Pattern Making and Garment

Construction
Assignment 2

Submitted By:
Ankita Kumari (BFT/18/244)
Shagun Sinha (BFT/18/172)
Definition of Shirt
• A shirt is a piece of clothing that you wear on the upper part of your
body. Shirts have a collar, sleeves, and buttons down the front.
• In British English, a shirt is more specifically a garment with a collar,
sleeves with cuffs, and a full vertical opening with buttons or snaps. A
shirt can also be worn with a necktie under the shirt collar.
 History of Shirt
• Shirts were worn as early as the 18th dynasty of ancient Egypt (c. 1539–
1292 BCE); they were made of a rectangular piece of linen, folded and
sewn up the sides, with openings left for the arms and a hole cut at the
fold for the head.
• During the 14th century, shirts worn by the Normans developed a
neckband and cuffs.
• By the end of the 15th century, shirts were made in a variety of fabrics,
such as wool, linen, and sometimes silk, for royalty.
• Shirts began to be embellished with embroidery, lace, and frills in the
16th century, and men’s outer garments—the doublet, or jacket—had a
low neckline so that the shirt showed across the chest.
• High neckcloths were abandoned for collars and ties more or less the
same as those worn in the 20th and 21st centuries.
• Men’s shirts in the 1960s were made in a variety of stripes, patterns, and
colors previously not worn.
• In the 20th century, women’s shirts were made on lines similar to men’s,
though they usually included darts in the back and in the front to make
them more form-fitting.
Evolution of Shirt

• In the early days the shirt had neither collar nor cuffs, but a hem that
could be tightened and buttoned. And you always put it on by pulling
it over your head.
• In the Middle Ages one could choose between fixed or detachable
collar
• At the end of the World War 1 the shirt went through a major
transformation. The modern shirt with buttons all along the front
became popular, even if the first buttoned shirt was registered by
Brown, Davies & Co as early as 1871.
• In the 1930’s the shirt with the fixed collar revived.
• Twenty years later the nylon shirt was introduced and during the
same period of time the more daring short sleeve shirt became high
fashion.
• In the 1960’s the chest pocket was introduced as a consequence of
the vest under the suit jacket becoming more and more uncommon.
 Types of Shirts
Poet Shirt

• Camp shirt – a loose, straight-cut, short sleeved shirt or

blouse with a simple placket front-opening and a "camp
collar".
• Dress shirt – shirt with a formal (somewhat stiff) collar,
T-Shirt
a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the
hem (usually buttoned), and sleeves with cuffs
• Poet shirt – a loose-fitting shirt or blouse with full
bishop sleeves, usually with large frills on the front and
on the cuffs.
• T-shirt – also "tee shirt", a casual shirt without a collar
or buttons, made of a stretchy, finely knit fabric, usually
cotton, and usually short-sleeved.
• Polo shirt (also tennis shirt or golf shirt) – a pullover
soft collar short-sleeved shirt with an abbreviated
Camp Shirt button placket at the neck and a longer back than front

Dress Shirt
 Different
Components
of Shirt
Collar
• The part around the neck either upright or turned over is
called collar. The collar is the top parts of the shirt part. It
is the most important parts of a basic Shirt. Collar parts
basically 2 part need to sewing first. After sewing need to
Turnover and Poke out and Press.
• In below have the second part of the collar. This part
Name is Collar Band. The Below Collar Band Need to
attach with collar top part. After attaching Make fulfill the
Shirt Collar.
• There are different types of collars design are available in
the market like a one-piece collar, Two pieces collar,
Sports Open Collar, Multi pieces collar.
Centre Front and
Placket
• In the front side of a shirt has two separate
parts, one is left the side and the other is the
right side.
• The middle point of the left and right side is
named as Center Front. Different types of
Center Front design is also different. Basic
Formal shirt front middle point Name is Placket.
• The term placket often refers to the double
layers of fabric, and often have interfacing in
between the fabric layers, that hold the buttons
and buttonholes in a shirt.
• Plackets can also be found at the neckline of a
shirt, the cuff of a sleeve
Back
• As per style back part has so many
Different constrictions. Like Back dart,
Back Pleat, Back Yoke Etc.
• If Back have yoke then Back should be 2
part, 1st one is yoke part and 2nd one is
Body Part.
• Back part should be joining By Over-lock
machine then turn over and Topstitch by
DN Machine or SN Machine.
Shoulder and
Shoulder Yoke
• The shoulder is the main part of a shirt.
Accurate Shoulder fitting is looking nice on
your body.
• If shoulder Measurement not ok shirt fitting
also looking ugly. Shoulder Basically 2 part Left
and Right. On the sewing time, shoulder parts
should join before Collar attaches by 4 threads
Overclock
• A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms
part of a garment, usually fitting around the
neck and shoulders, to provide support for
looser parts of the garment, body of a shirt.
Sleeve and Cuff
• Short sleeves, varying from cap sleeves (covering
only the shoulder and not extending below the armpit)
to half sleeves (elbow length), with some having
quarter-length sleeves (reaching to a point that covers
half of the biceps and triceps area)
• Three-quarter-length sleeves (reaching to a point
between the elbow and the wrist)
• Long sleeves (reaching a point to the wrist to a little
beyond wrist)
• Sleeve below have one separate part is call Cuff part.
Various shape of the cuff part is available. 1.
Notched, Squared, Rounded, pointed, One-piece Cuff,
two pieces cuff.
• Without cuff shirt sleeve should be made by self-
fabric Hem by Fold Stitch.
Side Seam and
Bottom Hem
• Side seam means Back and front part
attaching position. Both sides need to attach
By Overlock Machine inside seam area.
• Bottom hem means below of shirt hem. The
Bottom edge of a piece of shirt cloth that has
been turned under and sewn by Sewing
Machine.
• There are so many design bottom hem is
available. Basically, 2 types of bottom hem are
popular for basic man’s shirt one is Classic
(Curve) Cut Hem and another is Straight Cut
hem.
Button-Hole and Button Attach
• Buttonhole usually use for the center from placket Button close. Different types
of buttonhole design are available with different measurement.
• The basic shirt has 7 or 8 Buttonhole. One buttonhole must be needed on Collar
Corner Edge position.
• Some special Button attaches machine name also mention below for your
reference.
• Semi Auto Button attach machine
• Auto Button attach machine
• Snap Button attach machine (Manual)
• Auto Snap Button attach machine.
Types of Placket
1. Box Placket
• It is the most common style of shirt placket
found on dress shirts.
• A classic placket front is an inch or two of
fabric, either folded over or attached as a
separate piece.
• The soft front placket is very similar in style
to the classic fused front placket, but with a
soft, unfused construction. It is ideal for
casual shirts.
2. Regular Front Shirt Placket

• It provides a cleaner and plainer look.

Many think of it as a very European look as
compared to the Classic shirt placket.
• It is versatile enough to be used on both
business and casual shirts.
3. Concealed Placket

• It has a flap of material on the front to conceal

the buttons underneath. It is also known as the
fly front shirt placket.
• It can be worn to formal events that require a
tuxedo, as a covered front tends to draw
attention away from the dress shirt to the bow
tie.
• Commonly known as the Fly Front, the
Concealed Placket is a more formal style placket
with an extra piece that covers up the buttons on
the front of the shirt.
 Types of Pockets

• Applied pockets : As the name indicates, these type of pockets are

sewn on to the garment usually with top stitching eg : patch
pockets, pleated patch pocket with flap, Bellows pocket
Types of Collar
• One piece collar
• Two piece collar
• Sports open collar
• Cutaway Collar- Suitable for formal occasions, a cutaway collar (also
known as spread collar, based on the distance between the points)
• Button Down Collar
• Wing Collar- The quintessential black tie collar, the wing tips are
also known as Tuxedo Collars as they are specifically designed to
suit a bow tie.
• Band Collar- Known as collarless, Mandarin, Mao, Chinese etc.
• Club collar
Types of Cuffs

• Straight Cuff- Our standard dress shirt cuff.

The Straight cuff is a classic. This cuff is
fused to maintain a crisp appearance.
• French Cuff- It is a completely square cuff
shape and requires cuff-links to be worn.
• Curved Cuff- A similar version of our
standard one button barrel cuff. The curved
cuff contributes to a more proportionally
balanced look for men with longer arms.
 Types of Fit in Shirts

• Slim Fit- A modern fit, the chest and sleeves are

trimmed slimmer to the body.
• Box Fit- A generous cut, a box fit shirt is fuller at
the chest and the sleeve.
• Classic Fit- The standard cut for most Indian
body types, the classic style has a relaxed fit at
the chest and the sleeves.
• Ultra Slim Fit- The ultra slim or as most people
call it the skinny fit shirts are cut closer to the
body with a higher armhole.
Types of Hem or
Bottom
• U Hem- U hems are ideal for tucking in and
can transition easily from working hours to
the weekend.
• Straight Hem- Straight hems are
traditionally less versatile and are best
regarded as casual wear.
• Hem Gazette- A hem gazette is more of a
style element for shirts than a reflection of
its formality or casual appeal.
Machines Required – For Sewing
• Single Needle Lock Stitch (Plain, with/ without UBT): Collar and Cuff making, Pocket
hemming and pocket attach, Yoke attach, Shoulder attach, Sleeve placket make, Sleeve
attach, bottom hem, Main label attach, top stitches etc.
• Overlock Machine
• Single Needle Lock Stitch (Edge cutter): Collar run stitch and Collar attach to collar
band
• Double Needle Lock Stitch: Collar and Cuff Top Stitch and Armhole Top Stitch
• Multi Needle Chain Stitch: Front placket make and attach
• Feed off the Arm (optional): Side seam and under arm
• Button Stitching Machine: Attaching button to front placket and cuff
• Button Holing Machine: Making buttonholes.
Machines Required – Non sewing M/c
• Fusing machine for collar and cuff
• Iron for folding and pressing front pocket and sleeve plackets.
• Collar and cuff turning machine: For collar and cuff turn and iron
 • Ralph Lauren
• Tommy Hilfiger
• H&M
• Zara
• Hollister
• Levi’s
• Calvin Klein
• Pull & Bear
• GAP
• Oxford Company

International Brands
 The Oxford
Company- Size
Chart
Domestic Brands
• Arrow
• Louie Phillipe
• Raymonds
• Parx
• Park Avenue
• Van Huesen
• Blackberry
• Peter England
Van Huesen – Size Chart
• Classic Relaxed Fit Shirt • Tailored Fit Shirt
 • https://www.oxfordcompany.gr/world/en/
content/100-all-about-shirt
• https://blog.tailorman.com/shirt-anatomy/
References • https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/
07/different-components-of-basic-shirt.ht
ml
• https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shirt
• https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/201
3/03/types-of-machines-used-in-shirt-maki
ng.html#:~:text=Sewing%20Machines,label
%20attach%2C%20top%20stitches%20etc.
&text=Button%20Holing%20Machine%3A
%20Making%20buttonholes.