Business models in fashion

Theory & practice




August 28th 2012 – Walter van Andel
walter.vanandel@ams.ac.be
Agenda

1. Innovation
2. Business models - theory
         What are business models?
         Business model creation
3. Business models - practice
         Application of a business model
4. Q&A
Innovation
Innovation

Innovation is the process and outcome of creating something
new, which is also of value

Schumpeter (1934) argued that innovation comes about
through new combinations made by an entrepreneur
Innovation

 A new product
 A new process
 Opening of new market
 New sources of supply

 A new business model
good ideas are widely
distributed, nobody has a
 monopoly on innovation
     Prof. Henry Chesbrough, Berkeley
Business
Models
What are they?
Business models
Examples

  EasyJet / SouthWest Airlines no frills: low cost, direct flights without
  (free) extras
  Gillette razor and blades: low (no) margin on razor; high margin on
  blades
  Dell built-to-order: choose the components of your pc before
  production starts
  Farmville / Spotify “freemium”: Basic service is free, added services
  are offered for premium pricing

 There is more to it than just a catchy name…
Business models

 Every organization has a business model
 Many definitions / many approaches

 Interpretation:
              The core logic by which a firm
           creates, delivers and captures value

 Role: to unlock the value potential embedded in (new)
 technologies/products/innovations and converting it into market
 outcomes
A business model is a logical story explaining
who your customers are, what they value, and
     how you will make economic returns in
                   providing them that value


   Prof. Joan Magretta, Harvard Business School
Value?

 What values do we pursue as a company?

 What value/benefit do we create, and for whom?

 How do we create this value?

 How do we transform value into money?
Business models create value

The business model creates value not technology or a product itself


product/technology               X                  value/utility

                                               creates

       enables
                                 business model

                           defines

 business strategy
Business model components

 Value creation
     Why does your business exist?
     Company’s unique value proposition
 Value delivery
     How can you deliver the value to the customer
 Value capture
     Whether & how can you make money now and in future

internal processes                                        + profit formula
                                  + value chain
 and organization

 organization                        network                consumer
Business model innovation

 Value creation innovation
 we offer a better value proposition for an existing or new problem

 Value delivery innovation
 we reconfigure the value chain so that a better value proposition and
 value delivery emerges

 Value capture innovation
 we change the revenue mix and thereby create a better value
 proposition
Side note…
Business plans, business strategy & business models

  Often used interchangeable
      However: different concepts


  Business plan: statement of a set of business goals + how to attain
  them
  Business strategy: combined choices of how to compete
  Business model: operationalization of the business strategy choice
Value proposition

Value Proposition
   Identify the customer ‘pain’ or problem
   Indicate how the product addresses that problem
   Quantify the ‘value’ of the product from the customer’s perspective


Understanding ‘value’ is KEY!
   Generally wholly unrelated to your cost base
   What is the value of an MacBook?


 What is the value of a (luxury) clothing item?
Well, I know we are in a commodity
   market where the price is key, but I
believe we can sell the good for 10x as
                        much as before
Value proposition

Fashion and quality at the best price




Instant fashion




Other fashion brands?
Business model creation

Two important concepts:

 Business models consist of a set of Choices and Consequences

 Business models are a variation of the Value Chain
Business model creation
Choices & consequences - Casadesus-Masanell & Ricart (2010)

What ‘parts’ are business models made of?


   The concrete choices made by management about how the
   organization must operate, and
   The consequences of these choices
Business model creation
Choices & consequences

          Choices                           Consequences
           Policies                              Flexible
            Assets                                Rigid
         Governance


                         Business model

A business model is a reflection of the firm’s realized choices
Business model creation
Value chain

  Every business model is a
  variation on a company’s
  value chain (Magretta, 2002)

  The business model
  encompasses the pattern of
  the firm’s economic
  exchanges with external
  parties (Zott & Amit, 2008)
Business model creation
Value chain

  Value creation is a networked process

  Business models span across firm boundaries

  It involves a complex, interconnected set of exchange relationships and
  activities among multiple players
Business model creation
Value chain

  Where does your business sit in the value chain?
     Do you need support/partnership/technology?
     Can you go direct-to-customer?

  If you are reliant on others, how will you capture your part of the value
  created?
       And build lasting relations?
Business model creation
Value delivery and capture: customers

  Identify the specific group of customers (aka ‘market segment’) you
  will target

  Understand that different market segments have different needs,
  preferences and purchasing criteria
      Understand the value that they desire
          Create an optimal delivery system of that value

  Quantify, quantify, quantify
Business model creation
Value capture

  How is revenue generated?
          One-off purchase?
          Subscriptions?
          ‘Freemium’ model?
          Advertising?
      How does that tie back to the value chain?

  What is your cost structure?
     How does that tie back to the value chain?
Business model creation
Discovery, learning, and adaptation

  Start with a provisional business model
      Validate; then revalidate and revise

 The “right” business model is rarely apparent early on…
 entrepreneurs/managers who are well positioned and can learn and
 adjust are more likely to succeed
Business models
Some conclusions

  To be a source of competitive advantage, a business model must be
  more than just a ‘logical’ way of doing business
  A model must be honed to meet particular customer needs and
  requires deep understanding of the customer/consumer and their
  values
  It must be constantly revalidated and adjusted

  Designing a business (model) is a creative act!
Case
Example
Fragile
Nathalie Vleeschouwer
Case example
Nathalie Vleeschouwer

  Fashion designer from Antwerp
  Female entrepreneur of the year 2011

  Main brand: Fragile
     Maternity fashion
Fragile delivers contemporary fashion
 that enables pregnant women to feel
      comfortable, free, and attractive
Fragile
Value creation

 Product:
  High fashion for pregnant women
  High quality fabrics specifically
      Chosen for sensitive skins
      Durable products
  Cut and shape adjusted for pregnant shape
      But also wearable afterwards
Fragile
Value creation

 Personal contact:
  High emphasis on personal contact
      With boutiques and suppliers/producers
      Establishes goodwill
      Establishes calm / steady relations
Fragile
Value delivery
  Maternity Boutiques
  Flagship stores
      Provide a unique experience
      Provide a complete offering of maternity products
Fragile
Value capture

   Standard sales format

But in addition:
   Durability leads to cast-offs
   Word of mouth

   Many request for non-maternity clothing
      Second line: Nathalie Vleeschouwer
Nathalie Vleeschouwer line

 Builds on good name designer
 Builds on style Fragile
 Builds on previous customer base

 Attracts regular and maternity boutiques
Nathalie Vleeschouwer
Some choices (and consequences)

  Clear initial choice for maternity high fashion
      Untapped market, possibility for personal contact with retail

  Choice for a complete offering maternity wear
     Supports and enables delivery of value proposition

  Choice for as much local production as possible
     Fast, convenient, goodwill
Nathalie Vleeschouwer – business model
Q&A
OPENING MINDS
    TO IMPACT
    THE WORLD

           Slides and references available on:

www.waltervanandel.com/fashionmanagement

Business models - fashion industry

  • 1.
    Business models infashion Theory & practice August 28th 2012 – Walter van Andel [email protected]
  • 2.
    Agenda 1. Innovation 2. Businessmodels - theory What are business models? Business model creation 3. Business models - practice Application of a business model 4. Q&A
  • 3.
  • 4.
    Innovation Innovation is theprocess and outcome of creating something new, which is also of value Schumpeter (1934) argued that innovation comes about through new combinations made by an entrepreneur
  • 5.
    Innovation A newproduct A new process Opening of new market New sources of supply A new business model
  • 6.
    good ideas arewidely distributed, nobody has a monopoly on innovation Prof. Henry Chesbrough, Berkeley
  • 7.
  • 8.
    Business models Examples EasyJet / SouthWest Airlines no frills: low cost, direct flights without (free) extras Gillette razor and blades: low (no) margin on razor; high margin on blades Dell built-to-order: choose the components of your pc before production starts Farmville / Spotify “freemium”: Basic service is free, added services are offered for premium pricing There is more to it than just a catchy name…
  • 9.
    Business models Everyorganization has a business model Many definitions / many approaches Interpretation: The core logic by which a firm creates, delivers and captures value Role: to unlock the value potential embedded in (new) technologies/products/innovations and converting it into market outcomes
  • 10.
    A business modelis a logical story explaining who your customers are, what they value, and how you will make economic returns in providing them that value Prof. Joan Magretta, Harvard Business School
  • 11.
    Value? What valuesdo we pursue as a company? What value/benefit do we create, and for whom? How do we create this value? How do we transform value into money?
  • 12.
    Business models createvalue The business model creates value not technology or a product itself product/technology X value/utility creates enables business model defines business strategy
  • 13.
    Business model components Value creation Why does your business exist? Company’s unique value proposition Value delivery How can you deliver the value to the customer Value capture Whether & how can you make money now and in future internal processes + profit formula + value chain and organization organization network consumer
  • 14.
    Business model innovation Value creation innovation we offer a better value proposition for an existing or new problem Value delivery innovation we reconfigure the value chain so that a better value proposition and value delivery emerges Value capture innovation we change the revenue mix and thereby create a better value proposition
  • 15.
    Side note… Business plans,business strategy & business models Often used interchangeable However: different concepts Business plan: statement of a set of business goals + how to attain them Business strategy: combined choices of how to compete Business model: operationalization of the business strategy choice
  • 16.
    Value proposition Value Proposition Identify the customer ‘pain’ or problem Indicate how the product addresses that problem Quantify the ‘value’ of the product from the customer’s perspective Understanding ‘value’ is KEY! Generally wholly unrelated to your cost base What is the value of an MacBook? What is the value of a (luxury) clothing item?
  • 17.
    Well, I knowwe are in a commodity market where the price is key, but I believe we can sell the good for 10x as much as before
  • 19.
    Value proposition Fashion andquality at the best price Instant fashion Other fashion brands?
  • 20.
    Business model creation Twoimportant concepts: Business models consist of a set of Choices and Consequences Business models are a variation of the Value Chain
  • 21.
    Business model creation Choices& consequences - Casadesus-Masanell & Ricart (2010) What ‘parts’ are business models made of? The concrete choices made by management about how the organization must operate, and The consequences of these choices
  • 22.
    Business model creation Choices& consequences Choices Consequences Policies Flexible Assets Rigid Governance Business model A business model is a reflection of the firm’s realized choices
  • 23.
    Business model creation Valuechain Every business model is a variation on a company’s value chain (Magretta, 2002) The business model encompasses the pattern of the firm’s economic exchanges with external parties (Zott & Amit, 2008)
  • 24.
    Business model creation Valuechain Value creation is a networked process Business models span across firm boundaries It involves a complex, interconnected set of exchange relationships and activities among multiple players
  • 25.
    Business model creation Valuechain Where does your business sit in the value chain? Do you need support/partnership/technology? Can you go direct-to-customer? If you are reliant on others, how will you capture your part of the value created? And build lasting relations?
  • 26.
    Business model creation Valuedelivery and capture: customers Identify the specific group of customers (aka ‘market segment’) you will target Understand that different market segments have different needs, preferences and purchasing criteria Understand the value that they desire Create an optimal delivery system of that value Quantify, quantify, quantify
  • 27.
    Business model creation Valuecapture How is revenue generated? One-off purchase? Subscriptions? ‘Freemium’ model? Advertising? How does that tie back to the value chain? What is your cost structure? How does that tie back to the value chain?
  • 28.
    Business model creation Discovery,learning, and adaptation Start with a provisional business model Validate; then revalidate and revise The “right” business model is rarely apparent early on… entrepreneurs/managers who are well positioned and can learn and adjust are more likely to succeed
  • 29.
    Business models Some conclusions To be a source of competitive advantage, a business model must be more than just a ‘logical’ way of doing business A model must be honed to meet particular customer needs and requires deep understanding of the customer/consumer and their values It must be constantly revalidated and adjusted Designing a business (model) is a creative act!
  • 30.
  • 31.
    Case example Nathalie Vleeschouwer Fashion designer from Antwerp Female entrepreneur of the year 2011 Main brand: Fragile Maternity fashion
  • 32.
    Fragile delivers contemporaryfashion that enables pregnant women to feel comfortable, free, and attractive
  • 33.
    Fragile Value creation Product: High fashion for pregnant women High quality fabrics specifically Chosen for sensitive skins Durable products Cut and shape adjusted for pregnant shape But also wearable afterwards
  • 34.
    Fragile Value creation Personalcontact: High emphasis on personal contact With boutiques and suppliers/producers Establishes goodwill Establishes calm / steady relations
  • 35.
    Fragile Value delivery Maternity Boutiques Flagship stores Provide a unique experience Provide a complete offering of maternity products
  • 36.
    Fragile Value capture Standard sales format But in addition: Durability leads to cast-offs Word of mouth Many request for non-maternity clothing Second line: Nathalie Vleeschouwer
  • 37.
    Nathalie Vleeschouwer line Builds on good name designer Builds on style Fragile Builds on previous customer base Attracts regular and maternity boutiques
  • 38.
    Nathalie Vleeschouwer Some choices(and consequences) Clear initial choice for maternity high fashion Untapped market, possibility for personal contact with retail Choice for a complete offering maternity wear Supports and enables delivery of value proposition Choice for as much local production as possible Fast, convenient, goodwill
  • 39.
  • 40.
  • 41.
    OPENING MINDS TO IMPACT THE WORLD Slides and references available on: www.waltervanandel.com/fashionmanagement