Cosmetics Formulation

Skin Cleansing
 Outline
• Skin care products
– Skin cleansing
– Skin moisturisers

• Hair care products

– Conditioners
– Neutralisers

• Oral care products

 Skin Structure and Functions
• Stratum corneum (SC), is very thick layer made up of dead cells that
continuously shed and are replaced by cells in the adjacent layer, contains
15–30 layers of dead cells.

• Stratum lucidum, the translucent or clear layer, contains 3–5 rows of

densely packed flat dead cells.

• Stratum granulosum, the granular layer, consists of 3–5 layers of flattened

keratinocytes that begin to die.

• Stratum spinosum, the prickle cell layer, contains 8–10 rows of cells. This
layer is responsible for lipid and protein synthesis.

• Stratum basale (or stratum germinativum), the basal cell layer, is made up
of a single layer of cells. Cells divide continuously to form new
keratinocytes. Melanocytes, Langerhans cells, and Merkel cells are also
found in this layer.
 Introduction
• Skin cleansers: facial cleansers, bath and shower
products, and hand cleansing products

• Skin cleansing serves as a foundation for healthy

skin with an intact barrier function, and it also
contributes to the skin’s aesthetic appearance.

• Function is to remove dirt and oil from the skin,

dead skin cells, some moisturize the skin

• Skin cleansing prepares the skin for the

application of moisturizing, protective, and
nourishing product

• Characteristics of an ideal skin cleanser vary

according to the needs of the consumers
 Categories of Skin cleansing Products
• Foaming cleansers contain a significant
amount of well-foaming surfactants, e.g. most
body washes, hand soaps, and facial cleansing

• Low-foaming products contain a lower level of

well-foaming surfactants and are milder to the
skin
– For the face, a different sensation and
greater mildness are required
– Primarily contain nonionic surfactants,
often combined with amphoteric and
polymeric types
– Low-foaming products are typically
marketed for the face
Categories of Skin Cleansing Products
• Non-foaming cleansers are the
mildest due to their low well-
foaming surfactant or soap content

• Non-foaming cleansers can be

solvent-based, such as facial toners
and hand sanitizers, and emulsion-
based

• Emulsion-based non-foaming
products contain the highest level
of oils compared to the other two
groups
 Skin cleansing Products
• Skin cleansing products contain surfactants that are capable of
emulsifying water-insoluble ingredients into micelles, which can be
easily washed away from the skin.

• Cleansers do cause changes in the skin’s structure and barrier

function, leading to various signs and symptoms

• Ideally, cleansers should not damage the skin’s complex structure

and lead to irritation, dryness, redness, and itching

• Ingredients causing safety concerns regarding skin cleansing

products include parabens, triclosan, sodium lauryl sulfate, and
microbeads
 Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics and OTC
Drug–Cosmetic Products
and Their Functions
• Abrasives: ingredients capable of polishing or
cleaning a harder surface by rubbing or grinding.

– used in toothpastes and skin care products, such as

face, hand, foot, and body scrubs

– Toothpastes: hydrated alumina, dehydrated silica,

magnesium and calcium carbonate, dicalcium
phosphate, and sodium bicarbonate
 Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics

• Antioxidants, provide protection against oxidative reactions.

• Prevent undesirable chemical changes, decomposition, rancidity,

color change, and odor formation, within a formulation (esp.
containing oils, fats, butters, and waxes) triggered by oxygen in
the presence of light, heat, or metal ions
– E.g. butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, propyl gallate

• They fight against free radicals in the skin. Skin antioxidants

include: vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and vitamin E
(tocopherol) and natural extracts, isoflavones and polyphenols
 Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics
• Chelating agents are molecules able to
complex with metal ions.

• Metal ions, if not deactivated, can

deteriorate cosmetic products by
reducing clarity, compromising fragrance
integrity, and causing rancidity

• Examples: tetrasodium EDTA; phosphoric

and phosphonic acid derivatives

• Color additives add color to cosmetic

products making them attractive,
appealing, appetizing, and informative
 Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics
• Dye: a chemical compound that is soluble in the particular solvent
in which it is dispersed (e.g., oil or water), e.g. indigo and Green 3.

• Pigment: component that is insoluble in the particular solvent in

which it is dispersed. An example is black iron oxide.

• A lake is a water-insoluble pigment formed by chemically reacting

dyes with a substratum, for example, aluminum, calcium, or barium.
– These pigments are widely used in lipsticks and nail lacquers. An
example is Yellow 5 Al Lake
 Cosmetic Ingredients
• Flavoring Agents: sensory impression of food used in products that come into
contact with the taste buds e.g. lipstick, dental and oral care products, such as
toothpaste

• Examples: peppermint, wintergreen, menthol, eucalyptol, strawberry, and banana,

• Fragrances: natural or synthetic compounds with a characteristic smell that are

added to cosmetics
– Make products more acceptable to the user and also mask the unpleasant odor of other
ingredients in the formulation

• Moisturizers: ingredients that add moisture to the skin and help retain moisture in
the skin, make the skin feel softer and smoother and reduce roughness, cracking,
and irritation
 Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics
• Humectants are hygroscopic ingredients:
• Skin hydration by drawing water from the deeper layers of the
epidermis and dermis to the outer layer of the skin, e.g. glycerin,
sorbitol, urea, and propylene glycol

• Inhibit water evaporation from cosmetic products, i.e. provide

protection against drying out, e.g. sorbitol and glycerin

• Emollients: replenish oils and lipids in the skin, soften and smooth
and replace lost lipids in the Stratum Corneum.
 Mosturisers
• Examples: vegetable oils; seed and nut oils; fruit butters; lanolin;
synthetic esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids, such as isopropyl
palmitate and glyceryl stearate; polymers, such as polyquaterniums;
hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and paraffin; siloxanes, such as
dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane

• Occlusives are hydrophobic and form a water-repellent layer over the

skin - block, or at least retards, water loss through the skin

• Examples: hydrocarbon oils and waxes, such as petrolatum, mineral oil,

paraffin, carnauba, and candelilla wax; silicone oils, such as
dimethicone; vegetable oils and animal fats; fatty acids, such as stearic
acid; fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol
 Cosmetic Ingredients
• Enhancers of the skin barrier (skin rejuvenators): help restore,
protect, and enhance the skin’s barrier function

• Also create a film over the skin surface that aesthetically smoothens
the skin and stretches out fine lines e.g. collagen, keratin, and
elastin

• pH Buffers: e.g. citric acid and lactic acid as acidic ingredients as

well as NaOH and the commonly used triethanolamine as alkaline
ingredients
Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics
• Plasticizers are ingredients that can soften films and impart
flexibility,

• Often, the developing nail polish film or hair spray film makes nail
polish sensitive to chipping and cracking or hair spray film stiff and
brittle

• Examples: camphor, castor oil, glyceryl tribenzoate, triphenyl

phosphate, citrate esters, and acetyl tributyl citrate

• In film-forming ingredient-based hair styling products, mainly

mineral oil, dimethicone, and castor oil are used
Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics
• Preservatives are used to prevent undesirable growth of molds,
yeast, and bacteria in liquid, semisolid, and powder products

• DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, and glutaraldehyde; cationic

surfactants (benzalkonium chloride and benzethonium chloride),
ethanol and benzyl alcohol; phenoxyethanol; isothiazolones, such
as methylchloroisothiazolinone, sorbic acid
 Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics
• Surfactants: Emulsification (they help two immiscible phases, e.g.,
water and oil, mix with each other to form an emulsion),
solubilization, cleansing, foaming, foam boosting, wetting,
antifoaming, conditioning, preserving, stabilizing, controlling
viscosity

• Briefly describe the hydrophile–lipophile balance (HLB) classification

system for surfactants

• Thickeners are ingredients that can increase the viscosity of

cosmetics, improve stability, improve applicability, modify rheology,
appearance and product aesthetics,
 Thickeners & Solvents
• Water-based thickeners: xanthan and guar gum; cellulose and its
derivatives (hydroxyethyl cellulose); hydrophilic clays (hectorites,
bentonites), and magnesium aluminum silicates; polyethylene
glycols (PEG 200); and synthetic polymers (carbomers) and also
sodium chloride

• Non-water-based systems: waxes (carnauba wax); long-chain

alcohols (cetyl alcohol); organoclays; fumed silica; synthetic
polymers; and polyethylenes,
 Active Ingredients
• Anti-Acne Ingredients
• Benzoyl peroxide (in 2.5–10%), salicylic acid (in 0.5–2%), sulfur (in 3–
10%), and resorcinol (in 2% when combined with sulfur).

• Anticaries Ingredients
• Sodium monofluorophosphate, sodium fluoride, and stannous
fluoride

• Antidandruff Ingredients
• coal tar (in 0.5–5%), zinc pyrithione (in 0.3–2% when washed off),
salicylic acid (in 1.8–3%), selenium sulfide (in 1%), and sulfur (in 2–
5%).
 Active Ingredients
• Antiperspirants
• Include aluminum chloride (up to 25%), aluminum chlorohydrate (up to
25%), aluminum sesquichlorohydrate (up to 25%), aluminum
dichlorohydrate (up to 25%), and PEG and zirconium complexes, such as
aluminum chlorohydrex PEG (up to 25%) and aluminum zirconium
octachlorohydrate (up to 20%).

• Skin Protectant Ingredients

– Astringents: aluminum acetate (in 0.13–0.5%), aluminum sulfate
– Lip protectants: allantoin (in 0.5–2%), cocoa butter (in 50–100%), dimethicone (in
1–30%), and petrolatum (in 30–100%),
– Skin protectants: titanium dioxide (up to 25%) and zinc oxide (up to 25%), as well as
chemical filters, such as avobenzone (up to 3%), octocrylene (up to 10%), and
padimate O (up to 8%).
 Types of Cleansers
• Products removing and/or killing bacteria that may cause infections,
such as antibacterial hand soaps and hand sanitizers and facial
washes proven to fight against bacteria causing acne, are
considered drugs in the US.

• Facial cleansers are designed to clean the facial skin, remove dirt
and makeup, provide exfoliation
 Facial Cleansers
• Facial skin and its cleansing has always been a big concern for both
men and women

• Most women in the US wash their face twice a day

• Main ingredients in cleansing products are soaps and/or surfactants

and solvents

• Surfactants act as cleansing agents and emulsifiers

 Facial Cleansers
Ingredients
• Anionic surfactants have good lathering and detergent properties, which
are necessary to remove dirt

• Cationic surfactants have a positive charge which makes them attracted to

the skin.

• Employed as conditioning agents, e.g. amines, alkylimidazolines,

alkoxylated amines, and quaternary ammonium

• Amphoteric surfactants are well tolerated and lather well, used in facial
cleansers as secondary surfactants to help boost foam improve
conditioning, and reduce irritation

• Betaines (cocamidopropyl betaine; imidazolinium derivatives) and amine

oxides (cocamidopropylamine oxide; and alkylamino acids)
 Facial Cleansers
Ingredients
• Nonionic surfactants are very mild

• Used as emulsifiers, conditioning agents, and solubilizers in facial

cleansers

• They do not lather particularly well. However, they form a perfect

combination with anionics.

• Examples: fatty alcohols; poloxamers; alkylene oxides;

polyglucosides, such as lauryl glucoside; amides, such as cocamide
diethanolamine (DEA),
 Facial Cleansers
• Solvents act as cleansing agents as well as provide a vehicle, e.g. water,
ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or mineral oil as a non-polar solvent

• Thickeners are structuring agents, primarily used for gels, lotions, and
creams e.g. cellulose derivatives, gums, acrylates, and other types of
polymers, as well as waxes for the oil phase

• Skin conditioning agents (moisturizers) counteract the SC-disruptive

properties of soaps and surfactants, glycerin, olive oil, almond oil,
mineral oil, silicone oils, waxes, panthenol, and allantoin

• pH Buffers: triethanolamine may be needed to thicken the

formulation,
– potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and ammonium hydroxide
– citric acid and lactic acid (natural pH of skin is acidic)
 Facial Cleansers
Ingredients
• Abrasives: Facial scrubs contain specific exfoliating components that are responsible
for physical cleaning

– Peach, apple or apricot seeds; walnut or almond nut shells, oats or wheat grains

– Polyethylene or polypropylene beads, aluminum oxide and sodium tetraborate decahydrate

particles can be used

• Antibacterial agents: beneficial for controlling certain skin conditions, such as

acne; superficial skin infections (folliculitis)

• Absorbents: used in facial masks to absorb sebum from the skin, e.g. ZnO,
TiO2, kaolin, calamine, clay, and natural mud

• Astringents: major ingredients in facial toners, tighten pores and refresh the
skin, e.g. alcohol and witch hazel
Ingredients %Weight
MONAMATE LA-1 00 40
PEG- 8 20
PEG-75 30
MONAMID S 10

Procedure:
Add all ingredients and mix while heating gradually, being careful not to scorch,
until melted and uniform. (approx. 95 °C). Pour into mold while hot. Allow to set.

Properties:
Appearance: Pale cream colored solid
pH (10% sol'n): 6.8
This formulation is easily prepared and forms a hard bar. Copious lather with a soap-
like feel and a talc-like afterfeel.
 CONDITIONING FACIAL CLEANSER
Ingredients %Weight
Water 43.7
50% Citric Acid 0.3
Sodium Laureth Sulfate ( 1 Mole 25%) 35.0
MONAMATE LNT-40 (Ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate) 5.0
PHOSPHOTERIC QL-38 (Trisodium lauroampho PG 8.0
acetate phosphate chloride)
MONATERIC CAB-LC (Cocoamidopropyl betaine) 8.0

Procedure:
Blend ingredients in order listed, readjusting pH if necessary to 5.5-6.0. Add
fragrance, color and preservative as required. Package.

Formulation Properties:
Physical Appearance: Clear Liquid
Viscosity: 6,600 cps
 Bath & Shower Products
• Bath and shower products are designed to remove dirt, perspiration, and
dead cells from the body skin as well as

• Enhance the bathing experience, soften and moisten the skin, provide a
relaxing experience, and leave the skin feeling clean and fresh.

• Product types may vary from bar soaps, bath salts, bath bombs, and bath
oils to bubble bath products and shower gels, shower creams

• Ingredients used in bubble bath products, shower gels, and creams are
generally the same.

• Surfactants: Alkyl ethoxylated sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate; alkyl

sulfates, such as SLS and triethanolamine lauryl sulfate; isothionates, such
as sodium cocoyl isethionate; as well as sulfosuccinates and sarcosinates.
 Bath & Shower Products
Ingredients
• Surfactants: Principal foaming agents used in bubble baths are anionic
surfactants
• Thickeners: provide the appropriate rheological properties and help in foam
stability
• Foam stabilizers: have poor foaming properties but improve the stability of foam
generated by anionic surfactants, e.g. nonionic surfactants like cocamide DEA
• Water: main vehicle for the formulations
• Skin conditioning agents: are moisturizers, deposited on the skin surface,
especially beneficial for consumers with dry skin; e.g. petrolatum, olive oil,
almond oil, mineral oil, shea butter, silicone oils, waxes, vitamins, panthenol, and
allantoin, certain nonionic surfactants
• Abrasives:
• Preservatives: parabens, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, and benzoates
• Additional ingredients: colorants; fragrances, pearls, chelating agents, herbal
extracts, vitamins and minerals
 Bath & Shower Products
• Clear Shower Gel Clear Shower Gel
• Procedure: Raw Material % Weight
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30% 35.0
• Mix all ingredients, heat to
Cocoamphocarboxypropionate, 15.0
60 °C until clear. 40%
• Adjust pH to 6.2 with citric Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, 30% 10.0
(Hamposyl L-30)
acid.
Cocoamide MEA 3.0
Water, perfume, preservative 100
• Properties: High lathering
gel even on oily skin.
 Foam Bath
Raw Materials %Weight
Sodium Laureth sulfate + 2EO 80.0
Cocoamidopropyldimethyl-betaine 6.0
Perfume Oil 3.0
Demineralized Water 8.0
*Preservative. 0.5
Sodium chloride 1.4
Sodium hydroxide (10% aq. solution) 0.1
Cremogen Rosemary forte 758 302 0.5
Cremogen Camomile forte 728 790 0.5
*Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and)
Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

Manufacturing Process:
Mix all the ingredients well under stirring. With the addition of sodium hydroxide the pH-
value can be adjusted to approx. 7. Remark: Without any colour dye: The yellow-brownish
colouring of the foam bath depends on the native colouring of the plant extracts.
 Foam Bath
Raw Materials %Weight
Water 32.45
LAMEPON S (Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen) 45.0
Lauramide DEA 8.0
CETIOL HE (Polyoxyethylene Glyceryl Monococoate) 5.0
Glycol Distearate (and) Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocamide-MEA 3.0
(and) Laureth-10
SEDAPLANT RICHTER (polyvalent herbal extract plus anti-irritants) 3.0
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 3.0
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5
5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one&2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one 0.05

Manufacturing Process:
Charge kettle with water. Add remaining ingredients, one at a time, under agitation. Adjust pH
to 6.5+-0.3 with 50% citric acid. Continue stirring until product is homogeneous. Fill off.

By combining LAMEPON S with ether sulfates and then betaine, a high performance, low
irritation product results. The addition of SEDAPLANT RICHTER furthers the formula's image
with its blend of herbal extracts and anti-irritants. Cetiol HE is a lipid layer enhancer and
emolient. Cocamidopropyl Betaine offers mildness, very good foam and viscosity synergism
 Bubble Bath
Raw Materials %Weight %Weight
Polyquart-24 1.0 1.0
Water 46 46
Phase B
Sodium Myreth sulfate (58%) 38 38
Lauramide DEA 7.0 7.0
Glucam E-20 (Humectant) 3.5 3.5
Solulan L-575 (refatting agent) 4.0 4.0
Perfume qs qs
Preservative qs qs
*Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and)
Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

Manufacturing Process:
Disperse the Polyquart-24 with good agitation in water at room temperature. When
thoroughly dispersed, heat to 45 °C with continued mixing. When a clear, uniform solution has
developed, begin to add the ingredients of phase B in the order in which they are listed,
mixing moderately after each addition. Avoid air entrapment.
 Bubble Bath
• Crystal clear, viscous, pourable bubble bath.

• Polyquart 24 (polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose

reacted with a lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted salt) provides
conditioning by virtue of its cationic nature and inherent substantivity to the
skin.

• GLUCAM E-20 (humectant) contributes to the overall emollient afterfeel.

• SOLULAN L-575, along with GLUCAM E-20, helps overcome defatting from
the anionic surfactant

• Lauramide DEA: increase foaming capacity and/or stabilize foam, also

thickens formulations
 Kids’ Bubble Bath
Ingredients %Weight
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 10
Disodium Cocamido MIPA Sulfosuccinate 10
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (30%) 9.0
Natrosol 250HHR (Hydroxyethylcellulose) 1.0
Preservative Qs
Water, Fragrance, Dye qs to 100

Procedure:
1. Disperse Natrosol 250HHR in cold water.
2. Blend until completely dispersed.
3. Heat to 40 °C. and add remaining components.
4. Blend until clear.
5. Cool and fill.
 Bubble Bath Gel
Ingredients %Weight
Texapon N 25 (SodiumLaurylEther Sulfate) 50
Perfume qs
Water 40
Preservatives qs
Luviquat FC 550 (Polyquaternium 16) 4.0
Comperlan KD (Cocamide DEA) 1.0
Sodium chloride 5.0

Procedure:
Preparation: Weigh out in the order given and stir to dissolve.
Properties: Clear gel. Leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.
Applications: Add approx. 30 ml to bath water.
 Shower Gel
Ingredients %Weight
EMPICOL ESB3 or Sodium lauryl ethoxy sulfate 35
EMPICOL ESB50 or 20
EMPICOL ESB70 15
EMPILAN CDE (Coconut diethanolamide) 5
Dye and perfume qs
Formalin 0.1
Citric acid qs to pH 6.5-7.0
Water qs to 100

Procedure:
 Cream Bath
Ingredients %Weight
MIGLYOL 812 (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 34
SOFTIGEN 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/capric glycerides) 20
Mineral Oil 25
Hostaphat KL 340N (Trilaureth-4 phosphate) 16
Perfume 5

Procedure:
All the materials are brought together, heated to 40C. And stirred until homogeneous
 Cream Bath
Ingredients %Weight
Arlatone T (PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate) 4.5
Tween 85 (Polysorbate 85) 18.0
SOFTIGEN 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/capric glycerides) 21.5
MIGLYOL 812 (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 27.0
Mineral Oil 26.0
Perfume 3.0

Procedure:
All the materials are brought together, heated to 40 °C and stirred until homogeneous
 Effects on skin
• Skin cleansers solubilize lipids that are found on the skin surface to
provide protection and may extract skin components like the natural
moisturising factor (NMF)

• Surfactants contribute to the barrier-damaging side effects of skin due

to disruption of the SC lipid order.

• Increase in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to dehydration

of the skin

• Surfactant penetration can cause irritation and inflammation 12 and

alter barrier renewing processes

• Order of irritation potential of surfactants is: anionic surfactants >

amphoteric surfactants > nonionic surfactants
 Effect on Skin
• Ways to decrease the damaging effects of surfactants include
increasing the size of the head/polar group of the surfactant and
using a combination of anionic surfactants with amphoteric or
nonionic surfactants

• Soap-based cleansers (alkaline pH) have a higher potential to

irritate skin than cleansers with synthetic surfactants (neutral)

• Other challenges include irritation, itching, inflammatory responses,

and allergies due to product ingredients, like antibacterial actives,
preservatives, and perfumes
 Hand Cleansing Products
• Hand cleansing products are designed to clean the hands and
products include bar soaps and syndet bars as well as liquid soaps.

• Enhanced with additional moisturizing ingredients.

• Hand sanitizers are used specifically to remove microorganisms

from the hands with the intent of preventing infections and
reducing the spread of infectious diseases

• They include alcohol-based and non-alcohol-based hand sanitizers

in the form of bar soaps, gels, lotions, creams, and cleaning wipes.
 Hand Cleansing Products
• Antibacterial agents, such as ethanol, isopropanol, chlorhexidine,
are effective in preventing diseases

• However, there is concern over the long-term safety of some

ingredients esp. increased the resistance to antibiotics

• Frequent handwashing may lead to long-term changes in the skin,

such as chronic damage, irritant contact dermatitis and eczema, and
concomitant changes in skin flora
 Hand Cleansing Products
• Products containing alcohol are potentially flammable, need extra
care

• Challenges with alcohol-based hand sanitizers is that they may be

accidentally (or intentionally) consumed

• Alcohol also removes dirt and oils from the skin, which may dry out
the skin
 Bar Soap
• Bar soap made with natural surfactants was used as a skin cleanser.

• Soap bars differ in the types of surfactants used, lather provided,

rate of lathering, color, smell, and skin compatibility.

• Effective in removing grime and is relatively inexpensive;

• Washing solution formed by soap is extremely alkaline (pH 9.5–

11.0) and can cause irritation, dryness, and scaling
 Bar Soap
• Superfatted soaps contain more oil than required to a
stoichiometric reaction.
– The excess oil may serve as a moisturizer and an emollient and
improves the mildness of the product.

• Transparent soaps have a higher concentration of glycerin, which is

a skin moisturizer.
– pH is alkaline, they are still considered milder due to the
presence of glycerin.
 Bar Soaps
Syndet Bars
• Contain synthetic emulsifiers instead of natural soaps.

• Syndet bars have a better skin compatibility profile than traditional soaps

• Cleaning effect is very good, and the residue left on the skin is minimal

• Synthetic detergent bars are based on an anionic surfactant, acyl

isethionate

• Body washes rich in humectants tend to be less beneficial than the

lipophilic-rich products. Why?
 HEAVY DUTY LIQUID HANDSOAP
Ingredients %Weight
Dodecylbenzene Sulfonic Acid 21.5
Caustic Soda (50%) 5.4
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (60%) 4.0
Cocamidopropyl betaine 5.5
Propylene Glycol 8.0
Water, Dye, Fragrance Qs to 100

1. Add caustic soda to water and adjust pH to 7.0-8.0 with

2. Add remaining components and adjust pH to 6.5-7.0 with citric
3. If necessary, lower viscosity with Propylene Glycol, or raise
4. Latex opacifier may be added if needed.

Solids, %: 30+/-1.O
pH: 6.5-7.0
 Detergent free LIQUID HANDSOAP
Ingredients %Weight
Potassium coconut soap 50.0
Lauramide DEA 10.0
Sodium Chloride 2.00
Tetrasodium EDTA (40%) 1.00
DMDM hydantoin Qs
Deionized Water Qs to 100

Procedure:
1. Add potassium coconut soap, lauramide DEA, and EDTA to 90 percent of the
WATER.
2. Blend until clear.
3. Dissolve Sodium Chloride in remaining water and slowly add to BATCH.
4. Add DMDM hydantoin and blend until clear.
5. If needed, sodium chloride can be increased to increase viscosity.
Germicidal LIQUID HANDCLEANSER
ANTIL 141 Liquid 3.5
Cocamidopropyl betaine 20.0
TEGO Betaine S 20.0
Dimethicone copolylol 0.30
Water 55.7
Chlorhexidine 0.50
Sodium Chloride As needed
Fragrance q.s.

1. Add the water and coamidopropyl betaine to a vessel-heat to 60 °C. Mix.

2. Add the ANTIL 141 liquid (thickener). Mix until uniform.
3 . Cool to 40 °C. Add the remaining ingredients. Adjust viscosity with Sodium
Chloride

If a pearled or opaque product is desired, add 3-4% of TEGO Pearl B-48.

 LIQUID HANDCLEANSER
Ingredients %Weight
Water and Preservative 29.3
Ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate 20.8
Lauroamphocarboxyglycinate 25.0
Sodium lauryl sulfate 17.9
Lauramide DEA 5.00
Ethylene Glycol Monostearate 2.00
q.s.

Add ingredients in order listed above and heat slowly to 70C with stirring until
completely melted. Cool to 40C and adjust pH. At pH 6.8 viscosity is approximately
3000 cps.

This pearled formulation combines the high foaming properties of MONATERIC 951A
with the extra mild skin-softening effect of the MONAMATE. The MONAMID 1089 and
EGMS build viscosity and add a soapy feel to the lather
 LIQUID HANDCLEANSER
Ingredient %Weight %Weight
Cocamidopropyl betaine 15.0
Sodium lauryl sulfate 30.0
Cocamide DEA 2.00 1.4
Propylene Glycol 1.00
Water 52.0 70.0
Sodium laureth sulfate 17.8
(3EO)
Cocamidopropyl 10.8
hydroxysultaine

Procedure:
Mix all ingredients together and adjust pH to 7.5 with citric acid.
Solids: 17.3%, Viscosity: 17,500 cps
 LIQUID HANDCLEANSER
Ingredients %Weight
Disodium lauryl 83.0
sulfosuccinate
Palmkernelamide MEA 4.00
Choroxylenol 0.50
Polyquaternium 7 0.80
DMDM Hydantoin q.s.
Water, Fragrance qs to 100

Procedure:
1. Add palm kernel amide and Choroxylenol to Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate
2. Blend until homogenous.
3. Dissolve Polyquaternium 7 in water and add to product.
4. Blend until completely homogenous.
5. Cool to 50 degrees C. with mild agitation.
6. Add DMDM Hydantoin and fragrance and cool with continous agitation and heat to
70 °C.