Unlocking

the Secret
of Your
Soils
COMPOSTIN
G
 It is a method of solid waste
management whereby the
biodegradable organic
components of the solid
waste is biologically
decomposed under
controlled conditions to a
state in which it can be
handled, stored, and/or
applied to land without
adversely affecting the
environment (Golueke,
1977).
 It is a
process by
which
organic
wastes are
converted
into organic
fertilizers by
means of
biological
activity under
controlled
conditions.
PURPOSE OF COMPOSTING

Produce suitable organic material (well-

decomposed) suitable for land
application, potting media, etc.

Produce an organic fertilizer as source of

nutrients for sustainable soil
environment.
PRINCIPLES OF COMPOSTING

Reduce the offensive odor of the

biodegradable materials.

Reduce the difficulty of handling.

Inactivate pathogenic organisms,

parasites and weed seeds.
PRINCIPLES OF COMPOSTING

Produce a stable end-product (HUMUS).

Speed up conversion and improve the final

product through the use of certain
additives.
Minerals such as earth, lime and other mineral materials.
Organic agents like herb extracts

Produce a suitable organic material (well-

decomposed) suitable for land application,
potting media, etc.

Produce an organic fertilizer as source of

nutrients for sustainable soil environment.
 What do you need to make
compost?
 Decomposers – Your composting work crew.
These are the microbes (mainly bacteria and
fungi) that do all the work for you.
 Food for the decomposers The organic
materials to be composted
 The right amount of air, water, and warmth
to keep the work crew happy
 What is the best food for your
decomposers?
All organic materials will compost, but not all should be added
to a backyard compost pile
Organic wastes that should be composted include:

Garden
trimmings
Leaves

Grass
clippings Also
• Used potting soil
• Manure
Kitchen scraps • Sawdust
 Materials to avoid…
Avoid organic materials that could cause
problems during or after composting
 Oil, fat, grease, meat, fish or dairy products,
unwashed egg shells (tend to attract pests,
vermin)
 Hard to kill weeds (bindweed, quackgrass)
and weeds that have gone to seed (could
infest garden area when compost is used).
 Materials to avoid…

Cat or dog waste

(attracts pests, could spread disease)

Diseased or insect ridden plants

(could infect or attack garden plants when
compost is used)
Is shredding necessary?

Have greater surface

area per unit volume
Allows microbes to get
at more of the food

Chipping or shredding
coarse materials (twigs,
stems) will speed up the
rate at which they
decompose
Smaller particles decompose faster
 Is shredding necessary?

but…
Smaller particles will also
decrease airflow into the
pile
 May lead to anaerobic
conditions
 Pile may need to be
turned more often
 More about food for your
decomposers
Your compost workers will
thrive if you give them a
balanced diet.
 Composting will be most
rapid if the decomposers are
fed a mix of carbon rich and
nitrogen rich materials.
 Carbon rich organic wastes
are known as “browns”
 Nitrogen rich organic wastes
are known as “greens”
High carbon materials such as
Leaves (30-80:1)
Straw (40-100:1)
Paper (150-200:1)
Sawdust (100-500:1)
Animal bedding mixed
with manure (30-80:1)
 High nitrogen materials such as
Vegetable scraps (12-20:1)
Coffee grounds (20:1)
Grass clippings (12-25:1)
Manure
– Cow (20:1)
– Horse (25:1)
– Poultry (10:1), with litter (13-
18:1)
– Hog (5-7:1)
 Browns Greens
 Decay very slowly  Decay rapidly
 Coarse browns can  Poor aeration – may
keep pile aerated have foul odors if
 Tend to accumulate composted alone
in the fall  Tend to accumulate
 Tie up nitrogen in in spring and
summer
soil if not fully
composted  Supply nitrogen for
 May need to composting
stockpile until can  Best composting if
mix with greens mixed with browns
 Aerobic composting

• Composting with
decomposers that
need air (oxygen)
• The fastest way to
make high quality
compost
• Produces no foul
odors
• Aerobic
decomposers
produce heat
 Aerobic composting and
temperature

• Active composting occurs in the temperature range of

55oF to 155oF
55 140
• Pile temperature may increase
above 140oF but this is too hot 155
for most bacteria and
decomposition will slow until
temperature decreases again.

• A thermometer is a nice tool but is not essential for

good composting
 Does my compost pile have
to get hot?
 Good compost can be made in a pile that never
gets hot, but…
 Decay will be slower and it will take longer to
make compost
 Not enough air, to little or too much water, or
too many browns in the mix could all keep a
pile from heating.
 High pile temperature provides the benefits of
 The most rapid composting
 Killing pathogenic (disease causing) organisms
 Killing weed seeds
 Getting air to your
decomposers

Hot air
Warm air low
O2
rising through
the pile draws
fresh air in
from bottom O2 O2
and sides
Wind can
stimulate cool
aeration O2
air
rich
 Pile aeration
Depends upon adequate
porosity
• Porosity is the air filled space between particles
• “Browns” help to maintain good porosity in the pile
• A compacted pile has lost porosity, can be increased by
turning
Aeration can be
increased by
inserting sticks,
cornstalks, or
perforated pipes
into or under
the pile
 Water
•Rapid decomposition requires optimum water content
• If too dry, bacterial activity will slow or cease
• If too wet, loss of air in the pile will lead to anaerobic
conditions
• Pile water content should
be at 40-60%
• As wet as a squeezed out
sponge
• If too dry, add water as you
turn the pile
• If too wet, add browns
and/or turn the pile
 Where should I put my
compost pile?
 Shaded area will
help prevent drying
out in summer
 Avoid areas that will
interfere with lawn
and garden
activities
 Adequate work area
around the pile
 Area for storage
 Water available
 Considerations for locating
the compost pile
 Good drainage
 Away from any wells
 Near where finished
compost will be used
 Be a good neighbor
 Make your
composting area
attractive, or
 Keep it out of your
neighbors’ view
PROCEDURE/METHODOLOG
 Making compost the fast way
(Instructions for active composters)

 Turn the pile every 5 to 7 days,

 move outer material to the pile center
 add water if needed
 During the first few weeks temp
should reach 60oC
 After about 4 weeks less heat will be
produced and compost will maintain
lower temp (37oC)
 Making compost the fast way
(Instructions for active
composters)
 After about 4 more weeks the pile will
no longer heat after turning and volume
will be about one third of original.
 Allow the pile to cure (stand without
turning) for 4 more weeks before using
the compost
 When is compost finished?

Compost is mature when

 The color is dark brown
 It is crumbly, loose,
and humus-like
 It has an earthy smell
 It contains no readily
recognizable feedstock
 The pile has shrunk to
about 1/3 of its original volume
COMPOSTING
METHODS
 Bin/pile construction
 Ideal size is approximately a 3 foot cube
 Promotes sufficient aeration
 Retains sufficient heat to maintain
warm temps
 Piles larger than 5 x 5 x 5 feet are
difficult to turn and tend to become
anaerobic in the center
Manufactured bins
The Earth Machine Bin
BSU Methodology
1.Collect all substrates and other materials
for composting.

Plate # 2. Wild sunflower, grasses, ipil-ipil leaves, and

ornamantal peanut plant used in compost making.
2. Chop or shred substrates. Substrates like rice
straw,corn bagasse/stalks, sugarcane bagasse,
hagonoy, and grasses should be chopped.

Plate # 3. Shredding grasses using KOICA acquired

shredder (16 HP).
3. Moisten the substrate when it is dry. Soak plant
substrates for 15-30 minutes in a big water
container. For substrate in bulk quantity, sprinkle
with water.

Plate # 4. Sprinkler method of moistening the substrate

before covering with plastic cover.
4. Carbonaceous substrates are mixed
with nitrogenous ones in 6:1 ratio, but not
lower than 2:1 ratio. This is dry basis.

Some possible combinations are:

a. 3 parts rice straw : 1 part ipil-ipil
b. 4 parts rice straw : 1 part chicken dung
c. 4 parts grasses : 1 part hagonoy
d. 2 parts sawdust:1 part grass:1 part
manure
5. The substrate should be piled loosely in a
compost pen. Do not compact the pile.

Plate # 5. Loosely piled compost.

6. If compost activator is added,
broadcast on the moistened
substrate during piling. The amount of
activator is usually:

1 kg activator : 100 kg substrate

7. The pile should be completely covered at all
sides.
* Pile usually heats up 24 to 48 hours
* High T° (50 °C or above is usually maintained
for about 10-15 days

Plate # 6. Compost pile covered with plastic to conserve

heat and moisture.
8. Turn the pile when the temperature drops to 30 °C.

Plate # 7. Proper mixing of the compost pile.

9. Decomposition is going well if the
volume of the pile is reduced to 1/3
one week after. After 2 weeks, this is
reduced to one-half.
10. The compost is already ready if the
following characteristics are observed:

a. Temperature of the pile drops to

30 to 35°C or approximately that
of the air temperature.

b. The individual substrates are no

longer recognizable.

c. The ripe compost does not have

foul odor.
11. The ripe compost can be used immediately.

Plate # 8. Application of mature compost 10 – 20 kg/m2.

12. If the ripe compost is to be stored, sundry for a
day. This can be stored for at least 6 months
without appreciable change in the nutrient
contents The ideal moisture is 30-40 %. Less than
this will result to nitrogen loss due to
continuous microbial action.

Plate # 9. Sundrying the formulated compost for a day

before storing.
13. The ripe compost can be stored for at least 6 months
without appreciable change in the nutrient
contents, especially if the compost has very low
moisture content (Moisture < 30-40 %, lost of N
is enhanced due to continuous microbial action).
* plastic bag (10 kg capacity)

Plate # 10. Packing ripe compost in 10-kg capacity

plastic bag for storage.
Crop Technology Station
Composting Procedure
Step 1 : Gather and prepare composting Materials.
Step 2 : Chop the Grasses/ weeds into small pieces about 3-
4 inches length.
Step 3 : Pile the compost materials following the mixture of 5
bags Trichoderma koningii to 1 sack chicken
dung/animal manure and 10 sacks chopped or
shredded grasses.
Step 4 : Sprinkle water until enough moisture is attained and
cover properly with plastic sheet or sack.
Step 5 : Mix the composted material at least every 5 days
and cover with plastic sheet.
Step 6 : Harvest the compost pile after the compost
materials are no longer recognizable (about 1
month in warmer areas and more at cooler areas)
Step 7 : Apply the Compost at a rate of at least 1 kg or more
per square meter.
Caliking, Atok
Sovani Farm, Kapangan
CTS, Puguis
Kapangan
Tinongdan, Itogon
Bulala
Baguio City
CTS- Puguis, La Trinidad
 Rotary Composter

CTS- Puguis, La Trinidad

Rotary Composter
Rotary Composter
Rotary Composter
OTHER COMPOSTING
TECHNIQUES
BACOLOD
 SUMMARY OF THE
VERMICOMPOSTING (PRODUCTION
PROCESS)

Gathering/Mixing Shredding
of Raw Pre-
Mat. 75% Carbon
Source
Composting
& 26 Nitrogen Harvesting/
Source (RFU)
Air drying
(3:1 – C:N – Ratio)
Packagin Stocking
g
CTS, Wangal
Safe Vegetable
from Rich Soil

SAVERS Technology

Mokusaku & Compost

 What is “SAVERS”
To use a lot of chemicals makes disease
soil.
Disease soil makes diseases product.

It’s most important to make healthy

soil using organic matter.
In ideal, the best way is purely organic farming.
• It’s too difficult to manage for farmer’s life
To produce high quality vegetable
by soil improvement using organic matter,
and effective materials for soil and
vegetable quality.
MOKUSAKU
 WHAT IS MOKUSAKU?

Condensation

Cooling down

Smoke
-CO2
-Water
Wood Vinegar=Mokusaku
-Organic-Substances -pH 2-3
- Organic compounds (10-20%)
Dry Distillation Over 200 chemical substances
(Acid, alcohol, phenol, neutral materials)
Organic-materials
(Wood, Coconuts shell, Bamboo, Grass, etc.)
 HOW TO COLLECT
MOKUSAKU
Exhaust pipe Cool smoke
by using
water

Smoke chamber

Wood, Bamboo, Coconut shells

Oven
Smoke
pipe
Mokusaku

Smoke/Gas generator Burning chamber

MOKUSAKU DEMO PLANT

Smoke chamber

Mokusaku

Burning chamber

Smoke/Gas generator
(Inside)
 Organic Substances
Contained in Wood Vinegar
Organic acids
(formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid,
etc.)
Phenol group
Carbonyl group
200 chemical
(formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, etc.)
Alcohol
substances are
(ethanol, methanol, etc.) contained
Neutral materials
(levoglucosan, acetol , maltol, etc)
Base (acidic substances)
(ammonia methylamine dimethylamine, etc.)
Compost
making

Mokusaku
Dried Weeds Chicken Dung
Mokusaku Fastens Composting

Carbonated
Mushroom Compost Rice Hull Compost
 Compost preparation
Repeat procedures 1 to 6 several
times

Until the heap is 1.5 – 2.0m

 Compost preparation
Mixing
When
Compost heat
goes up (65-
70℃), mix it.

・ Cool down
・ Provide oxygen
to compost

To activate
2 or 3 times (Until compost become black) Actinomycetes
 Composting
Applying to soil

Spreading
3t/10a=3kg/ ㎡
If it’s not
enough, apply
by in by.
 Benefits of compost
Promotes soil health
 Supplies organic
matter to soil
 Attracts earthworms
 Stimulates beneficial
soil microorganisms
 Increases soil water
holding capacity
 Increases soil
nutrient retention
 Benefits of compost
Promotes soil health
 Improves soil tilth and friability
 Improves soil drainage
 Loosens heavy clay soils
 Suppresses soil-borne plant
pathogens (diseases)
 Benefits of compost
Plant nutrients
Compost is not a fertilizer,
but does contain plant
nutrients
 Nitrogen and phosphorus
are mostly in organic
forms
 Released slowly to
plants
 Not readily leached
from the topsoil
 Compost contains many
trace nutrients that are
essential for plant growth
 Using finished compost
 Soil amendment
 Be sure that compost is mature, has an
earthy smell (no ammonia or rotten
smell), looks dark and crumbly with no
recognizable feedstock
 Compost improves soil health when
mixed in the top 4 to 6 inches (work in no
more than a 2” layer of compost)
 Will improve water and nutrient
retention of sandy soils
 Will loosen compacted clay soils and
make them more friable
 Using finished compost
 Surface mulch in the
garden/landscape
 Maximum 3” depth
 Start 3-4” from
trunk
 Extend out to
dripline
 Mulch provides
 Protection from
temp extremes
 Slows moisture loss
from soil
 Provides some slow
release nutrients
 Using finished compost
 Lawn topdressing
 Be sure compost is very mature to avoid harming
the lawn
 Use fine (screened) compost, ¼” depth raked
over lawn
 Best if lawn is cored before applying compost
 Retains moisture, supplies slow release nutrients,
prevents soil compaction
 Potting mix
 Compost must be very mature to avoid injury to
plants
 Use fine textured compost
 Mix no more than 1/3 compost by volume
One teaspoon of good garden soil to which
compost has been added contains
• 100 million bacteria
• 800 feet of fungal threads
Soils Save Our Life

Save Our Soils