Scribd
Upload
31 views29 pages

1.introduction 1-1

coloration

Uploaded by

Hayelom Girmay
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
31 views29 pages

1.introduction 1-1

coloration

Uploaded by

Hayelom Girmay
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 29

AKSUM UNIVERSITY

Aksum Institute of Technology

Faculty of Textile and Fashion Technology

Textile Engineering Department

INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE COLORATION


Prepared by: Destalem M. 1
COLORATION DEFINED

Textile coloration refers to the process of imparting


color to textile materials.
The whole substrate gets the
DYEING color by immersing in to a
solution of the color.

Only certain area of the

PRINTING substrate gets colored based on


design requirement .
2
DYES/PIGMENTS

• Coloring matters are required to provide the desired


color to textile substrates
• These substances are known as dyestuffs and pigments
• In general dyes/pigments are organic molecules

A dye is soluble in the application media and is


substantive to the textile substrate.

A pigment is insoluble & is not substantive to the


textile substrate [binding by adhesive agent, binder].
3
---- or

 A dye is a colored organic compound that has


affinity for the substrate to which it is being
applied and is soluble in the medium of application at
the time of application

 A pigment is a colored organic or inorganic


compound that has no affinity for the
substrate to which it is being applied and is
insoluble in the medium of application.
4
SALIENT FEATURES OF DYES
 Colored compounds which are absorbed by the fiber from a solution
or suspension where they are subsequently fixed .
CONJUGATION

CHROMOPHORE AUXOCHROME

Substantivity
AFFINITY

5
---CONTINUED

Affects properties of
 Affinity
 Substantively
 Solubility
 Tone of color
6
----CONTINUED
…Continued… E.g.

7
HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF DYES
Dye development stages Driving forces

Natural dyes -extracted from plant and


Poor substantivity & poor fastness
animal sources, 3000 BC

Use of mordant with natural dyes Long and difficult process


Indigo [Water insoluble pigment] Good fastness but still long process

First synthetic dye [Mauveine] Affinity for few fibers only & poor light fastness
Acid type azo dyes Acid dyeing of wool and silk
Direct substantive dyes
Poor wet/wash fastness
1884 -Congo Red –first synthetic direct
dye

Synthetic indigo vat dye Process difficulty

Fiber reactive dyes Limited substantivity [Hydrophobic fibers]


Disperse dyes For hydrophobic fibers [method of application]

8
CLASSICATION OF DYES
 Scientific classification based on chemical structure
Example: Anthraquinone dyes, Azo dyes etc.

 Technical classification based on dyeing properties

Example: Direct dyes, Acid dyes, Disperse dyes etc.

 Commercial classification based on manufacturers’ aspects


[Brand names based on fastness, method of dyeing and so on]

Example: Indanthrene, Remazol, Procion, etc

9
CLASSIFICATION BASED ON DYEING PROPERTIES

Direct Dyes Basic Dyes

Reactive Dyes Disperse Dyes

Vat Dyes Mordant Dyes

Azoic Dyes Metal Complex Dyes


Other Dyes *
Acid Dyes [Sulphur, Chrome Etc]

10
Main Dye Classes and Their Suitability for Different Fibers

11
----Continued

12
DYE SELECTION

• Type of fiber present


• Form of textile material & degree of levelness
• Fastness properties required
• Dyeing method used
Cost & Environment
• Availability of machinery
• Customer color requirement
13
COLOR & DYES

Interaction of matter with light

 Light is a form of energy propagated at high speed in the form


of electromagnetic waves.

 Limited range of the electromagnetic wave detected by human eye

VISIBLE RANGE [400 –


700nm]

 Response of light: matter interaction

ABSORPTION REFLECTION
14
 Color is produced due to selective absorption of the
visible light. The reflected portion of the visible light
corresponds to the color of the object.

ALL REFLECTED WHITE

ALL ABSORBED BLACK

15
Dye

16
Colors of typical spectral bands and perceived
colors after absorption by a material viewed in
white light
Wavelength (nm) Absorbed Reflected
Light Light
400 - 440 Violet Greenish-yellow

440 - 480 Blue Yellow


480 - 510 Blue-green Orange

510 - 540 Green Red

540 - 570 Yellowish-green Magenta

570 - 580 Yellow Blue

580 - 610 Orange Greenish-blue

610 - 700 Red Blue-green


17
SALIENT FEATURES OF DYEING PROCESS
The stages in dyeing process are:
 Preparation of dye solution [Dye and auxiliary
chemicals]
 Application of the dye DYEING METHODS
 Fixation of the dye
 Aftertreatment
N
BATCH O US O
NTI N I -C
CO EM
N S
TIO
S
HAU IMPREGNATION
EX 18
Continuous/Semi-Continuous DYEING

 Padding and squeezing


 Drying
 Fixation [Steam or hot air ] DER
PAD
 Rinsing

 Padding and squeezing


 Fixation (Batching)
 Rinsing
19
20
BATCH DYEING
 Discontinuous system of dyeing
 The dyebath is allowed to exhaust by providing the necessary
condition
 Dye fixation takes place in the dyebath: using….
Circulating Liquor In A Stationary Material

Material Movement In A Stationary Liquor

Circulation Of Both Liquor And Material

21
AFTER TREATMENT

• Washing in detergent at or near the boil [Soaping]


• Treatment with chemicals to improve fastness
• Application of simple finishing chemicals

22
DYEABILITY FACTORS

FIBER CHRACTERISTICS Crystallinity &


Hydrophilicity

DYE CHARCTERISTICS Structure &


Diffuseability

DYEING CONDIIONS Time, Temperature, pH


and MLR

DYEBATH ADDITIONS Salts & Other Auxilaries

LIQUOR RATIO Type of Machine

23
PROCESS TERMINOLOGIES

EXHAUSION AND FIXATION

 Exhaustion refers to the amount of dye transferred from


dye-bath to the substrate in the dyeing process.

E % =(Co – Cs)/Co * 100


Co---Intial concentration dyes
Cs---dye concentration remain in solution

 Dye fixation means the reaction between the dye and fiber
molecules. 24
DEPTH OF SHADE

Paleness or Darkness of a given


shade

COLOUR YIELD

Shade depth per a given amount of


dye
25
DYE MIGRATION

Tendency of dye transfer from heavily


dyed region

LEVELLING

Uniformity of shade throughout the


substrate
26
FASTNESS

Resistance to color change or color


removal

COMPATIBILITY
Similar
SERF profile
Dyes having same or similar rates Substantivity,
Exhaustion, Reactivity
of dyeing and Fixation

Ratio of weight of material to volume


LIQUOR RATIO
of liquor
27
Substantivity and Affinity
Substantivity
 The attraction between a substrate and a dye at the molecular
level to the textile substrate is known as “substantivity”. The
higher the substantivity the greater the attraction of the dye for
the textile substrate.

Affinity
 The quantitative expression of substantivity. It is the difference
between the chemical potential of the dye in the standard state in
the fiber and corresponding chemical potential in the dyebath.
Affinity is usually expressed in terms of calories (joules) per mole.28
E N D

29

You might also like