make sure the old rubber
ensure a proper seal
gasket has been removed

Fig. 1.4 Tread wear indicators run across the width of the tire and
4.20 Hand tighten the filter until it contacts the pedestal, then tighten show when it is in need of replacement (Sec 3)
another yturn
 40 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

will initially flow from the pan with some force, so place the pan shops and gas stations will normally accept the oil which can be
accordingly.
refined and used again. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into
9 Being careful not to touch any of the hot exhaust pipe compo¬ a suitable container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons,
nents, use the wrench to remove the drain plug near the bottom of the etc.) for transport to one of these disposal sites. Do not dump dirty oil
oil pan (photo). Depending on how hot the oil has become, you may onto the ground. If you do not live near an oil reclamation center
want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug the final few turns. properly contained oil will usually be taken by the trash man.
10 Allow the old oil to drain into the pan. It may be necessary to move
the pan further under the engine as the oil flow reduces to a trickle.
11 After all the oil has drained, clean the drain plug thoroughly with
5 Chassis lubrication
a clean rag. Small metal filings may cling to this plug which could
immediately contaminate your new oil.
1 A grease gun and a cartridge filled with the proper grease (see
12 Clean the area around the drain plug opening and reinstall the
Recommended Lubricants) are usually the only equipment necessary
drain plug. Tighten the plug securely with your wrench. If a torque
to lubricate the chassis components. Occasionally on later model
wrench is available, the torque setting is 20 ft-lb.
vehicles, plugs will be installed rather than grease fittings, in which
13 Move the drain pan in position under the oil filter.
case grease fittings will have to be purchased and installed.
14 Now use the filter wrench to loosen the oil filter (photo). Chain or
2 Carefully look over Fig. 1.5 which shows where the various grease
metal band-type filter wrenches may distort the filter canister, but
fittings are located. A more detailed chart showing both chassis and
don't worry too much about this as the filter will be discarded anyway.
mechanical lube points is shown under the Recommended Lubricants
15 Sometimes the oil filter is on so tight it cannot be loosened, or it
Section at the beginning of this manual. Look under the car to find
is positioned in an area which is inaccessible with a filter wrench. As
these components and ascertain if grease fittings or solid plugs are
a last resort, you can punch a metal bar or long screwdriver directly
installed. If there are plugs, remove them with the correct wrench and
through the bottom of the canister and use this as a T-bar to turn the
buy grease fittings which will thread into the component. A GM dealer
filter. If this must be done, be prepared for oil to spurt out of the
canister as it is punctured. or auto parts store will be able to find replacement fittings. Straight, as
well as angled, fittings are available for easy greasing.
16 Completely unscrew the old filter. Be careful, it is full of oil. Empty
3 For easier access under the car, raise the vehicle with a jack and
the old oil inside the filter into the drain pan.
place jack stands under the frame. Make sure the car is firmly
17 Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they are of
supported by the stands.
the same type.
4 Before you do any greasing, force a little of the grease out the
18 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the area
nozzle to remove any dirt from the end of the gun. Wipe the nozzle
where the oil filter mounts to the engine (photo). Check the old filter
clean with a rag.
to make sure the rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine mounting
5 With the grease gun, plenty of clean rags and the location
surface. If this gasket is stuck to the engine (use a flashlight if
necessary), remove it. diagram, go under the car to begin lubricating the components.
6 Wipe the grease fitting nipple clean and push the nozzle firmly,
19 Open one of the cans of new oil and fill the new filter with fresh
over the fitting nipple. Squeeze the trigger on the grease gun to force
oil. Also smear a light coat of this fresh oil onto the rubber gasket of
grease into the component (photo).
the new oil filter (photo).
20 Screw the new filter to the engine following the tightening
directions printed on the filter canister or packing box (photo). Most
filter manufacturers recommend against using a filter wrench due to
possible overtightening or damage to the canister.
21 Remove all tools, rags, etc. from under the car, being careful not
to spill the oil in the drain pan. Lower the car off its support devices.
22 Move to the engine compartment and locate the oil filler cap on
the engine. In most cases there will be a screw-off cap on the rocker
arm cover (at the side of the engine) or a cap at the end of a fill tube
at the front of the engine. In any case, the cap will most likely be
labeled 'Engine Oil' or something similar.
23 If an oil can spout is used, push the spout into the top of the oil
can and pour the fresh oil through the filler opening. A funnel placed
into the opening may also be used.
24 Pour about 3 qts. of fresh oil into the engine. Wait a few minutes
to allow the oil to drain to the pan, then check the level on the oil
dipstick (see Section 2 if necessary). Note: When changing oil (or
performing any operation which results in oil drainage or loss) on a
turbocharged V6, perform the following steps BEFORE starting the
engine:

(a) Disconnect the ignition switch connector (pink wire) from the
HEI distributor.
(b) Crank the engine over several times until the oil light goes out
(do not exceed 30 seconds for each cranking interval).
(c) Reconnect the pink wire to the distributor, then recheck the
oil level. This procedure will ensure that the bearings in the
turbocharger are not damaged due to lack of lubrication. If
the oil level is at or near the lower 'Add' mark, start the engine
and allow the new oil to circulate.
25 Run the engine for only about a minute and then shut it off.
Immediately look under the car and check for leaks at the oil pan drain
plug and around the oil filter. If either is leaking, tighten with a bit more
force.
26 With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full,
recheck the level on the dipstick and add enough oil to bring the level
to the 'Full' mark on the dipstick.
Fig. 1.5 Main chassis lubrication points (Sec 5)
27 During the first few trips after an oil change, make a point to check
for leaks and also the oil level.
1 Transmission 4 Parking brake cables
28 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present
2 Steering 5 Drive shaft U-joint
state and should be disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair 3 Front suspension
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 41

5.6a Pumping grease into one of the steering system grease fittings 5.6b When greasing the balljoints (upper joint is shown here), take
care not to over-grease

Note: The balljoints (one upper and one lower for each wheel) should
be lubricated until the rubber reservoir is firm to the touch (photo). Do 6 Cooling system check
not pump too much grease into these fittings as this could rupture the
reservoir. For all other suspension and steering fittings, continue 1 Many major engine failures can be attributed to a faulty cooling
pumping grease into the nipple until grease seeps Out of the joint system. If equipped with an automatic transmission, the cooling
between the two components. If the grease seeps out around the system also plays an integral role in transmission longevity.
grease gun nozzle, the nipple is dogged or the nozzle is not fully seated 2 The cooling system should be checked with the engine cold. Do
around the fitting nipple. Re-secure the gun nozzle to the fitting and try this before the car is driven for the day or after it has been shut off for
again. If necessary, replace the fitting. one or two hours.
7 Wipe the excess grease from the components and the grease 3 Remove the radiator cap and thoroughly clean the cap (inside and
fitting. Follow these procedures for the remaining fittings. out) with clean water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All
8 Check the universal joints on the driveshaft; some have fittings, traces of corrosion should be removed.
some are factory sealed. About two pumps is all that is required for 4 Carefully check the upper and lower radiator hoses along with the
grease type universal joints. While you are under the car, clean and smaller diameter heater hoses. Inspect their entire length, replacing
lubricate the parking brake cable along with its cable guides and any hose which is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration.
levers. This can be done by smearing some of the chassis grease onto Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (photos).
the cable and its related parts with your fingers. Place a few drops of 5 Also check that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling
light engine oil on the transmission shifting linkage rods and swivels. system will usually show up as white or rust colored deposits on the
9 Lower the car to the ground for the remaining body lubrication areas adjoining the leak.
6 Use compressed air or a soft brush to remove bugs, leaves, etc.
process.
I 0 Open the hood and smear a little chassis grease on the hood latch from the front of the radiator or air conditioning condensor. Be careful
mechanism. If the hood has an inside release, have an assistant pull not to damage the delicate cooling fins, or cut yourself on the sharp
the release knob from inside the car as you lubricate the cable at the fins.
7 Finally, have the cap and system tested for proper pressure. If you
latch.
do not have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will
II Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood, trunk) with a few drops of
do this for a minimal charge.
light engine oil to keep them in proper working order.
12 Finally, the key lock cylinders can be lubricated with spray-on
graphite which is available at auto parts stores.
7 Exhaust system check

1 With the exhaust system cold (at least three hours after being
SHORT ARM BALL JOINT
driven), check the complete exhaust system from its starting point at
the engine to the end of the tailpipe. This is best done on a hoist where
full access is available.
2 Check the pipes and their connections for signs of leakage and/or
corrosion indicating a potential failure. Check that all brackets and
hangers are in good condition and are tight (photo).
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes,
corrosion, open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the trunk or passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with
silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other driving noises can often be traced to the exhaust
system, especially the mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes,
muffler and catalytic converter (if equipped). If the components can
come into contact with the body or driveline parts, secure the exhaust
system with new mountings.
5 This is also an ideal time to check the running condition of the
Fig. 1.6 Location of suspension balljoints (Sec 5)
engine by inspecting the very end of the tailpipe. The exhaust deposits
here are an indication of engine tune. If the pipe is black and sooty
 42 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

6.4 Check radiator and heater hoses by squeezing

7.2 All exhaust flanges and connections should be checked for leaks

7.5 Black, sooty deposits in the tail pipe end may indicate that tune-
8.6 Cracked rubber bushings in the steering and suspension must be
up or carburetor adjustment is necessary replaced with new ones

(photo), or bright white deposits are found here, the engine is in need the tire/wheel on its spindle. If there is movement of more than 0.005
of a tune-up including a thorough carburetor inspection and adjust¬ in, the wheel bearings should be serviced (see Section 24).
ment.
6 Crawl under the car and check for loose bolts, broken or
disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings (photo) on all
suspension and steering components. Look for grease or fluid leaking
8 Suspension and steering check from around the steering box. Check the power steering hoses and
their connections for leaks. Check the balljoints for wear.
1 Whenever the front of the car is raised for service it is a good idea 7 Have an assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side and
to visually check the suspension and steering components for wear. check the steering components for free movement, chafing or binding.
2 Indications of a fault in these systems are: excessive play in the If the steering does not react with the movement of the steering
steering wheel before the front wheels react; excessive sway around wheel, try to determine where the slack is located.
corners or body movement over rough roads; binding at some point as
the steering wheel is turned.
3 Before the car is raised for inspection, test the shock absorbers by 9 Engine drive belt check and adjustment
pushing downward to rock the car at each corner. If you push the car
down and it does not come back to a level position within one or two
1 The drive belts, or V-belts as they are sometimes called, at the
bounces, the shocks are worn and need to be replaced. As this is done, front of the engine play an important role in the overall operation of the
check for squeaks and strange noises from the suspension compo¬ car and its components. Due to their function and material make-up,
nents. Information on shock absorber and suspension components can
the belts are prone to failure after a period of time and should be
be found in Chapter 11.
inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent major engine damage.
4 Now raise the front end of the car and support firmly by jack
2 The number of belts used on a particular car depends on the
stands placed under the frame rails. Because of the work to be done,
accessories installed. Drive belts are used to turn: the generator
make sure the car cannot fall from the stands.
(alternator); A.I.R. smog pump; power steering pump; water pump;
5 Grab the top and bottom of the front tire with your hands and rock
fan; and air conditioning compressor. Depending on the pulley
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 43

10 Fuel system check

1 There are certain precautions to take when inspecting or servicing

the fuel system components. Work in a well ventilated area and do not
allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) to get near
the work area. Mop up spills immediately and do not store fuel-soaked
rags where they could ignite.
2 The fuel system is under some amount of pressure, so if any fuel
lines are disconnected for servicing, be prepared to catch the fuel as it
spurts out. Plug all disconnected fuel lines immediately after discon¬
nection to prevent the tank from emptying itself.
3 The fuel system is most easily checked with the car raised on a
hoist where the components under the car are readily visible and
accessible.
4 If the smell of gasoline is noticed while driving, or after the car has
sat in the sun, the system should be thoroughly inspected immediately.
5 Remove the gas filler cap and check for damage, corrosion and a
proper sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the cap with a new one
if necessary.
6 With the car raised, inspect the gas tank and filler neck for
BtPlACfMeNl is BfQUtBfO punctures, cracks or any damage. The connection between the filler
neck and the tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck
Fig. 1.7 Location of balljoint wear indicators (Sec 8) will leak due to loose clamps or deteriorated rubber; problems a home
mechanic can usually rectify.
7 Do not under any circumstances try to repair a fuel tank yourself
(except rubber components) unless you have considerable experience.
A welding torch or any open flame can easily cause the fuel vapors to
explode if the proper precautions are not taken.
8 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from
the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hose, crimped
lines or damage of any kind. Follow these lines up to the front of the
car, carefully inspecting them all the way. Repair or replace damaged
sections as necessary.
9 If a fuel odor is still evident after the inspection, refer to Section
31 on the evaporative emissions system and Section 16 for carburetor
adjustment.

11 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve replacement

Fig. 1.8 Checking engine drivebelt tension (Sec 9) 1 The PCV valve can usually be found pushed into one of the rocker
arm covers at the side of the engine. There will be a hose connected
to the valve which runs to either the carburetor or the intake manifold.
7 in (1 78 mm) to 17 in (280 mm) } in (64 mm) deflection
2 When purchasing a replacement PCV valve, make sure it is for
12 in (305 mm) to 16 in (406 mm) i in (12.7 mm) deflection
your particular vehicle, model year and engine size.
3 Pull the valve (with the hose attached) from its rubber grommet in
arrangement, a single belt may be used for more than one of these
the rocker arm cover.
ancillary components.
4 Using pliers or a screwdriver, depending on the type of clamp,
3 With the engine off, open the hood and locate the various belts at
the front of the engine. Using your fingers (and a flashlight if loosen the clamp at the end of the hose and move the clamp upwards
necessary), move along the belts checking for cracks or separation. on the PCV hose (photo).
5 Now pull the PCV valve from the end of the hose, noting its
Also check for fraying and for glazing which gives the belt a shiny
appearance. Both sides of the belts should be inspected, which means installed position and direction.
6 Compare the old valve with the new one to make sure they are the
you will have to twist the belt to check the underside.
4 The tension of each belt is checked by pushing on the belt at a same.
7 Push the new valve into the end of the hose until it is fully seated.
distance halfway between the pulleys. Push firmly with your thumb
8 Move the hose clamp down the hose and tighten the clamp
and see how much the belt moves downward (deflects) (photo). A rule
securely around the end of the hose.
of thumb, so to speak, is that if the distance (pulley center to pulley
9 Inspect the rubber grommet in the cover for damage and replace
center) is between 7 inches and 1 1 inches the belt should deflect T
it with a new one if faulty.
inch. If the belt is longer and travels between pulleys spaced 12 inches
10 Push the PCV valve and hose securely into the rocker arm cover.
to 16 inches apart, the belt should deflect j in.
11 More information on the PCV system can be found in Chapter 6.
5 If it is found necessary to adjust the belt tension, either to make
the belt tighter or looser, this is done by moving the belt-driven
accessory on its bracket. . u „„ . 12 Air filter and PCV filter replacement
6 For each component there will be an adjustment or strap bolt and
a pivot bolt. Both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to
1 At the specified intervals, the air filter and PCV filter should be
move the component. . __ replaced with new ones. A thorough program of preventative mainten¬
7 After the two bolts have been loosened, move the component
ance would call for the two filters to be inspected periodically between
away from the engine (to tighten the belt) or toward the en9'"® "
changes.
loosen the belt) (photo). Hold the accessory in this position and chec
2 The air filter is located inside the air cleaner housing on the top of
the belt tension. If it is correct, tighten the two bolts untH snug, the
the engine. To remove the filter, unscrew the wing nut at the top of the
recheck the tension. If it is alright, fully tighten the two o s. air cleaner and lift off the top plate (photo). If there are vacuum hoses
8 It will often be necessary to use some sort of pry bar to move the
connected to this plate, note their positions and disconnect them.
accessory while the belt is adjusted. If this must e rone o g 3 While the top plate is off, be careful not to drop anything down
proper leverage, be very careful not to damage the component being
into the carburetor.
moved, or the part being pried against.
 44 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

9.7 Adjust belt tension by gently prying on the component while the 11.4 Use pliers to release the hose clamp and slide it away from the
adjustment bolt is tightened valve

12.5 If light can be easily seen through the filter, it can be reused (if
12.12 The PCV filter is usually located inside the cleaner housing
you are in doubt as to the condition of filter, replace it)

4 Lift the air filter out of the housing (photo). 15 Connect the PCV hose and tighten the clamp around the end of
5 To check the filter, hold it up to strong sunlight, or place a the hose.
flashlight or droplight on the inside of the ring-shaped filter (photo). If 16 Reinstall the air cleaner top plate and any vacuum hoses which
you can see light coming through the paper element, the filter is were disconnected.
alright. Check all the way around the filter. 17 A few engines will not have the PCV filter at the air cleaner, but
6 Wipe the inside of the air cleaner clean with a rag. rather the filter will be in the PCV hose at some point. To locate the
/ Place the old filter (if in good condition) or the new filter (if filter, find the hose leading into the side of the air cleaner housing and
specified interval has elapsed) back into the air cleaner housing. Make follow this hose to the filter.
sure it seats properly in the bottom of the housing. 18 Replacing 'in-line' PCV filters is usually a simple matter of
8 Connect any disconnected vacuum hoses to the top plate and disconnecting the hose from the filter and then pushing a replacement
reinstall the top plate with the wing nut. filter into the hose.
9 On nearly all cars the PCV filter is also located inside the air 19 For more information on these filters and the systems they are a
cleaner housing. Remove the top plate as described previously and part of, see Chapter 4 and Chapter 6.
locate the filter on the side of the housing.
1 0 Loosen the hose clamp at the end of the PCV hose leading to the
filter. Disconnect the hose from the filter.
13 Clutch pedal free travel check
1 1 Remove the metal locking clip which secures the filter holder to
the air cleaner housing. Pliers can be used for this.
1 If equipped with a manual shift transmission, it is important to
12 Remove the filter and plastic holder from the inside of the air
have the clutch free play at the proper point. Basically, free play at the
cleaner (photo).
clutch pedal is the point at which time the clutch components engage
1 3 Compare the new filter with the old one to make sure they are the
and the car starts moving. When the pedal is pushed all the way to the
same.
floor, the clutch parts are disengaged and the car doesn't travel. As the
14 Place the new filter assembly into position and install the metal
pedal travels away from the floor, the parts engage and the vehicle is
locking clip on the outside of the air cleaner.
set into motion. It is the measured distance which the pedal moves
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 45

1 5.4 Operation of the damper door is checked 16.3 A typical tune-up decal giving specific 1 6.4 The carburetor idle adjustment screw is
through the snorkel tube at the end of the air information for your particular engine located on the left side of the carburetor (arrow
cleaner housing points to electrically operated idle solenoid)

between these two points which indicates free travel.

2 With the car on a level surface, turn on the engine and allow it to 1 5 Thermo controlled air cleaner check
idle. Apply the parking brake to prevent the car from moving.
3 Depress the clutch pedal until it is approximately y inch from the 1 All models are equipped with a thermostatically controlled air
floor mat or carpeting. cleaner which draws air to the carburetor from different locations
4 Hold the pedal in this position and move the shift lever between depending upon engine temperature.
first and reverse gears several times. If this can be done smoothly, the 2 This is a simple visual check; however, if access is tight, a small
clutch is fully releasing and no adjustment is necessary. If the shift is mirror may have to be used.
not smooth, the clutch pedal free play should be adjusted. 3 Open the hood and find the vacuum flapper door on the air cleaner
5 If adjustment is necessary, refer to Chapter 8 for the step-by-step assembly. It wil be located inside the long 'snorkel' of the metal air
sequence to follow. cleaner. Check that the flexible air hose(s) are securely attached and
are not damaged.
4 If there is a flexible air duct attached to the end of the snorkel,
leading to an area behind the grille, disconnect it at the snorkel. This
14 Tire rotation
will enable you to look through the end of the snorkel and see the
flapper door inside (photo).
1 The tires should be rotated at the specified intervals and whenever
5 The testing should preferably be done when the engine and
uneven wear is noticed. Since the car will be raised and the tires
outside air are cold. Start the engine and look through the snorkel at
removed anyway, this is a good time to check the brakes (Section 26)
the flapper door which should move to a closed position. With the door
and/or repack the wheel bearings (Section 24). Read over these
closed, air cannot enter through the end of the snorkel, but rather air
sections if this is to be done at the same time.
enters the air cleaner through the flexible duct attached to the exhaust
2 The location for each tire in the rotation sequence depends on the
manifold.
type of tire used on your car. Tire type can be determined by reading
6 As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the door should
the raised printing on the sidewall of the tire. The accompanying
open to allow air through the snorkel end. Depending on ambient
illustration shows the rotation sequence for each type of tire.
temperature, this may take 10 to 15 minutes. To speed up this check
3 See the information in Jacking and Towing at the front of this
you can reconnect the snorkel air duct, drive the car and then check
manual for the proper procedures to follow in raising the car and
that the door is fully open.
changing a tire; however, if the brakes are to be checked do not apply
7 If the thermo controlled air cleaner is not operating properly, see
the parking brake as stated. Make sure the tires are blocked to prevent
Chapter 6 for more information.
the car from rolling.
4 Preferably, the entire car should be raised at the same time. This
can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner of the car and then
lowering the car onto jack stands placed under the frame rails. Always 16 Engine idle speed adjustment
use four jack stands and make sure the car is firmly supported all
1 Engine idle speed is the speed at which the engine operates when
around.
no accelerator pedal pressure is applied. This speed is critical to the
5 After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary
performance of the engine itself, as well as many engine sub-systems.
and be sure to check wheel nut tightness.
2 A hand-held tachometer must be used when adjusting idle speed
to get an accurate reading. The exact hook-up for these meters varies
with the manufacturer, so follow the particular directions included.
3 Since GM used many different carburetors for their vehicles in the
time period covered by this book, and each has its own peculiarities
when setting idle speed, it would be impractical to cover all types in
this Section. Chapter 4 contains information on each individual
carburetor used. The carburetor used on your particular engine can be
found in the Specifications Section of Chapter 4. However, all vehicles
covered in this manual should have a tune-up decal in the engine
compartment, usually placed near the top of the radiator (photo). The
printed instructions for setting idle speed can be found on this decal,
and should be followed since they are for your particular engine.
4 Basically, for most applications, the idle speed is set by turning an
adjustment screw located at the side of the carburetor (photo). This
BIAS-BELTED TIRES RADIAL TIRES screw changes the linkage, in essence, depressing or letting up on your
accelerator pedal. This screw may be on the linkage itself or may be
part of the idle stop solenoid. Refer to the tune-up decal or Chapter 4.
Fig. 1.9 Tire rotation diagram (Sec 14) 5 Once you have found the idle screw, experiment with different
 46 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

2 The heat riser is a valve located inside the right side exhaust pipe,
near the junction between exhaust manifold and pipe. It can be
identified by an external weight and spring.
3 With the engine and exhaust pipe cold, try moving the weight by
hand. It should move freely.
4 Again with the engine cold, start the engine and observe the heat
riser. Upon starting, the weight should move to the closed position. As
the engine warms to normal operating temperature, the weight should
move the valve to the open position, allowing a free flow of exhaust
through the tailpipe. Since it could take several minutes for the system
to heat up, you could mark the 'cold' weight position, drive the car, and
then recheck the weight.
5 The EFE system also blocks off exhaust flow when the engine is
cold. However, this system uses more precise temperature sensors
and vacuum to open and close the exhaust pipe valve.
6 Locate the EFE actuator which is bolted to a bracket on the right
side of the engine (phpto). It will have an actuating rod attached to it
which will lead down to the valve inside the pipe. In some cases the
entire mechanism, including actuator, will be located at the exhaust
pipe-to-manifold junction.
7 With the engine cold, have an assistant start the engine as you
observe the actuating rod. It should immediately move to close off the
valve. Continue observing the rod, which should slowly open the valve
as the engine warms. This process may take some time, so you might
want to mark the position of the rod when the valve is closed, drive the
car to reach normal operating temperature, then open the hood and
check that the rod has moved to the open position.
8 Further information and testing procedures can be found in
Fig. 1.10 The heat riser valve is at the connection between the Chapter 6.
exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe (Sec 17)

Fig. 1.11 Typical ignition timing marks on the front of the engine (Sec 19)

length screwdrivers until the adjustments can be easily made, without

coming into contact with hot or moving engine components. 18 Fuel filter replacement
6 Follow the instructions on the tune-up decal or in Chapter 4,
which will probably include disconnecting certain vacuum or electrical 1 On all GM cars, the fuel filter is located inside the fuel inlet to the
connections. To plug a vacuum hose after disconnecting it, insert a carburetor (photo). It is made of pleated paper (later models) or bronze
properly-sized metal rod into the opening, or thoroughly wrap the open (early models). Neither type can be cleaned and reused.
end with tape to prevent any vacuum loss through the hose. 2 This job should be done with the engine cold (after sitting at least
7 If the air cleaner is removed, the vacuum hose to the snorkel three hours). The necessary tools are open end wrenches to fit the fuel
should be plugged. line nuts. Flare nut wrenches which wrap around the nut should be
8 Make sure the parking brake is firmly set and the wheels blocked used if available. In addition you will need to gather together the
to prevent the car from rolling. This is especially true if the trans¬ replacement filter (make sure it is for your specific vehicle and engine),
mission is to be in 'Drive'. An assistant inside the car pushing on the and clean rags.
brake pedal is the safest method. 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly. If vacuum hoses must be
9 For all applications, the engine must be completely warmed-up to disconnected, make sure you note their positions and/or tag them to
operating temperature, which will automatically render the choke fast help during the reassembly process.
idle inoperative. 4 Now follow the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the point where
it enters the carburetor. The fuel pump is located low on the engine,
at the right front, in most cases the fuel line will be metal all the way
17 EFE system (heat riser) check from the pump to the carburetor.
5 Place some rags under the fuel inlet fittings to catch any fuel as
1 The heat riser (used on some 1975 models) and the Early Fuel the fittings are disconnected.
Evaporation (EFE) system both perform the same job, but function in 6 With the proper size wrench, hold the nut immediately next to the
a slightly different manner. carburetor body. Now loosen the nut-fitting and the end of the metal
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 47

17.6 The EFE actuator is located on the right side of the engine 18.1 The fuel filter is located just inside the fuel inlet

18.8 Make sure the filter spring is properly positioned

18.6 Use 2 wrenches to loosen the fuel inlet connectors

fuel line (photo). A flare nut wrench on this fitting will help prevent
slipping and possible damage. However, an open-end wrench should
do the job. Make sure the larger nut next to the carburetor is held
firmly while the fuel line is disconnected.
7 With the fuel line disconnected, move it slightly for better access
to the inlet filter nut. Do not crimp the fuel line.
8 Now unscrew the fuel inlet filter nut which was previously held
steady. As this fitting is drawn away from the carburetor body, be
careful not to lose the thin washer-type gasket or the spring located
behind the fuel filter. Also, pay close attention to how the filter was
installed (photo).
9 Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they are ot
the same length and design. .
10 Reinstall the spring into the carburetor body, after inspecting it for
damage or defects.
11 Place the new filter into position behind the spring. If a bronze,
cone-shaped filter is used, the smaller end of the cone points away
from the carburetor. The later model paper filters will have a rubber
gasket and check valve at one end which should point away from the
carburetor (photo). , . , ,
12 Install a new washer-type gasket on the fuel inlet filter nut (a
18.11 The rubber gasket end of the paper filter should be installed
gasket is usually supplied with the new filter) and tighten the nut into
facing away from the carburetor
the carburetor. Make sure it is not cross-threaded. Tighten secure y,
but do not over-tighten, as this area can strip easily, causing ue ea s.
48 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

13 Hold the fuel inlet nut securely with a wrench while the fuel line timing is too far advanced (Before Top Dead Center). Reconnect the
is connected. Again, be careful not to cross-thread the connector. timing light and turn the distributor to move the mark 1 ° or 2° in the
Tighten securely. retard direction. Road test the car again for proper operation.
14 Plug the vacuum hose which leads to the air cleaner snorkel motor 1 7 To keep 'pinging' at a minimum, yet still allow you to operate the
so the engine can be run. car at the specified timing setting, it is advisable to use gasoline of the
15 Start the engine and check carefully for leaks. If the fuel line same octane at all times. Switching fuel brands and octane levels can
connector leaks, disconnect it using the above procedures and check decrease performance and economy, and possibly damage the engine.
for stripped or damaged threads. If the fuel line connector has stripped
threads, remove the entire line and have a repair shop install a new
fitting. If the threads look alright, purchase some thread sealing tape 20 Carburetor choke check
and tightly wrap the connector threads with the tape. Now reinstall
and tighten securely. Inlet repair kits are available at most auto parts 1 The choke only operates when the engine is cold, and thus this
stores to overcome leaking at the fuel inlet filter nut. check can only be performed before the car has been started for the
16 Reinstall the air cleaner assembly, connecting all hoses to their day.
original positions. 2 Open the hood and remove the top plate of the air cleaner
assembly. It is held in place by a wing-nut at the center. If any vacuum
hoses must be disconnected, make sure you tag the hoses for
19 Ignition timing - adjustment reinstallation to their original positions. Place the top plate and wing
nut aside, out of the way of moving engine components.
1 All vehicles are equipped with a tune-up decal inside the engine 3 Look at the top of the carburetor at the center of the air cleaner
compartment. This decal gives important ignition timing settings and housing. You will notice a flat plate at the carburetor opening (photo).
procedures to be followed specific to that vehicle. If information on the 4 Have an assistant press the accelerator pedal to the floor. The
tune-up decal supercedes the information given in this Section, the plate should close fully. Start the engine while you observe the plate
decal should be followed. at the carburetor. Do not position your face directly over the
2 At the specified intervals, whenever the contact points have been carburetor, as the engine could backfire, causing serious burns. When
replaced, the distributor removed or a change made in the fuel type, the engine starts, the choke plate should open slightly.
the ignition timing must be checked and adjusted if necessary. 5 Allow the engine to continue running at an idle speed. As the
3 Before attempting to check the timing, make sure the contact engine warms up to operating temperature, the plate should slowly
point dwell angle is correct (Section 30 1974 models only), and the open, allowing more cold air to enter through the top of the carburetor.
idle speed is as specified (Section 16). 6 After a few minutes, the choke plate should be fully open to the
4 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor and plug the vertical position.
now-open end of the hose with a rubber plug, rod or bolt of the proper 7 You will notice that the engine speed corresponds with the plate
size. Make sure the idle speed remains correct; adjust as necessary. opening. With the plate fully closed, the engine should run at a fast idle
5 Connect a timing light in accordance with the manufacturer's speed. As the plate opens, the engine speed will decrease.
instructions. Generally, the light will be connected to power and 8 If during the above checks a fault is detected, refer to Chapter 4
ground sources and to the number 1 spark plug in some fashion. The for specific information on adjusting and servicing the choke compo¬
number 1 spark plug is the first one on the right as you are facing the nents.
engine from the front.
6 Locate the numbered timing tag on the front cover of the engine.
It is just behind the lower crankshaft pulley. Clean it off with solvent 21 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve check
if necessary to read the printing and small grooves.
7 Locate the notched groove across the crankshaft pulley. It may be 1 On GM vehicles the EGR valve is located on the intake manifold,
necessary to have an assistant temporarily turn the ignition off and on adjacent to the carburetor. The majority of the time, when a fault
in short bursts without starting the engine to bring this groove into a develops in this emissions system it is due to a stuck or corroded EGR
position where it can easily be cleaned and marked. Stay clear of all valve.
moving engine components if the engine is turned over in this manner. 2 With the engine cold to prevent burns, reach under the EGR valve
8 Use white soap-stone, chalk or paint to mark the groove on the and manually push on the diaphragm (photo). Using moderate
crankshaft pulley. Also put a mark on the timing tab in accordance pressure, you should be able to press the diaphragm up and down
with the number of degrees called for in the Specifications (Chapter 5) within the housing.
or on the tune-up decal inside the engine compartment. Each peak or 3 If the diaphragm does not move or moves only with much effort,
notch on the timing tab represents 2°. The word 'Before' or the letter replace the EGR valve with a new one. If you are in doubt about the
A' indicates advance and the letter 'O' indicates Top Dead Center quality of the valve, go to your local parts store and compare the free
(TDC). Thus if your vehicle specifications call for 8° BTDC (Before Top movement of your EGR valve with a new valve.
Dead Center), you will make a mark on the timing tab 4 notches 4 Further testing of the EGR system and component replacement
'before’ the 'O'. procedures can be found in Chapter 6.
9 Check that the wiring for the timing light is clear of all moving
engine components, then start the engine.
10 Point the flashing timing light at the timing marks, again being 22 Rear axle fluid change
careful not to come in contact with moving parts. The marks you made
should appear stationary. If the marks are in alignment, the timing is 1 To change the fluid in the rear axle it is necessary to remove the
correct. If the marks are not aligned, turn off the engine. cover plate on the differential housing. Because of this, purchase a
1 1 Loosen the locknut at the base of the distributor. On GM cars this new gasket at the same time the gear lubricant is bought.
task is made much easier with a special curved distributor wrench. 2 Move a drain pan (at least 5 pint capacity), rags, newspapers and
Loosen the locknut only slightly, just enough to turn the distributor. your wrenches under the rear of the car. With the drain pan under the
(See Chapter 5 for further details, if necessary). differential cover, loosen each of the inspection plate bolts.
12 Now restart the engine and turn the distributor until the timing 3 Remove the bolts on the lower half of the plate, but use the upper
marks coincide. bolts to keep the cover loosely attached to the differential. Allow the
13 Shut off the engine and tighten the distributor locknut, being fluid to drain into the drain pan, then completely remove the cover.
careful not to move the distributor. 4 Using a lint-free rag, clean the inside of the cover and the
14 Start the engine and recheck the timing to make sure the marks accessible areas of the differential housing. As this is done, check for
are still in alignment. chipped gears or metal filings in the fluid indicating the differential
15 Disconnect the timing light, unplug the distributor vacuum hose should be thoroughly inspected and repaired (see Chapter 8 for more
and connect the hose to the distributor. information).
16 Drive the car and listen for pinging' noises. These will be most 5 Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surface on the cover and the
noticable when the engine is hot and under load (climbing a hill, differential housing. Use a gasket scraper or putty knife to remove all
accelerating from a stop). If you hear engine pinging, the ignition traces of the old gasket.
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 49

20.3 Once the air cleaner top plate has been removed, the choke plate 21.2 The EGR valve is a disc-shaped device mounted to the intake
is clearly visible manifold, next to the carburetor

6 Smear a thin film of gasket sealant on the cover flange and then indicating the spark plug should be replaced with a new one. If the side
press a new gasket into position on the cover. Make sure the bolt holes electrode is not exactly over the center one, use the notched adjuster
align properly. to align the two.
7 Place the cover on the differential housing and install the securing 6 Cover the fenders of the car to prevent damage to exterior paint.
bolts. Tighten the bolts a little at a time, working across the cover in 7 With the engine cool, remove the spark plug wire from one spark
a diagonal fashion until all bolts are tight. If a torque wrench is plug. Do this by grabbing the boot at the end of the wire, not the wire
available, tighten the bolts to the specified torque. itself. Sometimes it is necessary to use a twisting motion while the
8 Remove the inspection plug on the side of the differential housing boot and plug wire is pulled free (photo). Using a plug wire removal
(or inspection cover) and fill the housing with the proper lubricant until tool is the easiest and safest method.
the level is at the bottom of the plug hole. 8 If compressed air is available, use this to blow any dirt or foreign
material away from the spark plug area. A common bicycle pump will
9 Securely install the plug.
also work. The idea here is to eliminate the possibility of material
falling into the engine cylinder as the spark plug is replaced.
9 Now place the spark plug wrench or socket over the plug and
23 Spark plug replacement
remove it from the engine by turning in a counter-clockwise motion.
10 Compare the spark plug with those shown on page 1 69 to get an
1 The spark plugs are located on each side of the engine on a V8 and
indication of the overall running condition of the engine.
may or may not be easily accessible for removal. If the car is equipped
1 1 Insert one of the new plugs into the engine, tightening it as much
with air conditioning or power steering, some of the plugs may be
as possible by hand. The spark plug should screw easily into the
tricky to service in which case special extension or swivel tools will be
engine. If it doesn't, change the angle of the spark plug slightly, as
necessary. Make a survey under the hood to ascertain if special tools
chances are the threads are not matched (cross-threaded).
will be needed.
12 Firmly tighten the spark plug with the wrench or socket. It is best
2 In most cases the tools necessary for a spark plug replacement job
to use a torque wrench for this to ensure the plug is seated correctly.
are: a plug wrench or spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet
The correct torque figure is shown in Specifications.
wrench (this special socket will be insulated inside to protect the
13 Before pushing the spark plug wire onto the end of the plug,
porcelain insulator) and a feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark
inspect it following the procedures outlined in Section 28.
plug gap. If the car is equipped with HEI ignition (1975-1980), a
14 Install the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting
special spark plug wire removal tool is available for separating the wire
motion on the boot until it is firmly seated on the spark plug. Make
boot from the spark plug. sure wire is routed away from the hot exhaust manifold.
3 The best policy to follow when replacing the spark plugs is to
15 Follow the above procedures for the remaining spark plugs,
purchase the new spark plugs beforehand, adjust them to the proper
replacing each one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.
gap and then replace each plug one at a time. When buying the new
spark plugs it is important that the correct plug is purchased for your
specific engine. This information can be found in the Specifications
24 Wheel bearing check and repack
Section of Chapter 5, but should be checked against the information
found on the tune-up decal located under the hood of your car or in the
1 In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing
factory owner's manual. If differences exist between these sources,
until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be
purchase the spark plug type specified on the tune-up decal as this
checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason.
information was printed for your specific engine. 2 With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel
4 With the new spark plugs at hand, allow the engine to thoroughly
and check for noise, rolling resistance or free play. Now grab the top
cool before attempting the removal. During this cooling time, each o
of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other.
the new spark plugs can be inspected for defects and the gap can be
Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005
checked in, the bearings should be checked, then repacked with grease or
5 The gap is checked by inserting the proper thickness gauge
replaced if necessary.
between the electrodes at the tip of the plug. The gap between these
3 To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by
electrodes should be the same as that given in the Specifications or on
removing the hub cap and wheel.
the tune-up decal. The wire should just touch each of the eletrodes. it
4 Using an Allen wrench of the proper size, remove the two bolts
the gap is incorrect, use the notched adjuster on the feeler gauge body
which secure the disc brake caliper to its support (see Chapter 9).
to bend the curved side electrode slightly until the proper gap is
5 Fabricate a wood block (1^ inch by 1^ inch by 2 inches in length)
achieved. Also at this time check for cracks in the spark plug body,
23.7 When removing spark plug wires, grasp the boot - never the wire 24.11 Use a screwdriver to pry out the grease seal for the inner
bearing

24.21 The adjusting nut should be tightened only initially with a 25.8 Dropping the rear of the transmission oil pan to drain the fluid
wrench

25.12 Inspect the inside of the pan for metal filings and other grit 25.14 Installing the new filter
(clean the pan before reinstalling it)
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 51

which will be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. later.
Carefully slide the caliper off the disc and insert the wood block 23 Put a little grease outboard of the outer bearing to provide extra
between the pads. Use wire to hang the caliper assembly out of the grease availability.
way. Be careful not to kink or damage the brake hose. 24 Now check that the spindle nut is still tight (12 ft-lbs).
6 Pry the hub grease cap off the hub using a screwdriver. This cap 25 Loosen the spindle nut until it is just loose, no more.
is located at the center of the hub. 26 Using your hand (not a wrench of any kind), tighten the nut until
7 Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter it is snug. Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and
pin and then pull the cotter pin out of the locking nut. Discard the spindle nut. If the nut slits do not line up, loosen the nut slightly until
cotter pin, as a new one should be used on reassembly. they do. From the hand-tight position the nut should not be loosened
8 Remove the spindle nut and its washer from the end of the any more than one-half flat to install the cotter pin.
spindle. 27 Bend the ends of the new cotter pin until they are flat against the
9 Pull the hub assembly outward slightly and then push it back into nut. Cut off any extra length which could interfere with the dust cap.
its original position. This should force the outer bearing off the spindle 28 Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a rubber mallet.
enough so that it can be removed with your fingers. Remove the outer 29 Place the brake caliper near the rotor and carefully remove the
bearing, noting how it is installed on the end of the spindle. wood block spacers. Slide the caliper over the rotor. Tighten the caliper
10 Now the hub assembly can be pulled off the spindle. mounting bolts to the specified torque. Chapter 9 will give full details
11 On the rear side of the hub, use a screwdriver to pry out the inner on the disc brake caliper assembly.
bearing lip seal (photo). As this is done, note the direction in which the 30 Install the tire/wheel assembly to the hub and tighten the
seal is installed. mounting nuts.
12 The inner bearing can now be removed from the hub, again noting 31 Grab the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings in the
how it is installed. same manner as described at the beginning of this Section.
13 Use clean parts solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from 32 Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the wheel nuts.
the bearings, hub and spindle. A small brush may prove useful; Install the hub cap, using a rubber mallet to fully seat it.
however, make sure no bristles from the brush embed themselves
inside the bearing rollers. Allow the parts to air dry.
14 Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, bent 25 Automatic transmission fluid change
rollers, etc. Check the bearing races inside the hub for cracks, scoring
or uneven surfaces. If the bearing races are in need of replacement, 1 At the specified time intervals, the transmission fluid should be
this job is best left to a repair shop which can press the new races into changed and the filter replaced with a new one. Since there is no drain
position. plug, the transmission oil pan must be removed from the bottom of the
1 5 Use an approved high temperature front wheel bearing grease to transmission to drain the fluid.
pack the bearings. Work the grease fully into the bearings, forcing the 2 Before any draining, purchase the specified transmission fluid (see
grease between the rollers, cone and cage. Recommended Lubricants and a new filter. The necessary gaskets
16 Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, should be included with the filter; if not, purchase an oil pan gasket
inner bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. and a strainer-to-valve body gasket.
17 Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside 3 Other tools necessary for this job include: jack stands to support
the hub. Using your finger, form a dam at these points to provide extra the vehicle in a raised position; wrench to remove the oil pan bolts;
grease availability and to keep thinned grease from flowing out of the standard screwdriver; drain pan capable of holding at least 8 pints;
bearing. newspapers and clean rags.
18 Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and 4 The fluid should be drained immediately after the car has been
driven. This will remove any built-up sediment better than if the fluid
put a little more grease outboard of the bearing.
were cold. Because of this, it may be wise to wear protective gloves
19 Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap the seal with a flat
(fluid temperature can exceed 350° in a hot transmission).
plate and a hammer until it is flush with the hub.
5 After the car has been driven to warm up the fluid, raise the
20 Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the
vehicle and place it on jack stands for access underneath. Make sure
grease-packed outer bearing into position.
it is firmly supported by the four stands placed on the frame rails.
21 Install the washer and spindle nut. Tighten the nut only slightly (12
6 Move the necessary equipment under the car, being careful not to
ft-lbs of torque) (photo).
22 In a forward direction, spin the hub to seat the bearings and touch any of the hot exhaust components.
7 Place the drain pan under the transmission oil pan and remove the
remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive bearing play

Fig. 1.12 Front wheel bearing arrangement (Sec 24)

 52 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

oil pan bolts along the rear and sides of the pan. Loosen, but do not 21 Depress the brake pedal and shift the transmission through each
remove, the bolts at the front of the pan. gear. Place the selector back into 'Park' and check the level on the
8 Carefully pry the pan downward at the rear, allowing the hot fluid dipstick (with the engine still idling). Look under the car for leaks
to drain into the drain pan (photo). If necessary, use a screwdriver to around the transmission oil pan mating surface.
break the gasket seal at the rear of the pan; however, do not damage 22 Add more fluid through the dipstick tube until the level on the
the pan or transmission in the process. dipstick is \ inch below the 'Add' mark on the dipstick. Do not allow
9 Support the pan and remove the remaining bolts at the front of the the fluid level to go above this point, as the transmission would then
pan. Lower the pan and drain the remaining fluid into the drain be overfull, necessitating the removal of the pan to drain the excess
receptacle. As this is done, check the fluid for metal filings which may fluid.
be an indication of internal failure. 23 Push the dipstick firmly back into its tube and drive the car to
10 Now visible on the bottom of the transmission is the filter/strainer reach normal operating temperature (1 5 miles of highway driving or its
held in place by two screws. equivalent in the city). Park the car on a level surface and check the
1 1 Remove the two screws, the filter and its gasket. fluid level on the dipstick with the engine idling and the transmission
12 Thoroughly clean the transmission oil pan with solvent. Inspect for in Park'. The level should now be at the Full Hot' mark on the dipstick.
metal filings or foreign matter (photo). Dry with compressed air if If not, add more fluid as necessary to bring the level up to this point.
available. It is important that all remaining gasket material be removed Again, do not overfill.
from the oil pan mounting flange. Use a gasket scraper or putty knife
for this.
13 Clean the filter mounting surface on the valve body. Again, this
surface should be smooth and free of any leftover gasket material. 26 Brakes check
14 Place the new filter into position, with a new gasket between it
and the transmission valve body. Install the two mounting screws and 1 The brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are
tighten securely (photo). removed or whenever a fault is suspected. Indications of a potential
15 Apply a bead of gasket sealant around the oil pan mounting braking system fault are: the car pulls to one side when brake pedal is
surface, with the sealant to the inside of the bolt holes. Press the new depressed; noises coming from the brakes when they are applied;
gasket into place on the pan, making sure all bolt holes line up. excessive brake pedal travel; pulsating pedal; and leakage of fluid,
1 6 Lift the pan up to the bottom of the transmission and install the usually seen on the inside of the tire or wheel.
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts in a diagonal fashion, working
around the pan. Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the Disc brakes
specified torque. 2 Disc brakes can be visually checked without the need to remove
1 7 Lower the car off its jack stands. any parts except the wheels.
18 Open the hood and remove the transmission fluid dipstick from its 3 Raise the vehicle and place securely on jack stands. Remove the
guide tube. front wheels (See Jacking and Towing at the front of this manual if
19 Since fluid capacities vary between the various transmission necessary).
types, it is best to add a little fluid at a time, continually checking the 4 Now visible is the disc brake caliper which contains the pads.
level with the dipstick. Allow the fluid time to drain into the pan. Add There is an outer brake pad and an inner pad. Both should be
fluid until the level just registers on the end of the dipstick. In most inspected.
cases, a good starting point will be 4 to 5 pints added to the 5 Most later model vehicles come equipped with a 'wear sensor'
transmission through the filler tube (use a funnel to prevent spills). attached to the inner pad. This is a small, bent piece of metal which is
20 With the selector lever in Park', apply the parking brake and start visible from the inboard side of the brake caliper. When the pads wear
the engine without depressing the accelerator pedal (if possible). Do to a danger limit, the metal sensor rubs against the disc and makes a
not race the engine at a high speed; run at slow idle only. screeching sound.
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 53

26.13 Use a hammer and cold chisel to remove the lanced knock-out 26.1 6 Check that all springs are in good condition
plug on the face of the drum

26.1 7 Leaks often occur at the wheel cylinder located at the top of the 26.1 9 Inspect the inside surface of the drum for scoring, hot spots,
cracks, etc
brake shoe junction

12 Mark the hub so it can be reinstalled in the same place. Use a

6 Inspect the pad thickness by looking at each end of the caliper and
scribe, chalk, etc. on drum and center hub and backing plate.
through the cut-out inspection hole in the caliper body. IMhe wear
13 Pull the brake drum off the axle and brake assembly. If this proves
sensor clip is very close to the rotor, or the lining material is 55 in or less
difficult, make sure the parking brake is released, then squirt some
in thickness, the pads should be replaced. Keep in mind that the lining
penetrating oil around the center hub area. Allow the oil to soak in and
material is riveted or bonded to a metal backing shoe and the metal
try again to pull the drum off. Then, if the drum cannot be pulled off,
portion is not included in this measuring.
the brake shoes will have to be adjusted inward. This is done by first
7 Since it will be difficult, if not impossible, to measure the exact
removing the lanced cutout in the drum or backing plate with a
thickness of the remaining lining material, if you are in doubt as to the
hammer and chisel (photo). With this lanced area punched in, rotate
pad quality, remove the pads for further inspection or replacement.
the drum until the opening lines up with the adjuster wheel. Pull the
See Chapter 9 for disc brake pad replacement.
lever off the sprocket and then use a small screwdriver to turn the
8 Before installing the wheels, check for any leakage around the
sprocket wheel which will move the linings away from the drums.
brake hose connections leading to the caliper or damage (cracking,
14 With the drum removed, carefully brush away any accumulations
splitting, etc.) to the brake hose. Replace the hose or fittings as
of dirt and dust. Do not blow this out with compressed air or in any
necessary, referring to Chapter 9. . similar fashion. Make an effort not to inhale this dust as it contains
9 Also check the condition of the disc for scoring, gouging or urn
asbestos and is harmful to your health.
spots. If these conditions exist, the hub/rotor assembly should be
1 5 Observe the thickness of the lining material on both the front and
removed for servicing (Chapter 9). rear brake shoes. If the material has worn away to within 3^ in of the
recessed rivets or metal backing, the shoes should be replaced. If the
Drum brakes (rear) , . linings look worn, but you are unable to determine their exact
10 Raise the vehicle and support firmly on jack stands Block the thickness, compare them with a new set at the auto parts store. The
front tires to prevent the car from rolling; however, o no app y shoes should also be replaced if they are cracked, glazed (shiny
parking brake as this will lock the drums into place. surface), or wet with brake fluid.
11 Remove the wheels, referring to Jacking and Towing at the front
16 Check that all the brake assembly springs are connected and in
of this manual if necessary.
 54 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

ADJUSTER 28 Spark plug wires check

LEVER

1 The spark plug wires should be checked at the recommended

intervals or whenever new spark plugs are installed.
2 The wires should be inspected one at a time to prevent mixing up
the order which is essential for proper engine operation.
3 Disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug. A removal tool can
be used for this, or you can grab the rubber boot, twist slightly and
SPROCKET then pull the wire free. Do not pull on the wire itself, only on the rubber
SCREW
boot.
DRIVER
4 Inspect inside the boot for corrosion which will look like a white,
BRAKE crusty powder. Later models use a conductive white grease which
DRUM should not be mistaken for corrosion.
5 Now push the wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug.
It should be a tight fit on the plug end. If not, remove the wire and use
a pair of pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the wire
boot until the fit is secure.
6 Now using a clean rag, clean the wire its entire length. Remove all
Fig. 1.15 Use a screwdriver and a wire hook (through the access built-up dirt and grease. As this is done, inspect for burns, cracks or
hole) to retract the brake shoes (Sec 26) any other form of damage. Bend the wires in several places to ensure
the conductive inside wire has not hardened.
good condition (photo). 7 Disconnect the wire at the distributor (again, pulling and twisting
17 Check the brake components for any signs of fluid leakage. With only on the rubber boot). Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the same
your finger, carefully pry back the rubber cups on the wheel cylinder manner as the spark plug end. If equipped with HEI ignition (1975 and
located at the top of the brake shoes (photo). Any leakage is an later), the distributor boots are connected to a circular retaining ring.
indication that the wheel cylinders should be overhauled immediately Release the locking tabs, turn the ring upside-down and check all wire
(Chapter 9). Also check fluid hoses and connections for signs of boots at the same time.
leakage.
8 Reinstall the wire boot (or retaining ring) onto the top of the
18 Wipe the inside of the drum with a clean rag, and denatured distributor.
alcohol. Again, be careful not to breathe the dangerous asbestos dust. 9 Check the remaining spark plug wires in the same way, making
19 Check the inside of the drum for cracks, scores, deep scratches or sure they are securely fastened at the distributor and spark plug.
'hard spots' which will appear as small discolorations (photo). If these 10 A visual check of the spark plug wires can also be made. In a
imperfections cannot be removed with fine emery cloth, the drum darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation), start the engine and
must be taken to a machine shop equipped to turn the drums. observe each plug wire. Be careful not to come into contact with any
20 If after the inspection process all parts are in good working moving engine parts. If there is a break or fault in the wire, you will be
condition, reinstall the brake drum (using a metal plug if the lanced able to see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area.
knock-out was removed). Install the wheel and lower the car to the 11 If it is decided the spark plug wires are in need of replacement,
ground.
purchase a new set for your specific engine model. Wire sets can be
purchased which are pre-cut to the proper size and with the rubber
Parking brake boots already installed. HEI ignition systems (1975-1980) use a
21 The easiest way to check the operation of the parking brake is to different type of plug wire from conventional systems. Remove and
park the car on a steep hill, with the parking brake set and the replace each wire individually to prevent mix-ups in the firing se¬
transmission in Neutral'. If the parking brake cannot prevent the car quence.
from rolling, it is in need of adjustment (see Chapter 9).

29 Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling)

27 Carburetor mounting torque 1 Periodically, the cooling system should be drained, flushed and
refilled. This is to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent rust and
1 The carburetor is attached to the top of the intake manifold by four corrosion which can impair the performance of the cooling system and
nuts. These fasteners can sometimes work loose through normal ultimately cause engine damage.
engine operation and cause a vacuum leak. 2 At the same time the cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the
2 To properly tighten the carburetor mounting nuts, a torque wrench fill cap should be inspected and replaced if faulty (see Section 6).
is necessary. If you do not own one, they can usually be rented on a 3 As antifreeze is a poisonous solution, take care not to spill any of
daily basis. the cooling mixture on the vehicle's paint or your own skin. If this
3 Remove the air cleaner assembly, tagging each hose to be happens, rinse immediately with plenty of clear water. Also, it is
disconnected with a piece of numbered tape to make reassembly advisable to consult your local authorities about the dumping of
easier. antifreeze before draining the cooling system. In many areas recla¬
4 Locate the mounting nuts at the base of the carburetor. Decide mation centers have been set up to collect automobile oil and drained
what special tools or adapters will be necessary, if any, to tighten the antifreeze/water mixtures rather than allowing these liquids to be
nuts with a properly sized socket and the torque wrench. added to the sewage and water facilities.
5 Tighten the nuts to a torque of about 12 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten 4 With the engine cold, remove the radiator pressure fill cap.
the nuts, as this may cause the threads to strip. 5 Move a large container under the radiator to catch the
6 If you suspect a vacuum leak exists at the bottom of the water/antifreeze mixture as it is drained.
carburetor, get a length of spare hose about the diameter of fuel hose. 6 Drain the radiator. Most models are equipped with a drain plug at
Start the engine and place one end of the hose next to your ear as you the bottom of the radiator which can be opened using a wrench to hold
probe around the base of the carburetor with the other end. You will the fitting while the petcock is turned to the open position. If this drain
be able to hear a hissing sound if a leak exists. A soapy water solution has excessive corrosion and cannot be turned easily, or the radiator is
brushed around the suspect area can also be used to pinpoint pressure not equipped with a drain, disconnect the lower radiator hose to allow
leaks. the coolant to drain. Be careful that none of the solution is splashed on
7 If, after the nuts are properly tightened, a vacuum leak still exists, your skin or in your eyes.
the carburetor must be removed and a new gasket used. See Chapter 7 If accessible, remove the two engine drain plugs (photo). There is
4 for more information. one plug on each side of the engine, about halfway back and on the
8 After tightening nuts, reinstall the air cleaner, connecting all hoses lower edge near the oil pan rail. These will allow the coolant to drain
to their original positions. from the engine itself.
29.7 Engine drain plugs are located on each 30.6 The rotor is attached to the 30.8 Loosen the 2 screws that secure the
side of the engine block counterweights with 2 screws (remove the contact point assembly to the mounting plate
screws and lift off the rotor) (1974)

30.1 1 The condenser is held in place by a 30.19 With the points separated, insert the
30.9 Disconnect the primary wires from the
single screw proper feeler gauge between them and turn the
points (1974)
adjusting screw (1974)

30.23 Check the distributor cap contacts for 30.31 With the inspection window open, the
30.21 Inspect the rotor contacts for scorching,
wear and deposits point dwell can be adjusted with an Allen
pitting or wear wrench (1974)

31.5 Remove the filter from the canister 31.6 Make sure the new filter is properly
31.4 The charcoal canister is located near the seated around canister surface
front of the engine compartment (note the bottom
hoses attached to the top)
 56 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

8 On systems with an expansion reservoir, disconnect the overflow be loosened, but not removed) a small standard screw, or by a quick-
pipe and remove the reservoir. Flush it out with clean water. disconnect terminal which rquires the tangs to be pressed together to
9 Place a cold water hose (a common garden hose is fine) in the un-lock.
radiator filler neck at the top of the radiator and flush the system until 10 The contact breaker point assembly can now be removed com¬
the water runs clean at all drain points. pletely from the engine compartment.
10 In severe cases of contamination or clogging of the radiator, 1 1 The condenser can now be removed from the breaker plate.
remove it (see Chapter 3) and reverse flush it. This involves simply Loosen the mounting strap screw and slide the condenser out of the
inserting the cold pressure hose in the bottom radiator outlet to allow bracket, or completely remove the condenser and strap depending on
the clear water to run against the normal flow, draining through the the exact attachment (photo).
top. A radiator repair shop should be consulted if further cleaning or 12 Before installing the new points and condenser, clean all lubricant,
repair is necessary. dirt, etc. from the breaker plate and the rotating cam surface of the
1 1 Where the coolant is regularly drained and the system refilled with distributor shaft.
the correct antifreeze/inhibitor mixture there should be no need to 13 Fully lubricate the center cam with the grease supplied with the
employ chemical cleaners or descalers. new points.
12 To refill the system, reconnect the radiator hoses and install the 14 Check the cam lubricator wick mounted on the breaker plate. The
drain plugs securely in the engine. Special thread sealing tape wick can be rotated to provide lubrication if it is still in good condition,
(available at auto parts stores) should be used on the drain plugs going but if in doubt replace the wick with a new one to provide adequate
into the engine block. Install the expansion reservoir and the overflow lubrication to the cam surface. It is removed by squeezing the base of
hose where applicable. the retainer together with long-nosed pliers and then lifting the unit
13 On vehicles without an expansion reservoir, refill the system out of the breaker plate. It is important that the cam lubricator wick be
through the radiator filler cap until the water level is about three inches adjusted so the end of the wick just touches the cam lobes.
below the filler neck. 1 5 Place the new condenser into position and tighten its retaining
14 On vehicles with an expansion reservoir, fill the radiator to the screw.
base of the filler neck and then add more coolant to the expansion 16 Slide the new contact point set onto the breaker plate and tighten
reservoir so that it reaches the 'FULL COLD' mark. the two attaching screws.
1 5 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached and 17 Connect the primary and condenser electrical leads to the new
with the engine idling, add coolant up to the correct level (see Section point assembly. Make sure the leads are postioned the same as they
2), then fit the radiator cap so that the arrows are in alignment with the were on removal.
overflow pipe. Install the reservoir cap. 18 Although the final gap between the contact points will be adjusted
16 Always refill the system with a mixture of high quality antifreeze later (dwell angle), it is best to get an initial gap to start the engine.
and water in the proportion called for on the antifreeze container or in With the points in position and tightened to the breaker plate, see that
your owner's manual. Chapter 3 also contains information on anti¬ the points rubbing block is resting on one of the high points of the
freeze mixtures. center cam. To move the center cam, have an assistant just click the
1 7 Keep a close watch on the coolant level and the various cooling ignition key in short bursts. If equipped with a manual transmission,
hoses during the first few miles of driving. Tighten the hose clamps place the shifter in gear and rock the car back and forth.
and/or add more coolant mixture as necessary. 19 With the rubbing block on a cam high point (points fully open),
place a blade-type feeler gauge between the contacts. The gap should
be 0.01 6 in. If not correct, use an Allen wrench to turn the points set
socket which will open and close the gap (photo).
30 Point replacement, dwell angle adjustment and distributor 20 Install the RFI shield, if applicable.
check (1974 models only) 21 Before installing the rotor, inspect it for cracks or damage.
Carefully check the condition of the metal contact at the top of the
1 Although the contact points can be cleaned and dressed with a rotor for excessive burning or pitting (photo). If in doubt as to its
fine-cut contact file, it may be a false economy for the home mechanic quality, replace it with a new one.
to attempt this. Due to the inaccessibility of the distributor compo¬ 22 Install the rotor. Both types are keyed to go onto the shaft only
nents, it is more practical to merely replace the contact points during one way. Rotors having attaching screws will have raised pegs on the
tune-ups. bottom. Make sure the rotor is firmly seated.
2 The contact point set and condenser are replaced as one complete 23 Before installing the distributor cap, inspect it for cracks or
assembly. Point alignment and spring tension are factory set and damage. Closely examine the contacts on the inside of the cap for
require no further adjustment. excessive corrosion or damage (photo). Slight scoring is normal. If in
3 Whenever distributor servicing is required, as in contact point doubt as to the quality of the cap, replace it with a new one as
replacement, it is a good idea to use magnetized tools to prevent described in Chapter 5.
screws or nuts from falling down into the distributor body, requiring 24 Install the distributor cap, locking the two latches under the
distributor disassembly to retrieve. distributor body.
25 Start the engine and check the dwell angle and the ignition timing
Contact point replacement (Section 19).
4 Remove the distributor cap by placing a screwdriver on the slotted
head of the latch. Press down on the latch and give a -j- turn to release
the curved section at the bottom of the latch. Point dwell angle adjustment
5 With both latches disengaged from the distributor body, place the 26 Whenever new contact points are installed or original points are
cap (with the spark plug wires still attached) out of the way. Use a cleaned, the dwell angle should be checked and adjusted to proper
length of wire or tape if necessary. specifications.
6 Remove the rotor, which is now visible at the top of the distributor 27 Setting the dwell angle on GM cars is actually very easy; however,
shaft. In most cases the rotor is held in place with two screws. On a dwell meter must be used for precise adjustment. Combination
some models, the rotor is merely pushed onto the shaft and can simply tach/dwell meters are common tune-up instruments which can be
be lifted away. Place the rotor in a safe place where it cannot be purchased at a reasonable cost. An approximate setting can be
damaged (photo). achieved without a meter.
7 If equipped with a radio frequency interference shield (RFI), 28 Connect the dwell meter following the manufacturer's instruc¬
remove the attaching screws and the two-piece shield to gain access tions.
to the contact points. 29 Start the engine and allow to run at idle until it has reached normal
8 Loosen the two screws which secure the contact point set operating temperature. The engine must be fully warmed to achieve an
assembly to the breaker plate (photo). Do not completely remove accurate reading. Turn off the engine.
these screws, as most point sets have slots at these locations. Slide 30 Raise the metal 'window' on the outside of the distributor cap.
the point set off the breaker plate. Prop it in the up position, using tape if necessary.
9 Disconnect the primary and condenser wire leads at the point set 31 Just inside this window is the adjustment screw for the contact
(photo). These wires may be attached with a small nut (which should points. Insert an Allen wrench of the proper size into the adjustment
 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 57

screw socket (photo).

32 Start the engine and turn the adjusting screw as required to obtain 31 Evaporative Control System (ECS) filter replacement
the specified dwell reading on the meter. Dwell angle specifications
are given at the beginning of Chapter 5 as well as on the tune-up decal 1 The function of the ECS emissions system is to draw fuel vapors
located inside your engine compartment. If there is a discrepancy from the tank and carburetor, store them in a charcoal canister, and
between the sources, assume the tune-up decal is correct. Remove then burn these fumes during normal engine operation.
your hand from the Allen wrench and recheck the reading. 2 The filter at the bottom of the charcoal canister should be replaced
33 Remove the Allen wrench and close the window fully. Turn off the at the specified intervals. If, however, a fuel odor is detected, the
engine and disconnect the dwell meter. canister, filter and system hoses should immediately be inspected for
34 If you simply cannot buy, borrow or rent a dwell meter, you can fault.
3 To replace the filter, locate the canister at the front of the engine
get an approximate dwell setting without using a meter by the
compartment. It will have between 3 and 6 hoses running out the top
following method. of it.
35 Start the engine and allow to idle until it has reached normal 4 Remove the two bolts which secure the bottom of the canister to
operating temperature. the body sheet metal (photo).
36 Raise the metal window on the side of the distributor cap and 5 Turn the canister upside-down and pull the old filter from the
bottom of the canister (photo). If you cannot turn the canister enough
insert the proper size Allen wrench into the point adjustment screw
for this due to the short length of the hoses, the hoses must be duly
socket.
marked with pieces of tape and then disconnected from the top.
37 Turn the Allen wrench clockwise until the engine begins to misfire. 6 Push the new filter into the bottom of the canister, making sure it
Then turn the screw one half turn counter-clockwise. is seated all the way around (photo).
38 Remove the Allen wrench and fully close the window. As soon as 7 Place the canister back into position and tighten the two mounting
possible have the dwell angle checked and/or adjusted with a dwell bolts. Connect the various hoses if disconnected.
meter. This will ensure optimum performance. 8 The ECS system is explained in more detail in Chapter 6.
Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine
Contents

Camshaft - removal and installation. 30 Engine start-up after major repair or overhaul. 48
Camshaft and bearings - inspection and servicing. 31 Engine/transmission removed - separation and reconnection. 6
Connecting rod side clearance - checking. 44 Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation. 13
Crankcase front cover - removal and installation. 28 Flywheel - removal and installation. 33
Crankshaft and bearings - inspection and servicing. 39 Flywheel and starter ring gear - inspection. 34
Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals - installation. 45 General description and engine identification. 1
Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals - removal. 35 Intake manifold - removal and installation. 12
Cylinder block - inspection. 37
Main bearings and rod bearings - checking clearances. 43
Cylinder heads - assembly. 19 Oil pan - removal and installation. 23
Cylinder heads - cleaning. 16 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation (except Buick
Cylinder heads - dismantling. 15 engines). 25
Cylinder heads - inspection. 17
Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation (1974 - 1977
Cylinder heads - installation. 21 Buick engines). 24
Cylinder heads - removal. 14
Oil seal (front cover) - replacement. 27
Engine - dismantling (general). 10 Piston and connecting rod assemblies - cleaning and
Engine - final assembling and pre-oiling after overhaul. 47 inspection. 40
Engine - installation (with transmission). 8 Pistons and piston rings — reassembly. 4
Engine - installation (without transmission). 7 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - installation. 46
Engine - major overhaul dismantling sequence. 1 1 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - removal. 32
Engine - rebuilding alternatives. 38 Rear main oil seal - replacement (engine in car). 36
Engine - removal and installation methods and precautions. 3 Timing chain and sprockets - removal and installation. 29
Engine - removal (with transmission). 5 Torsional damper - removal and installation. 26
Engine - removal (without transmission). 4 Valve lash - adjustment. 22
Engine assembly - general information. 42 Valve lifters - removal, inspection and installation. 20
Engine mounts - replacement with engine in vehicle. 9 Valves and valve seats - inspection and valve grinding. 18
Engine repair operations - general notes. 2

Specifications

1974 through 1978 Buick 350 CID and 455 CID V8 engines (VIN codes H,
All dimensions in inches unless otherwise noted
General
Bore and stroke
350.

Compression ratio
1974 .
1975 .
1 976 through 1 978 .
Firing order.
Cylinder numbers
Right bank, front to rear.
Left bank, front to rear.
Pistons and pistons rings
Clearance in cylinder
350.

Pin diameter
350.

Pin length
350
1974 through 1977 .
1978 . 0 900

Pin press fit in rod

350.
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 59

Piston ring end gap (350)

No. 1 . 0.010 to 0.020
No. 2. 0.010 to 0.020
Piston ring end gap (455)
No. 1 . 0.013 to 0.023
2. 0.013 to 0.023
Oil ring end gap (all). 0.015 to 0.035
Connecting rods
Bearing length
350
1974 through 1977 . 0.737
1978 . 0.654
455 . 0.820
Bearing oil clearance
1974. 0.0002 to 0.0023
1 975 through 1978 . 0.0005 to 0.0026
Rod end play (total for two)
1974
350. 0.006 to 0.020
455 . 0.005 to 0.019
1975 through 1978 . 0.006 to 0.027
Valves
Valve lifter mechanism. Hydraulic
Diameter of head
Intake
350. 1.880 to 1.870
455 . 2.005 to 1.995
Exhaust (1974)
1.505 to 1.495
350.
1.625
455.
Exhaust (1975 through 1978) 1.555 to 1.545
Diameter of stem
0.3730 to 0.3720
Intake .
0.3723 to 0.3730
Exhaust.
Valve seat angle
45°
Intake .
45°
Exhaust.
Crankshaft
Main bearing journal diameter
3.0000
350.
3.2500
455.
Crankpin journal diameter
2.0000
350.
2.249 to 2.250
455 .
Main bearing-to-journal clearance
0.0004 to 0.001 5
350.
0.0007 to 0.0018
455 .
0.003 to 0.009
End play.
Camshaft
1.785 to 1.786
Journal diameter (all).
Journal-to-bearing clearance
0.0005 to 0.0025
No. 1 . 0.0005 to 0.0035
Nos. 2, 3, 4 and 5.
Oil pump pressure 37 lbs ® 2600 rpm
350. 40 lbs ® 2400 rpm
455 .
ft-lb
Torque specifications
15
Carburetor-to-intake manifold.
Connecting rod nuts 40
350. 45
455 .
Main bearing cap bolts 115
1 974 through 1 976 . 100
1977 and 1978 .
Cylinder head bolts 80
350. 100
455 . 13
Distributor hold down clamp.
Exhaust manifold-to-head 28
1974 through 1976 . 25
1977 and 1978 . 20
Fan pulley.
Fan pulley-to-harmonic balancer 23
1 974 through 1976 . 20
1977 and 1978.
60 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

Filter assembly-to-pump cover

1974 through 1976 . 13
1977 and 1978 . 20
Flywheel-to-crankshaft. 60
Fuel pump mounting bolts. 20
Flarmonic balancer-to-crankshaft
350
1974 through 1976 . 150
1977 . 175
1978 . 225
455 . 200
Intake manifold-to-head. 45
Motor mount-to-block
1974 through 1976 . 63
1977 and 1978 . 55
Oil gallery plugs. 25
Oil pan-to-block. 14
Oil pan drain plug. 30
Oil pressure switch-to-block. 23
Oil pump cover-to-timing chain cover. 10
Oil pump pressure regulator retainer. 35
Rocker arm cover-to-head. 4
Rocker arm shaft-to-head. 30
Starter motor-to-block. 35
Thermostat housing-to-intake manifold. 20
Timing chain cover-to-block. 29
Water pump cover-to-timing chain cover. 7

1977 through 1980 Chevrolet 305 CID and 350 CID V8 engines (VIN codes L, U, H)
All dimensions in inches unless otherwise noted
General
Bore and stroke
305. 3.736 x 3.480
350. 4.000 x 3.480
Compression ratio (all). 8.5:1
Firing order. 1- 8—4—3—6—5-7—2
Cylinder numbers
Right bank, front to rear 2- 4-6-8
Left bank, front to rear.. 1-3-5-7

Pistons and piston rings

Clearance in cylinder. 0.0027 max
Ring-to-groove side clearance
Top ring
1977 and 1978 . 0.0012 to 0.0042
1979 and 1980. 0.0012 to 0.0032
2nd ring
1977 and 1978 . 0.0012 to 0.0042
1979 . 0.0012 to 0.0027
1980 . 0.0012 to 0.0032
Oil control ring (all). 0.005 max
Ring end gap
Top ring (all)
1977/1978/1980. 0.010 to 0.030
1979 . 0.010 to 0.020
2nd ring (305)
1977/1978/1980. 0.010 to 0.035
1979 . 0.010 to 0.025
2nd ring (350)
1977/1978/1980. 0.013 to 0.035
1979 . 0.013 to 0.025
Oil control ring (all)
1977 and 1978 . 0.015 to 0.065
1979 . 0.015 to 0.055
1980 . 0.010 to 0.035
Piston pin diameter (all). 0.9270 to 0.9273
Pin clearance in piston. 0.0025 to 0.0010
Pin interference fit in rod. 0.0008 to 0.0016

Crankshaft
Main journal diameters
No. 1 . 2.4484 to 2.4493
Nos. 2, 3, 4. 2.4481 to 2.4490
No. 5. 2.4479 to 2.4488
Journal taper. 0.001 max
Journal out-of-round. 0.001 max
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 61

Main bearing oil clearance

No. 1 . 0.0015
Nos. 2, 3, 4. 0.0025
No. 5. 0.0035
Crankpin diameter
1977 through 197. 2.099 to 2.100
1980. 2.0986 to 2.0998
Crankpin taper. 0.001 max
Crankpin out-of-round. 0.001 max
Rod bearing oil clearance. 0.0035 max
Rod side clearance
1977 through 1979. 0.008 to 0.014
1980. 0.006 to 0.014
Crankshaft endplay. 0.002 to 0.006
Camshaft
Lobe lift (intake)
305. 0.2485
350. 0.2600
Lobe lift (exhaust). 0.2733
Camshaft journal diameter. 1.8682 to 1.8692
Camshaft runout. 0.0015 max
Camshaft endplay. 0.004 to 0.014
Valves
Valve lifter mechanism. Hydraulic
Valve lash. i turn down from zero
Valve face angle. 45°
Valve seat angle. 46°
Valve seat width
Intake. a t0 re
Exhaust. re t0 s
Valve seat runout. 0.002 max
Valve stem-to-guide clearance
Intake. 0.0010 to 0.0037
Exhaust. 0.0010 to 0.0047
Valve spring free length
Intake. 2.030
Exhaust. 1-910
Installed spring height. 1 a
Damper free length. 1.860
Torque specifications h-lb
Front cover. 7
Flywheel housing cover.. 7
Oil filter bypass valve. 7
Oil pan (to crankcase). 7
Oil pump cover. 7
Rocker arm cover. 4
Camshaft sprocket. 20
Oil pan (to crankcase). 12
Clutch pressure plate. 35
Distributor clamp. 20
Flywheel housing. 30
Manifold (exhaust). 20
Manifold (intake). 30
Water outlet. 30
Water pump. 30
Connecting rod cap. 45
Cylinder head. 55
Main bearing cap. 70
Oil pump. 55
Flywheel. 50
Harmonic balancer. 50
Temperature sending unit. 20
Oil filter. 25
Oil pan drain plug. 20
1977 Olds mobile 350 CID and 403 CID V8 engines (VIN codes R, K)
All dimensions in inches unless otherwise noted
General
Bore and stroke
350 . 4.057 x 3.385
403 . 4.351 x 3.385
Compression ratio. 8.5:1
Firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Cylinder numbers
Right bank, front to rear. 2—4-6-8
Left bank, front to rear. 1-3-5-7
 62 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

Pistons and piston rings

Nominal outside diameter
350. 4.057
403. 4.351
Clearance at thrust surface. 0.001 to 0.002
Piston pin diameter. 0.9803 to 0.9807
Ring gap (top and 2nd). 0.010 to 0.023
Oil ring gap. 0.015 to 0.055
Ring-to-groove side clearance
Top. 0.002 to 0.004
2nd. 0.002 to 0.004

Camshaft
Journal diameters
No. 1 . 2.0365 to 2.0357
No. 2. 2.0165 to 2.0157
No. 3. 1.9965 to 1.9957
No. 4. 1.9765 to 1.9757
No. 5. 1.9565 to 1.9557
Journal-to-bearing clearance. 0.0020 to 0.0058
End clearance. 0.01 1 to 0.077
Crankshaft
Main journal diameters
No. 1 . 2.4998 to 2.4988
Nos. 2 through 5. 2.4995 to 2.4985
Main bearing oil clearance
Nos. 1 through 4. 0.0005 to 0.0021
No. 5. 0.0015 to 0.0031
Endplay. 0.0035 to 0.0135
Valves
Head diameter (intake)
350. 1.880 to 1.870
403 . 2.000 to 1.990
Head diameter (exhaust). 1.497 to 1.507
Stem diameter
Intake . 0.3425 to 0.3432
Exhaust. 0.3420 to 0.3427
Stem-to-guide clearance
Intake. 0.0010 to 0.0027
Exhaust. 0.0015 to 0.0032
Valve face angle
Intake. 44°
Exhaust. 30°
Valve seat angle
Intake. 45°
Exhaust. 31°
Pushrod length. 8.265
Torque specifications ft-lb
Crankshaft bearing cap bolts nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4. 80
Crankshaft bearing no. 5. 120
Flywheel-to-crankshaft (with automatic transmission) 60
Flywheel-to-crankshaft (with manual transmission) .... 90
Oil pump-to-bearing cap bolts. 35
Oil pump cover-to-pump bolts. 8
Rocker arm pivot bolt-to-head. 25
Valve cover bolts.
Fully driven, seated, not stripped
Oil pan bolts.
10
Oil pan drain plug.
30
Crankshaft balancer-to-crankshaft bolt. 200 to 310
Oil filter element-to-base.
20
Oil filter assembly-to-cylinder block bolts. 35
Front cover-to-cylinder block bolts. 35
Fan driven pulley-to-hub bolts. 20
Fan driving pulley-to-balancer bolts.. 20
Water pump-to-front cover bolts.
13
Water outlet-to-manifold bolts. 20
Intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 40
Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 25
Carburetor-to-intake manifold bolts. 10
Engine mount-to-cylinder block bolts. 75
Engine mount-to-frame mount.
50
Starter-to-cylinder block bolts.^
35
Starter brace-to-cylinder block bolts.
25
Starter brace-to-starter bolt.
15
Starter brace-to-starter stud.
8
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 63

Distributor clamp-to-cylinder block bolt. 17

Spark plugs. 25
Cylinder head bolts. 130
Connecting rod nuts. 42
1979 and 1980 Pontiac 265 CID and 301 CID V8 engines (VIN codes S, W, Y)
AH dimensions in inches unless otherwise noted
General
Bore and stroke
265 . 3.75 x 3.00
301 . 4.00 x 3.00
Compression ratio. 8.2:1
Firing order. 1-8-4—3—6—5—7-2
Cylinder numbers
Right bank, front to rear. 2-4-6-8
Left bank, front to rear. 1-3-5-7
Pistons and piston rings
Measurement taken at. Top of skirt
Clearance in cylinder
265. 0.001 7 to 0.0025
301 . 0.0025 to 0.0033
(Note: Cylinder block and pistons must be at 70° to 80°F at time of fitting pistons to cylinder)
Ring end gap
Upper. 0.010 to 0.020
Lower. 0.010 to 0.020
Side clearance. 0.0015 to 0.0035
Oil ring gap. 0.035
Oil ring side clearance. 0.0015 to 0.0035
Piston pin
Diameter (265, 301). 0.938 to 0.942
Length (265, 301). 3.00
Fit in piston (301 engine).. 0.0002 to 0.0004
Fit in piston (265). 0.0003 to 0.0005
Fit in rod. Press
Connecting rods
Weight (265, 301). 21.9 oz
Length (center to center) (265, 301). 6.050
Bearing oil clearance. 0.0005 to 0.0025
Endplay on crankshaft
(Total for two) (265, 301). 0.006 to 0.022
Valves
Diameter of head
Intake (265 engine). 1.60
Intake (301 engine). 1.72
Exhaust (265 engine). 1.38
Exhaust (301 engine). 1.50
Overall length
Intake (265 engine). 5.1 19
Intake (301 engine). 5.0785
Exhaust (265). 5.120
Exhaust (301). 5.0785
Diameter of stem. 0.3425
Stem to guide clearance
Intake (265, 301). 0.0010 to 0.0027
Top exhaust (265, 301). 0.0010 to 0.0027
Bottom exhaust (265, 301). 0.0020 to 0.0037
Valve seat angle
Intake (265, 301). 46°
Exhaust (265, 301). 46°
Valve face angle
Intake (265, 301). 45°
Exhaust (265, 301). 45°

Crankshaft
Crankshaft endplay. 0.003 to 0.009
Journal diameter (265, 301). 3.00
Main bearing oil clearance (all). 0.0002 to 0.0017
Crankpin diameter (265, 301). 2.000
Camshaft
Bearing diameter (all). 1.900

Valve system
Valve lifter
Type. Hydraulic
Leak-down rate (all). 12 to 90 sec ® 50 lb load
Plunger travel (for gaging purposes) 0.125
 64
Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

Pushrod length (265, 301)

8.12
Oil pump
Pressure (265, 301). 35 to 40 psi @ 2600 rpm

Torque specifications ft-lb

Bolt-main bearing cap-to-block. 70
Bolt-rear main bearing cap-to-block .. 100
Bolt-cylinder head. 95
Bolt-flywheel-to-crankshaft. 95
Nut-connecting rod bearing cap. 35
Bolt-oil pan-to-block. 12
Bolt-oil pump-to-block. 30
Bolt-harmonic balancer-to-crankshaft 160
Bolt-exhaust manifold-to-head. 35
Bolt-intake manifold-to-head. 40
Bolt—camshaft-to-sprocket. 40
Nut-rocker arm-to-stud. 20
Stud-rocker arm.
50
Spark plug.
15
Bolt-rocker cover.
6
Bolt-timing gear cover.
30

1 General description and engine identification 2 Engine repair operations - general notes

1 Up until 1977, all engines in Buick automobiles were manufac¬ The following engine removal operations can be performed with
tured by Buick. However, since that time, Buick automobiles come the engine installed and still bolted to its mounts:
equipped with various engines supplied by Oldsmobile, Chevrolet, and
1 Removal of the intake and exhaust manifolds
Pontiac divisions of General Motors.
2 Removal of the valve mechanism
2 A check of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) will quickly
3 Removal of the cylinder heads
determine from which GM plant your car's engine originated. The VIN
4 Removal of the torsional damper, crankcase front cover
is stamped onto a small metal plate that is affixed to the car's
(timing cover), front oil seal, timing chain and timing chain
dashboard. The number gives information concerning the engine, the
sprockets
year of the car, and so on. This metal tag is located on the dashboard
5 Removal of the flywheel (with the transmission previously
in the left hand comer (driver's side), up against the windshield. The
removed)
fifth digit of the VIN is the number that tells the origin of the engine.
6 Removal of the camshaft
The letters C, A, G, J, V, X and the numbers 2, 3 are Buick codes.
Letters R, K are Oldsmobile and S, W, Y are Pontiac. Chevrolet codes The following engine removal operations can be performed with
are the letters L, H, U. There are two exceptions to this rule. If your the engine installed but raised slightly off its mounts:
Buick has an R code or an H code and was built before 1 975 or 1 978, 1 Removal of the oil pan
respectively, the engine was manufactured by Buick. 2 Removal of the oil pump
3 Most of the V8 engines offered in Buick cars are small block 3 Removal of the rear main oil seal
engines. That is, they are either 265, 301,305, or 350 CID (cubic inch 4 Removal of the pistons, connecting rods and associated
displacement) motors. A big block 455 CID V8 was available in 1974 bearings
and, in 1977, Buick also offered a 403 CID V8. 5 Removal of the engine mounts
4 There are some differences between the various makes of engines
The following engine removal operations can be performed only
but overall, repair and maintenance procedures are nearly identical.
after the engine has been completely removed from the vehicle:
Where differences occur, they will be noted. A check of the specifi¬
/ Removal of the crankshaft
cations chart at the beginning of this Chapter will alert the home
mechanic to any differences in the various tolerances. 2 Removal of the main and camshaft bearings
Whenever engine work is required there are some basic steps
TYPICAL VIN which the home mechanic should perform before any work is begun.
These preliminary steps will help prevent delays during the operation.
/- They are as follows:

a) Read through the appropriate Sections in this manual to get

an understanding of the processes involved, tools necessary
and replacement parts which will be needed.
' b) Contact your local GM dealer or automotive parts store to
check on replacement parts availability and cost. In many
cases, a decision must be made beforehand whether to
simply remove the faulty component and replace it with a
new or rebuilt unit or to overhaul the existing part.
c) If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, it is imperative
that a qualified specialist de-pressurize the system if this is
required to perform the necessary engine repair work. The
home mechanic should never disconnect any of the air
conditioning system while it is still pressurized, as this can
cause serious personal injury as well as possibly damage the
air conditioning system. Ascertain if de-pressurization is
necessary while the vehicle is still operational.

3 Engine - removal and installation methods and precautions

1 The engine can be removed complete with transmission or

independently, leaving the transmission in the vehicle. Unless heavy
Fig. 2.1 Location of VIN and engine code letter (Sec 1)
duty lifting equipment is available, the removal of the engine on its
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 65

4.25 Remove the bolts which secure the 5.1 8a Remove the transmission mounting 5.1 8b The bolts which mount the
torque converter to the engine drive plate bolts at the rear crossmember crossmember to the frame are accessible
(flywheel) through holes in the frame rails

5.20 When the transmission is removed with 5.22 Disconnect the speedometer cable from 5.26 Remove the shift linkage from the side of
the engine, position the lifting chains so that the transmission housing the transmission
the assembly hangs at a steep angle

own is to be recommended particularly if an automatic transmission is (if equipped) and remove the radiator and shroud (see Chapter 3).
installed as the combined weight of both units will be certainly more 7 Remove the fan and fan pulley at the front of the water pump.
than one person can handle. 8 Disconnect the wiring at the alternator. Mark the wires with coded
2 During the removal operations, make sure that any jacks used are pieces of tape to help identify them upon reassembly.
supplemented with axle-stands before attempting to work under the 9 Disconnect the wires at the temperature switch. Disconnect the
vehicle. ground strap running between the right cylinder head and the firewall.
3 Do not smoke if fuel has been spilled and mop up fuel and oil 10 Disconnect the wires at the oil pressure switch or the fluid fitting
spillages as quickly as possible. if a mechanical oil pressure gauge is fitted. The oil pressure port is at
4 If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, never disconnect the extreme rear of the engine.
any of the system tines. If the belt-driven compressor can be unbolted 1 1 Disconnect the wiring at the ignition coil. 1974 models have the
and moved to one side of the engine compartment to provide room to coil mounted at the rear, adjacent to the distributor. 1975 and later
service components, this is permissible. If sufficient clearance is not models have the coil inside the distributor cap, in which case the
obtainable then the system must be discharged by your dealer or a electrical coupler at the distributor will be disconnected. In either case,
competent refrigeration engineer and subsequently recharged once identify the disconnected wires with coded strips of tape.
the engine work is complete. 12 Disconnect the accelerator linkage where it is supported at the
5 If air conditioning is fitted, avoid damage to the condenser which intake manifold.
is mounted just ahead of the radiator. 13 Disconnect the fuel line (from the gas tank) where it attaches to
the fuel pump. Have an empty can and some rags handy to catch
excess fuel in the system. Plug the hose to keep dirt out of the system
4 Engine - removal (without transmission) and to prevent later fuel drainage.
14 Disconnect the fuel vapor hoses which run from the emission
1 If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the car should be system charcoal canister to the engine. This canister, in most cases, is
driven to a GM dealer or refrigeration specialist to have the system de¬ located in the engine compartment just behind the grille.
pressurized. The air conditioning system cannot be simply unbolted 15 Disconnect the vacuum hose for the power brake booster (if
and laid aside for engine removal. Do not attempt to disconnect any of equipped with power brakes). This vacuum hose runs to the intake
the air conditioning system while it is under pressure as serious manifold, where it should be disconnected.
damage to the system, as well as to yourself, can occur. 16 Remove the bolts which attach the power steering bracket to the
2 Remove the hood. Scribe the hood hinges and brackets to ease engine (if equipped with power steering). Leave the hoses connected
alignment when reinstalling. Refer to Chapter 12 for the correct and use a length of stiff wire (a coat hanger will work well) to tie the
procedure to follow for this job. Set the hood in a safe place where it pump assembly against the inner fender panel. Make sure it is clear of
will not be damaged. the engine and will not be damaged.
3 Disconnect the battery cables at the battery. 17 On air conditioned cars, disconnect the compressor ground wire
4 Remove the air cleaner assembly and set aside. Make sure to from mounting bracket and remove electrical connector from the
identify all hoses with pieces of tape to make reassembly easier. compressor clutch. Next, remove the air conditioner compressor and
5 Drain the radiator and engine block, referring to Chapter 1, if related components.
necessary. 18 The removal of the distributor and carburetor at this time is
6 Disconnect the radiator hoses and transmission fluid cooler lines optional. Many people remove these components before engine
 66 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

removal due to the fact that they can be damaged as the engine the position of each and duly mark with tape to help during the
assembly is lifted free of the vehicle. If it is decided that they be reassembly process.
removed, refer to the appropriate Chapters (Chapter 5 and Chapter 4), 7 On floorshift models, remove the backdrive rod at the bellcrank
for the removal sequence. Be sure to cover the openings in the intake and the shift control assembly from its support. The shifter assembly
manifold to prevent articles from dropping into the recesses. can then be carefully lowered and removed from under the vehicle.
19 Raise the vehicle and support firmly on jack stands. 8 On some later models it will be necessary to remove the catalytic
20 Drain the oil from the oil pan (Chapter 1). converter which is supported at the transmission. (Refer to Chapter 6).
21 Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the flanges on each exhaust 9 Disconnect the clutch linkage at the cross-shaft then remove the
manifold. Penetrating oil may have to be used to loosen frozen nuts. cross-shaft at the frame bracket. Disconnect the driveshaft
22 Disconnect the wires at the starter solenoid, marking each with a 10 Drain the oil from the engine (Chapter 1).
piece of tape to identify each for reassembly. 1 1 Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold flanges on either
23 Remove the starter/solenoid assembly. side of the engine.
24 Remove the flywheel splash shield (manual transmission) or 12 On some models equipped with a cross-over exhaust pipe, it will
converter housing cover (automatic transmission) as applicable. be necessary to remove this cross-over pipe.
25 On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission remove the 13 Disconnect the wiring at the starter solenoid, marking each wire
converter-to-flywheel bolts. This is done by working through the with a coded strip of tape. Remove the starter motor/solenoid.
opening gained by the removal of the cover previously removed. It will 14 Make a final check under the vehicle that all wiring and peripheral
be necessary to turn the engine by the bolt at the center of the components are disconnected from the transmission and that all
torsional damper to bring each of the bolts into view. Mark the relative accessories are clear of the transmission. Move to the engine
position of the converter to the flywheel with a scribe so it can be compartment and do the same.
reinstalled in the same position. Use a long screwdriver in the teeth of 1 5 Position a movable jack (floor jack or transmission jack) under the
the flywheel to prevent movement as the bolts are loosened (photo). transmission oil pan using a block of wood as an insulator. Take the
26 Lower the vehicle. weight of the transmission on the jack.
27 Move back into the engine compartment and make a last check 16 Attach the hoist lifting chains to the lifting 'eyes' of the engine.
that all wires and hoses are disconnected from the engine assembly There is one bracket at the front of the engine and one at the rear,
and that all peripheral accessories have enough clearance. diagonally opposite. Make sure the chain is looped properly through
28 Attach the hoist lifting chains to the lifting 'eyes' mounted to the the engine brackets and secured with strong bolts and nuts through
engine. There is one bracket at the front of the engine and one at the the chain loops. The hook on the lifting hoist should be at the center
rear, diagonally opposite. Make sure the chain is looped properly of the engine. Position the chains so the engine/transmission unit will
through the engine brackets and secured with strong nuts and bolts be at a steep angle, the front being higher than the rear.
through the chain loops. The hook on the hoist should be over the 17 Raise the hoist until all slack is removed from the chains. Do not
center of the engine with the lengths of chain at equal distances so as lift any further at this time.
to lift the engine straight up.
1 8 Under the car, remove the transmission-to-crossmember bolts and
29 Raise the engine hoist until all slack is out of the chains. Do not the crossmember-to-frame bolts. Raise the transmission slightly and
lift any further at this time.
slide the crossmember to the rear until it can be removed (photos).
30 Remove the through-bolt at each engine mount. 19 Remove the through-bolt at each engine mount.
31 Remove the bolts which attach the rear of the engine to the 20 Carefully raise the engine and lower the transmission at the same
transmission bellhousing.
time. Do this a little at a time, checking clearances as you go. If the
32 Support the transmission using a jack with wood blocks as lifting chains are positioned properly, the engine/transmission unit will
cushioners. While under the vehicle, check that all components are hang at a very steep angle. If it is necessary to re-position the lifting
clear of the engine assembly.
chains, carefully lower the engine back onto its mounts, with the floor
33 Raise the engine slightly and then pull forward to clear the clutch jack still supporting the transmission (photo).
shaft (manual transmission). Where an automatic transmission is 21 As the assembly is rolled out of the engine compartment, it may
installed, keep the torque converter pushed well to the rear to ensure be necessary to lift the transmission slightly to clear the front body
retaining the engagement of the converter tangs with the oil pump nosepiece.
inside the transmission.
34 Carefully lift the engine straight up and out of the engine
Automatic transmission
compartment, continually checking clearances around the engine. Be
22 Working under the car, disconnect the speedometer cable. Do this
particularly careful that the engine does not hit the brake master
by loosening the collar with pliers, then pulling the inner cable and
cylinder, firewall, power steering pump (which is wired to the fender
collar out of the transmission (photo).
well) or the body nosepiece as it is rolled free of the vehicle.
23 Disconnect the oil cooler lines at the transmission and then
35 The transmission should remain supported by the floor jack or
completely remove these lines. Plug the ends to prevent dirt from
wood blocks while the engine is out of place.
entering the system.
24 Disconnect the vacuum line at the vacuum modulator.
5 Engine - removal (with transmission) 25 Disconnect the electrical wiring at the transmission, depending on
the model year.
1 If the transmission is in need of repairs at the same time as the 26 Disconnect the shift control linkage at the transmission (photo).
engine, it is wise to remove both units together. The body and frame 27 Remove the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).
construction of the Regal/Century does allow these components to be 28 Insert a plug into the rear of the transmission to prevent fluid loss
removed as a single unit, however, be forewarned that extra weight as the engine/transmission assembly is tilted upon removal. A plastic
will be involved. Make sure the lifting hoist is capable of handling the bag secured with wire or tape will generally suffice.
extra weight and if at all possible have at least one assistant on hand 29 On some later models it will be necessary to remove the catalytic
to help in the procedure. converter (see Chapter 6).
2 Initially follow the sequence outlined in Section 4, paraqraphs 1 30 Drain the oil from the engine (Chapter 1).
through 18. 31 Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold flanges on either
side of the engine. If equipped with an exhaust cross-over pipe,
Manual transmission remove it.
3 If equipped with a floor shift, remove the shift lever knob, and on 32 Disconnect the wiring at the starter solenoid, marking each wire
4-speed models the spring and T-handle.
with a coded strip of tape. Remove the starter/solenoid from the
4 Working under the car, disconnect the speedometer cable by engine.
loosening the collar with pliers, then pulling the collar and inner cable
33 Make a final check that all wiring and peripheral components are
out of the transmission. Tie or tape the end of the cable out of the way.
disconnected and clear of the transmission. Move to the engine
5 Disconnect the electrical wiring at the back-up lamp switch and compartment and do the same.
the TCS switch (1974 models only). Identify these wires with coded Note: The remainder of the removal process is the same as for the
pieces of tape to help during reassembly.
manual transmission. Follow previously described steps 15 through
6 Disconnect the shift rods from the transmission side cover. Note
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 67

crossmember. Tighten all bolts to specification.

6 Engine/transmission removed - separation and reconnection 4 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.
See Section 5.
5 Adjust the clutch, if equipped, as described in Chapter 8.
Manual transmission 6 Fill the cooling system with the proper coolant and water mixture
1 Extract the screws and remove the cover plate from the lower (Chapter 3).
front face of the clutch bellhousing. 7 Fill the engine with correct grade of engine oil (Chapter 1).
2 Unscrew and remove the bolts which hold the bellhousing to the 8 Check the fluid level in the transmission and add fluid as
engine. necessary.
3 Support the weight of the transmission and withdraw it in a 9 Connect the positive battery cable, followed by the negative cable.
straight line so that the clutch disc is not damaged while the main If sparks or arcing occurs as the negative cable is connected to the
drive gear is still engaged in its splined hub. battery, check that all electrical accessories are turned off (check
4 Refer to Chapter 8 for the following clutch component processes. interior dome lights first). If arcing still occurs, check that all electrical
5 Unscrew each of the clutch cover bolts a turn at a time until all wiring is connected properly to the engine and transmission.
spring pressure is relieved. 10 See Section 48 for the starting-up sequence.
6 Withdraw the clutch assembly from the face of the flywheel taking
care not to let the clutch disc drop.
7 Reconnecting the transmission to the engine is the reverse of the 9 Engine mounts - replacement with engine in vehicle
separation procedure but if the clutch has been removed, the disc must
be centralized. 1 If on inspection, the flexible mounts have become hard or are split
or separated from their metal backing, they must be replaced. This
operation may be carried out with the engine/transmission still in the
Automatic transmission
vehicle. See Section 23 for the proper way to raise the engine while
8 Remove the cover plate from the lower front face of the converter
it is still inside the car.
housing.
9 Unscrew each of the driveplate to torque converter bolts. The
crankshaft will have to be turned to bring the bolts into view. Mark the Front mounts
relative position of the driveplate to the torque converter. The 2 Remove the through-bolt and nut.
driveplate can be held still for bolt removal by jamming the teeth of the 3 Raise the engine slightly using a hoist or jack with wood block
starter ring gear with a large screwdriver. under the oil pan at forward edge, then remove the mount and bracket
10 Support the transmission on blocks and then remove the converter assembly from the frame.
bellhousing to engine bolts. 4 Install the new mount, the through-bolt and nut, then tighten all
1 1 Using either a hoist or a floor jack, withdraw the engine from the the bolts to the specified torque.
transmission. While carrying out this operation, keep the torque
converter pressed rearwards in full engagement with the oil pump of Rear mount
the transmission. 5 Remove the bolts going through the mount and into the trans¬
12 Reconnection is a reversal of separation but align the mating mission. Then raise the transmission slightly using a jack.
marks on the torque converter and driveplate and tighten all the bolts 6 Remove the mount along with any shims, spacers or brackets.
to the specified torque. 7 Install the new mount, lower the transmission and align the bolts.
8 Tighten all the bolts to the specified torque.

7 Engine - installation (without transmission)

10 Engine - dismantling (general)
1 Lift the engine with a hoist off the engine stand. The chains should
be positioned as on removal, with the engine sitting level. 1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand but if one is
2 Lower the engine into place inside the engine compartment, not available, then stand the engine on a strong bench so as to be at
closely watching clearances. On manual transmissions, carefully guide
the engine onto the transmission input shaft. The two components
should be at the same angle, with the shaft sliding easily into the
engine.
3 Install the engine mount through-bolts and the bellhousing bolts.
Torque-tighten to specifications.
4 Install the remaining engine components in the reverse order of
removal, referring to Section 4 as necessary.
5 Fill the cooling system with the proper coolant and water mixture
(Chapter 3).
6 Fill the engine with the correct grade of engine oil (Chapter 1).
7 Check the transmission fluid level, adding fluid as necessary.
8 Connect the positive battery cable, followed by the negative cable.
If sparks or arcing occurs as the negative cable is connected to the
battery, check that all electrical accessories are turned off (check dome
light first). If arcing still occurs, check that all electrical wiring is
connected properly to the engine and transmission.
9 See Section 48 for the starting up sequence.

8 Engine - installation (with transmission)

1 With the transmission connected to the engine as described in

Section 7, attach the lifting chains to the engine in the same fashion
as on removal.
2 Tilt and lower the engine/transmission unit into the engine
compartment, guiding the engine mounts correctly onto the frame
mounts, and at the same time raising the transmission into the correct
position. Fig. 2.2 Engine mounts at side of engine and transmission -
3 Install the engine mount through-bolts and the rear transmission typical (Sec 9)
 68 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

1 1.12 A pair of vise-grip pliers will be useful 12.33 Pontiac-manufactured engines use a 13.14 The spark plug heat shields are held in
when removing the oil dipstick tube bolt to mate the intake manifold to the front place by bolts located under the exhaust
cover manifold

a comfortable working height.

f) Distributor with cap and spark plug wires (Chapter 5).
2 During the dismantling process the greatest care should be taken g) Carburetor and fuel lines (Chapter 4).
to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. As an aid to achieving this, it h) OH filter (Chapter 1) (photo).
is a sound scheme to thoroughly clean down the outside of the engine, i) Clutch pressure plate and disc (Chapter 8).
removing all traces of oil and dirt. j) Oil dipstick and dipstick tube.
3 Use a water soluble grease solvent. The latter compound will k) Spark plugs (Chapter 1).
make the job easier, as, after the solvent has been applied and allowed 3 With these components removed, the general engine sub-as¬
to stand for a time, a vigorous jet of water will wash off the solvent and semblies can be removed, serviced and installed using the following
all the grease and filth. If the dirt is thick and deeply embedded, work Sections in this Chapter.
the solvent into it with a wire brush.
4 At the appropriate times, refer to Section 37 which deals with
4 Finally wipe down the exterior of the engine with a rag and only general inspection procedures and Section 42 describing the engine
then, when it is quite clean should the dismantling process begin. As reassembly steps.
the engine is stripped, clean each part in a bath of parts cleaner. 5 If at any time during the dismantling procedure damage is found to
5 Never immerse parts which have internal oilways in solvent (such any of the major engine components (cylinder heads, cylinder block,
as the crankshaft) but wipe them carefully with a solvent soaked rag. crankshaft, etc.), consider the possibility of purchasing new or rebuilt
Probe the oilways with a length of wire and if an air line is available, assemblies as described in Section 38. This decision will in most cases
blow the oilways through to clean them.
alter your particular rebuilding sequence as dismantling, inspection
6 Be extremely careful using combustible cleaning agents near an and assembly will not be required.
open flame or inside an enclosed work area. Fumes can ignite from a
lighted cigarette or a hot water heater pilot light. Wipe up any fuel or
cleaner spills immediately, and do not store greasy or solvent-soaked
rags where they can ignite. 12 Intake manifold - removal and installation
7 Re-use of old engine gaskets is false economy and can give rise to
oil and water leaks, if nothing worse. To avoid the possibility of trouble Note: If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, carefully
after the engine has been reassembled, always use new gaskets examine the routing of the A/C hoses and the mounting of the
throughout. compressor. Depending on the exact system used, you may be able to
8 Do not throw the old gaskets away as it sometimes happens that remove the intake manifold without disconnecting the A/C system, if
an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then you are in doubt, take the car to a certified dealer or refrigeration
very useful as a template. Hang up the old gaskets as they are specialist to have the system de-pressurised. Do not, under any
removed on a suitable hook or nail. circumstances, disconnect the A/C hoses while the system is under
9 Wherever possible, replace nuts, bolts and washers finger-tight pressure.
from wherever they were removed. This helps avoid later loss and mix-
ups. If they cannot be replaced then lay them out in such a fashion that 1974 (AH)
it is clear from where they came.
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then drain the
coolant from the radiator.
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly, then disconnect the coolant
11 Engine — major overhaul dismantling sequence temperature indicator wire from the sending unit.
3 Unhook the throttle linkage and disconnect the fuel line from the
1 The Sections in this Chapter deal with removal, installation, carburetor (plug the line to prevent fuel leaks and contamination).
overhaul and inspection of the various engine components. Reference 4 Remove the bolts that attach the manifold to the engine, then
should be made to appropriate Chapters for removing and servicing carefully lift the manifold off.
the ancillary engine accessories. These parts include the alternator, air 5 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the block.cylinder heads
pump, carburetor, etc. and intake manifold. Make sure that all traces of the old gaskets and
2 If the engine is removed from the vehicle for a major overhaul, the gasket sealer are removed. Be sure to use new gaskets and seals
entire engine should be stripped of its components. The exact order in during reassembly.
which the engine parts are removed is to some degree a matter of 6 Apply a thin coat of RTV gasket sealer to the ends of the new
personal preference, however, the following sequence can be used as rubber manifold seals, then lay them in position at the front and rear
a guide. of the block. Make sure they fit snugly against the block and the leads.
7 Apply a thin coat of RTV gasket sealer around the coolant
a) Air Injection Reactor System complete with brackets (Refer
passages in the new manifold-to-head gaskets (both sides), then
to Chapter 6).
carefully position the gaskets on the heads. Make sure thay are
b) Alternator (Chapter 5).
properly mated with an sealed against the rubber seals (RTV must be
c) Accessory drive belts and pulleys (if not previously removed used in this area or leaks will occur).
during engine removal).
8 Carefully set the intake manifold in place and install the bolts.
d) Water pump and related hoses (Chapter 3). Make sure that the gaskets are properly positioned after the manifold
e) Fuel pump and fuel pump push rod (Chapter 4). is installed.
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 69

9 Gradually tighten the bolts to the specified torque, working from h) Distributor wires
the center to the ends in a criss-cross pattern. i) Coolant temperature sending unit wire
10 The remainder of the installation procedure is basically the reverse j) AH vacuum hoses (tag them to ease reassembly)
of removal. Once the procedure is complete, start the engine and k) Coolant by-pass hose at manifold
check for leaks. 13 Remove the bolts that attach the manifold to the engine, then
carefully lift the manifold off.
1975 through 1977 Buick 350 engine (VIN codes H and 14 Refer to steps 5 through 10 for the remainder of the procedure.
J)
1 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then drain the 1977 Oldsmobile 350/403 engines (VIN codes R and K)
coolant from the radiator. 1 5 The intake manifold removal and installation procedures for these
12 Remove the air cleaner assembly, then disconnect: engines is identical to the procedures for the 1975 through 1977
Buick 350 engines. Refer to steps 11 through 14, but note that the
a) The upper radiator hose and heater hose at the intake
EGR valve must be removed before the intake manifold is removed
manifold
and replaced after the intake manifold is replaced. Also, dip the
b) Accelerator linkage at the carburetor, the linkage bracket at
attaching bolts in engine oil prior to installation and tighten them first
the manifold and the linkage return springs
c) Cruise control chain (if so equipped) to 1 5 ft-lb, then to 40 ft-lb.
d) Booster vacuum line at the manifold
e) Fuel line at the carburetor (plug the line to prevent fuel leaks 1977 through 1980 Chevrolet 305/350 engines (VIN
and contamination) codes U, H and L)
f) Transmission vacuum modulator line 16 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then drain the
g) Idle stop solenoid wire (if so equipped) coolant from the radiator.
 70 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

17 Remove the air cleaner assembly, then disconnect:

a) The upper radiator hose and the heater hose at the intake
manifold
b) Accelerator linkage and fuel line at the carburetor (plug the
line to prevent fuel leaks and contamination)
c) Crankcase vent hoses
d) Vacuum hose at distributor
e) Air cleaner bracket, accelerator return spring and bracket and
accelerator bellcrank (as required)
f) Alternator upper mounting bracket

1 8 Remove the distributor cap and tie it out of the way, then mark the
distributor body opposite the rotor. Remove the distributor clamp and
pull the distributor out of the engine (do not crank the engine over with
the distributor removed).
19 Remove the bolts that attach the manifold to the engine, then
carefully lift off the manifold.
20 Refer to steps 5 through 10 for the remainder of the procedure.
Note that some engines do not use a rubber front and rear seal. Where
this is the case, apply a ^ in bead of RTV gasket sealer to the engine
block front and rear ridge and extend the bead j- in up each cylinder
head to seal and hold the side gaskets.
21 The distributor must be replaced with the rotor pointing at the
mark that was made on the distributor body (it may take more than
one try to get everything aligned). Refer to Chapter 5 if problems are
encountered during distributor installation.

1979 and 1980 Pontiac 265/301 engines (V!N codes S,

W and Y)
Note: On engines with V/N code Y, the EGR valve must be removed
before the intake manifold.
22 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then drain the
coolant from the radiator.
23 Remove the air cleaner assembly, then disconnect the closed
ventilation hose, the air cleaner vacuum hose and the hot air duct.
24 Remove the water outlet fitting bolts, then pull the fitting off the
manifold and position it out of the way (with the radiator hose still
attached).
25 Disconnect all emission control vacuum hoses and electrical leads
(tag them to ease reassembly), then remove the spark plug wires from
the brackets.
26 Remove the power brake vacuum hose (if so equipped) and pull
the vacuum hoses off the carburetor (tag them, also). Disconnect the
crankcase vent hose.
27 Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor (plug it to prevent fuel
leaks and contamination).
28 Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor and the mani¬
fold.
29 Remove the bolts that attach the manifold to the engine, then
carefully lift the manifold off.
30 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the manifold, cylinder
heads and timing chain cover. Be sure to use new gaskets and new 0-
rings.
31 Position the new gaskets on the cylinder heads and hold them in
place with the plastic retainers.
32 Position a new 0-ring seal in the timing chain cover, then carefully
set the manifold in place. Install the bolts, but do not tighten them.
33 Tighten the timing chain cover-to-manifold bolt (photo) until the
metal surfaces contact each other (1 5 ft-lb), then tighten the remain¬
ing manifold bolts to the specified torque.
34 The remainder of the installation procedure is basically the reverse
of removal.

13 Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation

Note: Always disconnect the negative cable from the battery before
attempting to remove the exhaust manifolds.

1974 through 1976 (all) and 1977 Buick 350 engine

(VIN codes H and J) Fig. 2.4 Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (Sec 12)

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack-

A Oldsmobile
stands.
B Chevrolet and Pontiac
2 Disconnect the forward exhaust pipe from both manifolds, then
C Buick
loosen the clamp and slide it forward out of the catalytic convertor or
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 71

1 5.5 A valve lock being drawn away from the 1 5.6 Remove the seal from the stem of the
14.1 3 To keep each pushrod in its original
position, use a cardboard box with holes valve stem valve (Chevrolet and Pontiac engines)
punched in it

exhaust pipe. Penetrating oil may be required to loosen the nuts. If the exhaust pipe from the manifolds. Lower the vehicle.
engine is equipped with an AIR emission control system, refer to 1 9 Remove the right side manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, then lift out
Chapter 6 and disconnect the tubes from the exhaust manifolds. the manifold. Note: It may be necessary to loosen the bolts on the
3 If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, the opposite manifold to gain clearance.
equalizer shaft must also be removed. 20 To remove the left side manifold, first remove the carburetor air
4 Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, then lower pre-heater shroud. Raise the vehicle, remove the manifold-to-cylinder
the manifold and remove it from beneath the car. Repeat the head bolts and remove the manifold from beneath the car. Note: It
procedure for the remaining manifold. may be necessary to loosen the bolts on the opposite manifold to gain
5 Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Be sure to clearance.
thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and 21 Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Be sure to
manifolds and use new gaskets. Also, use a torque wrench to tighten thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and
the manifold bolts. manifolds and use new gaskets. Since the end holes of the gaskets are
slotted, the manifolds can be positioned and the end bolts installed
1977 Oldsmobile 350/403 engines (VIN codes R and K) loosely before slipping the gaskets into place. Also, use a torque
wrench to tighten the manifold bolts.
6 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
7 Remove the crossover pipe, then disconnect the exhaust pipe from
the right manifold. Note the locations of the bolt springs and the pipe
14 Cylinder heads - removal
seal.
8 To improve access, remove the right front wheel, then take out the
1 Note: If the engine has been removed from the car, disregard the
lower right engine mount bolt. Using a suitable jack, raise the right
following steps which do not apply.
side of the engine slightly, then remove the exhaust manifold-to-
2 If equipped with air conditioning, the vehicle should be taken to a
cylinder head bolts. Lower the manifold and remove it from beneath
certified dealer or refrigeration specialist for de-pressurization. Under
the car.
no circumstances should you disconnect any of the hoses while the
9 To remove the left side manifold, remove the air cleaner assembly
system is under pressure.
and the hot air shroud, then disconnect the lower alternator bracket.
3 Remove the intake manifold referring to Section 12.
10 Remove the crossover pipe (if not already done), then lower the
4 Remove the exhaust manifolds referring to Section 13.
vehicle to the ground.
5 Remove the lower mounting bolt for the alternator and lay the
1 1 Remove the manifold-to-cylinder head bolts and lift out the
alternator aside while the lower bracket is removed.
manifold from above.
6 If equipped with air conditioning, remove the A/C compressor and
12 Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Be sure to
forward mounting bracket. Make sure all hoses and fittings are
thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and
plugged to prevent dirt from entering the system.
manifolds and use new gaskets. Also, use a torque wrench to tighten
7 If equipped with power steering, remove the pump from its
the manifold bolts.
bracket and use wire to keep the pump out of the way. Do not
disconnect the hoses.
1977 through 1980 Chevrolet 305/350 engines (VIN 8 If not done previously, drain the engine block of its coolant. Drain
codes U, H and L) plugs are located on each side of the block for this. By raising the rear
13 Remove the air cleaner assembly and the carburetor heat stove of the car about 24 inches the block will drain sufficiently without
pipe. removing these plugs.
14 Grasp the spark plug wires at the boots and carefully pull them off 9 Remove the rocker arm cover (valve cover) attaching bolts. Lift the
of the plugs, then remove the wiring heat shields(photo). cover off the cylinder head. To break the gasket seal it may be
15 Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifolds and hang the necessary to strike the front of the cover with your hand or a rubber
pipes from pieces of wire attached to the frame. mallet. Do not pry on the sealing surfaces.
1 6 Remove the end bolts, then the center bolts, and lift the manifolds 10 It is important that each of the valve mechanism components be
away from the engine. kept separate once removed so they can be reinstalled in their original
17 Installation is basically the reverse of removal. Note that if a new positions. A cardboard box or rack, numbered according to engine
right side manifold is being installed, the carburetor heat stove must be cylinders, can be used for this.
transferred to the new manifold. Be sure to thoroughly clean the 11 Remove each of the rocker arm nuts (Chevrolet and Pontiac
mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and manifolds and use new engines), or bolts (Olds engines). Place them at their correct location
gaskets. Also, use a torque wrench to tighten the manifold bolts (start on the cardboard box or rack. Buick rocker arms and shafts can be
with the center bolts and work out to the end bolts). When connecting removed as a unit once the retaining bolts are removed.
the pipes to the manifolds, use new gaskets. 12 Remove each rocker arm assembly, placing each component on
the numbered box or rack. Buick rocker arms are held in place on the
1979 and 1980 Pontiac 265/301 engines (VIN codes S, shaft with plastic retainers which can be pried out of place with pliers.
Y, and W) Small piece of the retainer may break off inside the rocker arm shafts;
18 Raise the vehicle and set it on jackstands, then disconnect the be sure to remove them during the cleaning process.
 72 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

VALVE
SPRING

CLOSE
WOUND
COILS
IDENTIFICATION TOWARD
PAD- HEAD

VALVE KEYS ROCKER

ARM
PIVOT Fig. 2.6 Install the valve springs with the closely wound coils next
to the head (Sec 15)

ROCKER
ARMS 10-.010 (SERVICE)
6-.006 (PRODUCTION)

PUSH
RODS

BODY
COLLAR V

VALVE
vj OVERSIZE
MARKING
ON VALVE
SPRING H
HEAD WILL
EXHAUST
VALVE BE MARKED
.006 OR .010

Fig. 2.7 Valve components used on Oldsmobile engines (Sec 15)

Fig. 2.8 Oversize valve identification (Sec 17)

13 Punch holes in the cardboard box or rack, then lift each of the push
rods from the cylinder heads. Place each push rod in its appropriate 1 5 Cylinder head - dismantling
punched hole (photo).
14 Loosen each of the cylinder head attaching bolts one turn at a time
1 Note: New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for
until they can be removed. Note the length of each bolt as it is
GM engines at dealerships and auto parts stores. Due to the fact that
removed for reinstallation.
some specialized tools are necessary for the dismantling and inspec¬
1 5 Disconnect the engine ground strap attached to the rear of one
cylinder head. tion of the heads, and replacement parts may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to
1 6 With the help of an assistant, lift the heads free of the engine. Be
purchase replacement heads and install them referring to Section 21.
careful, they are heavy. If the head is stuck to the engine block, do not
2 Another alternative at this point is to take the cylinder heads
attempt to pry it free as this may ruin the sealing surfaces. Instead, use
complete to a competent automotive machine shop or GM dealership
a hammer and a block of wood, tapping upwards at each end.
for the overhaul process. This is especially true for Buick and
1 7 Place the heads on wood blocks to prevent damage. Refer to the
Oldsmobile engines where a precise valve stem height is required.
following Sections covering overhaul, inspection and installation
3 If the complete engine is being overhauled at the same time, it
procedures.
may be wise to refer to Section 38 before a decision is made.
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 73

4 If it is decided to overhaul the cylinder heads, read through the 3 Inspect each of the valve springs and its damper. Replace any
following Sections first to gain an understanding of the steps involved spring which is deformed, cracked or broken.
and the tools and replacement parts necessary for the job. Proceed as 4 Check the valve spring tension using GM tool J-8056. The springs
follows. are compressed to a specified height and then the tension required for
5 Using a valve spring compressor (available at tool or auto parts this is measured. This is done without the dampers. If not within 10 lbs
stores), compress each of the valve springs and remove the valve of the specified load, the spring should be replaced with a new one.
locking keys. Work on one valve at a time, removing the keys, then 5 Inspect the rocker arm bolts or studs (Chevrolet and Pontiac
releasing the spring and removing the spring cap (rotator), spring engines) for wear or damage. On Buick engines, check the rocker arm
shield (if equipped), spring and spring damper. Place these compo¬ bores and the shafts for wear. On Oldsmobile engines, check the
nents together on the numbered box or rack used during cylinder head curved portions of the pivots for wear.
removal. All valve mechanism components must be kept separate so 6 Check the push rods for warping by rolling each on a clean, flat
they can be returned to their original positions (photo). On Oldsmobile piece of glass. Any push rod which is not perfectly straight and free
and Buick engines, remove the old valve stem seals from the guides. from damage should be replaced with a new one.
6 Remove the oil seals from the stem of each valve (Chevrolet and 7 Check the cylinder head for warpage. Do this by placing a
Pontiac engines). New seals should be used upon reassembly (photo). straightedge across the length of the head and measuring any gaps
7 Remove any spring shims used at the bottom of the valve spring. between the straightedge and the head surface with a feeler gauge.
8 Remove each valve, in turn, and place them in the numbered box This should be done at three points across the head gasket surface,
or rack to complete the valve mechanism removal. Place the valve and also in a diagonal fashion across this surface.
components in an area where they will not be mixed up. 8 If warpage exceeds 0.006 in at any point when a straightedge
which spans the entire head is used, the cylinder head should be
resurfaced. Using a straightedge with a span of 6 inches, the warpage
should not exceed 0.003 in. Cylinder head resurfacing is a job for a
16 Cylinder head - cleaning
professional automotive machine shop. Also note that if a cylinder
1 Clean all carbon from the combustion chambers and valve ports. head is resurfaced, the intake manifold position will be slightly altered,
GM tool J-8089 is designed for this purpose, however most auto parts requiring the manifold to be resurfaced a proportionate amount.
stores will carry this cleaning attachment which is connected to a
common hand drill motor.
2 Thoroughly clean the valve guides. GM tool J-8101 is available for 18 Valves and valve seats - inspection and valve grinding
this, as are many similar devices found at auto parts stores.
3 Use parts cleaner to remove all sludge and dirt from the rocker 1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, especially
arm assemblies, push rods and valve components. Work on one set of the heads of the exhaust valves. The valves and seatings should be
components at a time, returning each set to its numbered location on examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very
your box or rack. slight the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves
4 A buffing wheel should be used to remove all carbon deposits from together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste.
the valves. Do not mix up the order of the valves while cleaning them. 2 Valve grinding is carried out as follows: smear a trace of coarse
5 Clean all carbon deposits from the head gasket mating surface. Be carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool
careful not to stratch this sealing surface. to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to
6 Clean the threads on all cylinder head attaching bolts thoroughly. its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste.
When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve
seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine
17 Cylinder head - inspection carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the
paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly
1 Carefully inspect the head for cracks around and inside the ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
exhaust ports, combustion chambers or external cracks to the water finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding
chamber. operation is completed.
2 Check the valve stem-to-bore clearance using a dial indicator. One 3 Where the valve or seat shows signs of bad pitting or burning,
at a time, place a valve in its installed position, with the valve head then the valve should be refaced by your dealer and the seat recut. If
slightly (about i in.) off its seat. Now attach a dial indicator to the head the refacing of the valve will reduce the edge of the valve head (seat
with the indicator point just touching the valve stem where it exits the width) to less than that given in the Specifications, replace the valve
cylinder head. Grab the top of the valve and move it from side to side, (photo).
noting the movement on the dial indicator. If valve stem clearance 4 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem.
exceeds the specifications, an oversize valve must be used, after Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great
reaming the valve guide. This is a job for your dealer or machine shop. care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves
Excessive clearance will cause excessive oil consumption; insufficient and valve seats with a solvent soaked rag then with a clean rag, and
clearance will result in noisy operation and may cause the valve to finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve
stick, resulting in harsh engine operation. ports clean.

20.6 Use a lifter removal tool to pull the lifter 20.9 If the bottom of the lifter has collapsed or
1 8.3 Measure the valve seat inside the cylinder
from its engine bore is scratched or nicked replace it with a new
head
one
 74 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

the cylinder heads and the engine block.

19 Cylinder head - assembly 2 To get the proper torque readings, the threads of the attaching
bolts must be free of dirt. This also goes for the threaded holes in the
1 Make sure all valve mechanism components are perfectly clean engine block. Run a tap through these threaded holes to ensure they
and free from carbon and dirt. The bare cylinder head should also be are clean.
clean and free from abrasive agents which may have been used for 3 Ascertain which type of head gasket you are using. Engines using
valve grinding, reaming, etc. steel head gaskets require a thin, even coat of sealer on both sides. No
2 Insert a valve in the proper port. On Buick and Oldsmobile engines, sealer of any kind should be used with composition steel/asbestos
push a new seal fully over the valve stem, seating it in the cylinder- gaskets.
head. 4 Place the gasket in place over the engine block dowel pins with
3 Assemble the valve spring assembly for that cylinder. the bead up (some gaskets will be marked This side up'). Oldsmobile
4 Using the valve spring compressor, compress the assembly over head gaskets are marked with a contrasting color stripe, which must
the valve stem and hold in this position. face 'up'.
5 On Chevrolet and Pontiac engines, install a new oil seal in the 5 Carefully lower the cylinder head onto the engine, over the dowel
lower groove of the valve stem. Make sure it is flat and not twisted. pins and the gaskets. Be careful not to move the gasket while doing
6 Install the valve locks and release the compressor. Make sure the this.
lock seats properly in the upper groove of the valve stem. 6 Coat the threads of the cylinder head attaching bolts with clean
7 On Oldsmobile and Buick engines, whenever a new valve is engine oil (Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines), or a sealing
installed or the valves are serviced the valve stem height must be compound (Chevrolet engines) and install each finger-tight. Do not
checked. Since this procedure requires a number of special tools, it tighten any of the bolts at this time.
should be done by a GM dealer service department or a reliable auto 7 Tighten each of the bolts, a little at a time, in the sequence shown.
repair shop. Continue tightening in this sequence until the proper torque reading is
obtained. As a final check, work around the head in a logical front-to-
rear sequence to make sure none of the bolts have been left out of the
20 Valve lifter - removal, inspection, installation sequence.
8 Install the exhaust manifolds as described in Section 13.

Checking
1 Hydraulic valve lifters are normally very reliable in operation and
do not require repeated adjustment.
2 A noisy valve lifter is best traced when the engine is idling. Place -
a length of hose or tubing near the position of each intake and exhaust
valve while listening at the other end of the tube. Another method is 0 0 0 0 0
to remove the rocker cover (valve cover) and with the engine idling,
place a finger on each of the valve spring retainers in turn. If a valve j

lifter is faulty in operation, it will be evident from the shock felt from
the retainer as the valve seats. 10 0 0 0 0f
3 Provided adjustment is correct, the most likely cause of a noisy
lifter is due to a piece of dirt being trapped between the plunger and
lifter body.

Removal r~
B 0 0 0 0 0
4 Remove the intake manifold (Section 12).
5 Remove the valve cover and lift each push rod out of the cylinder
block (see Section 14 for details).
6 To pull the lifters out of their bores a special tool can be purchased
V y ]
or a sharp scribe can be positioned at the top of the lifter and used to
0 0 0 0 0j
force the lifter upwards. Do not use pliers or other tools on the outside
of the lifter body. Stuck lifters can sometimes be worked free by r
squirting carburetor cleaner around the body and then working the
lifter up and down (photo).
7 Be sure to keep all lifters separated and identified so they can be
) 0

installed in the same locations.

Inspection 0 0 j
8 After cleaning the lifters (one at a time to prevent mixing up the
order), inspect for nicks, gouges, etc. Any damage at all is cause for f
0 0
replacement.
9 Check the bottom of the lifter (that which rides against the
0 0 0
camshaft) for scratches or nicks. The lifters should be replaced if the
bottom shows a concave condition, with the lifter body collapsing due
to wear (photo).
/>—
1
i 0 !

0
©

Installation 0
0

1 0 When installing the lifter, make sure thay are liberally coated with
'Molykote' or its equivalent. Vs—
© 0 0
i

1 1 If the original lifters are reused, they must be installed into their
appropriate bores.
12 Install the valve components, valve cover and intake manifold 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0L_
referring to the appropriate Sections

Fig. 2.9 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 21)

21 Cylinder heads - installation

A Buick C Oldsmobile
B Pontiac D Chevrolet
1 If not already done, thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces on both
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 75

21.11a Place some grease on the top of each 21.1 1b Add a small amount of grease to the 22.3 Tighten the rocker arm and at the same
valve before installing the rocker arms rocker balls before installation time check for movement of the pushrod (lash)

23.11 By turning the torsional damper bolt . 12 Remove the engine mount thru-bolt 23.1 5 A wood block placed between the
until the timing mark is at the bottom, the front engine mount sections
crankshaft throw will be in an "up" position

23.18 Tilt the oil pan down (as shown) at the 23.21a The front oil pan seal (Chevrolet 23.21 b Sealant is applied at the area where
rear to clear the front crossmember engine) has an indentation which fits into the the front gasket meets the side gasket
side gasket

9 Install each of the valve lifters (if removed) into its proper bore. gasket to seal, while newer models use RTV sealant instead of a
'Molykote' or its equivalent should be used as a coating on each lifter. gasket. If, when removed, the cover has a gasket, purchase a new
10 Place a small amount of 'Molykote' or its equivalent on each end gasket and place it into position on the cleaned cylinder head. Tighten
of the push rods and install each in its original position. Make sure the the attaching bolts to specifications. If no gasket was used, apply a
push rods are seated properly in the lifter cavity. bead of RTV sealer (or its equivalent) around the entire sealing surface
11 Place each of the rocker arm assemblies back into its original of the cylinder head. This bead should be -g- inch wide. When going
position. Note that on Buick engines the rocker arms and shafts must around bolt holes always go round the inboard side of the holes. Install
be installed as a unit. Be sure to use new plastic retainers when the cover while the sealer is still wet and torque the bolts to
assembling the rocker arms on the shafts. The retainers should be specifications.
14 Install the intake manifold with new gaskets as described in
seated in the shaft holes using a drift punch with a flat tip at least \
in in diameter. Tilt the rocker arm towards the pushrods and locate the Section 12.
15 Install the remaining engine components as described in Section
top of each pushrod in its rocker arm seat. Draw down the shaft
14. Fill the radiator with coolant, start the engine and check for leaks.
assembly by tightening the retaining bolts a little at a time (be sure to
Adjust the ignition timing and valves as required. Be sure to recheck
tighten them to the specified torque).
the coolant level once the engine has warmed up to operating
12 Adjust the valves as described in Section 22.
13 Install the rocker arm covers (valve covers). Early models use a temperature.
 76 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

All other engines

TOP VIEW OF OIL PAN 8 These valves cannot be adjusted. If the clearance is excessive in
the valve train, check that the pivot bolt is tightened to the proper
torque specification (or the nylon retainer is seated). Then inspect for
worn components.

23 Oil pan - removal and installation

With engine installed in vehicle

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and set aside.
3 Remove the distributor cap to prevent breakage as the engine is
raised.
4 Unbolt the radiator shroud from the radiator support and hang the
shroud over the cooling fan.
5 Remove the oil dipstick and dipstick tube.
6 Raise the car and support firmly on jack stands.
7 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
8 Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe at the exhaust manifold
flanges. Lower the exhaust pipes and suspend them from the frame
with wire.
9 If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the converter
underpan.
10 Remove the starter (Chapter 5) and the flywheel cover.
11 Use a bolt at the center of the torsional damper to rotate the
engine until the timing marks indicate the number 1 cylinder is at Top
Dead Center. This will move the forward crankshaft throw upward,
RETAINER RETAINER providing clearance at the front of the oil pan (photo).
INSTALLATION INSTALLATION 12 Remove the through bolt at each engine mount (photo).
EXCEPT AT AT REAR 13 At this time the engine must be raised slightly to enable the oil pan
REAR SEAL - SEAL - 2
8 PLACES to slide clear of the crossmember. The preferred method is to use an
PLACES
engine hoist or 'cherry picker’. Hook up the lifting chains as described
in Section 4.
Fig. 2.10 Oil pan gasket retaining clips are used on some engines 14 An alternative method can be used if extreme care is exercised.
(Sec 23) Use a floor jack and a block of wood placed under the oil pan. The
wood block should spread the load across the oil pan, preventing
damage or collapse of the oil pan metal. The oil pump pickup and
22 Valve lash - adjustment screen is very close to the oil pan bottom, so any collapsing of the pan
may damage the pickup or prevent the oil pump from drawing oil
properly.
Chevrolet engines 1 5 With either method, raise the engine slowly until wood blocks can
1 If the work is being carried out with the engine in the vehicle, the be placed between the frame front crossmember and the engine block.
following preliminary operations must be performed: The blocks should be approximately 3 inches thick. Check clearances
all around the engine as it is raised. Pay particular attention to the
a) Remove the air cleaner distributor and the cooling fan (photo).
b) Disconnect the rocker cover vent hoses and wiring 16 Lower the engine onto the wood blocks. Make sure it is firmly
c) Remove the rocker covers supported. If a hoist is being used, keep the lifting chains secured to
the engine.
Note. Viewed from the radiator end of the engine, cylinders on the
right are numbered 1-3-5-7 and on the left 2-4-6-8, from front to rear. 17 Remove the oil pan bolts. Note the different sizes used and their
locations.
2 Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the torsional damper 18 Remove the oil pan by tilting it downwards at the rear and then
aligns with the center or 0-marking on the timing indicator. If No.1 working the front clear of the crossmember (photo). It may be
cylinder valves are moving, the engine is in No. 6 cylinder firing necessary to use a rubber mallet to break the seal.
position and the crankshaft must be rotated 360°. If No. 1 cylinder 19 Before installing, thoroughly clean the gasket sealing surfaces on
valves are not moving, the piston is at top-dead-center (TDC) which is the engine block and on the oil pan. All sealer and gasket material
correct. must be removed.
3 Back-off the rocker arm stud adjusting nut on No. 1 intake and 20 Apply a thin film of sealer to the new side gaskets and fit them to
exhaust valves in turn, until there is play in the pushrod; tighten the nut the engine block. All bolt holes should line up properly.
to just eliminate play then tighten the nut one complete turn (photo). 21 Again using sealer, install the front and rear seals to the engine.
Note. Experience has shown that it is sometimes difficult to determine Make sure the ends butt with the ends of the side gaskets (photos).
the position where play is just eliminated during lash adjustment. This 22 Lift the pan into position and install all bolts finger-tight. There is
can be simplified by the use of a 0.0015 feeler gauge between the no specific order for torquing the bolts; however it is a good policy to
rocker and valve stem. tighten the end bolts first.
4 With the engine in the No. 1 firing position, as determined in 23 Lower the engine onto its mounts and install the through bolts.
paragraph 2, also adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders 3, 4 and 8 and Torque-tighten these to specifications.
the intake valves of cylinders 2, 5 and 7. 24 Follow the removal steps in a reverse order. Fill the engine with
5 Rotate the crankshaft through 360° to align the torsional damper the correct grade and quantity of oil, start the engine and check for
mark once more, then repeat paragraph 1 for exhaust valves 2, 5 6 leaks.
and 7, and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8.
6 Clean the gasket surfaces of the cylinder head and rocker arm With engine removed from vehicle
cover with solvent and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth.
25 Most of the above steps will not be required if the engine has been
7 Using a new gasket, install the rocker arm cover and torque removed from the car.
tighten the bolts to the specified value.
26 The pan can be simply unbolted and removed from the engine
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 77

block as described in paragraphs 17 and 18. mobile engines, do not attempt to remove the washers from the
27 Follow paragraphs 19 through 22 for installing the oil pan to the driveshaft. Note that the end with the washers fits into the pump.
engine block.
Inspection
3 In most cases it will be more practical and economical to replace
24 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation (1974 through a faulty oil pump with a new or rebuilt unit. If it is decided to overhaul
1977 Buick 350/455 engines) the oil pump, check on internal parts availability before beginning.
4 Remove the the pump cover retaining screws and the pump cover
(Oldsmobile engines also have a gasket installed). Index mark the gear
Removal
teeth to permit reassembly in the same position.
1 Unscrew and remove the oil filter.
5 Remove the idler gear, drivegear and shaft from the body.
2 Remove the screws attaching the oil pump cover assembly to the
6 Remove the pressure regulator valve retaining pin (Pontiac en¬
timing chain cover. Remove the cover assembly and slide out the oil
gines utilize a threaded cap), the regulator valve and the related parts.
pump gear.
7 If necessary, the pick-up screen and pipe assembly can be
extracted from the pump body. Note: On Pontiac engines the oil
Inspection pickup tube/screen assembly should not be disturbed.
3 Wash off the gears with a proper solution and inspect for wear, 8 Wash all the parts in solvent and thoroughly dry them. Inspect the
scoring etc. Replace any unserviceable gears with new ones. body for cracks, wear or other damage. Similarly inspect the gears.
4 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve cap, spring and valve. Do not 9 Check the drive gear shaft for looseness in the pump body, and the
remove the oil filter by-pass valve and spring as they are staked in inside of the pump cover for wear that would permit oil leakage past
place. the end of the gears.
5 Wash the parts thoroughly in the proper solvent and inspect the 10 Inspect the pick-up screen and pipe assembly for damage to the
relief valve for wear and scoring. Check to make sure that the relief screen, pipe or relief grommet.
valve spring is not collapsed or worn on its side. Any relief valve spring 1 1 Apply a gasket sealant to the end of the pipe (pick-up screen and
which is questionable should be replaced with a new one. pipe assembly) and tap it into the pump body taking care that no
6 Check the relief valve in its bore in the cover. It should be an easy damage occurs. If the original press-fit cannot be obtained, a new
slip-fit only, and any side shake can be felt is too much. The valve assembly must be used to prevent air leaks and loss of pressure.
and/or cover should be replaced with a new one in this case. 12 Install the pressure regulator valve and related parts.
7 The filter by-pass valve should be flat and free of nicks, cracks or 1 3 Install the drive gear and shaft in the pump body, followed by the
warping and scratches. idler gear with the smooth side towards the pump cover opening.
8 Lubricate the pressure relief valve and spring and install it in the Note: On Oldsmobile engines check the gear end clearance by resting
bore of the oil pump case. Install the cap and gasket and torque- a straightedge on the pump body. Try to slip a feeler gauge between
tighten to specifications. the ends of the gears and the straightedge. The clearance should be
9 Insert the oil pump gear and shaft into the oil pump body section between 0.0015 to 0.0085 in. If it is not, the pump should be replaced
of the timing chain cover to check the gear end clearance and side with a new one. Lubricate the parts with engine oil.
clearance as follows: 14 Install the cover and torque tighten the screws.
a) Place a straightedge over the gears and measure the 15 Turn the driveshaft to ensure that the pump operates freely.
clearance between the straightedge and gasket surface. This
will be the end clearance and should be between 0.002 - Installation
0.006 in. If less than 0.002, measure the gears and pocket to 1 6 To install, move the pump assembly into position and align the slot
determine which is out of specification. on top end of the driveshaft with the drive tang on the lower end of the
b) Check the oil pump side clearance. Clearance should be distributor. The distributor drives the oil pump so it is essential that
between 0.0025 - 0.0050 in. If clearance is greater than these two components mate properly. On Pontiac and Oldsmobile
0.0050, measure the gears and pocket to determine which is engines the driveshaft fits into the distributor drive gear.
out of specifications. 17 Install the securing bolts and torque-tighten to specifications.
c) Place a straightedge across the oil pump cover face to check Pontiac engines require a new gasket between the pump body and the
for flatness, insert a feeler gauge between the straightedge block.
and the pump cover. Replace the cover with a new one if the 18 Make sure the oil pump screen is parallel with the oil rails. The
clearance is 0.001 in or more. screen must be in this position to fit into the oil pan properly.

10 If all clearances are satisfactory, remove the gears and pack the
pocket full of petroleum jelly. Do not use chassis lube.

Installation
11 Re-install the gears, making sure that petroleum jelly is forced into
every cavity of the gear pocket and between the teeth of the gears. The
pump may not prime itself when the engine is started if the pump is
not packed with the petroleum jelly.
12 Install the pump cover assembly screws and tighten them alter¬
nately and evenly. Torque-tighten to specifications.
13 Install oil filter and check oil level with the dipstick. Pay close
attention to the oil pressure gauge or warning light during the initial
start-up and driving period. Shut off the engine and inspect all work if
a lack of pressure is indicated.

25 Oil pump — removal, inspection and installation (Chevrolet,

Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines - all)

Removal
1 Remove the oil pan as described in Section 23.
2 Remove the bolts securing the oil pump assembly to the rear main
bearing cap. Remove the oil pump with its pickup tube and screen as 26.7 Use a puller to remove the torsional damper
an assembly from the engine block. Once the pump is removed the oil
pump driveshaft can be withdrawn from the block. Note: On Olds¬
78 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

19 Install the oil pan as described in Section 23. Pay close attention area (on damper) with engine oil.
to the oil pressure gauge or warning light during the initial engine
9 Place the damper in position over the key on the crankshaft. Make
start-up period.
sure the damper keyway lines up with the key.
10 Using a torsional damper installer (GM tool J-23523 or
equivalent), draw the damper onto the crankshaft. This tool distributes
26 Torsional damper - removal and installation the draw evenly around the inner hub.
1 1 Remove the installation tool and install the torsional damper
1 Note: If the engine has been removed from the car, disregard the center retaining bolt. Torque to specifications.
following steps which do not apply.
12 Follow the removal procedure in the reverse order for the
2 Loosen the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning remaining components.
compressor (as required) to relieve tension on the drive belts. 13 Adjust the tension of the various belts by referring to Chapter 1.
3 Remove the cooling fan and the radiator shroud.
4 Remove the drive belts, noting the installed positions of each.
5 Remove the fan pulley from the water pump shaft.
27 Oil seal (front cover) - replacement
6 Remove the accessory drive pulley from the torsional damper.
Then remove the torsional damper retaining bolt at the center.
7 Install a special torsional damper (harmonic balancer) remover to
the damper. Draw the damper off the crankshaft, being careful not to With front cover installed on engine
drop it as it breaks free. A common gear puller should not be used
1 With the torsional damper removed (Section 26), pry the old seal
to draw the damper as this may separate the outer portion of the
out of the crankcase front cover with a large screwdriver. On
damper from the inner hub. Only a puller which bolts to the inner
Oldsmobile engines it will probably be necessary to use a special oil
hub should be used.
seal removal tool. Be careful not to damage the front surface of the
8 Before installing the torsional damper, coat the front cover seal crankshaft.

OILFILLER CRANKSHAFT
TUBE BAFFLE SPROCKET

Fig. 2.11 Front cover assembly - Oldsmobile engines (Sec 28)

REMOVE BOLTS MARKED©

FOR COMPLETE REMOVAL.
REVERSE PROCEDURE
FOR INSTALLATION

SEAL
THREADS

Fig. 2.12 Front cover removal and installation details-350 CID Fig. 2.13 Front cover removal and installation details - 455 CID
Buick engines (Sec 28) Buick engines (Sec 28)
 79

TRIM 1/8" FROM

EACH END OF
PAN SEAL

Fig. 2.1 5 Trimming the oil pan seal - Oldsmobile engines (Sec 28)
R.T.V. SEALER
0B6AD82

Fig. 2.14 On Oldsmobile engines, trim the oil pan gasket as shown
before installing the front cover (Sec 28)

GUIDE PAN SEAL WITH

SMALL SCREW DRIVER

Fig. 2.16 Guide the oil pan seal into place with a small screwdriver
Fig. 2.17 Use a sharp knife to trim any protruding oil pan gasket
- Oldsmobile engines (Sec 28)
material - Chevrolet engines (Sec 28)

Fig. 2.19 Correct timing mark alignment - Chevrolet, Oldsmobile

and Pontiac engines (Sec 29)
Fig. 2.18 Correct timing mark alignment - Buick engines (Sec 29)
 80 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

2 Apply sealer around the outside diameter of the seal and place the then install 2^ in - 20 x y in screws at the lower cover holes. Apply
new seal into position with the open end of the seal (seal 'lip') toward a bead of sealer on the bottom of the cover then install the cover,
the inside of the cover. tightening the screws alternately and evenly and at the same time
3 Drive the seal into the cover until it is fully seated. GM tools are aligning the dowel pins.
available for this purpose. These tools are designed to exert even 21 Remove the 2} in - 20 x in screws and install the remaining
pressure around the circumference of the seal as it is hammered into cover bolts. Torque all cover bolts to the proper specifications.
place. A section of large diameter pipe or a large socket could also be 22 Install the water pump using new gaskets.
used. 23 Follow the removal steps in the reverse order for the remaining
4 Take care not to distort the front cover. components.

With front cover removed from engine Installation (Pontiac engines)

5 This method is preferred, as the cover can be supported as the 24 Remove the 0-ring seal from the recess in the intake manifold
new seal is driven into place, preventing the possibility of cover water recirculation passage. Inspect it carefully for re-use.
distortion. 25 Transfer the water pump to the new cover, if used.
6 Remove the crankcase front cover as described in Section 28. 26 If a new fuel pump eccentric and bushing are to be installed at this
7 Pry the old seal out of its bore with a large screwdriver. time, remove the camshaft retainer bolt and the washer, eccentric and
8 Support the inside of the cover, around the seal area and install bushing. When installing, index the tang on the eccentric with the hole
the new seal in the same fashion as described above. in the camshaft sprocket.
27 Position a new gasket over the studs against the engine block. If
the oil pan gasket was damaged during removal, new front portions
28 Crankcase front cover - removal and installation should be cemented in place on the oil pan flanges.
28 Install the O-ring into the intake manifold passage.
Removal (all engines) 29 Place the cover in position over the indexing studs and secure with
1 Note: If the engine has been removed from the vehicle, disregard the bolts and nuts. Install the oil-pan-to-timing cover screws after the
other fasteners are installed.
any of the following steps which do not apply.
2 Disconnect the negative battery cable. If equipped with a Buick 30 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of disas¬
engine, remove the alternator and brackets as well as the distributor sembly referring to the appropriate Sections in this Chapter or other
(Chapter 5). Chapters.
3 Drain the cooling system and disconnect the radiator hoses, Installation (Buick engines)
heater hose (where applicable) and the small by-pass hose (except
31 Before re-installing, remove the oil pump cover and pack pet¬
Chevrolet engine).
roleum jelly around the oil pump gears so that there is no air space left
4 If equipped with an Oldsmobile engine, remove the top radiator
inside the pump. If this is not done, the pump may "lose its prime" and
support, the fan shroud and the radiator (Chapter 3).
not begin pumping oil immediately when the engine is started.
5 Remove all belts, the fan and fan pulley, the crankshaft drive pulley
32 Re-install the pump cover, using a new gasket, and torque the
and the torsional damper (harmonic balancer).
bolts to specifications.
6 If equipped with a Chevrolet engine, remove the water pump
33 Make sure that the gasket surface of the block and timing chain
(Chapter 3). If equipped with a Pontiac or Buick engine, remove the
fuel pump. cover are smooth and clean and install a new gasket on the cover.
34 Lubricate the harmonic balancer shaft where it will go through the
7 Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the cover to the engine,
timing chain cover seal so that the seal will not be damaged when the
then pull the cover free. Pontiac and Buick engines have bolts
engine is first started.
attaching the oil pan to the cover (Pontiac engies also have a bolt that
35 Using the dowel pins on the block, engage the dowel holes in the
threads into the intake manifold).
cover and position the cover against the block.
8 Using vise-grip pliers, pull the dowel pins (if equipped) out of the
36 Apply sealer to the bolt threads (see illustration) and tighten the
engine block. Grind a chamfer on one end of each pin. Thoroughly
bolts to specifications.
clean all gasket mating surfaces (do not allow the old gasket material
37 Install the harmonic balancer, bolt and washer. Use a screwdriver
to fall into the oil pan), then wipe them with a cloth soaked in solvent.
or other such tool to lock the flex plate or flywheel starter teeth and
tighten the harmonic balancer bolt to the specified torque.
Installation (Oldsmobile engines)
9 Cut off the excess gasket material at the front of the oil pan until
it is flush with the engine block.
29 Timing chain and sprockets - removal and installation
10 Using a razor knife, trim about ^-in from each end of the new front
pan seal.
1 Note: if the engine has been removed from the vehicle, disregard
11 Install a new gasket to the engine block and a new front seal on
the following steps which do not apply.
the cover. Use RTV gasket sealant on these gaskets and also at the
junction of the cover, block and oil pan. 2 Remove the torsional damper and front cover as described in
previous Sections. On Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines, remove the
12 Tilt the cover into place and press downward to compress the
fuel pump drive eccentric by unscrewing the bolt from the end of the
lower pan seal. Rotate the cover back and forth and guide the pan seal
into the cavity using a small screwdriver. camshaft (photo). Some Buick engines have a distributor drive gear
mounted in front of the fuel pump eccentric (when removing them,
13 Apply engine oil to the bolt threads and loosely install 2 of the
bolts to hold the cover in place. note how they are aligned with each other and the camshaft). On
Buick and Oldsmobile engines, slide the oil slinger off of the end of the
14 Install the dowel pins, chamfered end first, into the engine block.
crankshaft.
1 5 Install the water pump with a new gasket (if removed from cover).
3 To facilitate installation (if the engine is not being totally disas¬
16 Tighten all bolts to the proper torque specifications an install all
sembled), turn the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft and
components in the reverse order of removal. Apply lubricant to the
crankshaft sprockets are perfectly aligned, opposite each other. DO
front hub seal before installing the crankshaft hub.
NOT attempt to remove either sprocket or the chain until this is done.
Also, do not turn the camshaft or the crankshaft after the sprockets are
Installation (Chevrolet engines) removed.
1 7 Ensure that all gasket surfaces are clean and free of excess gasket
4 On Chevrolet engines and 455 CID Buick engines, remove the
material.
bolts that attach the sprocket to the end of the camshaft. Also, on 455
18 Use a sharp knife to trim any protruding gasket material at the
CID Buick engines, the oil pan must be removed in order to slide the
front of the oil pan.
sprocket off of the crankshaft.
1 9 Apply a ^--in bead of RTV gasket sealer to the joint formed at the
5 Generally speaking, the camshaft sprocket, the crankshaft
oil pan and engine block, as well as the front lip of the oil pan.
sprocket and the timing chain can be slipped off the shafts together.
20 Coat the cover gasket with a non-setting sealant, position it on the
If resistance is encountered, it may be necessary to use 2 large
cover then loosely install the cover. First install the top 4 bolts loosely,
screwdrivers to carefully pry the sprockets off of the shafts. If extreme
29.2 Removing fuel pump drive eccentric (Pontiac engine shown) 29.5 When using a puller to draw the crankshaft gear off the
crankshaft, be careful not to damage the threads on the end of the
crankshaft

30.8 Removing the camshaft thrust plate (Pontiac engine) 30.9 When pulling the camshaft from the engine, support it near the
block (as shown) and pull slowly so the bearings are not damaged

32.5 Pieces of rubber hose pushed over the rod bolts will protect the
32.2 With the piston at the bottom of its travel, a ridge reamer is used
to remove the ridge or built-up carbon from the top of the cylinder crankshaft and cylinders
 82 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

replaced in their original positions. Refer to Section 20 for removal

information.
5 Remove the front grille (Chapter 12).
6 Remove the radiator, shroud, air conditioning condenser and hood
catch support as necessary to provide clearance for the camshaft as it
is drawn from the engine.
7 Remove the fuel pump and fuel pump push rod (Chevrolet engines
only) (Chapter 4).
8 Remove the torsional damper (Section 26), the crankcase front
cover (Section 28) and the camshaft sprocket/timing chain (Section
29). Install two ^ in - 18x4 in bolts into the camshaft bolt holes (if
equipped) to be used as grips to pull on the camshaft. Note that
Pontiac engines have a thrust plate (photo) installed in front of the
camshaft (remove the 2 bolts that attach the plate to the engine
block).
9 Carefully draw the camshaft out of the engine block. Do this very
slowly to avoid damage to the camshaft bearings as the journals pass
through the bearing surfaces. Always support the camshaft with one
hand near the engine block (photo).
Fig. 2.20 Drive plate (automatic transmission) installed position
10 Before installing the camshaft, coat each of the lobes and journals
(Sec 33)
liberally with 'Molykote' or its equivalent.
11 Slide the camshaft into the engine block, again taking extra care
resistance is encountered (which may happen with the crankshaft not to damage the bearings.
sprocket), a gear puller will be required. It should be noted that on 12 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal,
Oldsmobile engines, the key that indexes the sprocket to the referring to the appropriate Sections where necessary.
crankshaft must be removed before sliding or pulling the sprocket off 13 Adjust the valve lash as described in Section 22.
of the shaft.
6 If the crankshaft and the camshaft are not disturbed while the
timing chain and sprockets are out of place, then installation can begin 31 Camshaft and bearings - inspection and servicing
with step 9. If the engine is completely dismantled, or if the crankshaft
or camshaft are disturbed while the timing chain is off, then the No. 1 1 Examine the bearing surfaces and the surfaces of the cam lobes.
piston must be positioned at TDC before the timing chain and Surface scratches, if very shallow, can be removed by rubbing with a
sprockets are installed. fine emery cloth or an oilstone. Any deep scoring will necessitate a
7 Align the hole in the camshaft sprocket with the dowel pin in the new camshaft.
end of the camshaft, then slip the socket onto the end of the camshaft. 2 If the bearings are worn, they can be extracted using a suitable
On Buick engines, turn the camshaft until the timing mark on the tool (GM tool set No. J-6098 is designed for this purpose). Note: It
sprocket is pointed straight down. Note: On Chevrolet, Pontiac and will be necessary to drive out the camshaft rear plug from the block.
Oldsmobile engines, with the No. 1 piston at TDC, the timing mark on 3 New bearings are installed using the same tool set, but it is
the camshaft sprocket must be pointed straight up. necessary to align the cam bearing oil holes following the manufac¬
8 Slip the crankshaft sprocket onto the end of the crankshaft (make turer's instructions supplied with the installation/removal tool.
sure the key and keyway are properly aligned), then turn the crankshaft
until the timing mark on the sprocket is pointed straight up (all
engines).
32 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - removal
9 Next, remove the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft and lay the
chain over it. Slip the other end of the chain over the camshaft 1 Remove the oil pan, oil pump and cylinder heads as described
sprocket (try to keep the timing marks aligned as this is done) and previously in this Chapter.
reinstall the camshaft sprocket. When the sprockets are properly 2 Before the piston assemblies can be forced up through the top of
installed, the timing marks on the sprockets will be perfectly aligned, the engine block, a ridge reamer should be used to remove the ridge
opposite each other (except on Chevrolet, Pontiac and Oldsmobile and/or carbon deposits at the top of each cylinder (photo). Working on
engines; refer to the accompanying illustrations and step 7). one cylinder at a time, turn the engine so the piston is at the bottom
10 On Chevrolet engines and 455 CID Buick engines, install the bolts of its stroke. Then place a rag on top of the piston to catch the
that attach the sprocket to the camshaft, then recheck the alignment cuttings. After the ridge is removed, crank the engine until the piston
of the timing marks. On Oldsmobile engines, install the crankshaft key is at the top of the cylinder and remove the cloth and cuttings. Failure
after the sprocket is in place (use a brass hammer to seat the key in to remove this ridge may cause damage to the piston rings, pistons or
the keyway). cylinder walls.
1 1 The rest of the installation procedure is basically the reverse of 3 Inspect the connecting rods and connecting rod caps for cylinder
removal. On Pontiac engines, the camshaft should extend through the identification. If these components are not plainly marked, identify
sprocket so that the hole in the fuel pump drive eccentric will locate on each using a small punch to make the appropriate number of
the end of the shaft. Install the eccentric and index the tangs on the indentations (left bank - 1, 3, 5, 7, right bank - 2, 4, 6, 8).
eccentric with the small hole in the sprocket hub. On 350 CID Buick 4 Working in sequence, remove the nuts on the connecting rod stud
engines, make sure the oil groove in the eccentric faces out. and lift the cap (with bearing inside) off the crankshaft. Place the
12 Be sure to tighten the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket retaining connecting rod cap and bearing on a clean work surface marked
bolts to the specified torque.
cylinder 1,2,3, etc.
5 Push a piece of rubber or plastic tubing over the connecting rod
30 Camshaft - removal and installation studs to completely cover the studs. This is important asthese studs
could easily damage the crankshaft or cylinder wall when the piston
1 Note: If the engine has been removed from the car, disregard the assembly is removed (photo).
following steps which do not apply. Since this procedure requires air 6 Push the piston/connecting rod assembly out through the top of
conditioning disconnection, take the car to a dealer or specialist for the cylinder. Place the piston with its connecting rod next to its rod cap
A/C de-pressurization. on the sequenced work area.
2 Remove the intake manifold as described in Section 12. 7 Repeat these procedures for the remaining seven cylinders turning
3 Remove the push rods from the lifters. In order to do this, the the crankshaft as necessary to gain access to the connecting rod nuts.
rocker covers must be removed, and the rocker arm assemblies Reuse the rubber or plastic tubing for each assembly.
loosened or removed. Further information on this can be found in 8 Remove the bearings from the connecting rods and the connecting
Section 14. rod caps. This is easily done with a small screwdriver. If the engine has
4 Remove the valve lifters, keeping each separate so they can be many miles, it is false economy to reuse the bearings, but if they are
33.2 Use a center punch to hold the flywheel 35.3 Use a center punch to put small marks on 35.7 Gently pry the main bearings loose from
in place while the bolts are loosened the bearing caps to identify each for the engine block
reassembly in its original position

.004 SHIM STOCK

1 2-
■ /

1 1 /64

Fig 2 22 Neoprene type crankshaft rear oil seal installation tool

(Sec 36)

Fig. 2.21 Removing crankshaft rear oil seal upper half (neoprene
type seal) with engine in car (Sec 36)

NOTE:
=L • 1/2 DIA.

BREAK ALL SHARP CORNERS

5/16

---
2-1/2'R. MIN.
4 .
1
-r
M7/641
1-3/4-
-11/64’
8 APPROX.-

Fig. 2.24 Packing tool fabrication details - braided fabric type Fig. 2.23 Packing upper half of braided fabric type crankshaft rear
Crankshaft rear oil seal (Sec 36) oil seal into block (Sec 36)

V J
 84 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

to be reinstalled place them in a numbered rack.

9 If a piston ring expanding tool is available, use this to remove each 35 Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals - removal
of the rings from the piston. An alternative method is to expand the
ring just enough to clear the lands of the piston body. Then place strips 1 The crankshaft and main bearings should only be removed with
of tin (about in. wide) under the ring at equal distances around the the engine removed from the car.
piston. Using a slight twisting motion, 'walk' the ring up the piston and 2 The engine should be completely stripped of its components as
off the top.
described in the previous Sections of this Chapter.
10 Place the rings, in their 'installed' order adjacent to the 3 Check that each of the 5 main bearing caps is marked in respect
piston/connecting rod on your numbered work area. to its location in the engine block. If not, use a punch to make small
1 1 Separating the connecting rod from the piston requires the indentations in the same fashion as for the connecting rods and caps
removal of the piston pin. This job is best left to a dealer or automotive (photo). The main bearing caps must be reinstalled in their original
machine shop equipped with the proper support tools and an arbor positions.
press.
4 Unbolt the main bearing caps, and lift each cap and its correspond¬
12 Do not take the time to clean and inspect the piston/rod ing bearing off the crankshaft. Place all main bearing caps and
assemblies at this time as they may have to be replaced with new bearings on a workspace numbered to correspond with the position of
units depending on the condition of the cylinder block and/or the caps in the engine block.
crankshaft.
5 Lift the crankshaft from the engine block. Be careful not to
damage it in any way.
6 Remove the two halves of the rear main bearing oil seal.
33 Flywheel - removal and installation 7 Remove the main bearings from the cylinder block and the main
bearing caps, keeping them separated as to their positions (photo).
1 The flywheel may be unbolted from the crankshaft rear flange after 8 The crankshaft gear at the front of the crank can be removed by
the removal of the transmission and in the case of a manual using a special puller designed for this purpose.
transmission, unbolting the clutch housing and clutch (refer to
Chapters 7 and 8).
2 To prevent the crankshaft from turning as the bolts are loosened, 36 Rear main oil seal — replacement (engine in car)
place a block of wood between one of the crankshaft throws and the
side of the engine block. An alignment tool pushed through the 1 Always replace both halves of the rear main oil seal as a unit.
flywheel and against the engine block will also work (photo). While the replacement of this seal is much easier with the engine
3 Before installing the flywheel, clean the mating surfaces of the removed from the car, as in a total engine rebuild, the job can be done
flywheel and the crankshaft. with the engine in place.
4 With manual transmissions, install the flywheel by aligning the 2 Remove the oil pan and oil pump as described prevously in this
dowel hole in the crankshaft with the dowel hole in the flywheel. Chapter.
5 With automatic transmissions, install the flywheel with the torque 3 Remove the rear main bearing cap from the engine.
converter attaching pads toward the transmission.
Chevrolet engines (neoprene type seal)
6 Tighten the bolts a little at a time until the proper torque
4 Using a screwdriver, pry the lower half of the oil seal from the
specification is attained. It is a good idea to use a thread sealing agent
bearing cap.
(like Locktite) on the bolt threads. Again, use a block of wood or a
5 To remove the upper half of the seal, use a small hammer and a
centerpunch tool against the block to prevent the flywheel from
turning as the bolts are tightened. brass pin punch to roll the seal around the crankshaft journal. Tap one
end of the seal with the hammer and punch (be careful not to strike the
crankshaft) until the other end of the seal protrudes enough to pull the
seal out with a pair of pliers.
34 Flywheel and starter ring gear - inspection
6 Clean all sealant and foreign material from the cylinder bearing
cap and case. Do not use an abrasive cleaner for this.
1 Examine the starter ring gear for broken or chipped teeth. If 7 Inspect components for nicks, scratches or burrs at all sealing
evident, the flywheel must be replaced with a new one. surfaces.
2 On manual transmission versions, examine for scoring on the 8 Coat the seal lips of the new seal with light engine oil. Do not get
clutch friction face. Light scoring may be dressed out using emery oil on the seal mating ends.
cloth, but where there is deep scoring the flywheel must be replaced 9 Included in the purchase of the rear main oil seal should be a small
with a new one or clutch damage will soon occur.
plastic installation tool. If not included, make your own by cutting an
3 On automatic transmission models, examine the converter secur¬ old feeler gauge blade.
ing bolt holes for elongation.
10 Position the narrow end of this installation tool between the
4 Replace the driveplate complete if either the starter ring gear is crankshaft and the seal seat. The idea is to protect the new seal from
worn or the mounting bolt holes are elongated. being damaged by the sharp edge of the seal seat.

36.13 Installing the lower half of the neoprene 36.14 Sealant should be used where the rear 37.7 Measuring the cylinder diameter
type rear main bearing seal in the bearing cap main cap touches the engine block
(note the installation tool)
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 85

be purchased.
4 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring
and scratches. These checks are important for proper operation of the
pistons and piston rings.
5 Scoring and scratches can usually be seen with the naked eye and
felt with the fingers. If they are deep, the engine block may have to be
replaced with a new one. If the imperfections are slight, a qualified
machine shop should be able to hone or bore the cylinders to a larger
size.
6 There are two indicators for excessive wear of the cylinders. First,
if the vehicle was emitting blue smoke from the exhaust system before
engine dismantling. This blue smoke is caused by oil seeping past the
piston rings due to the wear of the cylinder walls. Second, the
thickness of the ridge at the top of the cylinder (which may have been
removed during piston removal) can give an indication about overall
cylinder wear.
7 Using an internal-type dial gauge, measure each bore at three
different points (photo). Take a measurement near the top of the bore
and then near the bottom of the bore. Finally, measure at the center.
Jot down all measurements to determine the taper of the cylinder
Fig. 2.25 Use the bearing cap as a holding fixture when cutting (slightly larger at the top than the bottom or vice versa).
short sections off the old seal (Sec 36) 8 An out of round condition can be found in a similar fashion, except
measure the cylinder first parallel with the engine centerline and then
turn the dial gauge until it is perpendicular with the centerline (180
11 Raise the new upper half of the seal into position with the seal lips degrees from first measurement).
facing towards the front of the engine. Push the seal onto its seat, 9 Where the cylinder bores are worn beyond the permitted toler¬
using the installation tool as a protector against the seal contacting the ances as shown in the Specifications Section, the block will have to be
sharp edge. replaced with a new one, honed or bored.
12 Roll the seal around the crankshaft, all the time using the tool as 10 A final check of the cylinder block would include an inspection for
a 'shoehorn' for protection. When both ends of the seal are flush with warpage. This is done with a straightedge and feeler gauges in the
the engine block, remove the installation tool being careful not to same manner as for the cylinder heads. The tolerances described in
Section 17 also apply to the cylinder block. If warpage is slight, a
withdraw the seal as well.
13 Install the lower half of the oil seal in the bearing cap, again using machine shop can resurface the block.
the installation tool to protect the seal against the sharp edge (photo).
Make sure the seal is firmly seated, then withdraw the installation
tools. 38 Engine - rebuilding alternatives
14 Smear a bit of sealant to the bearing cap areas immediately
adjacent to the seal ends (photo). 1 At this point in the engine rebuilding process the home mechanic
1 5 Install the bearing cap (with seal) and torque the attaching bolts to is faced with a number of options for completing the overhaul. The
about 10-12 ft. lb only. Now tap the end of the crankshaft first decision to replace the cylinder block, piston/rod assemblies and
rearward, then forward to line up the thrust surfaces. Retorque the crankshaft depend on a number of factors with the number one
bearing cap bolts to the proper specification. consideration being the condition of the cylinder block. Other consider¬
ations are: cost, competent machine shop facilities, parts availability,
Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines (braided fabric time available to complete the project and experience.
type seal) 2 Some of the rebuilding alternatives are as follows:
16 With the oil pan, oil pump and main bearing cap removed (see Individual parts - if the inspection procedures prove that the
previous Sections), insert the special GM seal packing tool or engine block and most engine components are in reusable condition,
equivalent brass punch against the seal. Drive the old seal into its this may be the most economical alternative. The block, crankshaft and
groove until it is packed tight at each end. piston/rod assemblies should all be inspected carefully. Even if the
17 Measure the amount which the seal was driven upwards, then add block shows little wear, the cylinder bores should be honed and the
ij-in. Cut 2 pieces that length from the old seal taken from the bearing camshaft bearings replaced with new ones; both jobs for a machine
cap. Use the bearing cap as a guide when cutting. shop.
18 Place a drop of sealant on each end of these seal pieces and then Master kit (crankshaft kit) - This rebuild package usually consists
pack them into the upper groove to fill the gap made previously. of a reground crankshaft and a matched set of pistons and connecting
19 Trim the remaining material perfectly flush with the block. Be rods. The pistons will come already installed with new piston pins to
careful not to harm the bearing surface. the connecting rods. Piston rings and the necessary bearings may or
20 Install a new rope seal into the main bearing cap groove and push may not be included in the kit. These kits are commonly available for
firmly all around using a hammer handle or special GM tool. Make sure standard cylinder bores, as well as for engine blocks which have been
the seal is firmly seated, then trim the ends flush with the bearing cap bored to a regular oversize.
mating surface. Short block - A short block consists of a cylinder block with a
21 Install cap and remaining components in reverse order, tightening crankshaft and piston/rod assemblies already installed. All new bear¬
all parts to specifications. ings are incorporated and all clearances will be within tolerances.
Depending on where the short block is purchased, a guarantee may be
included. The existing camshaft, valve mechanism, cylinder heads and
37 Cylinder block - inspection ancillary parts can be bolted to this short block with little or no
machine shop work necessary for the engine overhaul.
1 It is important that the cylinder block be inspected carefully and as Long block - A long block, called a 'Target' engine by GM
described. The cylinder block was designed to operate with exacting dealerships consists of a short block plus oil pump, oil pan, cylinder
tolerances, and if the engine is reassembled without first properly heads, valve covers, camshaft and valve mechanism, camshaft gear,
inspecting the block, all work and cost involved in the rebuild may be timing chain and crankcase front cover. All components are installed
for nothing. with new bearings, seals and gaskets incorporated throughout. The
2 Clean the cylinder block as necessary to remove built-up sludge installation of manifolds and ancillary parts is all that is necessary.
and grime. Clean all excess gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Some form of guarantee is usually included with purchase.
3 Inspect the cylinder block for cracks in the cylinder walls, water 3 Give careful thought to which method is best for your situation
jacket, valve lifter bores and main bearing webs. Use a flashlight where and discuss the alternatives with local machine shop owners, parts
necessary. In most cases, cracks will require that a new engine block dealers or GM dealership partsmen.
 86
Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

feeler gauge between the connecting rod caps. If the side clearance is
outside the specified tolerance, replace the rod assembly. This
procedure is detailed in Section 44.

40 Piston and connecting rod assemblies - cleaning and inspec¬

tion

1 In most cases where the engine has seen high mileage, the
original pistons will have to be replaced with new ones. This is
because the cylinders will have to be bored to a larger size to
compensate for normal wear. If however the cylinder walls require only
a slight finish honing, the old pistons may be reused if they are in good
condition.
2 Wash the connecting rods and pistons in a cleaning solvent and
dry with compressed air, if available.
3 Don't use a wire brush or any abrasive cleaning tools on any part
of the piston.
4 Clean the ring grooves of the piston with a groove cleaner tool and
make sure the oil ring holes and slots are clean (photo).
5 Check the rods for twist and bending and inspect the rods for nicks
or cracks. If any of the above items are found, the rod must be replaced
with a new one.
6 Inspect the piston for cracked ring lands, skirts or pin bosses.
Check for worn or wavy ring lands, scuffed or damaged skirts and
eroded areas at the top of the piston. Replace any pistons that are
damaged or show signs of excessive wear.
7 Inspect the ring grooves for nicks which may cause the rings to
hang up.
8 With the piston still connected to the connecting rod, swivel the
rod back and forth and noting the degree of difficulty. Compare all
piston/rod assemblies. If the rods seem loose on the piston pins, and
move with little or no drag, the piston pins have worn and the piston
pin must be replaced.
9 If the cylinder block is in need of any machine work, even finish
honing, chances are that the machinist will want the pistons on hand
to check piston-to-bore clearance as the cylinder walls are cut. This
measurement is critical and should be left to the machine shop.

Fig. 2.26 Piston ring gap positions (Sec 41)

41 Pistons and piston rings - assembly

1 The piston should be attached to its appropriate connecting rod.

As mentioned previously, this is a job for a professional equipped with
39 Crankshaft and bearings - inspection and servicing
the proper supports and an arbor press.
2 The new piston rings should be comparable in size to the piston
1 Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for scoring, being used.
scratches or corrosion. If evident, then the crankshaft will have to be
3 The installation of the piston rings on the piston is critical to the
reground professionally.
overall performance of the rebuilt engine.
2 Using a micrometer, measure each journal and crankpin at several
4 Measure the ring end gap of each ring before it is installed in the
different points for ovality (photo). If this is found to be more than piston. This is done as follows:
0.001 inch then the crankshaft must be reground. Undersize bearings
are available to suit the recommended reground diameter, but nor¬ a) Arrange the piston rings into sets for each piston. The set will
mally your GM dealer will supply the correct matching bearings with contain a top ring, 2nd ring and a three-piece oil control ring
the reconditioned crankshaft. (two rails and a spacer).
3 After a high mileage, the main bearings and the connecting rod b) Slip a top ring into the appropriate cylinder bore. Push the
bearings may have worn to give an excessive running clearance. The ring into the cylinder bore at the bottom of ring travel. Push
correct running clearance for the different journals is given in the the ring down into position with the top of a piston to make
Specifications. The clearance is best checked using a product such as sure the ring is square with the cylinder wall (photo).
Plastigage having refitted the original bearings and caps and c) Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the ends of
tightened the cap bolts to the torque values listed in Specifications. the ring (photo). If the gap is less than specified (see
Never attempt to correct excessive running clearance by filing the caps Specifications), remove the ring and try another top ring for
but always fit new shell bearings, having first checked the crankshaft fit.
journals and crankpins for ovality and to establish whether their d) Check all top rings in the same manner and if necessary use
diameters are of standard or reground sizes. a fine file to remove a slight amount of material from the ends
4 Checking the connecting rod bearings is carried out in a similar of the ring(s). If inadequate end gap is used, the rings will
manner to that described for the main bearings. The correct running break during operation.
clearance is given in the Specifications. e) Measure the end gap of each 2nd ring and oil control ring as
5 It is good practice to check the running clearance of rod and main described above.
bearings even if new bearings are installed. The use of Plastigage' is 5 Check the fit of each piston ring into its groove by holding the ring
described in Section 43.
next to the piston and then placing the outer surface of the ring into
6 The crankshaft endplay should be checked by forcing the its respective groove. Roll the ring entirely around the piston and check
crankshaft to the extreme front position, then using a feeler gauge at for any binding. If the binding is due to a distorted ring, replace the ring
the front end of the rear main bearing. Refer to the Specifications for with a new one. Perform this check for the top and 2nd rings of each
the permissible clearance. This procedure is detailed in Section 45. piston.
7 The connecting rod side-clearance should be measured with a 6 Install the piston rings as follows:
39.2 Measuring a crankshaft journal 40.4 Cleaning the piston ring grooves with a 41.4a Use the top of a piston to push the
special tool made especially for this purpose piston ring into its bore for measuring the end
gap

41,4b Measure the piston ring end gap with a 41,6a Installing the oil ring spacer 41.6b A piston ring expanding tool eases ring
feeler gauge removal and installation

41.7 Use a feeler gauge to measure the 42.2A Use a hammer and a center punch to
41,6c Most piston rings will be marked with a
clearance between piston ring and piston ring push the freeze plug into the block
small dimple to indicate the top side
groove

42.2c A special installation tool (a suitably 43.4 Installing a main bearing half into the
42.2b Pliers are then used to pull the freeze
sized socket or a block of softwood can also be engine block
plug out of the engine block
used) is used to force the new plugs into the
bores
 43.7 Tightening a main bearing cap bolt with a 43.8 The flattened Plastigage is then
torque wrench 43.1 1 Put a length of Plastigage on the
measured using the scale printed on the crankshaft journal (arrow) and install the rod
package cap and bearing on top of it

44.2 A feeler gauge is used to measure 45.9 Measuring crankshaft end-play with a 46.7 Most pistons will be marked (as shown)
connecting rod side clearance once the feeler gauge between the rear cap and rear in some way to indicate installation toward the
piston/rod assemblies are installed throw front of the engine

46.8a With the piston ring compressor around 46.8b A wood hammer handle can be used to
the piston, it is sometimes necessary to tap the 46.10 Tightening a connecting rod nut with a
push the piston/connecting rod assembly into torque wrench
compressor lightly to seat the rings the engine block

47.6 The pre-oiling tool (right) has the gear 47.7 A common drill motor connects to the 47.8 Oil and/or assembly grease will spurt
and the advance weights ground off modified distributor to turn the oil pump from the rocker arms to indicate that the
lubrication system is functioning properly
 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine 89

a) Study the accompanying illustration to understand exactly b) Do not rotate the crankshaft while the Plastigage is installed
where each ring gap should be located in relation to the in the engine as this may cause damage to the crankshaft or
piston and other rings. The location of each ring gap is bearing surfaces.
important. c) Remove all traces of the Plastigage when testing is complete.
b) if a piston ring expander tool is available, use this to install Be very careful not to harm the crankshaft or bearing surfaces
the rings, if not, small lengths of tin can be used to prevent as the Plastigage is removed. Do not use sharp tools or
the rings from entering the wrong groove (see Section 32 on abrasive cleaners, instead, remove the used Plastigage with
piston ring removal). your fingernail or a blunt wood stick.
c) Install the bottom oil ring spacer in its groove and insert the 2 Whenever an engine is overhauled the bearing clearances should
anti-rotation tang in the oil hole (photo). Hold the spacer ends be checked. This should be done for reused bearings as well as for new
butted and install the lower steel oil ring rail with the gap
bearings.
properly located. Install the upper steel oil ring rail and 3 The procedure is basically the same for both the main bearings
properly set its gap. Flex or squeeze the oil ring assembly to and the connecting rod bearings.
make sure it is free in the groove, if not, dress the groove with 4 With the crankshaft set into the engine block, install the main
a file or replace the oil control ring assembly as necessary. bearings into the engine block and the main bearing caps (photo).
d) Install the 2nd ring (photo) and properly locate its gap. Note 5 Remove all oil, grime and foreign materials from the crankshaft
that the rings are marked with a dimple to indicate which side
and bearing surfaces.
should face up (photo). 6 Place a piece of Plastigage (available at most auto supply shops)
e) Install the top ring with gap properly positioned. along the length of each main bearing journal on the crankshaft.
f) Repeat the above procedures for all piston assemblies. 7 Install each main bearing cap and tighten the attaching bolts to
1 Proper clearance of the piston rings in their grooves is very specifications (photo). The arrow on each cap should face toward the
important. Clearance between the ring and its groove is checked with front of the engine.
a blade feeler gauge, sliding the appropriately sized feeler gauge (see 8 Now remove each bearing cap and measure the width of the
Specifications) between the top of the ring and the inside of the groove Plastigage strip which will have flattened out when the caps were
(photo). Rotate the feeler blade all the way around the piston, checking tightened. A scale is provided on the Plastigage envelope for measur¬
for proper clearance. Replace rings or clean and dress the groove as ing the width of the Plastigage strip, and thus, bearing clearance
necessary for proper clearance. (photo).
9 If the Plastigage is flattened more at the ends than in the middle,
or vice versa, this is an indication of journal taper which can be
42 Engine assembly - general information checked in the Specifications Section.
10 To test for an out of round condition, remove all traces of the
1 Before assembling any parts to the engine block, the.block should Plastigage (be careful not to damage the crankshaft or bearing
have all necessary machine work completed and the engine block surfaces) and rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees. With the crankshaft
should be thoroughly cleaned. If machine work was performed, rotated to this point, use the Plastigage to check the clearances again.
chances are that the block was hot-tanked afterward to remove all Compare these measurements with those taken previously to arrive at
traces of the machined cuttings. eccentricity or out of round.
2 The oil galleys and water passages of the block should also be 11 To check connecting rod bearing clearances, install each
thoroughly clean and free from dirt or machining leftovers. It's good piston/rod assembly (Section 46) and use the Plastigage as described
practice to install new freeze plugs in the engine whenever it is above (photo).
stripped for a total overhaul. These plugs are difficult to replace once 1 2 Connecting rod side clearance (Section 44) can also be checked at
the engine has been assembled and installed. If the engine was sent this time.
out for machine work and hot-tanking, it may be best to let the 13 If the bearings have shown to be within all tolerances, they may
machine shop remove and install new plugs. If they are to be done at be installed following the steps outlined in the appropriate sections.
home, proceed as follows: 14 If not within specifications, the bearings should be replaced with
the correctly sized bearings. Upper and lower bearings should always
a) Use a hammer and punch to press one side of the plug into
be replaced as a unit.
the block (photo).
b) Use pliers to pry the old freeze plug out of its recess (photo).
c) Place a suitable replacement plug into position and hammer
into place until flush with the engine block. Special installa¬ 44 Connecting rod side clearance - checking
tion tools are available for pressing the plug into place,
however a suitable sized socket will work fine (photo). 1 Side clearance can be checked with the piston/rod assemblies
temporarily installed for bearing clearance checking.
3 Clean and examine all bolts, nuts and fasteners. Replace any that
2 With the piston/rod assemblies installed and the bearing caps
are damaged. tightened to specifications, use a screwdriver to spread the rods apart
4 Clean and cover all engine components to keep dirt and dust away
then insert feeler gauges (photo) to check the clearance between the
from them until they can be installed.
sides of the connecting rods.
5 Have assembly grease and an oil can filled with engine oil handy
3 If the clearance at this point is below the minimum tolerance, the
to lubricate parts as they are installed. rod may be machined for more clearance at this area.
6 Lay out all necessary tools and a reliable torque wrench on a clean
4 If the clearance is too excessive, a new rod must be used or the
work table for easy retrieval. crankshaft must be reground or replaced with a new one.
7 New gaskets and seals must be used throughout. These are
commonly available together in a master rebuild gasket set.
8 In almost all cases, parts to be replaced during a major overhaul
include: camshaft bearings, connecting rod bearings, main bearings, 45 Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seal - installation
piston rings, timing chain, spark plugs and oil filter. These are in
1 Note: If a new or reground crankshaft is being installed, or if the
addition to any parts found damaged or excessively worn during
original crankshaft has been reground, make sure the correct bearings
dismantling or the various inspection processes.
are being used.
2 Install the rear main bearing oil seal. The upper half of the seal
43 Main bearings and rod bearings - checking clearance should be positioned on its cylinder block seat and the lower half on
the rear main bearing cap. Install neoprene type seals (Chevrolet
1 Note: There are three precautions to take when working with engines) with the lips toward the front of the engine. Where two lips
Plastigage. These are: are incorporated, install lip with helix towards the front of the engine.
Use the protector installation tool when installing the neoprene seal
a) Plastigage is soluble in oil, so all oil and grease should be
halves. (See Section 36 for use of installation tool and further
removed from the crankshaft and bearing surfaces while the
information) Note: If installing fabric type seals (used on Buick,
testing is done.
 90 Chapter 2 Part A V8 engine

Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines), refer to Section 93, Chapter 2B, for remainder of the components (cylinder heads, oil pump, camshaft,
the procedure to follow.
etc.) can be installed following the installation procedures located in
3 Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil. the various sections of this Chapter.
4 Install the main bearings in the cylinder block and main bearing 2 Follow the engine disassembly sequence in the reverse order of
caps. Lubricate the bearing surfaces with engine oil. installation, using new gaskets where necessary.
5 Lower the crankshaft into position, being careful not to damage
3 Adjust the valve lash as described in Section 22 (Chevrolet
the bearing surfaces. engines only).
6 Apply a thin coat of brush-on sealer to the block mating surface
4 After a major overhaul it is a good idea to pre-oil the engine before
and the corresponding surface of the bearing cap. Do not allow sealer it is installed and initially started. This will tell you if there are any
to get on the crankshaft or seal (see Section 36).
faults in the oiling system at a time when corrections can be made
7 Install the main bearing caps (with bearings) over the crankshaft easily and without major damage. Pre-oiling the engine will also allow
and onto the cylinder block. The arrows should point toward the front the parts to be lubricated thoroughly in a normal fashion, but without
of the engine.
heavy loads placed upon them.
8 Lubricate the cap bolts and install but do not tighten. Using a
5 The engine should be assembled completely with the exception of
hammer and a block of wood, tap the shaft back and forth to align the the distributor and the valve covers.
center main bearing. Hold the crankshaft to the front while the No. 3
6 A modified distributor will be needed for this job. This pre-oil tool
cap bolts are tightened. Then tighten remaining cap bolts.
is a distributor body with the bottom gear ground off and the
9 To measure crankshaft end play, force the crankshaft as far
counterweight assembly removed from the top of the shaft (photo).
forwards as it will go and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap
7 Place the pre-oiler into the distributor shaft access hole at the rear
between the front of the rear main bearing and the crankshaft thrust
of the intake manifold and make sure the bottom of the shaft mates
surface (photo).
with the oil pump. Clamp the modified distributor into place just as you
10 Install the flywheel as described in Section 33 to ease in engine
would an ordinary distributor. Now attach an electric drill motor to the
rotation during reassembly.
top of the shaft (photo).
8 With the oil filter installed, all oil galley-ways plugged (oil pressure
sending unit at rear of block) and the crankcase full of oil as shown on
46 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - installation the dipstick, rotate the pre-oiler with the drill. Make sure the rotation
is in a clockwise direction. Soon, oil should start to flow from the
1 With the pistons complete with piston rings and connecting rods, rocker arms, signifying that the oil pump and oiling system is
they can be installed in the engine. functioning properly (photo). It may take 2 to 3 minutes for the oil to
2 Make sure the cylinder bores are perfectly clean. Wipe the cylinder flow to each rocker arm. Allow the oil to circulate throughout the
walls several times with a light engine oil and a clean, lint-free cloth. engine for a few minutes.
3 Lubricate the connecting rod bearings and install them into their 9 Check for oil leaks at all locations and correct as necessary.
appropriate rod and rod cap. 10 Remove the pre-oiler and install the normal distributor and valve
4 Lightly coat the pistons, rings and cylinder walls with light engine covers.
oil.
5 Install a length of rubber or plastic tubing over the connecting rod
studs on one rod assembly. This will prevent the threaded bolts from 48 Engine start-up after major repair or overhaul
possibly damaging the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal as the
piston/rod assembly is pushed into place. 1 With the engine in place in the vehicle and all components
6 Check that all the piston ring gaps are positioned properly (see connected, make a final check that all pipes and wiring have been
Section 41). connected and that no rags or tools have been left in the engine
7 Check that the piston/rod assembly is properly positioned. Most compartment.
pistons will be marked with an 'F' or a drilled out area indicating the 2 Connect the negative battery cable. If it sparks or arcs, power is
piston should be installed with these marks toward the front of the being drawn from someplace and all accessories and wiring should be
engine (photo). The rod bearing tang slots should be towards the checked.
outside of the engine block once installed. 3 Fill the cooling system with the proper mixture and amount of
8 Place a piston ring compressor around the piston, with the base of coolant (Chapter 3).
the compressor flush with the cylinder block (photo). Tighten the 4 Fill the crankcase with the correct quantity and grade of oil
compressor until the rings are flush with the piston surface and then (Chapter 1).
push the piston assembly into the bore. A wooden hammer handle can 5 Check the tension of all drive belts (Chapter 1).
be used to tap the top of the piston slightly (photo). Hold the ring 6 Remove the high tension wire from the center tower of the
compressor solidly against the cylinder block until all rings are inside distributor cap (1974) or the BAT' wire connection from the HEI
the bore. Continue pushing until the connecting rod is near its installed distributor (1975 - 1980) to prevent the engine from starting. Now
position. crank the engine over for about 1 5 to 30 seconds. This will allow the
9 Ensure that all bearing surfaces and the crankshaft journal are oil pump to distribute oil and the fuel pump to start pumping fuel to the
coated with engine oil and remove the tubing protector pieces. Install carburetor.
the connecting rod bearing cap (with bearing) to the connecting rod. 7 Now connect the high tension lead at the distributor and start the
10 Torque the nuts to specification (photo). engine. Immediately check all gauges and warning lights for proper
1 1 Repeat this procedure for all cylinders, using the rubber or plastic readings and check for leaks of coolant or oil.
tubing on each assembly to prevent damage as the pistons are pushed 8 If the engine does not start immediately, check to make sure fuel
into place. Rotate the crankshaft as necessary to make the connecting is reaching the carburetor. This may take a while.
rod nuts accessible for tightening. 9 After allowing the engine to run for a few minutes at low speed,
turn it off and check the oil and coolant levels.
10 Start the engine again and check the ignition timing, emission
control settings and carburetor idle speeds (Chapter 1).
47 Engine - final assembling and pre-oiling after overhaul
1 1 Run the vehicle easily during the first 500 to 1000 miles (break-
in period) then check the torque settings on all major engine
1 After the crankshaft, piston/rod assemblies and the various as¬
components, particularly the cylinder heads. Tighten any bolts which
sociated bearings have been installed in the engine block, the may have loosened.
Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine
Refer to Chapter 13 for specifications and information applicable to later models

Contents

Automatic transmission flex plate - balancing procedures. 95 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation. 60
Automatic transmission flex plate - removal, inspection and General information. 49
installation. 78 Harmonic balancer - balancing procedure. 94
Camshaft - removal and installation. 75 Intake manifold - removal and installation. 59
Connecting rod side clearance - checking. 87 Main bearings and rod bearings - checking clearances. 86
Crankshaft and bearings - inspection and servicing. 82 Manual transmission flywheel - removal and installation. 77
Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement. 74 Oil pan - removal and installation. 67
Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals - installation. 88 Oil pump - installation. 69
Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals - removal. 79 Oil pump - removal, dismantling and inspection. 68
Cylinder block - inspection. 80 Oil pump pipe and screen assembly - removal and installation ... 70
Cylinder heads - installation. 64 Piston and connecting rod assemblies - cleaning and
Cylinder heads - removal. 61 inspection. 83
Engine assembly - general information. 85 Piston and piston rings - assembly. 84
Engine - dismantling (general). 57 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - installation. 89
Engine - final assembling and pre-oiling.. 90 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - removal. 76
Engine identification. 50 Rear main bearing oil seal - replacement. 93
Engine installation - without transmission (automatic). 55 Rear main bearing upper oil seal - repair. 92
Engine installation - with transmission (manual). 54 Rocker arm assemblies - removal and installation. 62
Engine mounts - inspection and replacement. 56 Timing chain and sprockets - removal and installation. 73
Engine - major overhaul dismantling sequence. 58 Timing chain cover - removal and installation. 72
Engine - rebuilding alternatives. 81 Torsional damper - removal and installation. 71
Engine — removal. 53 Valves and guides - removal, service and installation. 63
Engine - removal and installation methods and precautions. 52 Valve lash - adjustment. 66
Engine - repair operations (general notes). 51 Valve lifters - removal, inspection and installation. 65
Engine start-up after major repair or overhaul. 91

Specifications

Engine - general
Type. V6 water cooled, overhead valve
Firing order. 1-6-5-4-3-2

Engine availability
1975 and 1976 models
Displacement (cu in) VIN code
231 . C
1977
Displacement (cu in)
231 . C
231 . A
1978
Displacement (cu in)
196. C
231 . A
*231 . G
*231 . 3
1979
Displacement (cu in)
196. C
231 . A
*231 . 3
1980
Displacement (cu in)
231 . A
*231 . 3
•Turbocharged - see Chapter 2C
 92
Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

General engine dimensions

Engine displacement.
1 96 and 231 cu in
Stroke (in).
3,400
Cylinder bore (diameter) (in).
3.800 (196, 3.500)
Out-of-round (in) (max). 0.0005 max
Taper (max) (in).
0.0005

Engine specifications
AH dimensions given in inches
Pistons and piston rings
Piston clearance in bore (measured at skirt top) 0.0008 to 0.0020
Piston ring clearance in groove
Top.
0.003 to 0.005
2nd.
0.010 to 0.020
Oil... ZZZZZZZZ. 0.0035 max
Piston ring end gap
Top.
0.010 to 0.020
2nd.
0.010 to 0.020
Oil control.
0.015 to 0.035
Piston pin diameter.
0.9391 to 0.9394
Clearance in piston.
0.0004 to 0.0007
Interference fit in rod.
0.0007 to 0.0017
Crankshaft
Main journal diameters
All (except 1975).
2.4995 (1975, 1.785)
Main bearing running clearance
1975 thru 1978 .
0.0004 to 0.0015
1979 and 1980."
0.0003 to 0.0018
Crankshaft endplay.
0.004 to 0.008
Crankpin diameter
1977 and 1978.
2.0000
1979 and 1980.
2.2495 to 2.2487
Crankpin out-of-round.
0.001 5 max
Rod bearing running clearance.
0.0005 to 0.0026
Rod side clearance.
0.006 to 0.027
Camshaft
Journal diameter.
1.785 to 1.786
Journal clearance
No 1 .
0.0005 to 0.0025
Nos, 2, 3, 4. ZZZZZ. 0.0005 to 0.0035
Valve system
Rocker arm ratio.
1.55:1
Valve lash.
One turn down from zero
Valve face angle.
45°
Valve seat angle.
45°
Valve seat width
(Intake).
1/32 to 1/16
(Exhaust).
1/16 to 3/32
Valve stem clearance
(Intake).
0.0015 to 0.0032
(Exhaust).
0.001 5 to 0.0032
Valve lifter diameter.
0.8420 to 0.8427
Valve lifter clearance in bore.
0.0008 to 0.0025
Engine lubrication
Oil pump type.
Gear type driven from distributor shaft meshed to camshaft helical
gear
Oil filter element.
Disposable cartridge type AC PF40
Crankcase oil capacity
Without oil filter change.
4 US qts
With oil filter change.
5 US qts
Crankcase vent filter - all."
AC FB59
Crankcase (PCV) valve.
AC CV770C

Torque specifications (all engines) 1975 and 1976 1977 thru 1980
ft-lb ft-lb
Cylinder head bolts.
30 80
Rod bearing bolts.
40 40
Main bearing bolts.
115 100
Crankshaft bolts.
175 175
Flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts.
60 60
Intake manifold.
45 45
Exhaust manifold.
25 25
Spark plugs.
20 20
Camshaft sprocket.
22 22
Water pump.
7 7
Rocker arm shaft-to-cylinder head. 30 30
 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 93

Rocker arm cover-to-cylinder head. 4 4

Oil drain plug. 30 30
Oil pump-to-block or timing cover. 10 10
Torsional damper-to-crankshaft. 175 175
Oil pan-to-cylinder block. 15 14
Special movable timing chain dampener bolt 12 12
Oil filter. 20 20
Bellhousing. 35 25
Flywheel housing cover. 10 10
Oil pump regulator retainer. 35 35
Oil pressure switch-to-cylinder block. 23 23
Thermostat housing-to-intake manifold. 20 13
Automatic transmission-to-cylinder block. 35 35
Distributor hold-down clamp. 12 13
Fuel pump. 20 20
Oil galley plugs. 25 25

49 General information 53 Engine - removal

Beginning in 1975, Buick began using the 231 CID V6 engine as Note: If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, the
the workhorse motor in the Century/Regal line. Made of cast iron, the engine should be removed by itself. Make sure the transmission is fully
231 V6 is a 90° vee with rocker-operated overhead valves. Lubri¬ supported while the engine is out of the vehicle. If the car is equipped
cation is by standard pump system similar to that in the V8 engines. with a manual transmission, General Motors recommends that the
In 1978 and 1979, Buick also added the 1 96 CID V6 engine to its engine and transmission be removed together as a single unit.
lineup. With the exception of the cylinder bore size, the 196 V6 is 1 If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the car should be
almost identical to the 231 motor. driven to a dealer or air conditioning shop to have the system
As many of the service operations of the V6 engines are very depressurized. The air conditioning system cannot simply be unbolted
similar to those of the V8 engines, this Chapter will deal with service and laid aside for engine removal. Do not attempt to disconnect any of
specifications and procedures that are different from the V8 line. the air conditioning system while it is under pressure. Ths could result
Proper notations will refer the reader back to the Chapter 2A whenever in serious physical injury as well as damage to the system.
servicing requirements are similar to those outlined in Chapter 2A. 2 Remove the hood. Scribe marks around the hood hinge and hinge
Information specific to the turbocharged V6 engines can be found bracket for ease of re-installation.
in Chapter 2C. 3 Disconnect the battery ground cable at the engine.
4 Drain the coolant from the engine and radiator and remove the
upper radiator shroud assembly.
5 Remove the air cleaner and mark all hoses to it with tape for easier
50 Engine identification
reassembly.
6 Remove the fan, fan pulleys and drivebelts.
1 The type of engine in your vehicle can be determined by consulting
7 Disconnect the radiator, heater and transmission cooler (if ap¬
the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The fifth figure in the number
plicable) from the engine and fasten them out of the way.
code identifies the engine type. The VIN is located on the top of the
8 Disconnect the fuel pump hoses and plug them to keep out dirt
dashboard and can be read through the windshield.
and prevent later fuel drainage.
9 Disconnect the vacuum supply hose from the carburetor to the
vacuum manifold. If the vehicle is equipped with power brakes,
51 Engine - repair operations (general notes) disconnect the vacuum modulator and power brake vacuum hoses at
the engine.
1 Refer to Section 2 of Part A for a listing of the operations which 10 Disconnect the fuel vapor hoses which run to the emissions
can be performed with the engine bolted in place, slightly raised off its system charcoal canister. Label with tape for easy re-installation.
mounts and completely removed. 1 1 Disconnect the throttle control cable at the carburetor.
2 This Section also contains information and guidelines to follow 12 Disconnect the generator, oil and coolant sending unit switch
during engine servicing. connections at the engine, marking the wires with tape for ease of re-
installation. Remove the generator (Chapter 5).
13 Disconnect the engine-to-body ground straps at the engine.
52 Engine - removal and installation methods and precautions 14 Raise the vehicle and support it firmly on jack stands.
1 5 Remove the starter solenoid wires and mark with tape. Disconnect
1 The method of V6 engine removal depends on the type of the solenoid wires and cable shield (if so equipped) from the starter.
transmission installed. If the car is equipped with an automatic Remove the starter motor/solenoid assembly (Chapter 5).
transmission, the engine should be removed by itself, leaving the 16 Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds.
17 Remove the lower flywheel (manual transmission) or converter
transmission in place. If the car is equipped with a manual trans¬
mission, it is recommended that the transmission be removed with the (automatic transmission) cover.
1 8 On automatic transmission cars, remove the bolts attaching the
engine.
2 During the removal operations, make sure that any jacks used are flywheel to the converter. Scribe a chalk mark on the flywheel and the
supplemented with axle-stands before attempting to work under the converter for ease in reassembly alignment.
19 Loosen the transmission-to-engine attaching bolts on automatic
vehicle.
3 Do not smoke if fuel has been spilled and mop up fuel and oil transmission vehicles. On manual transmission cars, disconnect the
driveshaft. shaft linkage, clutch equalizer shaft, speedometer cable and
spillages as quickly as possible.
4 If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, never disconnect transmission mount bolts. Wrap a plastic bag around the rear of the
any of the system lines. If the belt-driven compressor can be unbolted transmission to prevent fluid loss.
and moved to one side of the engine compartment to provide room to 21 Drain the oil from the engine oil pan.
22 On cars with automatic transmission,lower the vehicle and sup¬
service components, this is permissible. If sufficient clearance is not
obtainable then the system must be discharged by your dealer or a port the transmission.
23 Check to make certain that wiring harnesses, vacuum hoses, etc.,
competent refrigeration engineer and subsequently recharged once
are disconnected from the engine and that there is enough clearance
the engine work is complete.
5 If air conditioning is fitted, avoid damage to the condenser which around the engine.
24 Attach a lifting device to the engine and raise the engine just
is mounted just ahead of the radiator.
 94 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

enough to take the slack out of the lifting chain. Remove the engine
mount through-bolts. 55 Engine installation - without transmission (automatic)
25 Remove the bolts which attach the rear of the engine to the
transmission bellhousing on automatic transmission cars. On vehicles 1 Position the lifting device so that the engine is sitting level.
with manual transmission, remove the transmission-to-crossmember 2 Slowly lower the engine into the engine compartment until the
bolts and the crossmember-to-frame bolts. Raise the transmission engine and transmission are engaged and the scribe marks on the
slightly and slide the crossmember to the rear until it can be removed. flywheel and converter are aligned. It may be necessary to raise and
26 On automatic transmission vehicles, raise the engine slightly and lower the jack supporting the transmission to fit the engine mount
keep the torque converter pushed well to the rear to ensure the through-bolts into position.
engagement of the converter tangs with the oil pump in the trans¬ 3 Install the engine mount through-bolts and torque-tighten to
mission. Carefully lift the engine straight up and out of the engine specifications.
compartment, making sure that it does not hit the brake master 4 Raise the car and install the bolts attaching the transmission to the
cylinder, firewall, power steering pump or body nosepiece as it is engine and tighten to torque specifications. Install the flywheel cover
removed. and torque-tighten.
27 On manual transmission cars, raise the engine as you lower the 5 Connect the cross-over pipe to the exhaust manifold and torque-
transmission. Do this slowly and carefully, checking clearances as you tighten to specifications.
go. The engine/transmission unit will be at a steep angle to clear the 6 Connect the starter cables to the starter and the cable shield to the
engine compartment and the transmission may have to be lifted engine block.
slightly so that it doesn't hit the front body nosepiece. 7 Connect the fuel lines to the fuel pump.
8 Reposition the power steering pump into the pump brackets and
tighten the bolts.
54 Engine installation - with transmission (manual) 9 Install the fan, fan pulleys, belts and shroud assembly. Adjust the
fan belt tension (Chapter 1).
1 With the transmission attached to the engine, attach the lifting 10 Re-install the air cleaner and -hoses using the coded tapes as a
device to the engine. guide.
2 Tilt the engine/transmission unit at an angle and lower it into the 1 1 Fill the cooling system to the proper level (Chapter 1).
engine compartment and guide the engine mounts onto the frame 12 Fill the engine with the proper grade of oil and check the
while raising the transmission into the proper position. transmission fluid level, adding fluid as necessary.
3 Install the engine mount front and rear through-bolts. 13 Re-install the hood, using the scribed marks on the hinges for
4 Install the remaining components in reverse order of removal (see alignment (Chapter 12).
previous Section). 14 Connect the battery positive cable, followed by the negative cable.
5 Adjust the clutch as described in Chapter 8. If sparks or arcing occur as the negative cable is connected to the
6 Fill the engine cooling system with proper coolant. battery, check that all electrical accessories are turned off and that
7 Fill the engine with the proper grade of oil. wiring is connected properly to the engine and transmission.
8 Check the fluid level in the transmission and add fluid as 15 See Chapter 2A for the starting-up sequence.
necessary.
9 Connect the battery positive cable, followed by the negative cable.
If sparks or arcing occur as the negative cable is connected to the 56 Engine mounts - inspection and replacement
battery, check that all electrical accessories are turned off and that
wiring is properly connected to the engine and transmission. Front mount - inspection
10 See Chapter 2A for the starting-up sequence. 1 Raise the engine slightly to place a slight tension on the rubber
 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 95

mount. This can be done by using a hoist (cherry picker) or with a jack
and bracket placed under the forward edge of the oil pan. Inspect the
mount for:
a) Heat cracks on the hard rubber surface.
b) Rubber separating from the metal plate at the mount.
c) Rubber split through the center.

Rear mount - inspection

2 Raise the vehicle on a hoist and push up and down on the
transmission tailshaft while observing the transmission mount. If the
rubber separates from the metal plate of the mount or the tailshaft
moves up and down (meaning that the mount is bottomed out),
replace the mount. If there is movement between the mount's metal
plate and attaching point, tighten the bolts or screws which attach the
mount to the transmission or crossmember.

Front mount - replacement

3 Remove the tension on the mount by raising the engine slightly
and then remove the engine mount-to-engine block bolts. Remove the
engine mount through-bolt.
4 Remove the mount.
5 Install the new mount, through-bolts and nuts.
6 Install the engine mount-to-engine block bolts. Torque-tighten to
specifications.

Fig. 2.28 Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence (Sec 59)

Rear mount - replacement
7 Raise the engine to relieve weight from the engine mounts.
8 Remove the bolts attaching the crossmember to the mount.
9 Remove the mount-to-transmission bolts. or equivalent.
10 Remove the engine mount. 8 Remove the accelerator linkage springs and compressor top
11 Install the new mount on the transmission. While lowering the bracket (if applicable).
transmission onto the mount, align and start the crossmember-to- 9 Remove the remaining intake manifold bolts (there are 10).
mount bolts. Torque-tighten bolts. 10 Lift the intake manifold, complete with carburetor, from the
engine. Do not pry on the mating edges to break the seals as this may
cause damage.
11 If the intake manifold is to be replaced with a new one, transfer
the following accessories:
57 Engine - dismantling (general) a) Carburetor and carburetor attaching bolts.
b) Temperature and/or oil sending unit.
1 Refer to Section 10 of Chapter 2 Part A for valuable information c) Water outlet and thermostat (use a new gasket).
concerning major engine servicing or overhaul. d) EGR valve (use a new gasket).
e) Heater hose and water pump hose adapter fittings.
f) Carburetor choke assembly.
58 Engine — major overhaul dismantling sequence 12 Before installing the manifold, cover the engine cavity with lint-
free rags and clean the engine block, cylinder heads and manifold
1 Refer to Section 1 1 of Chapter 2 Part A which gives a basic gasket surfaces. All old gasket material and sealing compound must be
guideline to follow when dismantling an engine for overhaul. removed before installation. Be sure that all dirt, gasket remains, etc.
are removed from the engine cavity.
13 Place the new intake manifold gasket and rubber manifold seal in
position at the front and rear rails of the cylinder block. Make sure that
the pointed end of the seal fits snugly against the block and head.
59 Intake manifold - removal and installation
Before installing the manifold seals, apply RTV or equivalent sealant to
1 Disconnect the battery ground cable. the ends of the seals.
14 Install the one-piece manifold gasket and carefully set the
2 Drain the radiator and remove the air cleaner.
3 Disconnect the upper radiator hose and heater hose at the manifold in place, locating it on the engine block dowel pins.
15 Install the manifold-to-cylinder head attaching bolts. Referring to
manifold.
4 Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the carburetor, the linkage the accompanying Figure, gradually tighten the No. 1 and No. 2 bolts
bracket at the manifold and cruise control chain (if applicable). until snug. Install the rest of the bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten
the bolts to the torque specifications.
5 Disconnect:
16 Connect and/or re-install the components in the reverse order of
a) The booster vacuum pipe at the manifold.
b) Fuel line at the carburetor. Plug the line and catch any removal.
17 Connect the battery cable.
spillage.
c) The transmission vacuum modulator line (if applicable). 18 Close the drain plug and refill the cooling system (Chapter 1).
1 9 Start the engine and check for leaks. Adjust the ignition timing and
d) Idle stop solenoid (if applicable).
e) Distributor wires. Mark each wire with pieces of tape for ease carburetor idle as necessary.
of reassembly.
f) The temperature sending unit wire.
g) Vacuum hoses from the distributor, TVS and EFE valvepipe at 60 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation
the carburetor. Mark hoses with pieces of tape for ease of
reassembly. 1 Raise the vehicle and support it on stands.
h) Coolant by-pass hose at the manifold. 2 Disconnect the battery ground cable.
6 Remove the distributor cap, mark the rotor position and remove 3 Remove the crossover pipe and hang it from the frame with wire.
the rotor to gain access to the left intake manifold six-lobed socket 4 Remove the spark plug wires from spark plugs (mark with tape).
head bolt. 5 Disconnect the EFE pipe.
7 Remove the "six-lobed socket" head bolt with GM tool J-24394 6 Remove the exhaust manifold bolts and the manifold.
96 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

6 Marking their position with pieces of tape, disconnect the wires

from the spark plugs. Remove the spark plug wire clips from the rocker
arm cover studs.
7 Remove exhaust manifold and bolts, referring to Section 60.
8 Carefully clean the dirt and grease from the cylinder head, valve
cover and surrounding area to avoid getting grit and foreign matter
into the engine. This is extremely important as dirt can damage the
hydraulic valve lifters.
9 Remove the rocker arm cover attaching bolts (photo). Lift the
rocker arm cover off the cylinder head. It may be necessary to break
the gasket seal by striking the front of the cover with the heel of your
hand or a rubber mallet. Do not pry on the sealing surfaces.
10 Whenever the pushrods, lifters or other valve mechanism compo¬
nents are removed, they should be kept separate and in order so that
they can be re-installed in their original position. A numbered rack or
piece of cardboard with holes punched in it can be used for this.
1 1 Remove the bolts holding the rocker arm shaft assembly to the
cylinder head and lift off the assembly. Remove the pushrods and
place them in the numbered rack or cardboard.
12 Loosen the cylinder head bolts a little at a time and remove. Keep
track of bolt length and location.
1 3 Lift the cylinder head off the engine. If the head is stuck to the
engine, don't try to pry it free, as this may damage the sealing
Fig. 2.29 Positioning of service rocker arms on shaft (Sec 62) surfaces. Instead, use a hammer and block of wood, tapping upwards
at each end.
14 Set the cylinder head on wood blocks to prevent damage.
RIGHT AND LEFT MARKING 15 At this point, you are faced with the decision to overhaul the
cylinder heads yourself or to exchange the heads for new or rebuilt
units which are commonly available at GM dealers or auto parts
stores. Another alternative is to take the cylinder heads complete to a
competent machine shop or GM dealer for the overhaul process.
16 If the complete engine is being overhauled at the same time, it
may be wise to refer to Section 38 of Part A which deals with
rebuilding alternatives.
17 If it is decided to overhaul the cylinder heads, read through the
following Sections to gain an undrstanding of the steps involved and
the tools and replacement parts which will be necessary.

62 Rocker arm assemblies - removal and installation

1 Remove the rocker arm and shaft assembly from the cylinder head
as described in Section 61.
Fig. 2.30 Service rocker arm identification (Sec 62) 2 Place the assembly on wood blocks on a clean surface.
3 Remove the nylon rocker arm retainers by prying them out using
pliers.
7 Before installing the manifold, clean all old gasket material from
4 Remove the rocker arms, clean them in a suitable solution and
the mating surfaces on the cylinder head and manifold.
inspect for wear. Remove the retainer pieces from inside the rocker
8 Place the new gasket into position on the cylinder head using a arm shaft.
thin film of sealer to secure it in place.
5 Lubricating all parts with engine oil, assemble them on the rocker
9 Install the manifold and torque-tighten the center bolts first, then arm shaft. It isn't necessary to re-install the rocker arms in their
the end bolts.
original location, but they do have to go on in the proper sequence.
10 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. They are stamped right (R) or left (L) to aid in their correct positioning
Use a new gasket or packing at the crossover pipe flange. on the rocker shaft.
1 1 Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks. 6 Center each rocker on the -j- in hole in the shaft. Install new nylon
rocker arm retainers in the -j in holes, using a y in drift.
7 Place the rocker arm assembly on the cylinder head. Re-install the
61 Cylinder heads - removal bolts attaching the rocker arm assembly. Tighten all bolts to torque
specifications.
1 On vehicles equipped with AIR, disconnect the rubber hose at the
injection tubing check valve. If this is done, the tubing will not have to
be removed from the exhaust manifold. 63 Valves and guides- removal, service and installation
2 Remove the intake manifold, referring to Section 59.
3 Drain the coolant from the engine. Note: The valve mechanism for the 231 cu in V6 engine varies from
4 When removing the right cylinder head: most GM engines in that there is no valve lash adjustment provision,
a) Loosen and remove all drivebelts. if the valve seat on the cylinder head and/or the valve face are ground,
b) Tag with tape, then remove generator wires. this will probably alter the height of the valve stem above the head
c) On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, remove the surface. GM recommends that if the valve and seat have been
compressor from the mounting bracket and position it out of refinished enough to allow the end of the valve stem to rise
the way with the hoses connected. Then remove the gener¬ approximately 0.050 in above the normal position, the end of the valve
ator, complete with bracket. stem should be ground down to bring it to its natural height.
5 When removing the left cylinder head: 1 Remove the cylinder head and place on a clean surface.
a) Remove the oil dipstick rod and tube. 2 Using a suitable spring compressor, such as GM tool J-8062,
b) Remove the power steering gear pump complete with mount¬ compress the valve spring and remove the valve spring cap key.
ing bracket and move it out of the way with the hoses Release the tool and remove the spring and cap.
attached, if applicable. 3 Remove the valve seals from the valves and discard the seals.
 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 97

Remove the valves and place them in numerical order in a block of

wood or piece of cardboard for installation in their original location.
4 At this point in the overhaul process the cylinder head should be
thoroughly cleaned and inspected for damage. Sections 16 and 17 of
Part A outline these operations and should be followed for all V6
engines.
5 The valves should be inspected for signs of pitting, burned spots
or poor seating. Depending on condition, they should either be
reground or replaced. A valve should be discarded if re-grinding to
true-up the face results in a sharp edge, as this will cause it to run hot.
Correct valve face angle is 45°.
6 If the valve stem has too much clearance in its guide, it should be
replaced with an oversized valve. This operation is best left to your
dealer or a machine shop.
7 The valve seats should be trued-up to 45°, another job for your
dealer or a machine shop.
8 After trueing, the valves can be lightly lap-ground to the seats.
This is done by applying a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the
seat face and using a suction cup grinding tool to lightly rotate the
valve in a semi-circular motion. Lift the valve occasionally to re¬
distribute the paste. When a dull matte, even finish is produced, wipe
off the paste and repeat the process with a fine carborundum paste.
When a smooth, even ring of grey matte finish results, the process is
finished. Carefully clean away any trace of grinding compound. New
valves should never be lap-ground as this will destroy the plating on
their surfaces.
9 Lubricate the valve stems and guides with engine oil and re-install
the valves.
10 Install new intake valve seals. Do not install exhaust valve guide
seals.
11 Start the valve seal carefully over the valve stem, pushing the seal
down until it touches the top of the guide. Using an installation tool
such as GM tool J-22509, push the seal over the valve guide until the
upper inside surface of the seal touches the top of the guide. Compress
the springs only enough to install the keepers, as excess compression
can cause the spring retainer to damage the valve seal.
12 Install the intake and exhaust valve springs.
13 Re-install the valve spring, cap and cap retainer.
14 Instate the cylinder head.

64 Cylinder heads - installation

1 Thoroughly clean off the engine block surface, making certain that
no foreign material, dirt or gasket pieces have fallen into the engine
cylinder bores, bolt holes or valve lifter area. Clean out the bolt holes
with an air hose if available.
2 Install the new head gasket, bead side down toward the cylinder
block, using the dowel pins in the block to locate and hold it in place.
Be careful not to kink or damage the surface of the gasket.
3 Clean the gasket surface of the cylinder head and carefully set it Fig. 2.32 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (Sec 64)
in place on the engine block dowel pins.
4 Use a heavy-body thread sealer on the head bolts because they
pass through the engine coolant. Make sure the torque wrench is
accurate because uneven tightening can distort the cylinder bores,
causing compression loss and excessive oil consumption.
5 Install the head bolts and tighten them a little at a time about
three times around in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure. After the engine has been warmed up, recheck the cylinder head bolt
Give the bolts a final torque in the same sequence. Tighten to torque torque.
specifications. 15 Install the rocker arm cover and new gasket. Torque-tighten the
6 Install the exhaust manifolds on the heads. Tighten to torque rocker arm cover bolts to specifications.
specifications.
7 Wipe the rocker arm shaft and the bosses of the cylinder head
with a clean, lint-free cloth and make sure that everything is clean. 65 Valve lifters - removal, inspection and installation
8 Remove the pushrods from their numbered rack or cardboard and
install them in their proper position. 1 The valve lifters used on all V6 engines are of the hydraulic type.
9 Locate each pushrod in its rocker arm seat by tilting the rocker arm Information concerning the removal, inspection and installation of the
toward the pushrod. valve lifters can be found in Section 20 of Part A.
10 Tighten the rocker arm shaft assembly bolts a little at a time.
Torque-tighten to specifications.
11 Install the spark plug wires on the rocker arm cover studs and
connect the wires using the pieces of tape as a guide. 66 Valve lash - adjustment
12 Install the intake manifold as described in Section 59.
13 Install all components removed during cylinder head removal and 1 The valve lash on 231 cu in V6 engines cannot be adjusted due to
tighten all drivebelts. the design of the valve mechanism. See Section 63 for more
14 Refill the engine with coolant, start the engine and check for leaks. information.
 98 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

67 Oil pan - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2 Raise the car and support it firmly on jack stands.
3 Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
4 Remove the automatic transmission flex plate lower cover.
5 Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe at the manifolds.
6 Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and remove the oil pan.
7 Clean the pan thoroughly wth the proper solvent. Check the gasket
surfaces on the block and pan to make sure that they are clean,
smooth and free of old gasket material.
8 Apply sealer to the new oil pan gasket in several places and install
it on the pan, making certain that the bolt holes line up.
9 Install the oil pan and pan bolts. Torque-tighten the bolts to
specifications.

68 Oil pump - removal, dismantling and inspection

1 Unscrew and remove the oil filter.

2 Remove the screws attaching the oil pump cover assembly to the
timing chain cover. Remove the cover assembly and slide out the oil Fig. 2.33 Checking oil pump end clearance (Sec 68)
pump gear.
3 Wash off the gears with a proper solution and inspect for wear,
scoring etc. Replace any unserviceable gears with new ones.
4 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve cap, spring and valve. Do not
remove the oil filter by-pass valve and spring as they are staked in
place.
5 Wash the parts thoroughly in the proper solvent and inspect the
relief valve for wear and scoring. Check to make sure that the relief
valve spring is not collapsed or worn on its side. Any relief valve spring
which is questionable should be replaced with a new one.
6 Check the relief valve in its bore in the cover. It should be an easy
slip-fit only, and any side shake which can be felt is too much. The
valve and/or cover should be replaced with a new one in this case.
7 The filter by-pass valve should be flat and free of nicks, cracks or
warping and scratches.

69 Oil pump - installation

1 Lubricate the pressure relief valve and spring and install it in the
bore of the oil pump case. Install the cap and gasket and torque-
tighten to specifications.
2 Insert the oil pump gear and shaft into the oil pump body section
of the timing chain cover to check the gear end clearance and side Fig. 2.34 Measuring oil pump side clearance (Sec 68)
clearance as follows:
a) Place a straightedge over the gears and measure the
clearance between the straightedge and gasket surface. This
will be the end clearance and should be between 0.002 and
0.006 in. If less than 0.002, measure the gears and pocket to
determine which is out of specification.
b) Check the oil pump side clearance. Clearance should be
between 0.0025 and 0.0050 in. If clearance is greater than
0.0050, measure the gears and pocket to determine which is
out of specifications.
c) Place a straightedge across the oil pump cover face to check
for flatness. Insert a feeler gauge between the straightedge
and the pump cover. Replace the cover with a new one if the
clearance is 0.001 in or more.
3 If all clearances are satisfactory, remove the gears and pack the
pocket full of petroleum jelly. Do not use chassis lube.
4 Re-install the gears, making sure that petroleum jelly is forced into
every cavity of the gear pocket and between the teeth of the gears. The
pump may not prime itself when the engine is started if the pump is
not packed with the petroleum jelly.
5 Install the pump cover assembly screws and tighten them alter¬
nately and evenly. Torque-tighten to specifications.
6 Install oil filter and check oil level with the dipstick. Pay close
attention to the oil pressure gauge or warning light during the initial
start-up and driving period. Shut off the engine and inspect all work if Fig. 2.35 Measuring the gear pocket for wear (A = 0.8697
a lack of oil pressure is indicated.
0.8677 in; B = 1.674 to 1.671 in) (Sec 68)
 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 99

70 Oil pump pipe and screen assembly — removal and installation

1 Remove the oil pan (Section 67).

2 Remove the bolts attaching the oil pump pipe and screen
assembly to the cylinder block.
3 Clean the screen and housing thoroughly in the proper solvent
solution. Blow dry with compressed air if possible.
4 Check to make sure that the oil pump flange gasket surface is
smooth and free of dirt and old gasket material.
5 Install the old pipe pickup assembly using a new gasket and
tighten the bolts to specifications.
6 Install the oil pan and tighten the bolts to specifications.

71 Torsional damper - removal and installation

1 The torsional damper on V6 engines is basically the same as on V8

engines. Refer to Section 26 of Chapter 2 Part 2A for the removal and
installation procedures; however be sure to use the torque specifi¬
cations given for V6.

72 Timing chain cover - removal and installation

1 Drain the radiator.

2 Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater return
Fig. 2.36 Measuring gears for wear (A = 0.8735 to 0.8720 in;
hose at the water pump.
B = 1.666 to 1.664 in) (Sec 68)
3 Remove the fan, fan pulleys and belts.
4 Disconnect the fuel lines, plug them and remove the fuel pump.
5 Remove the generator and brackets.
6 Remove the distributor. If the timing chain and sprockets are not
going to be disturbed, mark the position of the distributor rotor so that
it can be re-installed in the same position.
7 Loosen the front clamp on the thermostat by-pass hose and slide
it rearward.
8 Remove the harmonic balancer (torsional damper) bolt and
washer and remove the harmonic balancer (Section 71).
9 Remove the bolts attaching the timing chain cover to the cylinder
block.
10 Remove the two bolts which attach the oil pan to the timing chain
cover.
1 1 Remove the timing chain cover.
12 Thoroughly clean the timing chain cover, making sure that all old
gasket material is removed and that the surface is not damaged.
13 Before re-installing, remove the oil pump cover and pack pet¬
roleum jelly around the oil pump gears so that there is no air space left
inside the pump. If this is not done, the pump may "lose its prime" and
not begin pumping oil immediately when the engine is started.
Fig. 2.37 Oil pump cover and pressure relief valve components 14 Re-install the pump cover, using a new gasket. Torque bolts to
(Sec 68)
specifications.
1 5 Make sure that the gasket surface of the block and timing chain
cover are smooth and clean and install a new gasket on the cover.
16 Lubricate the harmonic balancer shaft where it will go through the
REMOVE BOLTS
INDICATED BY timing chain cover seal so that the seal will not be damaged when the
ARROWS ( —► ) a engine is first started.
1 7 Using the dowel pins on the block, engage the dowel holes in the
cover and position the cover against the block.
18 Apply sealer to the bolt threads and tighten the bolts to specifi¬
cations.
19 Install the harmonic balancer, bolt and washer. Use a screwdriver
or other such tool to lock the flex plate or flywheel starter teeth and
torque-tighten the harmonic balancer bolt to specifications.

73 Timing chain and sprockets - removal and installation

1 Remove the timing chain cover.

2 Temporarily install the harmonic balancer bolt and washer in the
end of the crankshaft.
3 Turn the crankshaft so that the sprocket timing marks are
positioned toward each other. Remove the harmonic bolt and washer
Fig. 2.38 Timing chain cover removal and installation (Sec 72) without changing the position of the sprockets; a sharp tap on the
wrench handle will accomplish this.
4 Remove the front crankshaft oil slinger.
 100
Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

5 Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts.

6 Remove the oil pan.
77 Manual transmission flywheel - removal and installation
7 Use 2 large screwdrivers to carefully pry first the camshaft
sprocket, then the crankshaft sprocket forward alternately until the 1 Remove the transmission and clutch. Refer to Chapters 7 and 8.
camshaft sprocket is free. Remove the camshaft sprocket and chain Mark the clutch cover and flywheel so that the clutch can be re¬
and complete working the crankshaft sprocket off the crankshaft. installed in the original position.
8 If the chain is not stretched and parts are to be re-used, clean the 2 Remove the bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft flange.
timing chain, sprockets and crankshaft oil slinger thoroughly in the Remove the flywheel. The bolt holes in the flywheel are unevenly
proper solvent.
spaced so that the flywheel will always be installed in the correct
9 If the engine was not rotated while the chain and sprockets were position.
off, install the sprockets and chain with the timing marks perfectly in¬
3 When re-installing the flywheel, make sure that the crankshaft
line; exactly as they were on removal. Then proceed to step 13.
flange is free of burrs which could cause run-out and vibration. Torque
10 If the engine was rotated, temporarily install the sprockets and the bolts to the proper specifications.
turn the crankshaft until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center
and the camshaft 0 mark is straight down and on the centerline of
both shafts.
78 Automatic transmission flex plate — removal, inspection and
11 Remove the sprockets and assemble the timing chain on both installation
sprockets, slide the chain assembly onto the shafts with the 'O' marks
together and in line with the sprocket hubs.
1 Remove the transmission. Refer to Chapter 7.
12 Assemble the oil slinger on the crankshaft with the inside diameter
2 Remove the 6 bolts attaching the flywheel to the crankshaft
against the sprocket (concave side toward the front of the engine).
flange. The bolt holes are spaced unevenly so that the flex plate will
13 Install the camshaft sprocket bolts. Torque-tighten to specifi¬ always be installed in the correct position.
cations.
3 Inspect the flex plate and if it is cracked, replace it with a new one.
14 Install the oil pan using a new gasket.
4 Inspect the crankshaft flange and flex plate for burrs. Any burrs or
15 Install the timing chain cover.
nicks should be removed with a mill file.
5 Install the flex plate and torque tighten the bolts to proper
specifications.
6 By mounting a dial indicator on the engine block, flex plate run-out
74 Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement can be checked at 3 attaching bosses. Crankshaft end play should be
held in one direction during the check and flex plate run-out should not
1 Remove the timing chain cover (see Section 72). exceed .015-in.
2 Using a punch, drive out the old oil seal and shedder. Drive from 7 If run-out is in excess of .01 5-in, tap the high side of the flex plate
the front toward the rear of the timing chain cover. with a mallet or similar tool to correct. If this doesn't correct the
3 Coil the new oil seal packing around the opening so that the ends condition, remove the flex plate and check the flywheel flange for
of the packing are at the top. Drive in the new shedder, using a punch. burrs.
In at least 3 places, stake the shedder in place with the punch.
4 By rotating the handle of a hammer or equivalent tool, size the
packing until the balancer hub can be inserted through the opening. 79 Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals — removal
5 Re-install the timing chain cover.
1 The procedures to follow for all V6 engines are quite similar to
those found in Section 35 of Part A. Refer to Section 35 for
procedures and illustrations.
75 Camshaft - removal and installation

1 Drain the cooling system.

80 Cylinder block — inspection
2 Remove the radiator, fan, pulleys, belts and water pump.
3 If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, unbolt the
1 The cylinder block must be stripped of all parts and thoroughly
condensor and position it out of the way. If it is necessary to
cleaned and inspected to determine if it is within specifications.
disconnect any hoses, have the system discharged by your dealer or
qualified specialist. Rebuilding an engine when the block is out of tolerance is a waste of
time and money.
4 Remove the grille. Refer to Chapter 12.
5 Remove the intake manifold, referring to Section 59. 2 Visually inspect the cylinder block for cracks in the bores, water
jackets, lifter bores and main bearing webs. In most cases, cracks will
6 Remove the rocker arm covers, rocker arm and shaft assemblies,
require replacement of the block.
pushrods and valve lifters referring to the appropriate Sections.
3 Examine the cylinder bores for taper, out of round, scoring and
7 Remove the fuel pump and distributor. Plug the fuel lines to
prevent drainage. scratches. If the bores are in good condition, honing should be all that
8 Remove the harmonic balancer (torsional damper), timing chain is necessary. Deep scratches or scoring will require reboring and the
cover, timing chain and sprockets, referring to the proper Sections. fitting of oversized pistons. Honing and reboring should be left to your
dealer or a machine shop because of the special equipment required.
Align the timing marks on the sprockets before removal to avoid
4 Bore taper can be determined by measuring the bore with an
burring of the camshaft journals by the crankshaft during removal.
internal-type gauge at the top, middle and bottom. The degree of taper
9 Keeping them in the proper order for re-installation, remove the
valve lifters (Section 65). will be revealed by the differences in measurements from the top to
bottom of the bore.
10 Slide the camshaft forward, out of the bearing bores. Be extremely
5 Out-of-round can be found in the same manner, except that the
careful during this operation to avoid damaging the bearings and
bearing surfaces. bore should be measured parallel with the engine centerline and then
at a point 180 degrees from the first measurement.
1 1 Lubricate the camshaft lobes with heavy oil to ease re-installation.
6 If the cylinder bores are worn beyond specifications the block will
1 2 After making sure that the camshaft timing marks are aligned, re¬
install, in reverse order, all of the components which were removed, have to be replaced, honed or bored. Blue smoke from the tailpipe and
excessive ridging of the cylinder bores is an indication of a worn block.
using new gaskets. Refer to the appropriate Sections on the installa¬
tion of the timing chain and sprockets and timing chain cover. 7 A warped block can be determined by using a straight-edge and
dial indicator as described in Section 17 of Part 2A.

81 Engine — rebuilding alternatives

76 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings — removal

1 Refer to Section 38 of Part A for valuable information concerning

efer to Section 32 of Part A for this procedure.
the overhaul possibilities available to the home mechanic.
 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine 101

82 Crankshaft and bearings - inspection and servicing

1 Refer to Section 39 of Part A for these procedures; however make

OIL RING GAP 90° FROM COMPRESSION
RING GAPS AND ON CAMSHAFT SIDE OF sure that all the clearance specifications are taken from the V6
specifications tables.

83 Piston and connecting rod assemblies - cleaning and inspec¬

tion

1 Refer to Section 40 of Part A for these procedures.

84 Piston and piston rings - assembly

1 Refer to Section 41 of Part A for this procedure; however, position

the pistons rings as shown in the accompanying figure.

85 Engine assembly - general information

1 Refer to Section 42 of Part A.

86 Main bearings and rod bearings - checking clearances

1 Refer to Section 43 of Part A; however, use the specifications

listed for V6 engines.

87 Connecting rod side clearance - checking

1 Refer to Section 44 of Part A; however, use the clearance listed in

Specifications for V6 engines.

88 Crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals - installation

1 Refer to Section 45 of Part A; however use the specifications

listed for V6 engines. Follow the steps outlined in Section 93 for
installing the braided fabric oil seal.

89 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings - installation

1 Refer to Section 46 of Part A.

90 Engine - final assembling and pre-oiling

1 Refer to Section 47 of Part A; however, disregard the valve lash

adjustment step as this cannot be accomplished on the 231 engine.

91 Engine start-up after major repair or overhaul

1 Refer to Section 48 of Part A.

92 Rear main bearing upper oil seal - repair

1 Although the crankshaft must be removed to install a new braided

fabric seal, the existing upper seal can be repaired with the crankshaft
in place.
2 Remove the oil pan (Section 67).
3 Using GM tool J21526-2, drive the old seal gently back into its
groove, packing it tight. It will pack in to a depth of £-in to f-in.
4 Repeat the procedure on the other end of the seal.
5 Measure the amount that the seal was driven up in the groove on
one side and add ^-in. Remove the old seal from the main bearing cap.
Fig. 2.39 Piston ring gap positioning (Sec 84)
Use the main bearing cap as a fixture and cut off a piece of the old seal
to the predetermined length. Repeat this process for the other side.
6 Install GM tool J-21 526-1 onto the cylinder block.
 102 Chapter 2 Part B V6 engine

NIFDPRFNF rnAAPOCITinw CCAI 93 Rear main bearing oil seal - replacement

1 Braided fabric seals pressed into grooves formed in the crankcase

and rear bearing cap are used to seal against oil leakage around the
crankshaft. The crankshaft must be removed for this operation.
2 Remove the oil pan (Section 67).
3 Remove the bearing caps and the crankshaft.
4 Remove the old oil seal and place a new seal in the groove with
both ends projecting above the parting surface of the cap.
5 Use a handle of a hammer or similar tool to force the seal into the
groove by rubbing down until the seal projects above the groove not
more than jj-in. Cut the ends of the seal flush with the surface of the
cap with a single-edged razor blade.
6 Soak the neoprene seals which go into the grooves in the sides of
the bearing cap in kerosene for 1 to 2 minutes.
7 Install the neoprene seals in the groove between the bearing cap
and the crankcase. The seals are slightly undersize and swell in the
Fig. 2.40 Installing rear main bearing oil seal (Sec 93)
presence of heat and oil. They are slightly longer than the groove in the
bearing cap and must not be cut to fit.
8 Apply a small amount of RTV sealer at the joint where the bearing
cap meets the crankcase to help eliminate oil leakage. A very thin coat
is all that is necessary.
9 Install the bearing cap in the crankcase. Force the seals up into the
bearing cap with a blunt instrument to be sure of a good seal at the
upper parting line between the cap and case.
10 Install oil pan and torque-tighten bolts to specifications.

94 Harmonic balancer - balancing procedure

1 The harmonic balancer can be checked for vibration and balanced

to eliminate any vibration.
2 Determine the engine speed at which a vibration occurs by using
a tachometer.
3 Place a small amount of body putty or similar material on the
inside surface of the fan driving pulley. Run the engine at the speed
during which the vibration occurred and note if it persists.
Fig. 2.41 Sealer applied to split line (Sec 93) 4 Use varying amounts of putty and repeat the procedure until the
vibration is decreased.
5 When the vibration is considerably decreased or eliminated, mark
the hole drilled in the balancer which is nearest to the putty.
6 Cut a piece of ^-in iron rod to approximately a -J-in length. Using
a chisel, upset a small amount of material on the side of the rod piece
(see accompanying Figure).
7 Install the rod piece in the previously marked hole.
8 If necessary, install additional pieces of rod in the balancer until
the vibration is gone.

95 Automatic transmission flex plate - balacncing procedures

1 Manual transmission flywheels are balanced at the factory and no

attempt should be made to balance them. The automatic transmission
flex plate can be balanced by use of balance clips available from the
dealer parts department.
2 If the flex plate is found to be out of balance:
3 Raise the car and remove the lower flex plate cover. Mark the flex
plate at 4 locations 90° apart.
4 Install one clip at one of the mcarked locations. With the trans¬
mission in Neutral', run the engine and note any vibratcion.
5 If the vibration increases, remove the clip and relocate it 180°
from its original location.
7 Using the packing tool (J-21526-2), work the short pieces of 6 If the vibration decreases, install another clip next to the original
previously cut seal into the guide tool (J-21 526-1) and pack them into one.
the cylinder block groove. The guide and packing tools have been
7 If no change is noted in the vibration, movce the clip 90° and run
machined to provide a built-in stop. Repeat this procedure on both the engine again.
sides. Using oil on the pieces of packing will ease installation.
8 Repeat this procedure until a reduction in the vibration is noted.
8 Remove the guide tool.
By mcoving the clips in small increments, fine adjustments can be made
9 Install a new seal in the main bearing cap and install the cap. until the vibration is gone.
10 Torque tighten to specifications.
9 Make sure that the tangs on the clips are properly set in the flex
11 Install the oil pan.
plate so that they will not shift at high speeds.
Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger
Refer to Chapter 13 for specifications and information applicable to later models

Contents

Detonation sensor - removal and installation. 3 Turbocharger - disassembly and inspection. 14

EGR valve manifold - removal and installation. 12 Turbocharger - general information. 1
Electronic spark control - testing. 4 Turbocharger - removal and installation. 10
Plenum - replacement. 11 Turbocharger elbow assembly - removal and installation. 13
Power enrichment control valve (PECV) (4bbl carburetor Turbocharger vacuum bleed valve (TVBV) (2bbl carburetor
engines) - testing (1978). 8 engines) - testing (1978). 7
Power enrichment vacuum regulator (PEVR) - testing (1979 and Wastegate actuator assembly - removal and installation. 6
1980). 9 Wastegate actuator boost pressure - testing. 5
Turbocharger - cautions. 2

Specifications

ft-lb Nm
Exhaust outlet pipe-to-elbow assembly. 14 19
Elbow assembly-to-compressor housing. 15 19.5
Exhaust inlet pipe-to-turbine housing. 14 19
Exhaust inlet pipe-to-right manifold. 14 19
Oil feed pipe-to-fitting (both ends). 13 17
Oil feed pipe fitting-to-CHRA. 7 10
CHRA-to-turbine housing. 15 19.5
CHRA backplate-to-compressor housing. 13 17.5
Compressor housing-to-plenum. 20 27
Compressor housing-to-intake manifold. 35 47
Oil drain-to-CHRA. 15 20
EGR valve-to-EGR manifold. 15 20
EGR valve manifold-to-intake manifold. 15 20
EGR valve manifold-to-plenum. 15 20
ESC detonation sensor-to-intake manifold .. 14 19
Carburetor-to-plenum. 21 28
Plenum front bracket-to-intake manifold. 20 27
Plenum front bracket-to-plenum. 21 28
TVBV/PECV-to-intake manifold. 25 34
Turbine housing bracket-to-intake manifold 20 27
Turbine housing bracket-to-turbine housing 18 24
Power brake vacuum line-to-plenum. 10 14
Plenum side support bracket-to-plenum. 21 28
Linkage bracket-to-plenum. 20 27
Fuel line-to-carburetor. 20 27

The turbocharger is made up of two turbine wheels mounted to a

1 Turbocharger - general information common shaft. Each wheel is enclosed by a shroud which directs air
flow. One shroud connects to the exhaust manifold. This is the turbine
Turbocharging offers a way of raising the horsepower and torque unit. The other shroud is linked to the carburetor and the intake
output of an engine without the power-robbing belts, drives, and gears manifold. This unit is the compressor. The units work as follows:
of a supercharger. The turbocharger, a snail-shaped device that Compression of fuel and air in the combustion chamber of an
mounts on the 231 V6 engine between the carburetor and the exhaust engine is not just a mechanical action of the piston; when fuel/air
manifold, is capable of increasing horsepower by approximately 35% mixtures are compressed, they gain heat and pressure due to the heat
and torque by about 25%. This increase in power is not constant, gain. When this pressurized gas is routed through a small exhaust port
however. The unit works on an as needed basis. and down a narrow exhaust pipe, it gains velocity. Directing this
An Electronic Spark Control (ESC) computer controls exactly when pressurized exhaust into the turbine unit provides power for the
the turbocharger works and when it doesn't. This unit senses engine turbine. The snail-shaped shroud (housing) keeps the gases tightly
rpms (through a pickup in the HEI distributor) and engine detonation compressed but allows them to expand and cool as they leave the
(via a detonation sensor on the manifold). When the unit determines chamber. The change in heat and velocity is what powers the turbine
that additional power is needed, it sends a signal to the turbo and wheel.
additional boost is gained. When boost is not required, the control The compressor wheel is driven by the turbine. Fuel and air are
center makes sure that the engine remains normally aspirated. compressed as they enter the unit. A charge of compressed gases exits
 104
Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger

the compressor and enters each cylinder where it produces more

power.
Turbine speeds can reach upwards of 50 000 rpm during normal
operation of the engine. Since engine speed determines both the
speed of the turbine and the size of the charge, it is necessary that the
turbocharging system has some built-in safety devices to prevent
damage to the motor and the turbo. A wastegate is installed to control
speed and pressure in the turbine.
The open wastegate allows escaping exhaust gas to by-pass the
turbine. This has the effect of slowing the turbine and compressor
wheels.

2 Turbocharger - IMPORTANT CAUTIONS

Note: Because of the critical nature of the working conditions required

for repairs to be effectively performed on the turbocharger, it is
recommended that such repairs be left to a Buick dealer or other
qualified repair shop.
1 Driven by superheated exhaust gases and routinely operating at
extremely high temperatures, the turbocharger castings retain engine
heat for a very long time. Caution: it is very important to let the car
function of the turbo through these readings.
engine cool for a period of at least three hours after the engine has
been run. Even then, it is prudent to wear heavy gloves when handling
the turbo unit to prevent serious burns. Poor Engine Performance And Detonation
2 The high-speed operation of the turbo dictates that bearing life is 2 If the car suffers from poor engine performance or detonation and
dependent upon a constant flow of clean engine oil. Careful attention you suspect the turbo and its control unit, the following test procedure
should always be paid to the condition of the oil lines and to the will isolate the problem.
tightness of their fittings. Overtightening will cause deformation and 3 First, check the engine coolant for proper level and correct
will lead to leaks. mixture. Inspect all vacuum hoses for leaks, cracks, and proper
3 Always change the engine oil and filter after any time that the connections.
turbo unit is removed. 4 Check the engine's initial timing and compare it with the specifi¬
4 When dismantling the turbo, take care that no bearings, washers, cation sticker under the hood. Make sure that you reconnect the
nuts or screws fall into the turbine. In a unit that operates at speeds vacuum advance hose after completing the timing check.
up to 50 000 rpms, even a small amount of grit entering the turbo can 5 Inspect the detonation sensor wire. Make sure it is properly affixed
cause severe damage to both the turbo and the engine. If an object is to the sensor. Make sure that the wire does not touch or is routed
suspected of falling into the turbine or one of the passageways, flush close to the spark plug wires and the distributor.
the object out. After all servicing is done on the unit, flush all 6 Check detonation sensor for proper installation.
passageways out with clean oil. The best defense against dirt, is to 7 Turn on the ignition switch. Using a voltmeter, check the light blue
work on the turbo only after the engine has been steam cleaned. wire and the black wire across the ESC relay. On 1980 models, take
5 Cover all inlets and pipes while the unit is dismantled. Account for the reading from terminals F and K at the ESC unit for voltage. Look
every nut screw, bolt and washer before and after the unit is at the illustration of the ESC controller to find the exact locations of the
reassembled. Don't try to rush your repair work. This will only lead to wires. The controller is located inside the passenger compartment.
mistakes that could be very costly. 8 On 1978 and 1979 models, the ESC relay must be replaced if
6 Be exceptionally careful when dismantling the turbocharger. Take there is no voltage. On the 1980 model, the open circuit between
special care not to bend, scratch or nick the compressor or turbine terminal F on the 10-pin connector and the ignition switch must be
wheels. Even minor scratches on the blades can result in an imbalance repaired if there is under 7.0 volts.
that will result in failure of the unit. 9 Start the engine and let it run until the radiator top is warm. Make
7 Before disassembly of the turbocharger, scribe the center housing sure that the air conditioner is turned off.
rotating assembly where it bolts up to the compressor and the turbine. 10 Hook up a tachometer and timing light: set the fast idle cam on
The unit should be reassembled in the same basic position that it was "high step ". Engine rpms must be above 1800 rpm to continue with
in before disassembly. the test.
8 If any sealer is found at any point in turbo disassembly (between 1 1 Take a short steel rod (a small wrench or a socket extension will
the center housing rotating assembly backplate and the compressor do) and tap the intake manifold in the area of the detonation sensor
housing, for example), it should be replaced when the unit is put back with medium to heavy taps. Do this fairly rapidly and do NOT tap the
together. sensor unit.
12 Watch the tachometer while tapping. Engine rpms should drop at
least 200 to 500 rpm. Timing should also retard by about 20°. Stop
3 Detonation sensor — removal and installation tapping. Rpms should return to the fast idle setting within about 20
seconds. If they do, proceed to step 1 5.
Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding. 13 If engine revs do not drop off, check the connection from the
1 The detonation sensor is a very sensitive device. Do NOT use an detonation sensor to the turbo control center. Again, check the
impact wrench on it. Do NOT overtorque it. Never apply any side installation of the sensor. It should be firmly bolted into place. If it is
pressure to the sensor. Use a deep socket for removing the sensor. not, tighten it to the specified torque.
2 Squeeze the sides of the connector where it joins the sensor and 14 Disconnect the detonation sensor connector at the firewall and
gently pull straight up on the connector. Don't pull on the wire. Use a connect an ohmmeter to the sensor side of the connector. Connect the
socket and remove the unit. ohmmeter positive lead to the terminal attached to the center
3 When installing the new sensor, take special care not to bang or conductor of the sensor lead. Connect the negative lead to a ground.
drop the unit. Use a deep socket to install the sensor and tighten it to If resistance is not 175 to 375 ohms, replace the detonation sensor
the specified torque. with a new one. If the problem remains after the detonation sensor is
replaced, unplug the 10-pin connector from the ESC controller.
Connect a jumper wire between pins A and B in the harness side of the
4 Electronic spark control - testing
connector. Unplug the detonation sensor wiring harness connector at
the firewall and check for continuity between the terminals of the
Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.
connector (main harness side). If no continuity exists, repair or replace
1 As mentioned in the general description, the Electronic Spark the wires between the firewall connector and the ESC connector. If
Control (ESC) monitors engine rpm and detonation and controls the continuity does exist, repair or replace the wires between the sensor
 Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger 105

and the firewall connector. If the problem still persists, the ESC 24 Check for spark at the spark plug.
controller is defective and must be replaced with a new one. 25 If there is no spark at the plug, take a voltmeter and hook it up
15 If engine rpm dropped back to the fast idle setting in Step 12, between the light blue wire and the black wire (across the ESC relay).
disconnect the 4-wire connector that runs from the ESC unit to the 26 If there is voltage, it means that the ESC relay is faulty and needs
distributor. replacement. If there is no voltage, turn on the ignition and hook a volt
16 Take a jumper wire and connect pin number 4 to socket number meter between the battery terminal on the distributor, and ground.
2 on the connector that is on the distributor side of the harness. (On 27 Note the reading on the meter. If it is under 7.0 volts, the problem
1980 models, jump-wire pin A and pin C on the distributor side of the is not in the ESC unit. You probably have a short circuit between the
harness). battery terminal on the distributor and the ignition switch.
1 7 Unhook the connector from the distributor cap and connect the 3- 28 Install a voltmeter between terminal A on the engine harness side
way connector from GM tool J-24642 ignition tester (or a suitable of the two-wire connector from the ESC box to engine wiring harness.
commercial ignition tester) to the HEI module wiring harness. Connect If the reading is under 7.0 volts, check for a short between terminal A
the tester's ground clip to a suitable ground. and the ignition switch.
18 Connect the battery clip of the tester to the battery negative 29 If the meter reads 7.0 volts or higher, disconnect the 4-pin
terminal and connect the red battery clip to the positive battery connector that hooks up the ESC unit and the distributor. Jump wire
terminal. socket number 2 to pin number 4 on the distributor side of the
19 Next, take a voltmeter and connect it to the two-way connector (it connector. Turn over the engine and check for spark at the spark plug.
is on the outside of the distributor). Hook the voltmeter's negative wire If there is spark at the plug, the ESC controller is defective and should
to the brown lead and its positive wire to the red wire. Set the be replaced.
voltmeter at 10 volts or at the setting closest to 10 volts and turn on 30 If there is no spark, check the distributor as outlined in Steps 16
the ignition. The voltmeter should read zero volts. through 22 in this Section.
20 Press the test button and hold it down. The voltmeter should still
read zero. If you get a voltage reading, the HEI module is malfunction¬ Engine turns over but will not start (1980 models)
ing and should be replaced. 31 Do the service tests outlined in Steps 3 and 4 of this Section.
21 Disconnect the voltmeter and crank the motor. Hold down the test 32 See if the number 2 spark plug is getting spark at the electrode.
button while the engine is cranking. A red light should come on If the spark plug is operating correctly, check under the trouble¬
momentarily and be followed by a constant green light. If the red light shooting section of this manual for other causes of the problem.
stays on and is not followed by a green light, take the distributor to an 33 If there is no spark at the plug, check to see that the 10-pin
authorized GM service center. connector at the ESC box has a good connection. The ESC box is
22 After the distributor has been checked and repaired (if necessary), located under the dashboard.
remove the jumper and tester and reconnect the ESC unit. 34 Attach a voltmeter from the F pin to the K pin on the connector at
the ESC box. If the voltage is under 7.0 volts, there is a short circuit
Engine turns over but will not start (1978 between the F terminal and the ignition. If the problem persists once
and 1979 models) the short has been repaired, go on to the next step.
23 Steps 3 and 4 of this section must be performed before continuing 35 If the voltage is 7.0 volts or over (or if Step 34 didn't solve the
with this sub-section. problem), disconnect the 4-pin connector that runs to the distributor
106
A

ENGINE WIRING HARNESS

SOCKET

PIN 4

°) jur^CONTROL
JS~°ENTER
ESC CONTROLLER

Fig. 2.45 Electronic Spark Control System (1978 and 79)

J
r K GRND BROWN
107

J DELAY BLACK
H LO WHITE
G HI GREEN
ESC F BAT. PINK/BLK
CONTROLLER E
D
C
B SENSOR DK. BLUE
A SHIELD SENSOR SHIELD

FRONT OF DASH

Fig. 2.46 Electronic Spark Control System (1980)

V J
 108 Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger

FULLY DRIVEN, SEATED gauge and apply 8 psi to the actuator. Somewhere between 7.5 and
8.5 psi, the actuator rod should move 0.008 inch and actuate the
wastegate linkage.
3 If it does not work as outlined, replace the actuator and calibrate
the linkage for 8 psi by crimping the threads on the rod once it has
been turned for the correct setting. Reconnect the vacuum hose.

6 Wastegate actuator assembly — removal and installation

Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.

1 Disconnect the 2 hoses from unit and remove retaining clip from
the actuator assembly rod.
2 Remove the 2 bolts that hold the actuator to the compressor.
3 Installation is in the reverse procedure.

7 Turbocharger vacuum bleed valve (TVBV) (2-bbl carburetor

engines) - testing (1978)

Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.

1 The TVBV is located on the intake manifold, in front of and just
between the turbocharger and the carburetor.
2 Inspect the valve and its hoses for cracks, splits and for proper
hook-up. Replace any hoses that are defective.
3 Unhook the vacuum hose that runs to the power enrichment port
on the carburetor and plug the end. Install a manometer into the
distributor vacuum hose between the TVBV and the distributor. Use a
T valve to do this. Start the motor and let it idle. There should not
be more than 14 inch H20 difference on the manometer scale.
4 Now install (via a "T" valve) the manometer into the vacuum hose
that runs from the Thermae sensor (see Chapter 6 Emissions for details
on the Thermae) to the TVBV and the vacuum hose to the TVBV to the
hot air door activator. The engine should be started and the reading
should be the same as in Step 3. If not, there may not be sufficient
vacuum at the hot air door because the engine has not warmed up
enough. Try connecting the manifold vacuum to the input port and
redo the test.
5 Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and plug it. "T" one
hose from the manometer into the vacuum hose that runs from the
EGR signal port to the TVBV. (Again, check Chapter 6, Emissions, for
information on the EGR valve). "T" the other manometer hose into the
vacuum hose that runs from the TVBV to the EGR-EFE switch. Start
the motor and give the car some throttle. The reading should be as in
Step 3: 14 inch H20 difference.
6 Unhook all TVBV hoses at the valve. Make sure the hoses are all
properly connected at their opposite ends. Connect one hose of the
manometer to the TVBV center vent port and the other side of the
manometer to atmosphere.
7 Start the engine and let it idle. There should be no pressure
differential. If there is, or if any of the previous tests did not turn out
properly, replace the TVBV unit and reinstall all hoses.

Fig. 2.48 Boost gauge switches 8 Power enrichment control valve (PECV) (4-bbl carburetor
engines) - testing (1978)
and disconnect the 10-pin connector from the ESC unit. Use a
continuity tester and check the wiring at pins G, H, J, K. Repair any Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.
shorts. Retest. If the trouble remains, proceed to the next step.
1 On 231 CID turbocharged V6 engines with 4-bbl carburetors
36 If the 1 0-pin connector checks out OK, jump wire pin A and pin C
there is a Power Enrichment Control Valve (PECV) instead of a TVBV.
on the distributor side of the harness connector. Try to start the engine.
This unit is in the same location as the TVBV and looks much the
The engine should start and run at idle. DO NOT let the engine race or
same: however testing procedures are a bit different.
give it throttle.
2 Carefully check to make sure that all hoses are properly attached
37 If the engine will run, the ESC box is defective. If the engine will
and that there are no cracks in the valve or the hoses.
not run, check the distributor as outlined in Steps 17 through 22.
3 Connect one hose of the manometer (via a "T") into the input
Leave the A pin and C pin jumped. Repair the distributor as necessary.
(center) port vacuum hose between the "T" and the PECV. Connect
Replace the ESC box if the problem persists.
the other manometer hose directly to the output port vacuum hose.
Start the motor and let it run at idle. There should be no more than 12
inch H20 difference.
5 Wastegate actuator boost pressure - testing 4 Disconnect the hoses from the PECV and plug the vacuum source
hose. Hook one hose of the manometer to the vent port and hook the
Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.
manometer's other hose to atmosphere. Run the engine at idle. The
1 Inspect all connections for proper hookup and check hoses for reading on the manometer should show no pressure difference.
leaks and cracks.
5 The PECV unit should be replaced if any of the above tests is
2 Disconnect the hose that runs from the actuator to the compressor considered a failure. Install the new unit and replace all hoses in the
housing at the actuator. Attach a hand-operated vacuum pump with proper locations.
 Fig. 2.49 Turbocharger with wastegate actuator assembly

CARBURETOR

BRACKET

TVBV
ENGINE CODE G
pecv - PEVR
ENGINE CODE 3

BRACKET

Fig. 2.50 TVBV/PECV/PEVR installation and carburetor-to-plenum hookup

110
LOCKPLATE \

(c®

Fig. 2.52 Plenum/turbocharger assembly

y
 m
r

ENGINE CODE G

Fig. 2.53 Plenum fittings (typical)

Fig. 2.54 Plenum coolant hose hookup

V
112 Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger

7 Empty the cooling system and disconnect the coolant hoses at the
9 Power enrichment vacuum regulator (PEVR) - testing (1979 front and rear of the plenum. Unhook the power brake vacuum line.
and 1980) 8 Unhook the power vacuum at the plenum and disconnect the front
bracket on the plenum by removing the bolt that attaches the bracket
Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding. to the intake manifold. Leave the plenum attached to the bracket.
1 The power enrichment vacuum regulator is located in front of and 9 Remove the 2 bolts that attach the turbine housing to the bracket
between the turbocharger and the carburetor and threads into the on the intake manifold and unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the EGR valve
intake manifold. manifold to the plenum. Loosen the bolts that attach the EGR valve
2 Check the PEVR and hoses for proper installation, cracks and other manifold to the intake manifold.
damage. 10 Next, loosen the clamp that attaches the hose from the AIR by¬
3 Connect 1 hose from a manometer (GM special tool number pass pipe to the check valve and remove the hose from the pipe.
J-23951) between the yellow-striped input hose and the input port 1 1 Unbolt the three bolts that hold the compressor housing to the
(use a T fitting). Connect the remaining manometer hose directly to manifold and remove the turbocharger assembly. The actuator will be
the PEVR output port. attached to the turbo. The turbo will still be attached to the carburetor
4 Start the engine and allow it to idle while observing the man¬ and the plenum. Unhook any hoses still connected to the turbo
ometer. There should be no more than a 14 inch H20 difference. If assembly.
there is, replace the PEVR with a new one. 12 Now, unbolt the turbo/actuator assembly from the carburetor and
5 If the preceding test proves inconclusive, remove the PEVR from plenum.
the intake manifold and plug the manifold port on the valve, then 13 Take out the oil drain from the center housing rotating assembly
reconnect the hoses to the PEVR. and let any oil in the unit drain out.
6 Connect a pressure/vacuum gauge to the PEVR output hose (use 14 Assembly and installation of the unit is the exact reverse pro¬
a T fitting), then start the engine and allow it to idle. The gauge cedure. However, before the turbocharger is made totally operational,
reading should be 7 to 9 in Hg (vacuum). it is a good idea to change the engine oil and filter. This will ensure a
7 Using a hand operated vacuum/pressure pump, apply 3 psi to the constant supply of clean oil to the unit (see special note in Sec. 4 of
manifold signal port of the PEVR. The gauge reading at the output Chapter 1).
hose should now be 1.4 to 2.6 in Hg. If it is difficult to measure such
a low level of vacuum with the gauge in use, apply at least 5 psi to the
manifold signal port and check for a gauge reading of zero at the 11 Plenum - replacement
output hose.
8 If the PEVR does not check out as indicated, replace it with a new 1 Steps 1 through 12 in the previous section cover removal of the
one. plenum. If, however, you intend to replace the unit it will be necessary
to transfer all fittings and hoses to the new unit. Check back to Step
3 for listing of the parts that belong on the plenum. Installation of the
plenum is covered in the previous Section. Reverse the turbo removal
10 Turbocharger - removal and installation
procedure.
Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.
1 Disconnect the exhaust outlet and inlet pipes at the turbo. 12 EGR valve manifold - removal and installation
2 Unhook the oil pipe from the CHRA (Center Housing Rotating
Assembly). Wipe up any spilled oil with a rag. Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding.
3 Undo the nut that attaches the air intake elbow to the carburetor, 1 There are 6 bolts to unfasten in order to remove the EGR valve
then remove the elbow from the carburetor. Leave it attached to the manifold: 2 attach the EGR valve to the valve manifold, 2 attach the
flex tube. valve manifold to the plenum, and 2 attach the valve manifold to the
4 Unhook the throttle, detent and cruise linkages from the intake manifold. More information on the EGR is in Chapter 6.
carburetor. Disconnect the linkage bracket at the plenum. The plenum 2 Unbolt these bolts and unhook the vacuum line that runs to the
is the mixing box located underneath the carburetor. Take care not to EGR valve.
lose any clips, screws or nuts. 3 When installing, first loosely install the bolts that attach the valve
5 Remove the 2 bolts that attach the plenum to the side bracket. manifold to the intake manifold. Next, loosely install the bolts that
6 Unhook the fuel line from the carburetor and plug the end. Take attach the valve manifold to the plenum.
care to disconnect any necessary vacuum hoses and mop up any 4 Tighten the valve manifold-to-intake manifold bolts, then tighten
spilled fuel. the valve manifold-to-plenum bolts.
 Chapter 2 Part C Turbocharger 113

5 Bolt up the EGR valve to the valve manifold and install the vacuum actuator to the turbo and disconnect the hose that runs from
line. compressor housing to the actuator at the housing.
2 Spin the compressor wheel in the Center Housing Rotating
Assembly (CHRA) gently. If there is any binding, replace the CHRA.
13 Turbocharger elbow assembly - removal and installation 3 Unbolt the drain from the CHRA and inspect for carbon build-up
coking and oil sludging. If debris and dirt are minor, clean the area with
1 Jack up the car and block the rear wheels. Set the parking brake. a commercial solvent cleaner. DO NOT use gasoline or other fuels. If
2 Unbolt the turbo exhaust outlet from the catalytic converter. the unit is severely plugged, replace it.
3 Lower the car. 4 Inspect the CHRA compressor wheel for signs of oil leakage. If
4 Remove the clip that attaches the wastegate linkage to the there is leakage, replace the CHRA.
actuator rod and disconnect the turbocharger exhaust outlet from the 5 With the turbo on a bench, unbolt the 6 bolts and 3 clamps that
elbow assembly. hold the compressor housing to the turbine housing. Be careful not to
5 Take off the bolts that attach the elbow assembly to the turbine bang the CHRA when taking the compressor off the turbine.
housing. 6 Look at the CHRA wheels carefully. If there are any broken blades
6 Installation is the reverse procedure. or scratches or other damage, replace the CHRA.
7 If the CHRA is being replaced, lubricate all fitting surfaces and the
center shaft with clean engine oil. Carefully install the unit into the
14 Turbocharger - disassembly and inspection turbine housing and using all the bolts and clamps, bolt the turbo¬
charger back together.
Note: Read Section 2 before proceeding. 8 If the CHRA unit seems OK and you wish to install it back into the
1 Removal of the turbocharger is covered in Section 9. If the turbocharger assembly, take the turbo to your Buick dealer or
actuator is still connected to the turbo (you might have taken it off in competent machine shop and have the journal bearings inspected for
Section 6), it will be necessary to unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the proper clearance.
 Chapter 3 Cooling system
Contents

Air conditioner - checks and maintenance. 14 Heater components - removal and installation. 12
Air conditioner - general description. 13 Radiator - removal and installation. 8
Antifreeze and inhibiting solutions. 3 Thermostat - removal and installation. 6
Automatic fan clutch. 4 Thermostat - testing. 7
Coolant level. 2 Water pump - removal and installation. 10
Fan clutch troubleshooting. 5 Water pump - testing. 9
General information. 1 Water temperature sender - fault diagnosis and replacement. 11

Specifications

System type. Pressurized, with thermostatic control and pump and fan assistance
Pressure cap setting. 1 5 lb/in2
Thermostat type. Wax pellet
Thermostat rating
1974 . 190°F
1975 . 1 90°F
1976 . 195°F
1977 (except California). 1 95°F
1977 California engines. 180°F
1978 through 1 980. 1 95°F
Water pump. Centrifugal vane impeller
Radiator type. Crossflow
Cooling fan. Automatic fluid-clutch fan
Coolant capacity. US quarts
1974 w/350 CID engine .... 17.2 with a/c or Heavy Duty Cooling (HDC) 17.6
w/455 CID. 19.4 with a/c or HDC 19.9
1975 w/231 CID. 15.3 with a/c or HDC 15.5
w/350 CID. 16.9 with a/c or HDC 17.2
1976 w/231 CID. 1 5.5 with a/c 1 5.4
w/350 CID. 16.9 with a/c or HDC 18.7
1977 w/231 CID. 12.8 with a/c 12.7
w/350 CID. 14.8 with a/c or HDC 16.4
w.403 CID. 16.4 with a/c or HDC 18.0
1978 w/231 CID. 13.0 with a/c or HDC 13.2
w/305-350 CID. 19.2 with a/c or HDC 19.6
1979 w/231 CID. 14.5 with 4-bbl carb/HDC 16.4
w/301 CID. 17.6 w/4-bbl and a/c-HDC 17.9
w/350 CID. 16.4 with a/c or HDC 17.9
1980 w/231 CID (3.8 liter) 13.0 with a/c or HDC 13.8
w/301 CID (4.9 liter) .... 17.6 with a/c or HDC 18.1
w/305 CID (5.0 liter) .. 17.6 with a/c or HDC 18.1

Torque specifications ft-lb Nm

Pump cover-to-timing chain cover. 7 9
Fan pulley. 20 27
Thermostat housing-to-intake manifold. 20 27
Fan shroud-to-upper radiator mounting. 10 13
Alternator bracket-to-w/pump timing chain cover 20 27
 Chapter 3 Cooling system 115

and check the tightness of the cylinder head bolts as such solutions are
1 General information searching.
The exact mixture of antifreeze to water which you should use
The engine cooling system is of the pressurized type with pump depends upon the prevailing weather conditions. The mixture should
and fan assistance. It comprises a radiator, flow and return water contain at least 50 percent antifreeze, offering protection to -34°F.
hoses, water pump, thermostat and vehicle interior heater. Under no circumstances should the mixture contain more than 70
The system is pressurized by means of a spring-loaded radiator percent antifreeze.
filler cap which prevents premature boiling by increasing the boiling
point of the coolant. If the coolant temperature goes above this
4 Automatic fan clutch
increased boiling point, the extra pressure in the system forces the
radiator cap internal spring-loaded valve off its seat and exposes the
Designed to vary the speed of the fan in relation to the tem¬
overflow pipe down which displaced coolant escapes.
perature of the engine, fan clutches permit the use of a high-delivery
It is important to check that the radiator cap is in good condition
fan that ensures excellent cooling ability at reduced engine speeds.
and that the spring behind the sealing washer has not weakened or
Use of this type of cooling apparatus eliminates overcooling, power
corroded. Most service stations have a machine for testing that the cap
loss at high engine speeds and excessive noise, and also helps to
operates at the specified pressure.
improve fuel mileage.
On vehicles built after 1974, a coolant recovery system is
Basically, the automatic fan clutch has two modes of operation,
provided. This consists of a plastic reservoir into which the coolant
engaged and disengaged. The fan only operates when engine tem¬
which normally escapes down the overflow pipe is retained. When the
perature demands extra cooling. At high speed or when the engine is
engine cools and the coolant contracts, coolant is drawn back into the
cold, the fan clutch disengages the fan and the fan does not operate.
radiator and thus maintains the system at full capacity.
The fan clutch is controlled by a bimetallic, thermostatic control coil
This is a continuous process and provided the level in the reservoir
located on the front of the fan/fan clutch assembly. As engine
is correctly maintained, no topping-up of the radiator or cooling system
temperature rises, silicone fluid held in reservoir in the clutch is
will be necessary.
released into the fan clutch pump. The silicone fills grooves in the
The cooling system functions in the following manner. The water
clutch housing and the resultant friction causes the fan to engage. As
pump discharges engine coolant to each bank of cylinders; this flows
engine temperature drops, the silicone is pumped back into the
from the front of each bank around each cylinder and towards the rear
reservoir and the fan stops working.
of the block. Passages in the block and cylinder head direct coolant
around the inlet and exhaust ports and around the exhaust valve guide
inserts. A metered amount of coolant is also diverted to cool the spark 5 Fan clutch - troubleshooting
plug region.
When the thermostat is closed, coolant is re-directed through a The fan clutch unit is not designed to be repaired. If it is found that
small passage in the front right-hand cylinder head and block to a the unit is malfunctioning, it should be replaced. Attempts to repair the
mating hole in the bottom of the water pump runner. At normal fan clutch or straighten fan blades will result in a change of balance
running temperature, the thermostat is open and coolant is directed and/or durability and should not be tried.
from the intake manifold through the coolant outlet and thermostat to Looseness - Up to -J- in lateral movement in the fan clutch
the radiator. assembly when the fan is operating is normal and is not cause for
The radiator is of the crossflow type. Hot engine coolant enters the replacement.
radiator at the top left-hand side, is cooled by the inrush of cold air Noise - Excessive fan noise will generally occur at engine speeds
through the core (this is created by the fan and ram-effect of air, over 2500 rpm if the clutch is locked up due to internal failure. If the
resulting from forward motion of the vehicle) and returns to the engine fan cannot be turned by hand or there is a grinding sound as the fan
via the outlet at the right-hand side. is rotated by hand, the unit should be replaced. There is often,
Later models are fitted with a fluid-type fan coupling. This is a however, noise when the fan is first engaged after motor start-up and
sealed unit, thermostatically controlled which slips' the fan blades when the clutch is engaged for maximum cooling effort. These two
according to engine temperature and speed, to avoid overcooling with conditions are inherent in the normal operation of the unit.
consequent loss of fuel economy. Silicone leak - Small fluid leaks occasionally occur around the
bimetallic coil and the bearing assembly. As long as the leak is not
excessive, service is not necessary.
Engine overheating - If a persistent problem with overheating
2 Coolant level
develops replacement of the fan clutch may be necessary. However,
before replacement of the unit is effected the cooling system should be
1 Note: if the radiator cap has to be removed when the engine is
checked for radiator fluid loss and possible leak. The fan belt should be
hot, rotate the cap slowly counterclockwise to the detent and allow the
tested for the proper tension and the thermostat and all hoses should
residual pressure to escape. Do not press the cap down until all hissing
also be checked. The fan clutch can be tested by the following
has stopped and take extreme care that the hands are not scalded.
procedure: start with a cold engine to ensure disengagement of clutch.
2 The level of the coolant in the expansion reservoir should be
Run the motor and immediately check for excessive freewheeling. To
maintained at the FULL HOT' mark. Any checking and topping-up
do this spin the fan by hand; if the unit revolves more than 5 complete
should be carried out with the engine and cooling system at normal
turns it should be replaced.
operating temperature.

6 Thermostat - removal and installation

3 Antifreeze and inhibiting solutions
1 The thermostat is basically a restriction valve which is actuated by
It is recommended that the cooling system is filled with a a thermostatic element. It is mounted inside a housing on the engine
water/ethylene glycol based antifreeze solution which will give protec¬ and is designed to open and close at predetermined temperatures to
tion down to at least - 20°F at all times. This provides protection allow coolant to warm-up the engine or cool it.
against corrosion and increases the coolant boiling point. When 2 To remove the thermostat for replacement or testing, begin by
handling antifreeze, take care that it is not spilled on the vehicle disconnecting the negative battery cable.
paintwork, since it will invariably cause damage if not removed 3 Remove the air cleaner for better working access.
immediately. 4 Drain the coolant into a suitable container for disposal. See
The cooling system should be drained, flushed and refilled every Chapter 1 for more information on this. It is not necessary to drain the
alternate Fall. The use of antifreeze solutions for periods of longer than coolant from the engine.
two years is likely to cause damage and encourage the formation of 5 Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing
rust and scale due to the corrosion inhibitors gradually losing their (photo).
efficiency. 6 Remove the thermostat housing bolts and the housing from the
Before adding antifreeze to the system, check all hose connections engine (photo). On some models, the alternator mounting bracket will
 116 Chapter 3 Cooling system

6.5 Disconnecting the upper radiator hose 6.6 As the housing is lifted away from the 6.7 Lift the thermostat out of its bore, noting
from the thermostat housing engine, the thermostat becomes visible how it is installed

have to be disconnected first, as this bracket is attached to the housing transmission cooling lines if applicable (photo).
mounting stud. Also, late model vehicles may have a TVS switch 4 Disconnect the radiator shroud and hang it over the fan (photos)
installed in the thermostat housing. If this is the case, disconnect each The shroud is attached with screws going into the radiator with clips
of the vacuum hoses on the switch (noting their installed positions) or staples across the bottom.
and then unscrew the switch from the housing. 5 Remove the upper metal panel at the top of the radiator (photo).
7 After lifting the thermostat housing from the engine, the 6 Lift the radiator straight up and out of the engine compartment. Be
thermostat will be visible and can be removed from the engine (photo). careful not to scratch the paint on the front nosepiece. If coolant drips
Note how the thermostat sits in the recess, as it must be replaced in on any body paint, immediately wash it off with clear water as the
this same position. antifreeze solution can damage the finish.
8 Before installation, use a gasket scraper or putty knife to carefully 7 With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks or
remove all traces of the old gasket on the thermostat housing and the damage. If in need of repairs, have a professional radiator shop or
engine sealing surface. Do not allow the gasket particles to drop down dealer perform the work as special welding techniques are required.
into the intake manifold. 8 Bugs and dirt can be cleaned from the radiator by using com¬
9 Place a ^-in bead of RTV or equivalent sealer around the sealing pressed air and a soft brush. Do not bend the cooling fins as this is
surface on the engine and place the thermostat into its recess. done.
10 Immediately place the thermostat housing with sealer and a new 9 Inspect the rubber mounting pads which the radiator sits on and
gasket into position and torque-tighten the attaching bolts. replace as necessary (photos).
1 1 Where applicable, install the alternator brace and/or the TVS 10 Lift the radiator into position making sure it is seated in the
switch and vacuum hoses. mounting pads.
12 Connect the upper radiator hose and tighten the hose clamp 1 1 Install the upper panel, shroud and hoses in the reverse order of
securely. removal.
13 Connect the negative battery cable and fill the radiator with the 12 Connect the negative battery cable and fill the radiator as
proper amount of antifreeze and water (see Chapter 1). described in Chapter 1.
14 With the radiator cap removed, start the engine and run, until the 13 Start the engine and check for leaks. Allow the engine to reach
upper radiator hose becomes hot. When this hose is hot, the normal operating temperature (upper radiator hose hot) and add
thermostat should be in the open position. At this point, add more coolant until the level reaches the bottom of the filler neck.
coolant if necessary to reach the top of the filler neck. 14 Install cap with arrows aligned with the overflow tube.
15 Install the radiator cap, making sure the arrows are aligned with
the overflow hose.
9 Water pump - testing

7 Thermostat - testing Note: A failure in the water pump can cause serious engine damage
due to overheating. The pump will not be able to circulate cooled
1 The only way to test the operation of the thermostat is by water through the engine. There are three ways in which to check the
removing the unit from the engine. Usually it is easier and more operation of the water pump while it is still installed on the engine. If
economical to replace the suspect unit. However, testing the the pump is suspect, it should be replaced with a new or factory-rebuilt
thermostat will help you to determine whether it is the source of an unit.
overheating problem. To test, first remove the thermostat as described 1 With the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature,
in Section 5. squeeze the upper radiator hose. If the water pump is working
2 Inspect the thermostat for excessive corrosion or other damage. properly, a pressure surge should be felt as the hose is released.
Replace it if either of these conditions is present. 2 Water pumps are equipped with 'weep' or vent holes (photo). If a
3 Place the thermostat in hot water. The water must be 25 degrees failure occurs to the bladder of the pump, small amounts of water will
hotter than the temperature designation stamped on the unit. A leak from these weep holes. In most cases it will be necessary to use
kitchen meat thermometer will test the temperature of the water a flashlight from under the car to see evidence of leakage from this
nicely. Make sure that the water is agitated to ensure even heating of point in the pump body.
the thermostat, thermometer and water. The valve should fully open. 3 If the water pump shaft bearings fail there may be a squealing
4 Now remove the thermostat from the water (using a piece of bent sound at the front of the engine while it is running. Shaft wear can be
wire) and place it in water that is 10 degrees F below the temperature felt if the water pump pulley is forced up and down. Do not mistake
designation of the thermostat. The thermostat valve should close fully. drive belt slippage, which also causes a squealing sound, for water
pump failure.

8 Radiator - removal and installation

10 Water pump - removal and installation
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2 Drain the radiator referring to Chapter 1. Note: It is not economical or practical to overhaul a water pump. If
3 Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses and the automatic failure occurs, a new or rebuilt unit should be purchased to replace the
 117
r

RADIATOR SUPPORT

Fig. 3.1 Typical radiator and shroud mountings (Sec 8)

A Buick engines B Chevrolet engines

_
J
 8.4a Screws secure the fan shroud to the radiator 8.4b With the shroud disconnected, hang it over the fan, away from
the radiator

8.5 The radiator top panel is secured by bolts across the top 8.9a One of the upper rubber mounting pads

8.9b A lower mounting pad and its location to radiator

9.2 The "weep" hole out of which water leaks when the internal
bladder has failed
 Chapter 3 Cooling system 119

Fig. 3.2 Radiator mountings (Sec 8) Fig. 3.3 Typical drivebelt routings (Sec 8)

faulty water pump. 19 Adjust all drivebelts to the proper tension (see Chapter 1).
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. 20 Connect the negative battery cable and fill the radiator with a
2 Drain the radiator, referring to Chapter 1 if necessary. mixture of ethylene glycol antifreeze and water in a 50/50 mixture.
3 Reaching inside the radiator shroud, remove the bolts which Start the engine arid allow to idle until the upper radiator hose gets
secure the fan to the water pump hub. Remove the fan and spacer (if hot. Check for leaks. With engine hot, fill with more coolant mixture
equipped). A thermostatic fan clutch must remain in the in-car until the level is at the bottom of the filler neck. Install radiator cap and
position. check coolant level periodically over the next few miles of driving.
4 Remove the bolts which secure the radiator shroud to the radiator
and lift the shroud up and out of the engine compartment (refer to
Section 8). 11 Water temperature sender - fault diagnosis and replacement
5 Loosen the two mounting bolts for the alternator. There is an
adjusting strap bolt located in the slotted bracket and a long pivot bolt 1 The indicator system is composed of a lamp mounted on the
under the alternator. instrument panel and a sender unit which is located on the left-hand
6 Push the alternator inward to relieve tension on the drive belt and cylinder head.
then remove the drive belt from the alternator and water pump pulleys. 2 In the event of an unusual indication or a fault developing, check
7 Remove the water pump pulley from the hub. the coolant level in the system and then ensure that the connecting
8 Completely remove the alternator strap bolt and pivot the alter¬ wiring between the gauge and the sender unit is secure.
nator away from the water pump. Then lift the mounting bracket off 3 When the ignition switch is turned on and the starter motor is
the engine (photo). turning, the indicator lamp should be illuminated (overheated engine
9 Disconnect the wiring at the rear of the alternator using identifying indication). If the lamp is not on, the bulb may be burned out, the
pieces of tape if necessary to help in reinstallation. ignition switch may be faulty or the circuit may be open.
10 Remove the alternator pivot bolt and lift the alternator off the 4 As soon as the engine starts, the lamp should go out and remain
engine (photo). so unless the engine overheats. Failure of the lamp to go out may be
11 Loosen the two mounting bolts for the AIR pump. Completely due to the wiring being grounded between the lamp and the sender
remove the bracket which is attached to the water pump, then pivot unit, a defective temperature sender unit or a faulty ignition switch.
the AIR pump away from the engine (photo). On some models, the AIR 5 If the sender unit is to be replaced it is simply unscrewed from the
pump pulley must first be removed from the pump to gain access to left-hand cylinder head and a replacement installed. There will be
the bracket bolts. some coolant spillage, so check the level after the replacement has
12 If equipped with power steering, loosen the adjusting bolt and been installed.
completely remove the pivot bolt which passes through the water
pump (photo). Swing the pump away from the engine as far as
possible without crimping the hoses. 12 Heater components - removal and installation
13 Disconnect the lower radiator hose, heater hose and by-pass hose
(if equipped) from the water pump housing (photo).
Blower assembly
14 Remove the remaining bolts which secure the water pump to the 1 If only the blower motor is to be replaced, simply disconnect the
front of the engine block. Lift the water pump away from the engine wiring and remove the screws attaching the motor to the case.
and out of the engine compartment (photos). 2 To remove the case, drain the radiator and disconnect the heater
15 If installing a new or rebuilt water pump, transfer the heater hose
hoses (inside the engine compartment) where they attach to the case
fitting from the old pump to the new one (photo).
at the firewall.
16 Clean the gasket surfaces of the engine of all excess gasket
3 Disconnect all electrical connections and remove all screws
material using a gasket scraper or putty knife (photos). attaching the assembly to the firewall. The case and the heater core
17 Use a thin coat of gasket sealer on the new gaskets and install to
can now be removed.
the new pump. Place the pump into position on the engine and secure 4 Upon installation, be sure to make an air-tight seal around the
with the bolts. Do not torque-tighten these bolts until the power
case.
steering pump bracket and air pump brackets have been installed, as
these brackets are secured with the water pump bolts.
18 Install the engine components in the reverse order of removal, Control head
5 Remove the trim plate by pulling rearward and unsnapping from
tightening the appropriate fasteners to torque specifications.
 10.10 Lifting the alternator off the engine 1 0.11 This bracket for the air pump mounts to the water pump and
must be removed (not all models)

10.12 The long pivot bolt for the power steering pump also mounts to 10.13a Disconnecting the lower radiator hose from the water pump
the water pump (Chevrolet only)

10.13b Disconnecting the heater hcse from the top of the water pump 10.14a The water pump as it attaches to the front cover assembly
(non-Chevrolet engines)
10.14b The water pump removed from the front cover showing the 10.1 5 If a replacement pump is used, transfer all hose fittings from the
rear side old pump to the new pump

10.1 6a The gasket surfaces must be perfectly clean before the 1 0.1 6b Cleaning the gasket surface of the front cover (non-Chevrolet
replacement water pump is installed (Chevrolet engine shown) engines)

Fig. 3.4 Heater control head assembly (Sec 12) Fig. 3.5 Heater blower assembly (Sec 12)
 122
Chapter 3 Cooling system

the instrument panel.

5 When, during the cooling operation, the air temperature is cooled
6 Remove the 4 screws which secure the control head. too low for comfort, it is warmed to the required level by the heater.
7 Pull the head away from dash slightly, then disconnect all the When the controls are set to 'HEATING ONLY', the evaporator will
wiring and cables making note of their installed positions. cease to function and ambient air will be warmed by the heater in a
8 Install in the reverse order. similar manner to that just described.
6 The main units of the system comprise the evaporator, an engine
driven compressor and the condenser.
13 Air conditioner - general description 7 In view of the toxic nature of the chemicals and gases employed
in the system, no part of the system should be disconnected by the
1 Three types of systems may be encountered. The Four-Season home mechanic. Due to the need for specialized evacuating and
System in which both the heating and cooling functions are performed charging equipment, such work should be left to your GM dealer or a
by the one system. Air entering the vehicle passes through the cooling refrigeration specialist.
unit (evaporator) and then around the heating unit, following the 8 The Comfortron System is essentially the same as the Four
'reheat' principle. Season System except that it is fully automatic in operation.
2 The evaporator cools the air passing through it and, by means of 9 The GM Air Conditioner is a dealer installed unit and operates
its built-in thermostatic switch, controls the operation of the com¬ independently of the vehicle heater using only recirculated air.
pressor.
3 The system operates by air (outside or recirculated) entering the
evaporator core by the action of the blower, where it receives 14 Air conditioner - checks and maintenance
maximum cooling if the controls are set for cooling. When the air
leaves the evaporator, it enters the heater/air conditioner duct as¬ 1 Regularly inspect the fins of the condenser (located ahead of the
sembly and by means of a manually controlled deflector, it either radiator) and if necessary brush away leaves and bugs.
passes through or bypasses the heater core in the correct proportions 2 Clean the evaporator drain tubes free of dirt.
to provide the desired vehicle interior temperature. 3 Check the condition of the system hoses and if there is any sign
4 Distribution of this air is then regulated by a vacuum actuated of deterioration or hardening, have them replaced by your dealer.
deflector and passes through the various outlets according to require¬ 4 At similar intervals, check and adjust the compressor drivebelt as
ments. described in Chapter 1.
Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems
Refer to Chapter 13 for specifications and information applicable to later models

Contents

Air cleaner servicing. 2

Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - accelerator pump rod Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - choke coil lever
adjustment. 18 adjustment. 40
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - automatic choke coil Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - fast idle adjustment. 39
adjustment. 23 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) fast idle cam (choke rod)
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - choke coil lever adjustment. 19 adjustment. 41
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - choke unloader adjustment.. 21 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - front vacuum break
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - fast idle cam adjustment. 20 adjustment. 43
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - idle adjustment. 17 Carburetor (Rochester M4MC/M4MCA/M4ME) - idle
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - overhaul. 24 adjustment. 37
Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - vacuum break adjustment.... 22 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - overhaul. 52
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - accelerator pump adjustment. 15 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - rear vacuum break
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke coil rod adjustment. 14 adjustment - 350. 44
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke rod adjustment... 11 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - secondary closing
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke unloader adjustment. 13 adjustment. 49
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke vacuum break adjustment.. 12 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - secondary opening
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - idle adjustment. 10 adjustment. 50
Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - overhaul. 16 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - secondary throttle valve
Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - air valve dashpot adjustment. 35 lock out adjustment. 48
Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - choke coil rod adjustment. 34 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - unloader adjustment. 47
Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - choke rod adjustment. 32 Carburetor (M2M series) - fast idle adjustment. 26
Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - choke vacuum break Carburetor (M2M series) - idle adjustment. 25
adjustment. 33 Carburetor (M2M series) - overhaul. 27
Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - idle adjustment. 31 Carburetor (E2M-E4M series) - fast idle adjustment. 29
Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - overhaul. 36 Carburetor (E2M-E4M series) - idle speed adjustment. 28
Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - accelerator pump rod Carburetor (E2M-E2M series) - overhaul. 30
adjustment. 38 Carburetors - description. 8
Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - air valve dashpot Carburetors - removal and installation. 9
adjustment. 42 Exhaust system - general description. 53
Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - air valve spring wind up Fuel filter - replacement. 5
adjustment. 51 Fuel pump - description and testing. 3
Carburetor (Rochester M4MC and M4MCA) — automatic choke Fuel pump - removal and installation. 4
coil adjustment. 45 Fuel tank - removal and installation. 6
Carburetor (Rochester M4ME) - automatic choke coil Fuel tank - repairs and storage. 7
adjustment. 46 General description. 1

Specifications

1974
General
Fuel tank capacity. 22 gals
Fuel pump pressure
350 CID engine. 3 psi min
455 CID engine. 4y psi min
Fuel pump volume. 1 pt in 30 sec. or less
2GV carburetor
Float level. 15/32 in
Float drop adjustment. 1 9/32 in
Pump rod adjustment. 1 1 5/32 in
Choke tang adjustment. 0.080 in
Choke unloader adjustment. 0.180 in
Vacuum break adjustment (350)
Primary. 0.140 in
Secondary. 0.120
Vacuum break adjustment (455)
Primary. 0.160 in
Secondary. 0.120 in
 124 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Idle speed
Solenoid de-energized. 500 rpm in D'
Solenoid energized. 650 rpm in 'D'
Idle mixture. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment
4MV carburetor
Float level
455 CID engine. 13/32 in
350 CID engine. 15/32 in
Pump rod location
455 CID engine. Inner
350 CID engine. Outer
Pump adjustment
455 CID engine. f in
350 CID engine. 0.306 in
Choke rod adjustment. 0.130 in
Vacuum break adjustment (455)
Primary. 0.215 in
Secondary. 0.160 in
Vacuum break adjustment (350)
Primary. 0.170 in
Secondary. 0.150 in
Air valve dash pot. 0.150 in
Secondary opening adjustment. 0.070 in
Secondary closing adjustment. 0.020 in
Air valve spring wind-up
455 CID engine. re turn
350 CID engine. re turn
Idle speed. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment
Idle mixture. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment

1975
General
Fuel tank capacity. 22 gals
Fuel pump pressure. 3 psi min
Fuel pump volume. 1 pint in 30 sec or less
2GC carburetor
Float level
231 CID engine. 13/32 in
350 CID engine. 15/32 in
Float drop adjustment. 1 9/32 in
Pump rod adjustment.
If in
Choke tang adjustment. 0.080 in
Choke unloader adjustment
231 Cl D engine. 0.140 in
350 CID engine. 0.180 in
Vacuum break adjustment (231)
Primary. 0.120 in
Secondary. 0.120 in
Vacuum break adjustment (350)
Primary. 0.140 in
Secondary. 0.120 in
Idle speed. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment
Idle mixture. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment
4MC carburetor
Float level.
re in
Choke cover setting. 1 notch rich
Pump rod location. outer hole
Pump rod adjustment. 1 5/32 in
Choke rod adjustment. 0.095 in
Vacuum break adjustment (sedans)
Primary. 0.130 in
Secondary. 0.150 in
Vacuum break adjustment (wagons)
Primary. 0.145 in
Secondary. 0.130 in
Air valve dash pot adjustment. 0.015 in
Secondary opening adjustment. center of slot
Secondary closing adjustment. 0.020 in
Air valve spring adjustment. f turn
Choke unloader. 0.240 in

1976
General
Fuel tank capacity. 22 gals
Fuel pump pressure. 3 psi min
Fuel pump volume. 1 pint in 30 sec or less
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 125

2GC carburetor
Float level
231 CID engine. 16 m
350 CID engine. 1 5/32 in
Float drop adjustment. 1 5/32 in
Pump rod adjustment
231 CID engine. 1 19/32
350 CID engine. 1 11/32 in
Intermediate choke rod adjustment. 0.120 in
Choke cover setting. 1 notch rich
Fast idle cam (choke rod). 0.080 in
Vacuum break adjustment (231)
Primary. 0.120 in
Secondary. 0.100 in
Vacuum break adjustment (350)
Primary. 0.140 in
Secondary. 0.100 in
Choke unloader adjustment
231 cu in. 0.140 in
350 cu in. 0.180 in
4MC carburetor
Float level. I in
Pump rod location. outer hole
Pump rod adjustment. i in
Choke coil lever adjustment. 0.120 in
Choke rod (fast idle cam) adjustment. 0.095 in
Air valve dash pot adjustment. 0.015 in
Vacuum break adjustment
Primary. 0.130 in
Secondary. 0.130 in
Choke cover setting. Index
Choke unloader adjustment. 0.250 in
Secondary throttle valve locknut adjustment 0.015 in
Secondary closing adjustment. 0.020 in
Secondary opening adjustment. center of slot
Air valve spring adjustment. | turn

1977
General
Fuel tank capacity. 22 gals
Fuel pump pressure
231 CID engine. 3 psi
305 CID engine. 7.5 to 9.0 psi
350 CID engine (code H,J). 3 psi
350 CID engine (code R). 5.5 to 6.5 psi
350 CID engine (code L). 7.5 to 9.0 psi
403 CID engine. 5.5 to 6.5 psi
Fuel pump volume. 1 pint in 30 sec or less
2GC-2GE carburetors
Note: See carburetor identification for model numbers used below
Float level
All 2GC except below. 19/32 in
17057140. 1 5/32 in
All 2GE. Te in
Float drop adjustment
All except below. 1 5/32 in
17057108 & 17057110 . 1 9/32 in
Pump rod adjustment
All 26C except below. 1 2/32 in
17057140. 1ft in
All 26E except below. 1 17/32 in
17057141 . 1 y in
17057145 . 1 y in
17057147 . 1 y in
17057445 - 448 . 1 y in
Choke coil lever adjustment. 0.120 in
Automatic choke coil adjustment
All 2GC except below. Index
17057140. 1 notch rich
All 2GE. 1 notch rich
Choke rod (fast idle) adjustment
All 2GC except below. 0.260 in
17057140. 0.080 in
All 2GE. 0.080 in
Vacuum break (throttle lever side)
All 2GC. 0.140 in
126 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

All 2GE except below. 0.110 in

17057143 - 17057144 0.130 in
17057446 - 17057448 0.130 in
Vacuum break (choke side)
All 2GC except below. 0.130 in
17057110 . 0.160 in
17057140 . 0.100 in
All 2GE except below. 0.040 in
17057143 - 17057144 0.100 in
17057180 - 17057182 0.060 in
17057445 - 17057446 0.1 10 in
17057447 . 0.100 in
17057448 . 0.1 10 in
Choke unloader adjustment
All 2GC. 0.325 in
All 2GE. 0.140 in
Idle speed. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment
Idle mixture. see tune-up decal inside engine compartment

M4MC carburetor
Float adjustment
All except below. 15/32 in
17057241 . 5
16
5
17057248 . 16
17057250 . 13/32 in
17057253 . 13/32 in
17057255 . 13/32 in
17057256 . 13/32 in
17057258 . 13/32 in
17057550. 13/32 in
17057553 . 13/32 in
Pump adjustment
All except below. 9/32 in (inner hole)
17057582 . 9/32 in (outer hole)
17057584. 9/32 in (outer hole)
17057241 . •§■ in (outer hole)
17057248 . 1 in (outer hole)
Choke coil lever adjustment. 0.120 in
Fast idle adjustment. 3 turns
Choke rod (fast idle cam)
All except below. 0.100 in
17057202 . 0.325 in
17057204. 0.325 in
17057502 . 0.325 in
17057504 . 0.325 in
17057582 . 0.325 in
17057584. 0.325 in
17057241 . 0.095 in
17057248. 0.095 in
Air valve rod adjustment
All except below. 0.015 in
17057250. 0.030 in
17057253 . 0.030 in
17057255 . 0.030 in
17057256. 0.030 in
17057258 . 0.030 in
17057550 . 0.030 in
17057553 . 0.030 in
Front vacuum break adjustment
All except below. 0.135 in
17057248 . 0.130 in
17057258 . 0.215 in
17057550. 0.215 in
17057553 . 0.215 in
17057202 . 0.160 in
17057204. 0.215 in
17057502 . 0.165 in
17057504 .j. 0.230 in
17057582 . 0.180 in
17057584. 0.245 in
Rear vacuum break adjustment
All except below. 0.180 in
17057258 . 0.225 in
17057550... 0.225 in
17057553 . 0.225 in
17057248 . 0.110 in
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 127

Automatic choke coil adjustment

All except below. 2 notches rich
17057241 . 1 notch rich
1 7057248 . Index
17057202 . 2 notches lean
17057204. 2 notches lean
17057502 . 2 notches lean
17057504 . 2 notches lean
17057582 . 2 notches lean
17057584. 2 notches lean
Unloader adjustment
All except below. 0.220 in
17057241 . 0.240 in
17057248. 0.240 in
17057204. 0.280 in
17057502 . 0.280 in
17057504. 0.280 in
17057582 . 0.280 in
17057584 . 0.280 in
Secondary lockout adjustment. 0.01 5 in
Secondary closing adjustment. 0.020 in
Secondary opening adjustment. center of slot
Air valve spring adjustment
All except below. y turn
17057204 . i turn
17057502 . i turn
17057504 . i turn
17057582 . | turn
17057584 . | turn
17057241 . | turn
17057248 . | turn

1978
M2MC carburetor
Float level
All M2MC. 11/32 in
All M2ME. 1 in
Pump adjustment
All M2MC. \ in (outer hole)
All M2ME except below. 9/32 in (inner hole)
17058496 . § in (outer hole)
Choke coil lever adjustment (all). 0.120 in
Fast idle adjustment (bench setting). see text
Choke rod (fast idle cam) adjustment - angle gauge method
All M2MC. 23.5°
All M2ME except below. 14.5°
17058496 . 15°
Front vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
All M2MC. 26°
All M2ME except below. 21°
17058496 . 24°
Rear vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
All M2MC. 36°
All M2ME except below. 19°
17058496 . 34°
Automatic choke coil adjustment - angle gauge method
All M2ME. 2 notches lean
All M2ME. 1 notch rich
Unloader adjustment - angle gauge method
All M2MC. 35°
All M2ME except below. 50°
17058496 . 38°
A/C idle speed adjustment (on car). see tune-up decal in engine compartment
Fast idle adjustment (on car). see tune-up decal in engine compartment
2GC-2GE carburetors
Float level
2GC 17058104, 17058105 . 1 5/32 in
2GC 17058108 . 19/32 in
2GC 17058110. 19/32 in
2GC 17058112 . 19/32 in
2GC 170581 14 . 19/32 in
2GC 17058126 . 1 9/32 in
2GC 17058128 . 1 9/32 in
2GC 17058404, 17058405 . y in
2GC 17058408 . 21/32 in
2GC 17058410. 21/32 in
128 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

2GC 17058412 . 21/32 in

2GC 17058414 . 21/32 in
2GE all. re in
Float drop adjustment
All 2GC. 1 9/32 in
All 2GE. 1 5/32 in
Pump rod adjustment
All 2GE except below. 1 19/32 in
17058143, 17058448 . 1ft in
17058144, 17058188 . If in
Choke coil lever adjustment
2GC all. 0.120 in
2GE all. 0.120 in
Automatic choke coil adjustment
2GC 17058104 . Index
2GC 17058105 . Index
2GC 17058108 . Index
2GC 17058110 . Index
2GC 17058112 . Index
2GC 17058114 . Index
2GC 17058126 . Index
2GC 17058128 . Index
2GC 17058404 . y notch lean
2GC 17058405 . y notch lean
2GC 17058408 . f notch lean
2GC 17058410. y notch lean
2GC 17058412 . f notch lean
2GC 17058414 . y notch lean
All 2GE. 1 notch rich
Choke rod (fast idle cam) adjustment
All 2GC. 0.260 in
All 2GE. 0.080 in
Vacuum break adjustment (throttle lever side)
All 2GE except below. 0.1 10 in
17058141, 17058147, 17058444, 17058448 0.140 in
17058446 . 0.130 in
17058447 . 0.150 in
17058188 . 0.120 in
Vacuum break adjustment (choke side)
2GC 17058104. 0.130 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
2GC 17058105 . 0.130 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
2GC 17058108 . 0.130 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
2GC 170581 10. 0.130 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
2GC 17058114 . 0.130 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
17058126, 17058128 . 0.130 reset to 0.150 at first tune-up
17058404 . 0.140 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
17058405 . 0.140 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
17058408 . 0.140 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
17058410. 0.140 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
17058412 . 0.1 40 reset to 0.1 60 at first tune-up
17058414 . 0.140 reset to 0.160 at first tune-up
All 2GE except below. 0.080 in
17058140. 0.020 in
17058144, 17058145 . 0.060 in
17058141, 17058147, 17058448 . 0.100 in
17058446, 17058447 . 0.110 in
17058185, 17058187, 17058188 . 0.050 in
Choke unloader adjustment
All 2GC. 0.325 in
All 2GE except below. 0.140 in
17058145 . 0.160 in
17058148, 17058149 . 0.150 in
Idle speed adjustment - without solenoid. see tune-up decal in engine compartment
Idle speed adjustment - with solenoid. see tune-up decal in engine compartment
A/C idle speed adjustment. see tune-up decal in engine compartment

M4MC-M4ME carburetors
Float levels
All M4ME. 7/32 in
All M4MC except below. 15/32 in
17058241 . £ in
17058250. 1 3/32 in
17058253 . 1 3/32 in
17058257 . 1 3/32 in
17058258 . 1 3/32 in
17058550. 1 3/32 in
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 129

Pump adjustment
All M4ME. 9/32 in (inner hole)
All M4MC except below. 9/32 in (inner hole)
17058241 . f in (outer hole)
Choke coil lever adjustment (all). 0.120 in
Fast idle adjustment (bench setting)
M4ME. see text
M4MC. see text
Choke rod (fast idle cam) adjustment - angle gauge method
All M4ME. 14.5°
All M4MC except below . 46°
17058241 . 18°
17058250. 18°
17058253 . 18°
17058254 . 19°
17058257 . 19°
17058258 . 19°
17058550. 19°
17058553 . 19°
17058559 . 19°
Air valve rod adjustment
All M4ME. 0.015 in
All M4MC except below. 0.015 in
17058250. 0.030 in
17058253 . 0.030 in
17058254. 0.030 in
17058257 . 0.030 in
17058258 . 0.030 in
17058550. 0.030 in
17058553 . 0.030 in
17058559 . 0.030 in
Front vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
All M4ME. 21 0
M4MC
17058241 . 21.5°
17058250.17058253 . 23°
17058254 . 24°
17058257 . 24°
17058258 . 24°
17058550. 24°
17058553 . 24°
17058559 . 25°
1705828,17058582,17058584 . 30°
17058502,17058504 . 28°
17058282 . 27°
17058284 . 27°
17058202 . 27°
17058204 . 27°
Rear vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
All M4ME. 21°
All M4MC except below. 36.5°
17058241 . 19°
17058250.17058253 . 30.5°
Automatic choke coil adjustment (M4MC)
All M4MC except below. 2 notches rich
17058254, 17058559 . 3 notches rich
17058228 . 2 notches lean
17058502 . 2 notches lean
17058504 . 2 notches lean
17058582 . 2 notches lean
17058584 . 2 notches lean
17058202 . 2 notches lean
1 7058204 . 2 notches lean
17058282 . Index
17058284. ,ndex
Automatic choke coil adjustment (all M4ME). Index
Unloader adjustment - angle gauge method
All M4ME. 38°
All M4MC except below. 42°
17058250. 35°
17058253 . 35°
17058254 . 350
17058257 . 350
17058258 . 350
17058550. 350
 130 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

17058553 . 35°
17058241 . 38°
17058559 . 36.5°
Secondary lockout adjustment (all). 0.015 in
Secondary closing adjustment (all). 0.020 in
Secondary opening adjustment. see Figure
Air valve spring adjustment
All M4ME. £ turn
All M4MC except below. •y turn
17058241 . | turn
17058582 . j turn
17058584 . £ turn
17058282 . i turn
17058284 . i turn
17058202 . i turn
17058204 . -5- turn
17058502 . i turn
17058504 . j turn
17058228. 1 turn
Idle speed adjustment — without solenoid. see tune-up decal in engine compartment
Idle speed adjustment with solenoid. see tune-up decal in engine compartment
1979
M2MC - M2ME carburetors
Float level
M2MC
17059134. 1 5/32 in
17059136 . 1 5/32 in
M2ME
17059193 . 1 3/32 in
17059194. 11/32 in
17059190. 11/32 in
17059191 . 11/32 in
17059491 . 11/32 in
17059492 . 1 1/32 in
17059196 . 1 1/32 in
17059498 . 11/32 in
17059180. 11/32 in
17059184 . 11/32 in
Pump adjustment
M2MC
17059134. T in
17059136 .
i in
M2ME
17059180. x in (inner hole)
17059184. £ in (inner hole)
17059190. £ in (inner hole)
17059193 . £ in (inner hole)
17059194. £ in (inner hole)
17059196 . in (inner hole)
17059191 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059491 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059492 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059498 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
Choke coil lever adjustment. 0.120 in
Fast idle cam - angle gauge method
M2MC
17059134. 38°
17059136 . 38°
M2ME
17059193 . 24.5°
17059194. 24.5°
17059190. 24.5°
17059191 . 24.5°
17059491 . 24.5°
17059492 . 24.5°
17059196 . 24.5°
17059498 . 24.5°
17059180. 24.5°
17059184. 24.5°
Front vacuum adjustment - angle gauge method
M2MC
17059134 . 27°
17059136. 27°
M2ME
17059193 . 19°
17059194. 19°
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 131

17059191 . 19°
17059180 . 19°
17059190. 19°
17059184. 19°
17059491 . 23°
17059492 . 23°
17059196. 23°
17059498 . 23°
Rear vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
M2ME
17059193 . 17°
17059194. 17°
17059191 . 17°
17059180. 17°
17059190. 17°
17059184. 17°
17059491 . 21°
17059492 . 21°
17059196. 21°
17059498 . 21°
Automatic choke adjustment
M2MC
17059134 .. 1 notch lean (CW)
17059136 . 1 notch lean (CW)
M2ME
17059491 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059492 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059196. 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059193 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059194. 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059498 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059191 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059180. 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059190. 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059184. 2 notches rich (CCW)
Unloader adjustment - angle gauge method
M2MC
17059134. 38°
17059136 . 38°
M2ME
17059193. 35°
17059194...... 35°
17059184. 35°
17059180. 38°
17059190. 38°
17059191 . 38°
17059491 . 42°
17059492 . 42°
17059498 . 42°
17059196 . 42°
A/C idle speed adjustment. refer to specifications decal

Fast idle adjustment. refer to specifications decal

M4ME - M4MC carburetors
Float level
M4ME
17059240. 7/32 in
17059243 . 7/32 in
17059540. 7/32 in
17059543 . 7/32 in
17059242 . 7/32 in
M4MC
17059553 . 13/32 in
17059555. 13/32 in
17059250. 13/32 in
17059253 . 13/32 in
10759272 . 1 5/32 in
10759208 . 1 5/32 in
10759209 . 1 5/32 in
10759210. 1 5/32 in
10759211 . 15/32 in
10759228. 1 5/32 in
10759241 . 5/16 in
10759247 . 5/16 in
Pump adjustment
M4ME
17059240. 9/32 in (inner hole)
132 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

1 7059243 . 9/32 in (inner hole)

17059540. 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059543 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059242 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
M4MC
17059553 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059555 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059250. 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059253 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059208 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059209 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059210. 9/32 in (inner hole)
1705921 1 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059228 . 9/32 in (inner hole)
17059241 .. f- in (outer hole)
17059247 . f in (outer hole)
17059272 . f- in (outer hole)
Choke coil adjustment. 0.120 in
Fast idle cam relation adjustment - angle gauge method
M4ME
17059240. 14.5°
17059243 . 14.5°
17059540. 14.5°
17059543 . 14.5°
17059242 . 14.5°
M4MC
17059272 . 14.5°
17059241 . 18°
17059247 . 18°
17059250. 18°
17059253 . 18°
17059553 . 19°
17059555 . 19°
17059210. 38°
1705921 1 . 38°
17059228 . 38°
17059208 . 46°
17059209 . 46°
Air valve rod adjustment - plug gauge method
M4ME - M4MC
17059250. 0.030 in
17059253 . 0.030 in
17059210. 0.030 in
17059211 . 0.030 in
17059228 . 0.030 in
17059272 . 0.030 in
All others. 0.01 5 in
Front vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
M4ME
17059242 . 13°
17059240. 21°
17059243 . 21°
17059540. 21°
17059543 . 21°
M4MC
17059247 . 20°
17059241 . 21.5°
17059250. 23°
17059253 . 23°
17059553 . 24°
17059272 . 24°
17059555 . 26°
17059210. 27°
1705921 1 . 27°
17059228 . 27°
Rear vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
M4ME
17059242 ..■. 13°
17059240. 21°
17059243 . 21°
17059540. 23°
17059543 . 23°
M4MC
17059247 . 19°
17059241 .. 20.5°
17059208 . 23°
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 133

17059209 . 23°
17059210. 23°
17059211 . 23°
17059228 . 23°
17059553 . 36.5°
17059555 . 36.5°
17059250. 36.5°
17059253 . 36.5°
Automatic choke coil adjustment
M4ME
17959242 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059240. 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059243 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059540. 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059543 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059553 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059555 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059250. 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059253 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
17059228 . 1 notch lean (CW)
17059208 . 1 notch lean (CW)
17059209 . 1 notch lean (CW)
17059210 . 1 notch lean (CW)
17059211 . 2 notches lean (CW)
17059241 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059247 . 1 notch rich (CCW)
17059272 . 2 notches rich (CCW)
Unloader adjustment - angle gauge method
M4ME
17059240. 30°
17059243 . 30°
17059242 . 30°
17059540. 38°
17059543 . 38°
M4MC
17059553 . 35°
17059555 . 35°
17059250. 35°
17059253 . 35°
17059272 . 35°
17059210. 38°
1705921 1 . 38°
17059228 . 38°
17059241 . 38°
17059247 . 38°
42°
17059208 .
17059209 . 42°
Secondary lockout adjustment. 0.015 in
Secondary closing adjustment. 0.020 in

E2ME - E2MC carburetors

Float level
17059496 . re in
Pump adjustment
17059496 .
Choke coil adjustment - plug gauge method
0.120 in
17059496 .
Fast idle cam - angle gauge method
24.5°
17059496 .
Front vacuum break adjustment — angle gauge method
17059496 .
21°
Rear vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method 30°
2 notches rich (CCW)
Automatic choke coil adjustment.
38°
Unloader adjustment - angle gauge method.
Air valve spring
M4ME
| turn
17059240.
f turn
17059243 .
f turn
17059540.
f- turn
17059543 .
f turn
17059242 .
M4MC
turn
17059553 .
\ turn
17059555 .
•J- turn
17059250 .
± turn
17059253 .
i turn
17059208 .
134 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

17059209 . £ turn
17059210. 1 turn
1705921 1 . 1 turn
17059228 . 1 turn
17059241 . | turn
17059247 . £ turn
17059272 . f turn

1980
E2ME - E2MC carburetors
Choke coil lever adjustment - plug gauge method 0.120 in
Float level
E2ME
17080496 . 5
iB in
17080498. 5
in
16
17080490. 5
in
16
17080492 . 5
in
16
17080491 .
4 in
E2MC
17080160.
4 in
17080191 . 11/32
17080190. 9/32 in
17080195 ... 9/32 in
17080197 . 9/32 in
17080192 . 9/32 in
Pump rod adjustment
E2ME
17080496.
17080498 .
17080490.
17080492 .
17080491 .
E2MC
17080160.
£ ^
17080191 .
£ in
17080190.
£ in
17080195 .
£ in
17080197 .
£ in
17080192 .
£ in
Choke rod cam adjustment - angle gauge method
E2ME
17080496. 24.5°
17080498 . 24.5°
17080490. 24.5°
17080492 . 24.5°
17080491 . 24.5°
E2MC
17080190. 24.5°
17080191 . 24.5°
17080195 . 24.5°
17080197 . 24.5°
17080192 . 24.5°
17080160. 14.5°
Vacuum break adjustment
E2 M E
17080496. 38°
17080498. 38°
17080490. 38°
17080492 . 38°
17080491 . 35°
E2MC
17080190. 20°
17080191 . 18°
17080195 . 14°
17080197 . 14°
17080192 . 20°
17080160. 33.5°
Unloader adjustment - angle gauge method
E2ME. 38°
E2MC. 38°
17080160. 37.5°
all others. 38°
Choke setting. tamper proof

E4ME - E4MC carburetors

Float level
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 135

E4ME
3
17080540. 8
in
3
17080542. 8 in
3
17080543 . 8 in
17080502 . 1 in
T
1
17080504 . 1 in
17080553 . 15/32 in
17080554 . 15/32 in
others. N/A
E4MC
7
17080241 . 16 in
7
17080249. 16 in
5
17080244 . 16 in
17080242 . 13/32 in
17080240. re in

17080243 . re in

17080271 . 1 5/32 in
17080270. 1 5/32 in
17080272 . 1 5/32 in
Pump rod location
E4ME
17080540. tamper resistant
17080542 . tamper resistant
17080543 . tamper resistant
17080502 . tamper resistant
17080504 . tamper resistant
E4MC
17080241 . inner
17080249 . inner
17080244. inner
17080242 . inner
17080240. inner
17080243 . inner
17080253 . inner
17080259. inner
17080270. outer
17080271 . outer
17080272 . outer

Pump rod setting

E4MC
17080241 . 9/32 in
17080249 . 9/32 in
17080244. 9/32 in
17080242 . 9/32 in
17080240. 9/32 in
17080243 . 9/32 in
17080253 . 9/32 in
17080259 . 9/32 in
17080270 . f in
17080271 . i in
17080272 . 1 in
E4ME
17080253. 9/32 in
17080254. 9/32 in
tamper resistant
others.
0.025 in
Air valve rod.
Choke rod cam adjustment - angle gauge method
E4ME
14.5°
17080540.
14.5°
17080542.
14.5°
17080543 .
17°
17080553 .
17°
17080554 .
E4MC
18°
17080241 .
18°
17080249.
24.5°
17080244 .
14.5°
17080242 . 14.5°
17080240. 14.5°
17080272 .
14.5°
17080243 . 14.5°
17080270. 17°
17080253 . 17°
17080259 . 20°
17080271 .
 136 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Front vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method

E4MC
17080241 . 23°
17080249. 23°
17080272 . 23°
17080244. 18°
17080242 . 15°
17080240. 16°
17080243 . 16°
17080593 . 19°
17080540. 19°
17080542 . 19°
17080253 . 26°
17080259 . 26°
17080270. 26°
17080273 . 23°
E4ME
17080540. 19°
17080542. 19°
17080543 . 19°
17080502. 24°
17080504. 24°
17080553 . 25°
17080554 . 25°
Rear vacuum break adjustment - angle gauge method
E4MC
17080241 . 20.5°
17080249. 20.5°
17080244. 14°
17080242 . 18°
17080240. 16°
17080243. 16°
17080253. 34°
17080259 . 34°
17080270. 34°
17080271 . 34°
17080272. 29.5°
E4ME
17080540. 23°
17080542 . [. 13°
17080543 .. 23°
17080502 . 30°
17080504 .. 30°
17080553 . 35°
17080554.1'Z'Zl’' 34°
Air valve windup
E4ME
17080540.
w turn
17080542.
m turn
17080543 . I turn
17080502. turn
17080504. j turn
17080553 . y turn
17080554 . y turn
E4MC
17080241 . i turn
17080249. | turn
17080244 . f- turn
17080242.
w turn
17080240.
m turn
17080243.
tl turn
17080253. y turn
17080259. y turn
17080270. f turn
17080271 . f turn
17080272 . f turn

1 General description sophisticated do the carburetor and the emission control system
K become.

The fuel system of all models comprises a rear fuel tank, a

mechanically operated fuel pump, a carburetor and an air cleaner. 2 Air cleaner - servicing
The carburetor may be of dual or four barrel type depending upon
the engine capacity and the date of production of the vehicle.
Non-temperature-controlled type (paper element)
All models are equipped with some form of emission control
1 At the intervals specified in Chapter 1, unscrew the wing nut on
equipment. The later the date of the vehicle, the more complex and
top of the air cleaner cover and remove the cover.
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 137

2 Remove the cleaner element and discard it, then wipe clean the
interior of the casing, insert a new element and install the cover.

Temperature-controlled (thermostatic) air cleaner (TAC)

3 If a plain paper air cleaner element is used, replace it as described
in paragraphs 1 and 2 of this Section.
4 If a Polywrap element is used, remove the Polywrap band from the
paper element and discard the element. If the band is in good
undamaged condition, rinse it clean in kerosene and squeeze it dry. Dip
the band in clean engine oil and gently squeeze out the excess. Install
the band to a new paper element and reassemble.
5 Any malfunction in the temperature-controlled air cleaner should
first be checked out by starting the engine (cold) and observing the
position of the deflector flap valve, using a mirror to look up the intake
nozzle of the cleaner. This should be closed to cold air but open to
warm air. Conversely, once the engine has warmed up, the flap should
be open to cold and closed to warm. Both tests are carried out with the
engine idling.
6 The vacuum unit can be removed from the air cleaner by drilling
out the two spotwelds to remove the retaining strap. The new vacuum
unit repair pack will contain the necessary sheet metal screws to hold
the retaining strap in position when reassembling.
7 The sensor can be removed by prying up the tabs on the sensor
retaining clip.

3 Fuel pump - description and testing

1 The fuel pump is a sealed type and is actuated from the engine
camshaft. A pushrod is used between the camshaft and the pump
rocker. Fuel pumps on 231 V6 engines are driven directly from the
camshaft eccentric without pushrod.
2 No servicing can be carried out as the unit is sealed-, but if the Fig. 4.1 Chevrolet engine fuel pump location (on Oldsmobile
pump is suspected of being faulty, carry out the following test. engines the pump is attached to the right side of the timing chain
3 Verify that gas is in the fuel tank. Disconnect the primary wire cover; on Buick and Pontiac engines it is on the left side)
which runs between the coil and the distributor to prevent the engine
firing when the starter motor is actuated. (1974 models only). For
1975 through 1 980 models, disconnect the distributor wiring marked
BAT.
4 Disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the carburetor and place its
open end in a container.
5 Operate the starter motor and check that well-defined spurts of
fuel are being ejected from the open end of the pipe. If so, the pump
is operating correctly; if not, replace the pump as described in the
following section. __

4 Fuel pump - removal and installation

1 To remove the pump, remove the fuel inlet and outlet pipes. Use
two wrenches to prevent damage to the pump and connections
(photo).
2 Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts, the pump, and the gasket
(photo). , , ,.
3 If the pushrod is to be removed (Chevrolet engines only), first
remove the pipe plug or the pump adapter and gasket, as appropriate
(photo). ,
4 When installing, first install the pushrod using the gasket sealant
on the pipe plug or gasket (where applicable). Retain the pushrod in
position using heavy grease (photo).
5 Install the pump using a new gasket. On Oldsmobile, Pontiac and
Buick engines, insert the fuel pump into position and ensure that its
rocker arm contacts the camshaft (photo). Use gasket sealant on t e
screw threads (photos). Fig. 4.2 Fuel tank installation - typical (Sec 6)
7 Connect the fuel pipes, start the engine and check for leaks.

Disconnect the fuel gauge wiring to the top of the tank. On early
5 Fuel filter - replacement
odels, the wire should be disconnected from inside the trunk and
en fed through the trunk floorpan with the rubber grommet pushed
1 See Chapter 1 for the step-by-step procedure.
Jt of place.
Raise the vehicle for access underneath the car.
6 Fuel tank — removal and installation Drain all fuel from the tank into a clean container. Since there are
a drain on some models, it is necessary to siphon the fuel through the
1 The fuel tank located between the frame rails and behind the rear ler neck, or drain the fuel through the fuel feed line running to the
axle is held in place by two steel straps. These straps are hinge at arburetor Do not start the siphoning process with your mouth as
either the front or the rear end (with a bolt through the hinge) anr arious personal injury could result. Also make sure that no open
secured at the opposite end with a bolt and nut assembly. ames, lighted cigarettes or sparks are in the area as they could ignite
2 Disconnect the battery before performing any servicing operations
le fuel vapor.
involving the fuel supply.
 138 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4.1 Removing fuel lines 4.2 Removing mounting bolts

4.3 Removing fuel pump pushrod (Chevrolet engines)

4.4 Use heavy grease to retain pushrod during reassembly (Chevrolet
engines)

6 Disconnect the fuel hose and/or vapor return hose at the top of the
tank.
7 Remove the gauge ground wire attached to the underbody.
8 Disconnect the filler neck at the tank.
9 Support the bottom of the tank using an adjustable jack and a
piece of wood to spread the load.
1 0 Remove the tank strap bolts and carefully lower the tank checking
that all connections are free of the tank as it is lowered. Read the
following section for important repair and storage information.
1 1 Installation is a reversal of the removal process. Make sure all
electrical connections are clean and properly installed and all hoses are
tightened securely to the tank.

7 Fuel tank - repairs and storage

1 Any repairs to the fuel tank or filler neck should be carried out by
a professional who has experience in this critical and potentially
dangerous work. Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel system,
explosive fumes can remain and ignite during the repairing of the tank.
2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle, it should not be placed
in any area where sparks, or open flames could ignite the fumes
coming out of the tank. Be especially careful inside garages where a
water heater is located as the pilot light of the heater could cause an 4.5 On Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines, make sure the rocker
explosion. arm (arrow) contacts the drive eccentric properly (Pontiac engine
shown)
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 139

3 Depending upon engine capacity, the carburetor may be of dual or

8 Carburetors - description four-barrel downdraft type.
4 Overhaul of a worn carburetor is not difficult, but always obtain a
1 Reference should be made to the Specifications Section of this repair kit in advance, which will contain all the necessary gaskets and
Chapter for the general application of the different types of carburetors replaceable items.
installed during the production run of vehicles covered by this manual. 5 If a carburetor has seen considerable use, and is obviously well
It is emphasized that the information given is not intended to identify worn, it will probably be more economical to replace it with a new, or
a particular carburetor with a specific vehicle, and the actual factory reconditioned unit.
carburetor fitted to your engine should be checked out by recording
the number stamped on the unit, and checking it with your partsman. Rochester 2G series carburetor
It is very important not to use an incorrect unit, nor to modify the jets 6 This carburetor is a dual barrel, side bowl design.
or internal components by substituting parts with different manufac¬ 7 Units fitted to manual and automatic transmission vehicles are
turer's part numbers from those originally used. similar but vary in calibration.
2 All units have automatic chokes, either stove (hot air) heated from 8 The main metering jets are of a fixed type, calibration being
the manifold, or electrically heated. accomplished through a system of air bleeds.
9 A power enrichment valve assembly is incorporated by which
power mixtures are controlled by air velocity past the boost venturi
according to engine demands.
10 On later model vehicles, an electrically-operated throttle closing
solenoid (controlled through the ignition switch) is used to ensure that
the throttle valve closes fully after the ignition is switched off, to
prevent running-on (dieseling).
1 1 The choke is automatic and is operated by an exhaust manifold
heated coil.

Rochester 4MV (Quadrajet) series carburetor

12 This is a downdraft two stage unit. The primary side uses a triple
venturi system. The secondary side has two large bores and one
metering system which supplements the primary main metering
system and receives fuel from a common float chamber.
Rochester M4MC (Quadrajet) series carburetor
13 This is also downdraft two stage unit and is very similar to the 4
MV unit.

Rochester E2 - E4 series
The E2ME, E4ME and E4MC 2 and 4 barrel carburetors are designed
for use with the C-4 (Computer Controlled Catalytic System). The 2-
barrel has a triple venturi stackup while the 4-barrel has a TPS
(Throttle Position Sensor) designed to assure precise and economical
fuel metering.
Rochester M2ME - M2MC Series
The M2 series carburetors are 2-barrel, single stage affairs of
downdraft design for use with V8 and turbocharged V6 motors. Its
primary side is of the M4MC design.

9 Carburetors - removal and installation

1 Remove the air cleaner.

2 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from the carburetor.
3 Disconnect the choke rod or electrical wire (M4ME and M2ME
carburetors).
4 Disconnect the accelerator linkage.
5 Disconnect the throttle valve linkage or downshift cable (auto¬
matic transmission).
6 Remove all hoses and electrical connections, making very careful
note of where they were removed from. Tags or coded pieces of tape
will help.
7 Remove the carburetor attaching nuts and/or bolts.
8 Lift away the carburetor.
9 Remove the gasket and/or insulator.
10 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but the
following points should be noted:

a) By filling the carburetor bowl with fuel, the initial start-up will
be easier and less drain on the battery will occur.
b) New gaskets should be used.
c) Idle speed and mixture settings should be checked, and
adjusted if necessary.

10 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - idle adjustment

Fig. 4.3 Mechanical type automatic choke - typical (Sec 8) 1 Idle speed adjustment must be carried out after the engine has
fully warmed up. The air cleaner must be fitted, except where
140 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

CHOKE KICK LEVER FUEL INLET NUT

CHOKE LEVER

CHOKE VACUUM BREAK

PUMP LEVER

PUMP ROD

C .E.C. SOLENOID
(VALVE)

DISTRIBUTOR
VACUUM TUBE
IDLE SPEED

SCREW
THERMAC TUBE

IDLE MIXTURE LIMITER CAP AND NEEDLE

THROTTLE LEVER

SPECIFIED GAUGE
Fig. 4.4 Rochester 2GV carburetor (Sec 10)
BETWEEN UPPER EDGE
otherwise specified, and it is essential that the ignition timing and
OF CHOKE VALVE AND
AIR HORN CASTING — dwell angle are correctly set. All emission control systems must also
be functioning correctly. In order to check engine speed, an external
BEND TANG tachometer must be connected, following the manufacturer's instruc¬
ADJUST tions. Note: If the information given on the decal label has superseded
the information given in Specifications, the decal label should be
assumed to be correct.

1974 models
2 Disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum pipe.
3 Disconnect the 'Fuel Tank' line from the vapor canister.
4 With air conditioning off, adjust the idle stop solenoid screw to
obtain 900 rpm (manual in Neutral) or 600 rpm (automatic in Drive).
5 Now de-energize the idle stop solenoid and with the idle cam
FAST IDLE
screw on the low step of the cam, adjust the cam screw to obtain 400
SCREW ON
SECOND STEP
rpm (automatic transmission in Drive) or 500 rpm (manual trans¬
/ OF CAM
mission in Neutral).
AGAINST 6 Reconnect the vacuum and fuel tank lines.
HIGH STEP
Idle mixture adjustment
1 The idle mixture screws are fitted with limiter caps as already
Fig. 4.5 Choke rod adjustment diagram - 2GV (Sec 11) described and any minor adjustment should be restricted to turning the
screws within the extent of their travel (| to f turn clockwise). Turning
the screws in leans the mixture.
8 If after overhaul or replacement of carburetor internal compo¬
nents, it is essential to adjust the mixture screws, carry out the
following operations:
9 Disconnect the fuel tank vent hose from the vapor canister.
10 Disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum line.
1 1 Switch off the air conditioning (if fitted).
12 Set transmission in Neutral (manual) or Drive (automatic).
13 Using a pair of pliers break off the tabs on the mixture screw
limiter cap.
1 4 Refer to Specifications and set the engine idle speed to the initial
idle speed (lean drop method) given in Specifications Section.
15 Now turn out the mixture screws equally until maximum idle
speed is achieved. Readjust the initial speed to that given in the
Specifications.
1 6 Now turn both mixture screws in equally until the final idle speed
is obtained as given in the Specifications Section.
17 Reconnect the hoses and fit new limiter caps with the cap stops
at the fully rich (backed out) position.
Fig. 4.6 Vacuum break adjustment diagram - 2GV (Sec 12) 18 An alternative method of setting the idle mixture adjustment is to
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 141

connect a CO meter (exhaust gas analyzer) in accordance with the

maker's instructions and then turn the mixture screws in or out until
the CO level is within the maximum shown in the Specifications
Section, consistent with smooth idling.

11 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke rod adjustment

Note: The following adjustment will normally only be required after

overhaul or repair of the carburetor.
1 Turn the idle stop screw in until it just touches the bottom step of
the fast idle cam, then screw it in exactly one full turn.
2 Position the idle screw so that it is on the second stop of the fast
idle cam against the shoulder of the high step.
3 Hold the choke valve plate towards the closed position (using a
rubber band to keep it in place) and check the gap between the upper
edge of the choke valve plate and the inside wall of the air horn.
4 Adjust to the specified gap, if necessary, by bending the tang on
the upper choke lever. The setting should provide the specified fast idle
speeds.
Fig. 4.7 Choke unloader adjustment diagram - 2GV (Sec 13)

12 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke vacuum break adjust¬

ment TOP OF ROD EVEN

1 Remove the air cleaner and plug the air cleaner sensor vacuum
take-off port in the carburetor.
2 Using an external suction source, apply suction to the vacuum
break diaphragm until the plunger is fully seated.
3 With the diaphragm fully seated, push the choke valve towards the
closed position and place a gauge of the specified thickness between
the air horn and the choke blade.
4 Bend the vacuum break rod if necessary to obtain the specified
dimension (see Specifications Section).

13 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) — choke unloader adjustment

1 Hold the throttle valve plates in the fully open position.

2 Hold the choke valve plate towards the closed position using a
rubber band to keep it in place.
3 Check the gap between the upper edge of the choke valve plate
and the inside wall of the air horn.
4 Bend the tang on the throttle lever to adjust the gap to the
specified value,if necessary, as given in Specifications Section.

14 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - choke coil rod adjustment

1 Hold the choke valve plate fully open.

2 Disconnect the thermostatic coil rod from the upper lever and
push down on the rod as far as it will go. The top of the rod should be
level with the bottom of the hole in the choke lever.
3 Adjust if necessary by bending the rod.

15 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - accelerator pump adjustment

Fig. 4.8 Choke coil rod adjustment - 2GV (Sec 14)

s 1 Unscrew the idle speed screw.
2 Close both throttle valve plates completely and measure from the
top surface of the air horn ring to the top of the pump rod.
and the vacuum break link from the diaphragm plunger. The
3 Bend the rod to obtain the specified dimension.
diaphragm plunger stem spring need not be removed.
4 Disconnect the vacuum break hose from the tube then remove the
! ____ diaphragm from the air horn by unscrewing two retaining screws.
16 Carburetor (Rochester 2GV) - overhaul 5 Remove the fuel inlet filter nut, filter, spring and two gaskets.
6 Remove the pump rod from the throttle lever after removing the
1 When a carburetor develops faults after a considerable mileage, it retaining clip. Rotate the upper pump lever counter-clockwise, then
is usually more economical to replace the complete unit, rather than to remove the pump rod from the lever by aligning the rod pip' with the
completely dismantle it and replace individual components. Where,
lever notch.
however, it is decided to strip and rebuild the unit, first obtain a repair 7 Remove the fast idle cam retaining screw, rotate the cam and
kit which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other needed
remove it from the rod.
items, and proceed in the following sequence. 8 Hold the choke open, rotate the upper end of the choke rod
2 Bend back the lockwasher tabs then remove the idle stop solenoid towards the pump lever and remove the rod from the upper choke
(where applicable) from the carburetor. ... <, lever.
3 Remove the choke lever from the vacuum break diaphragm in
142

Fig. 4.10 Exploded view of 2GV carburetor bowl and throttle body (Sec 16)
7 Cluster assembly 7 Bowl assembly 11 Accelerator pump spring
2 Gasket 8 Throttle body to bowl 12 Fast idle cam
3 Splash shield (main well) gasket 13 Idle mixture screws
4 Power valve assembly 9 Throttle body assembly 14 Choke rod
5 Main jets 10 Pump discharge check
6 Air horn gasket
V assembly
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 143

9 Remove the air horn from the float bowl (8 screws). check ball.
j| 10 Remove the float hinge pin, float, splash shield and float needle. 22 Remove the throttle body to bowl attaching screws. Remove the
Ij 11 Unscrew the float needle seat and remove the gasket. body and gasket.
12 Remove the air horn to float bowl gasket. 23 Further dismantling is not recommended. If it is essential to
13 Depress the power piston shaft, and allow the spring to snap remove the idle mixture'needles, pry out the plastic limiter caps, then
sharply and eject the piston from the casting. count the number of turns to bottom the needles and fit replacements

I
14 Remove the inner pump lever retaining screw then remove the in exactly the same position. New limiter caps should be fitted after
outer pump lever and plastic washer from the air horn. Place the running adjustments have been made.
plunger in gasoline to prevent the rubber from drying out. 24 Clean all metal parts in a suitable cold solvent. Do not immerse
I 5 Rotate the pump plunger stem out of the hole in the inner lever if rubber parts, plastic parts, the vacuum break assembly, or the idle stop
it is required to remove it. Do not bend the tang on the inner lever. solenoid, or permanent damage will result. Do not probe the jets, but
1 6 If the choke shaft or the valve need replacement, remove the two blow them through with clean, dry compressed air. Examine all fixed
staked screws, remove the valve, then remove the shaft and lever from and moving parts for cracks, distortion, wear and other damage;
I the air horn. replace as necessary. Discard all gaskets and fuel inlet filter.
17 Remove the pump plunger return spring from the pump well, 25 Assembly is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but
followed by the inlet check ball (where applicable). the following points should be noted:
18 Remove the pump inlet screen from the bottom of the float bowl
(where applicable). a) If new idle mixture screws are used, and the original setting
19 Unscrew the main jets, power valve and gaskets. was not noted, install the screws finger-tight to seat them,
20 Remove the cluster and gasket (3 screws and washers). Note the then back-off 4 full turns.
| fiber washer on the center screw. b) When installing the choke valve on the seat, the letters 'RP'
21 Remove the pump discharge spring retainer, the spring and the face upward. Ensure that there is 0.020 inch clearance

BEND HERE TO ADJUST

GAUGE FROM
TOE OF FLOAT
AT SHARP EDGE
OF SEAM TO AIR
GAUGE FROM
HORN GASKET
GASKET SURFACE
TO BOTTOM
OF FLOAT

B Float drop
A Float level

Fig. 4.11 Float adjustment diagram (2GV) — brass float (Sec 16)

BEND HERE
MEASURE FROM LIP TO ADJUST
AT TOE OF FLOAT TO
AIR HORN GASKET
measure specified distance
FROM GASKET SURFACE TO
NOTCH AT TOE OF FLOAT

BEND FLOAT TANG 10 ADJUST

FOP PROPER SETTING

B
B Float drop
A Float level

Fig. 4.12 Float adjustment diagram (2GV) - plastic float (Sec 16)
144

© PREPARE VEHICLE FOR ADJUSTMENTS - SEE

EMISSION LABEL ON VEHICLE. NOTE IGNITION
TIMING SET PER LABEL.

5 3 4
Fig. 4.13 Air horn tightening sequence (Sec 16) Fig. 4.1 5 Idle adjustment diagram for 2GC carburetor without
solenoid (Sec 17)

CLEAN AIR TUBE

CHOKE CLOSING
ASSIST. SPRING

CHOKE
BREAK DIAPHRAGM FULL
SPARK PORT

GAS
RECIRCULATION
THERMOSTATIC VACUUM PORT
COIL

Fig. 4.14 Rochester 2GC carburetor (Sec 17)

(7) OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW

SOLENOID PLUNGER TO FULLY EXTEND TURN IDLE SPEED SCREW TO
®*END ROD HERE TO
SET CURB IDLE SPEED TO
ADJUST (8EE INSET)
SPECIFICATIONS - A/C OFF
(SEE EMISSION LABEL)

SOLENOID ENERGIZED —
A1C COMPRESSOR LEAD
DISCONNECTED AT A/C
COMPRESSOR, A/C ON,
A.T, TRANSMISSION
IN DRIVE. M.T
TRANSMISSION \T EDGE OF COIL
IN NEUTRAL LEVER MUST LINE
UP WITH EDGE OF
120 PLUG GAUGE
ELECTRICAL ® IN HOLE INSIDE
CONNECTION Q PREPARE VEHICLE CLOSE CHOKE VALVE
CHOKE HOUSING
FOR ADJUSTMENTS — BY PUSHING UP ON LEVER
©TURN SOLENOID SCREW TO SEE EMISSION LABEL
ADJUST TO SPECIFIED RPM. ON VEHICLE.
© '
REMOVE THERMOSTATIC
(RECONNECT A7C COMPRESSOR NOTE: IGNITION
COVER. COIL ASSEMBLY ,-N„, _ „ --
LEAD AFTER ADJUSTMENT) TIMING SET PER LABEL
AND INSIDE BAFFLE PLATE®PLACE L0W IDLE SPEE0 SCREW
ON HIGHEST STEP OF FAST IDLE
CAM

Fig. 4.16 Idle speed adjustment diagram for 2GC carburetor with Fig. 4.17 Choke coil lever adjustment diagram - 2GC carburetor
solenoid (Sec 17) (Sec 19)
 'GAUGE BETWEEN UPPER
EDGE OF CHOKE VALVE
AND WALL OF AIR HORN

HOLD THROTTLE
VALVE WIDE OPEN

Fig. 4.18 Fast idle cam adjustment diagram -2GC carburetor Fig. 4.19 Choke unloader adjustment diagram - 2GC carburetor
(Sec 20) (Sec 21)

( 3JSTEM
C*) GAUGE BETWEEN UPPER (3) WITH CHOKE VALVE WIDE OPEN (ENGINE COLD)
^“'EDGE OF CHOKE VALVE W ROTATE COVER AGAINST COIL TENSION UNTIL CHOKE
V'“^PULLED OUT VALVE CLOSES SET MARK ON COVER TO SPECIFIED
AND WALL OF AIR HORN
UNTIL SEATED POINT ON CHOKE HOUSING NOTE ON MODELS WITH
SLOTTED COIL PICK UP LEVER, MAKE SURE COIL TANG
PLACE IDLE SPEED SCREW
IS INSTALLED IN SLOT IN LEVER (SEE INSET)
ON HIGHEST STEP OF FAST
IDLE CAM

VACUUM
DIAPHRAGM
SEATED © BEND ROD
1
TO ADJUST

NOTE: PLUG END COVER

WITH A PIECE OF MASKING O
TAPE MAKING SURE TO
COVER PURGE BLEED HOLE
REMOVE TAPE AFTER USE OUTSIDE VACUUM SOURCE
ADJUSTMENT.

Fig. 4.20 Choke vacuum break adjustment diagram - 2GC Fig. 4.21 Automatic choke coil adjustment diagram - 2GC
carburetor (Sec 22) carburetor (Sec 23)

VACUUM BREAK

VACUUM BREAK
jLEVERMflH

INTERMEDIATE
CHOKE ROD^j

Fid 4 23 Removing intermediate choke rod -2GC carburetor

Fig. 4.22 Removing vacuum break lever -2GC carburetor (bec/JI u- (Sec 24)
 146 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

between the choke kick lever on the air horn before tightening
the choke valve screws.
19 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) — choke coil lever adjust¬
c) Brass float: With the air horn inverted and the air horn gasket
ment
installed, measure the distance from the gasket to the edge of
the float seam at the outer edge of the float pontoon. Adjust
1 Remove three screws and retainers and remove the thermostatic
the float level to the specified dimension by bending the float
coil cover, gasket and inside baffle plate assembly.
arm. With the air horn assembly upright and float freely
2 Place the idle speed screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam.
suspended, measure from the gasket to the bottom of the
float pontoon. Adjust the float drop to the specified dimension 3 Close the choke valve by pushing up on the intermediate choke
lever.
by bending the tang adjacent to the float needle.
4 The edge of the coil lever inside the choke housing must align with
d) Plastic float: Refer to the procedure for the brass float, but
the edge of the gauge.
note that for float level and float drop, the dimension is taken
5 If necessary, bend the choke rod to adjust.
from the Up at the toe of the float in both instances.
e) Install and tighten the air horn screws evenly in the order
shown.
f) After reassembly, carry out all the settings and adjustments 20 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) — fast idle cam adjustment
listed previously in this Chapter.
1 Place the idle speed screw on the second step of the cam, against
the high step.
17 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) — idle adjustment
2 Check the dimension between the upper edge of the choke valve
and the air horn wall.
Note: If the information given on the decal label has superseded the
3 If adjustment is necessary to obtain the specified dimension, bend
information given in the Specifications, the decal label should be the choke lever tang.
assumed to be correct.

Idle speed - 1975 models

1 Have the engine at normal operating temperature with the ignition 21 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) — choke unloader adjust¬
settings correct. ment
2 Disconnect the fuel tank hose from the vapor canister.
3 Connect a tachometer to the engine and switch the air condition¬ 1 Hold the throttle valve open with the fingers.
ing off. 2 Using a suitable gauge, check that the clearance between the
4 Turn the idle speed screw until the engine is running at the speeds edge of the choke valve plate and the air horn wall is as specified (see
specified in Specifications Section with manual transmission in Specifications Section).
Neutral and automatic transmission in Drive. 3 If necessary, bend the tang to adjust.

Idle mixture -1975 models

5 The mixture screws are fitted with limiter caps which restrict their 22 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - vacuum break adjustment
movement between -j- and f- turn lean. Any adjustment should be kept
to this but where the carburetor has been overhauled or new 1 Using a separate source of suction, such as the mouth or a small
components fitted then the caps should be broken off and the hand pump, seat the vacuum break diaphragm.
following operations carried out. 2 Cover the vacuum break bleed hole with a piece of masking tape.
6 Have the engine at normal operating temperature with air condi¬ 3 Place the idle speed screw on the high step of the fast cam idle.
tioning off and a tachometer connected to the engine. 4 Hold the choke coil lever inside the choke housing towards the
7 Disconnect the fuel tank hose from the vapor canister. closed choke position.
8 Adjust the idle speed screw until the initial idle speed (see 5 Check the dimension between the upper edge of the choke valve
Specifications Section) is obtained. and the air horn wall. If adjustment is required to obtain the specified
9 Now unscrew the mixture screws equally until maximum idle dimension (see Specifications Section) bend the vacuum break rod.
speed is achieved. Readjust the idle speed screw again to obtain initial 6 Remove the masking tape on the vacuum unit bleed hole and
idle speed. reconnect the vacuum hose.
10 Screw in the mixture screws equally until final idle speed (lean
drop) is obtained.
23 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - automatic choke coil
Idle speed — 1976 and later models
adjustment
1 1 Have the engine at normal operating temperature with ignition
settings correct and emission control systems operating correctly.
1 Place the idle speed screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam.
12 Set the idle speed screw on the low step of the fast idle cam.
2 Loosen the choke coil cover retaining screws.
13 Turn the idle speed screw to set the curb (initial idle speed) to
3 Rotate the cover against the coil tension until the choke begins to
specification (see Specifications Section or vehicle decal).
close. Continue rotating until the index mark aligns with the specified
14 Where a solenoid is fitted to the carburetor, carry out the
point on the choke housing, which is between the center and ^ notch
operations described in paragraphs 11 and 13 and then with (i) the
lean.
solenoid energized, (ii) the lead disconnected from the air conditioner
4 Tighten the choke cover retaining screws.
compressor, (iii) the air conditioner on, open the throttle to allow the
solenoid plunger to extend fully. Turn the solenoid hexagonal headed
bolt until the idle speed is 700 rpm (manual) or 650 rpm (automatic).
Reconnect the compressor lead on completion. 24 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) - overhaul
15 2GC carburetors are fitted with a solenoid when the vehicle is
equipped with automatic transmission or air conditioning. Note: When a carburetor develops faults after a considerable mileage,
it is usually more economical to replace the complete unit rather than
to completely dismantle it and replace individual components. How¬
Idle mixture - 1976 and later models
ever, if it is decided to strip and rebuild the unit, first obtain a repair kit
16 Refer to paragraphs 5 to 10 of this Section.
which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other needed items,
and proceed in the following sequence. Steps 24 through 27 are not
applicable to the 2GE carburetor, as it has an electrically controlled
18 Carburetor (Rochester 2GC-2GE) — accelerator pump rod choke mechanism that cannot be serviced.
adjustment
1 If the carburetor is fitted with a solenoid (automatic transmission
or air conditioning) this should be removed before dismantling the
1 The procedure is as for 2GV carburetor (Section 1 5). carburetor. To do this, bend back the lockwasher tabs and unscrew the
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 147

large nut which holds the solenoid to the bracket. Avoid immersion of
the solenoid in cleaning solvent.
2 Remove the fuel inlet filter nut, gasket, filter and spring.
3 Disconnect the lower end of the pump rod from the throttle lever.
4 Remove the upper end of the pump rod from the pump lever.
5 Remove the vacuum break diaphragm hose.
6 Remove the vacuum break diaphragm assembly (2 screws) and
disconnect it from the lever on the end of the choke shaft.
7 Remove the vacuum break lever from the end of the choke shaft
(1 screw), then remove the intermediate choke rod from the vacuum

break lever on the coil housing.

8 Remove the fast idle cam retaining screw, then remove the cam
from the end of the choke rod. The upper end of the rod cannot be
removed until the air horn has been removed from the float bowl.
9 Remove the 8 air horn attaching screws and lockwashers, then lift
off the air horn.
10 Remove the float hinge pin and lift off the float. The float needle
and pull clip (where applicable) can now be removed from the float
arm.
11 Unscrew the float needle seat and remove the gasket.
12 Depress the power piston and release it to allow it to snap free.
13 Remove the pump plunger assembly and inner pump lever from
the shaft by loosening the set screws on the inner lever.
14 If the pump assembly is to be overhauled, break off the flattened
end of the pump plunger stem; the service pump uses a grooved pump
plunger stem and retaining clip. After removng the inner pump lever
and pump assembly, remove the outer lever and shaft assembly from
the air horn. Remove the plastic washer from the pump plunger shaft.
1 5 Remove the gasket from the air horn.
Fig. 4.24 Removing power piston - 2GC carburetor (Sec 24) 16 Remove the fuel inlet baffle (next to the needle seat).
1 7 Taking care not to bend the choke shaft, remove the choke valve.
The retaining screws may need to be suitably dressed to permit
removal.
1 8 Remove the choke valve shaft. Remove the fast idle cam rod and
lever from the shaft.
19 Remove the pump plunger return spring from the float bowl pump
well, then invert the bolt and remove the aluminium ball.
20 Remove the main metering jets, power valve and gasket from
inside the float bowl.
21 Remove the three screws which retain the venturi cluster; remove
the cluster and gasket.
22 Use needle-nosed pliers to remove the pump discharge spring
retainer, then remove the spring and check ball from the discharge
passage.
23 Remove the three large throttle body to bowl attaching screws
and lockwashers. Remove the throttle body and gasket.
24 Remove the thermostatic choke coil cover (3 screws and retainers)
and gasket from the choke housing. Do not remove the cap baffle from
beneath the coil cover.
25 Remove the choke housing baffle plate.
Fig. 4.25 Throttle body attaching screws - 2GC carburetor 26 From inside the choke housing, remove the 2 attaching screws;
(Sec 24) remove the housing and gasket.
27 Remove the screw from the end of the intermediate choke shaft,
then remove the choke lever from the shaft. Remove the inner choke
coil lever and shaft assembly from the choke housing, followed by the
rubber dust seal.
28 Further dismantling is not recommended, particularly with regard
to the throttle valves or shaft since it may be impossible to reassemble
the valves correctly in relation to the idle discharge orifices. If it is
essential to remove the idle mixture needles, break off the plastic
limiter caps then count the number of turns to bottom the needles and
fit replacements in exactly the same position. New limiter caps should
be fitted after running adjustments have been made.
29 Clean all metal parts in a suitable cold solvent. Do not immerse
rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragm assemblies or pump plungers, as
permanent damage will result. Do not probe the jets, but blow through
with clean, dry compressed air. Examine all fixed and moving parts for
cracks, distortion, wear and other damage; replace as necessary.
Discard all gaskets and the fuel inlet filter.
30 Assembly is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but
the following points should be noted:

a) If new idle mixture screws were used, and the original setting
PUMP RETURN
was not noted, install the screws finger-tight to seat them,
SPRING
then back off 4 full turns.
b) When installing the rubber dust sea! in the choke housing
Fig. 4.26 Removing pump return spring - 2GC carburetor (Sec 24)
148 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

cavity, the seal lip faces towards the carburetor after the
housing is installed. 25 Carburetor (M2M series) - idle adjustment
c) Before installing the choke cover coil and baffle plate as¬
sembly, carry out the choke coil lever adjustment (Section 1 Idle speed adjustment must be carried out after the engine has
19). fully warmed up. The air cleaner must be fitted, except where
d) When installing the choke coil and cover assembly, the end of otherwise specified, and it is essential that the ignition timing and
the coil must be below the plastic tang on the inner choke dwell angle are correctly set. All emission control systems must also
housing lever. At this stage carry out the automatic choke coil be functioning correctly. In order to check engine speed, an external
adjustment (Section 23). tachometer must be connected, following the manufacturer's instruc¬
e) When installing the venturi duster, ensure that a gasket is tions. Note: if the information given on the decal label has superseded
fitted on the center screw. the information given in Specifications, the decal label should be
f) Install the choke valve with the letters 'RP' or the part assumed to be correct.
number, facing upwards. 2 Disconnect the electrical lead from the idle speed solenoid (if so
g) Carry out float level and float drop checks as specified for the equipped).
2GV carburetor in Section 16 for plastic floats. 3 Adjust the base idle speed screw to the rpm specified on the
h) Install and tighten the air horn screws as shown for 2GV emission label. The shift selector on automatic transmissions should
carburetors. be in Drive, and manual transmissions should be in Neutral.
j) After reassembly, carry out the relevant settings and adjust¬ 4 The idle mixture screws have been preset at the factory and
ments listed previously in this Chapter. sealed. The only time the mixture screws will need adjusting is in the

VENTURI
CLUSTER

JETS

Fig. 4.27 Main metering jets and venturi cluster - 2GC carburetor
(Sec 24)

Fig. 4.28 Removing pump discharge retainer - 2GC carburetor

(Sec 24)

REAR VACUUM BREAK IDLE SPEED

GASKET

CHOKE COIL
AND COVER CHOKE HOUSING

NON¬ VAPOR VENT

ELEC CHOKE TUBE
BAFFLE PLATE (TO CANISTER)
¥ FRONT PLUG (IDLE MIXTURE
VACUUM BREAK NEEDLE)

Fig. 4.29 Choke housing assembly - 2GC carburetor (Sec 24) Fig. 4.30 Typical M2ME carburetor (Sec 25)

J
 149

IN DRIVE OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION

IN NEUTRAL).

Fig. 4.31 Idle adjustment diagram - M2ME (Sec 25)

(?) OPEN THROTTLE TO RELEASE FAST

©1 j WITH ENGINE OFF, PLACE
THROTTLE ON HIGH STEP
IDLE CAM AND SHUT OFF ENGINE.

OF FAST IDLE CAM. © UNPLUG AND RECONNECT VACUUM

HOSES TO EGR VALVE AND
DISTRIBUTOR.

DISCONNECT AND PLUG VACUUM

HOSE AT DISTRIBUTOR

(5) DISCONNECT AND PLUG

VACUUM HOSE AT EGR
VALVE ADJUST FAST IDLE SPEED SCREW TO
SPECIFIED R.P.M. ON EMISSION LABEL.
(<) START ENGINE IN "PARK" OR "NEUTRAL"
WITHOUT TOUCHING THROTTLE.

Fig. 4.32 Fast idle adjustment diagram - M2ME (Sec 26)

IOTE PERFORM CHOKE ADJUSTMENTS

EFORE INSTALLING CHOKE COVER

THERMOSTATIC
CHOKE COIL LEVER

) INSTALL GASKET AND CHOKE

COVER AND COIL ASSEMBLY
MAKE SURE COIL TANG
ENGAGES COIL PICK-UP
LEVER (SEE INSET)
INSET

START THREE SELF-TAPPING SCREWS

(NOTE: TIGHTEN SCREWS AFTER
COVER INSTALLATION)

(LOCATION A)

INSTALL RETAINER TAB IN NOTCH OF

CHOKE COVER
> TIGHTEN (3)
(D SET CAM FOLLOWER
RETAINING SCREWS
ON HIGHEST STEP OF CAM

Fig. 4.34 Choke cover installation - M2ME (Sec 27)

ig. 4.33 Air horn screw tightening diagram - M2ME (Sec 27)
 150 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

case of a major carburetor overhaul, throttle body replacement or in removing the retaining screw inside the housing.
the case of a high emissions reading by official inspections. Because 20 Remove the rear vacuum break rod from the intermediate choke
the mixture screws are sealed, an artificial enrichment procedure using lever.
propane gas is required to check the mixture. Adjusting the mixture by 21 To remove the intermediate choke shaft, remove the retaining
any other means may be a violation of law. screw inside the choke housing and the coil lever from the flats on the
shaft. Slide the intermediate shaft outward and remove the fast idle
cam from the shaft.
26 Carburetor (M2M series) - fast idle adjustment 22 Remove the cup seal from the float bowl insert. Do not remove the
cup seal from the float bowl insert. Do not remove the insert itself.
1 With the engine turned off, place the throttle on the high step of 23 Turn the float bowl upside down and remove the choke lever from
the fast idle cam. inside the cavity.
2 Disconnect and plug the vacuum hose at the EGR valve. 24 From the float bowl assembly, remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket,
3 Disconnect and plug the vacuum hose at the distributor. check valve filter and spring.
4 Start the engine in 'Park' or 'Neutral' without touching the 25 The throttle body can be separated from the float bowl by
accelerator pedal. removing the attaching screws.
5 Adjust the fast idle speed screw to the rpm specified on the 26 Remove the pump rod from the throttle lever.
emission decal. 27 Do not remove the plugs covering the idle mixture needles unless
6 Open the throttle to release the fast idle cam and turn off the it is necessary to replace the mixture screws. The mixture passages
engine. should clean with normal soaking and air pressure.
7 Unplug and reconnect the vacuum hoses to the EGR valve and 28 Clean all metal parts in a suitable cold solvent. Do not immerse
distributor. rubber parts, plastic parts, the vacuum break assembly or the idle stop
solenoid. Do not probe the jets, but blow them through with clean, dry
compressed air. Examine all fixed and moving parts for cracks,
27 Carburetor (M2M series) - overhaul distortion, wear and other damage. Replace parts as necessary.
Discard all gaskets and the fuel inlet filter.
1 When a carburetor develops faults after a considerable mileage, it 29 Assembly is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but
is usually more economical to replace the complete unit, rather than to the following points should be noted:
completely dismantle it and replace individual components. Where, a) Do not install the choke coil cover assembly until the inside
however, it is decided to strip and rebuild the unit, first obtain a repair coil lever is adjusted. With the fast idle cam follower on the
kit which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other needed items high step, push up on the coil tang until the choke valve is
and proceed in the following sequence. dosed. Insert a 0.120-inch plug gauge and bend the choke
2 Remove the solenoid (if equipped) from the float bowl. Screws rod near the lever until the lower edge of the lever just
secure the solenoid and bracket assembly. Do not immerse the contacts the plug gauge.
solenoid in any type of carburetor cleaner. b) With the float bowl components assembled, adjust the float
3 Remove the choke lever at the top of the carburetor by removing level. Hold down the float retainer firmly and push the float
the retaining screw. Then rotate the choke lever to remove the choke down tightly against the needle. Measure from the top of the
rod from its slot in the lever. float bowl (without gasket) to the top of the float, about ^in
4 To remove the choke rod from the lower lever, hold the lower lever back from the toe. Bend the float arm as necessary.
outward and twist the choke rod in a counterclockwise direction. c) Tighten the seven air horn attaching screws evenly in the
5 Note the position of the accelerator pump rod on its lever. Then sequence given.
remove the pump lever by driving the pivot pin inwards slightly until
the lever can be removed from the air horn.
6 Remove the seven screws which attach the top air horn assembly
to the bowl. Two of them are countersunk near the center of the
28 Carburetor (E2M-E4M series) - idle speed adjustment
carburetor. Lift the air horn straight up and off the float bowl.
7 From the air horn assembly, remove the vacuum break hose
1 The procedure for setting idle speed on the E2ME carburetor is the
followed by the vacuum break control and bracket assembly. Do not same as that for the M2ME. Refer to Section 25.
immerse the vacuum break assembly in carburetor cleaner.
8 Lift the air horn gasket from the top of the float bowl assembly
being careful not to distort the spring holding the main metering rods
in place.
9 Remove the pump plunger from the pump well. Following the
plunger from the well will be the plunger return spring.
10 Remove the power piston and metering rods from the well. Do this
by pressing down on the piston and releasing it quickly with a snap.
This procedure may have to be repeated many times. Do not remove
the piston with pliers on the metering rod hanger. The A.P.T. metering
rod adjustment screw is pre-set and should not be changed. If float
bowl replacement is necessary the new float bowl will be supplied
with a new A.P.T. metering screw.
1 1 Remove the metering rods from the power piston by disconnect¬
ing the spring from the top of each rod. Rotate the rod to remove from
the hangar.
12 Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve.
13 Remove the float assembly and float needle by pulling up on the
retaining pin. Also remove the needle, seat and gasket.
14 Remove the main metering jets only if necessary to replace.
15 Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball.
16 Remove the pump well fill slot baffle.
17 The choke cover is held in place with rivets to discourage
tampering. It is removed by drilling out the rivet heads with a 0.159-
in drill bit. Fig. 4.35 Air horn screw tightening diagram - E2ME (Sec 30)
18 Remove the choke assembly retainers, cover gasket and choke
cover assembly from the main housing. Do not remove the baffle
beneath the choke cover coil.
19 The choke housing can be removed from the float bowl by
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 151

these parts in carburetor cleaner.

29 Carburetor (E2M-E4M series) - fast idle adjustment 3 Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the shaft by
removing the retaining screw and rotating the lever.
1 The procedure for adjusting the fast idle on the E2ME is the same 4 Remove the choke rod from the lower lever inside the float bowl
as that for the M2ME. Refer to Section 26. casting. Do this by holding the lever outward and twisting the rod
counterclockwise.
5 Use a drift to drive the pump lever pivot pin inward until the lever
30 Carburetor (E2M-E2M series) - overhaul can be removed from the air horn. Note the position of the accelerator
- pump rod in the lever and then remove the pump lever from the pump
.1 1 When a carburetor develops faults after a considerable mileage, it rod.
i is usually more economical to replace the complete unit, rather than to 6 Remove the vacuum break hose from the tube on the float bowl.
completely dismantle it and replace individual components. Where, 7 Remove the nine (eleven on the E4ME-E4MC) air horn attaching
however, it is decided to strip and rebuild the unit, first obtain a repair screws. Two of them are countersunk near the center of the
kit which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other needed carburetor. Lift the air horn straight up and off the float bowl.
items, and proceed in the following sequence: 8 From the air horn assembly, remove the vacuum break control
2 Remove the screws holding the wide open throttle and idle with its bracket. Do not immerse this in carburetor cleaner.
solenoid and bracket assembly to the float bowl. Do not immerse 9 Remove the pump plunger stem seal (and a throttle position

r CHOKE LEVER CHOKE ROD

AIR HORN

PUMP FAST
IDLE
PLUNGER
CAM
IDLE SPEED
SCREW

C.E.C.
SOLENOID
(VALVE)

FUEL INLET
NUT AND
FILTER

CHOKE VACUUM
BREAK
SECONDARY THROTTLE THERM AC
PUMP ROD LOCKOUT LEVER TUBE
AND LEVER
IDLE MIXTURE LIMITER
CAP AND NEEDLE THROTTLE LEVER

Fig. 4.36 Rochester 4MV carburetor (Sec 31)

GAUGE BETWEEN AIR HORN WALL j

ANO LOWER EDGE 0E CHOKE VALVE M

GAUGE BETWEEN WALL

ANO LOWER EDGE OF
CHOKE VALVE

VACUUM
PLUNGER MUST BE
BEND CHOKE ROD EULLY SEATED
TO ADJUST ,i □

USE OUTSIDE
VACUUM SOURCE

CAM FOLLOWER
LIGHTLY ROTATE CHOKE
ON SECOND STE COIL LEVER COUNTERCLOCK
OF CAM WISE UNTIL END OE ROD IS
IN END OE SLOT IN LEVER OPEN PRIMARY THROTTLE
VALVES SO THAT FAST IDLE
CAM FOLLOWER CLEARS
EAST IDLE CAM

Fig. 4.38 Choke vacuum break adjustment - 4MV (Sec 33)

Fig. 4.37 Choke rod adjustment - 4MV (Sec 32)
 152 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

sensor (TPS) on the E4ME-MC) by inverting the air horn and using a
small screwdriver to remove the staking. Remove and discard the 1974 (350 and 455 CID engines)
retainer and seal. Use care when prying seal to avoid damage to the 1 Disconnect the distributor vacuum line from the distributor and
air horn casting. plug the lines. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
10 The air horn assembly includes an idle air bleed valve which is pre¬ 2 Disconnect the fuel tank line from the vapor canister.
set at the factory. The air valve and seals should not be removed from 3 Switch the air conditioning off.
the air horn unless replacement is necessary. The air horn assembly 4 With the engine at the normal operating temperature, adjust the
should not be immersed or cleaned in carburetor cleaner in the normal idle stop solenoid screw to obtain 650 rpm (manual transmission in
manner as this may damage the O-rings which seal the idle air bleed neutral) or 600 rpm (automatic transmission in Drive).
valve. 5 Place a fast idle cam follower on the second step of the cam and
11 Holding down on the pump plunger stem, raise the corner of the adjust the fast idle to 1350 rpm (manual) or 1500 rpm (automatic in
air horn gasket still attached to the float bowl and remove the pump Park).
plunger from its well. 6 The mixture screws fitted to these vehicles have limiter caps
12 Remove the solenoid metering rod plunger by lifting straight up. which restrict their movement to between j- and f turn lean. Any
1 3 Remove the rubber seal from around the mixture control solenoid adjustment should be confined to this but where the carburetor has
plunger. been overhauled or new components fitted, then the cap should be
14 Remove the air horn gasket from the float bowl. broken off and the following operations carried out.
15 Remove the pump return spring from the well. 7 Have the engine at the normal operating temperature with the air 1
16 Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve. conditioning off and a tachometer connected.
17 Carefully lift out each metering rod assembly. Make sure the return 8 Disconnect the fuel tank hose from the vapor canister.
spring comes with the assembly. 9 Adjust the idle speed screw until the initial idle speed (see
18 Remove the mixture control solenoid from the float bowl. Do this Specifications Section) is obtained.
by first removing the two attaching screws. Do not remove the 10 Now unscrew the mixture screws equally until maximum idle
solenoid connector at this time. Turn the mixture control screw speed is achieved. Readjust the idle speed screw again to obtain the
counterclockwise and remove the screw. Carefully lift the solenoid and initial idle speed.
connector assembly from the float bowl. The solenoid and connector 1 1 Screw in the mixture screws equally until the final idle speed (lean
are serviced as an assembly only. drop) is obtained (see Specifications Section).
19 Remove the plastic insert from the cavity in the float bowl under 12 If an Air Injection Reactor System is fitted, now turn the mixture
the solenoid connector. screws j turn out equally.
20 Remove the solenoid screw tension spring next to the float hanger 13 If the carburetor is fitted with a solenoid, the final idle speed
clip. should be adjusted to complete the turning procedure by de-energizing
21 Remove the float assembly and float needle by pulling up on the the solenoid and turning the solenoid Allen screw to attain 450 rpm.
retaining clip. Remove the needle and seat. 14 An alternative method of adjusting the mixture is to connect a CO
22 Remove the large mixture control solenoid spring from the bottom meter (exhaust gas analyzer) in accordance with the maker's instruc¬
of the float bowl. tions and adjust the screws equally until the emission level is within
23 Remove the main metering jets, if necessary. the maximum permitted (see Specifications Section).
24 Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball. 15 Install new limiter caps to the mixture screws so that any travel
25 Remove the pump well fill slot baffle, if necessary for replacement. will be in the lean direction (screw in) only.
26 Remove the rear vacuum break control, along with its attaching
bracket. Do not immerse this in carburetor cleaner. 1975 through 1980
2 7 The non-adjustable choke is designed to be a permanent fixture. 16 The operations are similar to those described in the preceding
Rivets are used to secure the cover. If disassembly is necessary, see paragraphs 1 through 14 except refer to Specifications Sections for
the overhaul instructions for the M2ME, as the choke mechanisms are initial, final and fast idle settings.
the same.
28 Remove the fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve filter assembly and
spring from the float bowl.
32 Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) — choke rod adjustment
29 Remove the four throttle body attaching screws and remove the
throttle body assembly.
1 Place the cam follower on the second step of the fast idle cam and
30 Remove the pump rod from the throttle lever by rotating the rod against the high step.
until the tang aligns with the slot in the lever.
2 Rotate the choke valve towards the closed position by turning the
31 Do not remove the plugs covering the idle mixture needles unless external lever counterclockwise.
they must be replaced, which is not common in a standard overhaul. 3 Check that the dimension between the lower edge of the choke
32 Clean all metal parts in a suitable cold solvent. Do not immerse valve and the air horn wall (at the lever end) is as specified. Bend the
rubber parts, plastic parts, the vacuum break assembly, wide-open choke rod if adjustment is required.
throttle switch, solenoid or air horn assembly. Do not probe the jets,
but blow them through with clean, dry compressed air. Examine all
fixed and moving parts for cracks, distortion, wear and other damage.
33 Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) — choke vacuum break adjust¬
Replace parts as necessary. Discard all gaskets and the fuel filter.
ment
33 Assembly is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but
the following points should be noted:
1 Using an external source of suction, seat the choke vacuum break
diaphragm.
a) To make the float level adjustment, hold the float retaining 2 Open the throttle slightly so that the cam follower clears the fast
dip firmly in place and push down lightly on the float arm. idle cam steps, then rotate the vacuum break lever towards the closed
Measure from the top of the float bowl casting (without direction. Ensure that the vacuum break rod is in the outer end of the
gasket) to the top of the float about i in back from the toe. slot in the diaphragm plunger. A rubber band can be used to hold the
Bend the float arm as necessary for adjustment. vacuum break lever in position.
b) Tighten the nine air horn attaching screws securely in the 3 Measure the distance from the lower edge of the choke valve to
sequence given.
the air horn wall. Check this against the figure shown in Specifications
Section and if adjustment is needed, bend the link rod.

31 Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - idle adjustment

34 Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - choke coil rod adjustment

Note: If the information given on the decal label has superseded the
1 Rotate the choke coil lever counterclockwise to fully close the
information given in the Specifications, the decal label should be choke.
assumed to be correct.
2 With the coil rod disconnected and the cover removed, push down
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 153

on the rod until it contacts the bracket surface.

3 The coil rod must fit in the choke lever notch; bend the rod to
CHOKE VALVE adjust if necessary.
4 Install the choke coil cover.
5 Install the coil rod in the choke coil lever slot and install the
retaining clip.
6 Check that the choke operates freely over its full range of travel.

35 Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - air valve dashpot adjustment

1 Seat the choke vacuum break diaphragm using an outside source

of suction, then measure the dimension between the end of the slot in
the vacuum break plunger lever and the air valve when the air valve is
fully closed.
2 If adjustment is necessary, bend the rod at the air valve end.

36 Carburetor (Rochester 4MV) - overhaul

1 When a carburetor develops faults after a considerable mileage, it

is usually more economical to replace the complete unit rather than to
completely dismantle it and replace individual components. However,
if it is decided to strip and rebuild the unit, first obtain a repair kit
which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other needed items,
and proceed in the following sequence.
2 Bend back the lockwasher tabs, then remove the idle stop
solenoid.
3 Remove the larger idle stop solenoid bracket screw from the float
bowl.
4 Remove the clip from the upper end of the choke rod, disconnect
the rod from the upper choke shaft lever and remove the rod from the
lower lever in the bowl.
5 Drive the pump lever pivot inwards to remove the roll pin then
remove the pump lever from the air horn and pump rod.
6 Remove 2 long screws, 5 short screws and 2 countersunk head
screws retaining the air horn to the float bowl.
7 Remove the vacuum break hose, and the diaphragm unit from the
bracket.
8 Disconnect the choke assist spring.
9 Remove the metering rod hanger and secondary rods after
removing the small screw at the top of the hanger.
10 Lift off the air horn, but leave the gasket in position. Do not
attempt to remove the air bleed tubes or accelerating well tubes.
1 1 If the choke valve is to be replaced, remove the valve attaching
screws, then measure the valve and shaft.
12 The air valves and air valve shaft are calibrated and should not be
removed. A shaft spring repair kit is available, and contains all the
necessary instructions, if these parts require replacement.
13 Remove the pump plunger from the well.
14 Carefully remove the air horn gasket.
15 Remove the pump return spring from the pump well.
Fig. 4.40 Air valve dashpot adjustment 4MV (Sec 35) 16 Remove the plastic filler over the float valve.
17 Press the power piston down and release it to remove it. Remove
the spring from the well. Note the power piston plastic retainer which
is used for ease of assembly.
18 Remove the metering rods from the power piston by disconnect¬
ing the spring from the top of each rod, then rotating the rod to remove
it from the hanger.
19 Remove the float assembly by pulling up on the retaining pin until
it can be removed, then sliding the float towards the front of the bowl
to carefully disengage the needle pull clip.
20 Remove the pull clip and the fuel inlet needle, then unscrew the
needle seat and remove the gasket.
21 Unscrew the primary metering jets; do not attempt to remove the
secondary metering jets.
22 Remove the discharge ball retainer and the check ball.
23 Remove the baffle from the secondary side of the bowl.
24 Remove the choke assembly after removing the retaining screw on
the side of the bowl. Remove the secondary locknut lever from the cast
boss on the bowl.
25 Remove the fast idle cam and the choke assembly.
26 Remove the intermediate choke rod and actuating lever from the
Fig. 4.41 Exploded view of air horn - 4MV (Sec 36) float bowl.
27 Remove the fuel inlet filter nut, gasket, filter and spring.
28 Remove the throttle body to bowl screws. Remove the throttle
body.
154 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

29 Remove the throttle body to bowl insulator gaskets.

30 Remove the pump rod from the throttle lever by rotating the rod 37 Carburetor (Rochester M4MC/M4MCA/M4ME) - idle
out of the primary lever. adjustment
31 Further dismantling is not recommended. If it is essential to
remove the idle mixture needles, pry out the plastic limiter caps then Note: If the information given on the decal label has superseded the
count the number of turns to bottom the needles and fit replacements information given in Specifications, the decal labels should be as¬
in exactly the same position. New limiter caps should be fitted after sumed to be correct. In 1978 General Motors changed the design of
running adjustments have been made (see Section 31). the carburetor idle mixture screw so that backing out the screw will
32 Clean all metal parts in a suitable cold solvent. Do not immerse not appreciably richen the mixture. Idle mixture adjustment is carried
rubber parts, plastic parts, the vacuum break assembly or the idle stop out with special propane enrichment equipment, a procedure best left
solenoid, or permanent damage will result. Do not probe the jets, but to a dealer.
blow them through with clean dry compressed air. Examine all fixed
and moving parts for cracks, distortion, wear and other damage; 1975 thru 1977
replace as necessary. Discard all gaskets and the fuel inlet filter.
1 Have the engine at normal operating temperature, air cleaner in
33 Assembly is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but
position and air conditioning off. Connect a reliable tachometer to the
the following points should be noted:
engine.
2 Disconnect the fuel tank hose from the vapor canister.
a) If new idle mixture screws are used, and the original setting
3 Disconnect the lead from the idle stop solenoid.
was not noted, install the screws finger-tight to seat them,
4 With automatic in Drive or manual in Neutral, turn the idle speed
then back off 4 full turns (see Section 31).
screw to obtain the curb (final) idle speed shown in the Specifications
b) Having installed the float, measure from the top of the float Section.
bowl gasket surface (gasket not fittedj to the top of the float
5 Reconnect the solenoid, crack open the throttle slightly to extend
at a point i in from the toe. Bend the float up, or down, to the solenoid plunger.
obtain the specified dimension.
6 Now turn the solenoid plunger screw to set the curb (initial) idle
c) Tighten the air horn retaining screws in the sequence shown.
speed shown in Specifications Section.
d) When connecting the pump lever to the upper pump rod,
7 Remove the tachometer and reconnect the fuel tank hose.
install the rod in the inner hole.
8 The idle mixture screws are pre-set and fitted with limiter caps
e) After reassembly, carry out all the relevant settings and
which allow them to be turned about one turn lean to rectify uneven
adjustments listed previously in this chapter.
idling. If after carburetor overhaul or replacement of components, the

Fig. 4.42 Exploded view of float bowl - 4MV (Sec 36)

7 Fuel inlet nut 9 Fast idle cam 17 Accelerator pump 25 Float hinge pin
I
2 Gasket 10 Secondary throttle lockout 18 Power piston spring 26 Float needle pull dip
3 Fuel filter 11 Gasket 19 Primary metering rods 2 7 Float needle
4 Fuel filter spring 12 Float bow/ assembly 20 Power piston 28 Float needle seat
5 Vacuum break hose 13 Idle speed screw 21 Metering rod retainer 29 Needle seat gasket
6 Vacuum diaphragm 14 Primary jets 22 Float 30 Discharge ball retainer
7 Air valve dashpot 15 Pump discharge ball 23 Secondary air baffle 31 Choke rod
8 Choke control bracket 16 Pump return spring 24 Float bow! insert 32 Choke lever
 155

GAUGE FROM TOP OF

CASTING TO TOP OF
FLOAT AT TOE

PUSH FLOAT
DOWN LIGHTLY
1 AGAINST NEEDLE BEND FLOAT UP OR
DOWN TO ADJUST

Fig. 4.43 Exploded view of the throttle body - 4MV (Sec 36)
Fig. 4.44 Float adjustment diagram - 4MV (Sec 36)
7 Shouldered retaining screw 6 Fast idle screw
2 Torsion spring 7 Screws
3 Fast idle adjusting lever 8 Idle mixture needle
4 Fast idle cam lever 9 Accelerator pump rod
5 Choke unloader lever 10 Throttle body assembly

Fig. 4.46 Rochester M4MC Quadrajet carburetor

Fig. 4.45 Air horn screw tightening sequence - 4MV (Sec 36)

Fig. 4.48 Pump rod adjustment diagram M4MC/M4MCA

Fig. 4.47 Rochester M4ME carburetor
156 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

T) LOOSEN THREE RETAINING SCREWS AND

REMOVE THE THERMOSTATIC COVER AND
COIL ASSEMBLY FROM CHOKE HOUSING

Fig. 4.49 Fast idle adjustment diagram - M4M series (Sec 39) Fig. 4.50 Choke coil level adjustment diagram - M4M series
(Sec 40)

Fig. 4.51 Choke rod (fast idle cam) adjustment diagram - M4M Fig. 4.52 Air valve dashpot adjustment - M4M series (Sec 42)
series (Sec 41)
mixture must be adjusted beyond the limit of travel of the caps, carry
out the following operations:
9 Repeat the procedure described in paragraphs 1 and 2.
10 Break off the cap on the mixture screws.
11 Set the idle speed to the curb (initial) figure using the solenoid
plunger.
12 Unscrew each of the mixture screws equally until the highest idle
speed is achieved. Reduce the speed if necessary to curb (initial)
specifications using the solenoid plunger.
13 Now screw in each of the mixture screws equally until the curb
(final) idle speed is obtained.
14 Reconnect the fuel tank hose and switch off the engine.

38 Carburetor (Rochester M4M series) - accelerator pump rod

adjustment

1 With the fast idle cam follower off the steps of the fast idle cam,
back out the idle speed screw until the throttle valves are completely
closed in the bore. Make sure that the secondary actuating rod is not
restricting movement: bend the secondary closing tang if necessary
then readjust it after pump adjustment.
Fig. 4.53 Front vacuum break adjustment diagram - M4M series 2 Place the pump rod in the inner hole in the lever.
(Sec 43) 3 Measure from the top of the choke valve wall (next to the vent
stack) to the top of the pump stem.
4 If necessary, adjust to obtain the specified dimension (see
 GAUGE BETWEEN AIR
NOTE: HOLD HORN WALL & UPPER EDGE
GAUGE OF CHOKE VALVE
VERTICALLY
CLOSING
ROD IN BOTTOM
ASSIST
OF SLOT
SPRING

NOTE: PLUG PURGE

BLEED HOLE WITH A
PIECE OF MASKING
TAPE

(6) BEND ROD (3) PUSH UP ON CHOKE COIL LEVER TOWARDS

© W TO ADJUST

SEAT REAR VACUUM

CLOSED CHOKE

(?) PLACE CAM FOLLOWER LEVER ON HIGHEST

BREAK DIAPHRAGM USING
STEP OF FAST IDLE CAM
OUTSIDE VACUUM SOURCE

Fig. 4.54 Rear vacuum break adjustment diagram - M4M series (Sec 44)

©
CHOKE VALVE
SHOULD BE

c:„ a kk Roar vacuum break adjustment diagram 455 CM

158 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Specifications Section) by bending the lever while supporting it with a 2 Place the cam follower lever on the highest step of the fast idle
screwdriver. cam.
5 Adjust the idle speed. 3 Using an outside source of suction, seat the diaphragm unit.
4 Push up on the inside choke coil lever until the tang on the
39 Carburetor (Rochester M4IV1 Series) - fast idle adjustment vacuum break lever contacts the tang on the plunger.
5 Measure between the upper edge of the choke valve and the
Carburetor removed inside of the air horn wall.
1 Place the cam follower lever on the highest step of the fast idle 6 Turn the adjustment screw on the vacuum break plunger to obtain
cam. the specified dimension.
7 Install the vacuum hose on completion.
2 Turn the fast idle screw out until the primary throttle valves are
closed.
3 Turn in the fast idle screw to contact the lever then screw in a 44 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) — rear vacuum break
further 3 full turns. adjustment

Carburetor in vehicle 350 and 403 CID engines

4 Connect a tachometer to the engine which should be at the 1 Initially follow the procedure of Paragraphs 1 thru 3 in the
normal operating temperature. previous Section, but additionally plug the bleed hose in the end cover
5 Place the transmission in Park or Neutral. of the vacuum break unit using adhesive tape.
6 Disconnect and plug the vacuum hose at the EGR valve. 2 Push up on the choke coil lever inside the choke housing towards
7 Position the cam follower on the highest step of the fast idle cam. the closed choke position.
8 Turn the fast idle screw to achieve the specified fast idle (see
3 With the choke rod in the bottom of the slot in the choke lever,
Specifications Section).
measure between the upper edge of the choke valve and the air horn
9 Remake the original connections, remove the tachometer and wall.
switch off the engine.
4 If necessary, bend the vacuum break rod at the point shown to
obtain the specified dimension.
40 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - choke coil lever 5 On completion, remove the adhesive tape and install the vacuum
adjustment hose.

1 Loosen the 3 retaining screws and remove the cover and coil
455 C/D engine
assembly from the choke housing.
6 Loosen the thermostatic cover screws and remove the cover and
2 Push up on the thermostatic coil tang (counterclockwise) until the
coil from the choke housing.
choke valve is closed.
7 Place the cam follower lever on the highest step of the fast idle
3 Check that the choke rod is at the bottom of the slot in the choke cam.
lever.
8 Seat the rear vacuum diaphragm using an external vacuum source
4 Insert a plug gauge (an unmarked drill shank is suitable) of the
(mouth or hand pump).
specified size in the hole in the choke housing.
9 Push up on the choke coil lever inside the choke housing (towards
5 The lower edge of the choke coil lever should just contact the side
closed choke) until the step is pulled out and seated with the spring
of the plug gauge.
compressed.
6 If necessary, bend the choke rod at the point shown.
10 With the choke rod in bottom of the slot in the choke lever,
measure between the upper edge of the choke valve plate and the air
41 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - fast idle cam (choke horn wall. The dimensions should be as specified in the Specifications
rod) adjustment Section at the beginning of this Chapter.
1 1 Where necessary, bend the vacuum break rod at the point
indicated.
Note: Always adjust choke coil lever before carrying out the following
operations. 12 Remake the original vacuum hose connection and install the coil
assembly and cover.
1 Turn the fast idle screw in until it contacts the fast idle cam
follower lever, then turn in 3 full turns more.
2 Place the lever on the second step of the fast idle cam against the
rise of the high step. 45 Carburetor (Rochester M4MC and M4MCA) - automatic
3 Push upwards on the choke coil lever inside the housing to close choke coil adjustment
the choke valve.
4 Measure between the upper edge of the choke valve and the air 1 With the hot air heater type of choke, install the choke coil and
horn wall. cover assembly with a gasket between the cover and housing. The
5 If necessary, bend the tang on the fast idle cam to adjust, but tang in the coil must be installed in the slot inside the choke coil lever
ensure that the tang lies against the cam after bending pick-up arm.
6 Re-check the fast idle adjustment. 2 Place the fast idle cam follower on the highest step of the fast idle
cam then rotate the cover counterclockwise until the choke just closes.
42 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - air valve dashpot 3 Align the index mark on the cover with the specified point (2
adjustment notches lean) on the choke housing then tighten the retaining screws.

1 Using an external source of suction, seat the front vacuum break

diaphragm. Suction from the mouth or a small hand pump is normally
adequate.
2 Ensure that the air valves are completely closed then measure
between the air valve dashpot and the end of the slot in the air valve
lever. This dimension should be 0.015 in.
3 Bend the air valve dashpot rod at the point shown, if adjustment
is necessary.

43 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - front vacuum break

adjustment

1 Loosen the 3 retaining screws and remove the choke coil cover Fig. 4.56 Automatic choke coil adjustment diagram -
and coil assembly from the choke housing.
M4MC/M4MCA only (Sec 45)
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 159
,--
7 ———
46 Carburetor (Rochester M4ME) - automatic choke coil adjust¬
ment
--—

1 With this type of electrically heated automatic choke, make sure

that with the coil assembly inside the choke housing, the coil tang
contacts the bottom side of the inner face of the choke coil lever pick¬
up arm.
2 Position the fast idle cam follower on the high step of the cam.
3 Rotate the cover and coil assembly counterclockwise until the
! choke valve just closes.
4 Align the index marks (center) and install the cover and screws.
Note: The ground contact for the electrically heated choke is through
a metal plate at the rear of the choke assembly. Do not install a gasket
between the cover and housing or this will interrupt the circuit.

47 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - unloader adjustment

1 Adjust the choke coil, as described in the previous section.

Fig. 4.57 Automatic choke coil adjustment - M4ME only (Sec 46)
2 Hold the throttle valves wide open and the chokes fully closed. A
rubber band can be used on the tang of the intermediate choke lever
if the engine is warm.
3 Measure between the upper edge of the choke valve and the air
horn wall.
4 If adjustment is necessary, bend the tang on the fast idle lever to
obtain the specified dimension. Ensure that the tang on the fast idle
cam lever contacts the center point of the fast idle cam after
adjustment.

48 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - secondary throttle valve

lock-out adjustment

Lock-out lever clearance

1 Hold the choke valves and secondary lock-out valves closed then
measure the clearance between the lock-out pin and lock-out lever.
2 If adjustment is necessary, bend the lock-out pin to obtain the
specified clearance (0.015 inch).

Opening clearance
3 Push down on the tail of the fast idle cam to hold the choke wide
open.
4 Hold the secondary throttle valve paitly open then measure
between the end of the lock-out pin and the toe of the lock-out lever.
Fig. 4.58 Secondary throttle valve lockout adjustment - M4M
(This should be 0.015 inch). series (Sec 48)
5 If adjustment is necessary, file the end of the lock-out pin but
ensure that no burrs remain afterwards.

49 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) — secondary closing

adjustment

1 Adjust the engine idle speed, as described previously in this

Chapter.
2 Hold the choke valve wide open with the cam follower lever off the
steps of the fast idle cam.
3 Measure the clearance between the slot in the secondary thrott e
valve pick-up lever and the secondary actuating rod.
4 If adjustment is necessary, bend the secondary tang on the
primary throttle lever to obtain the specified clearance (0.020 inch).

50 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) — secondary opening

adjustment

1 Lightly open the primary throttle lever until the link just contacts
the tang on the secondary lever. Fig 4 59 Choke unloader adjustment diagram - M4M series
2 Bend the tang on the secondary lever, if necessary, to position t e (Sec 47)
link in the center of the secondary lever slot.
160 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

CHOKE VALVE
WIDE OPEN CAM FOLLOWER

Fig. 4.60 Secondary closing adjustment diagram - M4M series

(Sec 49)
Fig. 4.61 Secondary opening adjustment - M4M series (Sec 50)
I AwiTH LOCK SCREW LOOSENED AND
WITH AIR VALVE CLOSED TU R N AOJ USTING
SCREW SPECIFIED NUMBER OF TURNS AFTER

Fig. 4.62 Air valve spring wind-up adjustment - M4M series

(Sec 51)

Fig. 4.63 Removing pump plunger - M4M series (Sec 52)

PUMP DISCHARGE

Fig. 4.64 Power piston and metering rods - M4M series (Sec 52)

51 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - air valve spring wind-up

adjustment

1 Remove the front vacuum break diaphragm unit and the air valve
dashpot rod.
2 Using a suitable hexagonal wrench loosen the lock screw then
turn the tension adjusting screw counterclockwise until the air valve is
partly open.
3 Hold the air valve closed then turn the tension adjusting screw
clockwise the specified number of turns after the spring contacts the
pin (Air Valve Spring Wind-up, see Specifications Section).
4 Tighten the lockscrew and install the air valve dashpot rod, and the
front vacuum break diaphragm unit and bracket. Fig. 4.65 Float bowl jets - M4M series (Sec 52)
 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems 161

Fig. 4.69 Air horn screw-tightening sequence - M4M series

(Sec 52)
LOCKOUT
PIN
SECONDARY FAST IDLE INTERMEDIATE 52 Carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) - overhaul
LOCK OUT CAM FOLLOWER CHOKE SHAFT
LEVER
1 When a carburetor fault develops after a considerable mileage, it
Fig. 4.66 Choke housing assembly - M4M series (Sec 52) is usually more economical to replace the complete unit rather than to
completely dismantle it and replace individual components. However,
if it is decided to strip and rebuild the unit, first obtain a repair kit
which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other needed items,
and proceed in the following manner.
2 If the carburetor has an idle stop solenoid, remove the bracket
retaining screws and lift away the solenoid and bracket assembly.
3 Remove the upper choke lever from the end of the choke shaft (1
screw) then rotate the lever to remove it, and disengage it from the
choke rod.
4 Remove the choke rod from the lower lever inside the float bowl
by holding the lever outwards with a small screwdriver and twisting
the rod counterclockwise.
5 Remove the vacuum hose from the front vacuum break unit.
6 Remove the small screw at the top of the metering rod hanger,
and remove the secondary metering rods and hanger.
7 Using a suitable drift, drive the small pump lever pivot roll pin
inwards to permit removal of the lever.
8 Remove 2 long screws, 5 short screws and 2 countersunk head air
horn screws to detach the float bowl. Remove the secondary air baffle
deflector (where applicable) from beneath the 2 center air horn screws.
9 Remove the float bowl but leave the gasket in position at this
stage. Do not attempt to remove the small tubes protruding from the
air horn.
10 Remove the front vacuum break bracket screws and lift ott the
unit. Detach the air valve dashpot rod from the diaphragm assembly
and the air valve lever.
1 1 If considered necessary, remove the staked choke valve attaching
screws then remove the choke valve and shaft from the air horn. Do
Fig. 4.67 Connecting choke rod lever - M4M series (Sec 52) not remove the air valve and the air valve shaft. The air valve closing
spring or center plastic cam can be replaced by following the
instructions in the appropriate repair kit.
12 Remove the air horn gasket from the float bowl taking care not to
distort the springs holding the main metering rods.
HOLD RETAINER GAUGE FROM TOP OF 1 3 Remove the pump plunger and pump return spring from the pump
\ FIRMLY IN PLACE CASTING TO TOP OF
well.
FLOAT AT TOE. 14 Depress the power piston stem and allow it to snap tree,
withdrawing the metering rods with it. Remove the power piston
spring from the well.
15 Taking care to prevent distortion, remove the metering rods from
the power piston by disconnecting the tension springs then rotating
the rods.
16 Remove the plastic filler block over the float valve then remove the
PUSH FLOAT float assembly and needle by pulling up on the pin. Remove the needle
DOWN LIGHTLY
1 AGAINST NEEDLE BEND FLOAT UP OR seat and gasket. .
DOWN TO ADJUST 1 7 Remove the 2 cover screws and carefully lift out the metering rod
and filler spool (metering rod and aneroid on M4MCA carburetors)
from the float bowl. Note: The adjustable part throttle (APT) metering
rod assembly is extremely fragile and must not be interfered with. If
replacement is necessary, refer to paragraphs 35 thru 44.
Fig. 4.68 Float level adjustment diagram - M4M series (Sec 52) 18 Remove the primary main metering jets. Do not attempt to
remove the APT metering jet or secondary metering orifice plates.
 162 Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

19 Remove the pump discharge check ball retainer and the ball. bottoms in the cover.
20 Remove the rear vacuum break hose and the bracket retaining 39 Remove the E-clip from the threaded end of the rod then turn the
screws. Remove the vacuum break rod from the slot in the plunger rod clockwise until it disengages from the cover.
head. 40 Install the tension spring on the new metering rod assembly and
21 Press down on the fast idle cam and remove the vacuum break screw the rod and spring assembly into the cover until the assembly
rod. Move the end of the rod away from the float bowl, then disengage bottoms.
the rod from the hole in the intermediate lever. 41 Turn the adjusting screw clockwise the number of turns noted at
22 Remove the choke cover attaching screws and retainers. Pull off paragraph 38.
the cover and remove the gasket. 42 Install the E-clip. Note: It will not matter if the scribed line
23 Remove the choke housing assembly from the float bowl by (paragraph 36) does not align exactly provided that the assembly
removing the retaining screw and washer. sequence has been followed.
24 Remove the secondary throttle valve lock-out lever from the float 43 Carefully install the cover and metering rod assembly onto the
bowl. float bowl, aligning the tab on the cover assembly with the float bowl
25 Remove the lower choke lever by inverting the float bowl. slot closest to the fuel inlet nut.
26 Remove the plastic tube seal from the choke housing. 44 Install the cover attaching screws and nut.
27 If it is necessary to remove the intermediate choke shaft from the
choke housing, remove the coil lever retaining screw and withdraw the
lever. Slide out the shaft and (if necessary), remove the fast idle cam.
28 Remove the fuel inlet filter nut, gasket and filter from the float
bowl.
29 If necessary, remove the pump well fill slot baffle and the
secondary air baffle.
30 Remove the throttle body attaching screws and lift off the float
bowl. Remove the insulator gasket.
31 Remove the pump rod from the lever on the throttle body.
32 If it is essential to remove the idle mixture needles, pry out the
plastic limiter caps then count the number of turns to bottom the
needles and fit replacements in exactly the same position. New limiter
caps should be fitted after running adjustments have been made.
33 Clean all metal parts in a suitable cold solvent. Do not immerse
rubber parts, plastic parts, pump plungers, filler spools or aneroids, or
vacuum breaks. If the choke housing is to be immersed, remove the
cup seal from inside the choke housing shaft hole. If the bowl is to be
immersed remove the cup seal from the plastic insert; do not attempt
to remove the plastic insert. Do not probe the jets, but blow through
with clean, dry compressed air. Examine all fixed and moving parts for Fig. 4.70 Exhaust system - typical (Sec 53)
cracks, distortion, wear and other damage; replace as necessary.
Discard all gaskets and the fuel inlet filter.
34 Assembly is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but
the following points should be noted:

a) if new idle mixture screws were used, and the original setting
was not noted, install the screws finger-tight to seat them,
53 Exhaust system - general description
then back off 4 full turns.
b) The Up on the plastic insert cup seal (on the side of the float
1 The exact exhaust system installed will depend on a number of
bowl) faces outward.
factors, most notably the engine size, geographic area where the car
c) The Up on the inside choke housing shaft hole cup seal faces
will be driven and the year of production. Typical components of an
inwards towards the housing.
exhaust system are: the exhaust manifold connected to the engine, a
d) When installing the assembled choke body, install the choke
muffler, a catalytic converter (1975 and later) and exhaust pipe to
rod lever into the cavity in the float bowl. Install the plastic
route the gases through the components and out the rear of the car.
tube seal into the housing cavity before installing the housing.
2 Information concerning the catalytic converter can be found in
Ensure that the intermediate choke shaft engages into the
Chapter 6 dealing with the emission system.
lower choke lever. The choke coil is installed at the last stage
3 The exhaust system should be periodically checked for leaks which
of assembly.
could prove hazardous to persons inside the car. Leaks can be detected
e) Where applicable, the notches on the secondary float bowl air
by placing your hand along the pipes before the system has warmed
baffle are towards the top, and the top edge of the baffle must
up. After driving, the exhaust system can cause injury if touched. A
be flush with the bowl casting.
leaking exhaust system can also become apparent by excessive noise
f) To adjust the float, hold the retainer firmly in place and push
during operation.
down lightly against the needle. Measure from the top of the
4 As a general rule, the components of the exhaust system are
float bowl casting (air horn gasket removed) to a point on the
secured by U-shaped clamps. After removing the clamps, the exhaust
top of the float ^ in back from the toe. Bend the float arm to
pipes (which are of a slightly different diameter) can be pulled away
obtain the specified dimension by pushing on the pontoon.
from each other. Due to the high temperatures and exposed location
g) Tighten the air horn screws in the order shown.
of the exhaust pieces, rust and corrosion can 'freeze' the parts
h) On completion of assembly, adjust the front and rear vacuum
together. Liquid penetrating oils are available to help loosen the
breaks, fast idle cam (choke rod), choke coil lever and
connections; however, it is often necessary to cut the parts with a hack
automatic choke coil.
saw or cutting torch.
The later method should be employed only by a person ex¬
APT metering rod replacement perienced in this work.
35 Replacement of the metering rod must only be carried out if the 5 The exhaust system is often a cause of mysterious rattles and
assembly is damaged or the aneroid has failed.
noises heard from inside the car. The rubber-insulated hangers which
36 Lightly scribe the cover to record the position of the adjusting suspend the system should be checked for deterioration and damage.
screw slot.
No exhaust components should come in contact with other vehicle
37 Remove the cover screws then carefully lift out the rod and cover parts.
assembly.
6 When replacing exhaust system parts, do not tighten the clamp
38 Hold the assembly upright then turn the adjusting screw counter¬ bolts until the complete system has been installed and clearances
clockwise, counting the number of turns until the metering rod checked. Then tighten from the front to the rear.
Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems
Refer to Chapter 13 for information applicable to later models

Contents

Alternator - maintenance and special precautions. 14 Distributor (breakerless-type) - overhaul. 10

Alternator - removal and installation. 15 Distributor cap - replacement (1974). 6
Alternator - testing. 16 General description - ignition system. 1
Battery charging. 3 Ignition coil - removal and installation. 1 1
Battery - maintenance. 2 Spark plugs. 12
Battery - removal and installation. 4 Starter motor - dismantling and component testing. 20
Charging system - general description. 13 Starter motor - reassembly and adjustment. 21
Condenser (capacitor) — testing, removal and installation Starter motor - removal and installation. 19
(1974). 5 Starter motor solenoid - removal, repair and installation. 22
Distributor - installation (1974). 8 Starter motor - testing in vehicle. 18
Distributor - removal and overhaul (1974). 7 Starting system - general description. 17
Distributor - removal and installation (1975 through 1980). 9

Specifications

System type . 12 volt, negative ground

Battery . Energizer type-lead, acid
Distributor type
1974 . Mechanical contact breaker. Optional High Energy Ignition
1975 through 1980. Breakerless, High Energy Ignition (HEI), electronic
Mechanical distributor contact breaker gap (1974)
(prior to checking dwell angle). 0.016 in
Dwell angle (1974) . 30° ± 2°
Rotation direction of distributor . Clockwise, viewed from the top

Firing order
V6 engines. 1-6-5-4—3-2
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
V8 engines.
Coil (with mechanical distributor)
Primary resistance. 1.77 to 2.05 Ohms
Secondary resistance. 3000 to 20000 Ohms
Resistor. 0.43 to 0.68 Ohms

Coil (with HEI distributor)

0.41 to 0.51 Ohms
Primary resistance.
3000 to 20000 Ohms
Secondary resistance.
0.43 to 0.68 Ohms
Resistor.
Alternator
Delcotron
Type.
4.0/4.5 amps at 80°F
Field current.
varies according to vehicle specifications and particular alternator type
Output current.
Integral with alternator
Voltage regulator .
9 volts
Starter motor .
Spark plugs compartment) differs from the type listed below, the information on the
Note: If the spark plug type listed on the tune-up decal (in the engine
decal should be considered correct.
 164 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems
—
Year and engine Spark plug Gap
1974 - 350. R45TS 0.040 in
455 . R45TS 0.040 in
1975 - 231 . '
R44SX 0.060 in
350. R45TSX 0.060 in
1976 - 231 . R44SX 0.060 in
350. R45TSX 0.060 in
1977 - 231 (all except Calif). R46TS 0.040 in
231 (Calif). R46TSX 0.060 in
305.. R45TS 0.045 in
350 (2-bbl carb/automatic). R46TS 0.040 in
350 (high altitude/Calif). R46TSX 0.060 in
350 (all others) . R45TS 0.045 in
403. R46SZ 0.060 in
1978 - 196. R46TSX 0.060 in
231 . R46TSX 0.060 in
305 . R45TS 0.045 in . 1
350 (4-bbl carb/automatic). R46SZ 0.060 in
350 (all others). R46TSX 0.060 in
1979 - 196. R45TSX 0.060 in
231 (49 state manual). R46TSX 0.060 in
231 (Calif/high altitude/'E' turbo) R44TSX 0.060 in
231 (all others). R45TSX 0.060 in
301 (VIN code W). R45TSX 0.060 in
301 (VIN code Y). R46TSX 0.060 in
305. R45TS 0.045 in
350 (high altitude). R45TS 0.045 in
350 (all others). R46SZ 0.060 in
1980 - 231 (low altitude turbo). R45TS 0.040 in
231 (all others). R45TSX 0.060 in
265 . R45TSX 0.060 in
301 . R45TSX 0.060 in
305. R45TS 0.035 in

Year Distributor Centrifugal Vacuum Dwell Ignition

and No. advance advance angle timing at
engine crank degrees crank degrees degrees engine idle
@ engine rpm ® in hg degrees BTDC

1974
350 Cl D V8 1112451 0 ® 750 to 1050 BTDC only 28 to 32 4 (± 2)
1112802 HEI

455 CID V8 1112542 BTDC only 28 to 32 4 (± 2)

1112803 HEI 0 ® 750 to 1050

455 CID V8 (L-75) 1112521 0 ® 600 to 1050 BTDC only 28 to 32 10 (+ 2)

455 CID V8 (L-76) 1112520 0 ® 750 to 1050 BTDC only 28 to 32 4 (± 2)

1975
231 CID V6 1110661 0 ® 1000 0 ® 5 to 7 electronic ignition 12
1 110663 (Calif) 10 ® 2000 18 ® 10
16 ® 4100
350 CID V8 1112896 0 ® 750 to 1400 0 ® 6.5 to 8.5 electronic ignition 12
1112984 4 to 8 ® 2100 10 to 16 ® 11.5
1112962 10 to 14® 4500

1976
231 CID V6 1110668 0 to 4.4 @ 1535 0 to 2 ® 5.3 electronic ignition 12
12.3 to 16.8 @ 3000 22.5 to 25.5 ® 12.8
13.5 to 18 ® 3175
1 1.3 to 18 ® 5000
1110661 (Calif) 0 to 4.4 ® 1535
350 CID V8 1112991 0 to 4.3 ® 1744 0 to 2 e 6.9 electronic ignition 12
1 7.8 to 22 ® 4425 18.5 to 21.5 ® 14.3
17.4 to 22 ® 5000

1977
231 CID V6 1110694 BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic ignition 12
1110677 BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic ignition 12
1110686 (Calif) BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic ignition 12
305 CID V8 1103239 BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic ignition 8
1103275 BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic ignition 8
 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 165

1978
196 CID V6 1110695
1 1 10679 (turbo) BTDC timing only
1 110731 (Calif) BTDC timing only
1110739 BTDC timing only
(man trans)
1110764 BTDC timing only
(4-bbl carb)
1110735 BTDC timing only
BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic timing 15
305 CID V8 1103281
(high alt)
1103282 BTDC timing only
BTDC only electronic ignition 15
350 CID V8 1103284 BTDC timing only
(high alt)

1979 electronic ignition 1 5 ® 600 rpm

1110775 BTDC timing only BTDC only
196 CID V6
(auto trans)
BTDC timing only BTDC only electronic ignition
1110770
BTDC only electronic ignition 1 5 @ 800
231 CID V6 1110766 BTDC timing only
1 5 @ 800
(high alt)
BTDC only electronic ignition 15 @ 800
11 10779 BTDC timing only
(auto trans)
BTDC only electronic ignition 1 5 @ 600
1110774 BTDC timing only
a5 ® 800
(4-bbl carb)
BTDC only electronic ignition 1 5 @ 650
1110770 BTrC timing only
electronic ignition 12 ® 650
1103314 BTDC timing only BTDC only
301 CID V8
(2-bbl carb)
electronic ignition 4 @ 600
1103310 BTDC timing only BTDC

(4-bbl carb)
electronic ignition 20 ® 1100
BTDC timing only BTDC
305 CID V8 1103368
electronic ignition 8 ® 600
BTDC timing only BTDC
350 CID V8 1103353
(high alt)

1980 BTDC electronic ignition 1 5 @ 550

(high alt) BTDC timing only
231 CID V6 electronic ignition 1 5 ® 650
BTDC timing only BTDC
w/Calif C4 Turbo (high alt) 12 @ 500
BTDC electronic ignition
(high alt) BTDC timing only
301 CID V8 electronic ignition 4 ® 550
BTDC timing only BTDC
305 CID V8 (high alt)

in the cap, which are

comes in line with one of the 8 segments
connected to the spark plug leads, the opening and closing of the
1 General description - ignition system
contact breaker points causes the high tension voltage to build up,
jump the gap from the rotor arm to the appropriate segment and so,
In order that the engine can run correctly it is necessary for an
via the spark plug lead to the spark plug, where it finally jumps the
electrical spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion
spark plug gap before going to ground.
chamber at exactly the right moment in relation to engine speed and
The ignition advance is controlled both mechanically and by a
load. The ignition system is based on feeding low tension (LT) voltage
vacuum operated system. The mechanical governor mechanism com¬
from the battery to the coil where it is converted to high tension (HT)
prises two weights, which move out from the distributor shaft as the
voltage. The high tension voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark
engine speed rises due to centrifugal force. As they move outwards
plug gap in the cylinders many times a second under high compression
they rotate the cam relative to the distributor shaft, and so advance the
pressures, providing that the system is in good condition and that all
spark. The weights are held in position by two light springs and it is the
adjustments are correct. tension of the springs which is largely responsible for correct spark
The ignition system fitted to all 1974 cars as standard equipment
advancement. , .
is the conventional distributor with mechanical contact breaker an
The vacuum control consists of a diaphragm, one side of which is
coil type. For 1975 and later models a breakerless high energy ignition
connected via a small bore tube to the carburetor, and the other side
(HEI) system is standard. to the contact breaker plate. Depression in the inlet manifold and
carburetor, which varies with engine speed and throttle opening,
Pre-1975 ignition systems causes the diaphragm to move, so moving the contact breaker plate,
The ignition system is divided into two circuits: the low tension and advancing or retarding the spark. A fine degree of control is
circuit and the high tension circuit. , . . . achieved by a spring in the vacuum assembly.
The low tension (sometimes known as the primary) circuit consi On some models, a Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) system
of the battery lead to the starter motor, lead to the ignition switch, has an effect on vacuum advance. Further information on this system
calibrated resistance wire from the ignition switch to the ow tension can be found in Chapter 6.
or primary coil winding, and the lead from the low tension coil
windings to the contact breaker points and condenser in the dis-
1975 and later ignition systems
Note- Some Buicks were available with an optional high energy
tMb The high tension circuit consists of the high tension or secondary ignition (HEI) system for 1974. If your vehicle is equipped with one.
coil windings, the heavy ignition lead from the center o t e coi follow the instructions for 1975 and later.
center of the distributor cap, the rotor, and the spark p ug e The high energy ignition (HEI) system is a pulse triggered,
transistor controlled, inductive discharge system.
SPaTheIUsystem functions in the following manner. Low tension A magnetic pick-up inside the distributor contains a permanent
voltage is changed in the coil into high tension voltage y t e ope maqnet, pole-piece and pick-up coil. A time core, rotating inside the
and closing of the contact breaker points in the low tension circuit pole piece, induces a voltage in the pick-up coil, and when teeth on the
High tension voltage is then fed via the brush in the center of the timer and pole piece line up, a signal passes to the electronic module
distributor cap to the rotor arm of the distributor cap, and each time
166 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

to open the coil primary circuit. The primary circuit current decreases every 10°F (5.5°C) that the electrolyte temperature is above that
and a high voltage is induced in the coil secondary winding; this is then stated, add 0.04 to the specific gravity or subtract 0.04 if the
directed to the spark plugs by the distributor rotor as with the temperature is below that stated.
conventional system. A capacitor is fitted to suppress radio inter¬ 8 A specific gravity reading of 1.240 with an electrolyte temperature
ference. of 80°F (26.7°C) indicates a half-charged battery.
The system features a longer spark duration and the dwell period 9 With the 'Freedom' type of battery, a charge indicator is built into
automatically increases with engine speed. These features are de¬ it which uses a color system to relay the state of charge of the battery.
sirable for firing lean and EGR diluted mixtures (refer to Chapter 6).
The ignition coil, somewhat smaller than the coil in a conventional 3 Battery charging
system, and the elctronic module are both housed in the distributor
cap. The distributor does not require routine servicing. 1 In winter time when heavy demand is placed upon the battery,
Spark advancement is by mechanical and vacuum means, as such as when starting from cold, and much electrical equipment is
described for conventional systems. The TCS system is not used. continually in use, it is a good idea to occasionally have the battery
If the need arises for the vehicle to be cranked remotely using fully charged from an external source at the rate of 3.5 to 4 amps.
jumper cables from another battery source, the distributor BAT 2 Continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise in
terminal must be disconnected. specific gravity is noted over a four hour period.
3 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at the rate of 1.5 amps can ij
2 Battery - maintenance be safely used overnight.
4 Special rapid boost charges which are claimed to restore the
1 Every week, check the level of the battery electrolyte. The method power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are most dangerous as they can
of doing this depends upon the type of battery. Some batteries have a cause serious damage to the battery plates. This type of charge should
'Delco eye' which glows if the level is low. Others have a split ring in only be used in a 'crisis' situation.
the filler opening with which the electrolyte should be level. 5 On vehicles equipped with the maintenance-free battery, do not
2 On later vehicles a Freedom' battery is used which does not charge the battery if the built-in hydrometer on the top of the battery
require topping up. is a clear or light yellow color. This coloring indicates that the battery
3 Clean the top of the battery, removing all dirt and moisture needs replacement.
(photos). As well as keeping the terminals clean and covered with
petroleum jelly, the top of the battery, and especially the top of the 4 Battery - removal and installation
cells, should be kept clean and dry. This helps prevent corrosion and
ensures that the battery does not become partially discharged by 1 The battery is located at the front of the engine compartment. It
leakage through dampness and dirt. On some models a felt ring is used is held in place by either a hold-down rod running across the top of the
under the battery terminals. This should be oiled. battery or a clamp near the bottom of the battery case.
4 Once every three months, remove the battery and inspect the 2 As hydrogen gas is produced by the battery, keep open flames or
battery securing bolts, the battery clamp plate, and battery leads for lighted cigarettes away from the battery at all times.
corrosion (white fluffy deposits on the metal which are brittle to 3 Avoid spilling any of the electrolyte battery fluid on the vehicle or
touch). If any corrosion is found, clean off the deposits with an yourself. Always keep the battery in the upright position. Any spilled
ammonia or soda solution. After cleaning, smear petroleum jelly on the electrolyte should be immediately flushed with large quantities of
battery terminals and lead connectors. Application of a zinc-base water. Wear eye protection when working with a battery to prevent
primer and/or underbody paint wil help to prevent recurrence of serious eye damage from splashed fluid.
corrosion on body panel metal. 4 Always disconnect the negative (-) battery cable first, followed by
5 If topping-up the battery becomes excessive and the case has the positive (+) cable.
been inspected for cracks that could cause leakage, but none are 5 After the cables are disconnected from the battery, remove the
found, the battery is beng over-charged and the alternator will have to hold-down mechanism, be it a rod or bottom clamp.
be tested and if necessary serviced as described later in this Chapter. 6 Carefully lift the battery from its tray and out of the engine
6 If any doubt exists about the state of charge of a battery, a compartment.
hydrometer should be used to test it by withdrawing a little electrolyte 7 Installation is a reversal of removal, however make sure that the
from each cell in turn. hold-down clamp or rod is securely tightened. Do not over-tighten,
7 The specific gravity of the electrolyte at the temperature of 80°F however, as this may damage the battery case. The battery posts and
(26.7°C) will be approximately 1.270 for a fully charged battery. For cable ends should be cleaned prior to connection.

2.3a Unbolt the cable connector from the terminal and gently pry apart 2.3b Use a terminal cleaning brush to clean the battery terminals and
the pinched connector ends cable connectors
 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 167

5 Condenser (capacitor) - testing, removal and installation 6 Distributor cap - replacement (1974)
(1974)
Note: It is imperative that the spark plug wires be installed in the
1 The condenser ensures that when the contact breaker points open, correct order on the distributor cap.
the sparking between them is not excessive to cause severe pitting. 1 Purchase a replacement distributor cap for the particular model
The condenser is fitted in parallel and its failure will automatically year and engine size.
cause failure of the ignition system as the points will be prevented 2 Release the old cap from the distributor body by pushing down¬
from interrupting the low tension circuit. ward on the slotted latches and then turning the latches -j turn.
2 Testing for an unserviceable condenser may be done by switching 3 Place the new cap next to the old one. Use the metal window and
on the ignition and separating the contact points by hand. If this action the two latches as reference points to get the new cap in the same
is accompanied by a blue flash then condenser failure is indicated. relative position.
Difficult starting, missing of engine after several miles running or badly 4 Begin transferring the spark plug wires one at a time from the old
pitted points are other indications of a faulty condenser. cap to the new one. Do not pull on the wire insulation, but rather grab
3 The surest test is by substitution with a new unit. the rubber boot, twist slightly and then pull the plug wire free by the
4 To replace the condenser, remove the distributor cap, rotor and boot.
RFI shield. 5 Push the plug wires and boots firmly onto the new distributor cap.
5 Disconnect the condenser lead and remove the condenser retain¬ 6 Place the new cap and plug wires into position over the top of the
ing screw. Slide the condenser from the bracket. distributor and lock it in place by pushing and turning the latches.
6 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure the cap is firmly seated.

Fig. 5.1 Exploded view of mechanical breaker type distributor (Sec 7)

11 Cap 16 Advance weight

1 Condenser 6 Vacuum advance unit
12 Rotor 1 7 Cam weight base
2 Contact point assembly 7 Housing
13 Radio frequency assembly
3 Retaining ring 7a Tanged washer
8 Shim washer interference shield
4 Breaker plate
9 Drive gear pin 14 Weight springs
5 Felt washer
i 0 Drive gear 15 Mainshaft
5a Plastic sea!
168 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

10 Drive out the roll pin retaining the gear to the shaft then pull off
7 Distributor - removal and overhaul (1974) the gear and spacers.
11 Ensure that the shaft is not burred, then slide it from the housing.
1 Release the two latches on the distributor cap by pressing them 12 Remove the cam weight base assembly.
downward with a screwdriver and then turning them \ turn. Move the 13 Remove the screws retaining the vacuum unit and lift off the unit
cap (with the spark plug wires still attached) out of the way. Use wire itself.
or tape if necessary.
14 Remove the spring retainer (snap-ring) then remove the breaker
2 Disconnect the distributor primary wiring lead from the coil plate assembly.
terminal. 15 Remove the contact points and condenser, followed by the felt
3 At this point it is important to mark the position of the rotor and washer and plastic seal located beneath the breaker plate.
distributor housing for easier reassembly. At the very bottom of the 16 Wipe all components clean with a solvent moistened cloth and
distributor, scribe a mark on the distributor base and another mark in examine them for wear, distortion and scoring. Replace parts as
line with the base mark on the engine block. Also note the direction in necessary. Pay particular attention to the rotor and distributor cap to
which the rotor contact is pointed. Make a mark on the distributor ensure that they are not cracked.
housing in-line with the rotor contact strip. 17 Fill the lubricating cavity in the housing with general purpose
4 Disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor. grease then fit a new plastic seal and felt washer.
5 Note the position of the vacuum advance mechanism (canister 18 Install the vacuum unit, the breaker plate in the housing and the
from which vacuum hose was just disconnected) relative to the engine. spring retainer on the upper bushing.
6 Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp from the base 19 Lubricate the cam weight base and slide it on the mainshaft;
of the distributor.
install the weights and springs.
7 Lift the distributor straight up and out of the engine. 20 Insert the mainshaft in the housing then fit the shims and drive-
8 Avoid rotating the engine with the distributor removed as the gear. Install a new roll-pin.
ignition timing will be changed. 21 Install the contact point set (Chapter 1).
9 To disassemble, remove the rotor (2 screws), the advance weight 22 Install the rotor, aligning the round and square pilot holes.
springs and the weights. Where applicable, also remove the radio 23 Install the distributor as described in Section 8.
frequency interference (RFI) shield.

COVER

COIL -

Fig. 5.2 Spark plug wire connections for 1977 Oldsmobile

350/403 (Sec 9). For other engines see Specifications section

B+ TERMINAL
CAP

BAT. TERMINAL
(CONNECTED TO
IGNITION SWITCH!
ROTOR

LATCH (4) VACUUM

UNIT
CONNECTOR'

CONNECT TACHOMETER HOUSING

FROM THIS TERMINAL
C-TERMINAL TO GROUND
TACH TERMINAL
WASHER
(SOME TACHOMETERS
MUST CONNECT FROM
THIS TERMINAL TO GEAR
ENERGIZER POSITIVE (+).
CONSULT TACHOMETER
MANUFACTURER.!. CONNECTOR

Fig. 5.3 Breakerless type distributor coil connections (Sec 9) Fig. 5.4 Components of the HEI breakerless distributor (Sec 10)
Measuring plug gap. A feeler gauge of the correct size (see Adjusting plug gap. The plug gap is adjusted by bending the
ignition system specifications) should have a slight 'drag' when ground electrode inwards, or outwards, as necessary until the
slid between the electrodes. Adjust gap if necessary correct clearance is obtained. Note the use of the correct tool

Normal. Gray brown deposits, lightly coated core nose. Gap Carbon fouling. Dry, black, sooty deposits. Will cause weak
increasing by around 0.001 in (0.025 mm) per 1000 miles spark and eventually misfire. Fault: over-rich fuel mixture.
(1600 km). Plugs ideally suited to engine, and engine in good Check: carburetor mixture settings, float level and jet sizes:
condition choke operation and cleanliness of air filter. Plugs can be re¬
used after cleaning

Oil fouling. Wet, oily deposits. Will cause weak spark and Overheating. Electrodes have glazed appearance, core nose
eventually misfire. Fault: worn bores/piston rings or valve very white - few deposits. Fault: plug overheating. Check: plug
guides: sometimes occurs (temporarily) during running-in value, ignition timing, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel
period. Plugs can be re-used after thorough cleaning mixture (too weak). Discard plugs and cure fault immediately

Split core nose (may appear initially as a crack). Damage is

Electrode damage. Electrodes burned away; core nose has
self-evident, but cracks will only show after cleaning. Fault: pre¬
burned, glazed appearance. Fault: pre-ignition. Check: as for
ignition or wrong gap-setting technique. Check: ignition timing,
Overheating' but may be more severe. Discard plugs and
cooling system, fuel octane rating (too low) and fuel mixture
remedy fault before piston or valve damage occurs
(too weak). Discard plugs, rectify fault immediately
 170 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

8 Distributor - installation (1974)

ADVANCE WEIGHT (2)

If engine was not rotated after removal

1 Turn the rotor about -5- turn in a clockwise direction past the mark
made on the distributor housing upon removal.
2 Lower the distributor down into the engine, positioning the
vacuum advance mechanism in the approximate position as removal.
To mesh the gears at the bottom of the distributor it may be necessary
to turn the rotor slightly.
3 With the base of the distributor all the way down against the
engine block, the rotor should be pointed to the mark made on the
distributor housing. If these two marks are not in alignment, repeat the
previous steps.
4 Now turn the distributor housing until the scribed marks at the
bottom of the distributor are in alignment.
5 Place the clamp into position and tighten the clamp bolt securely.
6 Connect the vacuum hose to the distributor and connect the
primary wire to the coil terminal.
7 Install the distributor cap.
8 Check the ignition timing as described in Chapter 1.

If engine was rotated after removal

9 Turn the crankshaft by applying a wrench to the crankshaft pulley
bolt at the front of the engine until the number 1 piston is at top-dead-
Fig. 5.5 Distributor centrifugal advance (Sec 10)
center (TDC). This can be ascertained by removing the number 1 spark
plug and feeling the compression being generated. If you are careful
not to scratch the cylinder, you can also use a length of stiff wire to
feel the piston come to the top of the cyinder.
3 Remove the 2 screws retaining the module. Move the module
10 With the number 1 piston at TDC (as indicated by the timing
aside and remove the connector from the B and 'C' terminals, (photo).
marks on the front cover), the distributor should be firing this cylinder.
4 Remove the connections from the 'W' and 'G' terminals.
11 Hold the distributor over its recess with the vacuum advance unit
5 Carefully drive out the roll pin from the drive gear (photo).
in its 'installed' position. It should be pointed towards the front of the
6 Remove the gear, shim and tanged washer from the distributor
right-hand cylinder head.
shaft.
12 Point the metal contact on the rotor towards the number 1
7 Ensure that the shaft is not burred, then remove it from the
cylinder and lower the distributor into place.
housing.
13 With the distributor fully seated to the engine (it may be necessary
8 Remove the washer from the upper end of the distributor housing.
to turn the rotor slightly to mesh the gears), the rotor contact should
9 Remove 3 screws and take out the pole-piece, magnet and pick¬
be in-line with the number 1 spark plug wire in the distributor cap. To
up coil (photo).
find out if this is true, temporarily install the cap to the distributor,
I 0 Remove the lock ring, then take out the pick-up coil retainer, shim
checking the rotor contact and the number 1 spark plug terminal.
and felt washer.
14 Install the clamp and the hold-down bolt at the bottom of the
II Remove the vacuum unit (2 screws).
engine. Leave the bolt loose enough to enable you to turn the
distributor. 12 Disconnect the capacitor lead and remove the capacitor (1 screw).
13 Disconnect the wiring harness from the distributor housing.
15 Start the engine and adjust the timing as described in Chapter 1.
14 Wipe all components clean with a solvent moistened cloth and
1 6 On 455 CID V8 engines, there is a punch mark on the drive gear
examine them for wear, distortion and other damage. Replace parts as
which represents the position of the contact end of the rotor. This
necessary.
enables the distributor to be installed with the cap in place.
15 To assemble, position the vacuum unit to the housing and secure
1 7 Once installed, turn the distributor until the contact points are just
with the 2 screws.
about to open and tighten the clamp bolt.
1 6 Position the felt washer over the lubricant reservoir at the top of
18 Tighten all connections and install the distributor cap.
the housing then position the shim on top of the felt washer.
19 Check and adjust the dwell angle and the timing as soon as the
17 Position the pick-up coil retainer to the housing. The vacuum
engine has been run to normal operating temperature.
advance arm goes over the actuating pin of the advance mechanism.
Secure it with the lock-ring.
9 Distributor - removal and installation (1975 through 1980) 18 Install the pick-up coil magnet and pole-piece. Loosely install the
3 screws to retain the pole-piece.
1 The procedures for removing and installing the breakerless dis¬ 19 Install the washer to the top of the housing. Install the distributor
tributor are basically the same as for the conventional unit described shaft then rotate it and check for equal clearance all round between
in Sections 7 and 8. Follow the sequence given in Sections 7 and 8 the shaft projections and pole-piece. Secure the pole-piece when
with the following exceptions: correctly positioned.
20 Install the tanged washer, shim and drivegear. Align the gear and
a) Disconnect the wiring connector on the outside of the
install a new roll pin.
distributor.
21 Loosely install the capacitor with one screw.
b) The spark plug wires are connected to a ring around the top
22 Install the connector to the 'B' and C' terminals on the module
of the distributor cap. This retaining ring can be removed once
with the tab at the top.
the latches are disengaged.
23 Apply silicone grease to the base of the module and secure it with
c) Ignore all references to the contact points and setting the
2 screws. This grease is essential to ensure good heat conduction.
dwell angle as this does not apply to the breakerless
24 Position the wiring harness with the grommet in the housing notch
distributor.
then connect the pink wire to the capacitor stud and the black wire to
d) Set the ignition timing after installation.
the capacitor mounting screw. Tighten the screw.
25 Connect the white wire from the pick-up coil to the module 'W'
10 Distributor (breakerless-type) — overhaul terminal and the green to the 'G' terminal.
26 Install the advance weights, weight retainer (dimple downwards),
1 Remove the distributor as previously described. and springs.
2 Remove the rotor (2 screws).
27 Install the rotor and secure with the 2 screws. Ensure that the
 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 171

10.3 The electronic module is secured to the 10.5 Use a hammer and a punch to drive out 10.9 The pole-piece and washer removed from
inside of the distributor with 2 screws the rollpin from the bottom of the distributor the upper end of the distributor body
shaft
notch on the side of the rotor engages with the tab on the cam weight 8 Always tighten a spark plug to the specified torque - no tighter.
base.
28 Install the distributor as previously described.
13 Charging system - general description

11 Ignition coil - removal and installation

The charging system is made up of the alternator, voltage
regulator and the battery. These components work together to supply
electrical power for the engine ignition, lights, radio, etc.
1974
The alternator is turned by a drive belt at the front of the engine.
1 This is a straightforward operation, requiring only the removal of
Thus, when the engine is operating, voltage is generated by the
the electrical connections and the two mounting screws. It is a good
internal components of the alternator to be sent to the battery for
policy to mark the connections before removal to ensure that they are
storage.
re-installed correctly.
The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator
voltage to a pre-set value. This prevents power surges, circuit
1975 on overloads, etc. during peak voltage output. Since 1974, Buick cars
2 Disconnect the battery wire and harness connector from the have had the voltage regulator built into the alternator housing.
distributor cap. The charging system does not ordinarily require periodic mainten¬
3 Remove the coil cover (3 screws) and the coil assembly (4 screws)
ance. The drive belts, electrical wiring and connections should,
from the distributor cap. however, be inspected during normal tune-ups (see Chapter 1).
4 Note the position of each wire, duly marking them if necessary.
Remove the coil ground wire then push the leads from the underside
14 Alternator - maintenance and special precautions
of the connectors. Remove the coil from the distributor cap.
5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but ensure
1 The alternator fitted to all models is a Delco-Remy Delcotron.
that the leads are connected to their original positions (photo).
2 Alternator maintenance consists of occasionally wiping away any
dirt or oil which may have collected.
12 Spark plugs
3 Check the tension of the driving belt (refer to Chapter 1, Section
41).
1 Properly functioning spark plugs are a necessity if the engine is to
4 No lubrication is required as alternator bearings are grease sealed
perform properly. At the intervals specified in Chapter 1 or your
for the life of the unit.
owner's manual, the spark plugs should be replaced with new ones.
5 Take extreme care when making circuit connections to a vehicle
Removal and installation information can be found in the Tune-up and
fitted with an alternator and observe the following. When making
Basic Maintenance Chapter. connections to the alternator from a battery always match correct
2 It is important to replace spark plugs with new ones of the same
polarity. Before using electric-arc welding equipment to repair any part
heat range and type. A series of numbers and letters are stamped on
of the vehicle, disconnect the connector from the alternator and
the spark plug to help identify each variation. disconnect the positive battery terminal. Never start the car with a
1 3 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too
battery charger connected. Always disconnect both battery leads
large or too small the size of the spark and its efficiency will be
before using a mains charger. If boosting from another battery, always
seriously impaired. To set it, measure the gap with a feeler gauge, and
connect in parallel using heavy cable. It is not recommended that
then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap
testing of an alternator should be undertaken at home due to the
is achieved. The center electrode should never be bent as this may
testing equipment required and the possibility of damage occurring
crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. during testing. It is best left to automotive electrical specialists.
4 The condition and appearance of the spark plugs will tell much
about the condition and tune of the engine. If the insulator nose of the
1 5 Alternator - removal and installation
spark plug is clean and white with no deposits, this is indicative of a
weak mixture, or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from
1 Disconnect both leads from the battery terminals.
the electrode slowly - a cold plug transfers it away quickly.
2 Disconnect the leads from the rear face of the alternator, marking
5 If the tip and insulator nose is covered with hard black looking
them first to ensure correct installation (photo).
deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the
3 Loosen the alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts, push the
plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn,as
unit in towards the engine as far as possible, and slip off the drivebelts
well as the mixture being too rich.
6 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown
(photos).
4 Remove the mounting bolts and lift the alternator from the engine
deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is
compartment.
in good condition. 5 Installation is a reversal of removal; however adjust the drivebelt
7 If there are any traces of long brown tapering stains on the outside
tension. Note: New alternators are not usually supplied with pulleys.
of the white portion of the plug, then the plug will have to be replaced
The old one should therefore be removed if a new unit is to be
with a new one, as this shows that there is a faulty joint between the purchased. To do this, hold the alternator shaft still with an Allen
plug body and the insulator, and compression is being allowed to leak
wrench while the pulley nut is unscrewed.
away.
172 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

1 1.5 Before installing a new coil, ensure that the center electrode is in 1 5.2 Disconnect the wiring from the rear side of the alternator
good condition

1 5.3a The long pivot bolt for the alternator is under the housing 15.3b The adjusting strap bolt is located inside a slotted bracket

6 If the meter reads the approximate voltage of the battery,

16 Alternator - testing disconnect the number 1 and 2 connector at the alternator. Connect
the voltmeter from the number 1 connector to ground. If zero voltage
Note: Due to the fine tolerances and critical nature of the alternator is registered, repair the open circuit in the number 1 connector wire
components, it is suggested that the home mechanic take it to a that runs from the connector to chassis ground.
rebuild shop if the following tests point to a defective unit. 7 If the voltmeter reads from 2 to 4 volts (approx), reinstall the
/ A malfunction in the charging circuit will manifest itself in one or number 1 and 2 connector wires and disconnect the wires from the
more of the following conditions: A faulty alternator dash lamp, an battery terminal on the alternator.
undercharged battery and an overcharged battery. 8 Now connect the ammeter black lead to the battery terminal wires
and the ammeter red lead to the battery terminal connection on the
Alternator indicator lamp — faulty operation alternator.
2 Turn on ignition. The indicator lamp should be on. Start the engine. 9 Reconnect the battery ground strap, turn on all accessories and
The lamp should go out. If it does, it is operating properly. Proceed to start the motor. Turn the headlights to high beam and make sure the
step 14. heater blower is also on "high". Record the ammeter reading.
3 If the lamp stays on, check the drive belt for proper tension and 10 If the output reading is within 10 amps of the rating stamped on
adjust as necessary. Redo the test. The indicator lamp should go out. the alternator frame (casing), check the battery connections and the
If it does, proceed to step 14. condition of the battery. A hydrometer can be used to check the
4 If the lamp is still lit, check the 10 amp "gauges" and "trans" fuse battery (see Sec 2).
in the fuse block. Replace if necessary. 11 If the meter reading is not within 10 amps of the stamped rating,
5 Next, connect a voltmeter to the battery terminal on the alternator insert a screwdriver into the test hole (located on the rear of the
and to chassis ground. Turn on the ignition. If the meter reads zero alternator). Be sure that the screwdriver touches the tab and the side
voltage, repair the open circuit between the battery terminal on the of the test hole. Note: Tab is within j-in of the casting surface. Do not
alternator and the battery or junction block. insert screwdriver deeper than 1-inch into frame or severe damage to
 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 173

alternator will result. If test hole is not accessible, take the alternator the number 2 wire. If the lamp remains off, either the bulb is burned
to a shop. Redo the previous test and note the reading. out or there is a short in the number 1 wire (between the alternator
1 2 If the reading is within 1 0 amps of the stamped rating, replace the and the ignition switch).
regulator subsection of the alternator. As mentioned previously, take 1 7 If the lamp came on when you disconnected the number 1 and 2
the unit to a professional. wires, reconnect them and insert a screwdriver into the test hole on
13 If the output is not within 10 amps of the rating, replace the the back of the alternator. Note the caution mentioned in step 11.
alternator. Again, it is best to have the unit professionally serviced. 18 If the lamp remains lit, the regulator section of the alternator is
14 Turn the ignition switch on. The engine should not be running for faulty and needs to be replaced. Take the unit to an automotive electric
this test. The dash lamp should be on. If it is, proceed to "under¬ shop.
charged battery". 19 If the lamp remains off, check the number 1 wire and make sure
15 If the lamp is dimly lit, check the condition, charge, and connec¬ it is making good contact on the terminal. If the lamp still remains off,
tions of the battery. Next check the "gauges" and "trans" fuse in the the alternator needs to be overhauled.
fuse block. Make sure the connections are firm and clean. 20 Turn off the ignition switch. The lamp should go out and you can
16 If the dash lamp is off, disconnect the number 1 and 2 connector proceed to "undercharged battery".
wires at the alternator. Ground the number 1 wire but do not ground 21 If the lamp did not go out, disconnect the number 1 and 2 wires

SWITCH

BATTERY

Fig. 5.6 Charging circuit used with Sl-type alternator (Sec 13)

GENERATOR NO. 2
TERMINAL
RELAY TERMINAL . "F” TERMINAL NO. 1
TERMINAL
’•BAT” "GRD” TERMINAL
TERMINAL “BAT”
TERMINAL

Fig. 5.8 Series 10 SI Delcotron alternator (Sec 14)

Fig. 5.7 Series ID Delcotron alternator (Sec 14)
174 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

at the alternator. If the lamp now goes out, the rectifier bridge in the 28 If the system checks out under the previous tests, check the
alternator is faulty and the unit should be professionally serviced. alternator. Disconnect the battery ground cable and introduce an
22 If the lamp remains on, there is a short circuit between the number ammeter into the circuit at the "BAT" terminal on the alternator.
1 and 2 connector wires. Reconnect the battery ground.
29 Turn on all accessories, connect an external resistor across the
Undercharged battery battery and operate the engine at medium speed. Adjust the resistor
23 Check to see that the low battery condition has not been caused for maximum output reading.
by leaving accessories or the ignition on. 30 Check the ammeter reading. If it is within 10 amps of the rating
24 Next, check the drive belt tension and adjust if necessary. See (stamped on the case of the alternator) the alternator is not defective.
Chapter 1 for this procedure. Recheck steps 23 through 27.
25 Using a hydrometer, check the specific gravity of the battery 31 If the output rating shown on the ammeter is not within 10 amps
electrolyte. of the stamped rating on the casing, insert a screwdriver into the test
26 Inspect the wiring for loose connections and open circuits. Make hole (re-read step 1 1 before doing this). If there is no test hole, take
sure that the slip connectors at the alternator are firewall are tight. the alternator to an automotive electric shop.
27 When all connections are tight and all harness leads connected, 32 Again, run the engine at a medium speed and adjust the external
attach a voltmeter from: 1) the alternator "BAT" terminal to ground: 2) resistor as necessary to obtain maximum output. Recheck the am¬
the alternator number 1 terminal to ground; 3) the alternator number meter reading. If the output is within 10 amps, it will be necessary to
2 terminal to ground. If the reading on the meter is zero, there is an have the field winding and the regulator checked. Take the unit to a
open circuit between the voltmeter and the battery. Generating qualified professional.
alternators have a built-in safety switch which prevents them from
operating when there is an open circuit in the harness connected to Overcharged battery
the number 2 terminal. Frequently, this open circuit will occur at the 33 Overcharging is typified by battery overboiling. As with the two
junction between harness and battery terminal. Check the crimp other test sections, battery condition must be ascertained, as outlined
between the terminal and harness wire. in Section 2, by testing the battery electrolyte with a hydrometer.

VIEW C

Fig. 5.9 Delcotron alternator installation: upper-small block V-8; lower-455 CID V8 (Sec 1 5)

j
 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 175

34 If the condition of the battery is found to be good, connect a

POINT OPENING voltmeter from the number 2 alternator terminal to ground. If the
meter is zero, the number 2 wire has an open circuit.
35 If the number 2 leads test out ok, it will be necessary to take the
unit to a shop and have the field winding tested for shorts.

17 Starting system - general description

The function of the starting system is to crank the engine. This

system is composed of a starting motor, solenoid and battery. The
battery supplies the electrical energy to the solenoid which then
completes the circuit to the starting motor which does the actual work
of cranking the engine.
The solenoid and starting motor are mounted together on a pad at
the side of the engine. No periodic lubrication or maintenance is
required to the starting system components.
The electrical circuitry of the vehicle is arranged so that the starter
motor can only be operated when the clutch pedal is fully depressed
(manual transmission) or the transmission selector lever is at 'P' or 'N'
(automatic transmission).

18 Starter motor - testing in vehicle

1 If the starter motor does not rotate at all when the switch is
Fig. 5.10 Checking field relay point opening (Sec 17) operated, check that the speed selector lever is in 'N' or 'P' (automatic
transmission) and that the front seat belts are connected (starter
AIR GAP interlock system) and also that the clutch pedal is depressed (where
(Check With Points applicable).
Just Touching) 2 Check that the battery is well charged and all cables, both at the
battery and starter solenoid terminals, are secure.
3 If the motor can be heard spinning but the engine is not being
cranked, then the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping
and the assembly must be removed from the engine and dismantled.
4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor does not operate
at all but the solenoid plunger can be heard to move with a loud click’
then the fault lies in the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor
itself.
5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to move when the switch
is actuated then the solenoid itself is defective or the solenoid circuit
is open.
6 To check out the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the
battery ( + ) terminal and the terminal on the solenoid to which the
purple cable is attached. If the starter motor now operates, the
solenoid is OK and the fault must lie in the ignition or neutral start
switches or in their interconnecting wiring.
7 If the starter motor still does not operate, remove the
starter/solenoid assembly for dismantling, testing and repair.
8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow
speed, first ensure that the battery is fully charged and all terminal
Fig. 5.11 Checking field relay air gap (Sec 17)
connections are tight, also that the engine oil is not too thick a grade
and that the resistance is not due to a mechanical fault within the
power unit.
9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is attained,
shut it off and disconnect the coil to distributor LT wire or ’BAT’
connection on HEI distributors so that the engine will not fire during
cranking.
10 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the starter motor terminal of
the solenoid and then connect the negative lead to ground.
11 Actuate the ignition switch and take the voltmeter readings as
soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to
turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts, or more,
with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed proves it to be
in good condition. If the reading is 9 volts, or more, but the cranking
speed is slow, then the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9
volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are
probably at fault and should be replaced as described later in this
Chapter.

19 Starter motor - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.

2 Raise the vehicle to a satisfactory working height.
3 Disconnect the leads at the starter solenoid marking each with a
coded piece of tape for easy identification upon reassembly. Tem¬
porarily replace each of the securing nuts to the terminals as they have
176 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

various thread types which could cause damage to the studs if not service station who will have the necessary pressure driver.
properly re-installed. 1 1 Clean all components and replace any obviously worn compo¬
4 Loosen the starter motor front bracket nut and then remove the nents.
two mount bolts. 12 Note: On no account attempt to undercut the insulation between
5 Remove the front bracket bolt, rotate the bracket so that the the commutator segments on starter motors having the molded type
starter motor can be withdrawn by lowering its front end. commutators. On commutators of conventional type, the insulation
6 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten the mount bolts should be undercut (below the level of the segments) by 1/32 inch.
first to the specified torque and then tighten the front bracket bolt and Use an old hacksaw blade to do this and make sure that the undercut
nut. is the full width of the insulation and the groove is quite square at the
7 Install each of the wires to the solenoid terminals using your bottom. When the undercutting is completed, brush away all dirt and
identification coding. dust.
1 3 Clean the commutator by spinning it while a piece of number '00'
20 Starter motor - dismantling and component testing sandpaper is wrapped round it. On no account use any other type of
abrasive material for this work.
Note: Due to the critical nature of the disassembly and testing of the 14 If necessary, because the commutator is in such bad shape, it may
starter motor it may be advisable for the home mechanic to simply be turned down in a lathe to provide a new surface. Make sure to
purchase a new or factory-rebuilt unit. If it is decided to overhaul the undercut the insulation when the turning is completed.
starter, check on the availability of replacement components before 15 To test the armature for ground: use a lamp-type circuit tester.
proceeding. Place one lead on the armature core or shaft and the other on a
1 Disconnect the starter motor field coil connectors from the segment of the commutator. If the lamp lights then the armature is
solenoid terminals. grounded and must be replaced.
2 Unscrew and remove the through bolts. 1 6 To test the field coils for open circuit: place one test probe on the
3 Remove the commutator end-frame, field frame assembly and the insulated brush and the other on the field connector bar. If the lamp
armature from the drive housing. does not light, the coils are open and must be replaced.
4 Slide the two-section thrust collar off the end of the armature 17 To test the field coils for ground: place one test probe on the
shaft and then using a piece of suitable tube drive the stop/retainer up connector bar and the other on the grounded brush. If the lamp lights
the armature shaft to expose the snap-ring. then the field coils are grounded.
5 Extract the snap-ring from its shaft groove and then slide the 18 The overrunning clutch cannot be repaired and if faulty, it must be
stop/retainer and overrunning clutch assembly from the armature replaced as a complete assembly.
shaft.
6 Dismantle the brush components from the field frame. 21 Starter motor - reassembly and adjustment
7 Release the V-shaped springs from the brushholder supports.
S Remove the brushholder support pin and then lift the complete 1 Install the brush assembly to the field frame as follows:
brush assembly upwards. 2 Install the brushes to their holders.
9 Disconnect the leads from the brushes if they are worn down to 3 Assemble the insulated and grounded brushholders together with
half their original length and they are to be replaced. the V-spring and then locate the unit on its support pin.
10 The starter motor is now completely dismantled except for the 4 Push the holders and spring to the bottom of the support and then
field coils. If these are found to be defective during the tests described rotate the spring to engage the V in the support slot.
later in this Section removal of the pole shoe screws is best left to a 5 Connect the ground wire to the grounded brush and the field lead

CONTACT SOLENOID
FINGER PLUNGER RETURN SPRING

SHIFT
LEVER

INION
STOP
\ OVERRUNNING
BRUSH
INSULATED BRUSH HOLDER \ FIELD COIL ASSIST CLUTCH
BRUSH SPRING ARMATURE SPRING

GROUNDED BRUSH HOLDER

Fig. 5.13 Cross section of a typical starter motor (Sec 21)

 Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 177

oil; place the leather brake washer on the armature shaft and then
slide the commutator end-frame onto the shaft.
SOLENOID
BODY TO HOLD-IN 1 6 Reconnect the field coil connectors to the MOTOR terminal of the
solenoid.
17 Now check the pinion clearance. To do this, connect a 6 volt
battery between the solenoid S terminal and ground and at the same
time fix a heavy connecting cable between the MOTOR terminal and
ground (to prevent any possibility of the starter motor rotating). As the
solenoid is energized it will push the pinion forward into its normal
cranking position and retain it there. With the fingers, push the pinion
away from the stop/retainer in order to eliminate any slack and then
check the clearance between the face of the pinion and the face of
stop/retainer using a feeler gauge. The clearance should be between
0.01 0 and 0.140 inch to ensure correct engagement of the pinion with
the flywheel (or driveplate - automatic transmission) ring-gear. If the
clearance is incorrect, the starter will have to be dismantled again and
any worn or distorted components replaced, no adjustment being
provided for.

Fig. 5.14 Exploded view of starter motor solenoid (Sec 23) 22 Starter motor solenoid - removal, repair and installation

1 After removing the starter/solenoid unit as described in Section 20

wire to the insulated brush. disconnect the connector strap from the solenoid MOTOR terminal.
6 Repeat the operations for the second set of brushes. 2 Remove the two screws which secure the solenoid housing to the
7 Smear silicone oil onto the drive end of the armature shaft and end-frame assembly.
then slide the clutch assembly (pinion to the front) onto the shaft. 3 Twist the solenoid in a clockwise direction to disengage the flange
8 Slide the pinion stop/retainer onto the shaft so that its open end key and then withdraw the solenoid.
is facing away from the pinion. 4 Remove the nuts and washers from the solenoid terminals and
9 Stand the armature vertically on a piece of wood and then position then unscrew the two solenoid end-cover retaining screws and
the snap-ring on the end of the shaft. Using a hammer and a piece of washers and pull off the end-cover.
hardwood, drive the snap-ring onto the shaft. 5 Unscrew the nut washer from the battery terminal on the end-
10 Slide the snap-ring down the shaft until it drops into its groove. cover and remove the terminal.
1 1 Install the thrust collar on the shaft so that the shoulder is next to 6 Remove the resistor bypass terminal and contactor.
the snap-ring. Using two pairs of pliers, squeeze the thrust collar and 7 Remove the motor connector strap terminal and solder a new
stop/retainer together until the snap-ring fully enters the retainer. terminal in position.
12 Lubricate the drive housing bushing with silicone oil and after 8 Use a new battery terminal and install it to the end-cover. Install
ensuring that the thrust collar is in position against the snap-ring, slide the bypass terminal and contactor.
the armature and clutch assembly into the drive housing so that at the 9 Install the end-cover and the remaining terminal nuts.
same time, the shift lever engages with the clutch. 1 0 Install the solenoid to the starter motor by first checking that the
13 Position the field frame over the armature and apply sealing return spring is in position on the plunger and then insert the solenoid
compound between the frame and the solenoid case. body into the drive housing and turn the body counter clockwise to
14 Position the field frame against the drive housing taking care not engage the flange key.
to damage the brushes. 1 1 Install the two solenoid securing screws and connect the MOTOR
1 5 Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end-frame using silicone connector strap.
Chapter 6 Emissions systems
Contents

Air injection reactor (AIR) system. 3 General information. 1

Catalytic converter. 8 Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. 2
Computer command control system (C4). 9 Transmission controlled vacuum spark advance (TCS) system
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. 7 (1978 through 1980). 4
Forced air pre-heat system. 5 Troubleshooting - emission systems. 10
Fuel evaporation system. 6

Specifications

Torque specifications ft-lbs in-lbs

Diverter valve-to-air pump .. 90
Air pump mounting bolts .... 20 to 35
Air pump pulley bolts. 24
Exhaust manifold
(inner bolts). 20
(outer bolts). 30
Actuator mounting bolts. 25
Thermal vacuum switches .. 15
Catalytic converter fill plug . 28

through the carburetor or intake manifold to be reburned by the

engine.
1 General information
2 The main components of this simple system are vacuum hoses
and a PCV valve which regulate the flow of gases according to engine
1 Despite the general bad feelings towards emission controls, they speed and manifold vacuum.
play a necessary and integral role in the overall operation of the
internal combustion engine. Your car is designed to operate with its
Positive crankcase ventilation system - checking
pollution control systems, and disconnecting them or failing to
3 The PCV system can be checked for proper operation quickly and
properly maintain the components is illegal, not to mention being
potentially harmful to the engine. easily. This system should be checked regularly as carbon and gunk
deposited by the blow-by gases will eventually clog the PCV valve
2 Through the years as smog standards became more stringent,
and/or system hoses. When the flow of the PCV system is reduced or
emission control systems have become more diverse and complex.
stopped, common symptoms are rough idling or a reduced engine
Where once the anti-pollution devices incorporated were installed as
speed at idle.
peripheral components to the main engine, later model engines work
4 To check for proper vacuum in the system, remove the top plate
closely with, and in some cases are even controlled by, the emission
of the air cleaner and locate the small PCV filter on the inside of the
control systems. Nearly every system in the make-up of a modern-day
air cleaner housing.
automobile is affected in some fashion by the emission systems.
5 Disconnect the hose leading to this filter. Be careful not to break
3 This is not to say that the emission systems are particularly
the moulded fitting on the filter.
difficult for the home mechanic to maintain and service. You can
6 With the engine idling, place your thumb lightly over the end of the
perform general operational checks, and do most (if not all) of the
hose. Leave it there for about 30 seconds. You should feel a slight pull
regular maintenance easily and quickly at home with common tune-up
and hand tools. or vacuum (photo). The suction may be heard as your thumb is
released. This will indicate that air is beong drawn all the way through
4 While the end result from the various emission systems is to
the system. If a vacuum is felt, the system is functioning properly.
reduce the output of pollutants into the air, (namely hydrocarbons
Check that the filter inside the air cleaner housing is not clogged or
[HC], carbon Monoxide [CO], and oxides of Nitrogen [NOx]) the various
systems function independently toward this goal. This is the way in dirty. If in doubt, replace the filter with a new one, which is an
inexpensive safeguard.
which this chapter is divided.
7 If there is very little vacuum, or none at all, at the end of the hose,
the system is clogged and must be inspected further.
8 Shut off the engine and locate the PCV valve. Carefully pull it from
2 Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system
its rubber grommet. Shake it and listen for a clicking sound. If the valve
does not click freely, replace the valve with a new one.
General description 9 Now start the engine and run it at idle speed with the PCV valve
1 The positive crankcase ventilation, or PCV as it is more commonly removed. Place your thumb over the end of the valve and feel for a
called, reduces hydrocarbon emissions by circulating fresh air through suction (photo). This should be relatively strong vacuum which will be
the crankcase to pick up blow-by gases which are then re-routed felt immediately.
I

Fig. 6.2 PCV system operation (Sec 2)

Fig. 6.3 Typical Air Injection Reactor (AIR) system (Sec 3)

2.6 Checking for vacuum in the PCV hose where it connects to the air 2.9 Checking for vacuum in the line at the PCV valve
cleaner

3.7 With the hose disconnected from the check valve, air should be felt 3.1 0 A small diameter hose leads to the diverter valve. This is the
with the engine running vacuum signal hose to be disconnected during testing

3.29 A slightly different type of diverter valve shown here with the air 3.36 The air delivery manifold has threaded fittings in the exhaust
delivery hoses and vacuum hose disconnected manifold. Shown is a flare nut wrench which wraps around the fitting
to prevent rounding off the flats
 Chapter 6 Emissions systems 181

10 If little or no vacuum is felt at the PCV valve, turn off the engine 9 Being careful not to touch any of the moving engine components,
and disconnect the vacuum hose from the other end of the valve. Run place your hand near the muffler outlet holes and check that no air is
the engine at idle speed and check for vacuum at the end of the hose escaping with the engine at idle speed. Now have an assistant depress
just disconnected. No vacuum at this point indicates that the vacuum the accelerator pedal to accelerate the engine and then quickly let off
hose or inlet fitting at the engine is plugged. If it is the hose which is the pedal. A momentary blast of air should be felt discharging through
blocked, replace it with a new one or remove it from the engine and the diverter valve muffler. The vacuum differential valve on the V6
blow it out sufficiently with compressed air. A clogged passage at the (located on top of the bypass valve) is checked in the same way as a
carburetor or manifold requires that the component be removed and diverter valve. The bypass valve is checked by disconnecting and
thoroughly cleaned or carbon build-up. A strong vacuum felt going into blocking the vacuum source. This should produce a continuous blast of
the PCV valve, but little or no vacuum coming out of the valve, air.
indicates a failure of the PCV valve requiring replacement with a new 10 If no air discharge was felt, disconnect the smaller vacuum hose
one. at the diverter valve (photo). Place your finger over the end of the hose
1 1 When purchasing a new PCV valve make sure it is the proper one. and again have your assistant depress the accelerator and let it off. As
Each PCV valve is metered for specific engine sizes and model years. the engine is decelerating, a vacuum should be felt. If vacuum was felt,
An incorrect PCV valve may pull too much or too little vacuum, replace the diverter valve with a new one. If no vacuum was felt, the
possibly causing damage to the engine.
12 Information on removing and installing the PCV valve can be
found in Chapter 1.
COMBUSTION PIPE ASSEMBLY

3 Air injection reactor (AIR) system

General description
1 The function of the air injection reactor system is to reduce
hydrocarbons in the exhaust. This is done by pumping fresh air directly
into the exhaust manifold ports of each engine cylinder. The fresh
oxygen-rich air helps combust the unburned hydrocarbons before they
are expelled as exhaust.
2 This system operates at all engine speeds and will bypass air only
for a short time during deceleration and at high speeds. In these cases
the additional fresh air added to the over-rich fuel/air mixture may
cause backfiring or popping through the exhaust.
3 This system as it is used on GM engines consists of; the air
injection pump (with supporting brackets and drivebelt) at the front of
the engine, an air diverter valve attached to the pump housing, the
manifold and injection tubes running into each port at the exhaust
manifolds, and a check valve for each hose leading from the pump to
the injection tubes on either side of the engine. Instead of a diverter
valve, the V6 engine uses a bypass valve in conjunction with a vacuum
differential valve. On the V6, fresh air is pumped into the rear of the
manifold and then to the exhaust ports of the cylinders.

Air injection reactor system - checking

4 Properly installed and adjusted air injection systems are fairly
reliable and seldom cause problems. However, a malfunctioning
system can cause engine surge, backfiring and over-heated spark
plugs. The air pump is the most critical component of this system and Fig. 6.4 AIR system operation during normal driving (Sec 3)
the belt at the front of the engine which drives the pump should be
your first check. If the belt is cracked or frayed, replace it with a new
one. Check the tension of the drive belt by pressing it with your finger. COMBUSTION PIPE ASSEMBLY
There should be about ^ inch of play in the belt when pushed half-way
between the pulleys.
5 The adjusting or replacement procedures for the drivebelt depend
on the mounting of the air pump. On some models, a single belt is
used for both the air pump and the alternator. If this is the case, loosen
the mounting bolt and the adjusting bolt for the alternator and then
push against the alternator to tighten the belt. Hold in this position
while the two bolts are tightened. The procedure is basically the same
for air pumps which use their own belt, except it will be the air pump
which will be loosened.
6 To check for proper air delivery from the pump, follow the hoses
from the pump to where they meet the injection tube/manifold
assembly on each side of the engine. Loosen the clamps and
disconnect the hoses.
7 Start the engine and with your fingers or a piece of paper, check
that air is flowing out of these hoses (photo). Accelerate the engine
and observe the air flow, which should increase in relation to engine
speed. If this is the case, the pump is working satisfactorily. If air flow
was not present, or did not increase, check for crimps in the hoses,
proper drivebelt tension, and for a leaking diverter valve which can be
heard with the pump operating.
8 To check the diverter valve, sometimes called the 'gulp' valve or
anti-backfire valve, make sure all hoses are connected and start the
engine. Locate the muffler on the valve which is a canister unit with
holes in it. The V6 bypass valve closely resembles a diverter valve. The Fig. 6.5 AIR system operating during deceleration and high engine
vacuum differential valve is located on top of the bypass valve. vacuum (Sec 3)
182 Chapter 6 Emissions systems

3.38 An exhaust manifold, injection tubes fitted inside the ports and 3.44 Two wrenches should be used to loosen the check valve from the
the air delivery manifold manifold

vacuum hose or engine vacuum source is plugged, requiring a

CARBURETOR
thorough cleaning to eliminate the problem.
11 To check valves are located on the air manifold assembly and their
function is to prevent exhaust gases from flowing back into the air
pump. To find out if they are functioning properly, disconnect the two
air supply hoses where they attach to the check valves. Start the
engine, and being careful not to touch any moving engine components,
place your hand over the outlet of the check valve. No exhaust should
flow out of the check valve. The valve can be further checked by
turning off the engine, allowing it to cool, and orally blowing through
the check valve (toward the air manifold). Then attempt to suck back
through it. If the valve is allowing you to suck back towards the air
pump, it is bad and should be replaced.
12 Another check for this system is for leaks in the hose connection
and/or hoses themselves. Leaks can often be detected by sound or feel
with the pump in operation. If a leak is suspected, use a soapy water
solution to verify this. Pour or sponge the solution of detergent and
water on the hoses and connections. With the pump running, bubbles
will form if a leak exists. The air delivery hoses are of a special design
to withstand engine temperatures, so if they are replaced make sure
the new hoses are of the proper standards.

Air pump - removal and installation

13 As mentioned earlier, some air pumps share a common drivebelt
with the alternator where others use their own belt. This will affect the
removal and installation procedure somewhat.
14 Disconnect the air delivery hoses at the air pump. Note the
position of each hose for reassembly.
1 5 Disconnect the vacuum source hose at the diverter valve.
16 Compress the drivebelt to keep the air pump pulley from turning,
and remove the bolts and washers securing the pulley to the pump.
17 To get some slack in the belt, loosen the alternator adjusting bolt
and the pivot bolt. Push the alternator inward until the belt and air
pump pulley can be removed from the pump.
18 Remove the bolts which secure the air pump to its brackets and
then lift the pump and diverter valve assembly from the engine
compartment.
19 If the diverter valve is to be installed onto the new air pump,
remove the bolts securing it to the pump and separate the two
components.
20 Check the pump for evidence that exhaust gas has entered it,
indicating a failure of one or both the check valves.
21 Install the diverter valve to the new air pump using a new gasket.
Torque the attaching bolts to specifications.
22 Install the air pump to its engine mounting brackets with the
attaching bolts loose. The exception to this is on models where the
mounting bolts are inaccessible with the pulley installed. In this case,
Fig. 6.6 TCS valve and hoses (Sec 4) the pump mounting bolts should be fully tightened to specifications at
this point.
 Chapter 6 Emissions systems 183

23 Install the pump pulley with the bolts only hand tight. each of the connectors is sufficiently started, tighten each securely.
24 Place the drive belt into position on the air pump pulley and adjust 41 Connect the air supply hoses to the check valves.
the belt by gently prying on the alternator until about | inch of play is 42 Start the engine and check for leaks as previously described.
felt in the belt when pushed with your fingers half-way between the
pulleys. Tighten the alternator bolts, keeping the belt tension at this Check valve - removal and installation
point.
43 Disconnect the air supply hose at the check valve.
25 Keep the pump pulley from turning by compressing the drive belt
44 Using two wrenches on the flats provided, remove the check valve
and torque the pulley bolts to specifications.
from the air manifold assembly (photo). Be careful not to bend or twist
26 Connect the hoses to the air pump and diverter valve. Make sure
the delicate manifold or injection tubes as this is done.
the connections are tight.
45 Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.
27 Tighten the mounting bolts for the pump to specifications.
28 Check the operation of the air pump as outlined previously.

Diverter valve - removal and installation 4 Transmission controlled vacuum spark advance (TCS) system
29 Disconnect the vacuum signal line and air delivery hoses at the
diverter valve. Note the position of each for assembly (photo). General description
30 Remove the bolts which secure the valve to the air pump and 1 Designed to eliminate the vacuum advance (at the distributor)
remove the diverter valve from the engine compartment. under certain driving conditions, the Transmission Controlled Spark
31 When purchasing a new diverter or bypass valve, keep in mind (TCS) System is installed only on vehicles equipped with a manual
that although many of the valves are similar in appearance, each is transmission. The system is also known as a Combination Emission
designed to meet particular requirements of various engines. There¬ Control (CEC) system.
fore, be sure to install the correct valve. 2 It consists of a vacuum advance solenoid (located in the vacuum
32 Install the new diverter valve to the air pump or pump extension hose to the distributor), a mechanically operated switch (through the
with a new gasket. Torque the securing bolts to specification. shift linkage) and an electrical harness (connecting the other two
33 Connect the air delivery and vacuum source hoses and check the units).
operation of the valve as outlined previously. 3 Normally, the solenoid valve is open, however, it closes off
vacuum when electricity flows through the solenoid. A vent directs
Air manifold and injection tubes - removal and vacuum from the hose to the distributor advance unit when the valve
installation is closed.
34 Due to the high temperatures at this area, the connections at the 4 The mechanical switch is usually closed but it opens to stop
exhaust manifold may be difficult to loosen. Commercial penetrating electricity flow to ground when the transmission is shifted to 3rd gear
oil applied to the threads of the injection tubes may help in the removal on 3-speed transmissions, 4th gear on 4-speed units, and 4th or 5th
procedure. gears on 5-speed transmissions. In other words, once the car is
35 Disconnect the air delivery hoses at the manifold check valves. moving, there will be no vacuum advance until it is in top gear.
36 Loosen the threaded connectors on the exhaust manifold at each
exhaust port (photo). Slide the connectors upwards on the injection Transmission Controlled Vacuum Spark Advance -

tubes so the threads are out of the exhaust manifold. checking

37 Pull the injection tube/air manifold assembly from the engine 5 A malfunctioning TCS system will have either continuous vacuum
exhaust manifold and out of the engine compartment. Depending on advance (which will result in the automobile not meeting Federal
the model year, injection tube extensions leading inside the engine emission standards) or, no vacuum advance (which will result in poor
may come out with the assembly. fuel economy). Check the TCS system as follows:
38 On models where the extension tubes remain inside the exhaust 6 Raise up the car and put jackstands under the rear axle. Make sure
manifold, they must be pressed out after the exhaust manifold is that both rear wheels clear the ground. Block the front wheels, then
removed from the engine (photo). start the engine and put the transmission in neutral.
39 If the exhaust manifold was removed from the engine to clean or 7 Attach a vacuum gauge to the vacuum advance line at the
replace the extensions, reinstall the manifold with extensions to the distributor and position it so that it can be seen from the driver's
engine using a new gasket. Torque to the proper specifications. position. Increase accelerator pressure until the engine speed is 1000
40 Thread each of the injection tube connectors loosely into the rpm. The vacuum gauge should have a reading of zero.
exhaust manifold, using an anti-seize compound on the threads. After 8 Shift the 3-speed manual into 3rd, the 4-speed manual into 4th,

4.1 7 The idle solenoid is located on the left side of the carburetor and 4.1 8 The solenoid has a bolt at one end which contacts the throttle
has an electrical connector attached linkage (adjusting this bolt changes the engine idle speed)
184 Chapter 6 Emissions systems

and the 5-speed manual into 4th or 5th gear. Check the vacuum gauge warm exhaust gases (which are then used to pre-heat the carburetor
reading. It should register a vacuum. If there is no vacuum reading and choke).
proceed to the following: 3 It is during the first few miles of driving (depending on outside
9 Connect a test lamp (using a GM 1893 bulb or equivalent) temperature) when this system has its greatest effect on engine
between the two terminals of the TCS solenoid. Shift the transmission performance and emissions output. Once the engine has reached
into top gear. The test lamp should be off. normal operating temperature, the flapper valves in the exhaust pipe
10 If the lamp is on, check for a grounded wire between the and air cleaner open, allowing for normal engine operation.
transmission and the solenoid connection. If the wire is not shorted, 4 Because of this cold-engine only function, it is important to
replace the transmission switch. periodically check this system to prevent poor engine performance
1 1 Now shift the transmission into the neutral position. The lamp when cold, or over-heating of the fuel mixture once the engine has
should come on. If the lamp does not light, check for an open circuit. reached operating temperatures. If either the exhaust heat valve or air
Replace the transmission switch is the circuit is not open. cleaner valve sticks in the 'no heat' position, the engine will run poorly,
12 If steps 10 and 1 1 check out properly and there is still no vacuum stall and waste gas until it has warmed up on its own. A valve sticking
as required in step 8, replace the TCS solenoid. in the 'heat' position causes the engine to run as if it is out of tune due
to the constant flow of hot air to the carburetor.
5 The components which make up this system include: a heat valve
5 Forced air pre-heat system inside the exhaust pipe on the right side of the engine (called a heat
riser on 1974 models), an actuator and thermal vacuum switch (on
1975 through 1980 models to control the heat valve) and a
General description thermostatic air cleaner consisting of a temperature sensor, vacuum
1 While coming under different names, the end result from this diaphragm and heat stove (all models 1974 through 1980). Initial
system is the same - to improve engine efficiency and reduce checking procedures can be found in Chapter 1.
hydrocarbon emissions during the initial warm-up period of the car.
2 There are two different methods used to achieve this goal. First, a Forced air pre-heat system - checking
thermostatic air cleaner (Thermae) is used to draw warm air from the 6 The conventional heat riser, installed on cars built up until 1975,
exhaust manifold directly into the carburetor. Second, some form of should be checked often for free operation. Because of the high
exhaust valve is incorporated inside the exhaust pipe to recirculate exhaust temperatures and its location (which is open to the elements),

POWER ACTUATOR

LEFT

ACTUATOR
E.F.E.

A Chevrolet C Buick V8
B Pontiac D Buick V6
 Chapter 6 Emissions systems 185

corrosion frequently keeps the valve from operating freely.

7 To check the heat riser operation, locate it on the exhaust manifold
(it can be identified by an external weight and spring) and with the
OUTSIDE AIR engine cold, try moving the counter-weight. The valve should move
freely (with no binding). Now have an assistant start the engine (still
cold) while the counter-weight is observed. The valve should move to
the closed position and then slowly open as the engine warms.
8 A stuck or binding heat riser valve often can be loosened by
soaking the valve shaft with solvent as the counter-weight is moved
back and forth. Light taps with a hammer may be necessary to free a
tightly stuck valve. If this proves unsuccessful, the heat riser must be
replaced with a new one after disconnecting it from the exhaust pipe.
9 In 1975, General Motors introduced a replacement for the heat
riser which they called the Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) System. This
system provides the same function, but uses manifold vacuum to open
and close the heat valve.
10 To check this system, locate the actuator and rod assembly which
is on a bracket attached to the right (left on V6) exhaust manifold. With
the engine cold, have an assistant start the engine. Observe the
movement of the actuator rod which leads to the heat valve inside the
exhaust pipe. It should immediately operate the valve to the closed
position. If this is the case, the system is operating corrrectly.
1 1 If the actuator rod did not move, disconnect the vacuum hose at
the actuator and place your thumb over the open end (photo). With the
engine cold and at idle, you should feel a suction at the hose end. If
there is vacuum at this point, replace the actuator with a new one.
12 If there is no vacuum in the line, this is an indication that either the
hose is crimped or plugged, or the thermal vacuum switch (threaded
into the water outlet) is not functioning properly. Replace the hose or
switch as necessary.
13 To make sure the EFE system is disengaging once the engine has
warmed, continue to observe the actuating rod as the engine reaches
normal operating temperature (approximately 180 degrees depending
on engine size). The rod should again move, indicating the valve is in
the open position.
14 If after the engine has warmed, the valve does not open, pull the
vacuum hose at the actuator and check for vacuum with your thumb.
If there is no vacuum, replace the actuator. If there is vacuum, replace
the TVS switch on the water outlet housing.

Fig. 6.8 Components and operation of Thermae assembly. Cold Thermae assembly - checking
engine at top, warmed engine bottom (Sec 5) 1 5 The thermostatic air cleaner components can be quickly and easily
checked for proper operation. Routine checking procedures and
illustrations can be found in Chapter 1.
1 6 With the engine off, observe the damper door inside the air cleaner
snorkel. If this is difficult because of positioning on V8 engines, use a
mirror. The valve should be open, meaning that in this position all air

DRILL 7/64" HOLE

IN CENTER POSITION
OF STRAP

VACUUM

INSTALL REPLACEMENT
RETAINING SENSOR ASSM. IN SAME
STRAP POSITION AS ORIGINAL ASSM.

Fig. 6.10 Thermae vacuum diaphragm and sensor replacement

Fig. 6.9 Hoses and mountings of Thermae assembly (Sec 5) (Sec 5)
186 Chapter 6 Emissions systems

TVS switch. Be careful that none of the sealant gets on the sensor end
of the switch.
32 Install the switch and tighten to specifications.
33 Connect the vacuum hoses to the switch in their original positions
and add coolant as necessary.

Air cleaner vacuum motor — replacement

34 Remove the air cleaner assembly from the engine and disconnect
the vacuum hose from the motor.
35 Drill out the two spot welds which secure the vacuum motor
retaining strap to the snorkel tube.
36 Remove the motor attaching strap.
37 Lift up the motor, cocking it to one side to unhook the motor
linkage at the control damper assembly.
38 To install, drill a 7/64 inch hole in the snorkel tube at the center
of the retaining strap.
39 Insert the vacuum motor linkage into the control damper as¬
sembly.
40 Using the sheet metal screw supplied with the motor service kit,
attach the motor and retaining strap to the snorkel. Make sure the
sheet metal screw does not interfere with the operation of the damper
door.
5.1 1 Checking for vacuum at the hose which leads to the actuator
41 Connect the vacuum hose to the motor and install the air cleaner
assembly.

Air cleaner temperature sensor - replacement

42 Remove the air cleaner from the engine and disconnect the
would flow through the snorkel and none through the exhaust vacuum hoses at the sensor.
manifold hot-air duct at the underside of the air cleaner housing. 43 Carefully note the position of the sensor. The new sensor must be
Thermal sensors on V6's have a check valve which keeps the damper installed in exactly the same position.
door closed when the air cleaner is cold and the engine is off. 44 Pry up the tabs on the sensor retaining clip and remove the sensor
17 Now have an assistant start the engine and continue to observe and clip from the air cleaner.
the flapper door inside the snorkel. With the engine cold and at idle the 45 Install the new sensor with a new gasket in the same position as
damper door should close off all air from the snorkel allowing heated the old one.
air from the exhaust manifold to enter the air cleaner as intake. As the 46 Press the retaining clip on the sensor. Do not damage the control
engine warms to operating temperature the damper door should move, mechanism in the center of the sensor.
allowing outside air through the snorkel to be included in the mixture. 47 Connect the vacuum hoses and install the air cleaner to the
Eventually, the door should recede to the point where most of the engine.
incoming air is through the snorkel and not the exhaust manifold
passage.
18 If the damper door did not close off snorkel air when the cold
engine was first started, disconnect the vacuum hose at the snorkel
6 Fuel evaporation system
vacuum motor and place your thumb over the hose end, checking for
vacuum. If there is vacuum going to the motor, check that the damper
door and link are not frozen or binding within the air cleaner snorkel.
General description
Replace the vacuum motor if the hose routing is correct and the
damper door moves freely. 1 Although the evaporative control system is one of the most
19 If there was no vacuum going to the motor in the above test, complex looking, it is in actuality one of the most basic and trouble-
check the hoses for cracks, crimps or disconnections. If the hoses are free portions of the emissions network. Its function is to reduce
clear and in good condition, replace the temperature sensor inside the hydrocarbon emissions. Basically, this is a closed fuel system which
air cleaner housing. reroutes wasted fuel back to the gas tank and stores fuel vapors
instead of venting them to the atmosphere.
2 Due to its very nature of having few moving parts, the evaporative
Actuator and rod assembly — replacement
control system requires no periodic maintenance except for a replace¬
20 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator.
ment of the oiled fiberglass filter in the bottom of the charcoal canister
21 Remove the two nuts which attach the actuator to the bracket.
at the recommended intervals.
22 Disconnect the rod from the heat valve and remove the actuator
3 A tip-off that this system is not operating properly is the strong
and rod from the engine compartment.
smell of fuel vapors or if the engine starves from lack of fuel during
23 Install the actuator and rod in the reverse order, tightening the acceleration.
attaching nuts to specifications.
4 A pressure vacuum gasoline filler cap must be used, as a standard
cap may render the system ineffective and could possibly collapse the
Exhaust heat valve - replacement fuel tank. Other components which make up this system include: a
24 Remove the crossover exhaust pipe. special gas tank with fill limiters and vent connections, a charcoal
25 Disconnect the actuating rod from the heat valve. canister with integral purge valve and filter which stores vapor from
26 Remove the valve from inside the exhaust pipe. the fuel tank to be burned by the carburetor, a carburetor bowl vent
27 Installation is a reversal of removal however, make sure all valve and various hoses linking the main components.
attaching fasteners are tightened to proper specifications.
Fuel evaporative system - checking
Thermal vacuum switch (TVS) - replacement 5 As mentioned earlier, this system requires little maintenance,
28 Drain the engine coolant until the fluid level is below the engine however, if a problem is suspected the system should be inspected.
water outlet (thermostat) housing. On the V6, the TVS is located on 6 With the engine cold and at room temperature, disconnect the fuel
the engine manifold. tank line at the charcoal canister. On all models the canister is located
29 Disconnect the hoses from the TVS switch making note of their inside the engine compartment behind the headlight. Each of the hose
positions for reassembly. connections are duly labeled.
30 Using a suitable wrench, remove the TVS switch. 7 As this hose is disconnected, check for the presence of liquid fuel
31 Apply a soft setting sealant uniformly to the threads of the new in the line. Fuel in this vapor hose is an indication that the vent controls
r 187
STRAP
(CANISTER PURGE TO
RADIATOR HOSE)

RETAINER

Fig. 6 13 Typical EGR system components and hose routing Fig. 6.14 Operation of EGR system (Sec 7)

v_ (Sec 7)
J
 188 Chapter 6 Emissions systems

is a thermal vacuum switch (TVS) which controls the vacuum signal to

the EGR valve at varying engine temperatures.
4 The EGR system does not recirculate gases when the engine is at
idle or during deceleration. The system is also regulated by the thermal
vacuum switch which does not allow the system to operate until the
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
5 Common engine problems associated with the EGR system are:
rough idling or stalling when at idle, rough engine performance upon
light throttle application and stalling on deceleration.

Checking
6 Locate the EGR valve. The location varies from year to year, but on
most models it is located on the intake manifold adjacent to the right
side of the carburetor. The EGR valve is a disc-shaped diaphragm.
7 Place your finger under the EGR valve and push upwards on the
diaphragm plate. The diaphragm should move freely from the open to
the closed position. If it doesn't, replace the EGR valve.
8 Start the engine and run it at idle speed. Depress the EGR
diaphragm with your finger (if the valve or adjacent accessories are
hot, wear gloves). When the diaphragm is depressed (you've just
closed the valve to recirculate exhaust), the engine should lose speed,
stumble, or even stall. If engine speed remained unchanged, the EGR
7.13 Checking for vacuum at the end of the hose which attaches to the passages should be checked for blockage. To do this, it is necessary to
EGR valve remove the intake manifold. See Chapter 2 for the procedure to follow.
Any further checking of the positive backpressure-type EGR valve will
require special tools. Any doubtful valve should be replaced, as this is
or pressure-vacuum relief valve in the gas cap are not functioning more economical than purchasing special tools. Negative
properly. backpressure-type EGR valves can be further checked as follows:
8 Hook up a pressure/suction device on the end of the fuel vapor 9 Allow the engine to reach its normal operating temperature. Have
line. Apply 15 psi pressure to the line and observe for excessive loss an assistant depress the accelerator pedal slightly and hold the engine
of pressure. speed constant just above idle.
9 Check for a fuel vapor smell in the engine compartment and 10 Disconnect the vacuum signal line at the EGR valve and check to
around the gas tank. see if the diaphragm plate moves downward. It should move down¬
10 Remove the fuel filler cap and check for pressure in the gas tank. ward and be accompanied by an increase in engine speed.
1 1 If there is a large loss of pressure or a fuel odor, inspect all lines 1 1 Reinstall the vacuum line to the EGR valve. The plate should move
for leaks or deterioration. upward and be accompanied by a decrease in engine speed.
12 With the fuel filler cap removed, apply pressure again and check 12 If the diaphragm does not move, check to see if the engine is at
for obstructions in the vent line. normal operating temperature. Repeat the test if you have any doubts.
13 To check the purge valve built into the canister, start the engine, 13 Next, test to see if any vacuum is reaching the EGR valve. With the
allow it to reach normal operating temperature, and disconnect the engine running and the accelerator pedal slightly depressed, remove
vacuum signal line running from the engine to the canister. With your the vacuum hose at the EGR valve. Place the end of your thumb over
thumb over the end of the hose, raise the engine speed to about 1 500 the open end of the hose and see if there is any vacuum (photo). If
rpm and check for vacuum. If there is no vacuum signal, check the there is vacuum, replace the EGR valve. If there is no vacuum, inspect
EGR operation as described in this chapter. The vacuum signal for the the hose for cracks, breaks or blockage. If the hose is intact, reinstall
it.
canister and the EGR valve originate from the same source.
14 The purge line to the charcoal canister functions with the PCV 14 The EGR system uses a thermal vacuum switch to regulate EGR
vacuum source, so if there is no vacuum when this hose is discon¬ valve operation in relation to the engine temperature. This vacuum
nected from the canister check the PCV valve vacuum. switch opens as the coolant temperature increases, allowing vacuum
to reach the EGR valve. The exact temperature at which the vacuum
switch opens varies from model year to model year, but is related to
Charcoal canister and filter - replacement
the normal operating temperature of the engine. To test the switch, it
1 5 Chapter 1 contains all information concerning the servicing of the is best to have the engine hot.
fuel evaporation system, in particular the replacement of the canister
15 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the EGR valve; connect the
filter.
vacuum gauge to the disconnected end of the hose and start the
motor. Note the reading on the gauge while the engine is idling. Next,
have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal slightly and note this
7 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system new reading. Depress the pedal a bit more. The vacuum reading
should increase as the gas pedal is depressed.
General description 1 6 If the gauge does not respond to throttle opening, disconnect the
1 This system is used to reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emitted hose which leads from the carburetor to the thermal vacuum switch.
from the exhaust. Formation of these pollutants takes place at very Install the vacuum gauge in the vacuum hose end of the switch and
high temperatures; consequently, it occurs during the peak tem¬ repeat the test. If the gauge responds to accelerator opening, the
perature period of the combustion process. To reduce peak tem¬ thermal vacuum switch is defective and should be replaced.
peratures, and thus the formation of NOx, a small amount of exhaust 17 If the vacuum gauge does not respond to an increase in throttle
gas is taken from the exhaust system and recirculated in the opening, check for a plugged hose or carburetor orifice.
combustion cycle.
2 To tap this exhaust supply without an extensive array of pipes and EGR valve - replacement
connections in the exhaust system, additional exhaust pasages are 18 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the EGR valve.
cast into the intricate runner system of the intake manifold. Because 19 Remove the nuts or bolts which secure the valve to the intake
of this arrangement, most of the EGR routing components are hidden manifold.
from view under the manifold. 20 Lift the EGR valve from the engine.
3 Very little maintenance other than occasionally inspecting the 21 Clean the mounting surfaces of the EGR valve. Remove all traces
vacuum hoses and the EGR valve is required. Two types of EGR valves of gasket material.
are used: negative backpressure (1974 - 1979) and positive 22 Place the new EGR valve, with new gasket, on the intake manifold.
backpressure (some models 1 977 through 1 980). Besides the heart of Install the spacer, if used. Tighten the attaching bolts or nuts.
the system — the EGR valve — the only moving part which can wear out 23 Connect the vacuum signal hose.
 Chapter 6 Emissions systems 189

6 There are no functional tests which the home mechanic can make
to determine if the catalytic converter is performing its task.

Catalytic converter - replacement

7 While the removal of the catalytic converter will be a rare
occurrence, it can be successfully separated from the exhaust system
for replacement.
8 Raise the car and support firmly with jack stands. The converter
and exhaust system should be cool before proceeding.
9 Disconnect the converter at the front and rear. On most models a
flange is used with four bolts and nuts to secure the converter to its
mating exhaust pipes. If the fasteners are frozen in place due to the
high temperatures and corrosion, apply a penetrating oil liberally and
allow to soak in. As a last resort, the fasteners will have to be carefully
cut off with a hacksaw.
10 Gently separate the inlet and outlet converter flanges from the
exhaust pipes and remove the converter from under the vehicle.
1 1 Installation is a reversal of the removal process; however, always
use new nuts and bolts.

Catalyst - replacement
12 There are two types of catalytic converters now being used on
vehicles. The monolith converter has coated rods which cannot be
serviced. If failure occurs, the entire converter must be replaced with
a new one. The catalyst in bead type converters can be changed by
draining and filling the beads through a plug at the bottom of the
converter.
13 With specialized equipment, the beads can be replaced with the
converter still positioned under the car. This is definitely a job for a
dealer who has the equipment and training necessary to perform this
operation.
14 Bead replacement is more easily done with the converter removed
from the car. Follow the sequence outlined in the preceding para¬
graphs to do this.
1 5 With the converter on a suitable work bench, remove the pressed
fill plug. This is done by driving a small chisel between the converter
shell and the fill plug lip. Deform the lip until pliers can be used to
remove the plug. Be careful not to damage the converter shell surface
Thermal vacuum switch - replacement where the plug seals.
1 6 Once the plug is removed, drain the beads into a suitable container
24 Drain the engine coolant until the coolant level is beneath the
for disposal. Shake the converter vigorously to remove all beads.
switch.
1 7 To fill the catalytic converter with new beads, raise the front of the
25 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the switch, noting their
converter to approximately 45 degrees and pour the beads through the
positions for reassembly.
fill hole. Tapping lightly on the converter belt with a hammer as the
26 Using a suitable wrench, remove the switch.
beads are poured in will help to settle them. Continue tapping and
27 When installing the switch, apply thread sealer to the threads
pouring until the converter is full.
being careful not to allow the sealant to touch the bottom sensor.
1 8 A special service fill plug will be required to replace the stock one
28 Install the switch and tighten it to specifications.
which was removed. This consists of a bridge, bolt and fill plug and is
installed as follows:

a) Install the bolt into the bridge and put the bridge into the
8 Catalytic converter
converter opening. Move it back and forth to loosen the beads
until the bridge sits fiat on the inside of the converter, straight
General description across the opening (bolt centered).
1 The catalytic converter is an emission control device added to the b) Remove the bolt from the bridge and put the washer and fill
exhaust system to reduce hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide pol¬ plug, dished side out, over the bolt.
lutants. This converter contains beads which are coated with a c) While holding the fill plug and washer against the bolt head,
catalytic substance containing platinum and palladium. thread the bolt 4 or 5 turns into the bridge.
2 It is imperative that only unleaded gasoline be used in a vehicle d) After fill plug has seated against the converter housing,
equipped with a catalytic converter. Unleaded fuel reduces combus¬ tighten the bolt to 28 ft-lb.
tion chamber deposits, corrosion and prevents lead contamination of
the catalyst. 19 Install the converter, start the engine and check for leaks.
3 Periodic maintenance of the catalytic converter is not required;
however, if the car is raised for other service it is advisable to inspect
the overall condition of the catalytic converter and related exhaust
9 Computer command control system (C4)
components.
4 If the catalytic converter has been proven by an official inspection
station to be defective, the converter can be replaced with a new one
General description
or the coated beads drained and replaced. Physical damage or the use 1 This system, also known as the 'C4’ system, first became available
of leaded fuels are the main causes of a malfunctioning catalytic on the 1 980 models. The computer command control system controls
exhaust emissions while retaining drivability by maintaining a continu¬
converter.
5 It should be noted that the catalytic converter can reach very high ous interaction between all of the emissions systems. Any malfunction
temperatures in operation. Because of this, any work performed to the in the computer command system is signaled by a 'Check Engine' light
converter or in the general area where it is located should be done only on the dash which goes on and remains lit until the malfunction is
after the system has sufficiently cooled. Also, caution should be corrected.
exercised when lifting the vehicle with a hoist as the converter can be 2 The computer command control system requires special tools for
maintenance and repair so any work on it should be left to your dealer
damaged if the lifting pads are not properly positioned.
190 Chapter 6 Emissions systems

adjust engine performance. The sensors are: barometric pressure

BRIDGE sensor (BARO), manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor and the
throttle position sensor (TPS) as well as the abovementioned coolant
sensor.

Barometric pressure sensor (BARO)

9 Located in the engine compartment, the barometric pressure
sensor provides a voltage to the ECM, indicating ambient air pressure
which varies with altitude. Not all vehicles are equipped with this
sensor.

Manifold absolute pressure (MAPS)

10 Also located in the engine compartment, the MAPS senses engine
vacuum (manifold) pressure. The ECM uses this information to adjust
fuel/air mixture and spark timing in accordance with driving conditions.

Throttle position sensor (TPS)

11 Mounted in the carburetor body, the TPS is moved by the
accelerator pump and sends a low voltage signal to the ECM when the
throttle is closed and a higher voltage when it is opened. The ECM
Fig. 6.16 Fill plug components of bead-type catalytic converter uses this voltage feed to recognize throttle position.
(Sec 8)
Idle speed control (ISC)
or a qualified technician. Although complicated, the system can be
understood by examining each component and its function. 12 The idle speed control maintains low idle without stalling under
changing load conditions. The ECM controls the idle speed control
motor on the carburetor to adjust the idle.
Electronic control module (ECM)
3 The electronic control module (ECM) is essentially a small on¬
board computer located under the dash on most vehicles which
Electronic spark timing (EST)
monitors up to 15 engine/vehicle functions and controls as many as 13 The high energy ignition (HEI) distributor used with this system
nine different operations. The ECM contains a programmable read only has no provision for centrifugal or vacuum advance of spark timing.
memory (PROM) calibration unit which tailors each ECM's This is controlled electronically by the ECM except under certain
performance to conform to the vehicle. The PROM is programmed conditions such as cranking the engine.
with the vehicle's particular design, weight, axle ratio, etc. and cannot 14 The AIR, EGR, EFE and fuel evaporative systems explained
be used in another ECM in a car which differs in any way. elsewhere in this chapter are also controlled by the ECM in the
4 The ECM receives continuous information from the computer computer command control system.
command system and processes it in accordance with PROM instruc¬
tions. It then sends out electronic signals to the system components, Air injection reactor
modifying their performance. 1 5 When the engine is cold, the ECM energizes an air switching valve
which allows air to flow to the exhaust ports to lower carbon monoxide
Oxygen sensor (OS) (CO) and hydrocarbon (HC) levels in the exhaust.
5 The oxygen sensor (OS) is mounted in the exhaust pipe, upstream
of the catalytic converter. It monitors the exhaust stream and sends Exhaust gas recirculator (EGR)
information to the ECM on how much oxygen is present. The oxygen 16 The ECM controls the ported vacuum to the EGR with a solenoid
level is determined by how rich or lean the fuel mixture in the valve. When the engine is cold the solenoid is energized to block
carburetor is. vacuum to the EGR valve until the engine is warm.

Mixture control solenoid Evaporative emission system

6 This controls the fuel flow through the carburetor idle and main 17 When the engine is cold or idling, the ECM solenoid blocks
metering circuits. The solenoid cycles 10 times per second, constantly vacuum to the valve at the top of the charcoal canister. When the
adjusting the fuel/air mixture. The ECM energizes the solenoid on engine is warm and at a specified rpm, the ECM de-energizes the
information it receives from the oxygen sensor to keep emissions valve, releasing the collected vapors into the intake manifold.
within limits.
Early fuel evaporation (EFE)
Coolant sensor 18 The ECM controls a valve which shuts off the system until the
7 This sensor is the coolant stream sends information to the ECM on engine is warm.
engine temperature. The ECM can then vary the fuel/air ratio for
conditions such as cold start. The ECM can also perform various Computer command control system diagnostic circuit
switching functions on the EGR, EFE and AIR management systems check
according to engine temperature. This feedback from the coolant
19 Using the proper equipment, the computer command control
sensor to the ECM also is used to vary spark advance and activate the
system can be used to diagnose malfunctions within itself. The "Check
hot temperature light.
Engine" light can flash trouble codes stored in the ECM "Trouble Code
Memory . As stated before, this diagnosis should be left to your dealer
Pressure sensors or a qualified technician because of the tools required and the fact that
8 The ECM uses the information from various pressure sensors to ECM programming varies from one model vehicle to another.
 Chapter 6 Emissions systems 191

Troubleshooting - emission systems

Condition Possible cause

Engine idles abnormally rough and/or stalls EGR valve vacuum hoses misrouted
Leaking EGR valve
EFE valve malfunctioning
PCV system clogged or hoses misrouted
TCS system malfunctioning

Engine runs rough on light throttle acceleration Malfunctioning EGR valve

EFE valve malfunctioning
TCS system malfunctioning

Engine stalls and/or backfires during deceleration Restriction in EGR vacuum hoses
Sticking EGR valve
Malfunctioning AIR diverter valve
Malfunctioning TCS system

Engine detonation EGR control valve blocked or air flow restricted

Binding EFE (heat riser) valve
Malfunctioning or restricted operation of Thermae air cleaner
Clogged PCV valve and/or hoses

Engine dieseling on shut-off TCS idle stop solenoid improperly adjusted

Thermae valve sticking

Excessive engine oil consumption Clogged PCV valve and or hoses

Poor high gear performance Malfunctioning TCS switch

Fuel odor Evaporative emission system hoses clogged; hoses disconnected or

cracked; charcoal canister filter in need of replacement

Note: if equipped with C4 system (1980 models), see Section 9

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission
Contents

General information. 1 Transmission - removal and installation. 9

Floorshift transmission backdrive linkage - adjustment. 4 Transmission mounts - checking. 3
4-speed (Saginaw) transmission - overhaul. 1 1 Transmission oil seals - replacement. 6
Shift control assembly - removal and installation. 5 Transmission side cover (3-speed Saginaw) - overhaul. 7
Shift linkage — adjustment. 2 Transmission side cover (4-speed Saginaw) - overhaul. 8
3-speed (Saginaw) transmission - overhaul. 10

Specifications

Transmission type. 3 or 4 forward speeds (all synchromesh) and reverse. Floor or steering
column shift.

Application
1 975 through 1 980. 76 mm Saginaw 3-speed
1978 through 1979 . 76 mm Saginaw 4-speed

Oil capacity
3 speed units. 3.5 US pts
4 speed units. 3.5 US pts

Torque specifications ft-lbs

3-speed Saginaw
Clutch gear retainer to case bolts. 14
Side cover to case bolts. 14
Extension to case bolts. 45
Shift lever to shifter shaft bolts. 25
Lubrication filler plug. 13
Transmission case to clutch housing bolts. 53
Crossmember to frame nuts. 25
Crossmember to mount bolts. 40
Mount to transmission bolts. 32

4-speed Saginaw
Clutch gear retainer to case bolts. 15
Side cover to case bolts. 15
Extension to case bolts. 45
Shift lever to shifter shaft bolts. 25
Lubrication filler plug. 18
Transmission case to clutch housing bolts. 75
Crossmember to frame nuts. 25
Crossmember to mount and mount to extension bolts. 40
Mount to transmission bolts. 32

1 General information topped up as necessary.

Manual transmissions may be of the three or four-speed type
All Buick manual transmissions are of a synchronized, constant- manufactured by Muncie, Saginaw or Warner. Gearshift is by column
mesh design. These transmissions are fully synchronized in all forward or floor-mounted lever according to model.
gears. The transmission installed in Buick automobiles are either 3- or The forward speeds on all versions are of the synchromesh type.
4-speed manual-shift and can be controlled by either a column or a No provision is made for periodic oil changing but the oil level
console linkage setup. There is no provision made for periodic oil should be checked at the specified intervals and topped up as
changing; however, oil level should be checked occasionally and necessary.
r 193

Fig. 7.1 Column shift linkage (3-speed transmission) (Sec 2)

Fig. 7.2 Floorshift linkage (4-speed transmission) (Sec 2)

J
 194 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

2 Shift linkage - adjustment

Column shift
1 Place the shift lever in 'Reverse' and the ignition switch in the
'Lock' position.
2 Raise the vehicle for access beneath, then loosen the shift control
swivel locknuts. Pull down slightly on the 1 st/Reverse control rod
attached to the column lever to remove any slackness, then tighten the
locknut at the transmission lever.
3 Unlock the ignition switch and shift the column lever to Neutral.
Position the column lower levers in the 'Neutral' position, align the
gauge holes in the levers and insert a ^ inch diameter gauge pin.
4 Support the rod and swivel to prevent movement, then tighten the
2nd/3rd shift control rod locknut.
5 Remove the alignment tool from the column lower levers and
check the operation. Place the column shift lever in 'Reverse' and
check the interlock control. It must not be possible to obtain 'Lock'
except in 'Reverse'.
6 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

F/oorshift
Fig. 7.3 Floorshift control installation - typical (Sec 5)
1 Switch the ignition to Off then raise the vehicle for access
beneath.
8 Loosen the swivel locknuts on the shift rods. Check that the rods
pass freely through the swivels. DETENT CAM
DETENT SPRING
9 Set the shift levers to 'Neutral' at the transmission.
10 Move the shift control lever into the 'Neutral' detent position, align DETENT CAM

the control assembly levers, and insert the locating gauge into the
lever alignment slot.
1 1 Tighten the shift rod swivel locknuts then remove the gauge.
12 Shift the transmission control lever into 'Reverse' and place the
ignition switch in the 'Lock' position. Loosen the locknut at the back
drive control rod swivel, then pull the rod down slightly to remove any
slack in the column mechanism. Tighten the clevis jam nut.
13 Check the interlock control; the key should move freely to, and
from, the Lock' position when the adjustment is correct. 2-3 SHIFT
14 Check the transmission shift control and readjust if necessary. FORK
15 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

3 Transmission mounts - checking

1ST &
SHAFT
SHIFTER SHAFT SHIFT FORK
1 Raise the car for access beneath and support firmly with stands.
CAM
Make sure the vehicle is secured, as you must jostle the vehicle
RETAINER RING
somewhat to check the mounts.
2 Push upward and pull downward on the transmission extension
housing and observe the transmission mount.
3 If the extension can be pushed upwards but cannot be pulled Fig. 7.4 Transmission side cover (3-speed Saginaw) (Sec 7)
down, this is an indication that the rubber is worn and the mount is
bottomed out.
4 If the rubber portion of the mount separates from the metal plate,
this also means that the mount should be changed.
5 Check that all of the attaching screws or nuts are tight on the
crossmember and the transmission. PIN
1-2 DETENT 3-4 DETENT

4 Floorshift transmission backdrive linkage - adjustment 3-4

FORK

1 Shift the transmission into 'Reverse' and turn the ignition switch
to the 'Lock' position.
1-2 SHIFTER
2 Raise the vehicle for access beneath.
SHAFT ASSY.
3 Loosen the backdrive control rod swivel locknut, pull down on the
column linkage to remove any slackness, then tighten the clevis jam REVERSE
nut. SHIFTER SHAFT
ASSY.
4 Check that the ignition key moves freely through the 'Lock'
position; readjust if necessary at the bellcrank. 3-4 SHIFTER
5 Lower the vehicle to the ground. SHAFT ASSY

DETENT SPRING
5 Shift control assembly — removal and installation & BALL (UNDERNEATH) 1-2
RING
FORK
Column shift models
1 Refer to Chapter 1 1 in conjunction with stering column dismantl¬
ing.
Fig. 7.5 Transmission side cover (4-speed Saginaw) (Sec 8)
 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission 195

6.11 Extension housing oil seal 9.3 Speedometer drive cable at transmission 9.6 Transmission mount-to-crossmember bolt

Floorshift (3- and 4-speed) 2 Disconnect the control rods from the levers on the side of the
2 With the shift lever in the Neutral position, remove the shift lever transmission.
knob and center console trim plate. 3 Remove the cover assembly from the transmission case and allow
3 Raise the vehicle and support firmly on stands. the oil to drain.
4 Disconnect the shift rods from the shift control levers. They are 4 Remove both shift forks from the shifter shaft assemblies and both
secured with retaining clips. Mark each rod and its appropriate lever shifter shaft assemblies from the cover.
for easy reinstallation, and take care not to lose any special washers 5 Pry out shaft O-ring seals if replacement is required.
used. 6 Remove the detent cam spring and pivot retainer C-clip. Remove
5 Remove the bolts which secure the shift control unit to its support both detent cams.
assembly. 7 Inspect all parts for damage and wear, and replace as necessary.
6 Rotate the control assembly and pull it down past the 8 With the detent spring tang projecting up over the 2nd/3rd shifter
crossmember and remove it from under the vehicle. shaft cover opening, install the 1 st/Reverse detent cam onto the
7 To reinstall, slide the control assembly up into therubber boot and detent cam pivot pin. With the detent spring tang projecting up over
position it against the support. Install the retaining bolts. the first and reverse shifter shaft cover hole, install the 2nd/3rd detent
8 Place the control levers in the Neutral position and insert a ^--inch cam.
gauge pin (see Section 2, 'Shift linkage - adjustment'). 9 Install the C-clip to the pivot shaft and hook the spring into the
9 Connect the shift rods to the control levers and install the detent cam notches.
appropriate washers and retaining pins. 10 Install the shifter shaft assemblies carefully into the cover and the
10 Lower the vehicle and check for proper operation. Make the shift forks to the shifter shaft assemblies. Lift up the detent cam to
necessary adjustment referring to the proper sections in this chapter. allow the forks to seat properly.
1 1 Set the shifter levers into the Neutral detent (center position) and
position the gasket on the case.
12 Carefully position the side cover, ensuring that the shift forks are
6 Transmission oil seals - replacement
aligned with their appropriate mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves.
13 Install and torque tighten the cover bolts to the specified value.
1 The following oil seals can be replaced without removing the
14 Top-up the oil in the transmission and lower the vehicle to the
transmission from the car.
ground.

Speedometer gear seat

2 Raise the vehicle for access beneath. Set firmly on stands.
8 Transmission side cover (4- speed Saginaw) - overhaul
3 Disconnect the speedometer cable, remove the lockplate to
extension bolt and lockwasher, then remove the lockplate.
1 Shift the transmission into Neutral'.
4 Insert a screwdriver in the lockplate fitting, and pry the fitting gear
2 Raise the vehicle for access beneath. Set firmly on stands.
and shaft from the extension. 3 Remove the shift levers from the shifter shafts.
5 Pry out the O-ring. 4 Remove the cover assembly and allow the oil to drain.
6 Installation is the reverse of removal, but lubricate the new seal
with transmission lubricant and hold the assembly so that the slot in
the fitting is towards the lockplate boss on the extension.

Extension oil seal

7 Remove the drive shaft, as described in Chapter 8. Remove any
ancillary items necessary to provide additional clearance.
8 Carefully pry out the old seal.
9 Carefully clean the counterbore and examine for any damage.
10 Pre-lubricate between the lips of the new seal with transmission
lubricant and coat the outer diameter with a suitable sealant.
1 1 Carefully install the seal, lips inwards, until the flange seats, ideally
a tubular spacer should be used for this job (photo).
1 2 Reinstall the drive shaft (refer to Chapter 8) and any other ancillary
items removed.

7 Transmission side cover (3- speed Saginaw) - overhaul

1 Shift transmission into Neutral' and raise the vehicle for access
Fig. 7.6 Typical transmission mounting (Sec 9)
beneath. Set firmly on stands.
 196 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission

5 Remove the outer shifter levers. Note: On some later models it may be necessary to remove the
6 Remove the shift forks from the shifter shaft assemblies, and the catalytic converter to permit removal of the transmission. (Refer to
three shifter shaft assemblies from the cover. Chapter 6, for further information).
7 If necessary, pry out the O-ring on the 1 st/2nd and Reverse shafts. 10 Lower the supporting jack until the transmission can be withdrawn
8 Remove the Reverse shifter shaft detent ball and spring. rearwards and removed.
9 Remove the detent cam spring and the pivot pin C-clip. Mark the 1 1 When installing, raise the transmission into position and slide it
cams for identification on reassembly, then remove them. forwards, guiding the clutch gear into the clutch housing.
10 Inspect all the parts for damage and wear and replace as 12 Install the transmission clutch housing retaining bolts and lock-
necessary. washers, and torque-tighten to the specified value.
1 1 With the detent spring tang projecting up over the 3rd/4th shifter 13 Slide the shift lever into the rubber boot and position the shaft
shaft cover opening, install the 1st/2nd detent cam onto the detent control to the support. Install and torque-tighten the retaining bolts.
cam pivot pin. With the detent spring tang projecting up over the 14 Connect the shift rods to the transmission and torque-tighten the
1st/2nd shifter shaft cover hole, install the 3rd/4th detent cam. bolts. Connect the backdrive rod to the bellcrank.
12 Install the detent cam C-clip to the pivot shaft and hook the spring 15 Raise the engine and position the crossmember. Install and
into the cam notches. torque-tighten the transmission mount and crossmember retaining
13 Install the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th shifter shaft assemblies carefully bolts.
into the cover. 16 Install the drive shaft (refer to Chapter 8).
14 Install the shift forks to the shifter shaft assemblies, lifting up on 17 Connect the speedometer cable and TCS switch wiring.
the detent cam to permit the forks to seat. 18 Install the T-handle and spring (4-speed), and the shift knob on
1 5 Install the Reverse detent ball and spring, then install the Reverse floorshift models.
shifter shaft assembly to the cover. 19 Fill the transmission with the correct quantity and grade of
16 Move the shifter levers into 'Neutral'. lubricant, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
17 Position the cover gasket on the case and carefully position the
side cover, ensuring that the shift forks are aligned with their
appropriate mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves.
10 3-speed (Saginaw) transmission - overhaul
18 Screw in the side cover bolts and tighten to the specified torque.
1 9 Top-up the transmission oil and then lower the car to the ground.
1 Remove the transmission, drain the oil and remove the side cover
assembly (refer to Section 7).
2 Remove the drive-gear bearing retainer and gasket.
3 Remove the drive-gear bearing stem snap-ring, then pull out the
9 Transmission - removal and installation gear until a large screwdriver can be used to lever the drive-gear
bearing from its location.
1 Remove the shift lever knob, and on 4-speed models the spring 4 Remove the speedometer driven gear from the rear extension,
and T-handle (not necessary on column shift models).. then remove the extension retaining bolts.
2 Raise the vehicle for access beneath. 5 Remove the reverse idler shaft E-ring.
3 Disconnect the speedometer cable and TCS switch on the 6 Withdraw the drivegear, mainshaft and extension assembly
transmission (photo). together through the rear casing.
4 Remove the drive shaft (refer to Chapter 8).
7 From the mainshaft, detach the drive-gear, needle bearings and
5 Support the engine/transmission by placing a jack and block of synchronizer ring.
wood as an insulator under the oil pan.
8 Expand the snap-ring in the rear extension which retains the rear
6 Remove the transmission mount to crossmember bolts and bearing and then withdraw the rear extension.
crossmember to frame attaching bolts. Support the engine and remove 9 Using a dummy shaft or special tool (J22246) drive the counter¬
the crossmember (photo).
shaft (complete with Woodruff key) out of the rear of the transmission
7 Disconnect the shift rods from the transmission and on floorshift case. Carefully remove the dummy shaft and extract the countergear,
models disconnect the backdrive rod at the bellcrank. bearings and thrust washers from the interior of the transmission case.
8 On floorshift models, remove the bolts attaching the shift control 10 Drive the reverse idler shaft out of the rear of the transmission
assembly to the support; then carefully pull the unit down until the case using a long drift.
shift lever clears the rubber boot. Remove the assembly from the 1 1 The mainshaft should only be dismantled if a press or bearing
vehicle.
puller is available: otherwise take the assembly to your Buick dealer.
9 Remove the transmission to clutch housing upper bolts. Install Be careful to keep all components separated and in order for easier
guide pins in the holes, then remove the lower bolts. reassembly.

10.1 3 Removing 2nd-speed blocker ring and 1 0.1 5 Extracting rear bearing snap-ring 1 0.32a Putting together the countergear
gear from the front end of the mainshaft (Saginaw 3-speed) rollers (Saginaw 3-speed)
(Saginaw 3-speed)
10.32b Countergear rollers retained with 10.32c Countergear needle-roller retaining 10.32d Countergear thrust washer held in
grease (Saginaw 3-speed) washer in position (Saginaw 3-speed) position with grease (Saginaw 3-speed)

10.34 Install the countershaft with the slot to 10.35a Mainshaft rear bearing outer snap-ring 10.35b Expanding rear bearing outer snap-ring
the rear (Saginaw 3-speed) in position in the extension housing (Saginaw (Saginaw 3-speed)
3-speed)

10.36 Mainshaft pilot bearings retained with 10.38a Installing clutch drive gear, mainshaft 10.38b Countergear anti-lash plate (Saginaw
grease (Saginaw 3-speed) and extension (Saginaw 3-speed) 3-speed)

10.41 Installing clutch drivegear bearing shaft 10.42 Installing clutch drive gear bearing
10.40 Clutch drive gear bearing outer snap¬
snap-ring (Saginaw 3-speed) retainer and gasket (Saginaw 3-speed)
ring (Saginaw 3-speed)
198
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 10

Fig. 7.8 Exploded view of the 3-speed Saginaw transmission (Sec 10)

1 Thrust washer (front) 15 Drive gear bearing 30 Mainshaft 45 Extension

2 Bearing washer 16 Case 31 1 st speed gear 46 OH seal
3 Needle bearings 17 Drive gear 32 1st speed blocker ring 47 Gasket
4 Countergear 18 Pilot bearings 33 1 st/2nd synchro hub 48 2nd/3rd shift fork
5 Needle bearings 19 3rd speed blocker ring assembly 49 1 st/reverse shift fork
6 Bearing washer 20 E-ring 34 1 st/2nd synchro sleeve 50 2nd/3rd shifter shaft
7 Thrust washer (rear) 21 Reverse idler gear 35 Snap ring (hub to shaft) assembly
8 Countershaft 22 Reverse idler shaft 36 Reverse gear 51 1 st/reverse shifter shaft
9 Woodruff key 23 Woodruff key 37 Thrust washer assembly
10 Bearing retainer 24 Snap ring (hub to shaft) 39 Rear bushing 52 0-ring seal
11 Gasket 25 2nd/3rd synchro sleeve 40 Snap ring (bearing to 53 E-ring
12 Oil seal 26 Synchro key spring shaft) 54 Spring
13 Snap ring (bearing to 27 2nd/3rd synchro hub 41 Speedo drive gear 55 2nd/3rd detent cam
case) assembly 42 Retaining dip 56 1 st/reverse detent cam
14 Snap ring (bearing to 28 2nd speed blocker ring 43 Gasket 57 Side cover
gear) 29 2nd speed gear 44 Snap ring (rear bearing 58 TCS switch and gasket
to extension) 59 Lip sea!
200

Fig. 7.9 Clutch gear and mainshaft assembly (3-speed Saginaw) (Sec 10)

/ Drive gear 8 2nd speed gear 14 Reverse gear

2 Drive gear bearing 9 Shoulder (part of mainshaft) 15 Reverse gear thrust
3 3rd speed blocker ring 10 1 st speed gear washer
4 Mainshaft pilot bearings (14) 11 1 st speed blocker ring 16 Spring washer
5 Snap ring 12 1 st speed synchro 1 7 Rear bearing
6 2nd/3rd synchro assembly assembly 18 Snap ring
7 2nd speed blocker ring 13 Snap ring 19 Speedo drive gear and dip
20 Mainshaft

1 1.5 Removing speedometer drive gear from mainshaft (Saginaw 4- 1 1.6 Extracting rear bearing snap-ring from mainshaft (Saginaw 4-
speed) speed)
1 1.7 Removing wave washer, thrustwasher 1 1.8a Removing 1 st/2nd gear blocker ring 11.8b Extracting 1st/2nd synchro hub snap¬
and 1st gear from the mainshaft (Saginaw 4- (Saginaw 4-speed) ring (Saginaw 4-speed)
speed)

1 1.8c Removing the 1 st/2nd synchro 11.9 Removing 2nd speed blocker ring and 11.11a Mainshaft showing fixed shoulder
sleeve/reverse gear (Saginaw 4-speed) gear (Saginaw 4-speed) (Saginaw 4-speed)

11.11b Installing 3rd speed gear to mainshaft 1 1,12a Installing 3rd/4th gear blocker ring 1 1,12b Installing the 3rd/4th synchro
(Saginaw 4-speed) (Saginaw 4-speed) assembly (Saginaw 4-speed)

11.15 Installing the 1st/2nd synchro assembly 1 1.21 Mainshaft pilot bearings retained with
11.13 Installing the 3rd/4th synchro hub snap¬
(Saginaw 4-speed) grease (Saginaw 4-speed)
ring (Saginaw 4-speed)
202

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 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission 203

12 Remove the 2nd/3rd synchro hub snap-ring from the mainshaft.

the tangs on the thrust washers are away from the gear faces. Note:
Do not mix up the synchro unit components; although identical, the If no dummy shaft is available, carefully stick the roller bearings in
components of each unit are matched in production.
place, but when installing the shaft (paragraph 34), take care that they
13 Remove the synchro unit, 2nd speed blocker ring and 2nd speed are not dislodged (photos).
gear from the front end of the mainshaft (photo).
33 Install reverse idler gear and shaft with Woodruff key from the rear
14 Depress the speedometer drive-gear retaining clip and remove the of the transmission case. Do not install the idler shaft E-ring at this
gear from the mainshaft. time.
15 Remove the rear bearing snap-ring from its mainshaft groove 34 Install the countergear assembly from the rear of the transmission
(photo).
case and then insert the countershaft so that it picks up the roller
16 Support the reverse gear and press the mainshaft out of the rear bearings and the thrust washers, at the same time displacing the
bearing, and snap-ring from the rear end of the mainshaft. dummy shaft or tool (if used). The countershaft should be inserted so
17 Remove 1 st/reverse synchro hub snap-ring from the mainshaft that its slot is at its rear end when installed (photo).
and remove the synchro unit. 35 Expand the snap-ring in the rear extension and locate the
18 Remove the 1st speed blocker ring and 1st speed gear from the extension over the rear end of the mainshaft and onto the rear bearing.
rear end of the mainshaft. Make sure that the snap-ring seats in the rear bearing groove (photos).
19 Clean all components in solvent and dry thoroughly. Check for 36 Insert the mainshaft pilot bearings (14 of them) into the clutch
wear or chipped teeth. If there has been a history of noisy gearshifts gear cavity and then assemble the 3rd speed blocker ring onto the
or the synchro facility could easily be 'beaten' then replace the clutch drive gear (photo).
appropriate synchro unit. 37 Locate the clutch drive gear, pilot bearings and 3rd speed blocker
20 Extract the oil seal from the rear end of the rear extension and ring over the front of the mainshaft. Do not fit the drive gear bearing
drive in a new one with a tubular drift. at this time; also make sure that the notches in the blocker ring align
21 Clean the transmission case inside and out and check for cracks, with the keys in the 2nd/3rd synchro unit.
particularly around the bolt holes. 38 Stick a new gasket (using grease) to the rear face of the
22 Extract the drive-gear bearing retainer seal and drive in a new one. transmission case and then, from the rear, insert the combined clutch
23 Start rebuilding the transmission by first reassembling the main- drive gear mainshaft and rear extension. Make sure that the 2nd/3rd
shaft. Install 2nd speed gear so that the rear face of the gear butts synchro sleeve is pushed fully forward so that the clutch drive gear
against the flange on the mainshaft. engages with the countergear anti-lash plate (photos).
24 Fit the blocker ring, followed by the 2nd/3rd synchro assembly 39 Install the rear extension to transmission case bolts. Torque
(shift fork groove nearer rear end of the mainshaft). Make sure that the tighten to specifications.
notches of the blocker ring align with the keys of the synchro 40 Fit the outer snap-ring to the clutch drive gear bearing and install
assembly. the bearing over the drive gear and into the front of the transmission
25 Fit the snap-ring which retains the synchro hub to the mainshaft. case (photo).
26 To the rear end of the mainshaft, install the 1st speed gear, 41 Fit the clutch drive gear bearing shaft snap-ring (photo).
followed by the blocker ring. 42 Install the clutch drive gear bearing retainer and its gasket making
27 Install the 1 st/reverse synchro unit (shift fork groove nearer the sure that the oil return hole is at the bottom (photo).
front end of the mainshaft), again making sure that the notches of the 43 Now install the reverse idler gear E-ring to the shaft.
blocker ring align with the keys of the synchro unit. 44 With the synchronizer sleeves in the neutral position, install the
28 Install the snap-ring, reverse gear thrust washer and spring side cover, gasket and fork assembly (Section 7). Torque-tighten all
washer. the bolts
29 Install the mainshaft rear ball bearing with the outer snap-ring 45 Install the speedometer driven gear in the rear extension.
groove nearer the front of the shaft.
30 Install the rear bearing shaft snap-ring.
31 Fit the speedometer drive gear and retaining clip. 11 4-speed (Saginaw) transmission - overhaul
32 Insert a dummy shaft through the countergear, and stick the roller
bearings (27 at each end), needle retainer washers and the trans¬ 1 Carry out the operations of paragraph 1 thru 9 of Section 10 but
mission case thrust washers, in position using thick grease. Note that note than an E-ring is not fitted to the reverse idler shaft.

Fig. 7.11 Clutch gear and mainshaft assembly (4-speed Saginaw) (Sec 11)

1 Drive gear bearing 5 3rd speed gear 8 1 st speed gear 12 Speedo drive gear
2 Drive gear 6 2nd speed gear 9 Thrust washer 13 Mainshaft
3 Mainshaft pilot bearings 7 1 st/2nd synchro and re verse 10 Spring washer 14 Snap ring
4 3rd/4th synchro assembly gear assembly 11 Rear bearing 15 Synchro blocker ring
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 Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission 205

2 Remove the reverse idler gear stop-ring (where applicable), the (photos).
use a long drift to drive the reverse idler shaft out of the rear of the 13 Install the snap-ring which retains the synchro hub to the
transmission case, mainshaft (photo).
3 Remove the 3rd/4th synchro hub snap-ring from the mainshaft. 14 To the rear end of the mainshaft, install the 2nd speed gear
Do not mix up the synchro unit components, which although identical followed by the blocker ring.
in appearance are matched in production. 1 5 Install the 1st/2nd synchro unit (shift fork groove nearer the front
4 Remove the synchro unit, 3rd gear blocker ring and 3rd speed gear of the mainshaft), again making sure that the notches of the blocker
from the front end of the mainshaft. ring align with the keys of the synchro unit. Install the snap-ring and
5 Depress the speedometer drive-gear retaining clip and remove the blocker ring (photo).
gear from the mainshaft (photo). 16 Install 1st gear, the steel thrust washer and the wave washer.
6 Remove the rear bearing snap-ring from its mainshaft groove 17 Install the mainshaft rear ball bearing with the outer snap-ring
(photo). groove nearer the front of the shaft.
7 Support 1 st gear and press the mainshaft out of the rear bearing. 18 Install the rear bearing shaft snap-ring.
Remove the snap-ring, the rear bearing, the wave washer, thrust 19 Fit the speedometer drive-gear and retaining clip.
washer and 1st gear from the rear end of the mainshaft (photo). 20 Carry out the operations of paragraphs 32 thru 35 of Section 10
8 Remove the blocker ring and 1st/2nd synchro hub snap-ring from but ignore the reference to the E-ring.
the mainshaft and remove the synchro unit/reverse gear (photos). 21 Insert the mainshaft pilot bearings (14 of them) into the clutch
9 Remove the 2nd speed blocker ring and 2nd speed gear from the cavity and then assemble the 4th speed blocker ring onto the clutch
rear end of the mainshaft (photo). drive-gear (photo).
10 Carry out the operations of paragraphs 19 thru 22 of Section 10. 22 Locate the clutch drive-gear, pilot bearings and 4th speed blocker
1 1 Commence rebuilding the transmission by first reassembling the ring over the front of the mainshaft. Do not fit the drive-gear bearing
mainshaft. Install 3rd speed gear so that the rear face of the gear butts at this time; also make sure that the notches in the blocker ring align
against the flange on the mainshaft (photos). with the keys in the 3rd/4th synchro unit.
12 Install the blocker ring, followed by 3rd/4th synchro assembly 23 Carry out the operations of paragraphs 38 thru 42 and paragraph
(shift fork groove nearer mainshaft flange). Make sure that the notches 44 of Section 1 0. Note that the reference at paragraph 38 to 2nd/3rd
of the blocker ring align with the keys of the synchro assembly synchro sleeve will now be 3rd/4th synchro sleeve.
Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission
Refer to Chapter 13 for information applicable to later models

Contents

Column shift linkage - checking and adjustment. 4 Turbo Hydra-Matic 200 - TV cable replacement. 8
Extension housing oil seal - replacement. 3 Turbo Hydra-Matic 250 and 350 - downshift (detent) cable
Floorshift linkage - adjustment. 5 replacement. 6
General information. 1 Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 - downshift (detent) switch
Identification. 2 adjustment. 7
Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission - combined neutral Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission - removal and installation. 10
start/back-up lamp/seat belt warning switch adjustment. 9

Specifications

Transmission type 3-speed Turbo-Hydra-Matic with hydrokinetic torque converter. Shift

control is either a steering column rod or floorshift

Application
1974/1975/1977 . Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 and 400
1976. Turbo Hydra-Matic 350
1978/1979 . Turbo Hydra-Matic 200 and 350
1980. Turbo Hydra-Matic 200, 250 and 350

Fluid capacities
Turbo Hydra-Matic 200
* Routine fluid change. 2.5 US qts
Filling from dry (overhaul). 10.0 US qts

Turbo Hydra-Matic 250

* Routine fluid change. 4 US qts
Filling from dry (overhaul). 10.75 US qts

Turbo Hydra-Matic 350

* Routine fluid change. US qts
Filling from dry (overhaul). 10.0 US qts

Turbo Hydra-Matic 400

•Routine fluid change. 3.75 US qts
Filling from dry (overhaul). 11 US qts

* The small quantity required at routine fluid changing is due to the fact that the fluid in the torque converter cannot be drained unless dismantled.

Torque specifications ft-lb in-lb

Turbo Hydra-Matic 250 and 350

Pump cover-to-pump body. 17
Pump assembly-to-case. 20
Valve body and support plate. 13
Parking lock bracket. 29
Oil suction screen.. 40
Oil pan-to-case. 13
Extension-to-case. 25
Modulator retainer-to-case. 12
Inner selector lever to shaft. 25
Detent valve actuating bracket. 52
Converter-to-flexplate bolts. 35
Under pan-to-transmission case 110
Transmission case-to-engine 35
 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission 207

Oil cooler pipe connectors-to-transmission case or radiator 15

Oil cooler pipe-to-connectors. 12
Gearshift bracket-to-frame. 15
Gearshift shaft-to-swivel. 20
Manual shaft-to-bracket. 20
Detent cable-to-transmission. 75
Intermediate band adjust nut. 15

Turbo Hydra-Matic 400

Pump cover bolts. 18
Parking pawl bracket bolts. 18
Center support bolts. 23
Pump to case attaching bolts. 18
Extension housing-to-case attaching bolts. 23
Rear servo cover bolts. 18
Detent solenoid bolts. 8
Control valve body bolts. 8
Bottom pan attaching screws. 12
Modulator retainer bolt. 18
Governor cover bolts. 18
Manual lever-to-manual shaft nut. 8
Manual shaft-to-inside detent lever. 18
Linkage swivel clamp nut. 43
Converter dust shield screws. 93
Transmission-to-engine mounting bolts. 35
Converter-to-flexplate bolts. 32
Rear mount-to-transmission bolts. 40
Rear mount-to-cross-member bolt. 40
Cross-member mounting bolts. 25
Line pressure take-off plug. 13
Strainer retainer bolt. 10
Oil cooler pipe connectors-to-transmission case or radiator 11
Oil cooler pipe-to-connector. 10
Gearshift bracket-to-frame. 15
Gearshift shaft-to-swivel. 20
Manual shaft-to-bracket. 20
Downshift switch-to-bracket. 30

Turbo Hydra-Matic 200

Pump cover bolts. 18
Pump-to-case bolts. 18
Parking pawl bracket bolts. 18
Control valve body bolts. 9
Oil screen retaining bolts. 9
Oil pan bolts. 12
Torque converter-to-flexplate bolts. 35
Transmission-to-engine bolts. 25
Converter dust shield screws. 8
Speedometer driven gear bolts. 8
Fluid cooler line-to-transmission. 25
Fluid cooler line-to-radiator. 20
Linkage swivel clamp nut. 30
Converter bracket-to-adapter. 13
Transmission rear support bolts. 40
Rear mounting-to-support bolts. 21
Support center nut. 33
Adapter-to-transmission bolts. 33

1 General information 2 Identification

Buick Turbo Hydra-Matic transmissions are fully automatic 3- Besides checking the transmission serial number, there is a quick
speed units. These units contain a 3-element hydrokinectic torque way to determine which type of automatic transmissions a particular
converter coupling that is capable of torque multiplication in an vehicle is fitted with. Read the following transmission oil pan descrip¬
infinitely variable ratio between approximately 2:1 and 1:1. tions and see the accompanying illustration to identify the various
In view of the fact that special tools and equipment are needed to models.
carry out overhaul operations on any of the units mentioned in this
Turbo Hydra-Matic 200/250/350
Chapter, it is recommended that the owner take the unit to a
This transmission is a two-piece design with a downshift cable
transmission repair shop. Work performed in a shop is generally done
running from the accelerator to the right side of the transmission case.
at relatively low cost, is guaranteed, and done quickly. Therefore,
The oil pan is square-shaped with one corner angled.
information in this chapter will be restricted to maintenance and
adjustment procedures: also, the removal and installation of the
transmission. This will enable the home mechanic to install the rebuilt, Turbo Hydra-Matic 400
or new, unit at quite a saving over a professional shop. The case of the 400 is also two-piece, but the downshifting is
208 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

electrically controlled from a switch at the carburettor to the left side 3 Set the transmission lever into the 'Park' position.
of the transmission. The oil pan shape elongated and irregular. 4 Move pin to give a 'free pin' fit in the transmission lever and
tighten to 23 ft-lbs.

3 Extension housing oil seal - replacement

6 Turbo Hydra-Matic 250 and 350 - downshift (detent) cable
1 This operation can be carried out without removing the trans¬ replacement
mission from the vehicle.
2 Place the vehicle over a pit or jack it up to gain access to the 1 Install a new seal on the transmission end of the new cable and
transmission. Support the vehicle with jack stands. lubricate the outer edge with transmission fluid.
3 Disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission as described in 2 Connect the cable to the transmission rod, then fasten the cable
Chapter 8. housing to the transmission and tighten the bolt securely.
4 Pry out the defective seal using a screwdriver or chisel as a lever. 3 Attach the cable to the filler tube with the clip. Note that on the
5 Apply jointing compound to the outer edge of the new seal and 250 transmission, the cable should be routed in front of the tube.
drive it into position using a piece of tubing as a drift. 4 Slip the other end of the cable through the engine bracket and
6 Install the driveshaft and check the fluid level in the transmission attach it to the throttle lever on the carburetor. Make sure the locking
unit. tangs expand and lock the cable fitting to the bracket.
5 On 350 transmissions, ensure that the 'snap lock' button is in the
disengaged position (the cable should be free to slide through the
4 Column shift linkage - checking and adjustment 'snap lock' fitting). Next, open the throttle lever on the carburetor to
the wide open position, then push the 'snap lock' button to the
1 To adjust the selector linkage it will first be necessary to release engaged position (flush with the outside of the fitting).
the control clamp and set the transmission lever and the shift lever in 6 On 250 transmission, attach the cable to the bracket with the
the neutral detent. retainer slot in a vertical position. When the throttle lever is opened
2 Assemble the clamp spring washer and screw to the equalizer completely, the cable length will be automatically and permanently
lever and control rod. adjusted.
3 Hold clamp flush against rod. Take care that no pressure in any
direction is exerted on the rod or equalizer lever while you are
tightening the clamp screw.
7 Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 - downshift (detent) switch
4 Tighten the screw to the specified torque.
adjustment

1 The switch is mounted on the accelerator pedal bracket as shown

5 Floorshift linkage - adjustment in the accompanying illustration.
2 Initial adjustment is made by pushing the switch plunger as far as
1 Loosen the cable hookup at the transmission lever. possible. Final adjustment will occur automatically the first time the
2 Position the floorshift lever in the 'Park' detent. accelerator pedal is fully depressed.

TORQUE INTERMEDIATE FORWARD LO AND REVERSE

CONVERTER BAND CLUTCH CLUTCH

PUMP DIRECT ROLLER

CLUTCH CLUTCH

CONTROL VALVE COMPOUND PLANETARY

ASSEMBLY GEAR SET
Fig. 7.13 Sectioned view of the Turbo Hydra-Matic 200 transmission (Sec 1)
 ' 209

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Fig. 7.15 Sectioned view of the Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 transmission (Sec 1)

Hydra-Matic 400) (Sec 2) Fig. 7.17 Typical steering column linkage set-up (Sec 4)
 211

Fig. 7.18 Typical console shift linkage set-up (Sec 5)

Fig. 7.19 250/350 Turbo Hydra-Matic downshift detent cable installation details (Sec 61

V
 212 Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transmission

counterclockwise direction as viewed from the driver's seat.

2 Locate the switch actuating tang in the shifter tube slot and then
tighten the securing screws.
3 Connect the wiring harness and switch on the ignition and check
that the starter motor will actuate.
TRANSMISSION PLUNGER
4 If the switch operates correctly, move the shift lever out of neutral
which will cause the alignment pin (fitted during production of the
switch) to shear.
5 If an old switch is being installed or readjusted, use a pin (0.093
to 0.097 in diameter) to align the hole in the switch with the actuating
tang. Insert the pin to a depth of j inch. Remove the pin before moving
the shift lever out of neutral.

Floor shift
6 This is similar to the procedure just described for column shift
except that the shift lever should be set in 'Park' not 'Neutral'.
7 Access to the switch is obtained after removal of the trim plate
and shift control assembly.

10 Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the battery ground cable and release the parking

brake.
2 Raise the vehicle on a hoist or place it over an inspection pit.
3 Disconnect the speedometer cable, detent cable, electrical leads,
modulator vacuum line and oil cooler pipes, as appropriate.
4 Disconnect the shift control linkage.
5 Disconnect the driveshaft (Chapter 8).
6 Support the transmission with a suitable jack, and disconnect the
rear mount from the frame crossmember.
7 Remove the two bolts at each end of the crossmember then
remove the crossmember.
8 Remove the converter underpan.
9 Loosen the exhaust downpipe bolts at the manifold and unscrew
them about ± inch.
Fig. 7.20 Downshift detent switch (Turbo Hydra-Matic 400)
10 Mark the relationship of the flexplate to the torque converter and
(Sec 7)
then unscrew the connecting bolts. These are accessible through the
front of the torque converter housing but will have to be brought into
8 Turbo Hydra-Matic 200 — T.V. cable replacement view one at a time by applying a wrench to the torsional damper
center bolt.
The procedure for T.V. cable replacement is identical to the 11 Lower the transmission as far as possible without causing any
procedure for Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 downshift detent cable replace¬ engine or transmission components to come into contact with the
ment (refer to Section 6, steps 1 through 5). Note that the cable engine compartment firewall.
should be routed in front of the transmission filler tube. 12 Remove the transmission to engine connecting bolts and remove
the oil filler tube at the transmission.
13 Raise the transmission to its normal position, support the engine
with the jack and slide the transmission rearwards from the engine.
9 Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission - combined neutral
start/back-up lamp/seat belt warning switch adjustment Keep the rear of the transmission downwards so that the converter
does not fall off.
Column shift 14 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but additional¬
ly ensure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the
1 If a new switch is being installed, set the shift lever against the
flexplate and that the converter rotates freely in this position. Tighten
Neutral gate by rotating the lower lever on the shift tube in a
all bolts finger-tight before torque-tightening to the specified value.
Chapter 8 Driveline
Contents

Axleshaft - removal and installation (except B and 0 type General description — clutch. 1
axles). 13 General description - drive shaft. 7
Axleshaft - removal, overhaul and installation (B and 0 type). 16 General description and identification - rear axle. 12
Axleshaft bearing - replacement (except B and 0 type axles) 15 Neutral start switch - removal and installation. 6
Axleshaft oil seal - replacement (except B and 0 type axles) 14 Pinion oil seal (all axles) - replacement. 17
Clutch - adjustment. 2 Positraction (limited slip) type axles - description, testing and
Clutch - removal, servicing and installation. 5 precautions. 18
Clutch cross-shaft - removal and installation. 4 Rear axle assembly - removal and installation. 19
Clutch pedal - removal and installation. 3 Universal joints - dismantling and reassembly. 11
Driveshaft - removal and installation. 10 Universal joints - testing for wear. 8
Driveshaft out-of-balance - correction. 9

Specifications

Clutch
Clutch type. Single dry plate, diaphragm spring
Clutch actuation. Mechanical by rod
Clutch pedal free-play (measured at center of pedal pad) 1.00 ± .3 in
Clutch throwout (release) bearing type. Grease sealed ball

Driveshaft
Driveshaft type. Open, single section, tubular steel with two universal joints and one
slip joint

Rear axle
Rear axle type Salisbury, semi-floating with cast carrier having overhung hypoid
pinion and ring gear. Optional Positraction (limited slip) axle available
on all models
Rear axle ring gear diameter. Varies between 1\, 8-J-inches

Lubricant capacity
Light duty axle. 4.25 pints
Heavy duty axle. 5.4 pints

B and 0 type axles (see Section 17, this Chapter)

Axleshaft endplay. 0.001 to 0.018 (1974 through 1977) 0.001 to 0.020 (1978 through
1980)
Pinion bearing pre-load:
New. 20 to 25 lb-in
Used. 10 to 15 lb-in

Torque specifications ft-lb

Clutch
Clutch pressure plate bolts. 35
Transmission case to clutch bellhousing bolts. 53
Clutch bellhousing to engine bolts. 53
Clutch release to fork-ball. 40
Clutch adjustment locknut. 10

Driveshaft
Universal joint to companion flange 15
214 Chapter 8 Driveline

Rear axle 1974 through 1977 1975 through 1980

ft-lb ft-lb
Differential carrier cover bolts 30 80
Ring gear bolts. 85
Differential bearing cap bolts. 60
Oil filler plug. 20
Differential pinion lock. 20 12

is firmly against the rubber bumper on the dashboard brace. If in doubt

1 General description - clutch
about this, have an assistant check from inside the car.
7 Push the outer end of the clutch fork rearward until the release
All models are fitted with a single dry plate, diaphragm spring-type
bearing lightly contacts the pressure plate fingers.
clutch. Operation is by means of a pendant foot pedal and rod linkage.
8 Keep the fork in this position while the pushrod is removed from
The unit comprises a pressure plate assembly which contains the
its holes in the shaft. Now place the rod in the gauge hole of the shaft,
pressure plate, diaphragm spring and fulcrum rings. The assembly is
directly above the normal operating hole (see accompanying illustra¬
bolted to the rear face of the flywheel. tion).
The driven plate (friction disc) is free to slide along the gearbox
9 With the push rod in the gauge hole, loosen the locking nut and
input shaft and it is held in place between the flywheel and pressure
turn the rod to increase its length. Increase the length of the rod until
plate faces by the pressure exerted by the diaphragm spring. The all lash is removed from the system.
friction lining material is riveted to the driven plate which incorporates
10 Remove the rod from the gauge hole and return it to the lower
a spring-cushioned hub designed to absorb transmission rotational
operating hole in the shaft. Install the retainer and then carefully
shocks and to assist in ensuring smooth take-offs.
tighten the nut, being sure the length of the rod is not changed.
The circular diaphragm spring assembly is mounted on shouldered
1 1 Connect the return spring and check the pedal free-play as
pins and held in place in the cover by fulcrum rings. The spring itself
described previously. Lower the vehicle, then check for correct
is held in place by spring steel clips.
operation and free travel.
Depressing the clutch pedal pushes the throwout-bearing,
mounted on its hub retainer, forward to bear against the fingers of the
diaphragm spring. This action causes the diaphragm spring outer edge
3 Clutch pedal - removal and installation
to deflect and so move the pressure plate rearwards to disengage the
pressure plate from the driven plate.
1 Disconnect the return spring for the clutch pedal.
When the clutch pedal is released, the diaphragm spring forces the
pressure plate into contact with the friction linings of the driven plate 2 Disconnect the clutch pedal push rod where it meets the pedal
and at the same time pushes the drive plate fractionally forward on its arm. This is held in place at the top of the pedal with a lock pin.
splines to ensure full engagement with the flywheel. The driven plate 3 Disconnect the electrical coupler for the neutral start switch. Then
remove the switch from the top of the clutch pedal.
is now firmly sandwiched between the pressure plate and the flywheel
and so the drive is taken up. 4 The pivot shaft which runs through the clutch and brake pedals
must now be removed. It is held in place with a retaining nut on one
end. Remove the nut and slide the shaft until it clears the pedal
support. Now insert a dummy shaft in the support to hold the brake
2 Clutch - adjustment
pedal components in place while the pivot shaft is removed.
5 Remove the pivot shaft, pedal arm and bushings.
1 The free-play at the clutch pedal should be approximately 1 inch.
6 Inspect all parts and replace as necessary. Do not clean the nylon
2 There is only one linkage adjustment to compensate for all normal
bushings with cleaning agent, simply wipe them clean with a cloth.
clutch wear.
Lubricate the bushings and all moving parts.
3 To check for correct adjustment, apply the parking brake, block the
7 To reinstall the pedal, push the bushings into place and then the
front wheels and start the engine. Hold the clutch pedal approximately pivot shaft and pedal arm.
i inch from the floor and move the shift lever between 'First' and
8 Install the retaining nut to the end of the shaft.
'Reverse' gears several times. If the shift is not smooth, clutch
9 Install the neutral start switch and connect its wiring coupler.
adjustment is necessary.
10 Connect the push rod to the pedal arm. Make sure it is securely
4 Raise the car to permit access to the clutch linkage under the car. fastened.
Place firmly on jack stands.
1 1 Connect the return spring and check for free travel. Adjust the
5 Disconnect the return spring at the clutch fork.
components as required.
6 Rotate the clutch lever and shaft assembly until the clutch pedal

4 Clutch cross-shaft - removal and installation

LEVER & 1 Remove the linkage return and lower linkage springs. Disconnect
SHAFT the clutch pedal and fork push rods from their respective cross-shaft
ASSEMBLY levers.
2 Loosen the outboard ball stud nut and slide the stud out of the slot
in the bracket.
3 Move the cross-shaft outboard far enough to clear the inboard ball
stud, then lift it out and remove it from the vehicle.
4 Check the ball stud seats on the cross-shaft, the engine bracket
ball stud assembly and the anti-rattle spring for damage and wear;
replace parts as necessary.
5 When installing, reverse the removal procedure. Lubricate the ball
studs and seat with graphite grease on assembly and finally adjust the
clutch (Section 2).

5 Clutch - removal, servicing and installation

1 Access to the clutch is normally obtained by removing the

Fig. 8.1 Clutch adjustment diagram (Sec 2)
transmission, leaving the engine in the car. If, of course, the engine is
 Chapter 8 Driveline 215

being removed for major overhaul, then the opportunity should always satisfactory. Compare the amount of lining wear with a new clutch
be taken to check the clutch assembly for wear at the same time. disc at the stores in your local service station. If worn, the driven plate
2 Disconnect the clutch fork pushrod and spring then remove the must be replaced.
clutch housing from the engine cylinder block. 12 Check the machined faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate.
3 Slide the clutch fork from the ball stud and remove the fork from If either are grooved they should be machined until smooth, or
the dust boot. replaced.
4 If necessary, the ball stud can be removed from the clutch housing 13 If the pressure plate is cracked or split, it is essential that an
by unscrewing (photo). exchange unit is fitted; also if the pressure of the diaphragm spring is
5 If there are no alignment marks on the clutch cover (an X-mark or suspect, this should be checked and replaced if necessary.
white-painted letter) scribe or center-punch marks for indexing 14 Check the throwout bearing for smoothness of operation. There
purposes during installation. should be no harshness or slackness in it. It should spin reasonably
6 Unscrew the bolts securing the pressure plate and cover assembly freely bearing in mind it has been pre-packed with grease. If in doubt,
one turn at a time in a diagonal sequence to prevent distortion of the replace the bearing with a new one.
clutch cover. 15 It is important that no oil or grease gets on the clutch plate friction
7 With all the bolts and lockwashers removed, carefully lift the linings, or the pressure plate and flywheel faces. It is advisable to
clutch away from the flywheel taking care that the driven plate does replace the clutch with clean hands and to wipe down the pressure
not fall or become damaged. plate and flywheel faces with a clean dry rag before assembly begins.
8 It is not practicable to dismantle the pressure plate assembly and 16 Place the driven plate against the flywheel making sure that the
the term 'dismantling' is usually used for simply fitting a new clutch longer splined boss faces towards the flywheel (thicker torsional spring
driven plate and pressure plate (if necessary). assembly projection towards the transmission).
9 If a new clutch driven plate is being fitted, replace the throwout 17 Install the pressure plate and clutch cover assembly so that the
bearing at the same time. This will preclude having to replace it at a marks made on dismantling are in alignment. Tighten the bolts only
later date when wear on the clutch lining is still very small. finger-tight so that the driven plate is gripped, but can still be slid
10 If the pressure plate assembly requires replacement, an exchange sideways.
unit must be purchased. This will have been accurately set up and 1 8 The clutch plate must now be aligned so that when the engine and
balanced to very fine limits. transmission are mated, the clutch shaft splines will pass through the
1 1 Examine the clutch plate friction linings for wear and loose rivets, splines in the center of the driven plate hub.
and the disc for rim distortion, cracks, broken hub springs, and worn 1 9 Alignment can be carried out quite easily by inserting a round bar
splines. The surface of the friction linings may be highly glazed, but as or long screwdriver through the hole in the center of the clutch, so that
long at the clutch material pattern can be clearly seen this is the end of the bar rests in the small hole in the end of the crankshaft
216
A

DRIVEN PLATE ASSY.

CLUTCH HOUSING PRESSURE PLATE

COVER AND COVER ASSY.

THROWOUT BRG.

CLUTCH FORK

CLUTCH HOUSING-
CLUTCH FORK
BALL STUD
Fig. 8.3 Exploded view of clutch components (Sec 5)

SWITCH

FRICTION
RING

DRIVE
WASHER

Tab must seat

FLANGE FACINGS VIEW A

STOP PIN
Fig. 8.6 Neutral start switch mounting (Sec 6)
CUSHION SPRINGS TORSIONAL
COIL SPRINGS

Fig. 8.4 Cutaway view of the clutch-driven plate (Sec 5)

COAT
this pack this recess
GROOVE \

Fig. 8.5 Sectional view of the elute release (throwout) bearing Fig. 8.7 Typical driveshaft (Sec 7)
(Sec 5]
 Chapter 8 Driveline 217

5.4 Front face of transmission showing the clutch fork ball stud 5.19 Aligning the clutch driven plate using an old drive gear

5.24a Engagement of clutch fork with the throwout bearing 5.24b Rear view of the clutch fork and throwout bearing

containing the input shaft pilot bushing. Ideally an old clutch drive gear
or aligning tool should be used (photo).
20 Using the clutch shaft bearing bushing as a fulcrum, moving the
bar sideways or up and down will move the clutch plate in whichever
direction is necessary to achieve proper alignment.
21 Alignment is easily judged by removing the bar and viewing the
driven plate hub in relation to the hole in the center of the clutch cover
plate diaphragm spring. When the hub appears exactly in the center of
the hole, all is correct. Alternatively, the clutch shaft will fit the bushing
and center of the clutch hub exactly, obviating the need for visual
alignment. On pressure plate covers which have cutaway edges, the
center plate can be centralized simply by lining up its edges with the
edge of the flywheel, just using the fingers.
22 Tighten the clutch cover bolts firmly in a diagonal sequence to
ensure that the cover plate is pulled down evenly and without
distortion to the flange. Torque the bolts to specifications.
23 Lubricate the clutch fork fingers at the throwout bearing end, and
the ball and socket, with a high melting point grease. Also lubricate the
throwout bearing collar and groove.
24 Install the clutch fork and dust boot into the clutch housing and
install the throwout bearing to the fork (photos).
5.24c Clutch fork and throwout bearing installed 25 Install the clutch housing.
26 Install the transmission. Refer to Chapter 2 or Chapter 7, as
necessary.
218 Chapter 8 Driveline

10.2 Marking the position of the driveshaft and 10.3 Hold the driveshaft as the securing bolts 10.5 When reinstalling, be careful not to
universal joint components (all parts must be are loosened damage the seal at the rear of the transmission
installed in their original positions)

27 Connect the fork pushrod and spring, lubricating the spring and holding the rear axle flange when the rear universal joint is being
pushrod ends. checked, and the front half coupling when the front universal joint is
28 Adjust the shift linkage (Chapter 7) and the clutch linkage (Section being checked. Any movement between the shaft and the couplings is
2). indicative of considerable wear.
3 A further test for wear is to attempt to lift the shaft and note any
movement between the yokes of the joints.
6 Neutral start switch - removal and installation 4 If wear is evident, either fit a new driveshaft assembly complete or
replace the universal joints, as described later in this Chapter.
1 This switch is a safety device intended to prevent the vehicle from
being started without the clutch pedal being fully depressed. The small
switch mounts to the clutch pedal mounting bracket and is activated 9 Driveshaft out-of-balance — correction
by a plastic shaft which is part of the switch.
2 Disconnect the electrical coupler at the switch. 1 Vibration of the driveshaft at certain roadspeeds may be caused by
3 Compress the switch actuating shaft retainer and remove the any of the following:
shaft, with the switch attached, from the bracket.
4 To install, slide the switch onto the bracket and make sure the tab a) Undercoating or mud on the shaft
is fully seated. Then rotate the switch actuating shaft until it aligns b) Loose rear strap attachment bolts
with the hole in the clutch pedal arm and pop the shaft into the hole. c) Worn universal joints
5 Connect the electrical coupler to the switch. d) Bent or dented driveshaft
6 The switch is self-aligning, meaning that there is no need for
2 Vibrations which are thought to be emanating from the drive shaft
adjustments.
are sometimes caused by improper tire balance. This should be one of
your first checks.
3 If the shaft is in a good, clean, undamaged condition, it is worth
7 General description - driveshaft disconnecting the rear end attachment straps and turning the shaft
1 80 degrees to see if an improvement is noticed. Be sure to mark the
The driveshaft is of a one piece tubular steel construction having original position of each component before disassembly so the shaft
a universal joint at each end to allow for vertical movement of the rear can be returned to the same location.
axle. At the front end of the shaft is a sliding sleeve which engages 4 If the vibration persists after checking for obvious causes and
with the transmission unit splined output shaft. changing the position of the shaft, the entire assembly should be
The universal joint is retained by a nylon material which is injected checked out by a professional shop or replaced.
into a groove in the yoke during manufacture. This latter type of joint
can be serviced by the use of a repair kit which utilizes snap-rings
inboard of the yoke when the joint is reassembled. Some models may
have snap-rings as original equipment.
10 Driveshaft - removal and installation
Some driveshafts incorporate a vibration damper. This item is not
serviced separately, and in the event of replacement being necessary,
1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on blocks or
the damper and sleeves are to be replaced as an assembly. axle-stands.
The driveshafts are finely balanced during manufacture and it is
2 Mark the relationship of the driveshaft to the companion flange on
recommended that an exchange unit is obtained rather than dismantl¬ the rear axle pinion (photo).
ing the universal joints when wear is evident. However, this is not
3 Disconnect the rear universal joint by unscrewing and removing
always possible and provided care is taken to mark each individual
the nuts from the U-bolts or strap retaining bolts, or by removing the
yoke in relation to the one opposite, then the balance will usually be
flange bolts (photo). Where U-bolts or retaining straps are used, wrap
maintained. Do not drop the assembly during operations.
adhesive tape around the bearing cups to prevent them being
displaced and the needle rollers dropping out.
4 Lower the rear end of the driveshaft and then withdraw the
8 Universal joints - testing for wear complete shaft assembly to the rear. The front splined sliding sleeve
section will be drawn off the transmission output shaft during the
1 Wear in the needle roller bearings is characterized by vibration in removal operation and a small amount of lubricant may be lost from
the transmission, 'clonks' on taking up the drive, and in extreme cases vehicles equipped with manual transmission.
of lack of lubrication, metallic squeaking and ultimately grating and 5 Installation is a reversal of removal but remember to align the
shrieking sounds as the bearings break up. shaft to flange mating marks and take care not to damage the
2 It is easy to check if the needle roller bearings are worn with the transmission extension oil seal with the sliding joint splines (photo).
shaft in position, by trying to turn it with one hand, the other hand 6 Check the transmission oil level when installation is complete.
 Fig. 8.8 Method of attachment of driveshaft to rear axle (Sec 10)

A Strap B Flange C V bolt

Fig. 8.9 Typical rear axle differential cross-section (Sec 12)

9 Gasket 17 Bearing cap

1 Companion flange
10 Differential bearing 18 Axle shaft
2 Deflector
11 'C' lock 19 Thrust washer
3 Pinion oil seal
12 Pinion shaft lock bolt 20 Differential pinion
4 Pinion front bearing
13 Cover 21 Shim
5 Pinion bearing spacer
14 Pinion shaft 22 Pinion rear bearing
6 Differential carrier
15 Ring gear 23 Drive pinion
7 Differential case
16 Side gear
8 Shim
220 Chapter 8 Driveline

13 Repeat the operations on the other two bearing cups.

11 Universal joints - dismantling and reassembly
14 In extreme cases of wear or neglect, it is possible that the bearing
cup housings in the yoke will have worn so much that the cups are a
Cleveland-type joint (snap-ring retainers) loose fit in the yokes. In such cases, replace the complete driveshaft
1 Clean away all dirt from the ends of the bearings on the yokes so assembly.
that the snap-rings can be removed using a pair of snap-ring pliers. If 15 Always check the wear in the sliding sleeve splines and replace
the snap-rings are very tight, tap the end of the bearing cup (inside the the sleeve if worn.
snap-ring) to relieve the pressure (photo).
2 Support the trunnion yoke on a short piece of tube or the open end Saginaw-type joint (plastic retainers)
of a socket then use a suitably sized socket to press out the cross
1 6 Where a Saginaw joint is to be disassembled, the procedure given
(trunnion) by means of a vise (photo).
in the previous section for pressing out the bearing cup is applicable.
3 Press the trunnion through as far as possible then grip the bearing
If the joint has been previously repaired it will be necessary to remove
cup in the jaws of a vise to fully remove it. Repeat the procedure for
the snap-rings inboard of the yokes; if this is to be the first time that
the remaining cups.
servicing has been carried out, there are no snap-rings to remove, but
4 On some models, the slip yoke at the transmission end has a vent
the pressing operation in the vise will shear the plastic molding
hole. When dismantling, ensure that this vent hole is not blocked. material.
5 A universal joint repair kit will contain a new trunnion, seals,
17 Having removed the cross (trunnion), remove the remains of the
bearings, cups and snap-rings.
plastic material from the yoke. Use a small punch to remove the
6 Start reassembly by packing each of the reservoirs at the trunnion material from the injection holes.
ends with lubricant.
18 Reassembly is similar to that given for the Cleveland type joint
7 Make sure that the dust seals are correctly located on the trunnion
except that the snap-rings are installed inside the yoke. If difficulty is
so that the cavities in the seals are nearer the trunnion.
encountered, strike the yoke firmly with a hammer to assist in seating.
8 Using a vise, press one bearing cup into the yoke so that it enters
by not more than one quarter-inch.
9 Using a thick grease, stick each of the needle rollers inside the 12 General description and identification - rear axle
cup.
10 Insert the trunnion into the partially fitted bearing cup taking care The rear axle is of hypoid, semi-floating type. The differential
not to displace the needle rollers. carrier is a casting with a pressed steel cover and the axle tubes are of
11 Stick the needle bearings into the opposite cup and then holding steel construction.
the trunnion in correct alignment, press both cups fully home in the Due to the need for special gauges and equipment and to the fact
jaws of the vise. that individual differential components are no longer supplied (only a
12 Install the new snap-rings. complete rear axle unit) the servicing and repair operations should be

JS)—1NUT
Qw—WASHER
RING
GEAR

\\ \

-SIDE BEARING
CASE

^S. ^ SPACER (fCDV-THRUST

WASHER
OUTER RACE

REAR BEARING
DEPTH SHIM RING GEAR
BOLT

PINION
GEAR
SIDE
BEARING
' PINION GEAR5
Fig. 8.10 Exploded view of typical standard rear axle (Sec 12)
 Chapter 8 Driveline 221

confined to those described in this chapter.

An optional Positraction' (limited slip) differential unit has been
available since the earliest models. Basically, the inclusion of clutch
cones or plates and springs slow the rotation of the differential case
when one wheel is on a firm surface and the other on a slippery one.
This slowing action applies additional force to the pinion gears and
through the medium of the cone which is splined to the axleshafts,
exerts equalizing rotational power to the axleshaft which is driving the
wheel under traction.
In order to be able to undertake certain operations, particularly
removal of the axleshafts, it is important to know the axle identification
number. This is located on the front face of the right-hand axle tube
about 3 inches from the differential cover. After the dirt and road grime
has been brushed away, the code can be read (photo). A typical
General Motors axle code for 1974 and later models will read: 1974
AN B 0852.
The first two letters, in this case AN, are the axle code. By using
this axle code and a ratio chart you can determine the gear ratios
installed in the axle assembly.
The third letter of the code identifies the manufacturer of the axle.
This is important, as axle design varies slightly between manufac¬
turers. This single-letter code will be one of the following: B-Buick, C-
11.1 Removing the snap-rings from the bearing cap surface Chevrolet (Buffalo), G-Chevrolet gear and axle, K-GM of Canada, M-
GM of Canada, O-Oldsmobile or P-Pontiac. Manufacturers code letters
B or 0, indicate that the wheel bearings are pressed onto the
axleshafts whereas all other letters have bearings pressed into the axle
tubes and the axleshafts are retained with C-locks.
Following the manufacturer's code letter will be varying numbers
which indicate which day of the year that the axle was built. The
numbers 1 or 2 following the date code represents day or night shift.

Axle housing

11.2 Pressing out the trunnion (cross) using a vise and sockets (one
socket should be slightly smaller than the bearing cup and the
socket on the other side should be slightly larger)

Axie shaft N»

Brake / \
backing plate \ \

A \\
Brake drum I \

1 2.4 The rear axle identification number stamped onto the surface Fig. 8.11 Sectional view of standard (not B and O) rear hub
of the right axle tube bearing and axleshaft (Sec 13)
222 Chapter 8 Driveline

. V
13.4 The pinion shaft lock-screw and the pinion shaft being removed 13.5 The C-lock being withdrawn from the differential
from the differential assembly

14.2a After the brake components are removed, the oil seal is visible 14.2b The splined end of the axleshaft can be used to pry the seal out
of position

13 Axleshaft - removal and installation (except B and O type

axles)

1 The following operations apply to rear axles which have the wheel
bearings pressed into the ends of the axle casing tubes (third letters of
axle code - C, G, K, P, M).
2 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely and remove the
wheel and brake drum.
3 Unscrew and remove the pressed steel cover from the differential
carrier and allow the oil to drain into a suitable container.
4 Unscrew and remove the lock screw from the differential pinion
shaft. Remove the pinion shaft (photo).
5 Push the outer (flanged) end of the axleshaft inwards and remove
the C-ring from the inner end of the shaft (photo).
6 Withdraw the axleshaft taking care not to damage the oil seal in
the end of the axle housing as the splined end of the axleshaft passes
through it.
7 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten the lock screw to
the specified torque.
8 Always use a new cover gasket and tighten the cover bolts to the 14.3 The new seal should be driven into place, flush with the axle
specified torque. casing
9 Refill the unit with the correct quantity and grade of lubricant.
 Chapter 8 Driveline 223

4 Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing using a
14 Axleshaft oil seal - replacement (except B and 0 type axles)
piece of tubing applied against the outer bearing track. Lubricate the
new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped
1 Remove the axleshaft as described in the preceding Section.
in to the full depth of its recess and that the numbers on the bearing
2 Pry out the old oil seal from the end of the axle casing, using a
are visible from the outer end of the casing.
large screwdriver or the inner end of the axleshaft itself as a lever
(photos). 5 Discard the old oil seal and install a new one and install the
axleshaft.
3 Apply high melting point grease to the oil seal recess and tap the
seal into position so that the lips are facing inwards and the metal face
is visible from the end of the axle housing. When correctly installed,
the face of the oil seal should be flush with the end of the axle casing 16 Axleshaft - removal, overhaul and installation (B and O type)
(photo).
4 Installation of the axleshaft is as described in the preceding Note: Design specifications allow for a maximum of 0.020 (0.018 on
Section. 1974-1977), inches of end play on the axle shaft. If shaft end plate is
excessive it will be necessary to replace the shaft bearing and seals.
1 To check for excessive end play, jack up the car and remove the
wheel and the brake drum. Attach a dial gauge with its stem against
the shaft's end flange. Move the shaft in and out by hand. If the play
15 Axleshaft bearing - replacement (except B and O type axles) exceeds the maximum, the shaft bearing is probably worn.
2 To remove the shaft, unbolt the nuts that hold the retaining plates
1 Remove the axleshaft (Section 14) and the oil seal (Section 15). to the brake backing plates. Pull the retainers clear of the backing
2 A bearing extractor will now be required or a tool made up which plates and reinstall 2 opposite nuts (finger-tight) to hold the backing
will engage behind the bearing. plate in position.
3 Attach a slide hammer and extract the bearing from the axle 3 Attach a slide hammer to the wheel mounting studs and withdraw
casing. the shaft. Do not attempt to pull the shaft by hand, you'll pull the

Fig. 8.12 Using a slide hammer to remove a B and O type

axleshaft (Sec 16)

INNER
RETAINER

RETAINER
(OUTER)
BEARING SEAL

Fig. 8.14 Spreading the bearing retaining ring on B and O type

axleshaft (Sec 16)

Fig. 8.13 B and O type axleshaft components (Sec 16)

V J
 224 Chapter 8 Driveline

THESE PARTS MAY

REMAIN IN THE
HOUSING
20 FT. LBS.

CLUTCH CONE/
SIDE GEAR
THESE PARTS
SPRING
MAY BE REMOVED
BLOCK
WITH THE SHAFT
PINION
THRUST
Fig. 8.1 5 Axle-bearing components on B and O type axleshaft WASHER
(Sec 16)
vehicle off the jack stands.
4 Both the shaft bearing and the bearing retainer ring are fitted to
the shaft with a heavy press and both must be removed to replace the
seal. Tighten the shaft in a vise so that the retainer ring rests on the
vise jaws. Using a cold chisel and a hammer, crack the ring in two
places. This will spread the ring so that it will slide off the shaft. Take
care not to score the shaft. Do not try to torch the ring off as this will
ruin the temper of the shaft. SPRING
5 Using a suitable press, extract the bearing from the shaft.
6 Remove and discard the seal.
7 Reinstall the retainer plate on the shaft. Put a small amount of
grease between the lips of the seal and install the seal. Press on the
bearing and the retaining ring against it.
8 Apply gear lubricant to the splines at the inner end of the shaft and
put bearing grease on the bearing end and the bearing recess in the
axle housing tube.
9 Insert the axleshaft through the housing. You'll be able to feel
when the splines on the shaft contact the differential side gears. You
may have to turn the shaft back and forth a bit, while pushing, to get
it seated. If the shaft cannot be pushed fully into position, use a soft-
faced mallet and strike the end flange a couple of times to seat the
shaft.
10 Bolt the retainer plate the the backing plate, install the drake drum
and wheel.

17 Pinion oil seal (all axles) - replacement

1 Place the vehicle over an inspection pit or raise the rear end to
provide adequate working clearance.
2 Disconnect the driveshaft as described in Section 10 and tie it to
the body sideframe. Do not allow it to slide out of the transmission.
3 Using a torque wrench check the torque required to rotate the Fig. 8.16 Cone-type limited slip differential (Sec 18)
pinion and record this for use later.
4 Scribe or dot punch alignment marks on the pinion stem, nut and
flange so that they can be refitted in the same relative position. screw on the pinion nut to force the flange fully home on the stem. On
5 Count the number of threads visible between the end of the nut no account, attempt to hammer the flange home.
and the end of the pinion stem and record for use later. 12 Smear a non-hardening jointing compound on the ends of the
6 A suitable tool must now be used to hold the pinion flange quite splines which are visible in the center of the companion flange so that
still while the self-locking pinion nut is removed. This can easily be any oil seepage will be sealed in.
made by drilling two holes at the end of a length of flat steel bar and 13 Install the thrust-washer and nut but tighten the nut carefully so
bolting it to the frame. that the original number of threads is exposed.
7 Unscrew and remove the pinion nut. 1 4 Now measure the torque required to rotate the pinion and tighten
8 Withdraw the companion flange. If this is tight, use a two or three the nut fractionally until the figure compares with that recorded before
legged extractor engaged behind the flange. On no account attempt to dismantling. In order to compensate for the drag of the new oil seal,
lever behind the deflector or to hammer on the end of the pinion stem. the nut should be further tightened so that the rotational torque of the
9 Pry out the old seal and discard it. pinion exceeds that recorded before dismantling by between 1 and 5
10 Lubricate the lips of a new seal with extreme pressure lithium Ibf-in. The rotational torque (pinion bearing preload) is normally
based grease and tap it into position making sure that it enters the between 1 5 and 30 lb-in with new bearings and 1 0 and 1 5 lb-in with
housing squarely and to its full depth. bearings which have been in service.
1 1 Align the mating marks made before dismantling and install the 15 Reconnect the driveshaft, install the brake drum and wheel and
companion flange. If necessary, use a piece of tubing as a spacer and lower the vehicle.
 Chapter 8 Driveline 225

Fig. 8.17 'P' type limited slip rear ax>e (Sec 18) Fig. 8.18 Disc-type limited slip rear axle (Sec 18)

18 Positraction (limited slip) type axles - description, testing and 19 Rear axle assembly - removal and installation
precautions
1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on stands
1 This type of axle incorporates a special type of differential unit. placed under the body frame rails.
Essentially the device provides more driving force to the wheel with 2 Position an adjustable floor jack under the differential housing and
traction when one wheel begins to spin. just take up the weight. Do not raise sufficiently to take the weight of
2 Two types of assembly are used, one having clutch plates and the the vehicle from the frame stands.
other having cones. Some makes of Positraction are not repairable and 3 Disconnect the lower shock absorber mountings (Chapter 11).
in the event of a fault occurring or wear developing, the complete 4 Remove the driveshaft.
assembly must be replaced. 5 Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. See Chapter 9 for
3 An on-vehicle check can be carried out in the following way. If information if difficulty is experienced in removing the brake drums.
equipped with manual transmission, shift into 'Neutral'. 6 Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines from their clips on the axle
4 Raise the rear of the vehicle until the wheels are off the ground. housing.
7 Unbolt and remove the differential cover, allowing the fluid to
Remove one wheel.
5 Using a suitable adaptor connect a torque wrench to the axleshaft drain into a suitable container.
8 Remove the axleshafts as described in Section 13 or Section 16
flange. Alternatively, a spring balance can be used.
6 Have an assistant hold the wheel still in position on the opposite of this Chapter, depending on type.
9 Depending on axle type, unbolt the brake backing plates, carefully
hub quite firmly to prevent it from rotating, then measure the torque
required to start the axleshaft (opposite to the one to which the torque withdraw the brake assemblies and wire them up to the frame without
wrench is attached) moving. A minimum of 40 Ib-ft should be required bending the hydraulic pipes or disconnecting them.
for an axle which has seen considerable service and 70 Ib-ft for a new, 10 Remove the leaf springs as described in Chapter 1 1.
11 Withdraw the axle assembly from under the vehicle.
or nearly new assembly.
7 Always use fluid lubricant for topping up a Positraction type axle. 12 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten all suspension bolts
8 Never run the engine when one rear wheel is off the ground as the and nuts to the specified torque (refer to Chapters 9 and 1 1). Fill the
axle assembly with the proper grade and amount of lubricant (see
vehicle may obtain traction through the remaining wheel and jump off
Specifications, this Chapter, and Chapter 1).
the jacks or support stands.
 Chapter 9 Braking system
Contents

Brake pedal - removal and installation.

13 Maintenance and inspection. 2
Disc and drum — inspection and servicing.
12 Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation . 8
Disc caliper - overhaul.
6 Parking brake - adjustment. 15
Disc caliper (rear) - removal.
Parking brake pedal - removal and installation. 16
Disc pads - inspection and replacement.
Power brake booster — general description. 17
Drum brakes - lining inspection and replacement.
3 Power brake booster - removal and installation. 18
General description.
1 Stop lamp switch - replacement and adjustment. 14
Hydraulic brake hoses - inspection, removal and installation
9 Wheel cylinder (drum brake) - removal, overhaul and
Hydraulic system - bleeding.
11 installation.
Hydraulic system pressure valves and switches. 5
io .

Specifications

System type
Four wheel hydraulic, dual circuit. All models, 1974 through 1980
have front disc brakes as standard with rear drum brakes. Optional
four-wheel disc brakes were available from 1977 through 1980.

Drum size
1974 through 1980 (except 1976)
9.5 x 2 in
1976 .
11 x 2 in

Refinishing data (drums)

Maximum refinish internal diameter
9.560 in
Wear limit.
9.590 in
Maximum out-of-round.
0.002 in

Refinishing data (rotors) original refinish wear limit

Front rotor thickness.
1.040 in 0.980 in 0.965 in
Rear rotor thickness.
0.974 in 0.921 in 0.9055 in
Maximum thickness variation ...
0.0005 in
Maximum runout (warp). 0.004 in

Torque specifications ft-lb in-lb

Master cylinder-to-dash
1 974 through 1977 . 24
1978 through 1 980.
15
Master cylinder-to-booster. 24
Booster-to-dash
1974 through 1977 .
24
1978 .
13
1979 and 1980.
15
Bleeder valves
1974 through 1977 .
5
1978 through 1980.
140
Wheel cylinder-to-flange.
15
Caliper mounting bolt.
35
Flexible hose-to-caliper
1974 through 1976 . 22
1977 and 1978..
32
1979 and 1980 .
18
Shield-to-steering knuckle
1 974 through 1 977 .
10
1978 through 1 980 .
Brake hose-to-caliper
120
1974 through 1 977 . 22
1 978 through 1 980. 32
 Chapter 9 Braking system 227

1 General description 3 Drum brakes - lining inspection and replacement

The hydraulic system comprises two separate front and rear 1 Jack up the rear of the vehicle and remove the roadwheel. Fully
circuits. release the parking brake.
The master cylinder is of tandem type with separate reservoirs for 2 Mark the position of the brake drum in relation to one of the wheel
two circuits and in the event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic studs so that the drum can be installed in the same relative attitude.
braking circuit, the other circuit will remain fully operative. A visual 3 Remove the brake drums. If the brake drums are stuck tight due
warning of circuit failure or air in the system is given by a warning to severe wear (causing the shoes to be 'locked' in grooves in the drum
lamp activated by displacement of the piston in the brake distribution interior) and cannot be removed by gently tapping with a soft faced
(pressure differential warning) switch from its normal 'in balance' hammer or hardwood block, then the lanced area of the brake drum
position. must be chiselled or knocked out. Rotate the drum until the adjuster
The parking brake operates mechanically to the rear brakes only. lever can be released from the sprocket by pulling it outwards with a
It is operated by a foot operated pedal to the left of the steering thin rod inserted through the aperture. The sprocket can then be
column. backed-off to release the drum. Note: If the lanced area in the drum
A combination valve is fitted into the hydraulic circuit and provides is knocked out, ensure that all metal is removed from the brake
the following three services: compartment. Install a metal hole cover afterwards to prevent con¬
Metering valve: This prevents the front disc brakes from operating tamination of the brakes.
until the rear shoes have contacted the drum. 4 Brush away any accumulations of dust, taking great care not to
Failure warning switch: This switch operates if either front or rear inhale it as it contains asbestos and is injurious to health.
brakes fail to operate and a dash warning lamp then operates. 5 Inspect the thickness of the friction material. If it has worn down
Proportioner: This reduces rear brake system pressure during rapid to within ^ in of the lining rivets or the metal backing plate of the shoe,
deceleration, reducing the tendency for rear wheel skidding. then the shoes must be replaced (photo). It is recommended that new
A power brake booster, which utilizes engine manifold vacuum or factory exchange shoes are obtained rather than attempt to reline
and atmosphere pressure to provide assistance to the hydraulically the old ones yourself. Perform work on one brake assembly at a time,
operated brakes, is available as an option. using the other side for reference.
All brakes are self adjusting. 6 Unhook the brake shoe pull-back springs from the anchor pin and
link end (photos).
7 Remove the actuator return spring, the link, the hold-down pins
2 Maintenance and inspection and the springs (photo).
8 Remove the actuator assembly but do not dismantle unless parts
1 See Chapter 1 for maintenance and inspection procedures are broken.
 3.5 Measuring the thickness of the brake shoe 3.6a Use a brake service tool to disconnect the 3.6b The return spring for the secondary (rear)
lining return spring for the primary brake shoe (a shoe also has a stiff wire link
screwdriver can be used to pry the spring loose)

3.7 To remove anchor spring assemblies, 3.9 The primary shoe is held to the secondary 3.1 Oa Removing the parking brake strut which
compress the spring and then turn the end of shoe by a spring located just behind the runs between the shoes, behind the axle flange
the pin at the center of the spring adjusting "starwheel" (pay attention to how it is installed)

3.10b Pliers are used to disconnect the 3.14 After lubricating the parking brake cable, 3.1 5a Grease should be applied to the raised
secondary shoe from the parking brake cable pull back the spring and connect the lever portions of the backing plate to prevent
squeaks (these areas contact the brake shoes)

3.1 5b Grease is also applied to the anchor pin 3.1 5c The adjustment "starwheel" should be 3.1 9a The actuating spring is located just
lubricated to ensure easy adjustment ahead of the parking brake lever
 Chapter 9 Braking system 229

9 Separate the brake shoes. This is achieved by removing the

adjustment screw and spring. If the shoes are to be re-installed, mark
the positions in which they are fitted (photo).
10 Remove the parking brake lever from the secondary brake shoe
(photos).
1 1 If there is any sign of hydraulic oil leakage at the wheel cylinders,
the cylinder should be replaced or overhauled.
12 Check the flange plate attaching bolts for tightness. Clean any rust
and dirt from the shoe contact faces on the flange plate.
13 When installing, ensure that no grease or oil contact the linings
and that they are free from nicks and burrs.
14 Lubricate the parking brake cable and the fulcrum end of the
parking brake lever with brake lube. Attach the lever to the secondary
shoe and ensure that it moves freely (photo).
15 Put a smear of brake lube on the contact point of the pads and
flange plate, and the threads of the brake adjusting screw (photos).
16 Connect the brake shoes together with the adjusting screw spring,
then place the screw, socket and nut in position. Note: Adjusting
screws are marked 1' or R' (left or right side of vehicle). The sprocket
(star-wheel) should only be installed next to the secondary shoe and
the adjusting screw spring inserted to prevent interference with the
Fig. 9.2 Adjusting brake shoes inward to remove a stuck brake
sprocket. Ensure that the sprocket lines up with the adjusting hole in
drum (Sec 3)
the flange plate.
17 Connect the parking brake cable to the lever.
18 Secure the primary shoe (short lining forward) first with the hold
down pin and spring using pliers, and at the same time engage the
shoes with the wheel cylinder connecting links.
19 Install the actuator assembly and secondary shoe with the hold
down pin and spring using needle-nosed pliers. Position the parking
brake strut and strut spring (photo).
20 Install the guide plate over the anchor pin, then install the wire
link. The wire link is connected to the actuator assembly first then
placed over the anchor pin stud while holding the adjuster assembly
fully down (photo).
21 Install the actuator return spring, easing it in place with a
screwdriver or similar tool.
22 Hook the pull back springs into the shoes then install the spring
from the primary shoe over the anchor pin and then the spring from the
secondary shoe over the wire link end (photo).
23 Ensure that the actuating lever functions by moving it by hand,
then turn the sprocket back 1^ turns to retract the shoes (photos).
24 Install the drum and roadwheel, ensuring that the drum locating
tang is in line with the locating lobe in the hub.
25 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
26 Make numerous forward and reverse stops to finally adjust the
brakes, until a satisfactory pedal action results.
Fig. 9.3 Using a C' clamp to depress the caliper piston (Sec 4)

4 Disc pads - inspection and replacement

1 At the intervals specified in Chapter 1, remove the front road-

wheels and inspect the thickness of the pad material remaining. Check
the ends of the outboard shoes by looking in at each end of the caliper.
The inboard shoe can be checked by looking down through the
inspection hole at the top of the caliper. Pads should be replaced when
they are worn down to ^ inch thickness over the rivet heads.
2 In addition to the visual inspection, all models are equipped with
an audible warning device which will indicate that the disc pads have
worn down to their safe limit. The device is essentially a spring steel
tang which emits a squeal by rubbing on the disc when the friction
material has worn down to 0.030 in.
3 To replace the disc pads, first check that the brake fluid reservoir
is no more than -j- full. Siphon off fluid above this level and discard it.
Note: To replace the rear disc pads on a 4-wheel disc system, refer to
Section 7 for disc caliper removal.
4 Raise the front end of the vehicle and remove the wheels. Perform
disc pad replacement on one brake brake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
5 Push the piston back into its bore. If necessary a C-clamp can be
used but a flat bar will usually do the job. As the piston is depressed
to the bottom of the caliper bore, so the fluid in the master cylinder
reservoir will rise. Ensure that it does not overflow.
6 Using an Allen key remove the 2 mounting bolts which attach the
M LUBRICATE AREAS INDICATED

caliper to the support, then lift off the caliper (photo).

7 Remove the shoes, then position the caliper so that the brake hose
Fig. 9.4 Caliper lubrication points (Sec 4)
will not have to support the caliper weight. If the disc pads are to be
230 Chapter 9 Braking system

re-installed, mark their position (photo).

8 Remove the shoe support spring from the piston.
9 Remove the 2 sleeves from the inboard ears of the caliper.
10 Remove the 4 rubber bushings from the grooves in each caliper
ear (photo).
11 Clean the holes and bushing grooves in the caliper ears.
12 Examine the inside of the caliper for signs of fluid leakage. If
evident, the caliper should be overhauled.
13 When installing, ensure that the caliper is clean and that the dust
boot is undamaged.
14 Lubricate new sleeves, rubber bushings, bushing grooves and the
end of the mounting bolts using Delco Silicone Lube or equivalent.
15 Install the rubber bushings on the caliper ears (photo).
1 6 Install the sleeves to the inboard ears so that the end towards the
shoe is flush with the machine surface of the ear.
1 7 Install the shoe support spring and inboard shoe in the center off
the piston cavity. Push down until the shoe is flat against the caliper.
18 Position the outboard shoe in the caliper with the ears at the top
of the shoe over the caliper ears and the tab at the bottom of the shoe
engaged in the caliper cutout. If equipped with wear sensor, it will go
towards the rear of the caliper (photo).
19 With the shoes installed, lift up the caliper and rest the bottom
edge of the outboard lining on the outer edge of the disc to make sure
that no clearance exists between the tab at the bottom and the caliper
abutment.
Fig. 9.5 Installing disc shoe support spring (Sec 4) 20 Position the caliper over the disc, lining up the holes in the caliper
ears and mounting bracket.
21 Install the mounting bolts, ensuring that they pass under the
retaining ears of the inboard shoe and through the holes in the
outboard shoe and caliper ears, then into the mounting bracket.
22 Torque-tighten the mounting bolts to 35 ft-lb.
23 Pump the brake pedal to seat the linings on the disc then bend the
upper ears of the outboard shoe until no radial clearance exists
between the shoe and the caliper housing.
24 Install the front wheel and lower the vehicle.
25 Service the other side using the same procedures.
26 Add brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir until it is ^ inch
from the top.
26 Pump the brake pedal several times until a satisfactory pedal
action is obtained then top up the master cylinder reservoir again (if
necessary).

5 Wheel cylinder (drum brake) - removal, overhaul and

installation

1 Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel.

2 Remove the brake drum. See 'Note' in Section 3.
3 Clean around the hydraulic connection to the wheel cylinder then
disconnect the line. Plug the end of the line to prevent fluid loss and
dirt contamination.
4 Remove the brake shoe pull-back springs.
5 Remove the cylinder-to-flange plate securing screws and dis¬
Fig. 9.6 Releasing the retainers on a late-model wheel cylinder engage the pushrods from the brake shoes. Remove the cylinder
(Sec 5) (photo). On late models, the cylinder is attached by retainers. Two
sharp awls must be used to release the tabs (see Fig. 9.6).
BOOT 6 Using pliers, remove the boots from the cylinder and discard them.

«
/ PISTON 7 Remove and discard the piston cups.
/ PISTON CUP 8 Inspect the cylinder bore and pistons for corrosion and pitting.
/ CUP RETURN SPRING Discard if pitted, but where there is staining, the surface may be
WITH EXPANDERS polished with crocus cloth working around the circumference (not
along the length).
WHEEL CYLINDER
HOUSING 9 Ensure your hands are clean, dry and free from grease, gasoline,
kerosene or cleaning solvents then clean the metal parts in new brake
fluid or denatured alcohol.
10 Shake off the surplus fluid for ease of handling.
PISTON CUP
1 1 Lubricate the cylinder with clean brake fluid and insert the spring
/ PISTON expander assembly.

r LM / BOOT 12 Insert new cups which must be clean and dry and not lubricated.
The flat surface must be forward to enter ends of the cylinder. Use only

9
BLEEDER SCREW the fingers to manipulate the cups.
1 3 Install the pistons, flat surface uppermost. Do not lubricate them
before installation.
14 Press new boots into the cylinder counterbores. Do not lubricate
Fig. 9.7 Exploded view of typical drum brake wheel cylinder
them before installation.
(Sec 5)
1 5 When installing the wheel cylinder, position the wheel cylinder on
 * f*
3.1 9b The parking brake strut has recesses in 3.20 Use the brake tool or a screwdriver to 3.22 The installed position of the primary shoe
it to fit in the brake shoe cutouts force the wire link over the anchor Din return spring

3.23a The adjusting mechanism sprocket is 3.23b The brakes are adjusted by lifting the
4.6 An Allen head wrench is needed to remove
specifically designed for either right-hand or lever away from the sprocket and turning the
the caliper mounting bolts from the inboard
left-hand operation.Do not mix from side to adjusting mechanism (the brakes do this side
side automatically when the car goes into
'Reverse')

4.7 Once the caliper is removed from the rotor, 4.10 Rubber sleeves are located inside grooves 4.1 5 Lubricate the caliper bushings and push
the pads are easily pulled from the caliper and can be pried out with a screwdriver for them into position
replacement

4.18 The outboard shoe is installed with its 5.5 The two screws which mount the wheel
flange in the caliper cutout area cylinder are located on the inboard side of the
backing plate (early models only)
 232

CALIPER ASSEMBLY

OUTBOARD
BRAKE SHOE

PISTON

INBOARD
DUST BOOT SPRING BRAKE SHOE

Fig. 9.8 Exploded view of caliper brake assembly (Sec 6)

6.1 1 The piston boot should be installed in the groove, with the fold 6.12 Forcing the piston back into the caliper
toward the open end of the piston
 Chapter 9 Braking system 233

the brake flange plate and install screws loosely. If equipped with
locking tabs instead of mounting screws, follow this procedure:
a) Hold the wheel cylinder against the backing plate by inserting
a wood block between the cylinder and the axle flange
b) Press a new retaining dip over the wheel cylinder with the
tabs away from and horizontal to the backing plate. Use a I
- | in, 12-point socket to firmly lock the retainer. Both tabs
should be fully engaged
16 Install the pushrods and pull-back springs, then connect the
hydraulic line to the cylinder, moving the cylinder as necessary to
prevent stripping the threads.
17 Tighten the cylinder mounting screws.
18 Install the brake drum and wheel.
19 Bleed the braking system (Section 10) then lower the vehicle to
the ground.

6 Disc caliper - overhaul

1 Remove the disc pads as described in Section 4. Disconnect the

brake flexible hose from the rigid brake line at the support bracket. Cap
the line to prevent loss of fluid.
2 Unbolt and remove the caliper (also as described in Section 4)
complete with flexible hose. Unscrew the hose from the caliper noting
Fig. 9.9 Typical master cylinder mounting (Sec 8)
the copper sealing gaskets which should be replaced with new ones
when the hose is reconnected.
3 To disassemble, clean the exterior of the caliper using brake fluid
(never use gasoline, kerosene or cleaning solvents) then place the
assembly on a clean workbench.
4 Drain the fluid from the caliper and then place a cloth pad between RESERVE COVER
the caliper piston and body then apply air pressue to the fluid inlet hole RESERVOIR DIAPHRAGM
to free the piston; a small hand pump is adequate. If this method
proves unsuccessful at dislodging the piston, hydraulic fluid pressure RESERVOIR
must be used. With the brake pads removed, reconnect the caliper to
the brake line on the vehicle and have an assistant slowly depress the
brake pedal. The fluid will force the piston out of its bore. Be careful
that the piston is not damaged. RESERVOIR GROMMET
5 Carefully pry the dust boot out of the caliper bore.
6 Using a small piece of wood or plastic, remove the piston seal
from its groove in the caliper piston bore. Metal objects may cause
bore damage.
7 Remove the caliper bleeder valve, then remove and discard the 'MASTER
CYLINDER
sleeves and bushings from the caliper ears. Also discard all rubber
PRIMARY "'C'^'SPRING B0DY
parts. PISTON V. SPRING RETAINER
8 Clean the remaining parts in brake fluid. Allow them to drain and ASSEMBLY PRIMARY SEAL
then shake them vigorously to remove as much fluid as possible. SECONDARY PISTON
LOCK
RING^ SECONDARY SEAL
9 Carefully examine the piston for scoring, nicks and burrs and loss
of plating. If surface defects are present, parts must be replaced. Check
the caliper bore in a similar way, but light polishing with crocus cloth
is permissible to remove light corrosion and stains. Discard the
mounting bolts if they are corroded or damaged.
Fig. 9.10 Exploded view of a typical power brake master cylinder
10 When assembling, lubricate the piston bores and seal with clean
(Sec 8)
brake fluid; position the seal in the caliper bore groove.
11 Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid then assemble a new
boot in the piston groove with the fold towards the open end of the
RESERVOIR FOR RESERVOIR FOR
piston (photo).
12 Insert the piston squarely into the caliper bore then apply force to
bottom the piston in the bore (photo).
13 Position the dust boot in the caliper counterbore then use a
suitable drift to drive it into its location (GM tool no J-22904 is
available for this purpose). Ensure that the boot is installed below the
caliper face and evenly all round.
14 Install the bleeder screw.
1 5 The remainder of the procedure for installation is the reverse of the
removal procedure. Always use new copper gaskets when connecting
the brake hose and finally bleed the system of air (Section 10).

7 Disc caliper (rear) - removal

Note: Steps 6 and 9 are unnecessary if the caliper is being removed

for overhaul. These steps can be done when the caliper unit is on the Fig. 9.11 Typical hydraulic system in a master cylinder (Sec 8)
bench.
1 Drain 2/3 of the fluid from the reserve chamber of the master
cylinder for the rear. Be careful not to spill any brake fluid on the
 234 Chapter 9 Braking system

8 Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

As many types and sizes of master cylinders were installed on the

Regal and Century, it may be wise to take all components with you to
the auto parts store for proper fitting.
1 Remove the hydraulic lines at the master cylinder (photo). Collect
any fluid spillage with dry cloths and plug the ends of the hydraulic
lines to prevent fluid loss or dirt from entering the system.
2 On manual brakes, disconnect the pushrod at the brake pedal
inside the car.
3 Unbolt and remove the master cylinder from the firewall or power
booster. Be careful that no brake fluid is accidently dripped on any
painted surface as it will ruin the finish.
4 Drain all fluid from the master cylinder and place the unit in a vise.
Use wood blocks to cushion the jaws of the vise.
5 On manual brakes remove the pushrod retaining ring.
6 Remove the secondary stop bolt from the bottom of the front fluid
reservoir (Delco Moraine) or from the base of the master cylinder body
(Bendix) (photo).
7 Remove the retaining ring from the groove and take out the
Fig. 9.12 Exploded view of a Delco secondary piston (Sec 8) primary piston assembly (photo). Following the primary piston out of
the bore will be the secondary piston, spring and retainer. A piece of
bent stiff wire can be used to draw these assemblies out of the cylinder
bore (photo).
Note: Some models have a removable reservoir which can be pried off
the main cylinder body during overhaul.
8 Examine the inside surface of the master cylinder and the
SWITCH secondary piston. If there is evidence of scoring or bright' wear areas,
TERMINAL the entire master cylinder should be replaced with a new one.
9 If the components are in good condition, wash in clean hydraulic
FROM MASTER FROM MASTER CYLINDER
fluid. Discard all the rubber components and the primary piston.
Purchase a rebuild kit which will contain all the necessary parts for the
overhaul.
TO REAR 10 Inspect the tube seats which are located in the master cylinder
BRAKES body where the fluid pipes connect. If they appear damaged they
TO FRONT should be replaced with new ones which come in the overhaul kit.
BRAKES They are forced out of the body by threading a screw into the tube and
then prying outwards (photo). The new ones are forced into place
using a spare brake line nut (photo). All parts necessary for this should
be included in the rebuild kit.
1 1 Place the new secondary seals in the grooves of the secondary
piston (photo).
Fig. 9.13 Combination valve and switch (Sec 10) 1 2 Assemble the primary seals and seal protector over the end of the
secondary piston.
finished surfaces of the automobile. 13 Lubricate the cylinder bore and secondary piston with hydraulic
2 Jack up the car and remove the rear wheel. Mark the positioning fluid (photo). Insert the spring retainer into the spring then place the
between the wheel and the axle flange. Reinstall one of the wheel retainer and spring over the end of the secondary piston (photos). The
nuts-flat side to rotor-to keep the rotor in the proper position. retainer should locate inside the primary seal lips.
3 Loosen tension on the parking brake cable at the equalizer bracket. 14 With the master cylinder vertical, push the secondary piston into
Do this by grasping the cable stud with a pair of vise-type pliers and the bore to seat its spring (photo).
loosening the nut with a wrench. 1 5 Coat the seals of the primary piston with brake fluid and fit it into
4 Remove the cable from the parking brake lever at the wheel. the cylinder bore. Hold it down while the retaining ring is installed in
5 Remove the spring and conduit bracket on rear disc assembly by the cylinder groove.
compressing the prongs. 1 6 Continue to hold the piston down while the stop screw is installed.
6 Holding the lever-arm in place, remove the lock nut, lever, lever 17 Install the reservoir diaphragm into the reservoir cover plate
seal, anti-friction washer, and return spring. Clean away any dirt in the making sure it is fully collapsed inside the recessed lid.
area of the lever seal. 1 8 Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, torque¬
7 Use a "C" clamp with a minimum opening of seven inches; put the tightening the attaching nuts to specifications.
firm end of the clamp on the lever-stop and the screw end on the back 1 9 Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid and bleed the master
of the outer lining assembly. Tighten the clamp until the piston cylinder and complete hydraulic system as outlined in Section 11.
bottoms in the unit.
8 Lube the housing surface (located under the lever seal) with
silicone. Install a new anti-friction washer, new lever seal and the
lever. Make sure the lever points downward when it is installed on the 9 Hydraulic brake hoses — inspection, removal and installation
hex nut.
9 Rotate the lever toward the car's front end and while holding it in 1 Periodically, examine all hydraulic brake lines, both rigid and
this position, install nut and torque to 25 Ib-ft. Rotate lever back to flexible, for rusting, chafing and general deterioration. Also check the
original position. security of the connections.
10 Replace the lever return spring and remove "C" clamp. 2 If the hoses or pipes have to be disconnected, extensive loss of
1 1 Disconnect the brake line from the caliper and plug the line to fluid can be avoided if the vent holes in the master cylinder fluid
prevent fluid loss. reservoir cap are taped over to create a vacuum.
12 Unbolt the caliper and remove it, along with the brake shoes.
13 Once the caliper has been removed from the car, it can be serviced Drum brakes
in the same manner as those for the front wheels. Refer to Section 6 3 Using a back-up wrench on the hose fitting, unscrew the connec¬
for details on this procedure. tor from the hose fitting.
8.1 It is best to use a flare nut wrench to 8.6 The stop bolt is located at the bottom of the 8.7a Depress the piston as the retaining ring is
disconnect the hydraulic lines at the master reservoir pried free with a screwdriver
cylinder

8.7b A wire hook can be used to draw out the 8.1 Oa After a screw is threaded into the tube 8.10b A new tube seat being installed
piston assembly seat, two screwdrivers are used to pry the tube
seat out of its bore

8.1 1 Fitting the new seals to the secondary 8.13a Liberally coat all parts with fresh brake 8.13b Installing the spring retainer to the end
piston fluid during assembly of the spring

8.14 The piston/spring assembly is then 10.1 The combination valve is located just
8.1 3c The spring assembly is then pushed onto
pushed into the master cylinder bore under the master cylinder in most models (the
the secondary piston assembly
electrical wire is for the dashboard warning
light)
236 Chapter 9 Braking system

4 Remove the U-shaped retainer from the hose fitting, withdraw the
hose fitting from the support bracket, turn it out of the wheel cylinder 10 Hydraulic system pressure valves and switches
and remove the copper gasket,
5 When installing, use a new copper gasket, moisten the screw 1 On all models a combination distribution block, or combination
threads with brake fluid and torque-tighten to the wheel cylinder. valve is installed in the hydraulic line (photo). It is located adjacent to
6 With the weight on the suspension and the wheels 'straight- the master cylinder or on the inside of the body frame rail and its
ahead', insert the female end of the hose through the support bracket, functions are as follows:
allow it to seek its own position without kinking then install the U- The metering valve holds off full pressure to the front disc brakes until
shaped retainer and secure the hose in the bracket. a certain pressure level is reached. This allows the pressure in the rear
7 Turn the wheels from lock-to-lock to ensure that the hose does not brake circuit to build up sufficiently to overcome the force of the shoe
contact other parts (reposition the female end if necessary), retracting springs and ensure balanced braking between front and rear
8 Place the tubular steel connector in the hose fitting and torque- wheels.
tighten, using a back-up wrench on the hose fitting. The warning switch incorporates a piston which normally remains in a
9 Remove the tape from the master cylinder reservoir, top-up with central position (in balance) when the front and rear independent
new brake fluid and then bleed the system of air. hydraulic pressures are equal. In the event of a failure in either circuit,
the piston is displaced and completes an electrical circuit through a
Disc brakes switch terminal and lights a warning lamp in the vehicle interior.
The proportioning valve limits hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes to
10 To disconnect a rigid line from a flexible hose, unscrew the
connector out of the hose end fitting. These connectors are located at prevent them locking before full braking effort is obtained by the front
disc brakes.
the support brackets. Always hold the flexible hose and fitting quite
still by using an open-ended wrench. 2 The following tests should be carried out periodically.
1 1 To remove the flexible hose, extract the retainer from the hose and
fitting and pull the hose from the support bracket. Brake warning lamp check
12 Remove the hose to caliper bolt, remove the center connector and 3 Disconnect the electrical lead from the switch terminal and
the hose. connect the lead to ground.
13 Installation is a reversal of removal but always use new copper 4 Turn the ignition switch 'ON' and the brake failure warning lamp
gaskets in conjunction with the flexible hose end fittings and always let should light up. If it does not, check for burned out bulb or faulty
the flexible hose take up its natural curvature; never secure it in a wiring.
twisted or kinked position.
Warning switch operation check
Rigid lines 5 The operation of the switch can be checked by switching on the
14 Rigid lines which need to be replaced can be purchased at many ignition and with the help of an assistant, bleeding first a front caliper
service stations. Take the old pipe as a pattern and make sure that the and then a rear wheel cylinder as described in the following Section.
pipes are fitted with the correct connectors and that the ends are The warning lamp should light immediately after the bleeder valve is
double-flared. released and heavy pressure applied to the brake foot pedal.
 Chapter 9 Braking system 237

11.4 Most master cylinders are equipped with a bleeder valve (the 1 1.5 Bleeding the rear brake system
procedure is the same as for each wheel)

6 Any fault detected in the switch can only be rectified by replace¬ is a worthwhile investment. If connected in accordance with the
ment of the complete valve/switch assembly. makers' instructions, each bleed valve can be opened in turn to allow
7 Bleed the hydraulic system (both circuits) on completion as the system fluid to be pressure ejected until clear of air bubbles
described in the next Section. without the need to replenish the master cylinder reservoir during the
process.
10 If the front or rear hydraulic circuit has been 'broken' beyond the
11 Hydraulic system - bleeding distribution block then only the particular circuit concerned need be
bled. If the master cylinder has been removed and replaced or its
Note: Never allow the hydraulic fluid to come in contact with the paint connecting pipelines, then both circuits must be bled.
work of the vehicle as it will ruin the car's finish
1 Whenever the hydraulic system is disconnected (to remove or
install a component) air will enter the fluid lines and bleeding must be
12 Disc and drum - inspection and servicing
carried out. This is not a routine operation and if air enters the system
without any repair operations having been carried out, then the cause
1 Whenever the disc brake pads are inspected for wear, take the
must be sought and the fault rectified.
opportunity to check the condition of the disc (rotor) surfaces. Light
2 When applying the foot brake pedal, if the first application causes
scoring or grooving is normal but deep grooves or severe erosion are
the pedal to go down further than usual but an immediate second or
not. Some models have a single deep groove in the rotor called a
third application (pumping) reduces the pedal travel and improves the
'squeal' groove. Do not be fooled into thinking this groove is due to
braking effect, this is a sure sign that there is air in the system.
damage.
3 Use only clean hydraulic fluid (which has remained unshaken for
2 If vibration has been noticed during application of the brake pedal,
24 hours and has been stored in an airtight container) for topping-up
suspect disc runout.
the master cylinder reservoirs during the following operations. Make
sure that the reservoirs are kept topped-up during the whole of the
bleeding operations otherwise air will be drawn into the system and
the whole sequence of bleeding will have to be repeated. Where power
brakes are fitted, depress the brake pedal several times to destroy any
residual vacuum.
4 If the master cylinder is equipped with bleeder valves, do these
valves first and then move to the wheel closest to the master cylinder
(photo). Proceed to each wheel, working away from the master
cylinder.
5 Push a length of hose onto the bleeder valve and then immerse the
open end of the hose in a jar containing sufficient brake fluid to keep
the end of the hose well covered (photo).
6 Unscrew the bleeder valve \ turn and have an assistant depress
the brake pedal. Just before the pedal reaches the floor, close the
bleeder valve and allow the pedal to be released. Bubbles will flow
from the tube as air is expelled and the operation must be repeated
until the bubbles cease.
7 Repeat the operation on the other front caliper then transfer
operations to the rear brakes. At all times remember to maintain the
fluid level as stated in paragraph 3.
8 On vehicles equipped with a combination valve the pin in the end
of the metering part of the valve must be held in the open position.
This can be carried out using the official tool (J 23709) or a similar
device clamped under the mounting bolt which should have been
temporarily loosened. The pin must be pushed, and held in. Fig. 9.15 Checking rotor for lateral runout (Sec 12)
9 If any difficulty is experienced in bleeding the hydraulic system or
if the help of an assistant cannot be obtained, a pressure bleeding kit
 238
Chapter 9 Braking system

3 To check this, a dial gauge will be required or the use of feeler

4 To replace the switch if it is faulty, disconnect the electrical
blades between the disc and a fixed point.
coupler (two couplers if car is equipped with cruise control) and loosen
4 Turn the disc slowly and check that the runout does not exceed
the switch lock nut until the switch can be unscrewed from the
0.004 in.
bracket. Installation is a reversal of this procedure.
5 Sometimes the different wearing characteristics of the disc
material may cause it to wear to uneven thickness. Any variation in
thickness over 0.0005 in will also cause vibration during brake
application.
6 Discs usually have the wear limit and refinish thickness
dimensions cast into them.
7 If your dealer cannot refinish a disc to come within the specified
tolerances then a new disc must be installed (refer to front suspension,
Chapter 1 1).
8 Whenever a brake drum is removed for lining inspection, check the
drum for cracks, scoring or out-of-round.
9 An out-of-round drum will usually give rise to a pulsating feeling
of the brake pedal as the brakes are applied. The internal diameter
should be checked at several different points using an internal
micrometer. Drums can be refinished internally provided the wear and
refinish sizes cast into it are not exceeded.

13 Brake pedal - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2 Disconnect the clutch pedal return spring if a manual transmission
is fitted.
3 Remove the clip retainer from the pushrod pin which travels
through the pedal arm.
4 Remove the nut from the pedal shaft bolt. Slide the shaft out far
enough to clear the brake pedal arm.
5 The brake pedal can now be removed, along with the spacer and
bushing. The clutch pedal (if equipped) will remain in place. Fig. 9.17 Stoplamp switch (Sec 14)
6 When installing, lubricate the spacer and bushings with brake lube
and tighten the pivot nut to specifications.

15 Parking brake - adjustment

1 The adjustment of the parking brake cable may be necessary

whenever the rear brake cables have been disconnected or the parking
brake cables have stretched due to age and stress.
2 Depress the parking brake pedal exactly two ratchet clicks and
then raise the car for access underneath.
3 Tighten the adjusting nut until the left rear tire can just barely be
turned in a rearward motion (photo). The tire should be completely
locked from moving in a forward rotation.
4 Carefully release the parking brake pedal and check that the tire is
able to rotate freely in either direction. It is important that there is no
drag on the rear brakes with the pedal released.

Fig. 9.16 Brake pedal mounting (Sec 13)

14 Stop lamp switch — replacement and adjustment

1 This switch is located on a flange or bracket protruding from the

brake pedal support.
2 With the brake pedal in the fully released position, the plunger on
the body of the switch should be fully pressed in. When the pedal is
pushed in, the plunger releases and sends electrical current to the stop
lights at the rear of the car.
3 Electrical contact should be made when the pedal is depressed .38
1 5.3 The parking brake is adjusted from under the car (the threaded
to .64 inches. If this is not the case, the switch can be adjusted by
rod allows plenty of adjustment)
turning it in or out as required.
 Chapter 9 Braking system 239

Fig. 9.18 Parking brake assembly (Sec 15)

assembly of the hydraulic master cylinder. As pressure increases on

16 Parking brake pedal - removal and installation the end of the master cylinder piston, the hydraulic reaction plate is
moved off its seat on the lower piston and contacts the reaction levers.
1 Disconnect the battery ground cable and the parking brake These levers swing on their pivots and bear against the end of the air
warning switch wire. valve operating rod assembly to provide a feed back (approximately
2 Remove the clip and ball from the clevis (if necessary, the 30% of the master cylinder load) to the pedal. This enables the driver
equalizer nut can be slackened). to 'feel' the degree of brake application.
3 Remove the pedal rear mounting bolt and the nuts from the Brake holding: When the desired braking force is achieved the
mounting studs at the front of the dash panel (under the hood). power piston moves forward until the floating control valve again seats
4 Remove the pedal assembly. on the air valve. The power piston will now remain stationary until
5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but the nuts there is a change in applied pedal pressure.
and pedal rear mounting bolt must be torque-tightened. Brakes released: When the pedal pressure is released the air valve
is forced back to contact the power piston under spring action. As it
moves, the floating control valve is pushed off its seat on the power
piston insert by the air valve. Atmospheric air is shut off by the air
17 Power brake booster - general description
valve seating on the floating control valve. As the floating control cable
lifts from its seat, it opens the rear of the power piston to intake
A power brake booster has been an option on all models since its
manifold vacuum, and the power piston returns to the rear housing.
introduction. The booster utilizes vacuum from the engine manifold.
In the event of a fault developing in the booster, enough vacuum
is stored to provide sufficient assistance for two or three brake
applications and after that the performance of the hydraulic part of the
braking system is only affected in so far as the need for higher pedal
pressures will be noticed. Alternative types of power brake boosters
have been used; these are the Delco-Moraine and the Bendix types.
The principle of operation is similar in each case, and the descriptive
cycle given in the following paragraph is applicable to both types.
Brakes released: In the 'at rest' condition with the engine running,
vacuum is present on both sides of the power piston. Air at
atmospheric pressure, entering through the filter behind the push rod,
is shut off at the air valve. The floating control valve is held away from
the seat in the power piston insert. Any air in the system is drawn
through a small passage in the power piston, past the power piston
insert valve seat to the insert itself. It then travels through a drilling in
the support plate, into the space in front of the power piston then to
the intake manifold via a check valve. Vacuum therefore exists on both
sides of the power piston which is held against the rear of the housing
under spring action.
Brake application: When the pedal is depressed, the push rod
carries the air valve away from the floating control valve. The floating
control valve will follow until it contacts the raised seat in the power
piston insert; vacuum is now shut off to the rear power piston and Fig. 9.19 Power brake booster mounting (Sec 17)
atmospheric air enters through the filter past the air valve seat and
through a passage into the housing at the rear of the power piston. The
power piston therefore moves forward to operate the floating piston
240 Chapter 9 Braking system

The hydraulic pressure in the brake system is released as the floating 6 When installing, loosely install the four mounting nuts and then
piston assembly returns to the normal position. connect the pushrod to the brake pedal. Torque-tighten the attaching
Vacuum failure: In the event of vacuum failure, ie; engine switched nuts and reconnect the vacuum hose and master cylinder. If the
off or failure of the vacuum line, application of the brake pedal moves hydraulic brake fluid lines were disconnected, the master cylinder as
the pedal push rod which in turn contacts the master cylinder push rod well as the entire braking system should be bled to eliminate any air
and the brakes are applied. This gives a condition as found in the which has entered the system (see Section 11).
standard braking system, and a correspondingly higher pedal pressure
is required.
The power brake unit requires no special maintenance apart from
periodic inspection of the hoses and inspection of the air filter beneath
the boot at the pedal push rod end.
Dismantling of the power brake unit requires the use of special
tools and in the event of a fault developing, it is recommended that a
new or factory-exchange unit is fitted rather than attempt to overhaul
the original booster.

18 Power brake booster - removal and installation

1 Remove the securing nuts which hold the master cylinder to the
power brake unit. Position the master cylinder out of the way, being
careful not to strain the hydraulic lines leading to the master cylinder.
If there is any doubt as to the flexibility of the fluid lines disconnect
them at the cylinder and plug the ends.
2 Disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the front of the power
brake booster. Cover the end of the hose.
3 Loosen the four nuts that secure the booster to the firewall. Do not
remove these nuts at this time.
4 Inside the car, disconnect the power brake pushrod from the brake
pedal. Do not force the pushrod to the side when disconnecting. 1 8.2 Disconnecting the vacuum hose to the power booster
5 Now fully remove the four booster mounting nuts and carefully lift
the unit out of the engine compartment.
Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system
Refer to Chapter 13 for information applicable to later models

Contents

Bulb replacement - front end. 9 Horns - fault testing. 6

Bulb replacement - instrument panel. 12 Instrument Panel - removal and installation. 16
Bulb replacement - interior. 1 1 Modified pulse wiper/washer system - description, removal,
Bulb replacement - rear end. 10 dismantling, reassembly, installation. 26
Cigar lighter assembly - removal and installation. 14 Power door lock system. 31
Circuit breakers. 4 Power radio antenna - removal and installation. 28
Clock - removal and installation. 19 Radio - removal and installation. 30
Cruisemaster - description, adjustment and component Seatbelt warning system. 29
replacement. 27 Speedometer - removal and installation. 18
Electric grid-type rear defogger - testing and repair. 32 Speedometer cable - replacement. 15
Fuses. 2 Turn signal and hazard flashers. 5
Fusible links. 3 Washer assembly - removal, servicing and installation. 25
Gauge printed circuit board - replacement. 17 Washer/wiper switch - removal and installation. 21
General description. 1 Windshield wiper arm - removal and installation. 22
Headlamps - adjustment. 8 Windshield wiper motor/transmission - servicing. 24
Headlamp switch - removal and installation. 13 Windshield wiper system - general description. 20
Headlight sealed beam unit - removal and installation. 7 Wiper motor - removal and installation. 23

Specifications

Wiper motor current

Low speed. 8.0 Amps
High speed. 4,5 Amps

Light Bulbs
Note: Bulb numbers are AC brand bulbs (the factory specified replacement bulbs)
Headlamp
1974 through 1975 . 6014
1976 through 1977
Type 1A. 4651
Type 2A. 4652
1 978 through 1 980. 6052
Park & directional
1974 through 1980. 1 157NA
Side marker lamp
1974 through 1977 . 194
1978 through 1 980 . 1 157NA
Tail, stop & directional lamp
1 974 through 1980. 1157
 242 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system

Back-up lamp
1974 through 1 977 . 1157
1978 through 1980
Regal.
1157
Century.
1156
License plate lamp (all). 194
Rear side marker lamp (all). 194
Luggage compartment lamp
1 974 through 1 977 ... 89
1 978 through 1980.
1003
Speedometer
1 974 through 1977 . 194
1 978 through 1 980. 168
Gauges
1 974 through 1 977 . 168
1 978 through 1 980. 194
Clock
1974 through 1977 .
1893
1 978 through 1 980. 1816
Fuel gauge
1 974 through 1 977 . 194
1 978 through 1 980 . 168
Lights/wiper illumination
1974 through 1975 . 161
1976 through 1 977 . 194
1 978 through 1 980. 168
High beam indicator (all). 194
Turn signal indicator (all). 194
Telltales (charge, oil pressure, low fuel, brakes, water). 194
Cruise control
1974 through 1977 . 1445
1 978 through 1980. 161
Turbo lights (1978 through 1980 only). ZZZZZZ 161
Fasten seatbelt
1 974 through 1 977 .
1893
1978 through 1 980. 194
Tailgate ajar (1974 through 1977). ZZZZZiZ 1893
Rear defogger.
194
Headlamp "on" (1974 through 1977). ZZZZZ 194
Cluster lamps (Oil pressure, fuel economy, brake warning, water temp.)
1 974 through 1 977 . 74
Fuel economy (1978 through 1980). 161
Glove box.
1891
Radio dial (am - 1974 through 1977). ZZZZZZ'Z 1893
Radio dial (radio/tape - 1974 through 1977). 564
Radio dial (am/fm and stereo - 1974 through 1977). 216
Radio dial (1978 through 1980).. 1893
Ash tray assembly.
1445
Map lamp.
211-2
Heater/AC
1 974 through 1976 . 1893
1977 through 1 980. 194
Trouble light (under hood). 1004
Stereo indicator. 66
Flasher/hazard (1978 through 1980).. 562
Vanity mirror.
562
Sail Panel lamps (1974 through 1977 Century Custom and Reqal
Coupes).
211-1 or 212
Dome
1 974 through 1 977 . 21 1 or 211-1
1 978 through 1980. 561
Courtesy
1 974 through 1 977 . 89
1978 through 1 980. 906
Dome/reading lamo (all). 212
Reading lamp.
1004

1 General description
It should be noted that whenever portions of the electrical system
are worked on, the negative battery cable should be disconnected to
The electrical system is of the 12 volt, negative ground type. prevent electrical shorts and/or fires.
Power for the lighting system and all electrical accessories is
supplied by a lead/acid type battery which is charged by an alternator. 2 Fuses
This chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various
lighting and electrical components not associated with the engine.
1 The electrical circuits of the car are protected by a combination of
Information on the battery, alternator, voltage regulator and starter fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links.
motor can be found in Chapter 5.
2 The fuse panel or fuse box is located in most models underneath
 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system 243

the dashboard, on the left side of the vehicle. It is easily accessible for 6 It is also important that the correct fuse be installed. The different
fuse inspection or replacement without completely removing the box electrical circuits need varying amounts of protection, indicated by the
from its mounting. amperage rating on the fuse. See the Specifications Section of this
3 Each of the fuses is designed to protect a specific circuit, and the Chapter for the correct amperage needs of each circuit.
various circuits are identified on the fuse panel itself. 7 At no time should the fuse be bypassed by using metal or foil.
4 If an electrical component has failed, your first check should be the Serious damage to the electrical system could result.
fuse. A fuse which has blown' can be readily identified by inspecting 8 If the replacement fuse immediately fails do not replace again until
the element inside the glass tube. If this metal element is broken, the the cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases this
fuse is inoperable and must be replaced with a new one. will be a short circuit in the wiring system caused by a broken or
5 When removing and installing fuses it is important that metal deteriorated wire.
objects are not used to pry the fuse in or out of the holder. Plastic fuse
pullers are available for this purpose.

/-

FUSE - 10 AMP
CIRCUIT BREAKER - 40 AMP
(GAGES & INDICATOR LAMPS)
(POWER WINDOWS, SEAT, HEATED REAR
WINDOW & DOOR LOCKS) FUSE - 20 AMP
(DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL & BACK-UP LAMP &
FUSE-20 AMP IGNITION INTERLOCK RELAY)
(COURTESY, GLOVE BOX, DOME & TRUNK
LAMPS, CLOCK & LIGHTER, SEAT BELT FUSE-25 AMP
MODULE & DECK LID RELEASE) (HEATER & A/C BLOWER*, COMPRESSOR CLUTCH,
REAR DEFOGGER, TAILGATE
FUSE - 20 AMP AJAR & POWER WINDOW RELAY)
(TAIL, LICENSE, PANEL ILLUMINATION,
SIDE MARKER & PARKING LAMPS) FUSE - 10 AMP
FUSE - 20 AMP (RADIO, TRANS. DOWNSHIFT, HEADER
(STOP & HAZARD WARNING LAMPS) MAP LIGHT & CRUISE CONTROL)
FUSE - 4 AMP FUSE - 25 AMP
(INSTRUMENT PANEL ILLUMINATION) (WINDSHIELD WIPER & WASHER)

*Auto A/C hi blower (inline) fuse at

cowl relay - 30 amp

Fig. 10.1 Typical fuse block - 1974 through 1977 (Sec 2)

FUSE 20 AMP
ELECTRIC CHOKE FOR ALL V 6 8 CLOSED LOOP

FUSE 5 AMP
(INSTRUMENT ILLUMINATION LAMPS,
HEAD LAMP ON WARNING)

CIRCUIT BREAKER 30 AMP

FUSE 25 AMP (POWER WINDOWS, ROOF)
(WINDSHIELD WIPER 8, WASHER)
FUSE 25 AMP
(HEATER, AIR CONDITIONER,
TWO-SPEED WIPER, DECK LID)

FUSE 20 AMP
(SEAT BELT LIGHT 8. BUZZER. HEATED
BACKLIGHT RELAY, INSTRUMENT GAGES
& INDICATOR LAMPS, DECK LID 8< TAILGATE
WINDOW RELEASE, SUNSHADE MAP LAMP,
FUEL ECONOMY LIGHTS)

FUSE 20 AMP
FUEL ECONOMY LIGHTS, (STOP 8. HAZARD LAMPS)
& HEATED BACKLIGHT
FEED (RELAY)
FUSE - 20 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER 30 AMP
(TAIL, SIDE MARKER, PARKING, 8. (POWER SEAT. DOOR LOCKS, HEATED
LICENSE LAMPS. CLOCK RADIO) BACKLIGHT FEED)

FUSE 10 AMP
(RADIO 8.
CRUISE CONTROL)
FUSE 20 AMP
(CLOCK, CIGAR LIGHTER, GLOVE BOX
FUSE 20 AMP LAMP, KEY BUZZER, POWER ANTENNA.
(TURN SIGNALS. BACK-UP LAMP! CLOCK RADIO & RADIO CAPACITOR.
DOME 8. SAIL PANEL. TRUNK. READING
CLOSED LOOP FEED LAMPS, HEAD LAMP ON WARNING, DOOR
LOCKS)

TWO-SPEED WINDSHIELD WIPER

HEATED BACKLIGHT FEED 8. BODY WIRING JUNCTION
POWER ANTENNA. RADIO CAPACITOR, BLOCK FOR POWER SEATS 8< DOOR LOCKS
& DIGITAL CLOCK RADIO

CRUISE CONTROL

Fig. 10.2 Typical fuse block - 1978 through 1980 (Sec 2)

V
 244 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system

and the field circuitry which is of 16-gauge thickness. This

link is also located at the junction block. Later models also
have another fusible link at the horn relay for this purpose,
d) Two fusible links are used to protect the ammeter circuit.
They are 20-gauge and located at the junction block and horn
relay.

4 The fusible links cannot be repaired, but rather a new link of the
same wire size and Hypalon insulation can be put in its place. This
process is as follows:
5 Disconnect the battery ground cable.
6 Disconnect the fusible link from the starter solenoid.
7 Cut the damaged fusible link out of the wiring system. Do this just
behind the connector.
8 Strip the insulation from the circuit wiring approximately -j- inch.
9 Position connector on the new fusible link and crimp into place in
the wiring circuit.
10 Use rosin core solder at each end of the new link to obtain a good
solder joint.
11 Use plenty of electrical tape around the soldered joint. No exposed
wiring should show.
12 Connect the fusible link at the starter solenoid. Connect the
battery ground cable. Test circuit for proper operation.

4 Circuit breakers

1 A thermo circuit breaker is used to protect the headlight wiring,

and is located in the light switch. An electrical overload in the system
will cause the lights to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off.
If this happens, check the entire headlight wiring system immediately.
Once the overload condition is corrected the circuit breaker will
function normally.
2 Vehicles equipped with power windows and/or power door locks
will also have a circuit breaker for protection of electrical overloads to
these circuits. They are located on the bulkhead of the engine
compartment.

5 Turn signal and hazard flashers

1 Small canister-shaped flasher units are incorporated into the

electrical circuits for the directional signals and hazard warning lights.
2 When the units are functioning properly an audible click can be
heard with the circuit in operation. If the turn signals fail on one side
only, and the flasher unit cannot be heard, a faulty bulb is indicated. If
the flasher click can be heard, a short in the wiring is indicated.
3 If the turn signals fail on both sides, the fault may be due to a
blown fuse, faulty flasher unit or switch, or a broken or loose
connection. If the fuse has blown, check the wiring for a short before
installing a new fuse.
4 The hazard warning lamps are checked in the same manner as
side is similar. paragraph 3 above.
5 The hazard warning flasher unit is located in the fuse box located
under the dashboard on the left side. The turn signal flasher may be
Fig. 10.4 Adjustment screw locations for headlamp (Sec 8)
mounted in the fuse box or under the lower lip of the instrument panel.
6 When replacing either of these flasher units it is important to buy
a replacement of the same capacity. Vehicles of model years 1974 -
3 Fusible links 1977 have 2-lamp turn signal flashers and 4-lamp hazard units. 1 978
and later models have 2-lamp turn signal units and 6-lamp hazard
1 In addition to fuses, the wiring system incorporates fusible links flashers. Check the new flasher against the old one to be assured of
for overload protection. These links are used in circuits which are not the proper replacement.
ordinarily fused, such as the ignition circuit.
2 Although the fusible links appear to be of a heavier gauge than the
wire they are protecting, this appearance is due to the heavy 6 Horns - fault testing
insulation. All fusible links are four wire gauges smaller than the wire
they are incorporated into. 1 If the horn proves inoperable, your first check should be the fuse.
3 The exact locations of the four fusible links used may differ slightly A blown fuse can be readily identified at the fuse box under the lower
but their protective circuits are the same. They are as follows; left side of the dashboard.
2 If the fuse is in good condition, disconnect the electrical lead at the
a) A 14-gauge fusible link protecting the 10-gauge battery
horn. Run a jumper wire from a 12-volt source (+ battery terminal) to
charging circuit. This may be located at the 'Bat' terminal of
the wiring terminal on the horn. If the horn does not blow, the fault lies
the starter solenoid or as a pigtail lead at the battery positive
in the grounding of the horn or the horn itself.
cable.
3 If current is not reaching the horn, indicated by the horn sounding
b) A 16-gauge link to protect all unfused wiring of 12-gauge or
from the above test, there is a failure in the circuit before the horn.
larger. This is located at the horn relay or junction block.
4 In most cases a failure of the horn relay is indicated if the circuit
c) A 20-gauge link is used to protect the generator warning light
before the horn is at fault. Other checks would include bent metal
 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system 245

contacts on the horn actuator or loose or broken wires in the system. rear of the housing. Use a screwdriver to carefully lift the socket and
5 The horn relay is located in the wiring system, usually under the bulb out of the hole in the housing. Replace the bulb and then push the
dashboard near the fuse box. When checking or replacing the horn socket back into position.
relay be aware that the threaded stud is always hot and shorting of this
stud to ground could destroy a fusible link, disabling the vehicle until
the link is replaced. 11 Bulb replacement - interior

7 Headlight sealed beam unit - removal and installation Center console lamps
1 Pry up the switch assembly from the console and remove the bulb
1 Whenever replacing the headlight, do not turn the spring-loaded from its socket.
adjusting screws of the headlight, as this will alter the aim. 2 The courtesy lamp bulb is accessible after extracting the lens
2 Remove the headlight bezel screws and remove the decorative screws and removing the lens.
bezel.
3 Use a cotter pin removal tool or similar device to unhook the Automatic floor shift quadrant lamps
spring from the retaining ring. 3 Remove the quadrant trim plate from the console and withdraw
4 Remove the two screws which secure the retaining ring and the lamp socket.
withdraw the ring. Support the light as this is done.
5 Pull the sealed beam unit outward slightly and disconnect the Interior (roof) lamp
electrical connector from the rear of the light. Remove the light from 4 Pinch the sides of the plastic lamp lens together and remove it.
the vehicle. 5 The festoon type bulb can now be carefully pried from between
6 Position the new unit close enough to connect the electrical the spring contacts.
connector. Make sure that the numbers molded into the lens are at the
top.
7 Install the retaining ring with its mounting screws and spring. 12 Bulb replacement - instrument panel
8 Install the decorative bezel and check for proper operation. If the
adjusting screws were not altered, the new headlight will not need to 1 All of the instrument illumination and telltale bulbs are mounted in
have the aim adjusted. twist sockets on the rear of the printed circuit instrument panel.
2 Most of the sockets can be reached without removing the
instrument panel. For better access it is recommended that the
8 Headlamps - adjustment
steering column trim cover be removed from the lower portion of the
dashboard. If, with the trim cover removed, the upper bulbs are still
1 Adjustment screws are provided at the front of the'lamp to alter
inaccessible, then the instrument cluster will have to be removed (See
the lamp beam in both the horizontal and vertical planes.
Section 17).
2 It is strongly recommended that this work is left to a service
station having modern beam setting equipment, any adjustment at
home being regarded as a temporary, emergency operation.
13 Headlamp switch — removal and installation

1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.

9 Bulb replacement — front end
2 Remove the steering column cover from the bottom of the
dashboard for better access.
Parking lamp turn signal 3 With the headlights in the 'full on' position, reach up under the
dashboard and depress the lighting switch shaft retainer while pulling
All models
1 Remove the screws which secure the lens to the body. Carefully gently on the lighting knob. Remove the shaft and knob assembly.
extract the lens, being careful not to damage the fiber gasket (photo). 4 Remove the nut which secures the lighting switch to the carrier.
2 Push in on the bulb and turn it -j turn counter clockwise. Remove 5 For better access to the switch, remove the screws which secure
the instrument cluster carrier and tilt the cluster.
the bulb from the socket (photo).
6 Unplug the electrical connector at the switch and remove the
3 Check that the electrical contacts and wiring are in a useable
condition and push the new bulb into place. This is done with a switch.
7 Installation is a reversal of removal, however, make sure that all
twisting motion.
ground connections are refastened and that the switch shaft is fully
4 Check the operation of the new bulb and if satisfactory, install the
seated in the switch. The shaft retainer should lock the shaft into place.
lens covering.
5 The bulb is housed in a metal socket which is located behind the
grille. Open the hood, reach in and twist socket out of the rear of the
housing. 14 Cigar lighter assembly - removal and installation
6 Twist the socket out of the rear of the housing and replace the
bulb as described above. 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
2 Reach up under the dashboard and disconnect the electrical
connector at the rear of the lighter housing. The lighter housing is
Side marker lamps
located in the ashtray. Pull the ashtray out and down to remove it.
All models
3 Grip the retaining nut at the lighter's rear and turn the socket with
7 The bulb is located inside a twist socket at the rear of the housing.
your thumb until the nut is loose enough to turn from rear. Remove
Twist the socket on the inner fender panel j turn and disengage the
socket and bulb from the housing. The old bulb can then be released element from ashtray.
4 When installing make sure the grounding ring is between the
from the socket and a new one put in its place.
lighter housing and the retainer.

10 Bulb replacement - rear end

15 Speedometer cable - replacement
1 All the various bulbs for the rear end lighting are accessible from
inside the trunk. The bulbs are located inside a metal socket which is 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2 Reach up under the dashboard and disconnect the speedometer
secured to the rear of the particular housing.
cable casing from the speedometer head. This is done by pressing the
2 The lamp bulb socket for all the lamps except the license plate is
retaining spring clip towards the front of the instrument cluster and
removed by twisting the socket j turn. The bulb inside the socket can
then pulling back on the speedometer cable casing.
then be replaced and the socket re-installed (photo).
3 Remove the dash panel sealing plug from the casing.
3 In most cases the license plate sockets must be pried out of the
246

Fig. 10.5 Mounting points for dashboard - typical (Sec 16)

INSTRUMENT PANEL HOUSING ASM-

PLATE - INST PANEL TRIM

PLATE - INST PANEL TRIM

ARROW INDICATES
DIRECTION Of
LOCKING TANG-
WITH A/C LESS CLOCK

-WITH CLOCK-LESS A/C

VIEW-A

Fig. 10.6 Trim plates and tab locations - typical (Sec 16)
 247

HOUSING ASM

HOUSING ASM

LOWER PANEL

VIEW-A

Fig. 10.7 Instrument panel housing - typical (Sec 16)

FASTEN SEAT BELT INDICATOR LAMP

FUEL GAGE & TALE TALE CLOCK CONNECTOR
CLUSTER CONNECTOR

NSTRUMENT PANEL HOUSING

COURTESY LIGHT

CIGAR LIGHTER
CONNECTOR

BUZZER CONNECTOR

MAIN LIGHT SWITCH CONNECTOR

ILLUMINATION
LAMP
WIPER & WASHER SWiTCH CONNECTOR INSTRUMENT PANEL HOUSING

INSTRUMENT PANEL HARNESS

Fig. 10.3 Wiring harness behind instrument panel (Sec 16)

248 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system

4 Using pliers, pull the old core out of the top of the casing. If the 3 With the instrument cluster on a clean workbench, remove 5
inner cable has broken, it will be necessary to remove the lower piece cluster lens screws, lens and the 10 bulbs from the sockets. Take out
of cable from under the vehicle. Some models come equipped with a 1 screw and 6 clips. Lift the printed circuit off the rear of the
two-piece speedometer cable, while some have a single cable leading instrument cluster.
all the way from the speedometer head to the transmission. Ascertain 4 Place the new printed circuit into position, securing it with the
which type you have and disconnect the lower end as necessary to pull illumination bulbs and gauge nuts.
out the remaining broken piece of inner cable. 5 Reinstall the instrument cluster referring to Section 17.
5 When installing a new speedometer cable core always lubricate it 6 Connect the negative battery cable.
the entire length with special graphite lubricant designed for this
purpose. Do not use oil.
6 Push the core into the casing, using a twisting motion when 18 Speedometer - removal and installation
necessary. Make sure the end of the core is fully engaged in the pinion
gear inside the transmission. 1 If the speedometer is being removed along with the instrument
7 Reinstall the dash sealing plug and connect the casing to the rear panel, follow the steps in Section 17. Make sure that the battery
of the instrument cluster. As in removal, push in on the retaining clip ground cable is disconnected whenever you work on the instrument
and then push the casing fully into the rear of the gauge. cluster.
8 Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation of the 2 Position the shift lever into the "L" position and disconnect the
speedometer. shift indicator cable from the steering column.
3 Carefully pry the trim bezel away from the instrument panel.
4 Remove the 3 screws that hold the speedometer in place,
16 Instrument panel - removal and installation disengage the wire connector and pull speedometer forward.
5 Undo the speedometer cable and lift the speedometer out of the
Note: Before starting any work on the instrument panel, disconnect instrument panel.
the battery ground cable. 6 Installation is the exact reverse procedure.

1974 through 1976

1 In order to remove the instrument panel, it is necessary to first 19 Clock - removal and installation
remove the glove box and door, the lower trim plates, and the
dashboard. 1 Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2 Open the glove box door and take out the screws that attach it to 2 Carefully pry the instrument panel trim bezel away from the panel.
the dash. Lift out the door. Now, remove the 2 remaining screws and 3 Unscrew the 2 retaining screws, pull clock forward and unhook
the box. the wire connector. Lift out the clock.
3 Unscrew the 2 lower attaching screws and lift out the right lower 4 Reverse the procedure for installation.
trim plate.
4 Take out the 4 instrument panel to dashboard screws and unhook
the speaker connector from the radio.
20 Windshield wiper system - general description
5 Lift out the dashboard; try not to damage the edges when
removing it from your car. Put the dash panel in an area where it will
A two-speed wiper motor is installed as standard equipment and
not be marred.
incorporates the gear train and the self-parking mechanism.
6 Position the shift lever in "L" (column shift only) and disconnect
The wiper arms will only park when the motor is operating in low
the shift indicator connector cable.
speed.
7 Pry the trim bezel (plate) away from the instrument panel. Use
The drive from the wiper motor to the wiper arms is by means of
caution; the bezel is easy to break or crack.
a crank arm and a strut to the transmission shafts.
8 Disconnect air conditioning/heater cables and mark them with
On all models, the windshield wiper motor incorporates the drive
masking tape for correct identification later on.
system for the windshield washers.
9 Unhook the speedometer cable from the head, disconnect any
Two types of windshield wiper assemblies may be encountered
wiring connectors, pull all light sockets and mark them for easy
according to vehicle model. On one type, the wiper arms park parallel
identification.
with and about two inches above the windshield molding while on the
10 Take off the radio control knobs and undo the 8 remaining screws
other type, the blades park in a depressed position against a step on
that hold the instrument panel in place.
the windshield lower molding.
1 1 Remove the instrument panel. The radio will drop approximately 1
in. This is normal.
12 If the panel is to be replaced with a new one, it will be necessary
to scavenge all necessary clips, knobs, hook ups, and so on from the 21 Washer/wiper switch - removal and installation
old panel.
13 Installation is the reverse process. When you install the right trim 1 This switch needs to be removed only when it is to be replaced.
plate, insert the top of the trim panel into place first and secure the 2 Remove headlight switch knob and escutcheon (1979 - 1980).
bottom with two screws. Disconnect negative battery cable and carefully pry away the instru¬
ment panel trim plate.
1977 through 1980 3 Using one or two narrow blade screwdrivers, insert a blade into
each of the slots above the switch knobs. Bend the retaining clips
1 Follow Steps 1, 2, and 4 (omit step 3) from the previous section down and pull top of switch outward.
(1974 through 1976 Instrument panel removal).
4 Disconnect wire and remove switch from panel. Installation is the
2 Pull on dash assembly to disengage the retaining clips; on the
reverse procedure, except that switch needs only to be pressed directly
right side, the unit must be pulled down and to the rear to loosen the into opening, not tilted.
clip at the top of the glove box.
3 Lift off the dash panel and remove it from the automobile. Put it
in a location where it will not be damaged.
4 Follow steps 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 from the previous section. 22 Windshield wiper arm - removal and installation
5 Installation is the reverse procedure.
1 Make sure that the wiper arms are in the self-parked position, the
motor having been switched off in the low speed mode.
2 Note carefully the position of the wiper arm in relation to the
17 Gauge printed circuit board - replacement
windshield lower reveal moulding. Use tape on the windshield to mark
the exact location of the wiper arm on the glass.
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3 Using a suitable hooked tool or a small screwdriver, pull aside the
2 Remove the instrument panel as described in Section 17.
small spring tang which holds the wiper arm to the splined trans-
 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system 249

mission shaft and at the same time pull the arm from the shaft (photo). 6 To remove the ratchet wheel, move the spring out of the shaft
4 Installation is a reversal of removal but do not push the arm fully groove and slide the ratchet wheel off its shaft.
home on the shaft until the alignment of the arm has been checked. If 7 To separate the pump and pump actuator plate from the frame,
necessary, the arm can be pulled off again and turned through one or pull the pump housing towards the valve end until the grooves in the
two serrations of the shaft to correct the alignment without the housing clear the frame.
necessity of pulling aside the spring tang. 8 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.
5 Finally, press the arm fully home on its shaft and then wet the 9 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
windshield glass and operate the motor on low speed to ensure that
the arc of travel is correct. 1975 through 1980
10 Disconnect the washer hoses from the pump and disconnect the
23 Wiper motor - removal and installation wires from the pump relay.
11 Remove the plastic pump cover.
1 Raise the hood and remove the cowl screen at the base of the 12 Remove the frame screws and withdraw the pump and frame.
windshield. 1 3 Extract the screw and lift the ratchet dog from the mounting plate.
2 Reaching through the opening, loosen the transmission drive link 14 Disengage the pawl spring from the pawl and then slide the pawl
to crank arm attaching nuts. from the cam follower pin.
3 Remove the transmission drive links from the crank arm of the 15 Pry the ratchet spring out the slot in the shaft, hold the relay
motor. armature against the relay coil and slide the ratchet wheel off the
shaft.
4 Disconnect the washer hoses and electrical wiring at the motor.
5 Remove the three bolts which secure the motor to the firewall 16 Pry off the retainer and slide the cam off the shaft.
cowling. Push the crank arm through its mounting hole and then 1 7 Remove the relay armature and spring.
withdraw the motor. 18 Chisel off the four tabs that secure the coil mounting bracket.
Remove the relay coil and terminal board.
6 Installation is a reversal of removal, however, make sure that the
motor is in the 'Park' position. 19 To remove the plastic pump housing, pull it towards the valve end
until the grooves in the housing clear the base. Detach the assembly
from the cam follower pin. The piston and plastic housing are serviced
24 Windshield wiper motor/transmission - servicing
as an assembly.
20 The valve can be removed from the pump housing after extracting
1 The unit has a very long operating life and when it has finally worn
the four screws but make sure to mark the relative position of the valve
so much that dismantling and repair is necessary, consideration should
to the housing before separating.
be given to the purchase of a new or reconditioned unit, particularly if
21 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but note that the wiper
the major components require replacement.
motor must be in the 'Park' position before assembling the pump and
the wiper motor.
25 Washer assembly — removal, servicing and installation

26 Modified pulse wiper/washer system - description, removal,

1974 dismantling, reassembly, installation
1 The washer pump can be removed independently, leaving the
wiper motor in the vehicle. Disconnect the washer hoses and electrical 1 This system which is fitted to some models as optional equipment
wiring. is designed to provide (i) a low speed single wipe cycle delay of up to
2 Remove the washer pump mounting screws and lift off the pump 10 seconds and (ii) wash/wipe cycle comprising squirts, wiping and
from the wiper motor. switching off in the Park' position.
3 Pull off the four lobe washer pump drive cam. This is a press fit 2 To remove the washer pump, first withdraw the complete
and may require prying. wiper/washer assembly from the vehicle.
4 Remove the felt washer from the wiper shaft. 3 Remove the plastic tab from the opening under the terminals and
5 Remove the ratchet dog retaining screw, then hold the spring pull the plastic cover from the mounting post.
loaded solenoid plunger in position and lift the solenoid assembly and 4 Disconnect the electrical leads and extract the three screws that
ratchet dog off the pump frame. Separate the dog from the mounting attach the pump to the wiper transmission.
plate if necessary. 5 The valve assembly can be removed after extracting the four

ENGAGE
HOLD OUT PUT TO
TERMINAL
TERMINAL SPEEDOMETER

TO TEE
FITTING

INPUT FROM
TRANSMISSION

FROM LOCKNUT
ENGINE
VACUUM v xn| —^
u'*'.
ORIFICE TUBE
AND CONNECTOR ASSEMBLY
AIR FILTER AND
SOLENOID HOUSING
COVER
Fig. 10.10 Cruise Master release switches, valve and bracket -
Fig. 10.9 Transducer for the Cruise Master - typical (Sec 27) typical (Sec 27)
 250 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system

securing screws. l turn of the orifice tube will change the cruise speed by about 1 mph.
6 Slide the cam from the shaft after first removing the retainer. Tighten the locknut after each adjustment.
7 Remove the pulse relay timing device, holding switch and override 8 The brake release switch contacts must open when the brake
switch (one screw) from the washer frame. pedal is depressed between 0.38 and 0.64 inch measured at the pedal
8 Disconnect the red and yellow leads from the pulse relay and pad.
detach it from the locator pins. 9 The vacuum valve plunger must dear the pedal arm when the arm
9 Remove the dog spring assembly and the ratchet pawl retaining is moved | inch measured at the switch.
ring. Disconnect the pawl spring and slide the pawl from the cam 10 The column mounted engagement switch is non-adjustable, and is
follower shaft. serviced only as part of the complete turn signal lever assembly.
10 Disconnect the relay armature spring and remove the armature. 1 1 Faulty components should be replaced as complete assemblies
1 1 Release the ratchet gear spring from the groove in the shaft and after disconnecting electrical leads, vacuum hoses and control cables
slide the ratchet gear from the shaft. from them as necessary.
12 To release the pump housing from its sheet metal hose, pull it
towards the valve assembly until the grooves in the plastic pump 28 Power radio antenna - removal and installation
housing clear the base. Detach the assembly from the cam follower
pin.
1 Access to the power antenna is through the under side of the right
13 Bend or chisel off the four bent over tabs that secure the coil front fender.
mounting bracket to its base.
2 Lower the antenna mast all the way by turning off the ignition. If
14 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but observe the following the unit has failed in the extended position, it may be necessary to cut
points.
off the mast portion of the antenna unit. Do this only if you can't
1 5 When installing the pulse relay onto the switch base locator pins, remove the antenna in the extended position. The mast section of the
rotate the drive cam counter clockwise and secure the complete antenna can be replaced without purchasing an entire antenna.
assembly with the screw. Remember to insert the sealing rings 3 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
between the housing and valve body.
4 If your car is equipped with an AM/FM/CB combination, unscrew
the knob from the antenna top. It will also be necessary to remove the
loading coil.
27 Cruise master - description, adjustment and component re¬ 5 Unscrew the 2 attaching screws on the inside top of the fender
placement
and disconnect the wiring and lead-in connections at the fender
well/motor junction.
1 This cruising speed control system is optionally available on 6 Apply masking tape to the edges between the door and fender.
certain models and allows the driver to maintain a constant highway This will minimize the chance of chipping the paint. Do not leave this
speed without the necessity of continual adjustment of foot pressure tape on the car longer than necessary and don't have the car parked
on the accelerator pedal. in the sun while performing this operation. If the tape does not remove
2 The system employs a servo unit connected to the intake manifold, easily at the procedure end, apply bug and tar remover or turpentine
a speedometer cable-driven regulator and various switches. sparingly to the loose edge of the tape. Do not rub the fluid into the
3 An override capability is built in. paint and wash the area with warm soap and water when you loosen
4 Any malfunction in the performance of the system should first be the tape.
checked out by inspecting the fuse, the security of the leads and 7 Open the right door to the halfway position (you are going to
terminals, and the vacuum pipes and connections. remove the screws that attach the fender panel to the door line
5 The following adjustments should then be checked and if necess¬ support). Remove the lowest screw from inside the door. Open the
ary altered to conform to those specified. door fully and remove the 3 remaining screws from outside the door.
6 The servo operating rod which connects to the carburetor throttle 8 Take out the 3 most rearward screws that attach the fender panel
linkage should be adjusted by turning the link on the rod until there is to the wheelhouse.
0.02 to 0.04 inches of free play at the carburetor. 9 Remove the lower antenna attaching screw (in the fender well).
7 The regulator can be adjusted by turning the orifice tube in or out 1 0 Pull outward on the lower edge of the fender panel just enough to
(never remove it as it cannot be re-installed). If the vehicle cruises let the antenna unit drop out.
below the engagement speed, screw the orifice tube out. If the vehicle 1 1 Installation is a reverse procedure but you will need the help of an
cruises above the engagement speed, screw the orifice tube in. Each assistant to replace the top 2 antenna attaching screws.
—

Fig. 10.11 Power antenna mounting - typical (Sec 28) Fig. 10.12 Radio mounting and knobs - typical (Sec 30)
V___
r 251

ZONES OF BULB BRILLIANCE

Fig. 10.13 Testing the rear defogger grid pattern with lamp (Sec 32)

Fig. 10.14 Lamp brilliance with broken defogger lines (Sec 32)

V J
252 Chapter 10 Chassis electrical system

REPAIR MATERIAL
29 Seat belt warning systems

1974 through 1976

1 Before the vehicle can be started, the belts must be fastened after
the weight of the driver or passenger has been placed on their
respective seats.
2 A warning system is actuated if any attempt is made to start the
vehicle without the belts having been properly fastened.
3 The warning system will again be actuated if, after the engine has
been started and the vehicle is in a forward gear or speed range, the
occupied front seat belts are unfastened.
4 Once the engine has been started, the engine can be switched off
and subsequently restarted with either or both front seat belts
unfastened provided the driver only remains in his seat. Once the
driver's weight is removed from his seat then the original starting
procedure will again apply.
5 In order to facilitate vehicle maintenance and repair, a mechanic's
Fig. 10.15 Repairing window defogger grid (Sec 32)
start position is incorporated in the ignition switch. The engine will
then start irrespective of the mode of the front seat belts or whether through the large access hole. The solenoid can be mounted to either
either front seat is occupied. Whenever the engine is started by this the rear door lock pillar or the inner metal door panel.
method, the warning buzzer can be terminated if the seat buckle 4 Early models use attaching screws through the door panel and into
switch is cycled. the solenoid bracket. Later models use rivets to secure the solenoid to
6 An anti-bounce device is built into the system to prevent the non¬ the pillar. These must be drilled out using a ^ inch drill bit.
start mode being re-established should a front seat occupant raise his 5 Once the securing devices are removed, disconnect the wiring
weight from his seat (with seat belt fastened) for a period not harness at the solenoid and the actuating link held in place with a
exceeding ten seconds. metal clip. Remove the solenoid from the door cavity.
7 An override relay is incorporated in the system to permit starting 6 To install, place the solenoid in position and connect the electrical
the engine in the event of complete system failure. The relay is connector and actuating link. If rivets were drilled out, new aluminum
mounted within the engine compartment and to bring the relay into rivets (-^ x 0.500" size) can be used upon reassembly. Optionally, -J- -
use, carry out the following operations: 20 screws and U nuts can be used.
8 Turn the ignition 'ON'. 7 Check the operation of the door locks before installing the water
9 Open the hood and depress and then release the button on the shield and trim panel.
override relay. The engine can now be started and the vehicle driven
until such time as the ignition key is turned to the 'OFF' or 'LOCK' 32 Electric grid-type rear defogger - testing and repair
position, when the override relay will return to its de-energized
position.
1 This option consists of a rear window with a number of horizontal
1977 through 1980 elements that are baked into the glass surface during the glass forming
operation.
10 The system used on these later vehicles incorporates a timer-
2 Small breaks in the element system can be successfully repaired
controlled buzzer and warning lamp which operate for a few seconds
without removing the rear window.
after the ignition is switched on without the seat belts having been
3 To test the grids for proper operation, start the engine and turn on
fastened.
the system.
1 1 With this system, the fastening of safety belts is left to the driver
4 Ground one lead of a test lamp and lightly touch the other prod to
and abandons the need for complicated starter interlock and other
each grid line.
devices used in earlier systems.
5 The brilliance of the test lamp should increase as the probe is
moved across the element from right to left. If the test lamp glows
30 Radio - removal and installation brightly at both ends of the grid lines, check for a loose ground wire for
the system. All of the grid lines should be checked in at least two
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. places.
2 Pull off the radio control knobs and bezels. Disconnect the air duct 6 To repair a break in a grid line it is recommended that a repair kit
assembly control, there are 2 screws that attach it to the dash panel. specifically for this purpose be purchased from a GM dealer. Included
3 Using a deep socket, remove the control shaft lock nuts now in the repair kit will be a decal, a container of silver plastic and
visible at the base of the shafts. hardener, a mixing stick and instructions.
4 Look up under the dashboard, at the rear of the radio unit. Any 7 To repair a break, first turn off the system and allow it to de¬
obstructions, commonly a center air duct or hoses, should be discon¬ energize for a few minutes.
nected and removed for access. 8 Lightly buff the grid line area with fine steel wool and then
5 Remove the screws or nuts securing the rear mounting bracket to thoroughly clean the area with alcohol.
the radio. 9 Use the decal supplied in the repair kit, or use electrician's tape
6 Push the radio forward until the shafts are clear of the dashboard above and below the area to be repaired. The space between the
and then lower the unit enough to remove the electrical connections pieces of tape should be the same as existing grid lines. This can be
at the rear of the radio. Also disconnect the antenna lead-in cable. checked from outside the car. Press the tape tightly against the glass
7 Carefully lower the radio unit and remove. to prevent seepage.
8 Installation is a reversal of the removal operation, however, always 10 Mix the hardener and silver plastic thoroughly.
attach the speaker wiring harness before applying power to the radio. 1 1 Using the wood spatula, apply the silver plastic mixture between
the pieces of tape, overlapping the damaged area slightly on either
31 Power door lock system end.
1 2 Carefully remove the decal or tape and apply a constant stream of
1 This optional system incorporates a solenoid actuator inside each hot air directly to the repaired area. A heat gun set at 500 to 700
door. The solenoid is electrically operated from a control switch on the degrees Fahrenheit is recommended. Hold the gun asbout 1 inch from
instrument panel and operates the lock through a linkage. Each the glass for 1 to 2 minutes.
actuator has an internal circuit breaker which may require one to three 1 3 If the new grid line appears off color, tincture of iodine can be used
minutes to reset. to clean the repair and bring it back to the proper color. This mixture
2 To remove the solenoid, raise the door window and remove the should not remain on the repair for more than 30 seconds.
door panel trim pad as described in Chapter 12. 14 Although the defogger is now fully operational, the repaired area
3 After prying away the water shield, the solenoid can be seen should not be disturbed for at least 24 hours.
 r

Fig. 10.16 Left: front and rear body wiring diagram (1974 and 1975): Right: front and rear body wiring diagram (1976)

J
253
Fig. 10.1 7 Engine and interior wiring diagram (1974 through 1976)
 255

Fig. 10.18 Engine and interior wiring diagram (1974 through 1976 continued)
256 >V

MOP ft OlR
SIC lAW

RIGHT
TAIL LAMP
(COUPES ONLY!

,K GRV^_<
RT TAIL
STOP ft OlR
SlG l AMP

BACK OF
LAMP

$
20TAN—0
FUf L GAGE

LICENSE LAMP

TRUNK LAMP
ft SWITCH

£EE3-
DECK U0
RE Lf ASE
SOlENO'D

AT GUNHgL,

BACK UP
LAMP

l 1 T ai i r. T OP
ft DiR S'G i AMr

T,^0r
L T T A, i i AMP
■COUPES ONi r.

-LT GREEN-
-BROWN — LT tail
-OKGREEN- STOP ft DiR
SlG LAMP
“YELLOW —

Fig. 10.19 Front and rear body/engine wiring diagram (1977)

J
V.
Fig. 10.20 Interior wiring diagram (1977)
257
258

Fig. 10.21 Front body/engine wiring diagram (1978 and 1979)

 259

Fig. 10.22 Front body/engine wiring diagram (1980)

 CABLE
CONVERSION
CHART
METRIC CURRENT
SIZE GAGE

.5mm 2 20G A.
,8mm 2 1 8G A
1.0mm 2 16G A.
2.0mm 2 1 4G A.
3.0mm 2 1 2G A.
5.0mm 2 10GA.
8.0mm 2 8G A.
13.0mm 2 6GA.
1 9.0mm 2 4GA.

Fig.10.23 Interior wiring diagram (1978 through 1980)

r Dtt* UO Wtli.K'i. VlMO*
vmi si
261
- • © t— a^trefP'
c*oft. coMt*jm«twT u»>

-®

IP IBLK1
‘-€K

L _© MM
r$ P™ f\
r -
1 !i HtXTtR
COUTHCX
LWtP RtWt
DU«4-

CABLE
CONVERSION
CHART
METRIC CURRENT
SIZE GAGE
.5mm 2 20G A.
.8mm 2 18GA.
1.0mm 2 16GA.
2.0mm 2 14GA.
3.0mm 2 12GA.
5.0mm 2 10G A.
8.0mm 2 8G A.
13.0mm 2 6GA.
19.0mm 2 4GA.

Fig. 10.24 Interior wiring diagram (1978 through 1980 continued)

J
V
Fig. 10.25 Rear body wiring diagram (1978 through 1980)
Chapter 11 Suspension and steering
Contents

Front coil spring - removal and installation.:. 6 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding. 32
Front suspension balljoints - removal, inspection and Power steering pump - removal and installation. 31
installation. 7 Rear springs - removal, servicing and installation. 1 1
Front wheel alignment and steering angles. 33 Rear suspension control arms - removal, servicing
Front wheel bearings - lubrication, replacement and and installation. 12
adjustment. 3 Shock absorbers - removal, inspection and installation. 4
General description. 1 Stabilizer bar - removal and installation. 5
Ignition key warning switch - removal and installation. 23 Steering column (standard version) - disassembly and
Ignition lock cylinder - removal and installation. 22 reassembly. 26
Ignition switch - removal and installation. 24 Steering column (tilt version) - disassembly and reassembly. 27
Lower suspension control arm - removal, servicing and Steering column - removal and installation. 25
installation. 9 Steering column couplings - removal and installation. 17
Maintenance and inspection (balljoints). 2 Steering gear and linkage - inspection. 13
Manual steering gear - maintenance and adjustment (steering Steering knuckle - removal and installation. 10
gear in car). 15 Steering linkage and balljoints - removal and installation. 14
Manual steering gear - removal and installation. 19 Steering wheel - removal and installation (1971 - 1980
Pitman shaft seal (manual steering) - replacement (steering models). 1 6
gear in car). 20 Turn signal switch - removal and installation. 21
Pot joint coupling - disassembly and reassembly. 18 Upper suspension control arm - removal, servicing and
Power steering — general description. 28 installation. 8
Power steering - maintenance and adjustment. 29 Wheels and tires. 34
Power steering gear - removal and installation. 30

Specifications

Front end alignment specifications

Caster (in degrees) Camber (in degrees) Toe-in (in inches)
—1 to + + (right side) 1 -1- 1
1974. . -1 to +1 16 ± 8
to +1 £ (left side)
1 + 1
1975. . +1 to +3 —j to + 1j- (right side) 16-8

+■£ to +1 f (left side)

1 + 1
1976. . +1 to +3 -+ to +1* (right side) 16—8

+•$■ to + 1f (left side)

-+ to +1} (right side) 1 + 1
1977. . +1 to +3 (radial tires) 16—8

0 to +2 (bias tires) +-J- to + 1-f (left side)

1978. 0 to +2 (manual steering) -0.3 to +1.3 re to +i
+ 2 to +4 (power steering)
1979. 0 to +2 (manual steering) -0.3 to +1.3 re to +T
+ 2 to +4 (power steering)
1980. 0 to +2 (manual steering) -0.3 to +1.3 re ,0 +i
+2 to +4 (power steering)
264 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

Torque specifications
Front suspension
1974 through 1976 ft-lb
Front shock-to-lower control arm. 20
Front shock-to-frame. 8
Stabilizer bushing-to-frame. 24
Upper control arm shaft-to-frame. 70
Upper ball joint-to-knuckle. 60
Front lower control arm-to-frame. Bolt 130
Nut 95
Lower ball joint-to-knuckle. 90
Stabilizer link-to-lower control arm. 12
Idler arm-to-frame. 40
Tie rod end-to-steering knuckle. 35
Lower control arm bumper. 17
Steering arm-to-tie rod end. 30 to 40 (45 max.)
Tie rod clamp. 19 to 24
Tie rod-to-intermediate rod. 30 to 50 (55 max.)
Pitman arm-to-intermediate rod. 40 to 50 (55 max.)
Pitman arm-to-steering gear. 160 to 210
Idler arm-to-intermediate rod. 30 to 40 (45 max.)
Idler arm-to-frame. 45 to 55
1977
Stabilizer link nut. 13
Stabilizer bar bracket-to-frame bolts and nuts*. 24
Shock absorber upper attaching nut. 8
Shock absorber-to-control arm bolts. 20
Upper control arm-to-frame attaching nuts. 75
Lower control arm-to-frame attaching nuts* - front. 125
Lower control arm-to-frame attaching nuts* - rear. 95
Upper arm bushing nuts - rear*. 55
Upper arm bushing nuts - front*. 90
Service ball joints-to-upper control arm. 8
Lower. 70
Upper. 50
Splash shield-to-steering bolts. 10
Lower control arm. 20
1978
Stabilizer link nut. 13
Stabilizer bar bracket-to-frame bolts and nuts*. 24
Shock absorber upper attaching nut. 8
Shock absorber-to-control arm bolts. 20
Upper control arm-to-frame attaching nuts. 46
Lower control arm-to-frame attaching nuts* - front. 61
Lower control arm-to-frame attaching nuts* - rear. 61
Upper arm bushing nuts - rear*. 55
Upper arm bushing nuts - front*. 90
Service ball joints-to-upper control arm. 8
Lower. 85
Upper. 61
Splash shield-to-steering bolts. 10
Lower control arm. 2
1979 through 1980
Stabilizer link nut. 13
Stabilizer bar bracket-to-frame bolts and nuts*. 24
Shock absorber upper attaching nut. 8
Shock absorber-to-control arm bolts. 20
Upper control arm-to-frame attaching nuts. 45
Lower control arm-to-frame attaching nuts*. 65
Upper arm bushing nuts - rear*. 85
Upper arm bushing nuts - front*. 85
Service balljoints-to-upper control arm. 8
Lower. 90
Upper. 65
Splash shield to steering knuckle bolts. 10
Lower control arm. 20
*Torque with weight of car on wheels

Rear suspension
1974 through 1976 ft-lb
Rear shock upper mounting bolt. 20
Rear shock lower mounting. 65
Upper and lower control arm bolt. 90
Upper and lower control arm nut. 80
Rear prop, shaft "U" joint-to-pinion flange. 12 to 20
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 265

1977
Shock absorbers
Upper attaching nuts. 14
Lower nut. 65
Upper attaching belt. 20
'Suspension arms
Upper arm-to-frame nuts. 80
Upper arm-to-frame bolts. 90
Upper arm-to-differential nuts. 75
Upper arm-to-differential bolts. 85
Lower arm-to-frame nuts. 80
Lower arm-to-frame bolts. 90
Lower arm-to-differential nuts. 75
Lower arm-to-differential bolts. 85
Stabilizer shaft to lower control arm nut. 55
Stabilizer shaft bracket to control arm belt. 22
1978
Shock absorbers
Upper attaching nuts. 12
Lower nut. 65
Upper attaching bolt. 20
'Suspension arms
Upper arm-to-frame nuts. 70
Upper arm-to-differential nuts. 70
Upper arm-to-differential bolts. 85
Lower arm-to-frame nuts. 70
Lower arm-to-frame bolts. 90
Lower arm-to-differential bolts. 90
Stabilizer shaft-to-lower control arm nut. 35
1979 through 1980
Wheel nuts (exc. cast alum, wheels). 80
W/cast alum, wheels... 90
Shock absorbers
Upper attaching bolts and nuts. 20
Lower stud nut. 65
'Control arms
Upper arm-to-frame nuts. 70
Upper arm-to-frame bolts. 70
Upper arm-to-axle housing nuts. 70
Upper arm-to-axle housing bolts. 70
Lower arm-to-frame nuts. 70
Lower arm-to-frame bolts. 70
Lower arm-to-axle housing nuts. 80
Lower arm-to-axle housing bolts. 80
Stabilizer shaft-to-lower control arm nut. 35
*Torque with weight of car on wheels

Steering
1974 through 1978 (power steering) ft-lb
Gear housing-to-frame. 70
Lower coupling flange-to-worm shaft. 30
Steering column coupling-to-steering gear shaft flange. 20
Gear side cover-to-housing. 45
Pitman arm-to-Pitman shaft. 180
Adjuster plug locking. 80
Pitman shaft lash adjuster locking. 35
Rack - piston nut end. 75
Ball return guide retainer. 5
Pump discharge part. 35
Pump-to-mounting bracket. 35
Pump mounting bracket-to-engine. 35
Pressure hose-to-pump. 35
Pressure hose-to-gear. 35
Return hose-to-gear. 35
1979 through 1980 (power steering)
Gear to frame bolts. 70
High pressure line fitting (at gear). 40
Oil return line fitting (at gear). 40
Pitman shaft
Adjusting screw locknut. 32
Adjuster plug locknut. 80
Pitman shaft nut. 185
Coupling flange bolt. 30
1974 through 1979 (manual steering)
Gear housing-to-frame. 70
Lower coupling flange-to-worm shaft. 30
266 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

Gear side cover-to-housing. 30

Pitman arm-to-pinion shaft. 180
Pitman shaft lash adjuster locking. 25
Worm bearing adjuster locking. 85
Ball return guide retainer. 10
1980 (manual steering)
Gear-to-frame bolts. 70
Pitman shaft nut. 185
Side cover bolts. 30
Pitman shaft adjusting screw locknut... 25
Coupling flange-to-gear pinch bolt. 30
Clamp-to-ball nut screw. 4

Steering linkage
1974 through 1976
Steering arm-to-tie rod end. 30 to 40 (45 max.)
Tie rod clamp. 19 to 24
Tie rod-to-intermediate rod. 30 to 50 (55 max.)
Pitman arm-to-intermediate rod. 40 to 50 (55 max.)
Pitman arm-to-steering gear. 160 to 210
Idler arm-to-intermediate rod. 30 to 40 (45 max.)
Idler arm-to-frame. 45 to 55
1977 through 1978
Steering arm-to-tie rod end nut*. 35
Tie rod clamp nuts. 14
Tie rod-to-intermediate rod nut*. 40
Pitman arm-to-intermediate rod nut*. 45
Pitman arm-to-steering gear nut - P/S. 185
Idler arm-to-intermediate rod nut*. 35
Idler arm-to-frame nut. 50
1 979 through 1980
Steering arm-to-tie rod end nut. 40
Tie rod clamp nuts. 14
Tie rod-to-intermediate rod nut. 40
Pitman arm-to-intermediate rod nut. 45
Pitman arm-to-steering gear nut - P/S. 184
Manual. 1 84
Idler arm-to-intermediate rod nut*. 35
Idler arm-to-frame nut. 61
*Do not back off to insert cotter pin, turn to next hole
Steering column
1974 through 1976 ft-lb in-lb
Pinch bolt, fabric coupling-to-steering gear. 30
Pinch bolt, demountable flange-to-steering gear. 30
Nuts, fabric coupling. 20
Bolt and nut, pot coupling clamp - 1 in. 50
Bolt and nut, pot coupling clamp - f in. 35
Spring retaining screw. 35
Support screws. 60
Housing screws
Optional. 100
Standard. 60
Signal switch mounting screws. 25
Shaft lock cover screws. 15
Ignition switch mounting screws. 35
Neutral start mounting switch screws
Optional. 20
Standard. 15
Tilt release lever screw. 30
Hazard warning knob. 5
Steering wheel nut. 30
Signal switch lever screw. 15
Shift gate mounting screws. 45
Bearing screws (synchro). 90
1977 through 1980
Steering wheel to shaft. 30
Turn signal switch attaching screws. 35
Ignition switch attaching screws. 35
Bracket-to-steering column support nuts. 25
Toe-pan-to-dash screws. 45
Toe-pan clamp screws. 60
Bracket to steering column bolt. 30
Cover (tilt and tilt & telescope)-to-housing screws. 100
Clamp-to-steering shaft nut (A-B-C). 55
Support-to-lock plate (tilt and tilt & telescope) screws.
Flex coupling nuts. 20
Flex coupling-to-shaft bolt. 30
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 267

if the fitting is flush, or has receded inside the cover, the balljoint must
1 General description
be replaced.

The front suspension on all models is of independent type

incorporating upper and lower suspension arms, coil springs, hydraulic
3 Front wheel bearings - lubrication, replacement and
telescopic shock absorbers and a stabilizer bar.
adjustment
The rear suspension on all models is of upper and lower control
arm type with coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.
1 See Chapter 1, Section 24 for complete details on servicing the
The steering gear is of the recirculating ball type with an energy¬
front wheel bearings.
absorbing column incorporating an ignition lock. All models can be
equipped with power steering or an optional tilt steering column.
Pressed steel wheels are used and bias-ply tires are standard on
earlier models with either bias-belted or radial tires on later models. 4 Shock absorbers - removal, inspection and installation

Note: Any sign of oil on the outside of shock absorber bodies will
indicate that the seals have started to leak and the units must be
2 Maintenance and inspection (balljoints)
replaced as assemblies. Where the shock absorber has failed intern¬
ally, this is more difficult to detect although rear axle patter or tramp,
1 At intervals specified in Chapter 1 check all the steering and
particularly on uneven road surfaces may provide a due. When a shock
suspension joints for wear or deterioration of the rubber bushings or
absorber is suspected to have failed, remove it from the vehicle and
dust excluders. With the help of an assistant check for 'lost' movement
holding it in a vertical position operate it for the full length of its stroke
between the steering wheel at the front roadwheels which must be
eight or ten times. Any lack of resistance in either direction will
due to wear or looseness of the components.
indicate the need for replacement.
2 Lower suspension arm balljoint wear must be checked in one of
the following ways: Check the wear indicators for indication or
excessive lower balljoint wear. When new, a dimension of 0.050 inch
Front shock absorber
1 Raise the front end of the vehicle. Use an open-ended wrench to
should exist from the grease nipple fitting to the balljoint cover surface;
prevent the upper (squared) end from turning, then remove the upper
stem retaining nut, retainer and rubber grommet.
2 Remove the 2 bolts retaining the lower shock absorber pivot to the
control arm (photo).
3 Pull the assembly out from the bottom.
4 When installing, fit the lower retainer and rubber grommet in place
over the upper stem.
5 Install the shock absorber in the fully extended position up through
the lower control arm and spring.
6 Fit the upper rubber grommet, retainer and attaching nut after the
shock absorber upper stem has passed through the upper control arm
frame bracket.
7 Using an open-ended wrench, hold the upper stem and torque-
tighten the retaining nut.
8 Install the bolts at the shock absorber lower pivot, torque tighten,
then lower the vehicle.

Rear shock absorber

9 Raise the rear end of the vehicle, and support the rear axle.
10 Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut, retainer and
rubber grommet.
11 Remove the two upper attaching bolts and then remove the shock
Fig. 11.2 Front suspension balljoint wear indicator (Sec 2)
absorber.
12 When installing, push the lower retainer and rubber grommet into
268 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

4.2 Removing the lower bolts for the front shock absorbers 5.1 The ends of the stabilizer bar are secured with a locknut and
cushioned with rubber grommets.

5.2 Removing the stabilizer bar mounting brackets from the frame rails 5.5 A rubber insulator is used at each mounting bracket (the slit should
go towards the front of the vehicle)

position. Extend the shock absorber to the proper length. 7 Ensure that the stabilizer bar is centralized then torque-tighten all
13 Place the shock absorber into position and install the two upper the bolts.
attaching bolts. 8 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
14 Push the remaining retainer and grommet into position and install
the lower attaching nut. Rear stabilizer bar
15 Torque all fasteners and lower the vehicle. 9 Raise the rear end of the vehicle and support the rear axle.
10 Remove the stabilizer bar to spring retainer bracket attachment.
11 Remove the stabilizer bar to body bracket bolt and remove the
5 Stabilizer bar - removal and installation assembly. Make note of any shims used.
12 Fit the bushings onto the stabilizer bar then place the bar in
position.
Front stabilizer bar 13 Fit the upper retaining bolts and the stabilizer bar to spring
1 Raise the front end of the vehicle then disconnect the stabilizer bar attachment. Install bolts loosely at this point.
from the lower control arms (photo). 14 Ensure that the weight of the vehicle is being carried by the rear
2 Remove the stabilizer bar brackets from the frame then lift away axle only, then torque-tighten the bolts.
the stabilizer bar (photo). 1 5 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3 Remove the link bolts, spacers and rubber grommets from the
lower control arms or stabilizer bar.
4 Inspect all the parts for damage, wear and deterioration. Fit new 6 Front coil spring - removal and installation
parts as necessary.
5 If new frame bushings are required, slide them into position along NOTE: As the coil spring is under pressure during pan of the removal
the stabilizer bar. The slit should be facing the front of the car (photo). and installation process, proper tools should be used and caution
6 When installing, fit the brackets over the bushings and connect exercised. For added safety, a chain should be used to secure the coil
them (loosely) to the frame. spring to the lower control arm.
6.7 Using 2 wrenches to disconnect the lower 6.8 Lower the control arm slowly and carefully 7.3 Loosen upper ball stud nut 1 turn
control arm pivot bolt with the floor jack

NUT

LOWER CONTROL ARM

Fig. 11.3 Typical front suspension shock absorber mounting (Sec 4)

FRAME SPRING SEAT

Fig. 11.5 Rear stabilizer bar mounting (Sec 5)

Fig. 11.4 Typical rear suspension shock absorber mounting (Sec 4)
270 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

the bolts through the control arm with a hammer and drift (photo).
NOTE Spring to be installed with tape
8 Slowly and carefully lower the floor jack. The control arm should
at lowest position. Bottom of spring is lower with it (photo).
coiled helical, and the top is coiled flat 9 Before removing the spring, note the position of the spring in
with a gripper notch near end of wire. relation to its bottom seat and the identifying tag attached to one of
the coils.
10 When all the compression is removed from the spring, remove the
safety chain and the spring.
1 1 During installation, be sure that the coil is properly seated in the
lower control arm. The end of the bottom coil should cover all or part
of one of the small inspection/drain holes drilled in the control arm.
The other hole should be partly or completely uncovered.
12 It is recommended that the safety chain be again used upon
installation. With the control arm and spring raised into position, install
the pivot bolts and nuts. It is necessary that the front bolt be installed
with its head towards the front of the vehicle. The rear bolt can be
installed in either direction. Torque-tighten these bolts to specifi¬
cations before lowering the jack and removing the safety chain.
13 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of disas¬
sembly and tighten all fasteners to the proper torque.

NOTE After assembly, end of spring coil 7 Front suspension balljoints - removal, inspection and
must cover all or part of one inspection installation

Upper balljoint
1 Raise the front end of the vehicle and remove the wheel.
2 Remove the upper ballstud cotter pin.
3 Loosen the ballstud nut by one turn only (photo).
4 Remove the ballstud nuts.
5 Remove the upper balljoint stud and swing the steering knuckle
out of the way.a
6 Raise the uper arm and support it with a block of wood between
it and the frame.
7 The balljoint is spring-loaded in its socket to compensate for wear.
If there is any lateral play ir if the joint can be turned in its socket with
the fingers, the joint should be replaced.
8 If replacement is necessary, use a grinding wheel to remove the
rivets, but take care not to damage the control arm or balljoint seat.
9 When installing, fit the balljoint in the control arm and attach with
the nuts and bolts provided (nuts at the top). Torque-tighten.
10 Turn the ballstud collar pin hole fore and aft to the length of the
car.
1 1 Remove the wooden blocks used at paragraph 21.
12 Ensure that the tapered hole in the steering knuckle is clean and
undamaged then mate the ballstud to it.
13 Install the stud nut and tighten to torque specifications. Tighten
the nut further to align the cotterpin holes and then fit a new cotter
pin.
14 Install the new lubrication nipple and lubricate the joint.

Lower balljoint
15 Raise the front end of the vehicle.
16 Remove the ballstud cotter pin.
17 Loosen the ballstud nut by one turn only.
18 Press out the balljoint stud using the method described for upper
Fig. 11.7 Drilling upper balljoint rivet heads for removal (Sec 7) balljoints in paragraph 3.
19 Remove the lower stud nut then pull outwards at the bottom of
the tire. At the same time, push the tire and wheel upwards to free the
knuckle from the ballstud.
1 Raise the front end of the vehicle and support firmly with jack 20 Remove the wheel.
stands on the frame. The suspension arms should hang free. 21 Raise the upper control arm and place a 2-in x 4-in block of wood
2 Remove the shock absorber (Section 4). between the frame and control arm. If found necessary, remove the
3 Remove the wheel. tie-rod from the steering knuckle.
4 Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm. It can 22 Using a suitable vise and tubular spacers (GM tools J 9519-7 or
remain intact by the frame brackets. J 951 9-10 can be used of available) press the lower balljoint out of the
5 Position a floor jack under the lower control arm. GIVI dealers have control arm.
a special adapter for use with floor jacks which cradle the inner 23 Using a suitable vise and tubular spacers (tools J 9519-9 or J
bushings. 9519-10) install the replacement balljoint with the air vent in the
6 Slowly raise the jack to relieve the tension on the lower control rubber boot facing inwards.
arm pivot bolts. At this point the spring is under pressure. Install a 24 Turn the ballstud cotter pin hole fore and aft to the length of the
chain around the spring and through the control arm as a safety car.
measure. Check that the floor jack is firmly supporting the control arm 25 Remove the wooden block used in paragraph 31.
and will not slip. 26 Ensure that the tapered hole in the steering knuckle is clean and
7 With tension off the pivot bolts, remove the rear pivot bolt nut. undamaged then mate the ballstud to it.
Remove the forward pivot bolt and nut. It may be necessary to follow 27 Install the stud nut and torque-tighten to specifications. Tighten
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 271
the nut further and install a new correr pin after aligning the holes.
28 Fit a new lubrication nipple and lubricate the new joint.
29 Replace the wheel (and tie-rod, if removed) and lower the car.

8 Upper suspension control arm — removal, servicing and in¬

stallation

1 Raise the front end of the vehicle and lower the control arm onto
a jack for support.
2 Remove the wheel.
3 Separate the upper control arm ball stud (Section 7).
4 Remove the 2 nuts securing the control arm shaft to the frame
bracket. Tape together the shims and ensure that they are eventually
installed in the same position.
5 In some cases it will be necessary to remove the upper control arm
attaching bolts to provide clearance for removal of the upper control
arm assembly. These bolts are splined, and may be removed as
follows:

a) Use a brass drift to tap the bolt gently downwards.

b) Pry the bolt upwards using a suitable box wrench.
c) Remove the nut, then use a suitable pry bar and block of
wood to pry the bolts from the frame.
Fig. 11.8 Removing upper balljoint rivets with a punch (Sec 7)
6 Remove the upper control arm.
7 If, on inspection, the control arm pivot bushings are worn, their
replacement is a job best left to your GM dealer, but if you are to carry
out this work without the use of a press, employ a long bolt and
suitable tubular spacers for both removal and installation of the
bushings.
8 When installing, loosen the endshaft retainer bolts and/or nuts.
9 If removed, position the new control arm attaching bolts loosely in
the frame and install the control arm cross-shaft on the attaching
bolts.
10 Use a normal free-running nut (not a locknut) to tighten the
serrated bolts onto their seats.
11 When the splined bolts are seated, remove the free-running nuts
and fit the regular locknuts.
12 Install the shims in their original fitted positions then torque-
tighten the nuts. Tighten the thinner shim pack nut first for improved
clamping force and torque retention.
13 Install the ball stud through the knuckle, torque-tighten the nut,
further tighten to align the cotter pin holes then fit a new cotter pin.
14 Fit the wheel and lower the vehicle to the floor. Fig. 11.9 Upper control arm components (Sec 8)
1 5 Torque-tighten the shaft retainer bolts and/or nuts.
6 Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud cotter pins and
disconnect the ball studs from the steering knuckle.
7 Disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle. This
9 Lower suspension control arm - removal, servicing and procedure can be found in Section 13.
installation 8 Remove the steering knuckle.
9 When installing, place the steering knuckle into position and insert
1 Remove the front coil spring (Section 6). the upper and lower ball stud.
2 Remove the control arm ball stud (Section 7). 10 Install the ball stud nuts and torque-tighten to the specified value.
3 Remove the control arm from the vehicle. Further tighten to align the cotter pin hole and then install a new cotter
4 If, on inspection, the control arm pivot bushings are worn, their pin.
replacement is best left to your GM dealer but if you are to carry out 1 1 Connect the tie-rod and tighten to the specified torque.
this work without the use of a press, employ a long bolt and suitable 12 Install the splash shield, hub and rotor.
tubular spacers for both removal and installation. Note: It is not 13 Install the outer bearing, spindle washer and nut. Adjust the
essential for the control arm to be removed for bushing replacement bearing as described in Chapter 1.
except for the front bushings on 1975 and later models. 14 Install the caliper and the wheels. Lower the car to the ground.
5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Torque-
tighten the nuts to the specified torque.

11 Rear springs - removal, servicing and installation

10 Steering knuckle - removal and installation 1 Raise the car and support it under the frame.
2 Support the rear axle with an adjustable lifting device.
1 Raise the front end of the vehicle so that the weight is on the 3 On the side from which the spring is to be removed, disconnect
springs. the shock absorber at the lower mount. On some models ('74 through
2 Remove the wheels. ’77) disconnect the hydraulic brake line at the axle housing.
3 Remove the disc brake caliper and rotor (Refer to Chapter 9, if 4 Disconnect the upper control arm at the axle.
necessary). When removing the caliper, use a block of wood to keep 5 Remove stabilizer bar, if applicable.
the disc pads separated. 6 Lower the the jack until the suspension is fully extended. Mark the
4 Remove the splash shield. exact location of the pig-tail on the upper end of the spring and its
5 Flang the caliper assembly from some convenient part of the relation to the frame. Pry the bottom pig tail over the axle retainer and
suspension. Do not let the hydraulic line take the weight. remove the spring and insulator.
272 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

7 Installation is the reverse of removal and the spring must be

returned to it's exact original location. Bleed the brakes (Chapter 9) on
vehicles which required the disconnection of the rear brake lines.

12 Rear suspension control arms - removal, servicing and

installation

1 Raise the vehicle and support it so that the rear axle hangs freely.
2 Remove the rear springs as specified in Sec. 11.
3 Use a jack to raise the axle until tension is relieved in the control
arm which is to be removed.
4 Extract the control arm pivot bolts and remove the control arms.
5 If the control arm bushings are worn, have your dealer replace
them with new ones as a press and special tools are required.
6 Installation is the reverse of removal except that all bolts should
not be tightened to specified torque settings until after the vehicle's
weight has been lowered onto its suspension.

13 Steering gear and linkage - inspection

1 See Chapter 1, Section 8 for the proper procedures involved in 14.3b A puller is then installed in position and tightened against the
inspecting the steering system. threaded stud

14 Steering linkage and balljoints - removal and installation

1 The balljoints on the two outer tie-rods and those on the central
relay rod are all connected by means of a tapered ball stud located in
a tapered hole and secured by a castellated nut and cotter pin.
2 The outer tie-rods are of tubular, internally threaded sleeve type
and are secured to the tie-rod ends by clamps and bolts.
3 To remove the balljoint, first raise the front end of the car then
remove the ball stud nut. On occasion the tapered studs have been
known to simply pull out. More often they are well and truly wedged
in position and a gear puller or slotted steel wedges may be driven
between the ball unit and the arm to which it is attached. Another
method is to place the head of a hammer (or other solid metal article)
on one side of the hole in the arm into which the pin is fitted. Then hit
it smartly with a hammer on the opposite side. This has the effect of
squeezing the taper out and usually works, provided one can get a
good swing at it. Always keep the stud nut at the top of the stud
threads to protect the threads from damage (photos).
4 Measure the length of exposed thread on each of the tie-rod ends
(as a guide to reassembly), release the pinch bolts from the clamps and
unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod sleeve (photo).
5 When installing the new tie-rod ends, screw them into the sleeves 14.3c With the puller tight, a sharp blow with a hammer will break the
exactly the same amount as the original ones. connection
6 Arrange for your dealer to check the toe-in, or follow the

14.3a After removing the cotter pin, the locknut is loosened to the end 14.4 When replacing tie rods, count the number of exposed threads
of the threaded stud and mark the threaded shaft to enable the new tie rod to be installed
in the same position
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 273

BOLT (2)

FRONT OF CAR

NG GEAR ASSEMBLY

NUT (2)

14.8 Where a common puller cannot be used (as shown with the idler
arm), a wedge-shaped splitter should be used to break the joint
connection Fig. 11.11 Typical steering gear adjustment points (Sec 14)

procedure given in Section 33. Pay particular attention to the special 4 Remove the nut from the Pitman arm and then mark the relative
instructions for the position of the clamps if you are carrying out this position of the arm to the Pitman shaft.
operation yourself. 5 Using a suitable extractor remove the Pitman arm.
7 If the balljoints on the central relay rod are worn then the relay rod 6 Loosen the adjuster plug locknut on the steering gear and unscrew
will have to be replaced as an assembly. Again, the toe-in will have to the adjuster plug one quarter-turn.
be checked afterwards (see previous paragraph). 7 Remove the horn button or shroud from the steering wheel and
8 If it is necessary to remove the idler arm this is first disconnected then turn the steering wheel in one direction to full lock and then turn
at the frame mounting (one nut, washer and bolt), then disconnected the wheel back through one half turn. Now apply a £ inch socket to the
at the idler arm end by using the same procedure given for the other steering wheel center nut and either using a torque wrench or a spring
steering linkage joints (photo). balance check the bearing drag when the wheel is turned through a
90° arc of travel.
8 This drag is the thrust bearing preload and it should be within the
1 5 Manual steering gear - maintenance and adjustment (steering specifications listed at the front of this chapter. Tighten or slacken the
gear in car) adjuster plug until the correct preload is obtained and then torque-
tighten the adjuster plug locknut.
1 The steering gear is normally filled with lubricant for life and 9 Any jerky or lumpy feeling as the steering wheel is turned will
unless a severe leak occurs, necessitating a complete overhaul, indicate worn or damaged bearings in the steering gear.
refilling with lubricant will not be required. 10 Now turn the steering wheel gently from one stop to the other
2 In order to rectify conditions of lost motion, slackness and counting the number of turns of the steering wheel from lock-to-lock.
vibration which have been found to be directly attributable to the Now turn the wheel exactly half the number of turns counted so that
steering gear, carry out the following operations: the steering gear is in the centered position.
3 Disconnect the ground cable from the battery. 11 Loosen the lash adjuster screw locknut and turn the lash adjuster
274 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

screw clockwise until all lash has been removed from between the ball
nut and the Pitman shaft sector teeth. Torque-tighten the locknut. 16 Steering wheel - removal and installation
12 Now check the 'over-center' preload by taking the highest torque
reading obtainable as the wheel is moved through its centered Standard models
position. The preload should be within the specifications listed at the 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
front of this chapter, in excess of the torque stated at paragraph 8 2 Remove the screws securing the steering wheel shroud. These are
above. Adjust the position of the lash adjuster screw if necessary to on the underside of the steering wheel towards the dashboard.
achieve this. 3 Lift the steering wheel shroud and horn contact lead assembly
13 Install the Pitman arm and horn shroud, and connect the battery from the steering wheel.
ground cable. 4 On 1 975 - 1 980 models, remove the snap ring from the steering
shaft (photo).

Fig. 11.12 Typical steering wheel and horn attachment (Sec 16)
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 275

16.4 Some models may have a retaining clip over the main shaft nut 16.17 Install a steering wheel puller to draw the steering wheel off the
column

5 Mark the steering wheel and column to enable installation 14 On 1975 - 1980 models, remove the snap ring from the end of
of the wheel in the same position. the shaft (photo).
6 Remove the steering wheel lock nut from the shaft. 1 5 Remove the steering wheel lock nut.
7 Using a steering wheel puller, remove the steering wheel from the 16 Remove the three screws securing the upper horn insulator and
column. Threaded holes are provided in the steering wheel to accept remove the insulator, receiver, belleville spring and shim (if used).
the puller anchor screws. Use the lock nut to protect the top threads 1 7 Use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel from the
of the threaded shaft. Do not strike the puller or the end'of the column column (photo). Threaded holes are provided in the steering wheel for
as this may damage components of the collapsible steering column. the puller anchor screws. Use the lock nut to protect the top threads
8 When installing, set the turn signal lever to the neutral position of the steering shaft. Do not strike the puller or the end of the column
and set the wheel into position. Use the alignment marks made upon with a hammer as this may damage internal components of the
disassembly to correctly position the wheel. collapsible column.
9 Tighten the steering wheel lock nut to the proper specifications. 1 8 To install, place the turn signal lever in the neutral position and set
Do not overtighten this nut as this may cause interference problems. the wheel onto the steering shaft. Use the alignment marks made
Install the snap ring (1975 — 1980 models). upon disassembly to correctly position the steering wheel. Secure with
10 Place the shroud onto the wheel, guiding the horn contact lead the lock nut, tightening the nut to the proper specifications. Do not
into the directional signal canceling cam tower. overtighten this nut.
11 Install the shroud attaching screws and connect the negative 1 9 Install the snap ring (1975 - 1980 models).
battery cable. Check the operation of the horn. 20 Install the horn lower insulator, eyelet and spring in the horn
contact tower.
21 Install the belleville spring, receiver and horn upper insulator and
Cushioned steering wheel models secure with the three screws.
12 Disconnect the negative battery cable. 22 Install the horn button cap and connect the negative battery cable.
13 Carefully pry off the horn button cap with a screwdriver (photos). Check the operation of the horn.
 276 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

17 Steering column couplings - removal and installation location mark on the pin on the same side as the shaft chamber.
Support the shaft securely then press out the pin taking care that it is
not damaged, or bearing damage may occur. Remove the seal clamp
Flexible coupling then slide the seal off the end of the shaft.
1 Disconnect the battery ground cable (and coupling shield if 2 To reassemble the pot joint, first ensure that all the parts are clean
applicable). then slide the seal onto the shaft so that the lip of the seal is against
2 Remove the intermediate steering shaft flange to flexible coupling the shoulder on the shaft. Install the clamp. Press the pin into the
retaining bolts. shaft, aligning the scribed location marks. Ensure that the pin is
3 Remove the steering gear to frame bolts; lower the steering gear. centered within 0.012 inch, or binding will result. Liberally grease the
4 Push the intermediate shaft rearwards and rotate it out of the way. inside and outside of the bearings and the inside of the cover then
5 Using a suitable 12-point socket wrench, remove the coupling install the tension spring and bearings on the pin. Install the seal into
clamp bolt. Remove the flexible coupling. the end of the cover and secure with the snap-ring.
6 Install the flexible coupling to the steering gear wormshaft splined
end, taking care to align the mating flats.
7 Install the coupling clamp bolt and torque tighten, after ensuring 19 Manual steering gear — removal and installation
that the coupling reinforcement is bottomed on the wormshaft.
8 Install the intermediate shaft to the coupling and loosely install the 1 Remove the battery ground cable (and the coupling shield, if
flange to coupling bolts. applicable).
9 Install the steering gear to frame bolts and torque-tighten. 2 Remove the nuts, lockwashers and bolts at the steering shaft to
10 Align the flexible coupling pins centrally in the intermediate shaft coupling flange.
flange slots then torque-tighten the coupling bolts. 3 Remove the Pitman arm lock nut and washer. Mark the position of
1 1 Connect the battery ground lead (and the coupling shield, if the Pitman arm in relation to the shaft and remove the Pitman arm
applicable). with a suitable puller.
4 Remove the screws securing the steering gear to the frame and
Pot joint coupling remove it from the vehicle.
12 Disconnect the battery ground cable (and the coupling shield, if 5 When installing, place the gear into position so that the coupling
applicable).
mounts properly to the flanged end of the steering shaft. Secure the
13 Remove the intermediate shaft flange to flexible coupling retaining
gear to the frame, fit the washers and bolts, then torque-tighten.
bolts.
6 Secure the steering coupling to the flanged end of the column with
14 Remove the pot joint clamping bolt (at the steering shaft). the lockwashers and nuts. Torque-tighten the nuts.
1 5 Remove the steering gear to frame bolts; lower the gear. 7 Install the Pitman arm.
16 Push the intermediate steering shaft rearwards until it bottoms in
8 Connect the battery ground cable (and the coupling shield, if
the pot joint and clears the flexible coupling alignment pins. applicable).
17 Remove the intermediate shaft and pot joints as an assembly.
18 When installing, align the flats on the pot joint and steering shaft
then mate them. Install the clamp and bolt, and torque-tighten.
20 Pitman shaft seal (manual steering) — replacement (steering
19 Install the intermediate shaft to the flexible coupling and loosely
gear in car)
install the coupling bolts.
20 Install the steering gear to the frame bolts and torque-tighten.
1 Remove the Pitman arm.
21 Align the flexible coupling pins centrally in the intermediate shaft
2 Turn the steering from stop-to-stop and count the exact number of
flange slots then torque-tighten the coupling bolts.
turns. Now rotate the wheel half the number of turns counted so that
22 Connect the battery ground cable (and the coupling shield, if
applicable). the steering gear is centered (wormshaft flat at 12 o'clock position).
3 Remove the side cover from the steering gear housing (three
screws) and lift the Pitman shaft and side cover from the housing.
4 Pry the seal from the housing using a screwdriver and tap a new
18 Pot joint coupling — disassembly and reassembly
one into position using a suitable socket or piece of tube.
5 Remove the lash adjuster screw locknut and detach the side cover
1 To disassemble the pot joint, pry off the snap-ring and slide the
from the Pitman shaft by turning the adjuster screw clockwise.
coupling over the shaft. Remove the bearings and tension spring from
6 Insert the Pitman shaft into the steering gear so that the center
the pivot pin. Clean the pin and the end of the shaft then scribe a
tooth of the shaft sector enters the center tooth of the ball nut.
7 Pack the specified grease into the housing and install a new side
cover gasket. Install the side cover onto the lash adjuster screw. This
is achieved by inserting a small screwdriver through the threaded
adjuster hole in the side cover and turning the lash adjuster screw
counterclockwise. When the screw bottoms, turn it back turn.
8 Tighten the side cover bolts to the specified torque.
9 Carry out the adjustments described previously and tighten the
lash adjuster screw locknut.
10 Install the Pitman arm.

21 Turn signal switch - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the steering

wheel as detailed in Section 16.
2 Remove the steering column trim cover located at the base of the
dashboard.
3 At the end of the steering column, late models have a plastic cover
Fig. 11.14 Exploded view of pot joint coupling (Sec 18) plate which should be pried out of the column using a screwdriver in
the slots provided (photo).
7 Stop ring 4 The lock plate will now have to be removed from the steering
6 Snap-ring
2 Upper shaft column. This is held in place with a snap ring which fits into a groove
7 Bearings
3 Coupling bolt in the steering shaft. The lock plate must be depressed to relieve
8 Clip
4 Nut pressure on the snap ring. A special U-shaped tool which fits on the
9 Seal
5 Coupling shaft should be used to depress the lock plate as the snap ring is
10 Lower shaft
removed from its groove (photo).
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 277

5 Slide the cancelling cam, upper bearing preload spring and thrust
washer off the end of the shaft,
6 Remove the turn signal lever attaching screw and withdraw the
turn signal lever from the side of the column.
7 Push in on the hazard warning knob and unscrew the knob from
the threaded shaft.
8 Remove the three turn signal assembly mounting screws (photo).
9 Pull the switch wiring connector out of the bracket on the steering
column jacket. Tape the connector terminals to prevent damage. Feed
the wiring connector up through the column support bracket and pull
the switch, wiring harness and connectors out the top of the steering
column.
10 Installation is a reversal of removal, however, make sure the wiring
harness is in the protector as it is pulled into position. Before installing
the thrust washer, upper bearing preload spring and cancelling cam,
make sure the switch is in the neutral position and the warning knob
is pulled out. Always use a new snap ring on the shaft for the lock
plate.

22 Ignition lock cylinder - removal and installation

21.3 Removing the plastic cover with a screwdriver 1974 thru 1978
1 The lock cylinder is located on the upper right-hand side of the
steering column. The lock cylinder should only be removed in the
'RUN' position, otherwise damage to the warning buzzer switch may
occur.
2 Remove the steering wheel (Section 16) and directional signal
switch (Section 21). Note: The directional signal switch need not be
fully removed provided that it is pushed rearwards far enough for it to
be slipped over the end of the shaft. Do not pull the harness out of the
column.
3 Insert a thin blade or driver into the slot in the turn signal switch
housing. Break the housing flash loose and at the same time depress
the spring latch at the lower end of the lock cylinder. Holding the latch
depressed withdraw the lock cylinder from the housing.
4 The lock cylinder cannot be dismantled; a new one (coded to
accept the original key) must be installed in the original cylinder sleeve
after the assembly has been dismantled by releasing the cylinder to
sleeve staking.
5 To assemble the new lock cylinder to the sleeve, insert the ignition
key part way into the lock and then place the wave washer and anti-
theft ring onto the lower end of the lock cylinder, making sure that the
plastic keeper in the sleeve protrudes.
6 Now align the lock bolt on the cylinder and the tab of the anti-theft
washer with the slot in the sleeve. Push the lock cylinder fully onto the
sleeve and then insert the ignition key fully and rotate the cylinder
clockwise.
21.4 The steering column lock plate is held tightly in place by a
7 Rotate the lock counterclockwise to 'LOCK'.
snap ring on the center shaft (the plate must be depressed as the
8 Secure the lock assembly in the jaws of a vise suitably protected
snap ring is pried off)
with wood or cloth. Install the adaptor ring onto the lower end of the
cylinder so that the finger of the adaptor is located at the step in the
sleeve and the serrated edge of the adaptor can be seen after
assembly to the cylinder. The key must also be free to rotate at least
120°.

Adapter

Anti-theft ring

Wave washer

W 47*«

Lock cylinder
sleeve

Ignition lock cylinder

21.8 The turn signal mechanism is held in place with 3 screws and Fig. 11.15 Ignition lock cylinder (Sec 22)
can be drawn off the column once the lever is removed
 278 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

7 Install the switch with the contacts towards the upper end of the
steering column and with the formed end of the spring clip at the lower
end of the switch. Reinstall the remaining components referring to the
appropriate Sections.

24 Ignition switch - removal and installation

1 As a precaution against theft of the vehicle, the ignition switch is

located inside the channel section of the brake pedal support and
remotely controlled by a rod and rack assembly from the ignition lock
cylinder.

1974 thru 1976

2 To remove the ignition switch, the steering column must either be
removed or lowered and well supported. There is no need to remove
the steering wheel.
3 Before removing the switch (two screws) set it to the 'LOCK'
position. If the lock cylinder and actuating rod have already been
Fig. 11.16 Breaking turn signal housing flash to release lock removed, the LOCK' position of the switch can be determined by
cylinder (Sec 22) inserting a screwdriver in the actuating rod slot and then moving the
switch slide up until a definite stop is felt and then moving it down one
9 Tap the adaptor onto the cylinder until it is at the bottom of the detent.
cylinder flats and the cylinder projects about £ inch above the adaptor. 4 Installation is a reversal of removal but again the switch must be
10 Using a small punch, stake the lock cylinder over the adaptor ring in the LOCK' position and the original or identical type securing
in four positions just outboard of the four dimples. screws must be used. Longer or thicker screws could cause the
11 To install the new lock cylinder/sleeve assembly, hold the sleeve collapsible design of the steering column to become inoperative.
and rotate the lock clockwise against the stop. 5 When installing the steering column, refer to Section 25.
12 Insert the cylinder/sleeve assembly into the housing so that the
key on the cylinder sleeve is aligned with the housing key way.
1977 thru 1980
13 Insert a 0.070 in diameter drill between the lock bezel and the
6 On these models, the switch should be set to the 'OFF-UN¬
housing and then rotate the cylinder counterclockwise, maintaining
LOCKED' position before removal. If the lock cylinder has already been
pressure on the cylinder until the drive section mates with the sector.
removed, the switch actuating rod should be pulled up until a definite
14 Press in the lock cylinder until the snap-ring engages in the
stop is felt and then pushed down two detents.
grooves and secures the cylinder in the housing. Remove the drill and
check the lock action. 7 Before installing the switch, set it to the 'OFF-UNLOCK' position
and set the gearshift lever in neutral. Setting the switch should be
15 Install the turn signal switch and the steering wheel.
carried out in the following way. Move the switch slider two positions
to the right from ACCESSORY' to OFF/UNLOCK'. Fit the actuator rod
1979 thru 1980
into the slider hole and assemble to the steering column using two
16 The lock cylinder should be removed in the 'RUN' position only. screws. These screws must be of the original type and only tighten the
17 Remove the steering wheel (Section 16) and turn signal switch lower one to 35 in-lb torque.
(Section 21). It is not necessary to completely remove the switch. Pull
it up and over the end of the steering shaft. Do not pull the wiring
harness out of the column.
25 Steering column - removal and installation
18 Remove the ignition key warning switch (Section 23).
1 9 Using a magnetized screwdriver, remove the lock retaining screw.
1 Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Do not allow this screw to drop down into the column as this will
2 Remove the steering wheel.
require a complete disassembly of the steering column to retrieve the
screw. 3 Remove the nuts and washers securing the flanged end of the
steering shaft to the flexible couplings. On later models, loosen the
20 Pull the lock cylinder out of the side of the steering column.
front dash mounting plates.
21 To install, rotate the lock cylinder set and align the cylinder key
with the keyway in the steering column housing. 4 Disconnect the transmission control linkage (column shift) or
backdrive linkage (floor shift).
22 Push the lock all the way in and install the retaining screw.
5 Disconnect the steering column harness at the connector and the
23 Install the remaining components referring to the appropriate
Sections. neutral start switch and back-up lamp switch connectors if so
equipped.
6 On 1 974 models, remove the screws which secure the 2 halves of
the floor pan cover, then remove the screws securing the halves and
23 Ignition key warning switch - removal and installation
seal to floor pan. Remove the covers.
7 On 1975 thru 1976 vehicles, remove the column plate-to-floor
1 The ignition key warning switch is located within the column pan screws.
housing. It can be removed with or without the ignition lock cylinder.
8 For 1977 on, the removal operations are similar to those men¬
2 Remove the steering wheel (Section 16).
tioned above except the intermediate shaft coupling should be
3 Follow the procedures outlined in Section 21 for removing the
separated from the lower end of the steering column by removal of the
turn signal switch, however do not completely remove the switch. Pull
connecting bolt. Extract the screws which secure the two halves of the
the switch over the end of the column shaft. Do not pull the wiring
floorpan cover and remove the covers.
harness out of the steering column.
9 Remove the transmission indicator cable, where applicable.
4 If the ignition lock cylinder is still intact, set the key to the 'ON'
10 For accessibility, move the front seat to its rearward position.
position.
1 1 Remove the column bracket-to-instrument panel nuts, then with
5 Use a piece of stiff wire (a paper clip will work fine) to remove the
the help of an assistant, remove the assembly from the vehicle.
switch. Make a hook at the end of the wire and lip this hooked end into
12 The following assembly operations must be strictly adhered to in
the loop of the clip at the top of the switch. Pull up on the wire and
order that the built-in safety design characteristics of the steering
remove the clip and switch together from the steering column. Do not
column will be able to function properly in an accident.
allow the clip to fall down into the column.
13 Refer to the accompanying illustration (1979 shown) and as¬
6 If the lock cylinder is still in the column, the buzzer switch
semble the lower dash cover to the seal.
actuating button (on the lock cylinder) must be depressed before the
14 Loosely assemble the covers to the column. The dash cover must
new warning switch can be installed.
be able to slide on the mast jacket.
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 279

Fig. 11.17 Steering column installation diagram (see text for key) (Sec 25)

15 Attach the bracket to the jacket and install the bolts 1,2,3 and 4 12 Remove the shift lever spring from the gearshift housing, or the
in that order. lock tube spring, as applicable.
16 Install the ignition switch connector to the ignition switch. 13 Pull the steering shaft from the lower end of the jacket assembly.
1 7 Install the steering column into the vehicle and connect the flange 14 Remove the back-up switch or neutral safety switch (2 screws).
to the flexible coupling. Fit the lockwasher and nuts into place. 1 5 Remove the lower bearing retainer.
16 Automatics and f/oorshifts: Remove the lower bearing retainer,
18 Fit the nuts (A and B) loosely.
19 Locate the lower cover to the dash by starting screw (9) in its hole. adaptor assembly, shift tube spring and washer. Press out the lower
20 Install the screws in the following order, tightening each one as it bearing by applying pressure to the outer race then slide out the shift
tube assembly.
is installed: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9.
1 7 Column shift (manual transmission): Remove the lower bearing
21 Install and tighten the two cover screws.
adaptor, bearing and first/reverse shift lever. Press out the lower
bearing by applying pressure to the outer race. Remove 3 screws from
26 Steering column (standard version) - disassembly and the lower end bearing and slide out the shift tube assembly.
reassembly 18 From the upper end of the mast jacket, remove the gearshift
housing lower bearing.
1 Remove the four dash panel bracket-to-steering column screws 19 Replace any worn components and commence reassembly by
and retain the bracket so that the mounting capsules will not be applying a thin coating of lithium soap grease to all friction surfaces,
and then installing the sector into the turn signal housing. To do this,
damaged.
2 Secure the column in a vise by gripping one set only of the weld reach through the lock cylinder hole, place the sector onto the shaft
nuts. using a blunt tool.
3 Remove the directional signal switch and lock cylinder, and the 20 Install the shift gate onto the housing.
ignition key warning switch and the ignition switch as described 21 Insert the rack preload spring into the housing from the lower end
so that both ends of the spring are attached to the housing.
previously.
4 On column shift models, drive out the upper shift lever pivot pin 22 Assemble the locking bolt to the crossover arm on the rack.
23 Insert the rack and lock bolt assembly into the housing (teeth
and remove the shift lever.
5 Remove the upper bearing and thrust washer. upwards). Align the first tooth on the sector with the first tooth on the
6 Remove the 4 screws which attach the directional signal switch rack so that the block teeth will line up when the rack assembly is
and ignition lock housing to the jacket; remove the housing assembly. pushed right in.
7 Take out the thrust cap from the lower side of the housing. 24 Install the thrust cup into the housing.
8 Lift the ignition switch actuating rod and rack assembly together 25 Install the gearshift housing lower bearing, aligning the indenta¬
with the shaft lock bolt and spring assembly from the housing. tions with the projections in the jacket.
26 Install the shift lever spring into the housing.
9 Remove the shift gate.
10 Remove the ignition switch actuator sector through the lock 27 Install the housing and shroud assemblies onto the mast jacket,
cylinder hole by pushing on the block tooth sector with a rod or punch. rotating slightly to ensure proper seating in the bearing.
1 1 Remove the gearshift lever housing and shroud, or the trans¬ 28 With the shift lever housing in position, and the gearshift housing
at 'park', pull the rack downwards and install the directional signal
mission control lock tube housing and shroud, as applicable.
280

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 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 281

LOCK iOLT
LOCK CYLINDER

Fig. 11.19 Standard column locking and neutral start systems Fig. 11.20 Tilt column locking and neutral start systems (Sec 27)
(Sec 26)

switch and lock cylinder housing onto the jacket. When seated, install 1 1 Remove the transmission indicator wire, where applicable.
the 4 screws. 12 Remove the 4 screws retaining the shaft bearing housing support
29 Press the lower bearing fully into the adaptor assembly. followed by the housing support. Remove the ignition switch actuator
30 Automatics and floorshifts: Assemble the spring, and the lower rod.
bearing and adaptor assembly into the bottom of the jacket. Hold the 13 Using a suitable extractor, remove the shift tube (or transmission
adaptor in place then install the lower bearing reinforcement and control lock tube - floorshift) from the lower end of the mast jacket.
retainer. Ensure that the retainer snaps into the slots. 14 Remove the bearing housing support lockplate by sliding out of
31 Column shift (manual transmission): Loosely install the 3 screws in the jacket notches and tipping it down towards the hub at the 12
the jacket and shift tube bearing. Assemble the first/reverse lever, and o'clock position. Slide it under the jacket opening and remove the
lower bearing and adaptor assembly into the bottom of the jacket. wave washer.
Hold the adaptor in place then install the bearing reinforcement and 1 5 Remove the shift lever housing or lock tube housing from the mast
retainer. Ensure that the retainer snaps into the slots. Place a 0.005 jacket. Remove the shift lever spring by winding it up with pliers, then
inch shim (feeler) between the first/reverse lever and spacer then turn pulling it out. On floor change models the spring plunger has to be
the upper shift tube bearing down and tighten the 3 screws. Finally removed.
remove the shim. 16 To disassemble the bearing housing, remove the tilt lever opening
32 Install the neutral safety or back-up switch. shield then take out the lock bolt spring by removing the retaining
33 Slide the steering shaft into the column then install the upper screw and moving the spring clockwise.
bearing thrust washer. 17 Remove the snap-ring from the sector driveshaft then use a small
34 Install the ignition key warning switch, directional signal switch, punch to lightly tap the driveshaft from the sector. Remove the
lock cylinder assembly and ignition switch, as described previously. driveshaft, sector, lockbolt, rack and rack spring.
35 Install the shift lever and shift lever pivot pin, then remove the 18 Drive out the tilt release lever then remove the lever and spring. To
assembly from the vise. relieve the load on the release lever, hold the shoes inwards and
36 Install the 4 dash bracket to column screws and torque-tighten. wedge a block between the top of the shoes (over the slots) and the
bearing housing.
19 Drive out the lock shoe retaining pin then the lock shoe springs.
27 Steering column (tilt version) - disassembly and reassembly Note: With the tilt lever opening on the left and the shoes uppermost,
the 4-slot shoe is on the left.
1 Initially follow the procedure given in paragraphs 1, 2 and 3 for 20 If the bearings are to be replaced, remove the separator and balls.
dismantling of the standard version column. Carefully drive out the race from the housing, followed by the second
2 Remove the tilt release lever then drive out the shift lever pivot pin race.
21 During the assembly procedure, all friction surfaces should be
and remove the shift lever from the housing.
lightly smeared with lithium based grease.
3 Remove the directional signal housing (3 screws).
22 Where dismantled, carefully press the bearing into the housing
4 Install the tilt release lever and move the column to the highest
position. Use a suitable screwdriver to remove the tilt lever spring using a suitable sized socket.
retainer by pressing inwards approximately ^ inch then turning -J- turn 23 Install the lockshoe springs, shoes and shoe pin, using a suitable
(45°) counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the rod (approx. 0.180 inch) for locating purposes.
24 Install the shoe release lever, spring and pin. To relieve the release
housing.
lever load, hold the shoes inwards and wedge a block between the top
5 Remove the pot joint to steering shaft clamp bolt then remove the
of the shoes (over the slots) and bearing housing.
intermediate shaft and pot joint assembly.
25 Install the sector driveshaft; lightly tap it on until the snap-ring can
6 Push the upper shaft in sufficiently to remove the upper bearing
inner race and seat. Pry off the lower bearing retainer and remove the be installed.
26 Install the lockbolt and engage it with the sector cam surface then
bearing reinforcement, bearing and bearing adaptor assembly from the
install the rack and spring. The block tooth on the rack must engage
lower end of the mast jacket.
correctly in the sector. Install the tilt release lever.
7 Withdraw the upper bearing housing pivot pins using a suitable
27 Install the lockbolt spring. Torque-tighten the retaining screw.
nut and bolt (GM tool no J-21854-1 is recommended).
28 Wind up the shift lever spring with pliers and install (push) it onto
8 Install the tilt release lever and disengage the lock shoes then
the housing. On floor shift models the plunger has to be installed.
remove the bearing housing by pulling upwards to extend the rack fully
29 Slide the gearshift lever housing onto the steering mast jacket.
down. Now move the housing to the left to disengage the ignition
30 Install the wave-washer for the bearing support lockplate.
switch rack from the actuator rod.
31 Install the lockplate, working it into the notches in the jacket by
9 Remove the steering shaft assembly from the upper end of the
tipping towards the housing hub at the 12 o'clock position and sliding
column, then the upper bearing seat and inner race.
it under the jacket opening. The lockplate can then be slid into the
10 Disassemble the shaft by removing the centering spheres and
notches in the jacket.
anti-lash spring.
282 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

Fig. 11.21 Tilt steering column components (Sec 27)

7 Shaft nut
53 Gearshift lever housing
2 Cover 79 Lock bolt spring 36 Ignition switch rack 54 Ignition switch screws
3 Lock plate retaining ring 20 Lock shoes spring 55 Ignition switch
4 Lock plate 21 Sector shaft 3 7 Ignition switch rack 56 Mast jacket
5 Cancelling cam 22 Lock shoe pin 38 Ignition switch rod 57 Neutral-safety or
6 Bearing preload spring 23 Bearing housing 39 Upper steering shaft back-up switch retainers
7 Directional signal screws 24 Tilt lever spring 40 Centering spheres 58 Shift tube
8 Directional signal switch retainer 41 Centre sphere spring 59 Lower bearing adaptor
9 Protector cover 25 Tilt lever spring 42 Lower steering shaft 60 Lower bearing
7 0 Upper bearing seat 26 Tilt lever spring guide 43 Screws 61 Lower bearing
7 7 Upper bearing race 27 Lock bolt spring screw 44 Bearing housing support reinforcement
12 Turn signal housing 28 Sector snap ring 45 Pin 62 Retainer
screws 29 Sector 46 Shift tube index plate 63 Pot joint bolt
13 Key warning switch 30 Bearing housing pivot screws 64 Nut
14 Switch clip pins 47 Shift tube index plate 65 Pot joint cover
15 Direction signal housing 31 Shoe release springs 48 Support retaining ring 66 Seal retaining ring
16 Tilt lever opening 32 Spring 49 Support thrust washer 67 Bearing spring
shield 33 Shoe release lever pin 50 Support plate lock 68 Bearing blocks
17 Upper bearing 34 Shoe release lever 51 Support wave washer 69 Pot joint seal
18 Shaft lock bolt 35 Lower bearing 52 Gearshift lever spring 70 Intermediate shaft

32 Carefully install the shift tube into the lower end of the mast downwards from the housing.
jacket, aligning the keyway in the tube with the key in the shift lever 39 Assemble the bearing housing over the steering shaft, engaging
housing. The next part of the operation ideally requires the use of GM the rack over the end of the actuator rod.
tool no J-23073 although by the judicious use of spacers, washers and 40 Install the external release lever then hold the lock shoes in the
a long bolt a suitable alternative can be made up. Install the tube as disengaged position and assemble the bearing housing over the
shown and pull the shift tube into the housing by rotating the outer steering shaft until the pivot pin holes align. Now install the pivot pins.
nut. Do not exert any load on the end of the shift tube and ensure that 41 Place the bearing housing in the fully up position then install the
the shift tube lever is aligned with the slotted opening at the lower end tilt lever spring guide, spring and spring retainer. Using a suitable
of the mast jacket. screwdriver, push in the retainer and turn clockwise to engage in the
33 Install the bearing support thrust washer and retaining ring by housing.
pulling the shift lever housing upwards to compress the wave washer. 42 Install the upper bearing inner race and seat.
34 Install the bearing support, aligning the V' in the support with the 43 Install the tilt lever opening shield.
V’ in the jacket. Insert the support to lockplate screws and torque- 44 Remove the tilt release lever, install the directional signal housing
tighten. and torque-tighten the 3 retaining screws.
35 Align the lower bearing adapter with the notches in the jacket then 45 Install the tilt release lever and the shift lever, then drive in the
push the adapter into the lower end. Install the lower bearing, bearing shift lever pin.
reinforcement and retainer, ensuring that the slip is aligned with the 46 Install the ignition key warning switch, lock cylinder, directional
slots in the reinforcement, jacket and adapter. signal switch and ignition switch, as described previously.
36 Install the centering spheres and anti-lash spring in the upper shaft 47 Align the grooves across the upper end of the pot joint with the
then install the lower shaft from the same side of the spheres as the steering shaft flat and assemble the intermediate shaft assembly to the
spring ends protrude. upper shaft. Install the clamp and bolt, and torque-tighten.
37 Install the steering shaft assembly into the shift tube from the 48 Install the neutral safety or back-up switch.
upper end, guiding the shaft carefully through the tube and bearing. 49 Install the 4 dash panel bracket to column screws and torque-
38 Install the ignition switch actuator rod through the shift lever tighten. Note: Ensure that the slotted openings in the bracket face the
housing and insert it in the bearing support slot. Extend the rack upper end of the column.
 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering 283

28 Power steering - general description 30 Power steering gear - removal and installation

With the optional power steering gear, hydraulic pressure is 1 The procedure is similar to that described previously for the
generated in an engine-driven vane type pump and supplied through manual type except that the hydraulic hoses must be disconnected
hoses to the steering box spool valve. The valve is normally positioned from the steering gear housing.
in the neutral mode by a torsion bar but when the steering wheel is 2 Plug the ends of the hoses and the fluid inlet and outlet holes in
turned and force is applied to the steering shaft then the spool moves the housing.
in relation to the body and allows oil to flow to the appropriate side of 3 When installation is complete, bleed the system as described in
the piston nut. The greater the movement of the steering wheel, the Section 32.
greater the hydraulic pressure which is applied and therefore the
greater the power assistance given to the drive.
Apart from the procedures given in the following sections, it is
31 Power steering pump - removal and installation
recommended that where any major fault develops, rectification is
entrusted to a dealer or specialist in power steering systems.
1 Disconnect the hydraulic hoses either from the pump or the
steering gear and keep them in the raised position to prevent the fluid
draining away until they can be plugged.
29 Power steering - maintenance and adjustment 2 Remove the pump drive belt by loosening the pump mounts and
pushing it in towards the engine.
1 The fluid level should be checked regularly, as described in 3 Unscrew and remove the pump mounting bolts and braces and
Chapter 1. remove the pump.
2 The pump drivebelt tension should be checked regularly, refer to 4 To remove the pump pulley it will almost certainly require the use
Chapter 1. of a special extractor, the type depending upon the actual pulley fitted.
3 The over-center adjustment is the only adjustment which can be Consult your dealer if the pulley is to be removed.
satisfactorily carried out without removing the steering gear from the 5 Installation is a reversal of removal but tighten the hose unions to
vehicle. the specified torque and then fill the fluid reservoir.
4 if the vehicle is equipped with a tilt column, disconnect the column
flexible coupling. Using a torque wrench or a spring balance attached
to the steering wheel nut obtain and record the steering shaft turning
torque. Reconnect the coupling (if installed).
5 Disconnect the Pitman arm from the relay rod.
6 Loosen the Pitman shaft adjusting screw locknut and unscrew the
adjuster screw out of the side cover as far as it will go.
7 Disconnect the battery ground cable.
8 Remove the horn button (already carried out on tilt column
vehicles).
9 Turn the steering wheel from stop to stop through its full travel
and then turn it to its center (wheels straight ahead) position.
10 Now check the combined ball/thrust bearing preload using a
(pound/inch) torque wrench on the steering wheel nut and turning it a
quarter turn through the center position in both directions. Take the
highest reading. On vehicles equipped with a tilt column, subtract the
turning torque recorded earlier when the coupling was disconnected.
1 1 Tighten the Pitman shaft adjusting screw in small increments
rechecking the over-center preload between each adjustment until the
total gear preload falls within that specified (see Specifications
Section).
12 Tighten the adjuster screw locknut, install the Pitman arm, the
horn button and reconnect the battery ground cable.
Fig. 11.23 Typical power steering gear mounting (Sec 30)

6 Prime the pump by turning the pulley in the reverse direction to

that of normal rotation until air-bubbles cease to emerge from the fluid
when observed through the reservoir filler cap.
7 Install the drive belt and tension it as described in Chapter 1.
8 Bleed the system as described in Section 32 of this Chapter.

32 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding

1 This is not a routine operation and will normally only be required

when the system has been dismantled and reassembled.
2 Fill the reservoir to its correct level with fluid of recommended
type, and allow it to remain undisturbed for at least 2 minutes.
3 Start the engine and run it for two or three seconds only. Check
the reservoir fluid level and top-up if necessary.
4 Repeat the operations described in the preceding paragraph until
the fluid level remains constant.
5 Raise the front of the vehicle until the wheels are clear of the
ground.
6 Start the engine and increase its speed to about 1 500 rpm. Now
turn the steering wheel gently from stop-to-stop. Check the reservoir
fluid level adding some if necessary.
7 Lower the vehicle to the ground and with the engine still running
Fig. 11.22 Power steering gear over-center adjustment (Sec 29) move the vehicle forward sufficiently to obtain full right lock followed
284 Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

by full left lock. Re-check the fluid level. If the fluid in the reservoir is specifications for the correct value.
extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stand for a few minutes with the 9 Toe-in or toe-out can be altered by increasing or decreasing the
engine switched off and then repeat the previous operations. length of the tie-rods. For 1975 models, the tie-rods must be
8 Air in the power steering system is often indicated by a noisy decreased in length to increase the toe-in; for other models the tie-rod
pump but a low fluid level can also cause this. length must be increased to increase the toe-in. Where any adjustment
is made, the screwed sleeves should be turned by equal amounts at
each side.
1 0 Where new tie-rods, tie-rod ends or steering components have
33 Front wheel alignment and steering angles
been installed, always commence adjustment with the overall lengths
of the tie-rods exactly equal. Take the measurements from the balljoint
1 Accurate front wheel alignment is essential for good steering and
centers and have the wheels and steering wheel in the straight-ahead
slow tire wear. Before considering the steering angles; check that the
position.
tires are correctly inflated, that the front wheels are not buckled, the
hub bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted and that the steering
linkage is in good order, without slackness or wear at the joints.
2 Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
Camber which is the angle at which the front wheels are set from 34 Wheels and tires
the vertical when viewed from the front of the car. Positive camber is
the amount (in degrees) that the wheels are tilted outwards at the top 1 The wheels are of pressed steel type and the tires may be
from the vertical. conventional, radial or bias belted. Never mix tires of different
Caster is the angle between the steering axis and a vertical line construction on the same axle.
when viewed from each side of the car. Positive caster is when the 2 Check the tire pressures weekly, including the spare, preferably
steering axis is inclined rearward. when the tires are cold, first thing in the morning.
Steering axis inclination is the angle, when viewed from the front 3 The wheel nuts should be tightened to the specified torque, and it
of the car, between the vertical and an imaginary line drawn between is an advantage if a smear of grease is applied to the wheel stud
the upper and lower suspension control arm balljoints. threads.
Toe-in is the amount by which the distance between the front 4 Every 7500 miles, the wheels should be moved round the vehicle
inside edges of the wheels (measured at hub height) is less than the in order to even out the tire tread wear. To do this, remove each wheel
diametrically opposite distance measured between the rear inside in turn, clean it thoroughly (both sides) and remove any stones which
edges of the front wheels. may be embedded in the tread. Check the tread wear pattern which
3 On all other models, the caster and camber angles are set by will indicate any mechanical or adjustment faults in the suspension or
means of shims inserted between the upper control arm shaft and the steering components. Examine the wheel bolt holes for elongation or
frame bracket. wear. If such conditions are found, replace the wheel.
4 Due to the need for special gauges and equipment, it is not 5 Replacement of the tires should be carried out when the thickness
advised that camber or caster angles should be adjusted at home. of the tread pattern is worn to a minimum of ^ inch or the wear
5 To adjust the toe-in (which should only be done after establishing indicators (if incorporated) are visible.
that caster and camber are correct), obtain or make a toe-in gauge. 6 The method of moving the tires depends on whether the spare
Once can be made up from a length of tubing, cranked to clear the oil (5th) wheel is brought into the rotational pattern, and to the type off
pan and clutch or torque converter housing and having a screw and construction of the tire. With radial ply tires, move them front to rear
locknut at one end. on the same side only.
6 Use a gauge to measure the distance between the two inner 7 The type of tire and inflation pressures are recorded on a sticker
wheel rims at hub height at the rear of the wheels. located on the vehicle door and the specification varies according to
7 Push the vehicle to rotate the wheel through 180° (half a turn) the particular vehicle model and tires fitted. Always adjust the front
and then measure the distance between the inner wheel rims at hub and rear tire pressures after moving the wheels round as previously
height at the front of the wheels ('Y'). described.
8 The distance between the two measurements is the toe-in (where 8 Have all wheels balanced initially and again half way through the
the first measurement is larger than the second). Refer to the useful life of the tires.
Chapter 12 Bodywork
Contents

Bodywork and frame repairs - major damage. 6 Hood latch and lock assemblies - removal and installation. 12
Bumpers - removal and installation. 10 Hood - removal and installation. 8
Door exterior handle - removal and installation. 20 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe. 2
Door lock assembly - removal and installation. 19 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets. 3
Door lock cylinder - removal and installation. 18 Maintenance - vinyl roof covering. 4
Door - removal and installation. 23 Minor body damage - repair. 5
Door trim panel - removal and installation. 17 Tailgate - removal and installation. 25
Door window glass - removal and installation. 21 Trunk lid - adjustments. 14
Door window regulator - removal and installation. 22 Trunk lid — removal and installation. 13
Front fenders and skirt - removal and installation. 1 1 Trunk lid lock assembly - removal, adjusting and installation. 16
General description. 1 Trunk lid lock cylinder - removal and installation. 15
Grille - removal and installation. 9 Windshield and back window - removal and installation. 24
Hood - adjustment. 7

1 General description 3 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets

Buick "A" body cars (Century and Regal) are available in a variety 1 Remove the carpets or mats and thoroughly vacuum clean the
of trim packages. Bodies are based on a 2-door, 4-door and wagon. interior of the vehicle every three months or more frequently if
Body panels often subject to damage can be replaced by the necessary.
owner. These panels and parts are: bumpers, grille, front body panel, 2 Beat out the carpets and vacuum clean them if they are very dirty.
fenders, inner fender skirts, doors, trunk, and radiator support panel. If the upholstery is soiled apply an upholstery cleaner with a damp
For major repairs or replacement of parts other than these, it is sponge and wipe off with a clean dry cloth.
suggested that the owner contact a competent body repair shop. 3 Consult you local dealer or auto parts store for cleaners made
especially for newer automotive upholstery fabrics. Always test the
cleaner in an inconspicuous place.
2 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe

1 The condition of your vehicle's bodywork is of considerable 4 Maintenance - vinyl roof covering
importance as it is on this that the resale value will mainly depend. It
is much more difficult to repair neglected bodywork than to replace Under no circumstances try to clean any external vinyl roof
mechanical assemblies. The hidden portions of the body, such as the covering with detergents, caustic soap or spirit cleaners. Plain soap
wheel arches, fender skirts, the underframe and the engine compart¬ and water is all that is required, with a soft brush to clean dirt that may
ment are equally important, although obviously not requiring such be ingrained. Wash the covering as frequently as the rest of the
frequent attention as the immediately visible paint. vehicle. Application of wax or one of the many vinyl condi¬
2 Once a year or every 1 2 000 miles it is a sound scheme to visit tioner/cleaners will help retard depletion of the oils in the vinyl and
your local dealer and have the underside of the body steam cleaned. prevent cracking.
All traces of dirt and oil will be removed and the underside can then
be inspected carefully for rust, damaged hydraulic pipes, frayed
electrical wiring and similar trouble areas. The front suspension should
be greased on completion of this job. 5 Minor body damage - repair
3 At the same time, clean the engine and the engine compartment
either using a steam cleaner or a water-soluble cleaner. See photo sequence on pages 286 and 287.
4 The wheel arches and fender skirts should be given particular
attention as undercoating can easily come away here and stones and Repair of minor scratches in the vehicle's bodywork
dirt thrown up from the wheels can soon cause the paint to chip and If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the
flake, and so allow rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the metal of the bodywork, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the
bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint. scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to
5 The bodywork should be washed once a week or when dirty. remove loose paint from the scratch and to clear the surrounding
Thoroughly wet the vehicle to soften the dirt and then wash down with bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water.
a soft sponge and plenty of clean water. If the surplus dirt is not Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a thin paint brush;
washed off very gently, in time it will wear the paint down. continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in
6 Spots of tar or bitumen coating thrown up from the road surfaces the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new
are best removed with a cloth soaked in a cleaner made especially for paint at least two weeks to harden: then blend it into the surrounding
this purpose. paintwork by rubbing the paintwork, in the scratch area, with a
7 Once every six months, or more frequently depending on the paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax
weather conditions, give the bodywork and chrome trim a thoroughly polish.
good wax polish. If a chrome cleaner is used to remove rust on any of An alternative to painting over the scratch is to use a paint
the vehicle's plated parts, remember that the cleaner can also remove transfer. Use the same preparation for the affected area, then simply
part of the chrome, so use it sparingly. pick a patch of a suitable size to cover the scratch completely. Hold the
 This photo sequence illustrates the repair of a dent and After removing any adjacent body trim, hammer the dent out
damaged paintwork. The procedure for the repair of a hole is The damaged area should then be made slightly concave
similar. Refer to the text for more complete instructions

Use coarse sandpaper or a sanding disc on a drill motor to The damaged area should be treated with rust remover prior to
remove all paint from the damaged area. Feather the sanded application of the body filler. In the case of a rust hole, all rusted
area into the edges of the surrounding paint, using progressively sheet metal should be cut away
finer grades of sandpaper

Carefully follow manufacturer's instructions when mixing the Apply the filler with a flexible applicator in thin layers at 20
body filler so as to have the longest possible working time minute intervals. Use an applicator such as a wood spatula for
during application. Rust holes should be covered with fiberglass confined areas. The filler should protrude slightly above the
screen held in place with dabs of body filler prior to repair surrounding area
Shape the filler with a surform-type plane. Then, use water and Use spray or brush applied primer to cover the entire repair area
progressively finer grades of sandpaper and a sanding block to so that slight imperfections in the surface will be filled in. Prime
wet-sand the area until it is smooth. Feather the edges of the at least one inch into the area surrounding the repair. Be careful
repair area into the surrounding paint. of over-spray when using spray-type primer

Wet-sand the primer with fine (approximately 400 grade) After the filler paste has dried, use rubbing compound to ensure
sandpaper until the area is smooth to the touch and blended that the surface of the primer is smooth. Prior to painting, the
into the surrounding paint. Use filler paste on minor surface should be wiped down with a tack rag or lint-free cloth
imperfections soaked in lacquer thinner

Choose a dry, warm, breeze-free area in which to paint and After allowing at least two weeks for the paint to harden, use
make sure that adjacent areas are protected from over-spray. fine rubbing compound to blend the area into the original paint.
Shake the spray paint can thoroughly and apply the top coat to Wax can now be applied
the repair area, building it up by applying several coats, working
from the center
288 Chapter 12 Bodywork

patch against the scratch and burnish its backing paper; the paper will surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs
adhere to the paintwork, freeing itself from the backing paper at the of filler paste around its periphery.
same time. Polish the affected area to blend the patch into the Aluminum tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull
surrounding paintwork. a piece off the roll and trim it to the approximate size and shape
Where the scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape
bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a
a penknife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to
rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator fill the scratch the metal underneath.
with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with Having blocked off the hole the affected area must now be filled
cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling and sprayed - see Section on bodywork fitting and re-spraying.
narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens,
wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
Bodywork repairs - filling and re-spraying
finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly sweep it across the surface
Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch,
of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
rust holes and gash repairs.
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking
over as described earlier in this Section.
those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic
Repair of dents in the vehicle's bodywork or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
When deep denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the well contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board - measure the
attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack)
original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly.
stretched on impact and cannot be reshaped fully to its original Using the applicator apply the filler paste to the prepared area;
contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the
is about £ in (3 mm) below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In correct contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that
cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to approximates the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste - if
pull it out at all. you carry on too long the paste will become sticky and begin to 'pick
If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out up' on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at
gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. twenty-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just proud of the
Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the surrounding bodywork.
impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the Once the filler has hardened, excess can be removed using a metal
bodywork from being 'belled-out'. plane or file. From then on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has double should be used, starting with a 40 grade production paper and
skin or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a finishing with 400 grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the sand¬
different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the paper around a flat rubber, cork or wooden block - otherwise the
metal inside the area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing
long self-tapping screws into the holes just sufficiently for them to gain of the filler surface the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed
a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the
pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. filler at the final stage.
The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the At this stage the 'repair area' should be surrounded by a ring of
damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding 'sound' bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely 'feathered'
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water,
abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone.
effectively by hand using sheets of sandpaper. To complete the Spray the whole repair area with a light coat of primer — this will
preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more
affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. smooth the surface with sandpaper. If bodystopper is used, it can be
To complete the repair see the Section on filling and re-sprayjjtg. mixed with cellulose thinners to form a really thin paste which is ideal
for filling small holes. Repeat this spray and repair procedure until you
Repair of rust holes or gashes in the^veffTcle's bodywork are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the
Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of paintwork are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water and allow
the surrounding 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire to dry fully.
brush on a power drill. If these are not available a few sheets of The repair area is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must
sandpaper will do the job just as effectively. With the paint removed be carried out in warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. This
you will be able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and therefore condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor
decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have
repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the
most people think and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a floor in the work area with water will help to settle the dust which
new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to
Remove all fittings from the affected area except those which will one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to
act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be
all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. masked off. Use genuine masking tape and several thicknesses of
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order to create a slight newspaper for the masking operations.
depression for the filler paste. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly,
Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the
inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible treat this thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint rather
also. than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the
Before filling can take place it will be necessary to block the hole surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
in some way. This can be achieved by the use of Zinc gauze or work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-
Aluminum tape. dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on
Zinc gauze is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut more paint.
a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using
position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the several thin layers of paint. Start spraying in the center of the repair
 Chapter 12 Bodywork 289

8.3 Use a scribe, felt pen or paint to mark the position of the hinge on 8.4 Remove the hood hinge bolts going into the hood (an assistant
the underside of the hood should be supporting the hood at this time)

area and then using a circular motion, work outwards until the whole adjusted and move the hood into the correct alignment. Move
repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is the hood only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge screws and
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying carefully lower the hood to check the position.
on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to c) Adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator support so that the
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, hood, when dosed, is flush with the fender and grille top
blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply surfaces.
wax polish. d) The hood catch and lock assembly is adjustable to provide a
positive dosing of the hood. The hood catch assembly on the
radiator support section has slotted mounting holes to allow
the catch to be moved into alignment with the hood lock bolt.
6 Bodywork and frame repairs - major damage
The lock bolt on the hood can be lengthened or shortened to
engage with the catch. When dosed properly the hood
1 Major damage must be repaired by competent mechanics with the
bumpers should be slightly compressed.
necessary welding and hydraulic straightening equipment.
2 If the damage has been serious it is vital that the frame is checked 3 The catch and lock assembly, as well as the hinges should be
for correct alignment as otherwise the handling of the vehicle will periodically lubricated to prevent sticking or jamming.
suffer and many other faults - such as excessive tire wear, and wear
in the transmission and steering - may occur.
3 There is a special body jig which most body repair shops have and
to ensure that all is correct it is important that this jig be used for all 8 Hood - removal and installation
major repair work.
1 Raise hood and support it in the extreme 'up' position. A 2x4 can
be used for this purpose. Do not bang the radiator with the support
7 Hood - adjustment material.
2 Place folded towels under the rear corners of the hood to prevent
1 When the hood is fully closed it should rest squarely on the various body damage.
rubber bumpers. You should not be able to 'rock' or pivot the hood on 3 Scribe a line around each hinge to aid in proper reinstallation
the bumpers. Airspace between the hood and fenders should be even (photo).
(looking from front to rear) on both sides. The hood is attached to the 4 With the help of an assistant, remove the bolts that hold the hood
car by 2 hinges. By moving the hood forward/rearward and from side to the hinges (photo). Have an assistant hold the hood while you
to side on these hinges the fit can be adjusted. remove the support.
2 By raising or lowering the bumpers (there are 4 adjustable 5 Carefully remove the hood from the car and lean it against the
bumpers: 2 on the radiator support and 2 at the rear) it is possible to wall. Place towels under the rear corners of the hood to prevent paint
control the vertical fit of the hood. The bumpers are threaded like bolts chipping.
and turning them in the desired direction can usually be accomplished
by hand. Some bumpers have a setting nut at their base. If this is the
case on your car, it will be necessary to loosen this nut before turning 9 Grille - removal and installation
the bumpers.
3 When a hood is slightly out of alignment (from left to right) it is 1974
often possible to correctly position it without loosening the hinges. Radiator grille
This is done by opening the latch and with the hood halfway up, 1 Disconnect the battery cables and remove battery.
pushing on the edge of the hood in the direction you want the hood to 2 Remove the 6 nuts that hold the grille in place and pull grille away
go. Usually 3 or 4 slight pushes will do a better job than one heavy from the car.
push. 3 Installation is the exact reverse procedure.
4 Major alignment adjustments to the hood must be made by Bumper grille
loosening the hinges. This is done as follows:
4 Put car into Park' and set emergency brake.
a) Scribe a line around the entire hinge plate to be repositioned. 5 Crawl under car and remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut on each of the
This will enable you to judge the amount of movement. 4 grille mounting brackets.
b) Loosen the appropriate screws on the hood hinge to be 8 Remove brackets and pull grille out from behind the bumpers.
Fig. 12.1 Typical front end body panel - 74 Regal shown (Sec 9)

Fig. 12.2 Typical fender-to-radiator support mounting (Sec 11)

r 291

Fig. 12.3 Typical wheel well mounting (Sec 11)

VIEW OF INSTALLED
SIDE MARKET LAMP

Fig. 12.4 Side marker lamp installation - typical (Sec 11)

V
 292 Chapter 12 Bodywork

7 Installation is the exact reverse procedure. support brace that runs the length of the bumper. By undoing the
1975 numerous bolts through this brace it is possible to completely
8 Disconnect battery cables and remove battery (Century only). disassemble the bumper.
9 Unhook parking light wiring at parking light (Century).
10 Undo the nuts that hold the grille in place and pull grille away from
car. 11 Front fenders and skirt — removal and installation
1 1 If the grille is being replaced it will be necessary to scavenge all
wiring, lamps and bezels off the old grille (Century). 1 To protect paint on adjoining panels, it is advisable to mask the
12 Installation is the exact reverse procedure. panels with tape. Do not apply masking tape to a car that has recently
1976 been parked in the sun and do not leave the tape on the car if it is to
2-door and Wagon be parked outside in direct sunlight.
13 Reach behind the grille and remove the 4 front screws and 2 bolts 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable. If the right fender is being
that secure radiator and pull grille away from car. Installation is the removed, disconnect both cables and remove the battery.
reverse procedure. 3 Set the parking brake, block the rear wheels and raise the vehicle.
2-door Century Use a jack stand or similar support to hold the car steady. Remove the
wheel.
14 Remove the 8 nuts on the back of each grille panel.
4 Remove the chrome headlight ring (1974 through 1977).
15 Pull grille back from front panel and lift it out from between the
radiator and the front panel. 5 The fender can now be removed by unbolting the 4 fender-to-
16 Installation is the reverse procedure. radiator bolts, the fender brace rod, and the 5 fender-to-body skirt
bolts. It is necessary to unbolt the hood hinge and support the hood.
2-door Century replacement grilles
6 Take out the retaining clip for the side marker lamp and remove
1 7 The replacement grilles are 6 small insert panels instead of the 2
the fender-to-wheel well panel bolts. Place a towel between the
grille halves.
bumper and the fender and walk the fender away and back (towards
18 Undo the 2 screws that hold each panel in the front body piece. the car door) from the car.
Pull grilles back and out from between radiator and body panel.
7 Disconnect and remove all cables, wiring harness clips, washer
19 Installation is the reverse but you must bend the tabs out to hold
reservoir, battery tray, etc. from inner skirt. Label all hoses and
the grille in place.
unconnected wiring for easy identification later on.
Regal 8 Remove the wheel well-to-radiator support and any body bolts.
20 Reach behind the grille and remove the 6 screws that hold the 9 The inner skirt can now be lifted clear of the car.
grille in place. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.
21 Pull the grille away from the car from the outside.
22 Installation is the reverse procedure.
1977
1 2 Hood latch and lock assemblies — removal and installation
23 Grille removal is the same as for 1976. Grille replacement for the
Regal is the same as for the Century replacement grille (1976). 1 To maintain the proper alignment of the catch and lock, open the
1978 hood and scribe a line around the lock plate on the hood and the catch
Century plate mechanism on the support brace.
24 Raise hood and unplug headlamp wiring. 2 Remove the catch plate assembly by removing the screws
25 Undo the 10 nuts and 1 screw that hold the grille and grille retaining the catch to the radiator support, center support and tie bar.
bracket to the front body panel. 3 Remove the screws retaining the lock plate to the inside of the
26 Pull grille away from the car. The headlamp housings may be loose hood.
as this is done. Be careful you don't let them fall. 4 Upon reinstallation, line up the identifying scribe marks on both
27 Installation is the reverse procedure. the catch plate and the lock plate and tighten the attaching screws. For
Regal further information on adjusting the hood see Section 7.
28 Raise hood and undo the 9 nuts and unhook the 2 tension springs
that hold grille in place.
29 Push grille in to clear the mounting studs. Tip grille back at top. Do 13 Trunk lid - removal and installation
not bang radiator cooling fins.
30 Push up gently and pull grille out from the bottom. 1 Open the trunk and place blankets or some form of protective
31 Installation is the reverse procedure. covering around the forward edge of the trunk opening to protect the
1979 window and body panel.
32 Procedure for grille removal is the same as for 1978. 2 If a trunk light installed, disconnect the wiring to it.
1980 3 Carefully scribe an outline of the hinge straps on the inner trunk
lid. This will enable you to replace the trunk lid in the same location
33 Raise hood and remove the 8 nuts and 2 screws that mount grille (photo).
to the front body panel.
4 With the aid of an assistant, remove the four attaching bolts and
34 Grille is pulled away from car to remove. It may require some
lift away the trunk lid (photo).
jiggling or tilting as the 1978 Regal grille does.
5 Installation is a reversal of the removal process, however make
35 Installation is the reverse procedure.
sure the trunk lid is installed in the same location and adjusted
properly (see Section 14).

10 Bumpers - removal and installation

14 Trunk lid - adjustments
1 Bumper supports and brackets are slotted to allow for alignment
and leveling of bumper. Before removal, it is a good idea to scribe 1 All adjustments for the trunk to be moved forward, rearward or
around each support and bracket and mark exactly where the bolts line sideways are done at the hinges. With the four retaining bolts slightly
up. This will make installing the bumpers much easier than it would loosened, move the trunk lid to the desired position and tighten the
otherwise be. bolts. Move the lid only a little at a time and check that the locking
2 Unless absolutely necessary, leave the energy absorbers on the assembly remains in line (Section 16).
vehicle when the bumpers are removed. 2 To adjust the trunk lid in an up or down fashion, and to align
3 Each bumper has 4 mounting bolts on each of its 2 energy properly with the rear quarter panels, shims should be installed
absorbers. Unbolting the bumper from the absorbers frees the bumper. between the hinge strap and the trunk lid. Loosen the appropriate
4 Have an assistant help you take the bumpers off the car. They are securing bolts enought to slide body shims into position and then
heavy and can fall on an unsuspecting mechanic. tighten the bolt(s). Carefully close the trunk lid, checking the alignment
5 Bumper trim, guards and chrome facing all bolt through the steel of the lock assembly and lid in relation to the quarter panels.
 Chapter 12 Bodywork
293

13.3 Like the hood, the trunk hinges should be 1 3.4 It may take 2 people to lift the trunk lid 1 5.2 The 2 retaining nuts for the lock cylinder
marked prior to removal away from the body once the bolts have been are accessible from the inside of the trunk
removed (an assistant should support the trunk
lid while you unbolt it)
3 Torque rods are incorporated to control the amount of effort of the handle to expose the crankshaft and clip. A special forked tool
needed to operate the trunk lid. The torque rod ends are located in is available to push the clip out of the groove, or you can carefully use
cutout notches adjacent to the hinges. They are adjusted as follows: a screwdriver (photo).
a) To increase the amount of effort required to raise the trunk lid 2 The handle which operates the door latch mechanism is retained
(which will make the lid easier to dose), move the torque with screws. It is first necessary to remove the decorative cover plate
rod(s) to a lower adjusting notch. (photo). With the screws removed, the remote control rod can be
b) To make the trunk lid rise easier (thus making the lid more disconnected from the rear of the handle and the handle assembly
removed from the door.
difficult to close), reposition the torque rod end(s) to a higher
notch. 3 Remove the inside locking knob by unscrewing it from its shaft.
4 On models equipped with a remote control mirror, remove the
To grip the end of the torque rod for adjusting, use a -J- inch pipe. Also, control escutcheon from the trim panel and disengage the control
it is not necessary for each side to be adjusted to the same notch cable.
position. 5 On models with an armrest built into the trim panel, remove the
screws which are located in the recessed area meant to be used to pull
the door shut.
6 If equipped with a separate armrest not intended to be a part of
15 Trunk lid lock cylinder - removal and installation the trim panel, remove the screws which attach it to the trim panel and
the inner door skin. The screws are sometimes hidden with decorative
1 The lock cylinder is secured to the rear body panel by two lock plugs which should be carefully pried out to reveal the screw.
nuts and washers. 7 Depending on the style and year of production, there may or may
2 Open the trunk lid and remove the two retaining nuts, washers and not be exposed screws securing a portion of the trim panel. If so,
guards (photo). remove any exposed screws.
3 For best access, lower the chrome bezel on the rear outside panel. 8 Where no screws can be readily seen, chances are that the panel
4 Remove the lock cylinder from the lock body. is held in place with retaining clips. To disengage these clips, insert a
5 When installing, make sure the lock cylinder shaft engages with flat, blunt tool (like a screwdriver blade wrapped with tape) between
the lock. the metal door skin and the trim panel. Carefully pry the door panel
away from the door, keeping the tool close to the clips to prevent
damage to the panel. Start at the bottom and work around the door
towards the top. The top section is secured at the window channel.
16 Trunk lid lock assembly — removal, adjusting and installation
Once the retaining clips are pried free, lift the trim panel upwards and
away from the door (photo).
1 To remove the lid lock assembly attached to the rear body panel,
9 Before installing the trim panel, check that all the trim retainer
first remove the lock cylinder as prevously described.
clips are in good condition and the water shield is correctly applied to
2 Scribe identifying marks around each of the lock attaching bolts
the metal door skin.
and then remove the bolts.
10 Engage the top of the trim panel first and then position the panel
3 Remove the lock assembly from the lock body.
correctly on the door. The cutout for the window winder can be used
4 The lid lock striker is attached to the inside of the trunk lid, secured
as a rough guide.
by screws. Before removing the screws, and the striker assembly, mark
1 1 Press the retaining clips into their respective cups or holes in the
the vertical position of the striker to enable the assembly to be
metal door skin. Pressure can be used by the palm of your hand or a
replaced in the same location.
clean rubber mallet.
5 Before attempting to adjust the lock striker or lock assembly, it is
12 Follow the removal process in the reverse order to install the
important that the trunk lid itself is correctly positioned.
various components to the door.
6 To check the engagement of the striker to the lock, place a small
13 To install the window crank handle, first install the retaining clip to
amount of modeling clay at both sides of the lock bolt. Carefully close
the handle, then push the handle onto the shaft. Check that the clip is
the trunk lid. Open the lid and check the impression left in the clay. The
properly seated in the shaft groove.
depression in the clay should be centered in the lock frame. Where
required, the lock frame can be adjusted sideways or the striker up or
down to obtain the proper engagement. These adjustments should be
18 Door lock cylinder - removal and installation
performed with the attaching bolts only slightly loosened, and the
components should be moved only a little at a time.
1 Remove the inside door trim as described in Section 17.
2 Raise the window to the full up position and pry the water shield
away from the inner door skin to gain access to the rear of the lock
17 Door trim panel - removal and installation cylinder.
3 To help prevent tools or inner door components from falling down
1 Remove the window crank handle. This is secured to the regulator to the bottom of the door cavity, place rags or newspapers inside the
shaft with a clip. The trim panel should be pushed away from the base cavity.
294 Chapter 12 Bodywork

17.1 The window crank is secured to the shaft with a retaining clip 17.2 Remove any decorative door trim from around the door handle
which must be removed, by gentle prying, from the shaft (use a before the trim panel is pried loose
screwdriver or a special tool and take care not to tear the door panel)

1 7.8 A screwdriver is used to gently pry the trim panel away from the 19.5 The attaching screws for the lock are in the doorjamb
door

4 With a screwdriver, slide the lock cylinder retaining clip (on the
20 Door exterior handle - removal and installation
inboard side of the outer door skin) out of the lock cylinder. Be careful
not to damage the outer door skin.
1 Remove the inside door trim panel and pry back the water shield
5 With the clip removed, the lock cylinder can be removed from the
at the rear of the door.
outside of the door.
2 Raise the window to the full up position.
6 Installation is a reversal of removal.
3 From inside the door, remove the two attaching nuts to the
exterior handle and remove the handle assembly from the outside of
the door. On some later models it will be necessary to first remove the
19 Door lock assembly - removal and installation guide bracket for access to the handle nuts. This bracket is held in
place with four screws on the door skin.
1 Remove the door trim panel as described in Section 17. 4 When installing, make sure the handle gasket is in good condition
2 Pry back the water shield at the rear of the door to gain access to to prevent water leaks. The installation procedure is a reversal of
the inside locking assembly. removal.
3 Temporarily install the window crank and roll the window to the
full up position.
4 Working through the large access hole in the inner door skin,
disconnect the connecting rod at the lock mechanism. This rod is held
in place with a gripper clip which is released by rotating it off the rod. 21 Door window glass - removal and installation
5 Remove the three lock attaching screws located in the doorjamb
at the rear of the door (photo). Remove the lock assembly through the Note: If equipped with power windows, have a dealer or glass
access hole. specialist perform this procedure.
6 Installation is a reversal of removal. 1 Remove the door trim panel (Section 17).
 Chapter 12 Bodywork 295

2 Mark the location and remove the door window and inner panel
cam (Section 21).
3 Remove the regulator-to-inner door attaching fasteners. Early
models use bolts, while later models have rivets which must be
carefully drilled out with a ^--inch drilI bit. Remove the regulator
through the large access hole.
4 When installing, if rivets were drilled out, U-nuts on the regulator
body and -j--20xy inch attaching screws should be substituted. Tighten
attaching screws or bolts and reverse the removal sequence.

23 Door - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the battery ground cable.

2 Open the door fully and support it on blocks and cloth pads placed
under its lower edge.
3 If the vehicle is equipped with power-operated windows, remove
the trim panel and disconnect the regulator wiring harness.
4 Prior to removal of doors, scribe round the fitted position of the
hinge on the door.
5 Using a cranked wrench, and with an assistant supporting the
weight of the door, remove the door hinge retaining bolts.
6 Having removed the door, it is now possible to remove the hinge
from the hinge pillar, but again scribe round the fitted position first.
7 Refitting doors and hinges is the reverse of the removal procedure.
If necessary the hinge positions may be altered slightly to ensure
correct alignment.
Note: When refitting the door, ensure that the lock striker fork-bolt
engages with the striker. If necessary the position of the fork bolt can
be adjusted by loosening with a wrench, repositioning, then retighten¬
ing.

Fig. 12.5 Front door lock cylinder assembly (Sec 18)

24 Windshield and back window - removal and installation
2 Remove the inner water shield.
3 Remove the up-travel stops at the front and rear of the door. 1 These operations are best left to specialists as the glass is retained
4 Loosen the front and rear belt trim support retainers located at the by quick setting adhesive/caulk material which leaves no room for
top of the door in the window channel. error in application or positioning of the windshield.
5 Position the window in the three-quarter-down position and 2 The rear view mirror support is bonded to the windshield and can
remove the lower sash channel to glass attaching nuts through the only be removed by extremely careful application of heat from an air
small access holes in the inner door skin. gun (250° to 350°F) — another job for a specialist.
6 Lift the window straight up and out of the channel, aligning the
rollers with the notches provided in the inner door skin.
7 Installation is a reversal of removal, however, install all attaching
25 Tailgate - removal and installation
screws loosely and adjust the channels, guides and stops as necessary
before finally tightening the fasteners.
1 Pad the rear bumper with towels. Lower the window fully. Open
the tailgate. If your car has a "magic" tailgate, open it in the door
position.
22 Door window regulator - removal and installation 2 Reach in behind the access panel and unplug any wiring that goes
into the tailgate.
Note: If equipped with power windows, have a dealer or glass 3 Have an assistant support the gate, and using an impact screw¬
specialist perform this procedure. driver, remove the gate from its hinges.
1 Remove the door inner trim panel and water shield (Section 17). 4 Installation is the reverse procedure.
Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions
and information on 1981 and later models
Contents

Introduction. 1 Port-type fuel injection — general information

Specifications. 2 Releasing fuel injection system pressure
Engine. 3 Air and fuel filter replacement
General information Carburetor adjustments
Camshaft — removal and Engine electrical systems. 6
installation (307 Pontiac V8 engine only) General description — distributor
Turbocharger. 4 Distributor — overhaul
General information Automatic transmission . 7
Wastegate actuator assembly — removal and installation Column shift linkage adjustment
Turbocharger — removal and installation Throttle valve (TV) cable — inspection and adjustment
Exhaust inlet pipe — removal and installation Chassis electrical system. 8
Wastegate actuator — removal and installation Instrument cluster housing — removal and installation
Intercooler — general information Wiring diagrams
Fuel and exhaust systems. 5
General information

1 Introduction

This supplement contains specifications and service procedure Where no differences (or very minor differences) exist between 1 981
changes that apply to Buick mid-size rear wheel drive models produced through 1 987 models and earlier models, no information is given. In
from 1981 through 1987. Also included is information related to such instances, the original material included in Chapters 1 through 1 2
previous models that was not available at the time of the original should be used.
publication of this manual.

2 Specifications

Note: The following specifications are revisions of or supplementary to those listed at the beginning of each Chapter of this manual. The original
specifications apply unless alternative information is included here.
Engine — 1983 and 1984 V6
General
Displacement . 231 and 252 cu in
Bore and stroke
231 cu in 3.800 X 3.400 in
252 cu in 3.965 X 3.400 in
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 297

Pistons and piston rings

Piston clearance limits (231 cu in)
Non-turbo
T°P land. 0.046 to 0.056 in
Sklrt t0P. 0.0008 to 0.0020 in
Skirt bottom. 0.0013 to 0.0035 in
Turbo
Skirt at piston pin centerline. 0.0022 to 0.0034 in
Skirt bottom. 0.0008 to 0.0026 in
Torque specifications Ft-lb
Engine balancer assembly-to-crankshaft bolt
1983 and 1984 . 225
1 985 on . 200

Turbocharger
Torque specifications Ft-lb
Turbocharger exhaust outlet pipe-to-turbine housing
Through 1985 . 15
1986 on . 20
Elbow assembly-to-turbine. 15
Exhaust inlet pipe
Through 1 985 . 15
1 986 on . 23
Oil feed pipe. 7
CHRA-to-turbine housing. 15
CHRA-to-compressor. 13
Throttle body-to-compressor. 20
Oil drain-to-compressor
Through 1 984 . 20
1 985 on . 22
Wastegate actuator mounting bolt.'. 22
Bracket bolts and nuts
Through 1985 . 22
1 986 on . 20

Engine — 1986 and 1987 V8 (307 cu in Pontiac VIN code Y)

Note: This engine is virtually identical to the 1977 Oldsmobile 350/403 CID V8 engines covered in Chapter 2. The specifications
included here are only those that differ from the specifications for the Olsmobile 350/403 engines in Chapter 2. For all specifications
not listed here, refer to Chapter 2, Part A.
General
Bore and stroke. 3.800 X 3.385 in

Pistons and piston rings

Nominal piston outside diameter 3.800 in
Clearance at thrust surface . . . 0.00075 to 0.00175 in
Ring gap (top and 2nd). 0.009 to 0.019 in

Camshaft
Journal diameters
No. 1. 2.0365 to 2.0352 in
No. 2. 2.0165 to 2.0152 in
No. 3. 1.9965 to 1.9952 in
No. 4. 1.9765 to 1.9752 in
No. 5. 1.9565 to 1.9552 in
End clearance. 0.006 to 0.022 in

Valves
Valve face angle
Intake. 46 0
Exhaust . 60°
Valve seat angle
Intake. 45 °
Exhaust . 59°
Pushrod length. 7.718 in

Torque specifications Ft-lb

Intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. 40*
Carburetor-to-intake manifold bolts. 12
Cylinder head bolts. 125*
* Clean and dip entire bolt in new engine oil before installation and tightening to obtain correct torque reading
298 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Fuel and exhaust systems

Carburetor specifications — Rochester E2ME, E2MC and E2SE
Float level
Carburetor number. 5/16 in
17081191
17081196
17082182
17082184
17082192
17082194
17083190
17083192
17084193
17085190
17086190
Carburetor number. 11/32 in
17081192
17081194
17081197
17081198
17081199
17081496
17081497
17084430
17084431
17084434
17084435
Carburetor number. 9/32 in
17084356
17084357
17084358
17084359
17084633
17084635
17084536

Choke rod
Carburetor number. 18°
17081192
17081194
17081197
17081198
17081199
17081496
17081497
17082184
17082192
17082194
17083190
17083192
17084191
17085190
17086190
Carburetor number. 24.5°
17081191
17081196
Carburetor number. 22°
17084356
17084357
17084358
17084359
17084368
17084370
Carburetor number. 15°
17084430
17084431
17084434
17084435
Carburetor number. 28°
17084452
17084453
17084455
17084456
17084458
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 299

17084532
17084632
17084633
17084635
17084636

Vacuum break
Carburetor number. 28° (front) 24° (rear)
17081191
17081192
17081194
17081196
17081197
17081198
17081199
17081496
17081497
17082182
17082184
17082192
17082194
17083190
17083192
17085190
17086190
Carburetor number 17084191 28° (front) 25° (rear)
Carburetor number. 25° (front) 30° (rear)
17084356
17084357
17084358
17084359
17084368
17084370
Carburetor number. 26° (front) 38° (rear)
17084430
17084431
17084434
17084435
Carburetor number. 25° (front) 35° (rear)
17084452
17084453
17084455
17084456
17084458
17084532
17084632
17084633
17084635
17084636

Choke unloader
Carburetor number. 38°
17081191
17081192
17081194
17081196
17081197
17081198
17081199
17081496
17081497
Carburetor number. 32°
17082182
17082192
17082194
17083190
17083192
17085190
17086190
Carburetor number 17084191 35°
Carburetor number. 30°
17084356
17084357
17084358
17084359
300 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Carburetor number. 30° (continued)

17084368
17084370
Carburetor number. 42°
17084430
17084431
17084434
17084435
Carburetor number. 45°
17084452
17084453
17084455
17084456
17084458
17084532
17084632
17084633
17084635
17084636

Carburetor specifications — Rochester E4MC and E4ME

Float level
Carburetor number. 5/16 in
17081242
17084240
17084244
17084246
17084248
Carburetor number 1 7081 289 . 13/32 in
Carburetor number. 9/32 in
17082244
17082249
17082260
17082264
17082269
Carburetor number 1 7081 243 . 1/4 in
Carburetor number. 3/8 in
17082245
17082246
17082247
17082248
17082249
17082265
17082266
17082267
17082268
17082269
17082294
17082295
17082298
17082299
Carburetor number. 11/32 in
17086008
17086077
Choke rod
Carburetor number. 18°
17082247
17082248
17082267
17082268
17082298
17082299
Carburetor number. 24.5°
17081242
17081243
17081245
17081247
17081248
17081249
17081289
17082244
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 301

17082245
17082246
17082247
17082249
17082260
17082264
17082265
17082266
17082269
17082294
17082295
17084240
17084244
17084246
17084248
Carburetor number. 14°
17086008
17086077
Vacuum break
Carburetor number 1 7081 242 . 1 7 0 (front) 1 5 ° (rear)
Carburetor number 1 7081 243 . 19° (front) 17° (rear)
Carburetor number. 28 ° (front) 24 0 (rear)
17081245
17081247
17081248
17081249
17081289
Carburetor number. 21 0 (front) 16° (rear)
17082244
17082260
17082264
Carburetor number. 26 ° (front) 26 ° (rear)
17082245
17082246
17082247
17082248
17082266
17082267
17082268
17082294
17082295
17082298
17082299
Carburetor number. 20 0 (front) 1 5 0 (rear)
17082249
17082269
Carburetor number 1 7084246 . 22° (front) 24° (rear)
Carburetor number. 24° (front only)
17084240
17084244
17084248
Carburetor number. 25° (front) 43° (rear)
17086008
17086077
Choke unloader
Carburetor number. 38°
17081242
17081243
17081245
17081247
17081248
17081289
17082249
17082269
Carburetor number. 32°
17082246
17082247
17082248
17082260
17082264
17082265
17082266
17082267
302 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Carburetor number 32 0 (continued)

17082268
17082294
17082295
17082298
17084240
17084244
17084246
17084248
Carburetor number 35°
17086008
17086077

by the C4 system, described in Chapter 6, on later models, maintenance

3 Engine is confined to checking the connections and linkages for security and
damage.
General information
Later models are equipped with a 252 cu in (4.1 litre) V6 engine as Wastegate actuator assembly — removal and installation
an option. This engine is similar to the V6 engine used in earlier models
1 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the actuator and remove the clip
and service operations are the same. Refer to the beginning of this
retaining the actuator rod to the wastegate lever.
Chapter for specifications which differ from earlier engines.
2 Remove the two bolts attaching the mounting bracket compressor
Beginning in 1986, a Pontiac V8 was made available as an engine
housing and remove the wastegate actuator.
option. It displaces 307 cubic inches and can be identified by the VIN
3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
code Y. It is virtually identical to the 1977 Oldsmobile 350/403 CID
V8's covered in Chapter 2, Part A, so the service and repair procedures
for the Oldsmobile engines should be followed. The only exception is Turbocharger — removal and installation
camshaft removal and installation, which is outlined later in this Section. 4 Disconnect the air inlet tube from the throttle body and unplug the
Be sure to refer to the Specifications in this Supplement for the items throttle body vacuum harness connector.
that differ from the Oldsmobile engines. 5 Disconnect and plug the coolant and heater hoses at the throttle
body.
Camshaft — removal and 6 Remove the throttle body mounting nuts, carefully separate the
installation (307 Pontiac V8 engine only) throttle body from the engine and set it aside.
7 Disconnect the oil pressure feed line at the turbocharger and plug
Follow the procedure in Chapter 2, Part A, for the Oldsmobile engines,
but note that the camshaft on the Pontiac V8 is held in place by a thrust the openings.
8 Disconnect the exhaust inlet pipe from the exhaust manifold and
plate, which is attached to the block with two bolts. After the timing
chain and sprocket are removed, the thrust plate must be detached the turbocharger.
before the camshaft is removed. 9 Remove the exhaust outlet pipe from the turbocharger.
10 Remove the upper and lower right-side bracket-to-turbocharger
nuts.
11 Remove the stabilizer bracket bolt from the left side of the com¬
4 Turbocharger
pressor housing and separate the turbocharger from the manifold
adapter.
General information 12 Attach the turbocharger mounting and stabilizer brackets to the
The turbocharger on 1984 fuel-injected models differs from carbur¬ intake manifold.
etor-equipped models. Because the turbocharger operation is controlled 13 Install the turbocharger, throttle body and gasket and adapter and

r- -\

Fig. 13.1 Fuel injection equipped

engine turbocharger component
layout (Sec 4)

7 Turbocharger assembly
2 Stabilizer bracket
3 Nut
4 Bolt
5 Seal
6 Adapter
7 Seal
8 Nut
9 Intake manifold

J
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 303

seals on the manifold. Note: The threads of all turbocharger and exhaust the boost pressure checked. Because of the special tools and techniques
pipe-to-manifold bolts must be coated with anti-seize compound prior
necessary, the boost pressure check and adjustment should be left to
to installation.
your dealer service department.
14 Install the turbocharger and throttle body assembly on the mounting
bracket and adapter, tightening the bolts to the specified torque. Exhaust inlet pipe — removal and installation
15 Attach the inlet and outlet pipes to the turbocharger and exhaust 20 Remove the nuts retaining the pipe and adapter to the turbocharger.
manifold.
21 Remove the bolts and separate the pipe from the engine.
16 Connect the oil pressure feed line to the turbocharger. 22 Carefully clean all traces of gasket material and other foreign
17 Connect the coolant and heater line to the throttle body. material from the flanges and contact surfaces of the pipe and adapter.
18 Connect the throttle body vacuum harness and air inlet tube. 23 Coat the threads of the nuts and bolts with anti-seize compound
19 After installation, the TV cable must be adjusted (Section 7) and and install the pipe and adapter.

Fig. 13.2 Turbocharger connections (Sec 4)

7 Vacuum/pressure, PCV 5 Clamps 10 EGR valve

and purge hoses 6 Wastegate 11 PCV valve
2 Gasket 7 To fuel vapor canister 12 EGR valve vacuum control
3 Bolt 8 To water injection bottle 13 Solenoid wastegate valve
4 Throttle body assembly 9 Fuel regulator 14 Manifold vacuum pressure

Fig.13.3 Throttle body

components (Sec 4)

1 Throttle body
2 Gasket
3 Nut
4 Turbocharger

J
304 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Wastegate actuator — removal and installation and the throttle measures the mass of air passing through the manifold
24 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. and compensates for temperature and pressure variations. The air is
25 Remove the actuator rod-to-wastegate lever retaining clip. drawn into the cylinders, where the fuel is injected above the intake
26 Remove the bolts attaching the mounting bracket to the compressor valves.
housing and separate the wastegate actuator from the engine. While the engine is running, the fuel constantly circulates through
27 Place the wastegate actuator in position and install the mounting the fuel rail, which removes vapors and keeps the fuel cool while main¬
bolts. Tighten them to the specified torque. taining a constant pressure at the injectors of 36 psi.
28 Connect the actuator rod to the wastegate lever and install the The operation of the fuel injection system is controlled by the ECM
retaining clip. so that it works in conjunction with the rest of the vehicle functions
29 Connect the vacuum hose to the actuator. to provide improved driveability and emissions control.
Because the port-type fuel injection system meters fuel and air
Intercooler — general information precisely, it is important to the proper operation of the vehicle that the
Turbocharged vehicles manufactured after 1985 are equipped with an fuel and air filters be changed at the specified intervals.
intercooler. Its function is to reduce the temperature of the compressed
fuel/air mixture before it enters the throttle body. The result is increased Releasing fuel injection system pressure
horsepower output. The intercooler is located behind the radiator. 1 The fuel injection system must be depressurized before any work
Removal of the device is straight-forward and involves removal of the is done or fuel spray will be released when the line is disconnected.
shroud, loosening of the duct clamps and removal of the mounting 2 Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block located in the
bracket bolts. passenger compartment, then start the engine to use up the fuel re¬
maining in the lines.
3 Crank the engine over for approximately three more seconds to
make sure all fuel is exhausted, then turn the ignition Off.
4 Reinstall the fuel pump fuse in the fuse block.
5 Fuel and exhaust systems
Air and fuel filter replacement
General information 5 The fuel and air filters should be replaced every 25000 miles or
Later models continue to use the E2ME and E2MC 2-barrel and E4ME 25 months, whichever occurs first, or more often when driving in
and E4MC 4-barrel carburetors described in Chapter 4. dusty conditions.
In addition, an E2SE 2-barrel carburetor is used on some models. The 6 The fuel filter is located in the engine compartment on the lower
operation of this carburetor is controlled by the electronic control left side of the engine and the air filter element is in a housing at the
module (ECM) in conjunction with an oxygen sensor in the exhaust right front corner of the engine.
system. 7 Refer to the accompanying illustration for filter replacement.
1984 turbocharged models are equipped with port-type fuel injection.
Carburetor adjustments
Port-type fuel injection — general information Float level
This system consists of an air intake manifold, the throttle body, the 8 Hold the float retainer firmly in place, push the float down until
injectors, the fuel rail assembly, an electric fuel pump and attendant it lightly contacts the needle and measure the float level with the gauge.
plumbing. The gauging point is 3/16-inch back from the toe of the float as shown
Air is drawn through the air cleaner and throttle body and then into in the illustration.
the manifold. A mass air flow sensor mounted between the air cleaner 9 On carburetors used with the C4 sytem, the float should be ad-

THROTTLE BODY GASKET INTAKE MANIFOLD

TPS SENSOR

THROTTLE BODY

uj / /
\\ i (
p— 4

COOLANT HEAT'

Fig. 13.5 Fuel injection throttle body components (Sec 5)

Fig. 13.4 Fuel injection air system (Sec 5)

1 Throttle body assembly 4 Air intake duct

2 Rear air intake duct 5 Air cleaner assembly
3 Mass airflow sensor
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 305

justed if the height varies from that shown in the Specifications Sec¬ choke valve measuring gauge such as GM tool J-26701.
tion of this Chapter by plus-or-minus 1/16-inch.
14 Rotate the degree scale until it is opposite the pointer.
10 If the level is too high, hold the retainer in place and push down 15 Make sure the choke valve is closed and place a magnet on it as
on the center of the float pontoon until the specified setting is obtained. shown in the illustration.
11 If the level is too low on non-electronic solenoid equipped car¬ 16 Rotate the scale until the bubble is centered and then rotate it un¬
buretors, remove the power piston, metering rods, plastic filler block til the specified degree is opposite the pointer.
and the float. Bend the float arm up to adjust it. Reinstall the parts and 17 Place the cam follower on the second step of the cam and against
visually check the alignment of the float. the rise of the high step.
12 If the level is too low on electronic solenoid equipped carburetors, 18 Push up on the choke coil lever or the vacuum break lever to close
remove the metering rods and the solenoid connector screw. Count the choke and hold it in position with a rubber band.
and record for use at the time of reassembly the number of turns 19 Adjust by bending the tang on the fast idle cam until the bubble
necessary to lightly bottom the mixture screw. Back the screw out and is centered.
remove it, followed by the solenoid, connector and the float. Bend the Choke rod (1983 on)
float up to adjust it. Install the parts and reset the mixture screw to
20 Attach a rubber band to the green tang of the intermediate choke
the recorded number of turns.
shaft as shown in the illustration.
Choke rod (1981 and 1982)
21 Close the choke valve by opening the throttle.
13 With the choke coil lever and fast idle properly adjusted, install a 22 Install a choke angle gauge such as GM tool J-26701 and set the

Fig. 13.6 Fuel rail assembly components (Sec 6) Fig. 13.7 Port-type fuel injection fuel filter replacement
(Sec 5)
1 Fuel rail 5 Fuel pressure tap
2 Fuel inlet 6 Fuel injector 1 Fuel filter A Tighten to 22 ft-lb
3 Fuel return 7 O-ring 2 Fuel feed line B Use a backup wrench
4 Fuel pressure regulator 3 O-ring at this point
4 Fuel return line

©MAKE CHOKE COIL LEVER AND FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT (BENCH OR ON-THE-
GAUGE FROM TOP OF CASTING TO TOP
CAR SETTING).
OF FLOAT- GAUGING POINT 3/16 BACK
FROM END OF FLOAT AT TOE (SEE INSET) NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE RIVETS AND CHOKE COVER TO PERFORM THIS
ADJUSTMENT USE RUBBER BAND ON VACUUM BREAK LEVER TANG TO HOLD
CHOKE VALVE CLOSEO, (STEP 8).

SPECIFIED
ANGLE (SEE SPECS I

(D)T
TO ADJUST. BEND TANG
ON FAST IDLE CAM
RUBBER UNTIL BUBBLE IS
BAND CENTERED

FAST IDLE CAM

LIGHTLY CLOSE CHOKE

BY PUSHING UPWARD
ON CHOKE COIL
GAUGING POINT PLACE CAM FOLLOWER
LEVER OR VACUUM r
(3/16 BACK ON SECOND STEP OF
BREAK LEVER TANG V. 'REMOVE GAUGE
CAM AGAINST RISE OF
FROM TOE) (HOLD IN POSITION
HIGH STEP.
WITH RUBBER BAND).
'PUSH FLOAT DOWN LIGHTLY
AGAINST NEEDLE

Fig. 13.8 Float level adjustment (Sec 5) Fig. 13.9 Choke rod adjustment (1981 and 1982) (Sec 5)

J
306 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

angle to specification. 34 On 4-barrel carburetors, the air valve rod can sometimes restrict
23 Place the cam follower on the second step of the cam, against the the plunger from retracting completely and it might be necessary to
high step. If the follower does not contact the cam, turn the fast idle bend the rod slightly . The final rod clearance must be set after the
speed screw until it does, the final fast idle adjustment must be made vacuum break adjustment has been made.
according to the information on the Emissions Control Information label 35 With the vacuum applied, adjust the screw until the gauge bubble
under the hood. is centered.
24 Bend the fast idle cam tang until the bubble is centered. Rear vacuum break (1981 and 1982)
Front vacuum break (1981 and 1982) 36 With the choke coil lever and fast idle correctly adjusted, install
25 Install the J-26701 gauge and rotate the degree scale until the zero the J-26701 gauge tool and rotate the degree scale to zero.
is opposite the pointer. 37 Close the choke valve completely and place the magnet squarely
26 Place the magnet squarely on top of the choke valve and make sure on top of the valve.
the valve is closed completely. 38 Rotate the gauge until the bubble is centered and then rotate the
27 Rotate the gauge until the bubble is centered and then rotate it scale so the specified degree is opposite the pointer.
until the specified degree is opposite the pointer. 39 Apply vacuum to seat the vacuum diaphragm.
28 Seat the diaphragm using a vacuum source or pump. On vacuum 40 Hold the choke valve toward the closed position while pushing up
delay equipped models, remove the rubber cover over the filter element on the choke coil or vacuum break lever and retain it in position with
and plug the small bleed hole with a piece of tape. Remove the tape a rubber band.
after adjustment. 41 Adjust by using a 1/8-inch hex head wrench to turn the screw in
29 Hold the choke valve toward the closed position by pushing up on the rear cover until the gauge bubble is centered. Apply RTV-type sealant
the coil lever or the vacuum break lever tang. Secure it in place with over the screw head to maintain the setting.
a rubber band. Rear vacuum break (1983 on)
30 To adjust, remove the vacuum break from the carburetor, place the 42 Attach a rubber band to the green tang of the intermediate choke
bracket securely in a vise and grind or file off the weld retaining the shaft as shown in the illustration.
adjustment screw cover. Remove the cover, reinstall the vacuum break 43 Open the throttle until the choke valve closes.
and adjust it by turning the screw in or out until the gauge bubble is 44 Install the J-26701 angle gauge tool on the carburetor and set the
centered. angle to specification.
Front vacuum break (1983 on) 45 Plug any bleed holes and apply vacuum to the vacuum break
31 Attach a rubber band to the green tang of the intermediate choke plunger.
shaft and open the throttle to allow the choke valve to close. 46 On 4-barrel carburetors it may be necessary to bend the air valve
32 Install the GM J-26701 gauge tool and set the gauge to the rod slightly at the point indicated in the illustration to allow full travel
specified angle. of the plunger.
33 Apply at least 18 in Hg of vacuum to retract the vacuum break to 47 To center the gauge bubble, either of two methods can be used.
the specified adjustment. With the vacuum applied, use a 1/8-inch hex head wrench to turn the

SPECIFIED ANGLI
(SEE SPECS )

DEGREE
SCALE

POINTER ”J
MAGNET
TURN SCREW
TO ADJUST
UNTIL BUBBLE
LEAF BUCKING IS CENTERED
SPRING MUST BE
SEATED AGAINST
SEAT DIAPHRAGM
LEVER USING VACUUM SOURCE
(WHERE USED)
NOTE ON DELAY MODELS WITH AIR
BLEED. REMOVE RUBBER COVER OVER
FILTER ELEMENT AND PLUG SMALL
BLEED HOLE IN VACUUM TUBE WITH
PLIERS ON
TAPE. REMOVE TAPE AFTER ADJUST¬
TANG MENT.
LIGHTLY CLOSE CHOKE REMOVE VACUUM BREAK FROM CARBUR¬
BY PUSHING UPWARD ETOR PLACE BRACKET IN A VISE AND
ON CHOKE COIL LEVER OR VACUUM USING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS GRIND OFF
BREAK LEVER TANG (HOLD IN POSITION WELD HOLDING ADJUSTMENT SCREW
WITH RUBBER BAND). COVER REMOVE COVER AND REINSTALL
VACUUM BREAK

Fig. 13.11 1981 and 1982 front vacuum break adjustment

(Sec 5)

FAST IDLE
SPEED SCREW -

PUMP CUP
Fig. 13.10 Choke rod adjustment (1983 on) (Sec 5) OR VALVE
STEM SEAL

Rubber band on the Cam follower on the

intermediate choke second step, against
shaft green tang the high step
Angle gauge set to Adjust by bending the Fig. 13.12 Methods of plugging the vacuum delay air bleed
specification fast idle cam tang to holes (Sec 5)
center the bubble
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 307

adjustment screw (A in the illustration). Alternately, support the vacuum 49 Install the J-26701 gauge tool and set the angle to specification.
break rod at point S and bend the rod (B in the illustration) with the 50 On 4-barrel carburetors, hold the secondary lockout lever away from
vacuum applied. the pin as shown in the illustration.
Choke unloader 51 Hold the throttle lever in the wide open position and bend the fast
48 Attach a rubber band to the green tang of the intermediate choke idle lever tang until the gauge bubble is centered.
shaft as shown in the illustration and open the throttle to allow the Idle speed adjustment — preparation
choke valve to close.
52 Prior to idle speed adjustment the engine must be at normal

Fig. 13.14 Rear vacuum break adjustment (1981 and 1982)

(Sec 5)

Push up lightly to close

the choke
Apply vacuum
Adjust here and seal with
RTV-type sealant after
Fig. 13.13 1983 on front vacuum break adjustment adjustment
(Sec 5)

7 Adjustment screw
2 Adjustment gauge set
to specification

Fig. 13.16 Choke unloader adjustment (Sec 5)

7 Rubber band on 3 4-barrel carburetor

intermediate shaft secondary lockout
green tang lever and pin
2 Angle gauge set to 4 Adjustment is made by
specification bending the fast idle
lever tang
IDLE SPEED
CONTROL
ASSEMBLY

Fig. 13.15 Rear vacuum break adjustment (1983 on) DO NOT USE TO SET CURB IDLE SPEED ON
(Sec 5) COMPUTER COMMAND CONTROL
CARBURETORS EQUIPPED WITH IDLE SPEED
CONTROL (ISC). IDLE SPEEDS ARE COMPUTER
7 Rubber band attached A Adjustment using CONTROLLED

to the intermediate 7/8-inch hex wrench

choke shaft green B Adjustment by bending
tang the vacuum break
2 Angle gauge set to rod while supporting
specification it at point S
Fig. 13.17 Idle speed control used on C4 system equipped
3 Air valve rod carburetors (Sec 5)
308 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Fig. 13.18 Non-solenoid equipped curb idle speed adjustment

(Sec 5)

O
0 | SOLENOID ENERGIZED -
* A/C COMPRESSOR LEAD
DISCONNECTED AT A/C
COMPRESSOR. A/C ON,
A/TTRANSMISSION IN
DRIVE. M/T IN NEUTRAL

TURN SOLENOID SCREW TO

ADJUST TO SPECIFIED RPM
(RECONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR
LEAD AFTER ADJUSTMENT)

>OPEN THROTTLE SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW

SOLENOID PLUNGER TO FULLY EXTEND
1 TURN IDLE SPEED SCREW TO
SET CURB IDLE SPEED TO
SPECIFICATIONS - A/C OFF
(SEE EMISSION LABEL)

Fig. 13.19 Solenoid equipped curb idle speed adjustment

(Sec 5)

Fig. 13.20 Fast idle speed adjustment (Sec 5)

Fig. 13.21 Distributor component layout (Sec 6)

operating temperature and the ignition timing set to the specification control. Adjustment should be left to your dealer or a properly equip¬
on the Emissions Control Information label. Connect a tachometer to ped shop. Also, the ISC should never be unplugged while the ignition
is on or the ECM will be destroyed.
the engine.
53 Some models equipped with the C4 system use an idle speed con¬ Curb idle speed adjustment (non-solenoid equipped)
trol (ISC) assembly mounted on the carburetor and controlled by the 54 With the air conditioner Off, adjust the curb idle screw to the
ECM to control idle. Do not attempt to adjust the idle on the idle speed specifications on the Emissions Control Information label as shown in
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 309

Fig. 13.22 Testing the coil-in-cap coil (Sec 6)

1 With the ohmmeter 2 Connect the ohmmeter

connected, the as shown, using the
reading should be High scale Ithe co/I is
near zero faulty if both
readings are infinite!
the illustration.
Curb idle speed adjustment (solenoid equipped)
55 Adjust the curb idle as described in the previous Step.
56 With the air conditioner On, the compressor lead disconnected at
the compressor, the solenoid energized and the transmission in Neutral
(manual) or Drive (automatic), open the throttle slightly to completely
extend the solenoid plunger.
57 Adjust the curb idle to the specified rpm by turning the solenoid
screw.
58 Reconnect the air conditioner compressor after adjustment.
Fast idle speed adjustment (non-solenoid equipped)
59 With the transmission in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), hold
the cam follower on the step specified on the Emissions Control Infor¬
mation label as shown in the illustration and turn the fast idle screw
to obtain the specified rpm.
Fast idle speed adjustment (solenoid equipped)
60 With the transmission in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), hold
the cam follower on the step specified on the Emissions Control Infor¬ Fig. 13.24 Testing the separately mounted ignition coil
mation label. (Sec 6)
61 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the EGR valve and plug it.
62 To obtain the fast idle rpm specified on the label, turn the fast idle 7 On the High scale the very low or zero Iif it
screw as shown in the illustration. reading should be is high, the coil is
very high (infinite) or faulty!
there is a fault in the 3 On the High scale, the
coil reading should not be
6 Engine electrical systems 2 On the Low scale, the Infinite (if it is,
reading should be replace the coil)
General description — distributor
Most later distributors are not equipped with vacuum advance units 2 Test the ignition coil, referring to the appropriate accompanying
as advance is controlled by the electronic control module (ECM). illustration.
Some later distributors incorporate a Hall effect switch under the 3 To remove a distributor cap ignition coil, remove the coil cover
pickup coil. screws, then lift off the cover, followed by the coil mounting screws.
In addition to the distributor cap mounted ignition coil described in Separate the clip from the cap and remove the coil arc seal. Clean the
Chapter 5, some later models have a separately mounted coil. cap carefully with a soft cloth and inspect it for cracks and damage.
1984 turbocharged models with port-type fuel injection do not have 4 On Hall effect switch equipped distributors, test the switch by con¬
a conventional distributor and use a Computer Controlled Coil Ignition. necting a 12-volt power supply and voltmeter as shown in the illustra¬
This system uses a coil pack, ignition module and crankshaft and cam¬ tions. Check the polarity markings carefully before making any
shaft sensors to precisely control the spark. connections.
5 When the knife blade is not inserted as shown, the voltmeter should
Distributor — overhaul read less than 0.5 volts. If the reading is more, the Hall effect switch
1 Unplug the electrical connector(s), disengage the latches and is faulty and must be replaced with a new one.
remove the distributor cap. 6 With the knife blade inserted, the voltmeter should read within 0.5
310 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

OHMMETER OHMMETER
INSERT KNIFE BLADE
STRAIGHT DOWN AND
AGAINST MAGNET

Fig. 13.25 Testing the Hall effect switch (Sec 6)

Fig. 13.26 Testing the pickup coil (coil-in-cap distributor)

(Sec 6)

Fig. 13.27 Testing the pickup coil on a distributor with a

separately mounted ignition coil (Sec 6)

volts of battery voltage. Replace the switch with a new one if the reading
is more.
7 To test the pickup coil on all models, remove the rotor and pickup
leads and connect an ohmmeter as shown in the accompanying
illustrations. Fig. 13.28 Testing the pickup coil on a distributor with a Hall
8 If the distributor is equipped with a vacuum unit, connect a vacuum
effect switch (Sec 6)
source or pump.
9 Apply vacuum to the unit and observe the ohmmeter to make sure
the reading remains steady as vacuum is applied. Replace the vacuum pickup coil can then be lifted out after removing the C-washer. Remove
unit with a new one if it is inoperative or the ohmmeter reading changes. the two screws and lift the module, capacitor and harness assembly
Make sure that the application of vacuum does not cause the distributor from the distributor base. When installing, apply a coat of silicone lubri¬
teeth to align (which will cause a normal jump in the ohmmeter reading). cant under the module.
10 With the ohmmeter attached as shown in Step 1 in the illustra¬ 14 On distributors which use a separately mounted ignition coil,
tions, the reading should be infinite. With the ohmmeter attached as remove the C-washer and lift the pickup coil assembly out. Unplug the
shown in Step 2, the reading should be between 500 and 1500 ohms. harness, remove the screws and separate the module from the base.
Replace the coil with a new one if it fails either test. 15 Wipe the distributor base and module clean with a cloth and in¬
11 Place the distributor in a vise using blocks of wood to protect it. spect it for cracks and damage.
12 Mark the relative positions of the gear and shaft and drive the roll 16 Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly procedure. Be sure
pin out as shown in the illustration. Remove the gear and pull the shaft to apply a coat of silicone lubricant to the distributor base under the
from the distributor housing. module. After reassembly, spin the distributor shaft to make sure there
13 On distributors with the ignition coil mounted in the cap, remove is no contact by the pickup coil and/or the Hall effect pickup teeth.
the aluminum shield for access to the pickup coil and module. The Loosen and retighten as necessary to eliminate any contact.
 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 311

Fig. 13.30 Driving out the pin retaining the distributor gear to
the shaft (Sec 6)
Fig. 13.29 Testing the pickup coil on a Hall effect distributor
using a separately mounted ignition coil (Sec 6)

Fig. 13.32 Removal or installation of the module on a

distributor with a separately mounted ignition coil (Sec 6)

Fig. 13.31 Ignition coil-in-cap distributor component layout

(Sec 6)

7 Automatic transmission

Column shift linkage adjustment

1 Place the shift lever in the shift indicator Neutral position.
2 Position the transmission shift lever in the Neutral detent.
3 Referring to the accompanying illustration, install the clamp spring
and screw assembly on the equalizer lever and control rod.
4 Hold the clamp flush against the equalizer lever and tighten the
clamp screws finger tight. Make sure that no force is exerted in either
direction on the rod or the equalizer lever while the screw is being
tightened.
5 Tighten the screw to 21 ft-lb.
6 After adjustment the engine should start in the Park and Neutral
positions only.

Throttle valve (TV) cable — inspection and adjustment

7 The throttle valve (TV) cable used on some models is connected Fig. 13.33 Typical automatic transmission column shift
between the transmission throttle valve and the carburetor. The TV linkage (Sec 7)
312 Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

SLIDER AGAINST FITTING

Fig. 13.35 Throttle valve cable adjustment (Sec 7)

Fig. 13.34 Throttle valve (TV) cable and linkage component

layout (Sec 7)

Fig. 13.36 Instrument panel left and center trim panel

installation (Sec 8)

Fig. 13.37 Steering column trim panel installation (Sec 8)

cable controls the transmission line pressure, shift points, part throt¬
tle downshifts and detent downshifts. Symptoms of an improperly ad¬
justed TV cable are early or slipping shifts, failure to downshift and
delayed or sharp upshifts. Fig. 13.38 Instrument panel cluster removal or installation
8 Inspect the entire length of the cable for secure connections, stick¬ (Sec 8)
ing or binding and damaged or bent brackets.
9 With the engine off, depress the re-adjust tab and move the slider
back through the fitting, away from the throttle body, until it stops engine compartment (on models with two-piece cables) to gain the
against the fitting. Release the re-adjust tab. necessary slack.
10 Open the throttle to the full throttle stop position and then release 4 Remove the steering column trim cover, disconnect the shift in¬
it. This will automatically adjust the TV cable. dicator clip and lower the steering column.
11 Check the cable for sticking or binding and road test the vehicle 5 Pull the cluster forward sufficiently to provide clearance and discon¬
to check for proper operation. nect the speedometer cable, bulb wiring and digital cluster harness con¬
nector arid ground strap. With the transmission still in Low, remove the
screw retaining the vehicle speed sensor optic head to the speedometer.
6 Lift the housing from the instrument panel.
8 Chassis electrical system
7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Instrument duster housing — removal and installation Wiring diagrams

1 With the transmission in Low and the tilt wheel (if equipped) all 8 Note that wiring diagrams for later models have been included at
the way down, grasp the left hand trim cover firmly on both sides and the end of this Chapter. The wiring color code for earlier models, in¬
remove it by pulling straight out. cluded in Chapter 10, is also valid for later models. Due to space limita¬
2 Remove the four cluster cover-to-instrument panel screws. tions we are not able to provide every diagram for each model; however, I
3 Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission or in the a representative sampling is included.
V
FRONT LIGHTS GROUNDS (DUAL HEADLtGHTS)-Q102, G103

Fig. 13.39 Typical later model lighting ground locations

J
313
 314

REAR LIGHTS GROUND (4 DOOR)— G177

CC
ULi
X
h-
<N

CC
Q
cc

0
0)
O
o

0
O
D
o
iillllc >

Fig. 13.40 Typical later model lighting ground locations (continued)

V
r

Fig. 13.41 Typical later model instrument panel ground locations

J
315
V.
316

HOT AT ALL TIMES

Fig. 13.42 Typical later model headlight wiring diagram

J
A
 r

V.
RUN, BULB TEST OR START H HOT AT ALL TIMES
--
—

Fig. 13.43 Typical later model turn, stop, front park and marker light wiring diagram (except station wagon)

J
—-- 317
V.
318

HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START I HOT AT ALL TIMES

Fig. 13.44 Typical later model station wagon turn, stop, front park and marker light wiring diagram

J
A
 r

V.
HOT IN ACCY OR RUN

Fig. 13.45 Typical later model wiper/washer wiring diagram

319
 HOT AT ALL TIMES

Fig. 13.46 Typical later model horn wiring diagram

V.
Fig. 13.47 Typical later model instrument panel lights and clock wiring diagram

J
321
V*
322

HOT IN RUN B I

Fig. 13.48 Typical later model instrument panel indicator lights and choke heater wiring diagram

J
"N
v.
r

Fig. 13.49 Typical later model instrument panel gauge wiring diagram

j
323
V.
324

HOT AT ALL TIMES

Fig. 13.50 Typical later model interior lighting wiring diagram

J
 HOT IN RUN

I
1 BLK I 150

1 G130

Fig. 13.51 Typical later model heater wiring diagram

V*
326

TWILIGHT SENTINEL

Fig. 13.52 Typical later model 2-door rear lighting wiring diagram

J
 r

V.
HOT AT ALL TIMES

Fig. 13.53 Typical later model 4-door rear lighting wiring diagram

J
327
HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START
HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START

Fig. 13.54 Typical later model back-up light wiring diagram

V. J
V.
330

RUN, BULB TEST OR START

Fig. 13.56 1984 model port fuel injection C4 system wiring diagram

J
■\
v.
r

SEE POWER | ELECTRONIC CONTROL

DISTRIBUTION j MODULE (ECM)

Fig. 13.57 1984 model port fuel injection C4 system sensor wiring diagram

j
331
 Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in) X 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) X 0.0394 = Inches (in)
Feet (ft) X 0.305 = Metres (m) X 3.281 = Feet (ft)
Miles X 1.609 = Kilometres (km) X 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3) X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) X 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) X 0.568 = Litres (1) X 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.137 = Litres (1) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) X 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) X 0.946 = Litres (1) X 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 4.546 = Litres (1) X 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) X 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) X 3.785 = Litres (1) X 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz) X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) X 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (Ibf; lb) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) X 0.225 = Pounds-force (Ibf; lb)
Newtons (N) X 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) X 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square X 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) X 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 0.069 = Bars X 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopascals (kPa) X 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square X 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches X 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre X 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.1 13 = Newton metres (Nm) X 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 12 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; lb in) (Ibf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres X 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft) X 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) X 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres X 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)

Power
Horsepower (hp) X 745.7 = Watts (W) X 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) X 2.825 = Miles per gallon. Imperial (mpg)
Miles per gallon, US (mpg) X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I) X 2.352 = Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1. + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

•It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (UlOOkm),
where mpg (Imperial) x l/WO km = 282 and mpg (US) x l/WO km = 235
Index
A
general description — 285
Air conditioner grille removal and installation — 289
checks and maintenance — 1 22 hood adjustment — 289
general description — 122 hood latch and lock assemblies removal and installation — 292
Air filter and PCV filter replacement — 43, 304 hood removal and installation — 289
Alternator maintenance
maintenance and special precautions — 171 bodywork and underframe — 285
removal and installation — 171 upholstery and carpets — 285
testing — 171 vinyl roof covering — 285
Antifreeze and inhibiting solutions — 11 5 minor body damage repair — 285
Automatic transmission tailgate removal and installation — 295
column shift linkage trunk lid
checking and adjustment — 208, 311 adjustments — 292
extension housing oil seal replacement — 208 removal and installation — 292
floor shift linkage adjustment — 108 trunk lid lock assembly
general information — 207 removal, adjustment and installation — 293
identification — 207 trunk lid lock cylinder removal and installation — 293
specifications — 206 windshield and back window removal and installation — 295
throttle valve (TV) cable inspection and adjustment — 311 Bodywork repair sequence (color) — 286 and 287
Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission Braking system
adjustment — 212 brake pedal removal and installation — 237
removal and installation — 212 disc and drum inspection and servicing — 237
Turbo Hydra-Matic 200 TV cable replacement — 212 disc caliper overhaul — 233
Turbo Hydra-Matic 250-350 disc caliper (rear) removal — 233
downshift (detent) cable replacement — 208 disc pad inspection and replacement — 229
Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 drum brake lining inspection and replacement — 227
downshift (detent) switch adjustment — 208 general description — 227
Automotive chemicals and lubricants — 24 hydraulic brake hose inspection, removal and installation — 234
Axle see Driveline hydraulic system
bleeding — 237
pressure valves and switches — 236
B maintenance and inspection — 227
master cylinder removal, overhaul and installation — 234
Battery parking brake
charging — 1 66 adjustment — 238
maintenance — 1 66 pedal removal — 238
removal and installation — 166 power brake booster
Bodywork general description — 238
bodywork and frame major damage repairs — 289 removal and installation — 240
bumper removal and installation — 292 specifications — 226
door exterior handle removal and installation — 294 stop lamp switch replacement and adjustment — 238
door lock assembly removal and installation — 294 wheel cylinder (drum brake)
door lock cylinder removal and installation — 293 removal, overhaul and installation — 230
door removal and installation — 295 Bulb replacement
door trim panel removal and installation — 293 front end — 245
door window glass removal and installation — 294 instrument panel — 245
door window regulator removal and installation — 295 interior — 245
front fender and skirt removal and installation — 292 rear end — 245
 334
Index

C specifications — 213
universal joints
Camshaft dismantling and reassembly — 220
testing for wear — 218
removal and installation — 82, 100, 302
Driveshaft
Camshaft and bearings
out-of-balance correction — 218
inspection and servicing — 82
removal and installation — 218
Carburetor see Fuel and exhaust systems
Clutch see Driveline
adjustment — 214
removal, servicing and installation — 214
E
Connecting rod side clearance — 89, 101
Conversion factors — 332
Electrical system
Cooling system
bulb replacement
air conditioner
front end — 245
checks and maintenance — 122
instrument panel — 245
general description — 122
interior — 245
antifreeze and inhibiting solutions — 1 15
rear end — 245
automatic fan clutch — 115
cigar lighter assembly removal and installation — 245
coolant level — 11 5
circuit breakers — 244
fan clutch troubleshooting — 1 15
clock removal and installation — 248
general information — 115
cruisemaster description, adjustment
heater component removal and installation — 119
and component replacement — 250
radiator removal and installation — 116
electric grid-type rear defogger testing and repair - 252
specifications — 114
fuses — 242
thermostat
fusible links — 243
removal and installation — 115
gauge printed circuit board replacement — 248
testing — 11 6
general description — 242
water pump
headlamp adjustment — 245
removal and installation — 116
headlamp switch removal and installation — 245
testing — 11 6
headlight sealed beam unit removal and installation — 244
water temperature sender
horn troubleshooting — 244
troubleshooting and replacement — 119
instrument panel removal and installation — 248, 312
Crankshaft and bearings
modified pulse wiper/washer system — 249
inspection and servicing — 86, 101
power door lock system — 252
Cylinder heads
power radio antenna removal and installation — 250
assembly — 74
radio removal and installation — 252
cleaning — 73
seatbelt warning system — 250
dismantling — 72
specifications — 241
inspection — 73
speedometer cable replacement — 245
installation — 74, 97
speedometer removal and installation — 248
removal — 71, 96
turn signal hazard flashers — 244
washer assembly removal, servicing and installation — 249
washer/wiper switch removal and installation — 248
windshield wiper arm removal and installation — 248
D windshield wiper motor/transmission servicing — 249
windshield wiper system general description — 248
Distributor wiper motor removal and installation — 248
installation — 168 wiring diagrams - 253 to 262, 313 to 331
removal and overhaul — 167, 309 Emissions systems
removal and installation — 170 air injection reactor (AIR) — 181
Driveline catalytic converter — 189
axleshaft computer command control (C4) — 189
removal and installation (except B and O type axles) — 222 exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) — 188
removal, overhaul and installation (B and O types) — 223 forced air pre-heat system — 184
axleshaft bearing fuel evaporation system — 186
replacement (except B and O type axles) — 223 general information — 178
axleshaft oil seal positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) — 178
replacement (except B and O type axles) — 223 specifications — 178
clutch
transmission controlled vacuum spark advance (TCS) — 183
adjustment — 214 troubleshooting emissions systems — 191
removal, servicing and installation — 214 Engine electrical system
clutch cross-shaft removal and installation — 214 alternator
clutch pedal removal and installation — 214 maintenance and special precautions — 171
driveshaft removal and installation — 171
out-of-balance correction — 218 testing — 171
removal and installation — 218 battery
general description charging — 166
clutch — 214 maintenance — 166
driveshaft — 218 removal and installation — 166
rear axle — 220 charging system general description — 171
neutral start switch removal and installation — 218 condenser (capacitor)
pinion oil seal (all axles) replacement — 224 testing, removal and installation (1974) — 166
positraction (limited slip) type axles distributor
description, testing and precautions — 225 breakerless-type — 170
rear axle assembly removal and installation — 225 cap replacement (1974) — 167
 Index 335

general description (1981 on) — 309 automatic transmission flex plate

installation (1974) — 167 balancing procedures — 102
overhaul (1981 on) — 309 removal, inspection and installation — 100
removal and overhaul (1974) — 167 camshaft removal and installation — 100
removal and installation (1975 thru 1980) — 170 connecting rod side clearance — 101
general description, ignition system — 165 crankshaft and bearing inspection and servicing — 101
ignition coil removal and installation — 170 crankshaft front oil seal replacement — 100
spark plugs — 171 crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals
specifications — 163 installation — 101
starter motor removal — 100
dismantling and component testing — 176 cylinder block inspection — 100
reassembly and adjustment — 176 cylinder heads
removal and installation — 175 installation — 97
testing in vehicle — 175 removal — 96
starter motor solenoid removal, repair and installation — 177 dismantling, general — 95
starting system general description — 175 engine mount inspection and replacement — 94
Engine (V8) exhaust manifold removal and installation — 95
assembly, general information — 89 final assembling and pre-oiling — 101
camshaft and bearing inspection and servicing — 82 general information — 93
camshaft removal and installation — 82, 302 harmonic balancer balancing procedure — 102
connecting rod side clearance — 89 identification — 93
crankcase front cover removal and installation — 80 installation
crankshaft and bearing inspection and servicing — 86 with transmission (manual) — 94
crankshaft, main bearings and oil seals without transmission (automatic) — 94
installation — 89 intake manifold removal and installation — 95
removal — 84 main bearing and rod bearing clearance checking — 101
cylinder block inspection — 85 major overhaul dismantling sequence — 95
cylinder heads manual transmission flywheel removal and installation — 100
assembly — 74 oil pan removal and installation — 98
cleaning — 73 oil pump
dismantling — 72 installation — 98
inspection — 73 removal, dismantling and inspection — 98
installation — 74 oil pump pipe and screen assembly
removal — 71 removal and installation — 99
dismantling, general — 67 piston and connecting rod assembly
engine mount replacement with engine in vehicle — 67 cleaning and inspection — 101
engine/transmission separation and reconnection — 67 piston and piston ring reassembly — 101
exhaust manifolds — 70 pistons, connecting rods and bearings
final assembling and pre-oiling after overhaul — 90 installation — 101
flywheel removal and installation — 84 removal — 100
general description and engine identification — 64, 302 rear main bearing oil seal replacement — 102
installation rear main bearing upper oil seal repair — 101
with transmission — 67 rebuilding alternatives — 100
without transmission — 67 removal — 93
intake manifold removal and installation — 68 removal and installation methods and precautions — 93
main bearing and rod bearing clearance checking — 89 repair operations general — 93
major overhaul dismantling sequence — 68 rocker arm assembly removal and installation — 96
oil pan removal and installation — 76 specifications — 91, 296
oil pump start-up after major repair or overhaul — 101
removal, inspection and installation (except Buick timing chain and sprocket removal and installation — 99
engines) — 77 timing chain cover removal and installation — 99
removal, inspection and installation (1974 thru 1977 Buick torsional damper removal and installation — 99
engines) — 77 valve lash adjustment — 97
oil seal (front cover) replacement — 78 valve and guide removal, service and installation — 96
piston and connecting rod assembly valve lifter removal, inspection and installation — 97
cleaning and inspection — 86 Engine — Turbocharger
piston and piston ring reassembly — 86 detonation sensor removal and installation — 104
pistons, connecting rods and bearings disassembly and inspection — 113
installation — 90 ERG valve manifold removal and installation — 112
removal — 82 elbow assembly removal and installation — 113
rear main oil seal replacement (engine in car) — 84 electronic spark control — 104
rebuilding alternatives — 85 exhaust inlet pipe removal and installation — 303
removal general description — 103, 302
with transmission — 66 intercooler — 304
without transmission — 65 plenum replacement — 112
removal and installation methods and precautions — 64 power enrichment control valve (PECV)
repair operations — 64 4-bbl carburetor engines (1978) — 104
specifications — 58, 297 power enrichment vacuum regulator (PEVR)
start-up after major repair and overhaul — 90 (1979 and 1980) testing — 112
timing chain and sprocket removal and installation — 80 precautions — 104
torsional damper removal and installation — 78 removal and installation — 112, 302
valve lash adjustment — 76 specifications — 103, 297
valve lifter removal, inspection and installation — 74 Turbocharger vacuum bleed valve (TVBV)
valve and valve seat inspection and valve grinding — 73 2-bbl carburetor engines (1978) — 104
Engine (V6) wastegate actuator assembly
assembly, general information — 101 removal and installation — 104, 304
336
Index

wastegate actuator boost pressure — 104 fuel tank

wastegate actuator removal and installation — 304 removal and installation — 136
Exhaust system see Fuel and exhaust systems repairs and storage — 138
general description — 136, 162, 304
port-type fuel injection — 304
F specifications — 123, 298 to 302

Fuel and exhaust systems

air cleaner servicing — 136 G
carburetor (Rochester 2GC — 2GE)
accelerator pump rod adjustment — 141 General dimensions — 14
automatic choke coil adjustment — 146
choke coil lever adjustment — 146
choke unloader adjustment — 146 J
fast idle cam adjustment — 146
idle adjustment — 146 Jacking and towing — 23
overhaul — 146
vacuum break adjustment — 146
carburetor (Rochester 2GV) M
accelerator pump adjustment — 146
choke coil rod adjustment — 141 Maintenance techniques — 18
choke rod adjustment — 141 Manual transmission
choke unloader adjustment — 141 general description — 192
choke vacuum break adjustment — 141 floorshift transmission backdrive linkage adjustment — 194
idle adjustment — 139 3- speed (Saginaw) transmission overhaul — 196
overhaul — 141 4- speed (Saginaw) transmission overhaul — 203
carburetor (Rochester 4MV) mount checking — 194
air valve dashpot adjustment — 153 oil seal replacement — 195
choke coil rod adjustment — 152 removal and installation — 196
choke rod adjustment — 152 shift control assembly removal and installation — 194
choke vacuum break adjustment — 152 shift linkage adjustment — 194
idle adjustment — 152 specifications — 192
overhaul — 153 transmission side cover overhaul
carburetor (Rochester M4M Series) 3- speed Saginaw — 195
accelerator pump rod adjustment — 154 4- speed Saginaw — 195
air valve dashpot adjustment — 156
air valve spring wind-up adjustment — 160
choke coil lever adjustment — 154
fast idle adjustment — 154
o
fast idle cam (choke rod) — 156
Oil pump
front vacuum break adjustment — 158
installation — 98
overhaul — 160
removal, dismantling and inspection — 98
rear vacuum break adjustment, 350 — 158
removal, inspection and installation — 77
secondary closing adjustment — 159
secondary opening adjustment — 159
secondary throttle valve lock-out adjustment — 159
unloader adjustment — 159
P
carburetor (Rochester M4MC and M4MCA)
Piston and connecting rod assemblies
automatic choke coil adjustment — 159
carburetor (Rochester M4ME) cleaning and inspection — 86, 101
Pistons and piston rings
automatic choke coil adjustment — 159
assembly and reassembly — 86, 101
carubretor (Rochester M4MC/M4MCA/M4ME)
idle adjustment — 153 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings
installation — 90, 101
carburetor (M2M Series)
removal — 82, 101
fast idle adjustment — 150
idle adjustment — 148
overhaul — 150
carburetor (E2M — E4M Series) R
fast idle adjustment — 151
idle speed adjustment — 150 Recommended lubricants — 25
overhaul — 151 Routine maintenance see Tune-up
carburetor (1981 on)
choke rod adjustment — 305
choke unloader adjustment — 307 s
float level adjustment — 304
front vacuum break adjustment — 306 Safety first — 33
idle speed adjustment — 307 Spare parts — 16
rear vacuum break adjustment — 306 Spark plug chart (color) — 169
carburetors Starter motor
description — 139 dismantling and component testing — 176
removal and installation — 139 reassembly and adjustment — 176
exhaust system general description — 136 removal and installation — 175
fuel filter replacement — 137, 304 testing in vehicle — 175
fuel pump Supplement: Revisions and information on later models — 296
description and testing — 137 Suspension
removal and installation — 137 front coil spring removal and installation — 268
 Index 337

front suspension balljoint Tune-up and routine maintenance

removal, inspection and installation — 270 air filter and PCV filter replacement — 43
front wheel alignment and steering angles — 284 automatic transmission fluid change — 51
front wheel bearing brakes check — 52
lubrication, replacement and adjustment — 267 carburetor choke check — 48
general description — 267 carburetor mounting torque — 54
ignition key warning switch removal and installation — 278 chassis lubrication — 40
ignition lock cylinder removal and installation — 277 clutch pedal free travel check — 44
ignition switch removal and installation — 279 cooling system check — 41
lower suspension control arm cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) — 54
removal, servicing and installation — 271 EFE system (heat riser) check — 46
maintenance and inspection (balljoints) — 267 engine drivebelt check and adjustment — 42
manual steering gear engine idle speed adjustment — 45
maintenance and adjustment (steering gear in car) — 273 Evaporative Control System (ECS) filter replacement — 57
removal and installation — 276 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve check — 48
pitman shaft seal (manual steering) exhaust system check — 41
replacement (steering gear in car) — 276 fluid levels check — 36
pot joint coupling disassembly and reassembly — 276 fuel filter replacement — 46
power steering fuel system check — 43
general description — 283 ignition timing adjustment — 48
maintenance and adjustment — 283 introduction — 35
power steering gear removal and installation — 283 oil and filter change — 38
power steering hydraulic system bleeding — 284 point replacement, dwell angle adjustment and distributor check
power steering pump removal and installation — 284 (1974 models only) — 56
rear spring removal, servicing and installation — 271 positive crankcase ventilation valve replacement — 43
rear suspension control arm rear axle fluid change — 48
removal, servicing and installation — 272 spark plug replacement — 49
shock absorber removal, inspection and installation — 267 spark plug wire check — 54
specifications — 263 specifications — 34
stabilizer bar removal and installation — 268 suspension and steering check — 42
steering column removal and installation — 279 thermo-controlled air cleaner check — 45
steering column (standard version) tire and tire pressure check — 38
disassembly and reassembly — 279 tire rotation — 45
steering column (tilt version) wheel bearing check and repack — 49
disassembly and reassembly — 280 Turbocharger see Engine — Turbocharger
steering column couplings removal and installation — 276
steering gear and linkage inspection — 272
steering knuckle removal and installation — 271 u
steering linkage and balljoints removal and installation — 272
steering wheel removal and installation — 273 Universal joints
turn signal switch removal and installation — 277 dismantling and reassembly — 220
upper suspension control arm testing for wear — 218
removal, servicing and installation — 271
wheels and tires — 284 V
Vehicle identification numbers — 16

T w
Thermostat Water pump
removal and installation — 115 removal and installation — 116
testing — 116 testing — 116
Tools and working facilities — 18 Wheels and tires — 284
Troubleshooting — 26 Wiring diagrams — 253 to 262, 313 to 331
.

■
 HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE MANUALS
NOTE: New manuals are added to this list on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing for your vehicle,
consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

206 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe & 2 + 2 HONDA 6000 - see GENERAL MOTORS
'70 thru '78 138 360, 600 & Z Coupe all models A-Cars (829)
563 280ZX Coupe & 2 + 2 '79 thru '83 '67 thru '75 *1232 Fiero all models '84 thru '87
300ZX - see NISSAN (1137) 351 Accord CVCC all models '76 thru '83 555 Firebird all V8 models except Turbo
679 310 all models '78 thru '82 *1221 Accord all models '84 thru '85 '70 thru '81
123 510 & PL521 Pick-up '68 thru '73 160 Civic 1200 all models '73 thru '79 *867 Firebird all models '82 thru '87
ALFA ROMEO
430 510 all models '78 thru '81 633 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC all models 551 Phoenix & Oldsmobile Omega all X-car
531 Alfa Romeo Sedan & Coupe '73 thru '80
372 610 all models '72 thru '76 '80 thru '83 models '80 thru '84
AMC 277 620 Series Pick-up all models 297 Civic 1500 CVCC all models
Jeep CJ - see JEEP (412) '73 thru '79 '75 thru '79
694 Mid-size models. Concord, Hornet, 235 710 all models '73 thru '77 *264 911 all Coupe & Targa models except
Civic all models except 16-valve CRX &
Gremlin & Spirit '70 thru '83 *771 720 Series Pick-up all models Turbo '65 thru '85
4 WD Wagon '84 thru '86
*934 (Renault) Alliance & Encore all models (including 4WD) '80 thru '85 239 914 all 4 cyl models '69 thru '76
*601 Prelude CVCC all models '79 thru '82
'83 thru '85 *376 810/Maxima all gasoline models 397 924 all models including Turbo
JAGUAR '76 thru '82
'77 thru '84
AUDI 098 MK 1 & II. 240 & 340 Sedans *1027 944 all models including Turbo
124 1200 all models '70 thru '73
162 100 all models '69 thru '77 '55 thru '69 '83 thru '86
368 F10 all models '76 thru '79
615 4000 all models '80 thru '87 *242 XJ6 all 6 cyl models '68 thru '86
Pulsar - see NISSAN (876) RENAULT
428 5000 all models '77 thru '83 *478 XJ12 & XJS all 12 cyl models
Sentra - see NISSAN (982) 141 5 Le Car all models '76 thru '83
*1117 5000 all models '84 thru '86 '72 thru '85
Stanza - see NISSAN (981) 079 8 & 10 all models with 58.4 cu in
207 Fox all models '73 thru '79 140 XK-E 3.8 & 4,2 all 6 cyl models
engines '62 thru '72
DODGE '61 thru '72
AUSTIN 097 12 Saloon & Estate all models
049 *723 Aries & Plymouth Reliant all models
Healey 100/6 & 3000 Roadster JEEP 1289 cc engines '70 thru '80
'81 thru '86
'56 thru '68 412 CJ all models '49 thru '86 768 15 & 17 all models '73 thru '79
*1231 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans
Healey Sprite — see MG Midget 081 16 all models 89.7 cu in & 95.5 cu in
all models '84 thru '86 LADA
Roadster (265) engines '65 thru '72
699 Challenger & Plymouth Sapporo all *413 1200, 1300. 1500 & 1600 all models
598 18i & Sport wagon all models
BLMC models '78 thru '83 including Riva '74 thru '86
'81 thru '86
260 1100, 1300 & Austin America 236 Colt all models '71 thru '77
LANCIA Alliance & Encore — see AMC (934)
'62 thru '74 419 Colt (rear-wheel drive) all models
533 Lancia Beta Sedan, Coupe & HPE all 984 Fuego all models '82 thru '85
527 Mini all models '59 thru '69 '77 thru '80
models '76 thru '80
*646 Mini all models '69 thru '87 610 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front-wheel ROVER
drive) all models '78 thru '87 LAND ROVER 085 3500 & 3500S Sedan 215 cu in engines
BMW
*556 D50 & Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups 314 Series II, IIA, & III all 4 cyl gasoline ’68 thru '76
276 320i all 4 cyl models '75 thru '83
'79 thru '86 models '58 thru '86 *365 3500 SDI V8 all models '76 thru '84
*632 528i & 530i all models '75 thru '80
234 Dart & Plymouth Valiant all 6 cyl models 529 Diesel all models '58 thru '80
240 1500 thru 2002 all models except Turbo SAAB
'67 thru '76
'59 thru '77 MAZDA 198 95 & 96 V4 all models '66 thru '75
*1140 Daytona & Chrysler Laser all models
348 2500, 2800, 3.0 & Bavaria all models 648 626 Sedan & Coupe (rear-wheel drive) 247 99 all models including Turbo
'84 thru '86
'69 thru '76 all models '79 thru '82 '69 thru '80
*545 Omni & Plymouth Horizon all models
BUICK *1082 626 (front-wheel drive) all gas models *980 900 all models including Turbo
'78 thru '84
'83 thru '87 '79 thru '85
Century front-wheel drive — see *912 Pick-ups all full-size models
GENERAL MOTORS A-Cars (829) *267 B1600, B1800 & B2000 Pick-ups
'74 thru '86 SUBARU
*627 Mid-size all rear-drive Regal & Century '72 thru '84
*349 Vans — Dodge & Plymouth V8 & 6 cyl 237 1100, 1300, 1400 & 1600 all models
models with V6, V8 and Turbo 370 GLC Hatchback (rear-wheel drive) all
models '71 thru '86 '71 thru '79
'74 thru '87 models '77 thru '83
FIAT *681 1600 & 1800 2WD & 4WD all models
Sky hawk - see GENERAL MOTORS 757 GLC (front-wheel drive) all models '80 thru '86
080 124 Sedan & Wagon all ohv & dohc '81 thru '85
J-Cars (766)
models '66 thru '75 109 RX2 all models '71 thru '75 TOYOTA
552 Skylark all X-car models '80 thru '85
094 124 Sport Coupe & Spider '68 thru '78 096 RX3 all models '72 thru '76 150 Carina Sedan all models '71 thru '74
CADILLAC 087 128 all models '72 thru '79 460 RX-7 all models '79 thru '85 229 Celica ST, GT & liftback all models
Cimarron — see GENERAL MOTORS 310 131 & Brava all models '75 thru '81 '71 thru '78
J-Cars (766) 038 850 Sedan, Coupe & Spider MERCEDES-BENZ
437 Celica all models '78 thru '81
'64 thru '74 346 230, 250 & 280 Sedan, Coupe & *935 Celica all models except front-wheel
CAPRI Roadster all 6 cyl sohc models
479 Strada all models '79 thru '82 drive and Supra '82 thru '85
296 2000 MK I Coupe all models '68 thru '72
*273 X1/9 all models '74 thru '80 680 Celica Supra all models '79 thru '81
'71 thru '75 983 280 123 Series all gasoline models 1139 Celica Supra all models '82 thru '86
283 2300 MK II Coupe all models FORD '77 thru '81 201 Corolla 1100, 1200 & 1600 all models
'74 thru '78 788 Bronco and Pick-ups '73 thru '79 698 350 & 450 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all '67 thru '74
205 2600 & 2800 V6 Coupe all models *880 Bronco and Pick-ups '80 thru '86 models '71 thru '80 361 Corolla all models '75 thru '79
'71 thru '75 295 Cortina MK III 1600 & 2000 ohc 697 Diesel 123 Series 200D, 220D, 240D, *961 Corolla all models (rear wheel drive)
375 2800 Mk II V6 Coupe all models '70 thru '76 240TD, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, '80 thru '82
'75 thru '78 268 Courier Pick-up all models '72 thru '82 4- & 5-cyl incl. Turbo '76 thru '85 *1025 Corolla all models (front wheel drive) 1984
Mercury in-line engines — see FORD *789 Escort & Mercury Lynx all models
MERCURY *636 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thru '82
Mustang (654) '81 thru '87
See FORD listing 230 Corona & MK II all 4 cyl sohc models
Mercury V6 and V8 engines - see 560 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr all in-line
'69 thru '74
FORD Mustang (558) & V8 models '78 thru '83 MG 360 Corona all models '74 thru '82
334 Fiesta all models '77 thru '80 475 MGA all models '56 thru '62
CHEVROLET *532 Cressida all models '78 thru '82
359 Granada & Mercury Monarch all in-line, 111 MGB Roadster & GT Coupe all models
554 Camaro V8 all models '70 thru '81 313 Land Cruiser all models '68 thru '82
6 cyl & V8 models '75 thru '80 '62 thru '80
*866 Camaro all models '82 thru '87 200 MK II all 6 cyl models '72 thru '76
*754 Ford & Mercury Full-size, FORD: LTD 265 MG Midget & Austin Healey Sprite
Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS *1339 MR2 all models '85 thru '87
(’75 thru '82); Custom 500; Country Roadster '58 thru '80
J-Cars (766) 304 Pick-up all models '69 thru '78
Squire; Crown Victoria
Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS MITSUBISHI *656 Pick-up all models '79 thru '85
MERCURY: Marquis ('75 thru '82); Gran
A-Cars (829) Pick-up - see Dodge D-50 (556) 787 Starlet all models '81 thru ’84
Marquis; Colony Park, all V8 models
*625 Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino TRIUMPH
'75 thru '84 MORRIS
all V6 & V8 models '69 thru '86 112 GT6 & Vitesse all models '62 thru '74
773 Ford & Mercury Mid size, FORD: Torino; 074 (Austin) Marina 1.8 all models
449 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 all models 113 Spitfire all models '62 thru '81
Gran Torino; Elite; Ranchero; LTD II; '71 thru '75
'76 thru '87 028 TR2, 3, 3A, 4 & 4A Roadsters
LTD ('83 thru '84); Thunderbird 024 Minor 1000 sedan & wagon '56 thru '71
550 Citation all models '80 thru '85 '52 thru '67
('75 thru '82), MERCURY: Montego;
274 Corvette all V8 models '68 thru '82 NISSAN
Comet; Marquis ('83 thru '86); Cougar 031 TR250 & TR6 Roadsters '67 thru '76
*1336 Corvette all models '84 thru '87 *1137 300ZX all models '84 thru '86 322 TR7 all models '75 thru '81
('75 thru '82); LINCOLN: Versailles, all
*704 Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, *876 Pulsar all models '83 thru '86
4 cyl, in-line 6 cyl, V6 & V8 models VW
Biscayne, Bel Air & Wagons, *982 Sentra all models '82 thru '86
'75 thru '80 091 411 & 412 all 103 cu in models
all V6 & V8 models '69 thru '86 *981 Stanza all models '82 thru '86
*654 Mustang & Mercury Capri all in-line '68 thru '73
319 Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD models
models & Turbo '79 thru '87 OLDSMOBILE 036 Bug 1200 all models '54 thru '66
'72 thru '82
*558 Mustang & Mercury Capri all V6 & V8 *658 Cutlass all standard gasoline V6 & V8 039 Bug 1300 & 1500 '65 thru '70
*626 Monte Carlo all V6. V8 & Turbo models
models '79 thru '87 models '74 thru '87 159 Bug 1600 all basic, sport & super
'70 thru '86
*1418 Tempo & Mercury Topaz all gasoline Cutlass Ciera — see GENERAL MOTORS (curved windshield) models '70 thru '74
241 Nova all V8 models '69 thru '79
models '84 thru '87 A-Cars (829) 110 Bug 1600 Super all models (flat,
420 Pick-ups - Chevrolet & GMC, all V8
357 Mustang V8 all models '65 thru '73 Firenza — see GENERAL MOTORS windshield) '70 thru '72
& in-line 6 cyl 2WD & 4WD models
231 Mustang II all 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models J-Cars (766) 238 Dasher all gasoline models '74 thru '81
• '67 thru '87
'74 thru '78 Omega — see PONTIAC Phoenix *884 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Pick-up all
*831 S-10 & GMC S-15 Pick-ups all models
204 Pinto all models '70 thru '74 & Omega (551) gasoline models '74 thru '84
'82 thru '87
649 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat all models & Convertible '80 thru '85
•345 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 OPEL
'75 thru '80 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up all diesel models
& in-line 6 cyl models '68 thru '85 157 (Buick) Manta Coupe 1900 all models
*1026 Ranger & Bronco II all gasoline models '77 thru '84
208 Vega all models except Cosworth '70 thru '74
'83 thru '86 Transporter 1600 all models
'70 thru '77
*344 Vans all V8 Econoline models PEUGEOT '68 thru '79
CHRYSLER '69 thru '86 161 504 all gasoline models '68 thru '79 Transporter 1700. 1800 & 2000 all
*1337 Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size front 663 504 all diesel models '74 thru '83 models '72 thru '79
GENERAL MOTORS
wheel drive '82 thru '86 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models
•829 A-Cars Chevrolet Celebrity, Buick PLYMOUTH
K-Cars - see DODGE Aries/Plymouth Century, Pontiac 6000 & Oldsmobile '63 thru ‘73
425 Arrow all models '76 thru '80
Reliant (723) Vanagon all air-cooled models
Cutlass Ciera all models '82 thru 87 For other Plymouth models see
Laser - see DODGE Daytona & *766 J-Cars Chevrolet Cavalier, Pontiac '80 thru '83
DODGE listing
Chrysler Laser (1140)
J 2000, Oldsmobile Firenza, Buick
PONTIAC 120, 130 Series & 1800 Sports
DATSUN Skyhawk & Cadillac Cimarron all models
T1000 - see CHEVROLET '61 thru '73
402 200SX all models '77 thru '79 '82 thru '87
Chevette (449) 140 Series all models '66 thru '74
•647 200SX all models '80 thru '83 GMC
Vans & Pick-ups see CHEVROLET J-2000 - see GENERAL MOTORS 164 all models '68 thru '75
228 B-210 all models "73 thru '78
(420. 831. 345) J-Cars (766) 240 Series all models '74 thru '86
525 210 all models '79 thru '82
260 Series all models ’75 thru '82

Over 100 Haynes ^bcde

Listings shown with an asterisk (') indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically
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updated to Include later model years — consult your Haynes dealer for more information. also available PQRST

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Models covered by this manual
Regal: Regal, Regal Sport Coupe, Regal Limited
Century: Century, Century Custom, Century Special, Century Wagon, Century Limited, Century Sport
Coupe

196. 231, 252 (including Turbo), 256, 301, 305, 307, 350. 403 and 455 cu in engines

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