1.

Waves

- Waves are formed as a result of wind blowing over the ocean. Key words and terms:
- When wave’s break on the coast, the water rushing towards the coastline is called the swash. The water moving back
towards the ocean is called the backwash. to deposit:
to put down material

- Waves are either destructive or constructive.

Constructive waves: Destructive waves:

­ These waves are gentle and they are far apart. ­ These waves are steep and they are close together.
­ They have a strong swash and a gentle backwash. ­ They have a weak swash and a strong backwash.
­ As a result, these waves deposit a large amount of ­ As a result, these waves
material onto the erode sand and pebbles
beach, from the beach,
‘constructing’ new ‘destroying’ it.
beach.
 1. Waves: Retrieval Practice

1 What causes waves to form?

2 Name the part of the wave that moves it towards the coastline.
4. Name the part of the wave that moves it back into the ocean.
6. Which type of wave has a stronger backwash?
7. What do destructive waves do to coastlines?
8. Which type of wave has a strong swash?
9. What do constructive waves do to the coastline?
10. Draw a diagram of a destructive wave with arrows to show the swash and backwash.
 1. Waves: Answers

1. Wind blowing across the ocean.

2. Swash
4. Backwash
6. Destructive wave
7. Erode it
8. Constructive waves
9. Deposit material creating a beach
10.
 2. Coastal erosion:

- Coasts and beaches change shape over time as a result of erosion. There are 4 main types of erosion. Key words and terms:

material:
Things that the waves
are carrying
Name Description
abrasion Material scrapes against the cliff, breaking it down. erosion:
When rocks and soil are
hydraulic The power of the water breaks down the cliff. broken away and then
action break down further.

solution Acids in sea water dissolve certain types of rock, such as limestone or chalk.

attrition Material in the waves smashes together becoming smaller and rounder.

The eroded material is eventually put down. This is called deposition.

 2. Coastal erosion: Retrieval Practice

1. Complete the diagram by adding labels for each type of erosion

2. Define abrasion. 2
3. Define attrition. 1 3
4. Define solution.
5. Define hydraulic action. 4
6. Define deposition.
 2. Coastal erosion: Answers

1. 1- abrasion, 2- hydraulic action, 3- solution, 4- attrition

2. Material scrapes against the cliff, breaking it down. 2
3. Material in the waves smashes together becoming smaller and rounder. 1 3
4. Acids in sea water dissolve certain types of rock, such as limestone or chalk.
5. The power of the water breaks down the cliff. 4
6. When eroded material is put down.
 3. Landforms of erosion

Formation of headlands and bays Formation of a wave cut platform Key words and terms:
A headland is an area of rock A wave-cut platform is a flat rocky area at the base of a
which sticks out from the coast. cliff. It is formed by erosion of a cliff. to erode:
A bay is an area of rock that has When rocks and soil
retreated inland. They are break away.
formed by erosion.
to retreat:
To move backways
1. Destructive waves erode the
coastline by hydraulic action
and abrasion. 1. The base of the cliff is
eroded. Overtime, this forms a
wave cut notch.

2. Eventually the cliff becomes

2. The soft rock erodes faster unsupported and collapses.
and retreats inland. Overtime,
this forms bays.

3. The process repeats and the

cliff retreats leaving behind a
wave cut platform.
3. The hard rock erodes more
slowly, so it is left behind.
Overtime, this forms
headlands.
 Key words and terms:
Formation of caves, arches and stacks
to erode:
when rocks and soil
break away.

to collapse:
to fall down
1. Waves erode weaknesses in
the headland. Overtime, this
forms a cave.

2. The cave continues to be

eroded. Overtime, this forms an
arch.

3. The top of the arch is

weakened and collapses.
Overtime, this forms a stack.
 3. Landforms of erosion: Retrieval Practice

1. Explain the formation of headlands and bays in three steps.

2. Draw a diagram of a headland and a bay.
3. What is a headland?
4. What is a bay?
5. What process forms headlands and bays?
6. Explain the formation of wave cut platforms in three steps.
7. What is a wave cut platform?
8. Draw a diagram of a cliff, wave cut notch and a wave cut platform.
9. Explain the formation of a stack in three steps.
10. Draw 3 diagrams to show the formation of a stack.
 3. Landforms of erosion: Answers

1. A. Destructive waves erode the coastline by hydraulic action and abrasion. B The soft rock erodes faster and retreats inland. Overtime, this forms
bays. C 3. The hard rock erodes more slowly, so it is left behind. Overtime, this forms headlands.
2.

bay bay

headland headland
3. A headland is an area of rock which sticks out from the coast.
4. A bay is an area of rock that has retreated inland.
5. erosion
6. A. The base of the cliff is eroded. Overtime, this forms a wave cut notch. B. 2. Eventually the cliff becomes unsupported and collapses. C. The process
repeats and the cliff retreats leaving behind a wave cut platform.
7. A wave-cut platform is a flat rocky area at the base of a cliff.
8.

9. A. Waves erode weaknesses in the headland. Overtime, this forms a cave. B. The cave continues to be eroded. Overtime, this forms an arch. C.. The
top of the arch is weakened and collapses. Overtime, this forms a stack.
10.
 4. Depositional Landforms

Key words and terms:

Longshore drift is the process by which material is moved along a Longshore drift:
beach. The process by which
material is moved along
1. The prevailing wind direction causes the swash to hit the beach a beach.
at an angle. This moves material onto the beach at an angle.
2. The backwash moves the material off the beach. Swash:
3. The process repeats and material is moved along the beach. The water that rushes
up onto a beach.

Backwash:
The water that flows
back towards the sea in
a wave.

Prevailing wind:
The direction from
which most of an area’s
wind comes from.
Longshore drift is the process by which
material is moved along a beach. Salt marsh:
An area near the coasts
1. Longshore drift occurs along a beach. which is often flooded
2. The coastline changes direction. But the by saltwater.
longshore drift continues into the sea.
Material builds up. This forms a spit.
3. Behind the spit is sheltered. So, material is
deposited behind the spit. This forms a salt
marsh.
 4. Deposition landforms: Retrieval Practice

1. What is longshore drift?

2. Draw a diagram of longshore drift.
3. Explaining longshore drift in 3 steps.
4. Explain the formation of a spit in 3 steps.
5. Draw a diagram of a spit.
6. What is the prevailing wind?
7. What is a salt marsh?
 4. Deposition landforms: Answers

1. The process by which material is moved along a beach.

2.

3. 1. The prevailing wind direction causes the swash to hit the beach at an angle. This moves material onto the beach at an angle.
2. The backwash moves the material off the beach.
3. The process repeats and material is moved along the beach.

4. 1. Longshore drift occurs along a beach.

2. The coastline changes direction. But the longshore drift continues into the sea. Material builds up. This forms a spit.
3. Behind the spit is sheltered. So, material is deposited behind the spit. This forms a salt marsh.
6.

7. The direction from which most of an area’s wind comes from.

8. An area near the coasts which is often flooded by saltwater.
 5. Protecting the coastline from erosion

Hard Engineering: man-made structures are used to slow erosion Inland: away from the
coastline
Method: Description: Disadvantages:

Sea walls A wall made of concrete that reflects the They are expensive.
waves back out to sea.

Groynes Wooden or stone fences that prevent They stop material moving along the
longshore drift. coastline, so further down the coast the
This creates a wider beach which slows beaches become smaller and erosion
down the waves. increases.

Soft Engineering: natural processes are used to slow erosion

Method: Description: Disadvantages:

Beach nourishment Sand is added to a beach to slow the The sand has to be taken from other sites,
waves. often destroyed habitats.

Sand has to be replaced regularly.

Managed retreat The coastline is allowed to erode and Some people lose land to flooding.
businesses and houses are moved inland.
 5. Protecting the coastline from erosion: Retrieval Practice

1. What is hard engineering?

2. Give 2 different types of hard engineering which can be used to manage coastlines.
3. Which type of hard engineering can be used to prevent longshore drift?
4. Name 1 method of hard engineering which reflect waves protecting the coastline behind them.
6. Give one disadvantages of using groynes to reduce longshore drift along a stretch of coastline.

1. What is soft engineering?

2. Give 2 examples of soft engineering methods which can be used to manage coastlines.
3. Give 1 method of soft engineering which build up beaches to protect the coastline behind them.
4. Give 1 method of soft engineering which allow an area to flood to protect other areas.
5. Why might some people argue that managed retreat is cheap?
9. Why do some people disagree with managed retreat?
10. Why can beach nourishment cause damage to plants and animals?
 5. Protecting the coastline from erosion: ANSWERS

1. Using man made structures to control coastal processes like erosion and longshore drift
2. Sea wall, groynes,
3. Groynes
4. Sea wall,
5. Groynes stop material moving along the coastline, so further down the coast the beaches become smaller and erosion increases.

1. Working with natural processes to reduce the impact of erosion

2. beach nourishment, managed retreat
3. beach nourishment
4. managed retreat
5. do not have to pay for defences
9. homes and businesses are not protected
10. Sand is taken from other beaches